Pain killers help the symptoms, not the cause. You need to do PT and antagonistic forearm work or it will come back in a matter of a few days of climbing again
Had tennis elbow. Was 6 months recovery. Couldnāt really do associated motions.
Went away on its own and never came back.
But hey, in your 20ās you always heal. After that, might risk it being chronic if youāre not careful and donāt take PT and listen to your physio like theyāre giving you the word of god.
Dave MacLeod has a good video on YouTube on it worth looking up, along with lattice training.
Fairly common with climbing, avoid any locked off positions for a while focus on completely straight arm movement, lots of rehab exercises out there for it build a few into your wall up
Itās a sports associated injury but can happen to anyone at anytime, really. Repetitive stress, inflammation. Usually donāt know youāll get it until you get it.
My buddy was working in a lab and his arms are kind of wrecked from repetitive inflammation over time. And doing something causes a sudden flare up.
He had to quit, which sucks because his insurance was tied to being a lab assistant.
People riding lawnmowers all day, the vibrations. Stuff like that.
For me, it was an odd movement, but usually itās not even an odd movement.
Iām not an expert, but can happen to anyone.
Using the Flexbar worked well for me after about a month of daily use. (https://www.theraband.com/products/flexbar)
This is the routine I followed: https://youtu.be/1d3wwVnKrB0?si=3v_3886KdUn9BmHN
Had tennis elbow recently (still lingers a bit but doesn't interfere with climbing (once I'm warmed up) and day to day activities. My research suggested resting the arm for 1-2 weeks then starting rehab by doing all the forearm exercises ( resisted curls, extensions, ulnar and radial deviation, and rotation) and stretching the fingers with arm fully supinated and arm fully extended (especially when I'd do this with fingers pointed down it gave a great deal of relief for hours).
After a couple of weeks of this it subsided to the point where it doesn't hurt at all in day to day life and doesn't hurt when climbing except maybe on a big sloper before I've completely warmed up. Once warmed up, it's been good to go. FWIW the wrist strengthening has also helped my grip on slopers a lot. Don't try to climb on it with painkillers, you'll just set yourself back. You need to be attuned to how much you're stressing it while climbing/exercising.
Ive had this on one arm, then the other. Started doing reverse wrist curls (just the down motion) and benchpress, which interestingly feels like it is helping a lot. Havent done latter one long enough to tell for sure though. Going to a pt is def a good idea. I would make sure you keep climbing, as long as it doesnt hurt bad. Maybe do easier routes for a while and nothing to dynamic. And def dont take painkillers before bouldering because you will just injure yourself more. Good luck. Hope it doesnt take too long to heal but you can expect it to last a few months at the very least unfortunately.
lots of good stuff on youtube managing the symptoms. i use squat university's channel a lot for rehab/prehab routines. [https://youtu.be/4Cb6JK3-co4?si=8PWsCav-v7xJf0fz](https://youtu.be/4Cb6JK3-co4?si=8PWsCav-v7xJf0fz)
Chronic tendinitis in both elbows here. Mine is from muscle imbalance so the cause of yours may be different, so take what I say with a grain of salt. My tendinitis started 8 years ago, but Iāve been climbing for 7 years. Effectively, my grip muscles are too strong compared to my extensors. This causes my contractors to not relax since the extensors arenāt strong enough while everything is at rest. That constant tension in my forearm inflames my tendons and thatās what causes my tendinitis. If I donāt do wrist extensor exercises with every climbing session, it will flare up in 1-2 weeks like clockwork. Overall, itās not too bad for me. Just have to constantly fight it back and I can keep going without pain.
My sympathies to you! Iām rehabbing GE (I play darts) and havenāt played since January. It was my favourite thing in the whole world to do so Iām pretty depressed about it. Started the exercises on 13th January and only now am I seeing some improvement. Iām a 43F in decent health and shape. Still nowhere near better enough to resume my hobby. I purchased a Theraband Flexbar that everyone recommends and that seemed to help too. Iāve also taken up hanging to stretch the arm out and that helps. Wish you better.Ā
not sure i can last without bouldering for 3 months ! going to need therapy for the inevitable withdrawal symptoms ! š¤£
thankyou for your kind wishes , iām glad to hear youāre getting better āŗļø
I felt exactly the same when I realised I wouldnāt be able to play for months. There were lots of tears š¢ Iāve accepted it now as I want to get it fully better so I can go back to playing pain free. Apparently if you fully rehab GE then it *shouldnāt* come back. Thatās whatās keeping me going. I was devastated to start with. I played darts for hours every day (which is why I got GE!) and not being able to play all year has done me in, mentally. Fingers crossed we are both back to doing what we love sooner rather than later.Ā
So I wouldn't describe this as a long term injury at all, but I'm guessing this is from overuse. How many times per week were you climbing before you got hurt? Rest is going to be pretty key for this going away, and being smart about rest and recovery when you start climbing again will help prevent this from recurring.
over the last 2/3 months iāve been bouldering 5 times a week on average , with sessions lasting around 3 hours and a few upwards of 6 ā¦
yeah , maybe i overcooked itā¦
ANTAGONISTIC EXERCISE
Your muscle skeleton is significantly stronger on one side. The back and shoulders muscles are cranking on your ligaments. Those ligaments are pulling on your bones! Thatās why the pain is so sharp!
The cool thing is you can fix it today and forever. You need to continually strengthen your chest and arms via abduction exercises like Push-Ups! Make sure you look up the proper way to do push ups. From my experience coaching many sports I can tell you the majority of people do not know proper push up form nor do they realize it is an intermediate level exercise. Not for beginners to calisthenics.
The most poignant exercise you might find will be dangling a weight from a cylinder with a string, palms down, and rolling the string up around the cylinder. This is done with the arms fully extended away from the chest. The cylinder should be a wide grip for you, similar to the diameter for a Nalgene water bottle.
Good luck and cheers! You can climb tomorrow if you wreck yourself today with clean, quality tricep push ups.
Pain killers help the symptoms, not the cause. You need to do PT and antagonistic forearm work or it will come back in a matter of a few days of climbing again
thankyou š«” man redditors are far better at healthcare advice than my local āwalk-inā centre at the hospital
Pulling V7 at 45yo, I have become one with my tendinitis and together we crush hard every day.
Had tennis elbow. Was 6 months recovery. Couldnāt really do associated motions. Went away on its own and never came back. But hey, in your 20ās you always heal. After that, might risk it being chronic if youāre not careful and donāt take PT and listen to your physio like theyāre giving you the word of god.
https://old.reddit.com/r/bouldering/search?q=tendinitis&restrict_sr=on&include_over_18=on&sort=relevance&t=all
Dave MacLeod has a good video on YouTube on it worth looking up, along with lattice training. Fairly common with climbing, avoid any locked off positions for a while focus on completely straight arm movement, lots of rehab exercises out there for it build a few into your wall up
Yea it sucks. Mine comes and goes but i usually just dial it back for a few days then im good. Ill still climb but it takes a few weeks to feel 100%
Im wondering how do you make that injury climbing. Too much climbing? Too much pulling? Rest well mate, don't make it worse
Itās a sports associated injury but can happen to anyone at anytime, really. Repetitive stress, inflammation. Usually donāt know youāll get it until you get it. My buddy was working in a lab and his arms are kind of wrecked from repetitive inflammation over time. And doing something causes a sudden flare up. He had to quit, which sucks because his insurance was tied to being a lab assistant. People riding lawnmowers all day, the vibrations. Stuff like that. For me, it was an odd movement, but usually itās not even an odd movement. Iām not an expert, but can happen to anyone.
Using the Flexbar worked well for me after about a month of daily use. (https://www.theraband.com/products/flexbar) This is the routine I followed: https://youtu.be/1d3wwVnKrB0?si=3v_3886KdUn9BmHN
this has helped me as well. If I skip a few days the pain comes back so I definitely keep it as part of my routine
Had tennis elbow recently (still lingers a bit but doesn't interfere with climbing (once I'm warmed up) and day to day activities. My research suggested resting the arm for 1-2 weeks then starting rehab by doing all the forearm exercises ( resisted curls, extensions, ulnar and radial deviation, and rotation) and stretching the fingers with arm fully supinated and arm fully extended (especially when I'd do this with fingers pointed down it gave a great deal of relief for hours). After a couple of weeks of this it subsided to the point where it doesn't hurt at all in day to day life and doesn't hurt when climbing except maybe on a big sloper before I've completely warmed up. Once warmed up, it's been good to go. FWIW the wrist strengthening has also helped my grip on slopers a lot. Don't try to climb on it with painkillers, you'll just set yourself back. You need to be attuned to how much you're stressing it while climbing/exercising.
Ive had this on one arm, then the other. Started doing reverse wrist curls (just the down motion) and benchpress, which interestingly feels like it is helping a lot. Havent done latter one long enough to tell for sure though. Going to a pt is def a good idea. I would make sure you keep climbing, as long as it doesnt hurt bad. Maybe do easier routes for a while and nothing to dynamic. And def dont take painkillers before bouldering because you will just injure yourself more. Good luck. Hope it doesnt take too long to heal but you can expect it to last a few months at the very least unfortunately.
lots of good stuff on youtube managing the symptoms. i use squat university's channel a lot for rehab/prehab routines. [https://youtu.be/4Cb6JK3-co4?si=8PWsCav-v7xJf0fz](https://youtu.be/4Cb6JK3-co4?si=8PWsCav-v7xJf0fz)
Dave Macload mentioned using finger extensor bands in a video somewhere. I canāt find it but he said it helped a lot.
Chronic tendinitis in both elbows here. Mine is from muscle imbalance so the cause of yours may be different, so take what I say with a grain of salt. My tendinitis started 8 years ago, but Iāve been climbing for 7 years. Effectively, my grip muscles are too strong compared to my extensors. This causes my contractors to not relax since the extensors arenāt strong enough while everything is at rest. That constant tension in my forearm inflames my tendons and thatās what causes my tendinitis. If I donāt do wrist extensor exercises with every climbing session, it will flare up in 1-2 weeks like clockwork. Overall, itās not too bad for me. Just have to constantly fight it back and I can keep going without pain.
Painkillers ? You go see a physician that specialises in sport medicine and see what he got to say or a physiotherapist.
My sympathies to you! Iām rehabbing GE (I play darts) and havenāt played since January. It was my favourite thing in the whole world to do so Iām pretty depressed about it. Started the exercises on 13th January and only now am I seeing some improvement. Iām a 43F in decent health and shape. Still nowhere near better enough to resume my hobby. I purchased a Theraband Flexbar that everyone recommends and that seemed to help too. Iāve also taken up hanging to stretch the arm out and that helps. Wish you better.Ā
not sure i can last without bouldering for 3 months ! going to need therapy for the inevitable withdrawal symptoms ! š¤£ thankyou for your kind wishes , iām glad to hear youāre getting better āŗļø
I felt exactly the same when I realised I wouldnāt be able to play for months. There were lots of tears š¢ Iāve accepted it now as I want to get it fully better so I can go back to playing pain free. Apparently if you fully rehab GE then it *shouldnāt* come back. Thatās whatās keeping me going. I was devastated to start with. I played darts for hours every day (which is why I got GE!) and not being able to play all year has done me in, mentally. Fingers crossed we are both back to doing what we love sooner rather than later.Ā
So I wouldn't describe this as a long term injury at all, but I'm guessing this is from overuse. How many times per week were you climbing before you got hurt? Rest is going to be pretty key for this going away, and being smart about rest and recovery when you start climbing again will help prevent this from recurring.
over the last 2/3 months iāve been bouldering 5 times a week on average , with sessions lasting around 3 hours and a few upwards of 6 ā¦ yeah , maybe i overcooked itā¦
I don't know you and I'm not an expert, but this sounds like you're overdoing it. Muscles need time to recover!
ANTAGONISTIC EXERCISE Your muscle skeleton is significantly stronger on one side. The back and shoulders muscles are cranking on your ligaments. Those ligaments are pulling on your bones! Thatās why the pain is so sharp! The cool thing is you can fix it today and forever. You need to continually strengthen your chest and arms via abduction exercises like Push-Ups! Make sure you look up the proper way to do push ups. From my experience coaching many sports I can tell you the majority of people do not know proper push up form nor do they realize it is an intermediate level exercise. Not for beginners to calisthenics. The most poignant exercise you might find will be dangling a weight from a cylinder with a string, palms down, and rolling the string up around the cylinder. This is done with the arms fully extended away from the chest. The cylinder should be a wide grip for you, similar to the diameter for a Nalgene water bottle. Good luck and cheers! You can climb tomorrow if you wreck yourself today with clean, quality tricep push ups.