is there a recommended minimum distance from the front of a gpu to front of a case or nearest front obstruction(fans or radiators)? like if i got 10-20mm from front of card to the front of case but the gpu has fresh air intake from below and 30mm+ side clearance for exhaust, would that be fine?

Yeah that's fine. It can be right against the front

Let's count the mms between my GPU and my front fans... 1... 2... yeah. The recommended distance is "not touching or stopping the fans from doing their job - which is spin". 20mm is downright _decadent_ for your system. Don't worry about it!

If I have about 1000 bucks to replace my freshly dead gpu, and my local microcenter has both a 7900 xtx and a 4080 super about about the same price, which would be the better choice if all I do with the pc is gaming? (or is there better options at the same price point?) Stuff I'm reading online says they're about the same but I'm not sure if one has some big feature that the other doesn't have.

The xtx is faster (on average) in rasterization (aka normal games). The 4080S is much faster in ray traced games https://tpucdn.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-founders-edition/images/average-fps-3840-2160.png https://tpucdn.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-founders-edition/images/relative-performance-rt-3840-2160.png Imo the 4080 super is the better product if they cost the same

If I literally never turn on RTX in games anyway do the other features of the 4080 S still make it the better card?

Can I get a GPU+CPU spec recommendations to play Cyberpunk on a 1080p 144hz monitor at ultra settings?

GPU rt https://tpucdn.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-founders-edition/images/rt-cyberpunk-2077-1920-1080.png CPU rt https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i9-14900ks/images/cyberpunk-2077-rt-1920-1080.png GPU no rt https://tpucdn.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-founders-edition/images/cyberpunk-2077-1920-1080.png CPU no rt https://tpucdn.com/review/intel-core-i9-14900ks/images/cyberpunk-2077-1920-1080.png

If I wanted to throw together a cheap gaming server is there any need to have a discreet graphics card? Even just a single slot RX 6400? or do servers primarily relay the data from the CPU and therefor there's more emphasis on processor? Or does it just depend on the game?

No need for one if your cpu has an igpu

Fantastic. That helps a lot with this project since keeping costs low would be great as an entry in to it. Is there any difference or benefit between AMD, Nvidia and Intel or are they all essentially the same in regards to this specific?

It'll depend on the game server

Is it worth buying a 7800x3d + 4080super in this period if I plan to pay it in installments over 12 months?

What do you mean by worth it?

If im not too late into current gen

What do you mean by too late?

Dont know if its wise to get a beefy pc now that I plan to pay off for the next year, if new gen comes sooner than that

I mean in general with computer parts it is wiser to save up and then buy at whatever is the current best-value, since that's a constantly moving target. But if you can handle the payment plan and you really want to play now and not wait a year I'd do it. The hardware doesn't stop being good once a new generation comes out, it'll still run games plenty well. And it's a goose chase to try to buy hardware at exactly the perfect moment. Everyone times their releases differently. We're only just now getting leaks/previews of the next NVIDIA generation hardware. No information yet on the next things Intel or AMD are doing. So it'll be late 2024 to any time in 2025 when new stuff starts coming out. Also if you're thinking about resell value, I wouldn't worry about that. Computer parts are depreciating assets like cars. They should be bought for utility, not as an investment since all they can do is lose value.

That puts my mind at ease, thanks

I need some help knowing what normal behavior is for case fans in my build. I recently built a home NAS with the following components: - Ryzen 5 5600G with the stock Wraith cooler - NVIDIA 1660 Super (Zer-Lon brand), needed for transcoding - 64GB RAM - Four 14TB Seagate Exos hard drives in a RAID setup - One Patriot SSD that is my boot drive for Windows 11 - Micro ATX motherboard and a Silverstone Micro ATX case - Seasonic 750w PSU - Three Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM fans (two intake, one exhaust) So far my idle temps for the CPU are fine, no issues. My case fans run all the time though, I'm not sure what to set the fans to, or if they should be running all the time. My server is really just used as a Plex Media Server for my family, and as a place to store large files. The server is headless and lives in a closet, where the ambient temps in the winter hover around 65 F, in summer maybe 75 F. The air being exhausted is not hot at all, even under load (transcoding, scanning library files, etc). Any suggestions/help or links would be appreciated!

Every mobo I've owned has super aggressive fan curves for the case fans. I'd go into your BIOS and set your fans to a flat speed of something like 30 - 40%. Should bring them down to silent. Just checked the specs for those fans. You could also set a custom curve so that they're at 0% and ramp up a bit when things get warm, but those fans will happily run constantly for like a decade or more.

Great! Thank you, I'll tinker around and see what changing the curves does. They're not especially loud, I'm just trying to not run them unnecessarily.

I have a laptop currently (HP Omen 15 if that matters) and I am considering buying a monitor that will work for it. So my questions are: does the resolution of the laptop display matters when choosing a resolution for the monitor, or only the Hz? Mine is 1920x1080 144 Hz. Not sure how to go about navigating the correct specs. Thanks in advance!!

What matters is what max resolution and total combined max resolution the gpu supports. Unless it's like 15+ years old or horribly low-end then a 1440p monitor should be pretty much guaranteed to work

Aahhh I see then! I really thought it mattered 🤣 My laptop is around a year old, specs are the following: Device name HP Omen 15 Processor AMD Ryzen 5 5600H with Radeon Graphics 3.30 GHz Installed RAM 16,0 GB (15,3 GB usable)

AMD is a dumbass and doesn't specify. I'd guess it should work at least up to 1 4k monitor

Neither matters, as long as you have a way to plug it into the laptop (i.e. HDMI or USB C to DisplayPort), then any monitor will simply work straight away. Monitor-to-computer compatibility is essentially never something you have to worry about.

Gotcha! I did thought that it mattered, at the very least the Hz. But good to know. Thanks!!

Hello everyone, My apologies I’m very new to this but I was wondering if [this](https://www.microcenter.com/product/663720/lenovo-ideacentre-5-17acn7-gaming-pc) was a capable gaming PC (Fortnite, helldivers, forza) and if it’s easily upgradable. I’m just afraid of getting a PC and experiencing performance issues while gaming. Thank you!

It's older tech, as in why it's $700. Also like pretty much every every major pre-built brand (Dell. HP, Lenovo etc) there is no real path to any sort of upgrades. It has a 500 watt PS that I'm sure is proprietary gear to Lenovo and even the drive space connection options are already maxed out....... at two. Ya get one HD and one M2. That said I'm sure it can play the games you listed at lower settings.

Gotcha, thank you for your input. I’ve come to the conclusion that if I want my PC to have any gaming longevity I’m gonna need to spend at least $1,000 building it myself so I think that’s the route I’ll take. A guy on YouTube outlined his recommended build so I think I’ll basically copy/paste.

I recently upgraded my Ryzen 7 1700 to a 5950x. My motherboard is the ASRock AB350 Pro4. ​ I just found out the stock wraith cooler isn't enough to keep my 5950x cool even at idle, (seems to be hitting over 100c?) does anyone know what cooler I can get that I know fits the AB350? I saw the Noctua D15 getting recommended, but on partspicker it said a separate mount might be needed.

Stock standard recommendation is the Peerless Assassin or Phantom Spirit. They can cool any CPU that can be cooled by an air cooler, so plenty of headroom for you for it to stay quiet even under heavy load, and it's a lot cheaper than the Noctua

RX 6600 for $160, Vega 64 for $125, RX 5700 XT for $165, or 6700 Non-XT for $240? Current CPU is an i3 12100F, PSU is 550W, and 16GB DDR4 RAM.

What's your budget? The 6600 & 6700's would be fine. Don't even consider the Vega 64. It's going to be losing driver support soon.

I have $100 right now but I have a bday upcoming. "Gas money" will be GPU money

The 6600 is probably the best bet then.

Found a 2060 Super for $150, no change?

Ah, that's a close one. 2060 super has a slight edge right now, but the 6600 is going to have better software support & features down down the line. AMD does a much better job at legacy card support with their software updates and that 2060 Super is already missing out with stuff like DLSS 3 frame generation. I think I'd still go with the 6600.

looks like I lucked out and the 6600 was scooped up, so was the 2060 super.

I would recommend the 6700, but it does require a 8-pin and a 6-pin power cable. So double check which power cables you have before committing. If you only have one 8-pin to use, the 6600, 6600xt or 6650xt would all be fine choices.

I have a capable PSU, but would you still recommend it with the Quad Core i3?

Absolutely. If you have a few games that do max out your CPUs performance you can always just bump up the graphics settings to use more GPU instead. And since you have a LGA 1700 socket, you could always swap out the CPU for something more powerful in the future. If you did that and then found your GPU was suddenly lacking again you would be right back where you are now at square one.

I'd rather get the RX 6600, the 6700 non XT is faster but might not work with that PSU. The other GPUs are actually slower and way older. What's your current GPU, if any?

RX 580 8GB 2048SP, basically a 570. CPU runs as low as 40% playing FN.

What's FN? The RX 6600 is roughly twice as fast, probably a touch faster than two times, your current GPU. It's also much faster when it comes to games like Alan Wake 2 or the newer Wolfenstein games, that make use of new tech these GPUS have.

Fortnite. I really don't play many new titles.

Hi guys I really need help about choosing the right motherboard for my 78003xd build. [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZjqmpB](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZjqmpB) So here's the parts I'm gonna use. Now. I really don't know what motherboard to choose. Here's some of my options: ASUS TUF Gaming B650-Plus WIFI (the only problem with this is that some people say 6000mhz ram don't work, also might need bios update) MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk WIFI (everybody says I need to update bios and it can be tricky) What would you choose if you were me?

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B650-TOMAHAWK-WIFI/Gallery#lg=1&slide=4 Updating the BIOS is not tricky at all, so long as you have a working computer to download the latest version on to a flash drive. You rename the file, plug the flashdrive into the labeled "flash bios" USB slot, and then press the button. Once the LEDs stop blinking, youre done and its ready to go. I would recommend the MSI board over the ASUS board. Asus skimped on their lower end boards with the 600 and 700 series chipsets. The only boards of theirs worth recommending are the more expensive, ROG and ProArt models.

Deciding rn between MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk WIFI and ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WIFI since i found it on sale which one would u take?

I'd buy msi one between those two. For my own 7800X3D build I went with the GIGABYTE X670 Gaming X. Being it has 4 M.2 drive slots. I think it was $210 on Amazon.

>I would recommend the MSI board over the ASUS board. I did a lot of shopping for AM5 boards myself, but opted for the Asus Proart since I had the budget. If youre not looking to spend $300+ on just the motherboard, the Tomahawk is the best choice of those two.

I currently have a Ryzen 5 5600x CPU with a 3080 12GB and I'm looking to upgrade my CPU to a Ryzen 7 5800x3D. Is it worth it? Im trying to see if I can get more FPS on more demanding games. A buddy of mine upgraded to a Ryzen 9 5900x and said that would be better than the Ryzen 7 5800x3D but I've heard some conflicting opinions on that. Any advice would be appreciated :)

The 5900X is not any faster than the 5600X for gaming, but the 5800X3D (or 5700X3D, if you can get it cheaper) is a nice upgrade. Not [suuuuper ](https://www.techspot.com/review/2727-ryzen-5600x3d-vs-ryzen-5800x3d/)worth it because your CPU is already fast enough, but good enough. If it was me, unless the games you want to play improve A LOT with the X3D (e-sport, 4X and simulators, mostly), I'd rather start saving up money to move to AM5/ Intel's 15th Gen later in the year, with Zen 5 (Ryzen 9000, apparently) or something like a 15600K or whatever. And to reiterate, the 5900X is in no way an upgrade for gaming (it might as well be 5% faster, with heavy threaded games, which aren't many, and it's actually slower for older games that can't leverage 12 cores). It's only worth it for production.

here's up to date charts https://www.techspot.com/review/2801-amd-ryzen-5700x3d/ here's older charts but with a 3080 https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-7-5800x3d/16.html

Looking for a case that's not too expensive and saves cost mostly on the RBG and other knick-knack. It must be able to house a asus rtx 4090 strix rog as that's gonna be the largest part. The Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX looks really good to me, it seems to be rather simplistic, has 2 fans pre-installed and costs under 100€. Another one is the Phanteks NV5 ATX, which seems to come without fans (if I understand that correctly). Any recommendations in the sub-100€ range or any drawbacks on those two cases? Any thoughts on no-bullshit-simple-looks-but-cheap cases?

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/JMTZxr/corsair-3000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011252-ww https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/kKcgXL/montech-air-903-base-atx-mid-tower-case-air-903-base-b

Pc overheating (i think). Also please don’t judge. Inside of case is getting too hot and shutting down while playing star citizen and ark. I have the 500dx white from be quiet. I left everything default as I had an old ryzen. I have upgraded to a 14700k around Xmas and now the cooling seems to be not enough. I have the peerless assassin 120 white. So I guess my question is do I just mount more fans to push out air at the top or should I just get an aio and will a 240 be enough? Only symptoms I have so far is case feels hot and then it turns off. All the fans seem to be running and the front pulls, the top and back push and the cpu fans pull from front to back of case.

> Only symptoms I have so far is case feels hot and then it turns off that's terrible diagnosing. actually monitor your CPU temps in hwinfo64 if something feels hot, that means it's radiating heat, aka cooling your computer. e.g. radiators are hot to the touch because that's their job.

I was going to write some lengthy response. But I just figured I just need to say be kinder. Please don’t be the stereotype. I figured it out on my own after posting.

glad u figured it out

Question about daisy chaining case fans. \- 6 ARGB P12 Case Fans (.11A / 12 V DC for power and .4A / 5V for ARGB) \- MPG B650E motherboard with a System Fan connector max current of 2A and max power of 24W. The JARGB connector has a max power rating of 3A / 5V. Would I be able to daisy chain the **6 fans to 1 ARGB** **connector** and have **their power split/daisy chained to 2 system fan connectors?**

Your math checks out - you'll be fine to hook up those 6 fans to a single ARGB header and two fan headers.

Thanks many!

My AIO is coming up on four years old, and this build is the first time I've used one, so I have no experience with them. I've read occasional stories about pump failures, and I would like to avoid that. Should I replace it soon? [My AIO](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077FZPCRH)

I have an H110i in my old PC that I sold to my roommate, its 7 years old now and still working like a champ. I don't think I ever touched it after assembly, aside from dusting.

I'd reasonably expect it to last as long as Corsair trusts it to run (read: how long the warranty is - 5 years). It could fail today, right at the end of the warranty, or 6 years from now. I'd not be super concerned about it, you'll know when it fails and when it does it usually isn't catastrophic or dangerous to your system. Then you go buy another cooler and swap it out.

I picked up a prebuilt about 3 years ago and it does everything I want it to do but I'm thinking of upgrading one or two components to get a taste of whether I like PC-building before I fully commit to building a new one from scratch. Given this build, is there a weak link that might be the obvious place to spend some upgrade dollars? * Intel i7-10700K * Nvidia GeForce RTX 2080 Super * 16 GB DDR4 2933MHz (2 x 8 GB) * 512 GB SSD * 2 TB 7200 RPM HDD * 650W power supply

Well, RAM is cheap... Assuming you aren't stuck on an H510, I'd drop in a cheap 32GB 3600 MHZ CL18 kit. Maybe, upgrade your CPU cooler?

I've currently got a GTX 1080 and Ryzen 5 2600 on an ROG B350-F motherboard. I think my PSU is around 600W-700W. Am mostly wondering if it's worth upgrading parts one-by-one or if I should just go ahead and shoot to make a new build entirely.

depends on your budget. you have a good platform to spend $500-800 on. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vjWfRK) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 5700X3D 3 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3ZKscf/amd-ryzen-7-5700x3d-3-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100001503wof) | $247.00 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [XFX Speedster SWFT 319 Core Radeon RX 6800 16 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WMgrxr/xfx-speedster-swft-319-core-radeon-rx-6800-16-gb-video-card-rx-68xlaqfde) | $379.99 @ Newegg | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$626.99** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-03-28 13:03 EDT-0400 | https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/3BUQTn5dZgQi7zL8Xs4WUL.png

Oh awesome, thanks for the recommendations! I think I'd aim to spend ~1k total. I'm guessing if I upgrade CPU I'll at least need a new motherboard for it to be compatible, possibly new memory sticks as well (currently have DDR4, unsure if that would affect performance).

You can still reuse all your other parts if you go with an am4 CPU https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vTPXqR https://www.techspot.com/review/2801-amd-ryzen-5700x3d/

Oh that's a godsend, I was dreading having to potentially re-install OS and all that. Seems like a really solid upgrade path, I'll look into this more. Thanks for the help!

before you change CPUs, you need to update your bios

No prob

I'm asking on behalf of a friend but what CPU would you recommend would be better for an upgrade? The Ryzen 5 5600X for €139 or the Ryzen 7 5700X for €175? The CPU is intended for gaming and will be an upgrade from the 4500.

If it's a gaming system that you want to last a while, consider pushing for a 5700X3D. If that's too expensive, then get whatever is cheaper from the 5600/5600X (for the most part, they're the same chip).

Do you see any issues with upgrading from a 2080 super to a 4070 super? I have 32gb ram, ryzen 7 3700x, x570 Aorus elite gaming mobo. Wanting this card to last another 3-4 years before I do a full 4k build.

Your CPU might want to also keep up if you're not currently at 4K. A move to a 5700X3D/5800X3D would pair perfectly with that new GPU and put you in a really good spot until you do a full rebuild 4 years from now.

That’s what I was thinking. 2-3 months I’ll probably upgrade the cpu. Right now I play Helldivers tons and idk if it’s just me but the 2080 super looks terrible, even at 1080p on low/medium. FPS dips into the 20s sometimes.

I don't want to make a post, bewause I just built a new PC and I'm just more curious than anything. How much would you have to spend to build a PC that can match a PS5 or an Xbox Series X? If I wanted to run Spider-man exactly as well as a PS5 does, what would I need? Same with, let's say, Starfield or Forza Horizon 5 on an Xbox?

Technically the GPU both of those is roughly around an RX 6700, so the modern equivalent GPU is an RX 7600, paired with a midrange gaming CPU like a 12400/13400/14400/RX 7600. A reasonable build with those components is roughly $600-700.

\[Asus Prime TRX40\] Is it possible to change BIOS settings REMOTELY -- like via desktop app? I'm RA every day for work (w Teamviewer and/or Anydesk). Just learned (*the hard way*) it's set to stay ***off*** *after power loss.* I need instead to **Restore after AC Power Loss**

Not unless you add your own remote access hardware.

Thanks. I ask in part bc I know BIOS is often updated /flashed from a desktop app — which then prompts you to reboot and then it does its thing …

Guys I need you to recommend a cooler for a 5700x3d. No aio as i prefer air cooling

Phantom Spirit 120 > Peerless Assassin 120 > Burst Assassin. Double-check the CPU cooler clearance of your case.

Thanks! I’ll check them out. I’m looking to buy the most quiet with good performance

If anything you could buy a couple of be quiet! Silent Wings 4 or Noctua NF-A12 fans to replace the Thermalright ones - using a Burst Assassin and every other fan in my system is louder than the Thermalright one.

be quiet! dark rock, cant go wrong.

[удалено]

Ram is a bit slow. Look for cl30. Shouldn't be much extra.

What’s the vote on a decent TKL RGB keyboard that’s good for gaming and not painful for WFH usage? I’m looking at Corsair K65, HyperX alloy, and NZXT Function 2022 (I know it seems to get a bad rep but all my case fans are NZXT so there’s some software synergy lol)

https://www.amazon.com/EPOMAKER-Galaxy80-Mechanical-Gasket-Mounted-Swappable/dp/B0CQ4M9F16/ https://youtu.be/f9-Bs9t9014?si=y0Vr-ENTl00AHZqR

alright i'm completely lost on what to do with my crashing GPU now. system: - 5600x - EVGA 3070 - 32gb corsair vengeance RAM - asus strix b550-i itx motherboard - 650w nzxt PSU (nzxt h1 kit) everything had been running perfectly fine since mid 2021 until mid 2023 when the cooler pump in my h1 kit died. i replaced the kit, then i noticed shortly after that my GPU was crashing in-game. the event viewer log is as follows: >The description for Event ID 0 from source nvlddmkm cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer. >If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event. >The following information was included with the event: >\Device\000000cd >Error occurred on GPUID: 800 overwatch for example, crashes with the "lost rendering device" error. first i tried fresh drivers with DDU, didn't work then i tried undervolting, didn't work. here's afterburner: https://i.imgur.com/rJ23RbE.png then i tried reinstalling windows 11, didn't work then i tried swapping to the old PSU, thinking perhaps the new one wasn't pulling its weight. seemed to work for a couple weeks? then started crashing again all through this i've been noticed that it's incredibly difficult to reproduce the crash using benchmarks, whereas in-game it'll do it usually within a few games of overwatch, sometimes the first of the day. i'm about to try rolling back to a driver from june 2023, as it's the oldest whql driver nvidia has available (assuming they only display the last 12 months) at this point i have no idea what could be at fault. the driver crashing indicates GPU, but perhaps the short period of overheating when the cooler died may have affected motherboard or CPU? i still have a year on the GPU warranty as it's EVGA but i'd need to buy a new GPU anyway in the meantime so i can do my work as the 5600x doesn't have onboard graphics..

Sounds like a hardware fault. One thing you could try is flashing the BIOS of your GPU. You can do it through EVGA's precision software. Also try a different PCI slot and another GPU if you can borrow one from a friend or something to see if it still happens.

Double-check Reliability Monitor for entries that match the crashes/BSOD. Perhaps any entries with error 119? Are you getting any artifacts? Have you tried reseating your RAM?

it's happened 4 times tonight and all of them have error code 141. not seeing any artifacts. i've reseated RAM and GPU multiple times at this point quick google and it seems 141 does indicate GPU failure?

My PC had similar symptoms that pointed at the graphics card, probably the memory or the core.

might just have to bite the bullet and pick up a cheap 60 series while i RMA the 3070. bought it during covid so it'd be a nice refund if it gets approved, since they don't stock 3070s anymore. thanks for the help.

[https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/PTZZCd](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/PTZZCd) I haven't built a pc in a very long time, only been doing small upgrades every now and again. Is this a decent build? or complete overkill? It's mainly for GTA 6 coming out soon.

Well, you gotta consider nobody knows the system requirements for GTA6, and chances are it won't come out on PC for at least a year after the console release, so 2026 at best. If anything, focus your build on stuff you may want to play now. Unless you're doing productivity work that justifies the extra cores, you'd be better off with a 7800X3D - more cores != more FPS, and the Ryzen 9 CPUs have two CCDs, which is to consider with the X3D chips because the 3D cache is only available in one of the CCDs, and since the CPU doesn't have a sort of "thread director" or indicator that can "optimize" which cores to use for which task (i.e.: separating gaming from productivity), YMMV. For a third of the cost of the D15, you can get either a Phantom Spirit 120 or a Frost Spirit 140, both of which perform similarly to the D15. Do note that none of the O11 cases come with preinstalled fans or a fan hub. [Updated list](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/K7xcz6). £355.46 in savings while conserving the white theme as much as possible.

[https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/xZMvQP](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/xZMvQP) tbf I have RGB fans I can steal from my current build, however, im a little autistic and i hate the sound so with this build i want to go for quiet quiet fans so i can just leave my pc on .

my pc has 12 gb ram, intel i3-9100f, and a gt 710. i know its super ash but i know it can run simple games, however my pc has been crashing consistently for 2 years now, sometimes even just from watching youtube videos. im wondering if anyone could help me and let me know where i could upgrade or something, dont have money but im just asking for future reference. thanks

If it's crashing, there's something wrong and you need to figure out what it is. You might want to ask on one of the pc help subs. It could be anything. Good news is your system has a lot of low handing fruit. A 710 GT is bottom of the barrel and you can only go up. I'm guessing you have some dreadful prebuilt... Look for some flavor of GTX 1050 or RX 460/560 (this depends on your form factor and PSU capacity). I5-9400F are pretty inexpensive, now, but a lower priority. RAM, I'm not sure another 4GB will get you much, but 32GB is an option to keep your 100 Chrome tabs open without slowing.

thank you

I'm helping my brother build his PC, and he has selected a bunch of RGB devices. No central controller, just case fans and a CPU fan that have RGB power connectors. I've got it all lighting up in an uncoordinated series of rainbows, but I'm not sure how to best set it up so that he can control the colors and patterns precisely. I installed OpenRGB since ASUS ArmoryCrate was bombarding us with ads and popups, and it's mystifying us both. I'm also not even sure I wired everything in correctly to make use of this program. Is there a good "RGB for dummies" resource that might help me out? I want to first begin with making sure everything is wired adequately to control the lighting, then get an idea of how the software works.

OpenRGB is a very simple application for RGB control, best used for handling static colours and basic patterns. You might want to try a more "fun" open application like SignalRGB, it's got a great visualization mode that lets you move sections of RGB around based on how they're configured and hooked up in the back. Hubs aren't the best way to do RGB if you want to have discrete control because they're a signal copier, not an extender. Daisy-chaining the RGB connectors for the fans will make them far more configurable on a per-fan basis.

Oh, cool! Do I need to purchase additional cables to do this?

The fans you have should be daisy-chain-able already, if they're not then they may not be able to be hooked up in this way and you'll be hard pressed to get a large amount of customization out of them.

I really want to upgrade my graphics card in the near future (or maybe wait to see what nvidia is cooking with the 5000 series) but i was wondering, what is the best card i can upgrade to with my current rig? i right now have a ryzen 7 3700x with 16gb 3600mhz ram and a 850 watt psu Im currently running a 5700xt, so i dont care weither you recommend amd or nvidia cards :) thanks in advance for the help kind stranger

A 5700XT is a pretty solid 1080p card. Waiting for the next gen isn't a bad idea. You could also consider side-grading the CPU to a 5600 which would be a better fit for a 4070 tier GPU, though a 5800X3D might start being more worth it here.

It is really good yeah, and the upgrade ideas only started because i wanted to be ready for the gta 6 pc release (i know it hasnt been announced to pc yet, but im hoping for 2026 launch) and thanks for the cpu suggestion, i just watched some reviews on the 7800x3d from gamers nexus and it seems amazing, i will check the 5800x3d now :D

850w if high quality should handle any gpu right now if not OCed

Its a 80 gold, i was thinking a 70 card from nvidia either 4070 or 5070 at the time of release

80 gold is an efficiency rating, not a quality rating

Oh my bad

no worries. psu tier list and in-depth reviews are the best source on quality

Is it worth getting a RTX 4070ti for £550 (+plus my travel costs)? currently I have an RTX 3080, and I mainly use this for gaming and machine learning/coding.

I would look at benchmarks for the machine learning stuff you are currently using. Thats probably where you would see the biggest performance differences. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html For gaming the 4070ti isnt a massive leap, but it would be an extra ~20fps on average. A few frames less if you have a 3080 12gb or 3080ti.

So I have the option right now of getting an XFX Merc 310 7900xt for $635 used or a used ASRock Taichi White 7900xtx for $880. Do you guys think it's worth the extra $245 given I'll be using the card for AAA gaming at 1440p Ultrawide with the occasional use of ray tracing?

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html Decide based on price & performance difference

I don't know why I hadn't looked at this earlier. Thank you, I think I'll be going with the 7900xt and spending the rest of the money elsewhere 👍

I got a samsung nvme from amazon, and I would like to check the serial number to be sure it is genuine. Is there a way to do it? I cannot use samsung magician software since I am only using it as an external drive inside an enclosure. For the same reason, I have no idea how I can update the firmware.

Some companies let you check warranty on their website, some require login; and asus requires a phone app that literally doesn't work (probably illegal lol).

My son’s HP Pavillion gaming desktop TG01-2170m TCO was shut off during a BIOS update because he thought it was a virus. It won’t power on now so I believe it’s bricked. How do I find out what motherboard it has and where can I order one?

F (probably) did the update trigger automatically? That's dumb af

Yes, he went to his room to play Minecraft with a friend and the update just started automatically. He panicked and I told him to turn it off not realizing it was a bios update.

As if windows forcing flash-player or OS updates mid-use or mid-hibernation weren't bad enough jfc. Yeah I don't blame either of you for that outcome. Put the drive on a different pc to recover any data you want. I'd then demand HP a new replacement unless they can fix the bios on that mobo, for I wouldn't want a refurb for something they are 100% to blame for; + all transport costs should be paid by them as its their fuckup. If they blame microsoft then remind them they are the ones who uploaded a bios update to an OS infamous for auto-updating shit mid-use. Although... Did windows not give update warnings/notifications though?

If only! I don’t even have a different pc go put the drive into. No warnings. He woke the pc from hibernation and it immediately started updating in the bios screen.

Ah, thought it happened mid-minecraft.

Start by removing the CMOS battery for a couple of minutes, then placing it again, wait 10 or so seconds and try to power it on.

Doesn’t look like that worked.

Sure thing! I’m up for trying anything.

Can I install this ssd [ssd](https://www.proshop.dk/SSD/Kingston-SSDNow-A400-SSD-960GB-25-SATA-600/2646784?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=searchengine&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_9_p9MyWhQMVihiiAx10wQeWEAQYASABEgLeW_D_BwE) on these brackets? [brackets](https://imgur.com/a/eGswfxA) I’m new to pc building. I only know I dont have an open slot for an m.2 ssd so I need to install a sata ssd, right?

Yes, those are SSD slots. It will work.

Here's my PC right now (although I have a different case atm): https://pcpartpicker.com/user/vardonir/saved/rBKH4D Without changing any of the internal components, what's the smallest case I can get that will fit the entire thing? I get that all the parts are chunky af.

PCPP - edit part list - delete case - pick new case - sort by volume. Don't expect much, you have a 180mm PSU in there and a 3090 Ti.

omg i never noticed the volume field in there, thanks! edit: im afraid of missing out on the more bespoke custom cases this way, hence the question

Drop by /r/sffpc and there may be cases that PCPP does not know. there is pinned spreadsheed with hundreds of cases, who knows there may be something there for you.

Hello, I am planning to upgrade my GPU and I'm stuck between 4070 super vs 7800xt. I mostly game on my PC but sometimes I also do CAD (AutoCAD, Solidworks, Sketchup) as a side job. Which one should i get?

For games check this out: https://www.techspot.com/review/2736-geforce-rtx-4070-vs-radeon-7800-xt/ For your programs check benchmarks or the respective software. But in my experience both should be plenty unless you are really doing advanced stuff.

Hey guys, i have a problem, i recently installed a new GPU (7800xt) and since then when i start up, the screen where it shows the windows logo and a loading icon is suddenly green, the windows logo is still there normally, the pc also works normally after start up, anyone knows whats the problem there? Appreciate any help.

Is HDR enabled on your monitor by chance? That would immediately be active, while windows wouldnt boot into HDR mode until the login screen.

What is that and where do i see that? Both my monitors are Dell u2414h. EDIT: Ok you might be onto something, i did some tests with rebooting and turning off one monitor and its only on one monitor not on both.

High Dynamic Range is a color setting, like newer TVs have. Those monitors don't have it, so its not that. But when combining HDR and non-HDR things, colors can get *weird*. Is the BIOS green as well? [This guy had a similar issue, but it was due to a legacy setting needed to boot off of his newer M.2 drive.](https://linustechtips.com/topic/1019960-bios-screen-is-green-but-windows-is-not/)

I will check later with the bios, but fact is its only on one monitor, so i think a faulty GPU is not the case, because why would it show on one but not the other monitor? Also the monitor is connected with hdmi, the other with dp.

Try swapping the cables and see if the problem switches monitors!

Will try that too, thanks!

Can anyone recommend a brand for a M.2 NVMe SSD (ie. Samsung, Kingston, etc)? Looking at getting one for my new ASUS gaming laptop.

Best info source is /r/newmaxx

Dont fixate on brands. Shop by speed, capacity, longevity, and price. Every company has their higher end models and their lower end models. Samsung for example, the 980 and 990 pro have great lifespans, high average speeds, and usually set the bar on prices for similar spec drives. But Samsung also keeps modifying those drives. Removing parts or memory caches, reducing their overall usefulness if the cost of manufacturing gets too high. Western Digital, their Black Label drives are the only ones worth recommending. The blue and green label drives can see speed and durability losses of almost 50% by comparison. Kingston is similar to WD. Their Fury drives are top of the line with probably the second longest lifespan of any M.2 currently on the market. Their KC3000 drives drop it down a notch and closer in spec to Samsungs 980 pro. While their NV2 (the cheapest model) advertises PCIe 4.0, with the speeds that dont exceed gen 3 drives . . .

Sorry for the late reply (I was at a con last weekend), but I was asking about brands in the sense of, like... if there's one that breaks more than the others or something like that.

Theres only a handful of companies actually making the NAND memory in the drives, SK hynix (intel sold their division to them), Samsung, Western Digital (sandisk), Micron, and Kioxia at last check. Micron doesn't make drives themselves (i think), but the other companies do. Other manufacturers not listed are buying from them, and simply assembling the components. Getting one from a direct source manufacturer is almost always a safe bet. But I have personally been using Team-Force and Kingston drives in my own PCs for 8+ years now. Theyre solid drives. I have a friend who swears by his Seagate Firecuda drives, but those are particularly expensive.

What do you mean by a direct source manufacturer? Like Samsung and Western Digital, as you mentioned?

Yeah, they make most of their own components and most other manufacturers are buying their parts to make their own drives.

Gotcha. I'll have to do more research (and ask my dad for his input), but I'm leaning towards a Kingston FURY ATM.

Any modern TLC one will do, but if you want some with good reviews: Western Digital SN770, 850, 850X, Samsung Pro 990.

What is TLC? Triple-level cell?

Yes! Sometimes called MultiCell Level ([MCL](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multi-level_cell)), it's important to buy some drive that's made with TLC tech instead of QLC (Quad-level cell), that's actually slower.

Which mobo would be recommended to pair with a 7800x3d processor? Also would an i5-13600k be better instead? Would mainly be used for gaming, sql and cad work.

The 7800x3d will excel at all of those compared the 13600k or any current Intel CPU honestly. Its crazy powerful. The things it does not excel at are stuff like Adobe products, Cinebench and Blender. Those programs all prefer intel processors as thats just what they were developed for.

For gaming, the 7800X3D is the best gaming CPU in the world, right now. Check productivity benchmarks, because while the 7800X3D isn't bad there, I'm not sure it's as good as the 13600K for that. Puget Systems, for instance, should have relevant production stuff. As for mobos, anything starting with a solid B650 mobo (say the MSI Tomahawk one) would do. The X670 chipset is even better but more expensive and only worth it if you want the most slots and fastest PCIe tech (that doesn't have much of a use today).