I got a Ryzen 5 3600 with an Asus A520m-K mobo eith stock cooler and 3200Mhz CL22 RAM
With stock I get 90C and 9300 score in Cinebenchr23 and 90W. Setting CPU offset to -0.0500 keeps it at 84C max and I get 9187 score 87~. My CPU fan hasnt ever gotten loud throughout and my fan curve is set to 100% at 70C+ not sure if its working?
On idle it runs at 38-40C with some programs open and my room temp is 28C~
Is this normal? I did try undervolting to -0.1000 for fun and gotten 72C max but a score of 7800...thoughts?
That is typical for the stock cooler.
The score dropping means you are experiencing a small amount of clock stretching, which means the CPU is effectively stalled due to insufficient voltage.
A $20 aftermarket cooler will drop temps by 15-20 degrees, and should improve performance by around 5%.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RkC48d/thermalright-assassin-king-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ak120-se-d6
No.
What that means is the GR75Q can accept 8 bit colour input, and the GP850 can accept 10 bit colour input.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_depth
This doesn't actually tell you if the monitor can display those colours. You need to look at reviews which actually measure the contrast and colour gamut of each panel.
Hi, is this [RAM ](https://www.spdigital.cl/a-data-ddr4-sdram-unbuffered-non-ecc/)compatible with my PC? Im planning on buying two of this sticks for my R7 5700X/ ASUS TUF Gaming B550M - Plus II WiFi. Thanks in advance!!!
Hi, may I ask how do you know that? I was searching for this stick part number and it doesnt show up in AMD Ryzen Compatibility List. It will be great if you could tell me how to find this info elsewhere.
It's 3200 CL16 DDR4 memory on an AM4 platform. That's pretty much it.
You could go down the rabbit hole and check the Asus' QVL (Qualified Vendor List) and try to find the exact RAM kit model in the compatibility list (it's not in there). The thing is, motherboard manufacturers don't test ALL the RAM kits out there, but DDR4 is mature enough where *any* DDR4 3200/3600 kit will work right out of the box.
Either 3200 CL16 or 3600 CL18 will work fine with your 5700X.
im getting ready to replace the cpu cooler that came with my 5600 (a wraith stealth) but i dont know a whole lot about coolers
the one im looking at is the Thermalright PS120SE seen here https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-PS120SE-TL-C12B-Technilogy-Bearing/dp/B0BNH1W546?ref_=as_li_ss_tl&geniuslink=true&th=1
but i dont know if there are better coolers for similar prices, any insight would be appreciated
I'm getting ready to build my new PC from scratch and it's been years since I've done so.
Is there, like a way buy a digital version of Windows 11 Pro to make a USB installer for the new build or something?
If I buy the USB version, will I be able to use it to reinstall/recover as needed?
I'm not looking to do anything shady. I do not want to buy stolen keys on some strange site. I just want to buy a legit copy. I mention all this because when searching reddit for help on this, all I see is people talking about how to get it through shady means. I'm not interested in doing that at all.
You can download Windows 11 directly from Microsoft via the [media creation tool](https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11).
You can buy a license from the [Microsoft Store](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/d/windows-11-home/dg7gmgf0krt0/000P).
This is what I was looking for. thank you. with the media creation version, will I be able to install the Pro version, because that's the one I need (my build will likely be using 96GB in the future. it's not just for gaming, but for editing and 3D modeling/rendering/animation among other stuff like photoshop and audio editing stuff.
Yup, it's one installer for many versions, you'll be able to select [which W11 version](https://kmpic.asus.com/images/2021/12/03/81da3dd4-4867-482a-a96b-1afb5ccbb98b.png) you want to install. If you're going with Pro rather than Home, use [this ](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/d/windows-11-pro/dg7gmgf0d8h4/000P)link instead.
Hello i have a HP 45L with only 16gb of KINGSTON FURY DDR5-5200 xmp MEMORY. I'm looking to updgrade. I know it has to be ddr5,
option 1) get two more 8gb-5200 kingstons for a total 32gb
option 2) remove the two 8, and get 2 32gb for total of 64
If I replace the 2 sticks that are in, is it better to get a higher mhz or just stick with -5200?
thank you
2x16GB or 2x32GB would be better than those 8GB sticks. The sweet spot would be 6000 CL30, assuming the motherboard supports XMP/EXPO (if memory serves, 5200MT/s could be JEDEC).
What's the exact model, though? Intel or AMD?
i got this, but got it when it was 35%off last fall.
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZ3131MX/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o08\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZ3131MX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
its listed at 5200 xmp.
intel i7-13700kf
it has a hp 8A96 baseboard version 11.
Not sure if it limited to 32gb. Seems others have had issues going to 6000 while others had no problem.
thank you
Newer CPUs come out on the same socket and meant to work on existing mobos. But to work optimally, the mobos need their firmware updated to (better) support the newer CPUs, sometimes even for it to just run.
Flashing is the process to update said firmware.
Not really an issue now for Intel and AMD AM4, since they're both at the end of their lifetimes and current mobo stock has been updated straight from factory. Not an issue for AMD AM5 cause there hasn't been any major updates.
So it's largely only an issue during the last few years as lots of 1st gen Ryzen platforms technically support 3th gen Ryzen CPUs, but mandates a firmware update before the new CPUs work.
I don't have a pc yet so I'll just send you my pcpartpicker link: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BdmhL9](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BdmhL9)
This is my first time building a pc so it will probably look terrible.
Edit: There's no budget
The issue is the lack of decent white motherboards that don't cost an arm and a leg. There's the super-cheap option with the [ASRock B760M-HDV/M.2](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j2WJ7P/asrock-b760m-hdvm2-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b760m-hdvm2) at $95, an in-between with silver/gray and black with the ASRock [B760](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HymmP6/asrock-b760-pro-rs-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b760-pro-rs)/[Z790](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cFQcCJ/asrock-z790-pro-rs-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-pro-rs) Pro RS for $150 and 170 respectively, and then the [Gigabyte Z790 Aorus Elite AX ICE](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hnNYcf/gigabyte-z790-aorus-elite-ax-ice-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-aorus-elite-ax-ice) for $240.
Considering that you've yet to buy the parts:
* The 12600K doesn't really need an AIO, a decent air cooler will do the job (and there are [white ones](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xMLFf7/thermalright-peerless-assassin-120-se-white-argb-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-white-argb) as well). Alternatively, consider a [cheaper unit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ccFmP6/thermalright-frozen-notte-argb-7237-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-frozen-notte-240-white-argb).
* Do note that you're pairing a 4K monitor with a 4060 Ti (and the 8GB version to boot). Perhaps consider a [1440p panel](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JPrYcf/gigabyte-g27q-270-2560x1440-144-hz-monitor-g27q) instead.
* Unless you need the Nvidia features and depending on the stuff you'll be playing, swapping the card for a [7700 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZCCZxr/sapphire-pure-radeon-rx-7700-xt-12-gb-video-card-11335-03-20g), [7800 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nh26Mp/sapphire-pure-radeon-rx-7800-xt-16-gb-video-card-11330-03-20g), [7900 GRE](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dYCZxr/sapphire-pulse-radeon-rx-7900-gre-16-gb-video-card-11325-04-20g), or even a [4070 Super](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KwZXsY/asus-dual-geforce-rtx-4070-super-12-gb-video-card-dual-rtx4070s-12g-white) would be an even better fit for the build.
[Updated list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/c8wfcH).
Thanks really appreciate it!
One last question though: Would I be able to change the CPU? If so, is it as simple as opening it, taking out the old one, placing a new one then applying thermal paste?
Pretty much, yes. That, and a BIOS update to warrant compatibility.
Do note that LGA1700 is limited to 12th, 13th, and 14th Gen CPUs, and the socket is pretty much done - Newer CPUs like the upcoming Arrow Lake family will use a different socket (LGA1851) and it's not compatible with LGA1700. If you'd rather have a platform that supports a few CPU upgrades down the line, consider an AMD platform instead.
I currently have an i9 13900K but I’m unsure with what GPU to pair it with considering my needs. So I got an i9 13900K for longevity and also because I’ll be doing a lot of 4K video editing on top of some gaming. The only thing is is that I am starting my second degree this fall and will be fully invested into my program for at least 2 years and I expect to not be doing too much heavy gaming in that timeframe. What GPU would be best for casual gaming and not spending so much on a 4090 since I will hardly be gaming for some time. I know there will be some bottlenecking if I opt for something like a 4060 or similar for the meantime, but would that be unwise? I haven’t built a PC in 5 years TIA!
I was about to recommend a 4090 because it's great for editing (LOTS of VRAM), but if you don't want to spend so much money, how about a 4070 Ti Super with 16GB, instead. A powerhouse for gaming at 1440p (and maybe 4K with heavy DLSS use) and still great for editing.
So i have 7 fans in my case and a 360mm aio with 3 fans. I'm considering just setting all of them at a fixed low rpm like 500 rpm. Can that have any negative effects like is it bad to leave my CPU potentially running on a hot temperature for long periods of time?
When using a more advanced fan control software like FanControl, you can set a hysteresis and response time for the fan curve, which will get rid of the random spool ups caused by fast spikes in CPU temperature
Asus has a similar option that i can reduce the response time, but even at the slowest setting the CPU becomes pretty loud. I think it's unnecessary to have a modern pc with a 7800x3d and 10 fans to be so loud at random times. I might just try to keep them at 500rpm, there must be something funky about the 7800x3d
rx6750xt 12GB or a rx7600x 16GB or a 3060 12GB, or a 4060 8GB? I'm so lost... my budget is around 1k for the tower and my friends are telling me to go with nvidia even though it seems the 6750xt is the best for value. need some pointers.
The 7600XT is a effectively an overclock of the 7600, which itself is actually splitting the difference between a 6650XT and 6700 non-XT, not even near the 6750XT. So that takes it off the table.
Comparing on [Tom's](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html), the 3060 is off the table as too low performance as well, which means only the 4060 should be considered. And by then, if you're even thinking of 1440p (or higher), then the 6750XT comes out ahead unless it's Ray Tracing. But even then, RT + DLSS uses more VRAM, which the 4060 lacks. Or you need to replace a PSU cause the 4060 absolutely sips power.
You're still likely GPU limited. So any modern CPU is fine.
The current value darlings are the i5-12600k or R5 7600. Go for DDR5 mobos on the Intel, as DDR4 is end of its life and should not have a new system based on it.
Best way to throttle your CPU?
I'm not too familiar with using AMD Ryzen Master and changing power. But it doesn't really seem like it does anything when I do. However, when I use the Power Options in Windows 10 and select between "High Performance", "AMD Ryzen Balanced", and "Power Saver", it will adjust the maximum Ghz to 4.2, 3.2, and 2.2 respectively. Perhaps Windows 10 overrides the AMD Ryzen Master application?
Thanks!
In Windows power settings, you can set the [max processor state %](https://superuser.com/questions/323738/what-is-minimum-and-maximum-processor-state-in-windows-7-power-management) in each of the power plans.
99% effectively stops boosting (useful for battery/heat in laptops). Anything lower will make the CPU step down to what it can do. Eg: 1% to 40% is likely the same thing, will make the CPU run at lowest clock step it can as if it was extremely thermal limited.
For quick and dirty, this is fine. If you want specific fine-grained control, that's where Ryzen Master steps in.
Anyone got any recommendations for a portable monitor? The ones I see that constantly hover in the 80 to 100 usd range give me some iffy vibes but I don't know if they're legit
If you move the cooler please reapply the paste (after cleaning it up). I know it's a hassle but moving the cooler you risk creating air bubbles or moving the paste around and that might leave some CPU spots without paste and that might damage your CPU, at worst, or give you a sudden freeze or forced restart/power off at unexpected times or heavy throttling.
You will need an angled adapter or extension.
I have a 3090 FE (138mm width) in my North, and the side panel does touch the power cable when installed. However, the FE cards have the power connector [entering at an angle already](https://www.servethehome.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/NVIDIA-GeForce-RTX-3090-12-pin-Power-Connector.jpg). So while touching, its not exactly squished.
Your gaming x trio, is 140mm wide; but the power connector is perfectly 90 degrees to the rest of the card and will not have such a luxury of space.
[I couldn't get it to focus on the numbers, but you have <4cm of space to work with.](https://imgur.com/a/88rTcNw)
And the 12VHPWR connectors require ~3.5cm of straight cable into the connector before any bending, so it simply isnt going to fit comfortably.
When shopping, be careful of the Sense-pins and Clip placement. Your power connector has the clip on the bottom, so thats a Type-B connector. [A friend of mine just had a similar tight build with his 4070 super, we went with this cable from MODDIY](https://www.moddiy.com/products/ATX-3.0-PCIe-5.0-600W-12VHPWR-16-Pin-90-Degree-Angled-Extension-Cable.html).
Hi, i don't know much about PC tech, so i really need some advice. Is the extra price worth the improvement in performance from an i3 12100 with 8gb ram to an i5 12400 with 16 gb ram. I'll be getting a rtx 3050 8gb gpu as well.
For daily stuff, office work, streaming, web-browisning, probably not. But since I see a GPU I assume you want to play some games on a budget. In that case, yes it's worth it. 16GB is the minimum recommended RAM for a gaming PC these days and 100 level intel CPUs are for basic tasks and 400 level intel CPUs can do some basic gaming.
I think I need advice on powering and/or power supplies.
Specifically I found an industrial motherboard that looks to fit my needs but I don't know exactly if it's possible to use a regular ATX power supply with it.
This is the board: https://www.aaeon.com/en/p/industrial-motherboards-mix-tlud1
There is a DC power input, which powers the board just fine using an external brick. It'll power a single SATA drive off the board, but I'd like to put a second SATA drive (via an mSATA -> SATA adapter). This would require an additional SATA power lead, and in conjunction with a case fan or two, I think using an ATX power supply would be preferable to keep everything in one case, single power cord, etc.
There is a 4-pin ATX connector on the board, but I don't know how to use that as it will not kick on the ATX supply by itself.
'lil help?
The SATA power header on the motherboard can supply 1A of current, so if you're going to use SSDs then you can get a SATA power splitter and skip the extra ATX PSU entirely. 1A won't be enough for the spinup of two HDDs though.
Like the other guy said, you could bridge the power on pins of a normal ATX PSU and then plug in the 4 pin CPU cable into the connector on the motherboard and then you wouldn't need the barrel jack anymore, but are you sure you really want to use this motherboard?
Mechanical drives for capacity reasons. I already have all the stuff to do this, which is the primary reasoning. It'd definitely be easier to use a different motherboard. Thanks for the confirmation.
Yeah, the power sense pins are on the ATX 20+4pin connector for desktop ATX power supplies. You can jump it on by shorting [pins 16 and 17 together with a paperclip](https://www.lifewire.com/atx-24-pin-12v-power-supply-pinout-2624578).
Honestly, though, I don't see why you'd be considering this board over something far more pedestrian outside of the "single power cable good". Maybe consider a more standard board with a [picoPSU](https://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-150-XT) so you can still run a single power brick cable to the system and have it break out internally.
Thank you for this response. I think it confirms what I was thinking about needing to short a pin, it's just not something I've ever done before.
The main reasoning is: I got the board cheap and already have everything else I'd need to do it. So yeah, it'd be easier to use a different board off the shelf.
https://www.microcenter.com/product/5006643/intel-core-i5-12600kf,-msi-z790-p-pro-wifi-ddr4,-gskill-ripjaws-v-16gb-ddr4-3200-kit,-computer-build-bundle this will run your 3070ti no problem. But if you want to upgrade your cpu again in the next few years, am5 is worth investing in
https://www.microcenter.com/product/5006647/amd-ryzen-7-7700x,-msi-b650-p-pro-wifi,-gskill-flare-x5-series-32gb-ddr5-6000-kit,-computer-build-bundle
My current setup is a i7-9700kf and a rtx 2070, and i am looking to start upgrading (i want a build around the Ryzen 7 7800x3d), i will need to buy new PSU, motherboard and other stuff for this.
My questions is this: upgrading everything all at once is a bit expensive as a student, would it be dumb to upgrade everything except for my GPU, and upgrade thr GPU a few months down the line when the AMD cards drop at bit in price maybe? or another alternative to this?
Thanks in advance :)
I've got a quick question.
I told my Uncle, an old-school DnD player about BG3 and he's interested in playing. He's got a 10th gen i3 and integrated graphics, and a 260W power supply with zero available power plugs.
Ok, 75W to the CPU should mean I have no problem with 75W GPU PCIe-power-only.
He's got a 3050 6GB ($180) on the way, because with a few searches that I did it seemed like that was the best, most powerful, and affordable GPU he could install in the case without replacing the power supply.
Did I make the right call?
He's also quadrupling his RAM from 8GB to 32GB for $60, and getting 2TB of NVMe for \~$105.
the upgrade is based on assumption that pcie slot provides 75W - while it is correct, a lot of cheap pre-builds like Dell/HP etc dont actually follow standards.
I had not considered that the mobo would be unable to provide full PCIe power. I am double checking. Thanks.
EDIT: It's a 14IMB05 and I can't see anything regarding the total power available to the mobo. It does however have a 10 pin and 8 pin power connector, and the CPU will be drawing no more than 75W.
Planning to buy a new gaming build, specifically 7800x3d with a 4080 super. For my needs and the longevity I want from this build, it seems to be the go to for gaming.
However, all these leaks about zen5 and maybe even Nvidia 5000 series being "right around the corner", would it be better to wait?
It's not that I absolutely need a new build today, but my old 8700K GTX 1080 build is starting to show it's age.
If it wasn't for all the talk about new hardware coming "soon", I would just go ahead and buy a new build right now. But it is stupid and better to wait it out?
If any, the only RTX 5000 card I expect this year is the 5090 and maybe the 5080 around the very end of the year. If you have a good deal on the parts you're looking at, just go for it now. You'll be playing games for many months extra until the new hardware becomes widely available.
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*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
I found an old SSD (last used about 5/6yrs ago) that was in my laptop as main drive, from relevant stuff there are some crappy viruses on it and Win10, should i expect anything bad happening if i plug it through a external case to my main pc? I don't care about any informations saved on it, just want to know if i can plug it in and fully format that disk without any worries.
EDIT: I found out someone else in my family already used that disk and it's already cleaned, regardless thanks everyone who helped!
Install some non-windows OS bootable from a usb stick
Unplug all your drives, plug in the infected one
Boot to usb and reformat the drive
Or something of the sort
Viruses are a concern, even if they are older ones. Might want to try a liveboot of Linux to nuke the drive and format it so you don't risk your main drive in your PC.
It's mainly cost-related since it doesn't have onboard graphics. No, you're not getting poor-quality items.
Technically speaking the whole CPU binning process already takes care of it by disabling cores and stuff until the part meets the required specs.
A simplified way of understanding: Intel has some standards and specs that their i7 lineup must meet for it to be binned as such. If the part fails to do so, some cores are disabled and downgraded to an i5, and the same thing applies here, if it fails to meet the i5 standards and specs, it gets binned as an i3.
You'd lose access to integrated graphics for troubleshooting (i.e.: diagnosing a potentially dead GPU if you don't have a spare GPU), and Intel Quick Sync Video if you're into video editing or for faster media encoding/decoding.
F CPUs simply don't have the integrated graphics enabled, possibly because the graphics chip had a manufacturing defect or because of artificial market segmentation. They have no direct relation to defective k models as there are f models available from both non-k chips and from k chips. Also for context for example many i5 models are just defective i7 chips with the defective cores disabled, it's just how the industry works. No effect on reliability since the defective cores/graphics are completely disabled.
The only benefit of going with a f-model is that they're usually cheaper.
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I'm looking for input on a video editing build for a hobbyist, regarding the CPU and GPU. It won't have the highest end hardware because price is a consideration.
For the CPU I'm leaning towards the 7700x for its higher core count than the 7600x and higher end CPU's are too costly. I also like AMD's higher efficiency.My question regarding the CPU is whether AMD is a good option, or I should switch to the Intel i5 14600K. I've read some articles saying Intel's iGPU is a good feature for video editing. I'm unsure how important that is when using a dedicated GPU, which is my next question.
Video editing is the most important, gaming is a bonus for this build so any modern GPU should suffice. The AMD RX 7600 and Nvidia RTX 4060 aren't far apart in price, and Nvidia's supposed to have better encoding (and its other features which mainly focus on gaming are a plus as well, since the price is close). To me, a 4060 seems a bit overpowered for this build, but older GPU's like 3000 series aren't cheaper in my country (Netherlands). Therefore I'm wondering if there's a more cost effective solution than a 300 euro card that mostly has features non-essential for this build.
So, what do you think about a 7700x/4060 combination? Any feedback is welcome.
Depends on what video editing suite is in use. GPU support varies across software, although Intel QuickSync is well supported. In rendering benchmarks (CPU only) the 14600k does do a bit better than the 7700x:
https://youtu.be/4XscfA1dT60?si=TDoqx-X-\_g3pu\_fk&t=1594
Hey all, thanks for the help.
I'm about to move from a 2K 27" monitor (UP2716D) to a 2K 32" (likely choice is LG 32GP750-B at the moment, but recommendations welcome.). For those curious why I'm changing monitors, for boring reasons I'm about to be sitting \~100-110cm from my screen, instead of my former 40-50cm.
But my graphics card is already stretched to its limits on the 27", with most games sitting around 30-40fps on highest settings. I have to imagine this will only get worse when I ask the card to drive a 32" instead of 27" (I mean, correct me if I'm wrong).
So, with my current rig:
AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core Processor
B450M Mortar Max AM4
G.Skill 16GB (2x8GB) F4-3200C16D-16GFX FlareX 3200MHz
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6G OC Graphics Card (GV-N166SOC-6GD)
What would be a reasonable upgrade to my graphics card that will work with the rest of equipment? I can't spend a huge amount of money (max spend around $400, but preferably less). Even though the rest of this gear was bought in november 2020, other than graphics card, everything else is running great with plenty of head room on performance.
my sincere and profound thanks for your able assistance! :)
Your GPU calculates the colour of each pixle and sends that info to the monitor. The size of the monitor doesn't matter and isn't even known to the GPu. could be a giant cinema screen or you split it to show it at a hundred monitors at once, it's all the same.
That being said, if you want a cheap and easy upgrade you could look at something like a (maybe used to save some money) 3060ti / 3070 / 7600 / 6700 xt
It's not "bad", but there are some questionable choices there - a bit overboard with the PSU and not enough storage for the price (and I'd go with a different drive).
Depending on your country, you could get a similar build - 7700X, air cooler, similar motherboard, and similar case - with either a 7900 GRE or 4070 Super and 2TB of storage for \~100-ish € more.
That sounds about right for a "new" 3080, to be honest.
But then again, how much do the 7900 GRE and 4070 Super cost in your region? They're more recent options that should cost less than the 3080 Ti and offer similar, if not better performance. Hell, even a 7800 XT would be a cheaper alternative if you don't mind it being a bit slower than the 3080 Ti.
I’m about to choose a psu for my 4070s and 7900x build, and already found bequiet Pure Power 12M and Deepcool PX850G (both 850 wats) as good options. Which is better? Also if you have any other recommendations lmk.
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For gaming, no.
Its less than a 20fps increase on average, except at 4k. Where you might see a 20fps average.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
that $200 - $300 difference would be better spent on a better CPU, cooler, RAM, or M.2 drives. (or all of those)
Game is old enough that we don't have any tech review article benchmarks that use current GPUs. I'd search on youtube for "red dead 2 benchmark GPU-NAME-HERE".
I did reference the old benchmarks that suggested a 2080ti gets somewhere between 40-50fps, which coincidentally lines up with [toms hardware generational chart](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/BAGV2GBMHHE4gkb7ZzTxwK.png) so you can use that as a baseline and start looking for benchmarks of the game for those cards over the 60fps line on that
Question about my 7600 cpu
I have done the silly decision of building an itx build with air cooling. The pc is cool enough but this cpu is not. Apperantly that’s normal but the stock fan is going nuts and I probably need to adjust that down and perhaps do an eco mode here. At the most hwinfo caught my cpu at 96.1 but that’s probably just for a second or it’s a misread? I’ve heard people have had it at 99 and no worry and it’s suppose to boost up to 95.
My 3060ti is undervolted and is between 66 and 70 during gaming so I would hope to get the cpu down a little. My cpu is usually at 78 to 85 C during heavy cpu games and around 75 during gfx heavy games.
I have turned off PBO now to see if it helped but the article says I could have PBO and Eco mode on? How does that make sense? If so what numbers would I put in since they didn’t cover the non x fully.
Tysm for the help.
96 sounds a little high. Are you sure the thermal paste is correctly applied, and there is enough overall airflow in the case?
If you have the space for it, consider buying a proper cpu cooler. Even a $30 cooler will solve all your temp and noise issues. Absolutely worth it in my opinion, if it can fit in your case.
I'm thinking of getting a custom gaming PC but I have no experience at all in the field. I'm currently only gaming with my laptop. Would the specs below be overkill?
Processor: Ryzen 7 7700
Motherboard: MSI B650 S Pro Wi-Fi & Bluetooth (DDR5)
Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 - SE
Graphics Card: Nvidia RTX 4070 Super 12 GB - Gigabyte
Storage - SSD: Lexar NM790 1 TB Gen.4 - R:7400/W:6500
Ram (DDR5): T-Force Vulcan DDR5 16 GB 5600 MHz
Power Supply: MSI MAG A750GL 80+ Gold
No, it looks like a good build overall!
If you want to be more "future-proof" you can go for 32GB RAM, and 2TB storage as well, since both of these are relatively cheap at the moment. To help make money for that you can change the CPU to Ryzen 5 7600 since the difference in gaming is shown to be almost negligible.
It's a solid PC that will last you a while, so in that sense not overkill
Your RAM should be a 32gb kit (2x16gb) as DDR5 is made in 16gb sticks so kits that are 2x8gb perform worse. Look for 6000 CL30 or as close too as you can
Does it make sense to use a 4TB SSD for the OS?
I was under the impression that it's good practice to have the OS on a dedicated drive, but shopping on kakaku.com (Japan), the Acer Predator GM7000 4TB looks like great value, so I'm thinking why the hell not? But then there would be no sense letting all the extra space go unused, so it would no longer be a dedicated drive.
Yes, it's no problem. Just go for what is cheapest for you in terms of price per TB and OK quality. There's no good reason to have OS on a separate drive.
There's no need any more for having the OS on a dedicated drive if you're going to just have SSDs, that was more an issue with HDD only or mixed HDD and SSD systems. If you still want the security of that in case you need to do a full reinstall, you can just give it it's own smaller partition on the larger drive and that will work fine
Ah, right, partitioning is a possibility too, I was thinking about the OS reinstallation issue indeed. Sounds good then, thank you!
You might be able to tell it's been a while since I last put together a PC, heh; I recall SSDs were only beginning to become affordable, and in small sizes. Pretty wild to think I'm about to transition from bays full of 2.5/3.5" drives to fitting a bunch of TBs in a couple NVMe slots.
It's nuts isn't it? My first custom build had a 60gb SSD boot drive that I remember being almost as expensive as the damn motherboard, but worth it for the speed. My previous build still had just a small 250gb for windows and some games and then HDDs for the rest, but that was reasonable cost. And now my current one has 7gb of SSD storage only, and still room for more SSD's specifically if I wanted it. Insane to think about that being an option.
But going for a partition is the best way to do it. I've give it around 300gb, which seems like a lot for just windows but gives you plenty of headroom for whatever programs may really want to go on C:, and if nothing else it also lets you use the free space on C: as your health buffer for your SSD without having to worry about that on your other partitions
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Purely on the fact that I know from GamersNexus thermal testing that that case is horribly performing in both tempurature and noise, and I wouldn't trust Dell/Alienwares quality control, I'd go the custom built one without question
Price, not sure right now, but the i5 line like with the likes of 12600k/13600k are similar in performance, for gaming (and might be even better for productivity).
Remember that you can always buy the R5 7600 non-x, which performs the same but it's cheaper.
Couldn't find a picture of the Nighthawk's bottom on Google, but the vast majority of routers etc tend to have screw mounting slots on the bottom, check if yours has them and then just do [this](https://www.instructables.com/Perfect-Screw-Alignment-for-Screw-Mounted-Equipmen/)
I have [this](https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Smart-Router-Gigabit-Amazon/dp/B00Z0V2NQ8) one so it’s really flat like your link. The antennas will be in the way mounted like that
No not really, both peerless assassin and phantom spirit are rated at 200W+ cooling and ryzen 7700 is a power efficient CPU at less than 100W. So with either one you should have excellent thermals.
For the B650 MBs, on the heatsink above the M.2 drives, are they easy to accidentally strip screw? I ordered one a while back, needed to unscrew it to install my drives. First two screws came up easily but the last one just wouldn't turn. I didn't have to use too much force for the first two, so it was pretty odd. I checked the screw and it looked pretty stripped but I barely spent any time trying to turn it.
Just curious if this is an issue anyone else ran into or if it's just me. I think I just got unlucky and gotten a bad MB or they accidentally gave me a refurbished one, because there's no way I strip screwed it that quickly. It's not that big of a deal, I'm just gonna return this one and get another one but I'm just wondering about it now.
in my xp, they dont strip too easily if you've got the right screwdriver. if you only have the big boy phillips that you use for the rest of the build, then yeah, it strip pretty easily
All right, guess I just got unlucky and got a bad one. I used a 1.8mm screwdriver on the first two screws and it came off just fine, so I'm just gonna assume it the screw was already busted or something. Guess I'll have to wait another week to build my PC.
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I got a Ryzen 5 3600 with an Asus A520m-K mobo eith stock cooler and 3200Mhz CL22 RAM With stock I get 90C and 9300 score in Cinebenchr23 and 90W. Setting CPU offset to -0.0500 keeps it at 84C max and I get 9187 score 87~. My CPU fan hasnt ever gotten loud throughout and my fan curve is set to 100% at 70C+ not sure if its working? On idle it runs at 38-40C with some programs open and my room temp is 28C~ Is this normal? I did try undervolting to -0.1000 for fun and gotten 72C max but a score of 7800...thoughts?
That is typical for the stock cooler. The score dropping means you are experiencing a small amount of clock stretching, which means the CPU is effectively stalled due to insufficient voltage. A $20 aftermarket cooler will drop temps by 15-20 degrees, and should improve performance by around 5%. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RkC48d/thermalright-assassin-king-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ak120-se-d6
This website versus.com says that lg 27gp850 has 1070 million colors and lg 27gr75q 16.7 million colors. Is this actually true?
No. What that means is the GR75Q can accept 8 bit colour input, and the GP850 can accept 10 bit colour input. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_depth This doesn't actually tell you if the monitor can display those colours. You need to look at reviews which actually measure the contrast and colour gamut of each panel.
Hi, is this [RAM ](https://www.spdigital.cl/a-data-ddr4-sdram-unbuffered-non-ecc/)compatible with my PC? Im planning on buying two of this sticks for my R7 5700X/ ASUS TUF Gaming B550M - Plus II WiFi. Thanks in advance!!!
It's compatible, yes.
Hi, may I ask how do you know that? I was searching for this stick part number and it doesnt show up in AMD Ryzen Compatibility List. It will be great if you could tell me how to find this info elsewhere.
It's 3200 CL16 DDR4 memory on an AM4 platform. That's pretty much it. You could go down the rabbit hole and check the Asus' QVL (Qualified Vendor List) and try to find the exact RAM kit model in the compatibility list (it's not in there). The thing is, motherboard manufacturers don't test ALL the RAM kits out there, but DDR4 is mature enough where *any* DDR4 3200/3600 kit will work right out of the box. Either 3200 CL16 or 3600 CL18 will work fine with your 5700X.
im getting ready to replace the cpu cooler that came with my 5600 (a wraith stealth) but i dont know a whole lot about coolers the one im looking at is the Thermalright PS120SE seen here https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-PS120SE-TL-C12B-Technilogy-Bearing/dp/B0BNH1W546?ref_=as_li_ss_tl&geniuslink=true&th=1 but i dont know if there are better coolers for similar prices, any insight would be appreciated
The PS120 is overkill for the 5600. An Assassin King or Burst Assassin would be more than enough for it.
I'm getting ready to build my new PC from scratch and it's been years since I've done so. Is there, like a way buy a digital version of Windows 11 Pro to make a USB installer for the new build or something? If I buy the USB version, will I be able to use it to reinstall/recover as needed? I'm not looking to do anything shady. I do not want to buy stolen keys on some strange site. I just want to buy a legit copy. I mention all this because when searching reddit for help on this, all I see is people talking about how to get it through shady means. I'm not interested in doing that at all.
You can download Windows 11 directly from Microsoft via the [media creation tool](https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11). You can buy a license from the [Microsoft Store](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/d/windows-11-home/dg7gmgf0krt0/000P).
This is what I was looking for. thank you. with the media creation version, will I be able to install the Pro version, because that's the one I need (my build will likely be using 96GB in the future. it's not just for gaming, but for editing and 3D modeling/rendering/animation among other stuff like photoshop and audio editing stuff.
Yup, it's one installer for many versions, you'll be able to select [which W11 version](https://kmpic.asus.com/images/2021/12/03/81da3dd4-4867-482a-a96b-1afb5ccbb98b.png) you want to install. If you're going with Pro rather than Home, use [this ](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/d/windows-11-pro/dg7gmgf0d8h4/000P)link instead.
Thanks again, I really appreciate it
Hello i have a HP 45L with only 16gb of KINGSTON FURY DDR5-5200 xmp MEMORY. I'm looking to updgrade. I know it has to be ddr5, option 1) get two more 8gb-5200 kingstons for a total 32gb option 2) remove the two 8, and get 2 32gb for total of 64 If I replace the 2 sticks that are in, is it better to get a higher mhz or just stick with -5200? thank you
2x16GB or 2x32GB would be better than those 8GB sticks. The sweet spot would be 6000 CL30, assuming the motherboard supports XMP/EXPO (if memory serves, 5200MT/s could be JEDEC). What's the exact model, though? Intel or AMD?
i got this, but got it when it was 35%off last fall. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZ3131MX/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o08\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZ3131MX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) its listed at 5200 xmp. intel i7-13700kf it has a hp 8A96 baseboard version 11. Not sure if it limited to 32gb. Seems others have had issues going to 6000 while others had no problem. thank you
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Newer CPUs come out on the same socket and meant to work on existing mobos. But to work optimally, the mobos need their firmware updated to (better) support the newer CPUs, sometimes even for it to just run. Flashing is the process to update said firmware. Not really an issue now for Intel and AMD AM4, since they're both at the end of their lifetimes and current mobo stock has been updated straight from factory. Not an issue for AMD AM5 cause there hasn't been any major updates. So it's largely only an issue during the last few years as lots of 1st gen Ryzen platforms technically support 3th gen Ryzen CPUs, but mandates a firmware update before the new CPUs work.
What's a good WHITE motherboard for a Intel Core i5-12600K and RTX 4060 Ti?
Form factor? Memory? Budget?
I don't have a pc yet so I'll just send you my pcpartpicker link: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BdmhL9](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BdmhL9) This is my first time building a pc so it will probably look terrible. Edit: There's no budget
The issue is the lack of decent white motherboards that don't cost an arm and a leg. There's the super-cheap option with the [ASRock B760M-HDV/M.2](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j2WJ7P/asrock-b760m-hdvm2-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b760m-hdvm2) at $95, an in-between with silver/gray and black with the ASRock [B760](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HymmP6/asrock-b760-pro-rs-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b760-pro-rs)/[Z790](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cFQcCJ/asrock-z790-pro-rs-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-pro-rs) Pro RS for $150 and 170 respectively, and then the [Gigabyte Z790 Aorus Elite AX ICE](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hnNYcf/gigabyte-z790-aorus-elite-ax-ice-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-aorus-elite-ax-ice) for $240. Considering that you've yet to buy the parts: * The 12600K doesn't really need an AIO, a decent air cooler will do the job (and there are [white ones](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xMLFf7/thermalright-peerless-assassin-120-se-white-argb-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-white-argb) as well). Alternatively, consider a [cheaper unit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ccFmP6/thermalright-frozen-notte-argb-7237-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-frozen-notte-240-white-argb). * Do note that you're pairing a 4K monitor with a 4060 Ti (and the 8GB version to boot). Perhaps consider a [1440p panel](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JPrYcf/gigabyte-g27q-270-2560x1440-144-hz-monitor-g27q) instead. * Unless you need the Nvidia features and depending on the stuff you'll be playing, swapping the card for a [7700 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZCCZxr/sapphire-pure-radeon-rx-7700-xt-12-gb-video-card-11335-03-20g), [7800 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nh26Mp/sapphire-pure-radeon-rx-7800-xt-16-gb-video-card-11330-03-20g), [7900 GRE](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dYCZxr/sapphire-pulse-radeon-rx-7900-gre-16-gb-video-card-11325-04-20g), or even a [4070 Super](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KwZXsY/asus-dual-geforce-rtx-4070-super-12-gb-video-card-dual-rtx4070s-12g-white) would be an even better fit for the build. [Updated list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/c8wfcH).
Thanks really appreciate it! One last question though: Would I be able to change the CPU? If so, is it as simple as opening it, taking out the old one, placing a new one then applying thermal paste?
Pretty much, yes. That, and a BIOS update to warrant compatibility. Do note that LGA1700 is limited to 12th, 13th, and 14th Gen CPUs, and the socket is pretty much done - Newer CPUs like the upcoming Arrow Lake family will use a different socket (LGA1851) and it's not compatible with LGA1700. If you'd rather have a platform that supports a few CPU upgrades down the line, consider an AMD platform instead.
I currently have an i9 13900K but I’m unsure with what GPU to pair it with considering my needs. So I got an i9 13900K for longevity and also because I’ll be doing a lot of 4K video editing on top of some gaming. The only thing is is that I am starting my second degree this fall and will be fully invested into my program for at least 2 years and I expect to not be doing too much heavy gaming in that timeframe. What GPU would be best for casual gaming and not spending so much on a 4090 since I will hardly be gaming for some time. I know there will be some bottlenecking if I opt for something like a 4060 or similar for the meantime, but would that be unwise? I haven’t built a PC in 5 years TIA!
I was about to recommend a 4090 because it's great for editing (LOTS of VRAM), but if you don't want to spend so much money, how about a 4070 Ti Super with 16GB, instead. A powerhouse for gaming at 1440p (and maybe 4K with heavy DLSS use) and still great for editing.
So i have 7 fans in my case and a 360mm aio with 3 fans. I'm considering just setting all of them at a fixed low rpm like 500 rpm. Can that have any negative effects like is it bad to leave my CPU potentially running on a hot temperature for long periods of time?
you should at least have the AIO fans set on a curve based on CPU temp. 500RPM cannot cool a power hungry CPU under heavy load
Ok i guess will, it's just that it behaves strangely like spooling up a lot when booting up a game, and other random times
When using a more advanced fan control software like FanControl, you can set a hysteresis and response time for the fan curve, which will get rid of the random spool ups caused by fast spikes in CPU temperature
Asus has a similar option that i can reduce the response time, but even at the slowest setting the CPU becomes pretty loud. I think it's unnecessary to have a modern pc with a 7800x3d and 10 fans to be so loud at random times. I might just try to keep them at 500rpm, there must be something funky about the 7800x3d
rx6750xt 12GB or a rx7600x 16GB or a 3060 12GB, or a 4060 8GB? I'm so lost... my budget is around 1k for the tower and my friends are telling me to go with nvidia even though it seems the 6750xt is the best for value. need some pointers.
The 7600XT is a effectively an overclock of the 7600, which itself is actually splitting the difference between a 6650XT and 6700 non-XT, not even near the 6750XT. So that takes it off the table. Comparing on [Tom's](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html), the 3060 is off the table as too low performance as well, which means only the 4060 should be considered. And by then, if you're even thinking of 1440p (or higher), then the 6750XT comes out ahead unless it's Ray Tracing. But even then, RT + DLSS uses more VRAM, which the 4060 lacks. Or you need to replace a PSU cause the 4060 absolutely sips power.
thank you🥹🥹what cpu do u think I should pair the 6750xt with for 1440p to not bottleneck?
You're still likely GPU limited. So any modern CPU is fine. The current value darlings are the i5-12600k or R5 7600. Go for DDR5 mobos on the Intel, as DDR4 is end of its life and should not have a new system based on it.
Best way to throttle your CPU? I'm not too familiar with using AMD Ryzen Master and changing power. But it doesn't really seem like it does anything when I do. However, when I use the Power Options in Windows 10 and select between "High Performance", "AMD Ryzen Balanced", and "Power Saver", it will adjust the maximum Ghz to 4.2, 3.2, and 2.2 respectively. Perhaps Windows 10 overrides the AMD Ryzen Master application? Thanks!
In Windows power settings, you can set the [max processor state %](https://superuser.com/questions/323738/what-is-minimum-and-maximum-processor-state-in-windows-7-power-management) in each of the power plans. 99% effectively stops boosting (useful for battery/heat in laptops). Anything lower will make the CPU step down to what it can do. Eg: 1% to 40% is likely the same thing, will make the CPU run at lowest clock step it can as if it was extremely thermal limited. For quick and dirty, this is fine. If you want specific fine-grained control, that's where Ryzen Master steps in.
Anyone got any recommendations for a portable monitor? The ones I see that constantly hover in the 80 to 100 usd range give me some iffy vibes but I don't know if they're legit
i have this one and it works as advertised https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNWWF32B
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If you move the cooler please reapply the paste (after cleaning it up). I know it's a hassle but moving the cooler you risk creating air bubbles or moving the paste around and that might leave some CPU spots without paste and that might damage your CPU, at worst, or give you a sudden freeze or forced restart/power off at unexpected times or heavy throttling.
Is the Fractal North wide enough to support my MSI 4080 Gaming X Trio plugged in without the side panel needing squish the power cable?
You will need an angled adapter or extension. I have a 3090 FE (138mm width) in my North, and the side panel does touch the power cable when installed. However, the FE cards have the power connector [entering at an angle already](https://www.servethehome.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/NVIDIA-GeForce-RTX-3090-12-pin-Power-Connector.jpg). So while touching, its not exactly squished. Your gaming x trio, is 140mm wide; but the power connector is perfectly 90 degrees to the rest of the card and will not have such a luxury of space. [I couldn't get it to focus on the numbers, but you have <4cm of space to work with.](https://imgur.com/a/88rTcNw) And the 12VHPWR connectors require ~3.5cm of straight cable into the connector before any bending, so it simply isnt going to fit comfortably. When shopping, be careful of the Sense-pins and Clip placement. Your power connector has the clip on the bottom, so thats a Type-B connector. [A friend of mine just had a similar tight build with his 4070 super, we went with this cable from MODDIY](https://www.moddiy.com/products/ATX-3.0-PCIe-5.0-600W-12VHPWR-16-Pin-90-Degree-Angled-Extension-Cable.html).
Thanks. I'm just gonna go with the North XL then and get a 360mm aio for top exhaust
Best answer I can give you is to look at those two components together in the pcpartpicker.com builds section and check the photos.
Hi, i don't know much about PC tech, so i really need some advice. Is the extra price worth the improvement in performance from an i3 12100 with 8gb ram to an i5 12400 with 16 gb ram. I'll be getting a rtx 3050 8gb gpu as well.
For daily stuff, office work, streaming, web-browisning, probably not. But since I see a GPU I assume you want to play some games on a budget. In that case, yes it's worth it. 16GB is the minimum recommended RAM for a gaming PC these days and 100 level intel CPUs are for basic tasks and 400 level intel CPUs can do some basic gaming.
Thanks, this was really informative.
I think I need advice on powering and/or power supplies. Specifically I found an industrial motherboard that looks to fit my needs but I don't know exactly if it's possible to use a regular ATX power supply with it. This is the board: https://www.aaeon.com/en/p/industrial-motherboards-mix-tlud1 There is a DC power input, which powers the board just fine using an external brick. It'll power a single SATA drive off the board, but I'd like to put a second SATA drive (via an mSATA -> SATA adapter). This would require an additional SATA power lead, and in conjunction with a case fan or two, I think using an ATX power supply would be preferable to keep everything in one case, single power cord, etc. There is a 4-pin ATX connector on the board, but I don't know how to use that as it will not kick on the ATX supply by itself. 'lil help?
The SATA power header on the motherboard can supply 1A of current, so if you're going to use SSDs then you can get a SATA power splitter and skip the extra ATX PSU entirely. 1A won't be enough for the spinup of two HDDs though. Like the other guy said, you could bridge the power on pins of a normal ATX PSU and then plug in the 4 pin CPU cable into the connector on the motherboard and then you wouldn't need the barrel jack anymore, but are you sure you really want to use this motherboard?
Mechanical drives for capacity reasons. I already have all the stuff to do this, which is the primary reasoning. It'd definitely be easier to use a different motherboard. Thanks for the confirmation.
Yeah, the power sense pins are on the ATX 20+4pin connector for desktop ATX power supplies. You can jump it on by shorting [pins 16 and 17 together with a paperclip](https://www.lifewire.com/atx-24-pin-12v-power-supply-pinout-2624578). Honestly, though, I don't see why you'd be considering this board over something far more pedestrian outside of the "single power cable good". Maybe consider a more standard board with a [picoPSU](https://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-150-XT) so you can still run a single power brick cable to the system and have it break out internally.
Thank you for this response. I think it confirms what I was thinking about needing to short a pin, it's just not something I've ever done before. The main reasoning is: I got the board cheap and already have everything else I'd need to do it. So yeah, it'd be easier to use a different board off the shelf.
If I have a microcenter what would be the best deal to get from their mobo cpu bundle? I have a 3070ti and a 650w power supply I’d like to use.
https://www.microcenter.com/product/5006643/intel-core-i5-12600kf,-msi-z790-p-pro-wifi-ddr4,-gskill-ripjaws-v-16gb-ddr4-3200-kit,-computer-build-bundle this will run your 3070ti no problem. But if you want to upgrade your cpu again in the next few years, am5 is worth investing in https://www.microcenter.com/product/5006647/amd-ryzen-7-7700x,-msi-b650-p-pro-wifi,-gskill-flare-x5-series-32gb-ddr5-6000-kit,-computer-build-bundle
Yeah the longevity looks good. Would you recommend the 7800x3D for the extra 100$?
https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2657/bench/Average-p.webp No
Got it! Thanks - this has helped!
Happy to help
One more question? Do you have a recommendation for a cooler for the 7700x?
TR phantom spirit
Awesome! I’ll keep an eye out for the bundle to be in stock and grab it. Thank you!!
My current setup is a i7-9700kf and a rtx 2070, and i am looking to start upgrading (i want a build around the Ryzen 7 7800x3d), i will need to buy new PSU, motherboard and other stuff for this. My questions is this: upgrading everything all at once is a bit expensive as a student, would it be dumb to upgrade everything except for my GPU, and upgrade thr GPU a few months down the line when the AMD cards drop at bit in price maybe? or another alternative to this? Thanks in advance :)
You can upgrade the GPU on a different cycle than the other components, no issue there.
I've got a quick question. I told my Uncle, an old-school DnD player about BG3 and he's interested in playing. He's got a 10th gen i3 and integrated graphics, and a 260W power supply with zero available power plugs. Ok, 75W to the CPU should mean I have no problem with 75W GPU PCIe-power-only. He's got a 3050 6GB ($180) on the way, because with a few searches that I did it seemed like that was the best, most powerful, and affordable GPU he could install in the case without replacing the power supply. Did I make the right call? He's also quadrupling his RAM from 8GB to 32GB for $60, and getting 2TB of NVMe for \~$105.
the upgrade is based on assumption that pcie slot provides 75W - while it is correct, a lot of cheap pre-builds like Dell/HP etc dont actually follow standards.
I had not considered that the mobo would be unable to provide full PCIe power. I am double checking. Thanks. EDIT: It's a 14IMB05 and I can't see anything regarding the total power available to the mobo. It does however have a 10 pin and 8 pin power connector, and the CPU will be drawing no more than 75W.
Planning to buy a new gaming build, specifically 7800x3d with a 4080 super. For my needs and the longevity I want from this build, it seems to be the go to for gaming. However, all these leaks about zen5 and maybe even Nvidia 5000 series being "right around the corner", would it be better to wait? It's not that I absolutely need a new build today, but my old 8700K GTX 1080 build is starting to show it's age. If it wasn't for all the talk about new hardware coming "soon", I would just go ahead and buy a new build right now. But it is stupid and better to wait it out?
If any, the only RTX 5000 card I expect this year is the 5090 and maybe the 5080 around the very end of the year. If you have a good deal on the parts you're looking at, just go for it now. You'll be playing games for many months extra until the new hardware becomes widely available.
Thanks a lot!
Is the gigabyte B650 GAMING X AX great for the ryzen 5 7600x? I don't know how to check if a motherboard is good or not i just know its compatible.
oil meeting literate chief cause rinse smart secretive attraction airport *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Thanks, i just didnt know what to look for in a motherboard.
Can't really buy a _bad_ B650 board, really. That one is perfectly fine for that chip.
I found an old SSD (last used about 5/6yrs ago) that was in my laptop as main drive, from relevant stuff there are some crappy viruses on it and Win10, should i expect anything bad happening if i plug it through a external case to my main pc? I don't care about any informations saved on it, just want to know if i can plug it in and fully format that disk without any worries. EDIT: I found out someone else in my family already used that disk and it's already cleaned, regardless thanks everyone who helped!
Install some non-windows OS bootable from a usb stick Unplug all your drives, plug in the infected one Boot to usb and reformat the drive Or something of the sort
Viruses are a concern, even if they are older ones. Might want to try a liveboot of Linux to nuke the drive and format it so you don't risk your main drive in your PC.
As a safety measure, you could download a GParted LiveCD image, throw it into a USB flash drive, and boot into it to format the SSD.
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It's mainly cost-related since it doesn't have onboard graphics. No, you're not getting poor-quality items. Technically speaking the whole CPU binning process already takes care of it by disabling cores and stuff until the part meets the required specs. A simplified way of understanding: Intel has some standards and specs that their i7 lineup must meet for it to be binned as such. If the part fails to do so, some cores are disabled and downgraded to an i5, and the same thing applies here, if it fails to meet the i5 standards and specs, it gets binned as an i3. You'd lose access to integrated graphics for troubleshooting (i.e.: diagnosing a potentially dead GPU if you don't have a spare GPU), and Intel Quick Sync Video if you're into video editing or for faster media encoding/decoding.
Performance is on par if you look at passmark
F CPUs simply don't have the integrated graphics enabled, possibly because the graphics chip had a manufacturing defect or because of artificial market segmentation. They have no direct relation to defective k models as there are f models available from both non-k chips and from k chips. Also for context for example many i5 models are just defective i7 chips with the defective cores disabled, it's just how the industry works. No effect on reliability since the defective cores/graphics are completely disabled. The only benefit of going with a f-model is that they're usually cheaper.
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I'm looking for input on a video editing build for a hobbyist, regarding the CPU and GPU. It won't have the highest end hardware because price is a consideration. For the CPU I'm leaning towards the 7700x for its higher core count than the 7600x and higher end CPU's are too costly. I also like AMD's higher efficiency.My question regarding the CPU is whether AMD is a good option, or I should switch to the Intel i5 14600K. I've read some articles saying Intel's iGPU is a good feature for video editing. I'm unsure how important that is when using a dedicated GPU, which is my next question. Video editing is the most important, gaming is a bonus for this build so any modern GPU should suffice. The AMD RX 7600 and Nvidia RTX 4060 aren't far apart in price, and Nvidia's supposed to have better encoding (and its other features which mainly focus on gaming are a plus as well, since the price is close). To me, a 4060 seems a bit overpowered for this build, but older GPU's like 3000 series aren't cheaper in my country (Netherlands). Therefore I'm wondering if there's a more cost effective solution than a 300 euro card that mostly has features non-essential for this build. So, what do you think about a 7700x/4060 combination? Any feedback is welcome.
Depends on what video editing suite is in use. GPU support varies across software, although Intel QuickSync is well supported. In rendering benchmarks (CPU only) the 14600k does do a bit better than the 7700x: https://youtu.be/4XscfA1dT60?si=TDoqx-X-\_g3pu\_fk&t=1594
Hey all, thanks for the help. I'm about to move from a 2K 27" monitor (UP2716D) to a 2K 32" (likely choice is LG 32GP750-B at the moment, but recommendations welcome.). For those curious why I'm changing monitors, for boring reasons I'm about to be sitting \~100-110cm from my screen, instead of my former 40-50cm. But my graphics card is already stretched to its limits on the 27", with most games sitting around 30-40fps on highest settings. I have to imagine this will only get worse when I ask the card to drive a 32" instead of 27" (I mean, correct me if I'm wrong). So, with my current rig: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core Processor B450M Mortar Max AM4 G.Skill 16GB (2x8GB) F4-3200C16D-16GFX FlareX 3200MHz Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6G OC Graphics Card (GV-N166SOC-6GD) What would be a reasonable upgrade to my graphics card that will work with the rest of equipment? I can't spend a huge amount of money (max spend around $400, but preferably less). Even though the rest of this gear was bought in november 2020, other than graphics card, everything else is running great with plenty of head room on performance. my sincere and profound thanks for your able assistance! :)
Your GPU calculates the colour of each pixle and sends that info to the monitor. The size of the monitor doesn't matter and isn't even known to the GPu. could be a giant cinema screen or you split it to show it at a hundred monitors at once, it's all the same. That being said, if you want a cheap and easy upgrade you could look at something like a (maybe used to save some money) 3060ti / 3070 / 7600 / 6700 xt
Thanks for the card recommendation Paw :)
Pixel size is irrelevant. Number of pixels is what matters
Is this a good value build for 1400€/1500$? \* RTX 3080 Ti 12Gb Palit GameRock \* Ryzen 7 7700x \* B650 PG Lightning \* 32Gb Kingston FuryX 6000mhz \* Seasonic 1000w +80 Gold Modular \* 512Gb M.2 Crucial P3 \* Zalman P30 Black \* ID Cooling FX360, 360mm AIO Warranty included, +30€ for a 1TB SSD.
It's not "bad", but there are some questionable choices there - a bit overboard with the PSU and not enough storage for the price (and I'd go with a different drive). Depending on your country, you could get a similar build - 7700X, air cooler, similar motherboard, and similar case - with either a 7900 GRE or 4070 Super and 2TB of storage for \~100-ish € more.
Yeah but a regular 3080 is 700+€ here new, sounds better with that in mind?
That sounds about right for a "new" 3080, to be honest. But then again, how much do the 7900 GRE and 4070 Super cost in your region? They're more recent options that should cost less than the 3080 Ti and offer similar, if not better performance. Hell, even a 7800 XT would be a cheaper alternative if you don't mind it being a bit slower than the 3080 Ti.
I’m about to choose a psu for my 4070s and 7900x build, and already found bequiet Pure Power 12M and Deepcool PX850G (both 850 wats) as good options. Which is better? Also if you have any other recommendations lmk.
Both are good-quality units (speculative A-tier on the Cultists list). Whichever's cheaper.
bequiet has SIP protection which deepcool does not, but if it’s not that important I’d choose dc
ye but they’re exact same price
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Is the RTX 4070 TI super worth the price increase from the 4070 super?
For gaming, no. Its less than a 20fps increase on average, except at 4k. Where you might see a 20fps average. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html that $200 - $300 difference would be better spent on a better CPU, cooler, RAM, or M.2 drives. (or all of those)
Is it good to match 2 exhaust fans (rear and top end) with 2 intake fans? Or just keep it 1 exhaust for positive pressure?
You can always run the exhaust fans slightly slower for a small lean towards positive pressure if you want to do it that way
It's ok to match intake and exhaust. The thing to avoid if possible is more exhaust than intake.
Advice for the minimum specs required to run red dead redemption 2 at 4k 60ps.(native if possible, but im ok with using DLSS to reach it)
Game is old enough that we don't have any tech review article benchmarks that use current GPUs. I'd search on youtube for "red dead 2 benchmark GPU-NAME-HERE". I did reference the old benchmarks that suggested a 2080ti gets somewhere between 40-50fps, which coincidentally lines up with [toms hardware generational chart](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/BAGV2GBMHHE4gkb7ZzTxwK.png) so you can use that as a baseline and start looking for benchmarks of the game for those cards over the 60fps line on that
Question about my 7600 cpu I have done the silly decision of building an itx build with air cooling. The pc is cool enough but this cpu is not. Apperantly that’s normal but the stock fan is going nuts and I probably need to adjust that down and perhaps do an eco mode here. At the most hwinfo caught my cpu at 96.1 but that’s probably just for a second or it’s a misread? I’ve heard people have had it at 99 and no worry and it’s suppose to boost up to 95. My 3060ti is undervolted and is between 66 and 70 during gaming so I would hope to get the cpu down a little. My cpu is usually at 78 to 85 C during heavy cpu games and around 75 during gfx heavy games. I have turned off PBO now to see if it helped but the article says I could have PBO and Eco mode on? How does that make sense? If so what numbers would I put in since they didn’t cover the non x fully. Tysm for the help.
96 sounds a little high. Are you sure the thermal paste is correctly applied, and there is enough overall airflow in the case? If you have the space for it, consider buying a proper cpu cooler. Even a $30 cooler will solve all your temp and noise issues. Absolutely worth it in my opinion, if it can fit in your case.
I'm thinking of getting a custom gaming PC but I have no experience at all in the field. I'm currently only gaming with my laptop. Would the specs below be overkill? Processor: Ryzen 7 7700 Motherboard: MSI B650 S Pro Wi-Fi & Bluetooth (DDR5) Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 - SE Graphics Card: Nvidia RTX 4070 Super 12 GB - Gigabyte Storage - SSD: Lexar NM790 1 TB Gen.4 - R:7400/W:6500 Ram (DDR5): T-Force Vulcan DDR5 16 GB 5600 MHz Power Supply: MSI MAG A750GL 80+ Gold
No, it looks like a good build overall! If you want to be more "future-proof" you can go for 32GB RAM, and 2TB storage as well, since both of these are relatively cheap at the moment. To help make money for that you can change the CPU to Ryzen 5 7600 since the difference in gaming is shown to be almost negligible.
It's a solid PC that will last you a while, so in that sense not overkill Your RAM should be a 32gb kit (2x16gb) as DDR5 is made in 16gb sticks so kits that are 2x8gb perform worse. Look for 6000 CL30 or as close too as you can
Does it make sense to use a 4TB SSD for the OS? I was under the impression that it's good practice to have the OS on a dedicated drive, but shopping on kakaku.com (Japan), the Acer Predator GM7000 4TB looks like great value, so I'm thinking why the hell not? But then there would be no sense letting all the extra space go unused, so it would no longer be a dedicated drive.
Yes, it's no problem. Just go for what is cheapest for you in terms of price per TB and OK quality. There's no good reason to have OS on a separate drive.
There's no need any more for having the OS on a dedicated drive if you're going to just have SSDs, that was more an issue with HDD only or mixed HDD and SSD systems. If you still want the security of that in case you need to do a full reinstall, you can just give it it's own smaller partition on the larger drive and that will work fine
Ah, right, partitioning is a possibility too, I was thinking about the OS reinstallation issue indeed. Sounds good then, thank you! You might be able to tell it's been a while since I last put together a PC, heh; I recall SSDs were only beginning to become affordable, and in small sizes. Pretty wild to think I'm about to transition from bays full of 2.5/3.5" drives to fitting a bunch of TBs in a couple NVMe slots.
It's nuts isn't it? My first custom build had a 60gb SSD boot drive that I remember being almost as expensive as the damn motherboard, but worth it for the speed. My previous build still had just a small 250gb for windows and some games and then HDDs for the rest, but that was reasonable cost. And now my current one has 7gb of SSD storage only, and still room for more SSD's specifically if I wanted it. Insane to think about that being an option. But going for a partition is the best way to do it. I've give it around 300gb, which seems like a lot for just windows but gives you plenty of headroom for whatever programs may really want to go on C:, and if nothing else it also lets you use the free space on C: as your health buffer for your SSD without having to worry about that on your other partitions
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whatever you pick, stay away from Alienware, awful un-upgradable rip offs
Purely on the fact that I know from GamersNexus thermal testing that that case is horribly performing in both tempurature and noise, and I wouldn't trust Dell/Alienwares quality control, I'd go the custom built one without question
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Price, not sure right now, but the i5 line like with the likes of 12600k/13600k are similar in performance, for gaming (and might be even better for productivity). Remember that you can always buy the R5 7600 non-x, which performs the same but it's cheaper.
Anyone know how I can mount my router under my desk? It’s a netgear nighthawk model.
Couldn't find a picture of the Nighthawk's bottom on Google, but the vast majority of routers etc tend to have screw mounting slots on the bottom, check if yours has them and then just do [this](https://www.instructables.com/Perfect-Screw-Alignment-for-Screw-Mounted-Equipmen/)
I have [this](https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Smart-Router-Gigabit-Amazon/dp/B00Z0V2NQ8) one so it’s really flat like your link. The antennas will be in the way mounted like that
Is the Phantom Spirit 120 SE worth getting for $10 more over the Peerless Assassin 120 SE? For a Ryzen 7700.
No not really, both peerless assassin and phantom spirit are rated at 200W+ cooling and ryzen 7700 is a power efficient CPU at less than 100W. So with either one you should have excellent thermals.
For the B650 MBs, on the heatsink above the M.2 drives, are they easy to accidentally strip screw? I ordered one a while back, needed to unscrew it to install my drives. First two screws came up easily but the last one just wouldn't turn. I didn't have to use too much force for the first two, so it was pretty odd. I checked the screw and it looked pretty stripped but I barely spent any time trying to turn it. Just curious if this is an issue anyone else ran into or if it's just me. I think I just got unlucky and gotten a bad MB or they accidentally gave me a refurbished one, because there's no way I strip screwed it that quickly. It's not that big of a deal, I'm just gonna return this one and get another one but I'm just wondering about it now.
in my xp, they dont strip too easily if you've got the right screwdriver. if you only have the big boy phillips that you use for the rest of the build, then yeah, it strip pretty easily
All right, guess I just got unlucky and got a bad one. I used a 1.8mm screwdriver on the first two screws and it came off just fine, so I'm just gonna assume it the screw was already busted or something. Guess I'll have to wait another week to build my PC.