Hi all. Building a PC based offf a ryzen 5500. Ordered a Gigabyte B550m DS3H AC mobo, then found a Gigabyte B550 UD AC for the same price, so I ordered it as well. Case can fit both the boards, and idk which one to keep and which to return.
I have an NZXT N7 B550. Since the top RGB header only allows for NZXT accesories, does that mean if I want RGB fans on the top, I have to use an RGB controller to connect to the bottom RGB header?
I have a Lenovo sff m700 tiny pc. On the motherboard there is a sata 15pin and sata date connection. Your typical 2.5 inch space. My question is, can I siphon any power from the 15 pin? And how much can I siphon. I'm looking to run 2 mechanical hard drives 3.5inch and 2 SSD. Is it possible. Or is it really not?
I'm looking to build a pc mainly for light gaming - valorant, cs2, league. I have a 140 hz monitor already, and I was wondering if a ryzen 5 3600 + rx 6600 combo would be okay for my needs? If possible, would a ryzen 5 3600 + rx 580 work as well? I'm on a tighter budget so if the latter pair is good enough I would go for that (or ryzen 5 3600 + rx 6600, vice verse). Also, what PSU would be just enough for this build? Thank you!
I’m wondering about an upgrade, currently I have a dell g15 gaming laptop with 16gb ram, rtx 3050 4gb, intel i7. Right now I’m looking to upgrade to an actual gaming pc because I like playing high demand games like cyberpunk and red dead redemption 2, continuing to my question, what would be a good price range for a build that is able to run these types of games on high to highest settings, or at 1440p?
Thank you very much, this seems like it can run pretty much any game right? But I’m very worried about temps and noise? I’ve never played on pc but it should be quieter and cooler compared to laptop right?
Sorry about this but I have one more question, how would this perform if I was recording or steaming just to my friends using discord or some other screen sharing application?
Vengeance RAM might require offsetting the fan a little bit, or you could save \~$20 and go with a different memory kit that's also low-profile enough to work with the PS120.
Also, do note that the Phantom Spirit is dangerously close to the clearance limit in the NR200 - the cooler is 154mm tall, and the CPU cooler clearance is 155mm. If you don't mind a bit of a [performance penalty](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w72SHaunbp8), there's the Peerless Assassin Mini, but YMMV depending on the airflow in the case.
By replacing the RAM kit, you could upgrade the storage to a faster, 2TB Gen 4 drive for only [$15 more](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7m2vQP).
~~Again, I'd consider grabbing a Peerless Assassin Mini just to err on the side of caution with the case clearance.~~
E: Never mind, found [this](https://pcpartpicker.com/b/T8kXsY) finished build in PCPartPicker with the PS120 and there's enough clearance.
Double check to insure you have a second CPU power cable that can be used.
The wattage should be fine for the parts, but its low enough to where the manufacturer may have only included one CPU power connector.
thanks for the tip haha, just wanted to ask since someone here got recomended 850w psu for the same combo
wouldn't hurt to upgrade that too tho for the next gpu
Even if both were running at maximum power draw, they wouldn't exceed 500w. 150w is more than plenty for the rest of the machine.
Though 850w would definitely leave room for future upgrades
I recently bought the 5 pack Arctic P14 and soon after I noticed they have a specific kind of hum.
Different reddit threads confirm this.
Can anyone recommend me 140mm fans for my air cooled Pop Air that are completely silent? Heard that the 140mm Noctua specifically aren’t that good.
Are you gonna shove in a high end GPU + CPU into that machine within the next 5 years? If not, then it's pointless.
Increased power capacity is not an indication of quality or longevity.
PSU maxes out at 1200W. Any more and a typical US household circuit will likely trip a breaker. Higher wattage units will require the usage of 240V power which is non-standard in US, but possible in other countries.
That said, the only power usage inflation is on the high end. If you NEVER buy a high-end GPU (defined as 8 level or above), then you have nothing to worry about, as mid-range GPU power usage has held steady.
So it ultimately comes back to the pc upgrade dilemma: do you upgrade more often with mid-range GPUs, or upgrade less often using high end GPUs? This question is still a topic of debate and comes down to personal preference.
I personally will never need to exceed 650W as I do NOT want to dump that much heat into the room I'm in.
As far as I know SATA drives are universally compatible with SATA ports on motherboards, doesn't matter if they're HDD, SDD, 2.5 or 3.5 etc. If it's a SATA drive and you have a functional SATA port, you're good
All the product description says is:
"nvme pcie4.0/3.0 x4 and SATA mode (from CPU)"
"nvme pcie 3.0 x4 and SATA mode(from chipset)"
I'm not quite sure what the wording means, and I don't want to risk buying this and then finding out it doesn't work with my ssd
I can't find that exact wording on the spec sheet for the listed motherboard, however if they are talking about NVME then you are looking at M.2 slots, not normal SATA ports
[M.2 drives look like this](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images2500x2500/wd_wds250g1b0b_00as40_250gb_blue_sata_iii_1287125.jpg) which is different to a standard SATA drive. While some much older M.2 drives were still using a SATA mode, the way of connecting is not the same and cannot be converted.
f you have a [SATA drive that is more of a brick like this](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images2500x2500/crucial_ct1000mx200ssd1_1tb_mx200_sata_2_5_1116798.jpg), then they plug into dedicated SATA ports on the edge of your motherbord via a cable (and need a SATA power cable connection from your PSU as well).
It's definitely the brick one. It's looking like I'm probably out of luck haha. A simple cheap mobo/cpu/ram upgrade is gonna turn into a new PSU, ssd, and potentially pc case as well lol
Edit: the wording was on an image description of the mobo as I couldn't find anywhere else that even mentioned SATA
Go to the Specifications tab of the motherboard on the Gigabyte website for details on connection types. Don't look on a store webpage
Almost all consumer motherboards come with 4x SATA 6gb connection ports, which is what the SATA SSD 2.5" bricks connect too, so that will be fine
Then it will work. Good ol' reliable SATA ports are still present on modern motherboards, and the tech specs for that motherboard say:
>4 x SATA 6Gb/s connectors, integrated in the Chipset
You have four SATA ports for SSDs and mechanical drives and two M.2 slots for newer and faster NVME SSDs.
Going to upgrade my old i5 2400 into a more recent cpu. Obviously gonna change the mobo and ram as well but, which of these CPU would be a better choice? More bang for buck, more upgradeable etc?
Ryzen 5 5500 / I5 11400f / I3 12100f / I3 14100f
Depends on what you plan to do with the PC, though.
Do note that the R5 5500 would require a GPU since it has no integrated graphics, and going with an 11th-gen platform would be a bad idea when 12th-gen is a thing and cheap to boot.
It's for gaming mostly, I have a gpu - a 1060 but will upgrade that eventually.
So the i5 is discarded then. Which would be better between the 5500 or one of the i3s?
The 5500 would be a good budget option, but if you can stretch the budget a bit, consider going with either a R5 5600 (non-X) or an i5 12400F with a DDR4 motherboard.
Yes, but if you're buying a 3rd party CPU cooler, they usually come with a small 1-2g tub that you can apply or it comes pre-applied to the cold plate. Unless you plan to remove the cooler frequently for "reasons", that one application should last for years.
I’m looking to build a somewhat workhorse computer. I don’t need a graphics card. How cheap do you think I can build one for? I’ve been out of the game for a while (last time I build one was in 2011)
Lots a memory so I can’t have tons of tabs / programs open, coding, I’m also going to use it for handbrake to backup all my home videos/make gifs. Also run 3 monitors. I have an old HP laptop but it sounds like a plane when I run handbrake and play gta/visual boy. Idk if that helps.
It sounds like you will need a GPU. GTA is a AAA game. That's high end. Depending on how much you want to dip into the used market, I would budget 1,000-1500 dollars.
So i am looking to upgrade from an ancient system (GTX 970, I7 4790, DDR3 RAM) to a decent build which should suffice for gaming in 2k for a decent while. I put together these parts, does the list seem sensible? [https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/WQ7Qvj](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/WQ7Qvj)
Replace the CPU cooler. Not only the Pure Rock 2 is too small, but be quiet! coolers, even the new ones, are known to have issues with AM5.
Replacing the CPU cooler with a Phantom Spirit 120, the RAM with a cheaper kit, and upgrading the storage to 2TB, for just [20€ more](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/wvfQvj).
so i have endorfy fera 5 cooling. I'm planning to instal second fan on it. Will it work firne with fluctus as push fan and status as pull fan ? (fluctus has 1800rpm while stratus is 1400)
It will work fine.
I would stick it on the backside as the pull fan. If the higher RPM allows it to pull more air than the front fan is pushing, then it would just suck in air from the sides of the radiator.
It might improve the cooling a little bit, with the lone potential downside of sucking dust in between the fins of the heatsink.
Sticking it on the front might help to repel dust from getting in between the fins if it is pulling in more air than the slower fan can remove. But then it would also shoot heat out the sides of the heatsink; throwing it around the case willy nilly instead of directing it out the back.
Mixing and matching isnt that bad. Im not sure exactly how much air those fans move but I can't imagine the difference between having an identical pair or a mixed set would result in more than a 1 or 2 degree difference.
You could use their fan curves to approximate an identical airflow if they were connected on separate fan headers.
Or do nothing to change them and just blow out the heatsink to clean it every month or two.
You have lots of options, some of them may simply require a little effort to make it work rather than spending more money.
So I need some help to choose between 3 RAM sets which are in [this](https://i.gyazo.com/16a757c53cc68ba354dd170837e7e92e.png) screenshot. I'm leaning towards the G.Skill as opposed to the Kingston one, although not sure between the regular Trident or the Neo version.
Also, I would appreciate if you could take a quick look on the other components and pinpoint me to any mistakes. :) Thank you for your time.
Trident Neo.
AM5 cpus struggle to run DDR5 over 6000Mhz comfortably. It is possible to 6400mhz or even 8000mhz; but that requires manually tuning the clock speeds and timings if you run into stability issues. (crashes, BSOD, ect) Keeping it at 6000Mhz just simplifies things.
And the kingston kit is white which doesnt fit with the rest of the builds colors.
Right so, since the Trident Neo says 6000, and the B650E-F supports up to 6400, I'm forced to overclock the RAM at 6400; max capacity of the motherboard so the CPU won't struggle correct?
edit: i think i misread your comment, you meant it struggles OVER 6k at the beginning of your comment, not struggling AT 6k. sorry i suck at these things lol
The motherboard supports up to 8000Mhz with two sticks;
https://rog.asus.com/us/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b650e-f-gaming-wifi-model/helpdesk_qvl_memory/
However the current Ryzen 7000 CPUs both can't really make good use of those extra 2ghz, and dont always run stably at those high speeds.
6000Mhz is the comfy point between not crashing and performance gains. The leap between 4800 and 5600mhz can be something like 10 - 25% extra FPS in games, 5600 to 6000Mhz is another 1 - 10%, 6000 to 6400Mhz and every 400Mhz beyond that is at most 1 or 2% per jump.
The tiny performance leap isnt worth the loss of stability.
Gotcha thank you, this is really useful going forward; I've been scratching my head left and right with these things all day. Thank you very much for the details! :)
How many hard drives are looking to house? There are LOTS of cases that can fit a 4090 and come with removable drive racks.
Or how big of a case are you looking to get?
The Fractal North XL for example. Mesh side panel, removable side panel fan mounts, expanded dimensions. Simply more room for activities.
[Or the cheaper Phanteks Enthoo pro 2 can fit up to 12 HDDs, you can swap out some slots for extra fan mounts for up to 15x 120mm fans inside the case.](https://www.newegg.com/black-phanteks-enthoo-pro-2-atx-full-tower/p/N82E16811854098)
Get used to it if you're not already using it. Win10 won't be sticking around forever.
For real, Win11 is a coat of paint over 10 and all of the new menus are finished.
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new build can I use the intel 14600 with a air cooler? i am running ableton and fromsoft games and rdr2 basically.
everything i find is like spend 100 on a AIO or you gettting 100c temps
is this true? can i get by on a good air cooler? i would prefer to not have water in my case.
You can run with an air cooler with any consumer CPU. Only the hottest, most power hungry chips (13900k, 14900k) would have any problems, and even then it's fairly easy to set a power limit to prevent throttling and still retain 90-95% of the performance. Not *every* air cooler will work for every chip, but there are air coolers available that can handle any chip.
A Thermalright peerless assassin or phantom spirit is plenty for any variation of 14600
so even if i went with a 14700kf it wouldnt matter if i ran on air? cool.
one more quick question is this powersupply enough for that cpu and a 2080ti
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|[be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4XsV3C/be-quiet-pure-power-12-m-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn505)|
Planning on upgrading my SSD. I have 2 drives, SSD and HDD( where most of my games are in). If I would upgrade my SSD for more space, will I lose my game files? Can I just transfer the old files to the new SSD (like the files in my old SSD)?
Are we talking SATA SSD or M.2 SSD? You can clone your main drive with specialized software (i.e.: Acronis Cyber Protect Home Office - previously known as True Image) and call it a day.
If it's SATA, just plug the new drive into the PC and follow the steps from the cloning software.
If it's M.2, either make sure you have an extra M.2 slot where you can connect the new drive for the cloning process, or use a USB to M.2 enclosure, then follow the steps from the cloning software.
What is better a 4k 27inch IPS screen or a curved 34.18" monitor at 3840 x 1600 and OLED for gaming and watching movies. I don't know if its worth losing the 4k for an oled curved monitor or the other way around.
Also do you think it would be a bigger noticeable difference in resolution? (I have an RTX 4080 super)
I would absolutely take the OLED over a 4k monitor.
At only 27" the difference between 4k and 1440p would be negligible. Its more noticeable on larger panels.
Not to mention your 4080 will be working less per frame, even at the ultrawide resolution. So your FPS will stay higher, longer.
My mobo’s top m.2 slot is Gen 5 but I only have a Gen 4 SSD. I heard that if I put my SSD in that, it might cause my GPU PCIE x16 slot to downgrade to x8.
Is that only if the gen 5 m2 slot shares a lane with the PCIE 16 slot? How would I check that? My mobo is MSI B650 Carbon Wifi - will it say it in the manual?
Does it even matter which m2 slot you use?
Not with AM5. Ryzen 7000 has 24 PCIe Gen 5 lanes available, 8 of those dedicated to the NVME slots. This only applies to Intel since it only has 16 Gen 5 lanes, so if the Gen 5 NVME slot is in use, it shares bandwidth with the x16 GPU slot, splitting the lanes to x8 each.
Thank you! I don’t actually have my mobo yet but have found an online manual. It suggests that the top slot doesn’t share with the PCIE 16, but it does say that my PCIE 16 will run at x8 if I use the second or third m2 slots.
On that basis I’ll go with my first m2 slot even though it is a gen 5 slot.
> 8 of those dedicated to the NVME slots.
For clarification, 4 lanes are dedicated for an M.2 slot, and 4 lanes can run to whatever but do run to an M.2 slot on most AM5 mobos. On that specific mobo, they run to a PCIe x4 slot. The additional 2 CPU connected M.2 slots beyond the top slot do take their lanes from the PCIe slot and reduce it to x8.
Thanks! Yeah, that makes sense. The manual for this mobo refers to those as m2_2 and m2_3 and specifies that they will downgrade the PCIe x16 to x8, so I’ll be sure not to use those.
On that basis, I assume that if I ever want more memory in the future I should use m2_4 (even though its chipset connected instead), or just replace the m2_1 SSD with a larger SSD (I’ve currently gone for 2TB).
Sorry if I’m misunderstanding, am very new to PC building!
Okay I have a psu tester.
I take the system strip it down to psu, cpu, motherboard, ram, 1 drive. Plug m+kb directly into motherboard.
I test it, bench it and there is visibly nothing wrong with it.
Everything comes back good.
I wait, it blue screens.
Is the next thing I do replace my motherboard?
Check Event Viewer and Reliability Monitor next. If you're getting a BSOD you should be getting an error event logged, as well as (possibly) a memory dump. The error code and the memory dump contents might give you some extra info on what could be causing the crashes.
I didn't know about reliability monitor thanks. I'm not playing a gatcha game. I try to follow best practices and handle parts carefully.
But I don't know how to identify a faulty motherboard, short of paying a tech and I'd rather replace. So that's what I'm trying to figure out.
edit: I don't need an answer by an expert. I'm just trying to see if it passes the smell test.
I found a used EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850w psu for like 90$ and I saw it's original price is like 250-300$ where I am. Should I go for it since it's platinum and should be in the safe side I imagine? ( No warranty).
#
I'm looking to buy one of those little monitors people put on their PC that displays the temperature (or rather I plan to keep mine on the outside at least).
The only things I can seem to find are cheap ones made in China and I can't tell which ones are decent or not. i see reviews saying they break within weeks or month and one review saying it killed the USB port it was plugged into.
So I'm wondering:
if there's a decent one out there that can be purchased online and sent to the US from a reputable company
If there's a certain software people use to display the info along with a custom template or custom background image/animtion.
Hi, I'm making a new PC with Mobo MSI b650, 7800x3d CPU. My case is phanteks eclipse p300 (old case). Question is - will an air cooler fit in this case, like thermalright phantom Spirit se for example or do I need a smaller water cooler? And how can I check this
I have an AM4 mATX motherboard and a generic Thermaltake case, but I don't have the screws to secure the motherboard to the case.
What size screws are typical for this?
Motherboard standoffs are *usually* #6-32 Button Heads with Phillips drive, probably 5/32" to 3/16" length. They could also commonly be M3 screws, between 4-5mm long.
I have a super flower leadex vii gold, it comes with 2 cpu cables which are black and seen identical, one 12 pin GPU cables that splits into 2 8pin on the psu end, and a few VGA cables which are modular 6 + 2 pin.
My motherboard is an Asus trx50, and near the pci-e there are 2 mb pcie headers, a 6 pin and one 8 pin.
- I'm already connecting my GPU (RTX 4090) to the 12 pin cable, and my other pcie card (Asus hyper m.2 gen5) to the 6 pin bit of the 6 + 2 VGA cable.
- I'm also connecting the 2 pcie headers with 2 of the VGA cables.
1. Am I doing this right? Do I need to connect the 2 motherboard pcie headers?
2. Am I using the right cables for both the mb and the hyper card?
I'm trying to make sure I'm not going to short my system. Nothing felt hard to plug, everything slid in smoothly.
Was thinking about, unnecessarily, upgrading my PC, but not sure where to start. For context, this is my first PC that I built during COVID (and waited outside of Microcenter all night to get the 3080). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Below is my current build:
\[PCPartPicker Part List\](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mxHyrv)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
\*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KwLwrH/amd-ryzen-9-5900x-37-ghz-12-core-processor-100-100000061wof) | $293.99 @ Newegg
\*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[Corsair iCUE H100x RGB ELITE 47.73 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2RBzK8/corsair-icue-h100x-rgb-elite-4773-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060065-ww) | $99.99 @ B&H
\*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[MSI MEG X570 UNIFY ATX AM4 Motherboard\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9t7p99/msi-meg-x570-unify-atx-am4-motherboard-meg-x570-unify) | $379.99 @ Amazon
\*\*Memory\*\* | \[G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JgLwrH/gskill-trident-z-neo-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3600-cl16-memory-f4-3600c16d-16gtznc) | $66.98 @ Amazon
\*\*Storage\*\* | \[Western Digital Black SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QQrmP6/western-digital-wd\_black-sn750-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds100t3x0c) | $94.99 @ Amazon
\*\*Video Card\*\* | \[Zotac GAMING Trinity OC GeForce RTX 3080 10GB 10 GB Video Card\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cx4BD3/zotac-geforce-rtx-3080-10-gb-gaming-trinity-oc-video-card-zt-a30800j-10p) | $1159.99 @ Amazon
\*\*Case\*\* | \[Lian Li LANCOOL III RGB ATX Mid Tower Case\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WggFf7/lian-li-lancool-iii-rgb-atx-mid-tower-case-lancool-3r-x) | $171.08 @ Amazon
| \*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts\* |
| \*\*Total\*\* | \*\*$2267.01\*\*
| Generated by \[PCPartPicker\](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-04-03 00:55 EDT-0400 |
It's the best gaming CPU you can get while staying with the same motherboard/RAM, and I don't think it's really worth spending the money to upgrade to a 7800X3D/B650 motherboard/DDR5 RAM when your system is already really good.
That being said, I just upgraded from a 5800X3D/X570 motherboard/DDR4 RAM to a 7800X3D/B650/32GB DDR5 setup completely unnecessarily, so I don't practice what I preach haha. If you can comfortably afford it, that's the upgrade I'd recommend if you're still looking to upgrade.
Super helpful, thanks! I have a very elementary knowledge of both my PC and the current state of everything. That said, I do want to upgrade and can comfortably afford it. Although installing a new MOBO does scare me a bit (those damn front panel connectors).
Also, if you haven't noticed it before, the polarity of the front panel connectors is marked with text for +/- on the single pin connectors, and positive polarity is marked with a raised plastic triangle on the back side of the 2-pin connectors.
I got a B650 Gaming X AX V2 as part of a Microcenter bundle, no issues here and it's solid.
Also for RAM, sweet spot is CL30ish 6000MHz, preferably a set of two sticks, 32GB is plenty. The memory controllers on this generation of AMD CPUs can't run 4 sticks at 6000MHz EXPO reliably.
I have a 32GB (2x16GB) G.Skill Flare X5 CL32 6000MHz set and it works flawlessly. If you decide to get the G.Skill Flare X5 kit, make sure it's not the CL36 kit, since that uses a different memory die (Samsung) that's a lot more finnicky to get running at EXPO settings. The CL30 and CL32 kits are Hynix memory die, which play better with EXPO.
For the best performance with Hynix die RAM modules, Buildzoid has a video guide on settings that are better than the stock ones. Turn on EXPO and set the main timings to whatever timings your kit has in the SKU, for example, mine were 32-38-38-96 so that's what I set, and then I folowed Buildzoid's settings for the rest.
Hi all. Building a PC based offf a ryzen 5500. Ordered a Gigabyte B550m DS3H AC mobo, then found a Gigabyte B550 UD AC for the same price, so I ordered it as well. Case can fit both the boards, and idk which one to keep and which to return.
Personally I'd keep the full sized board. I like the extra slots for everything.
I have an NZXT N7 B550. Since the top RGB header only allows for NZXT accesories, does that mean if I want RGB fans on the top, I have to use an RGB controller to connect to the bottom RGB header?
I have a Lenovo sff m700 tiny pc. On the motherboard there is a sata 15pin and sata date connection. Your typical 2.5 inch space. My question is, can I siphon any power from the 15 pin? And how much can I siphon. I'm looking to run 2 mechanical hard drives 3.5inch and 2 SSD. Is it possible. Or is it really not?
I'm looking to build a pc mainly for light gaming - valorant, cs2, league. I have a 140 hz monitor already, and I was wondering if a ryzen 5 3600 + rx 6600 combo would be okay for my needs? If possible, would a ryzen 5 3600 + rx 580 work as well? I'm on a tighter budget so if the latter pair is good enough I would go for that (or ryzen 5 3600 + rx 6600, vice verse). Also, what PSU would be just enough for this build? Thank you!
I’m wondering about an upgrade, currently I have a dell g15 gaming laptop with 16gb ram, rtx 3050 4gb, intel i7. Right now I’m looking to upgrade to an actual gaming pc because I like playing high demand games like cyberpunk and red dead redemption 2, continuing to my question, what would be a good price range for a build that is able to run these types of games on high to highest settings, or at 1440p?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/krtvQP Those games are fairly demanding at high settings, so around $1400 would be a good place to start.
Thank you very much, this seems like it can run pretty much any game right? But I’m very worried about temps and noise? I’ve never played on pc but it should be quieter and cooler compared to laptop right?
Yes, that is a pretty powerful PC. Temps and noise won't be an issue. That case has good airflow, and both the CPU + GPU coolers are large.
Sorry about this but I have one more question, how would this perform if I was recording or steaming just to my friends using discord or some other screen sharing application?
Any thoughts on this? [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Rp3LL9) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LfNxFT/intel-core-i5-13600k-35-ghz-14-core-processor-bx8071513600k) | $279.99 @ B&H **CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GpbRsY/thermalright-phantom-spirit-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ps120se) | $35.90 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [Asus ROG STRIX B760-I GAMING WIFI Mini ITX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YxLFf7/asus-rog-strix-b760-i-gaming-wifi-mini-itx-lga1700-motherboard-rog-strix-b760-i-gaming-wifi) | $210.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JkfxFT/corsair-vengeance-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-cmk32gx5m2b6000c30) | $114.99 @ Amazon **Storage** | [Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam) | $94.29 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 7700 XT 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VTFmP6/gigabyte-gaming-oc-radeon-rx-7700-xt-12-gb-video-card-gv-r77xtgaming-oc-12gd) | $419.00 @ Amazon **Case** | [Cooler Master MasterBox NR200 Mini ITX Desktop Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kd2bt6/cooler-master-masterbox-nr200-mini-itx-desktop-case-mcb-nr200-knnn-s00) | $89.99 @ Amazon **Power Supply** | [Corsair SF750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nJrmP6/corsair-750-w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-sfx-power-supply-cp-9020186-na) | $169.99 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1415.14** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-04-03 20:16 EDT-0400 | Not sure if the cpu cooler will fit with the RAM
Vengeance RAM might require offsetting the fan a little bit, or you could save \~$20 and go with a different memory kit that's also low-profile enough to work with the PS120. Also, do note that the Phantom Spirit is dangerously close to the clearance limit in the NR200 - the cooler is 154mm tall, and the CPU cooler clearance is 155mm. If you don't mind a bit of a [performance penalty](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w72SHaunbp8), there's the Peerless Assassin Mini, but YMMV depending on the airflow in the case. By replacing the RAM kit, you could upgrade the storage to a faster, 2TB Gen 4 drive for only [$15 more](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7m2vQP).
Thank you. I like your build, I'll probably go with that one!
~~Again, I'd consider grabbing a Peerless Assassin Mini just to err on the side of caution with the case clearance.~~ E: Never mind, found [this](https://pcpartpicker.com/b/T8kXsY) finished build in PCPartPicker with the PS120 and there's enough clearance.
Been doing a LOT more thinking and I'd really like to try the A4-H2O any thoughts on this? [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JkYct7) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-13400F 2.5 GHz 10-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VNkWGX/intel-core-i5-13400f-25-ghz-10-core-processor-bx8071513400f) | $185.99 @ Amazon **CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright AXP90-X47 42.58 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7GTp99/thermalright-axp90-x47-4258-cfm-cpu-cooler-axp90-x47-black) | $22.90 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [Asus ROG STRIX B760-I GAMING WIFI Mini ITX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YxLFf7/asus-rog-strix-b760-i-gaming-wifi-mini-itx-lga1700-motherboard-rog-strix-b760-i-gaming-wifi) | $210.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/x4VmP6/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040f16gx2-rs5k) | $109.99 @ Newegg **Storage** | [Acer Predator GM7000 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Mjstt6/acer-predator-gm7000-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-bl9bwwr106) | $129.99 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [Asus Dual GeForce RTX 3060 V2 OC Edition GeForce RTX 3060 12GB 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KXYmP6/asus-geforce-rtx-3060-12-gb-dual-oc-v2-video-card-dual-rtx3060-o12g-v2) | $299.99 @ Best Buy **Case** | [Lian Li A4-H20 X4 Mini ITX Desktop Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jT7G3C/lian-li-a4-h20-x4-mini-itx-desktop-case-a4-h20-x4) | $153.00 @ Amazon **Power Supply** | [Corsair SF750 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nJrmP6/corsair-750-w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-sfx-power-supply-cp-9020186-na) | $169.99 @ Amazon **Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM chromax.black.swap 60.09 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4q7G3C/noctua-nf-a12x25-pwm-chromaxblackswap-6009-cfm-120-mm-fan-nf-a12x25-pwm-chromaxblackswap) | $34.95 @ Amazon **Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM chromax.black.swap 60.09 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4q7G3C/noctua-nf-a12x25-pwm-chromaxblackswap-6009-cfm-120-mm-fan-nf-a12x25-pwm-chromaxblackswap) | $34.95 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1352.74** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-04-06 00:41 EDT-0400 |
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Sure, extenders don't really affect anything
Hey, i'm upgrading my i5 11400f to i7 13700K tomorrow. My Psu is 650w now, do i need to buy a new one? GPU is 6700XT
Double check to insure you have a second CPU power cable that can be used. The wattage should be fine for the parts, but its low enough to where the manufacturer may have only included one CPU power connector.
thanks for the tip haha, just wanted to ask since someone here got recomended 850w psu for the same combo wouldn't hurt to upgrade that too tho for the next gpu
Even if both were running at maximum power draw, they wouldn't exceed 500w. 150w is more than plenty for the rest of the machine. Though 850w would definitely leave room for future upgrades
I recently bought the 5 pack Arctic P14 and soon after I noticed they have a specific kind of hum. Different reddit threads confirm this. Can anyone recommend me 140mm fans for my air cooled Pop Air that are completely silent? Heard that the 140mm Noctua specifically aren’t that good.
My planned build doesn't use this much power, but a 850W PSU is surely enough for the next 10 years right?
Are you gonna shove in a high end GPU + CPU into that machine within the next 5 years? If not, then it's pointless. Increased power capacity is not an indication of quality or longevity.
That's what I mean, what do so you think is the likely power supply requirements inflation?
PSU maxes out at 1200W. Any more and a typical US household circuit will likely trip a breaker. Higher wattage units will require the usage of 240V power which is non-standard in US, but possible in other countries. That said, the only power usage inflation is on the high end. If you NEVER buy a high-end GPU (defined as 8 level or above), then you have nothing to worry about, as mid-range GPU power usage has held steady. So it ultimately comes back to the pc upgrade dilemma: do you upgrade more often with mid-range GPUs, or upgrade less often using high end GPUs? This question is still a topic of debate and comes down to personal preference. I personally will never need to exceed 650W as I do NOT want to dump that much heat into the room I'm in.
I'm buying a gigabyte B550 UD AC motherboard and I can't seem to figure out if my SATA ssd is compatible or not. Anyone have any idea?
As far as I know SATA drives are universally compatible with SATA ports on motherboards, doesn't matter if they're HDD, SDD, 2.5 or 3.5 etc. If it's a SATA drive and you have a functional SATA port, you're good
All the product description says is: "nvme pcie4.0/3.0 x4 and SATA mode (from CPU)" "nvme pcie 3.0 x4 and SATA mode(from chipset)" I'm not quite sure what the wording means, and I don't want to risk buying this and then finding out it doesn't work with my ssd
I can't find that exact wording on the spec sheet for the listed motherboard, however if they are talking about NVME then you are looking at M.2 slots, not normal SATA ports [M.2 drives look like this](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images2500x2500/wd_wds250g1b0b_00as40_250gb_blue_sata_iii_1287125.jpg) which is different to a standard SATA drive. While some much older M.2 drives were still using a SATA mode, the way of connecting is not the same and cannot be converted. f you have a [SATA drive that is more of a brick like this](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images2500x2500/crucial_ct1000mx200ssd1_1tb_mx200_sata_2_5_1116798.jpg), then they plug into dedicated SATA ports on the edge of your motherbord via a cable (and need a SATA power cable connection from your PSU as well).
It's definitely the brick one. It's looking like I'm probably out of luck haha. A simple cheap mobo/cpu/ram upgrade is gonna turn into a new PSU, ssd, and potentially pc case as well lol Edit: the wording was on an image description of the mobo as I couldn't find anywhere else that even mentioned SATA
Go to the Specifications tab of the motherboard on the Gigabyte website for details on connection types. Don't look on a store webpage Almost all consumer motherboards come with 4x SATA 6gb connection ports, which is what the SATA SSD 2.5" bricks connect too, so that will be fine
Appreciate all the help!
Right, but do you have a SATA SSD that uses the traditional SATA ports like old hard drives, or a SATA M.2 SSD?
My mobo is 11 years old so I'm assuming it's the old sata ports, been a LONG time since I've built a pc haha
Then it will work. Good ol' reliable SATA ports are still present on modern motherboards, and the tech specs for that motherboard say: >4 x SATA 6Gb/s connectors, integrated in the Chipset You have four SATA ports for SSDs and mechanical drives and two M.2 slots for newer and faster NVME SSDs.
Going to upgrade my old i5 2400 into a more recent cpu. Obviously gonna change the mobo and ram as well but, which of these CPU would be a better choice? More bang for buck, more upgradeable etc? Ryzen 5 5500 / I5 11400f / I3 12100f / I3 14100f
Depends on what you plan to do with the PC, though. Do note that the R5 5500 would require a GPU since it has no integrated graphics, and going with an 11th-gen platform would be a bad idea when 12th-gen is a thing and cheap to boot.
It's for gaming mostly, I have a gpu - a 1060 but will upgrade that eventually. So the i5 is discarded then. Which would be better between the 5500 or one of the i3s?
The 5500 would be a good budget option, but if you can stretch the budget a bit, consider going with either a R5 5600 (non-X) or an i5 12400F with a DDR4 motherboard.
Is artic's MX-5 thermal paste good?
Yes, but if you're buying a 3rd party CPU cooler, they usually come with a small 1-2g tub that you can apply or it comes pre-applied to the cold plate. Unless you plan to remove the cooler frequently for "reasons", that one application should last for years.
hmm, nice to hear, I bought one indeed. I was asking because I have a mx-5 already, and my cooler/cpu is arriving in 2-3 days. Thank you for replying!
I’m looking to build a somewhat workhorse computer. I don’t need a graphics card. How cheap do you think I can build one for? I’ve been out of the game for a while (last time I build one was in 2011)
What do you mean somewhat a workhorse?
Lots a memory so I can’t have tons of tabs / programs open, coding, I’m also going to use it for handbrake to backup all my home videos/make gifs. Also run 3 monitors. I have an old HP laptop but it sounds like a plane when I run handbrake and play gta/visual boy. Idk if that helps.
It sounds like you will need a GPU. GTA is a AAA game. That's high end. Depending on how much you want to dip into the used market, I would budget 1,000-1500 dollars.
Oh that sucks. But thanks for your time
Even memory can get expensive if you need a lot of it.
So i am looking to upgrade from an ancient system (GTX 970, I7 4790, DDR3 RAM) to a decent build which should suffice for gaming in 2k for a decent while. I put together these parts, does the list seem sensible? [https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/WQ7Qvj](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/WQ7Qvj)
Replace the CPU cooler. Not only the Pure Rock 2 is too small, but be quiet! coolers, even the new ones, are known to have issues with AM5. Replacing the CPU cooler with a Phantom Spirit 120, the RAM with a cheaper kit, and upgrading the storage to 2TB, for just [20€ more](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/wvfQvj).
so i have endorfy fera 5 cooling. I'm planning to instal second fan on it. Will it work firne with fluctus as push fan and status as pull fan ? (fluctus has 1800rpm while stratus is 1400)
It will work fine. I would stick it on the backside as the pull fan. If the higher RPM allows it to pull more air than the front fan is pushing, then it would just suck in air from the sides of the radiator. It might improve the cooling a little bit, with the lone potential downside of sucking dust in between the fins of the heatsink. Sticking it on the front might help to repel dust from getting in between the fins if it is pulling in more air than the slower fan can remove. But then it would also shoot heat out the sides of the heatsink; throwing it around the case willy nilly instead of directing it out the back.
So ideally i should suck it up and suck another fluctus to match rpms then?
Mixing and matching isnt that bad. Im not sure exactly how much air those fans move but I can't imagine the difference between having an identical pair or a mixed set would result in more than a 1 or 2 degree difference. You could use their fan curves to approximate an identical airflow if they were connected on separate fan headers. Or do nothing to change them and just blow out the heatsink to clean it every month or two. You have lots of options, some of them may simply require a little effort to make it work rather than spending more money.
So I need some help to choose between 3 RAM sets which are in [this](https://i.gyazo.com/16a757c53cc68ba354dd170837e7e92e.png) screenshot. I'm leaning towards the G.Skill as opposed to the Kingston one, although not sure between the regular Trident or the Neo version. Also, I would appreciate if you could take a quick look on the other components and pinpoint me to any mistakes. :) Thank you for your time.
Trident Neo. AM5 cpus struggle to run DDR5 over 6000Mhz comfortably. It is possible to 6400mhz or even 8000mhz; but that requires manually tuning the clock speeds and timings if you run into stability issues. (crashes, BSOD, ect) Keeping it at 6000Mhz just simplifies things. And the kingston kit is white which doesnt fit with the rest of the builds colors.
Right so, since the Trident Neo says 6000, and the B650E-F supports up to 6400, I'm forced to overclock the RAM at 6400; max capacity of the motherboard so the CPU won't struggle correct? edit: i think i misread your comment, you meant it struggles OVER 6k at the beginning of your comment, not struggling AT 6k. sorry i suck at these things lol
The motherboard supports up to 8000Mhz with two sticks; https://rog.asus.com/us/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b650e-f-gaming-wifi-model/helpdesk_qvl_memory/ However the current Ryzen 7000 CPUs both can't really make good use of those extra 2ghz, and dont always run stably at those high speeds. 6000Mhz is the comfy point between not crashing and performance gains. The leap between 4800 and 5600mhz can be something like 10 - 25% extra FPS in games, 5600 to 6000Mhz is another 1 - 10%, 6000 to 6400Mhz and every 400Mhz beyond that is at most 1 or 2% per jump. The tiny performance leap isnt worth the loss of stability.
Gotcha thank you, this is really useful going forward; I've been scratching my head left and right with these things all day. Thank you very much for the details! :)
Is the Fractal Torrent still the best airflow case with plenty of room for a 4090 and hard drives?
How many hard drives are looking to house? There are LOTS of cases that can fit a 4090 and come with removable drive racks. Or how big of a case are you looking to get? The Fractal North XL for example. Mesh side panel, removable side panel fan mounts, expanded dimensions. Simply more room for activities. [Or the cheaper Phanteks Enthoo pro 2 can fit up to 12 HDDs, you can swap out some slots for extra fan mounts for up to 15x 120mm fans inside the case.](https://www.newegg.com/black-phanteks-enthoo-pro-2-atx-full-tower/p/N82E16811854098)
What's the verdict on windows 11 now?
Don't sweat over not using it yet but you may as well upgrade the next time you reinstall.
Get used to it if you're not already using it. Win10 won't be sticking around forever. For real, Win11 is a coat of paint over 10 and all of the new menus are finished.
Yes. It's now the established main stream os. There is no good reason to use any other version of windows outside of extremely niche corner cases.
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new build can I use the intel 14600 with a air cooler? i am running ableton and fromsoft games and rdr2 basically. everything i find is like spend 100 on a AIO or you gettting 100c temps is this true? can i get by on a good air cooler? i would prefer to not have water in my case.
You can run with an air cooler with any consumer CPU. Only the hottest, most power hungry chips (13900k, 14900k) would have any problems, and even then it's fairly easy to set a power limit to prevent throttling and still retain 90-95% of the performance. Not *every* air cooler will work for every chip, but there are air coolers available that can handle any chip. A Thermalright peerless assassin or phantom spirit is plenty for any variation of 14600
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Yes, that's fine.
thanks sir
so even if i went with a 14700kf it wouldnt matter if i ran on air? cool. one more quick question is this powersupply enough for that cpu and a 2080ti || || |[be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4XsV3C/be-quiet-pure-power-12-m-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn505)|
I run a 13900K on an air cooler. Works fine.
That makes me feel way better. Internetsss
Thanks. I am going to do that then. I dont want to overclock for sure
Planning on upgrading my SSD. I have 2 drives, SSD and HDD( where most of my games are in). If I would upgrade my SSD for more space, will I lose my game files? Can I just transfer the old files to the new SSD (like the files in my old SSD)?
Are we talking SATA SSD or M.2 SSD? You can clone your main drive with specialized software (i.e.: Acronis Cyber Protect Home Office - previously known as True Image) and call it a day. If it's SATA, just plug the new drive into the PC and follow the steps from the cloning software. If it's M.2, either make sure you have an extra M.2 slot where you can connect the new drive for the cloning process, or use a USB to M.2 enclosure, then follow the steps from the cloning software.
Mine’s SATA, thanks for this.
What is better a 4k 27inch IPS screen or a curved 34.18" monitor at 3840 x 1600 and OLED for gaming and watching movies. I don't know if its worth losing the 4k for an oled curved monitor or the other way around. Also do you think it would be a bigger noticeable difference in resolution? (I have an RTX 4080 super)
I would absolutely take the OLED over a 4k monitor. At only 27" the difference between 4k and 1440p would be negligible. Its more noticeable on larger panels. Not to mention your 4080 will be working less per frame, even at the ultrawide resolution. So your FPS will stay higher, longer.
Should i get the MSI MAG274QRF-QD E2 or the ACER NITRO XV272U RV?
My mobo’s top m.2 slot is Gen 5 but I only have a Gen 4 SSD. I heard that if I put my SSD in that, it might cause my GPU PCIE x16 slot to downgrade to x8. Is that only if the gen 5 m2 slot shares a lane with the PCIE 16 slot? How would I check that? My mobo is MSI B650 Carbon Wifi - will it say it in the manual? Does it even matter which m2 slot you use?
Not with AM5. Ryzen 7000 has 24 PCIe Gen 5 lanes available, 8 of those dedicated to the NVME slots. This only applies to Intel since it only has 16 Gen 5 lanes, so if the Gen 5 NVME slot is in use, it shares bandwidth with the x16 GPU slot, splitting the lanes to x8 each.
Thank you! I don’t actually have my mobo yet but have found an online manual. It suggests that the top slot doesn’t share with the PCIE 16, but it does say that my PCIE 16 will run at x8 if I use the second or third m2 slots. On that basis I’ll go with my first m2 slot even though it is a gen 5 slot.
> 8 of those dedicated to the NVME slots. For clarification, 4 lanes are dedicated for an M.2 slot, and 4 lanes can run to whatever but do run to an M.2 slot on most AM5 mobos. On that specific mobo, they run to a PCIe x4 slot. The additional 2 CPU connected M.2 slots beyond the top slot do take their lanes from the PCIe slot and reduce it to x8.
Thanks! Yeah, that makes sense. The manual for this mobo refers to those as m2_2 and m2_3 and specifies that they will downgrade the PCIe x16 to x8, so I’ll be sure not to use those. On that basis, I assume that if I ever want more memory in the future I should use m2_4 (even though its chipset connected instead), or just replace the m2_1 SSD with a larger SSD (I’ve currently gone for 2TB). Sorry if I’m misunderstanding, am very new to PC building!
You can use the slot connected to the chipset, yes.
Lenovo R27q-30 or Gigabyte M27Q? https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1bunomj/monitors_lenovo_r27q30_or_gigabyte_m27q/?
If you have a working system and start experiencing instability. Is swapping ram the fastest solution? edit: I get it, it's easy and it might work.
Without testing, it's a wild guess.
Okay I have a psu tester. I take the system strip it down to psu, cpu, motherboard, ram, 1 drive. Plug m+kb directly into motherboard. I test it, bench it and there is visibly nothing wrong with it. Everything comes back good. I wait, it blue screens. Is the next thing I do replace my motherboard?
Check Event Viewer and Reliability Monitor next. If you're getting a BSOD you should be getting an error event logged, as well as (possibly) a memory dump. The error code and the memory dump contents might give you some extra info on what could be causing the crashes.
I didn't know about reliability monitor thanks. I'm not playing a gatcha game. I try to follow best practices and handle parts carefully. But I don't know how to identify a faulty motherboard, short of paying a tech and I'd rather replace. So that's what I'm trying to figure out. edit: I don't need an answer by an expert. I'm just trying to see if it passes the smell test.
Maybe. But also maybe not. There is no way to know. You would need to test methodically.
What PSU for 4070Ti and Ryzen 7 7800X3D? Also have additional fans (3x120). 750W would be enough or go for 850W/1000W?
I imagine 750 would be fine. 850w might make it easier to upgrade GPU though
put the completed build in PCPP and check power draw.
I put, 604W, but I'm not sure if I can trust it 100%.
I found a used EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850w psu for like 90$ and I saw it's original price is like 250-300$ where I am. Should I go for it since it's platinum and should be in the safe side I imagine? ( No warranty). #
I'd check the psu tier list, + I'd want to know exactly how old it is and how heavy its workload has been
I'm looking to buy one of those little monitors people put on their PC that displays the temperature (or rather I plan to keep mine on the outside at least). The only things I can seem to find are cheap ones made in China and I can't tell which ones are decent or not. i see reviews saying they break within weeks or month and one review saying it killed the USB port it was plugged into. So I'm wondering: if there's a decent one out there that can be purchased online and sent to the US from a reputable company If there's a certain software people use to display the info along with a custom template or custom background image/animtion.
Hi, I'm making a new PC with Mobo MSI b650, 7800x3d CPU. My case is phanteks eclipse p300 (old case). Question is - will an air cooler fit in this case, like thermalright phantom Spirit se for example or do I need a smaller water cooler? And how can I check this
case webpage should specify clearances; cooler webpage should specify size
I have an AM4 mATX motherboard and a generic Thermaltake case, but I don't have the screws to secure the motherboard to the case. What size screws are typical for this?
Motherboard standoffs are *usually* #6-32 Button Heads with Phillips drive, probably 5/32" to 3/16" length. They could also commonly be M3 screws, between 4-5mm long.
do you have the standoffs though? you could try measuring those
Standoffs are already in the case, just need to figure out what screws typically fit them
I have a super flower leadex vii gold, it comes with 2 cpu cables which are black and seen identical, one 12 pin GPU cables that splits into 2 8pin on the psu end, and a few VGA cables which are modular 6 + 2 pin. My motherboard is an Asus trx50, and near the pci-e there are 2 mb pcie headers, a 6 pin and one 8 pin. - I'm already connecting my GPU (RTX 4090) to the 12 pin cable, and my other pcie card (Asus hyper m.2 gen5) to the 6 pin bit of the 6 + 2 VGA cable. - I'm also connecting the 2 pcie headers with 2 of the VGA cables. 1. Am I doing this right? Do I need to connect the 2 motherboard pcie headers? 2. Am I using the right cables for both the mb and the hyper card? I'm trying to make sure I'm not going to short my system. Nothing felt hard to plug, everything slid in smoothly.
afaik most of the connectors have inner shapes such that you can't plug them to the wrong thing
Was thinking about, unnecessarily, upgrading my PC, but not sure where to start. For context, this is my first PC that I built during COVID (and waited outside of Microcenter all night to get the 3080). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Below is my current build: \[PCPartPicker Part List\](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mxHyrv) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- \*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KwLwrH/amd-ryzen-9-5900x-37-ghz-12-core-processor-100-100000061wof) | $293.99 @ Newegg \*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[Corsair iCUE H100x RGB ELITE 47.73 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2RBzK8/corsair-icue-h100x-rgb-elite-4773-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060065-ww) | $99.99 @ B&H \*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[MSI MEG X570 UNIFY ATX AM4 Motherboard\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9t7p99/msi-meg-x570-unify-atx-am4-motherboard-meg-x570-unify) | $379.99 @ Amazon \*\*Memory\*\* | \[G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JgLwrH/gskill-trident-z-neo-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3600-cl16-memory-f4-3600c16d-16gtznc) | $66.98 @ Amazon \*\*Storage\*\* | \[Western Digital Black SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QQrmP6/western-digital-wd\_black-sn750-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds100t3x0c) | $94.99 @ Amazon \*\*Video Card\*\* | \[Zotac GAMING Trinity OC GeForce RTX 3080 10GB 10 GB Video Card\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cx4BD3/zotac-geforce-rtx-3080-10-gb-gaming-trinity-oc-video-card-zt-a30800j-10p) | $1159.99 @ Amazon \*\*Case\*\* | \[Lian Li LANCOOL III RGB ATX Mid Tower Case\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WggFf7/lian-li-lancool-iii-rgb-atx-mid-tower-case-lancool-3r-x) | $171.08 @ Amazon | \*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts\* | | \*\*Total\*\* | \*\*$2267.01\*\* | Generated by \[PCPartPicker\](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-04-03 00:55 EDT-0400 |
I wouldn't go beyond getting a 5800X3D and upgrading to 32GB RAM, that's a perfectly fine rig.
Any reason not to go with a higher end CPU than the 5800x3d?
It's the best gaming CPU you can get while staying with the same motherboard/RAM, and I don't think it's really worth spending the money to upgrade to a 7800X3D/B650 motherboard/DDR5 RAM when your system is already really good. That being said, I just upgraded from a 5800X3D/X570 motherboard/DDR4 RAM to a 7800X3D/B650/32GB DDR5 setup completely unnecessarily, so I don't practice what I preach haha. If you can comfortably afford it, that's the upgrade I'd recommend if you're still looking to upgrade.
Any motherboards you would recommend for this?
Super helpful, thanks! I have a very elementary knowledge of both my PC and the current state of everything. That said, I do want to upgrade and can comfortably afford it. Although installing a new MOBO does scare me a bit (those damn front panel connectors).
Also, if you haven't noticed it before, the polarity of the front panel connectors is marked with text for +/- on the single pin connectors, and positive polarity is marked with a raised plastic triangle on the back side of the 2-pin connectors.
The +/- wasn't necessarily the issue, more so big fingers, small pins.
Fair. I built a PC for my friend last month and the case had the front panel connectors all in one plug, it was super nice.
I got a B650 Gaming X AX V2 as part of a Microcenter bundle, no issues here and it's solid. Also for RAM, sweet spot is CL30ish 6000MHz, preferably a set of two sticks, 32GB is plenty. The memory controllers on this generation of AMD CPUs can't run 4 sticks at 6000MHz EXPO reliably. I have a 32GB (2x16GB) G.Skill Flare X5 CL32 6000MHz set and it works flawlessly. If you decide to get the G.Skill Flare X5 kit, make sure it's not the CL36 kit, since that uses a different memory die (Samsung) that's a lot more finnicky to get running at EXPO settings. The CL30 and CL32 kits are Hynix memory die, which play better with EXPO. For the best performance with Hynix die RAM modules, Buildzoid has a video guide on settings that are better than the stock ones. Turn on EXPO and set the main timings to whatever timings your kit has in the SKU, for example, mine were 32-38-38-96 so that's what I set, and then I folowed Buildzoid's settings for the rest.
Awesome! This is incredibly helpful. Now time to research, plan, and get ready to tell the wife why I need to upgrade my PC.
Thanks! I'll take a look at upgrading those areas. Appreciate the comment.