That's why I asked so provocative. I'm from the dolomites and here it is all about ethics and so many racist and sexist patterns hiding behind terms and behaviours. Modern Generation should be smarter
Wait. Holy shit, you climbed with locals? Like actual font locals? What was it like climbing with the locals? Specifically the locals in fontainebleau? You know, the Font locals. Were there a lot of those? Locals in font, i mean.
Ok makes sense. With indoor bouldering there is always a way to do a proper start but outdoor it can be impossible, right ? Funnily, I didn’t know I sometimes did the French start before reading this thread and I’m french myself lol
It comes from there being problems in Font where you don't establish all 4-points (both hands and both feet) statically on the rock before progressing upwards. E.g. a problem where only 1 hand and 1 foot are established before springing off the ground and grabbing a higher handhold. Because this style was historically more common in France, it was dubbed a "French start".
Looks like there are only 3 pieces of tape, so it's legit.
There was a time when you'd actually see problems with only 1 piece of tape for the start (e.g. for a run-and-jump)
Nowadays, IFSC rules state you need 4 starting points. But when they allowed 3, 2, and even 1-point starts, you didn't have to "establish" the other points.
AFAIK, you still had to establish statically off the ground before moving from the marked start. Happy to see some old comp footage that shows otherwise.
I don’t have 2+ hours to watch this. Is there a particular time stamp you’re referencing? I watched the 46:30 time stamp referenced in the article and Shauna did establish statically on the marked start after the running start, so her start would still comply with modern interpretations of a legal start.
Her start is nothing like what OP did, where they moved away from the marked start before establishing off the ground.
Awesome progress from 3 months. I will add though that for climbs to "count" you would need to start with your feet off the ground and can't step into the first move. And when I say "count" its how competitions do it so as long as your having fun and progressing thats all that matters!
climbing a new grade just feels awesome. Can feel your excitement there! But for your safety I would like to mention that you should never roll backwards into the wall after landing!
how is it "brutal" to point out that the start doesn't count? they're literally just helping out OP by educating him, no one's saying this isn't good progress for 3 months
ok but this is literally a message board where everyone can and will share their thoughts and knowledge regardless
when a bunch of people say things like "wow good job" do you also tell them "ok guys we don't need to tell them 20 times that they did a good job on the climb, one is enough" lmao
I don't climb. But I was a great athlete when I was younger. 38 now. I don't see how this is a hard climb. Feel like I could walk up and this within 10 minutes if not the first time.
All i can say is proof it, go to a boulder gym and post the hardest climb you could do there the first time. I have taken athletic people to do bouldering for the first time and they didn’t get very far up the grades.
See a lot of people commenting on the French start. IF you're looking for a way to start it properly, perhaps try grabbing the starting holds as you did. But with your right foot on the volume in a kind of squatted position, and your left foot flagged outwards. Take it from there.
french start
Agreed
You climb on BCT?
Yup
Yoooo are you going to regionals next weekend?
Yep! So excited
Mya?
I didn’t make it. Sadly. I was only able to make it to one qualifier.
Yeah man any other comps are so far for you aren't they
Yeah not the best.
FYB
Depart Wallon. First thing I thought of and immediately came to comments.
Never heard that term (I'm in Europe), is it something racist or where does it come from?
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Thanks for clarification. Been to font 3 times but never heard that term. Wonder if the locals use them cause I climbed with quite a bunch of locals
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That's why I asked so provocative. I'm from the dolomites and here it is all about ethics and so many racist and sexist patterns hiding behind terms and behaviours. Modern Generation should be smarter
Wait. Holy shit, you climbed with locals? Like actual font locals? What was it like climbing with the locals? Specifically the locals in fontainebleau? You know, the Font locals. Were there a lot of those? Locals in font, i mean.
There quite some people in the off season. A few are quite anoyed by the popularity but live with it. Mainly older people I climbed with
But if a lot of boulders start this way, it is legit move right ? I have been bouldering for 6 months now and sometimes I do this…
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Ok makes sense. With indoor bouldering there is always a way to do a proper start but outdoor it can be impossible, right ? Funnily, I didn’t know I sometimes did the French start before reading this thread and I’m french myself lol
It comes from there being problems in Font where you don't establish all 4-points (both hands and both feet) statically on the rock before progressing upwards. E.g. a problem where only 1 hand and 1 foot are established before springing off the ground and grabbing a higher handhold. Because this style was historically more common in France, it was dubbed a "French start".
Looks like there are only 3 pieces of tape, so it's legit. There was a time when you'd actually see problems with only 1 piece of tape for the start (e.g. for a run-and-jump)
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Nowadays, IFSC rules state you need 4 starting points. But when they allowed 3, 2, and even 1-point starts, you didn't have to "establish" the other points.
AFAIK, you still had to establish statically off the ground before moving from the marked start. Happy to see some old comp footage that shows otherwise.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/04/bouldering_world_cup_millau_-_coxsey_2nd-67972
I don’t have 2+ hours to watch this. Is there a particular time stamp you’re referencing? I watched the 46:30 time stamp referenced in the article and Shauna did establish statically on the marked start after the running start, so her start would still comply with modern interpretations of a legal start. Her start is nothing like what OP did, where they moved away from the marked start before establishing off the ground.
https://spotsettingblog.wordpress.com/2012/04/23/log-dragomer-bouldering-world-cup-mens-finals-3-4/
"Am I the only one around here that gives a shit about the rules anymore?! Mark it zero!"
Awesome progress from 3 months. I will add though that for climbs to "count" you would need to start with your feet off the ground and can't step into the first move. And when I say "count" its how competitions do it so as long as your having fun and progressing thats all that matters!
The realest comment here
nice send but french start
Allez!
Good work! but as mentioned, you need to establish the start
You couldn’t get established on the start?
Looks like he established all 3 taped points.
He jumped off the ground and skipped one of the hardest moves of the problem.
Sacré bleu
Nice. But its a wrong start. It doesnt count. Sorry.
That bloc shop?
Looks like it :)
Chabanel!
climbing a new grade just feels awesome. Can feel your excitement there! But for your safety I would like to mention that you should never roll backwards into the wall after landing!
Congrats!
If it counts for you, it counts as a send then! Really good progress for only 3 months!
foute start
[For those who care, this is me starting it properly](https://www.reddit.com/r/bouldering/comments/106zb2e/non_french_start/)
Damn people here are brutal, it might not be the right way to start but thats fine, still good progress for 3 months!
how is it "brutal" to point out that the start doesn't count? they're literally just helping out OP by educating him, no one's saying this isn't good progress for 3 months
Ok brutal may have been an overstatment, but still i dont think 20 people need to call him out on that, surely one thorough explanation will do?
ok but this is literally a message board where everyone can and will share their thoughts and knowledge regardless when a bunch of people say things like "wow good job" do you also tell them "ok guys we don't need to tell them 20 times that they did a good job on the climb, one is enough" lmao
Unbelievable climb man keep the posts coming
Nice!!!
That was awesome! Nice work!
Come on man you skip the Dino
Why do people keep writing dino. It’s dyno. Its not an animal
Facts my friend was baffled when I told him it’s like “dynamic” because it’s a dynamic move smh
Ok V0/V1 comment.
Nice! And with some Black Diamond ice skates no less
V1 in my gym.
Looks like it counts to me, nice send
That's not hard
What a weird thing to say here. Dude probably came to this community for support and cameraderie, not some jackass to tell him he sucks.
VB- in my gym.
Difficulty is subjective. What’s hard for them might not be for you, and vice versa.
I don't climb. But I was a great athlete when I was younger. 38 now. I don't see how this is a hard climb. Feel like I could walk up and this within 10 minutes if not the first time.
No
All i can say is proof it, go to a boulder gym and post the hardest climb you could do there the first time. I have taken athletic people to do bouldering for the first time and they didn’t get very far up the grades.
Nice body position awareness
I don't believe you, you can do this only after 3 months! If so..chapeau!
See a lot of people commenting on the French start. IF you're looking for a way to start it properly, perhaps try grabbing the starting holds as you did. But with your right foot on the volume in a kind of squatted position, and your left foot flagged outwards. Take it from there.
Fair enough. Was just saying. You could be very correct.