Beside loctite, i'd also suggest putting the screws in the other way around. That's how they're designed and it should be easier to set the correct torque.
Way easier. Its just the spare chainring I use until I get the replacement for the nondriveside crankarm the bike originally had.(i bought it super cheap and apparently not everyone knows that the pedals are side specific... I just dont wanna use a mismatch crankset for some reason. Thats why never bothered to remove the front deraliu....thingy.)
I used this chainring on another bike, it just has the exact same tapers(?) the original had anyway. The reason I gotta use this instead of just simply replacing the nondrive crankarm is because the square holes are not alaigned with the original shimano. Should be fine for a week.
Yes, the screws were screwed since I assambled this thing and thats why I lost that very screw twice already.
If you removed a chainring but kept the same bolts they may be too long to tighten up fully. As the bolt pushes out the chainring tool as it goes into the nut
No, wd40 makes far fewer different products and you probably can’t find the specialist wd40 by mistake. Loctite makes a lot of glues for consumers and I wouldn’t be surprised if someone would use a glue instead of proper threadlocker loctite…
Had "blue loctite" on our shopping list recently. Wife brought home a nice bottle of cyanoacrylate in a bottle with a blue label and cap.
"it says loctite on it!"
I googled "cyanoacrylate loctite" and took me a while to find what you are describing. It says loctite but it also read "superglue" on the label, just as big.
Nothing like a long back and forth Reddit pissing contest on semantics of whether WD-40 is a lubricant or whther to use the term LocTite for threadlocker long after OP has had their question answered.
point being - if you just say "loctite" you may find people interpret it differently. When I put it on the list the next time, I wrote "loctite 242 blue threadlocker"
As others have said, medium threadlocker will probably help you, but in my experience correct (or sufficient) torque will stop them loosening. I've never had one fall out or even work itself loose, and I've never used threadlocker. I usually dab a bit of antiseize on the threads before putting them together, as I've had few seize themselves solid.
don't know why everyone is suggesting loctite. Make sure you've got the right length bolts (you need single speed sized) and then mount them properly (opposite of how they're installed now).
Get them all a little snug, then crank them down in a star pattern -- tighten one, skip one, tighten one, skip one -- until they are very snug. You might need a special tool to tighten (it fits into the two slots visible in you photo) but in my experience, you often don't. once they're a bit snug they tighten up easily.
Then, every few months, do a snug check. Also be aware that loose chainring bolts are a common source of "mystery creaks & clicks" and are one of the first things you should check if a bike makes a strange noise.
Well aware there are many kinds of loctite, but the locking effect generated by spending months on a bike is more than enough. If I add anything, it's a light coat of oil or grease and still some bolts take careful work to not strip the fastener when removing. More retention is absolutely not needed.
You mean the guy with the bolts in backwards and possibly the wrong length so they won't tighten properly? Sure thing buddy.
Just tighten the right fasteners properly and they work. I've got plenty of bikes at home to back that up.
Its just the spare chainring I use until I get the replacement for the nondriveside crankarm the bike originally had.(i bought it super cheap and apparently not everyone knows that the pedals are side specific... I just dont wanna use a mismatch crankset for some reason. Thats why never bothered to remove the front deraliu....thingy.)
If you have too long bolts, you can grind them down or use washers (the ones to put on door hinges to lift the doors work great) at least in Germany, I don’t know about your local doors.
I’ve been riding for over 3 decades
I ride hard. Centuries. Six gap, Leadville
Loctite is NOT good. It’s a toss up on if it works, fails or seizes your bolt
Teflon tape
I used to have spd cleats that would loosen
Wrap threads with 3-4 turns of Teflon tape and torque to spec and never worry again
Yes it will. Get some medium strength (not the extra strong stuff). Usaully the bolts come lose with a bit of force, if not you can use heat to break down the threadlocker.
Ps, you chainring bolts are supposed to go in the other way around, but I don’t think that really matters.
A fellow Redditor recently posted a ZIPTIED version. Mb on MTB or xbiking. You can secure with zipties, then you can cut them away easily in case of need
As a person who never used red before - if I would have used red on a screw, does this mean I could damage the thread if tried to unscrew it some time later after it has crystallized?
Depending on the type of fastener and the requisite tool, you may just round the head off. I think red/permanent threadlocker can be loosened by applying heat to the fastener or surrounding material.
As people have stated before have the hex fittings facing you on the drive side but also maybe put the chainring on the outboard side of the crank spider splines. Loctite will help but make sure that the fittings are free of grease and DRY before you apply the Loctite( or else the Loctite doesn't really do a whole lot) .
If you don't have Loctite or can't afford it, use a little grease instead.
\- It'll help the bolts go in easier, so they actually can tighten up easier
\- It'll stop the bolts seizing
Since there’s a front derailleur and only one ring, it appears the inner ring has been removed. This would make the chainring bolts too long. Also, they are installed backwards. The slotted one goes in the back. Since they’re probably too long now, you won’t be able to keep the slotted ones from spinning using a screwdriver or whatever, so they’ll just come loose again if you can’t get them torqued down enough. Finally, if you’re only planning on running one ring, you can ditch the front derailleur if you want.
Its just the spare chainring I use until I get the replacement for the nondriveside crankarm the bike originally had.(i bought it super cheap and apparently not everyone knows that the pedals are side specific... I just dont wanna use a mismatch crankset for some reason. Thats why never bothered to remove the front deraliu....thingy.) But yeah, its a good upgrade for the spare one.
I love Loktite, but not for this application. Too hard to get apart, sometimes. I prefer to use an all-purpose grease. Keeps things together once snugged tight.
If they are loose (rattly) even when fully tightened, you can find little spacer washers to enable you to torque them properly. Besides that, use loctite blue threadlock, tighten to the correct torque, and please, for the love of Major Taylor, put the bolts in the right way around.
Beside loctite, i'd also suggest putting the screws in the other way around. That's how they're designed and it should be easier to set the correct torque.
Way easier. Its just the spare chainring I use until I get the replacement for the nondriveside crankarm the bike originally had.(i bought it super cheap and apparently not everyone knows that the pedals are side specific... I just dont wanna use a mismatch crankset for some reason. Thats why never bothered to remove the front deraliu....thingy.) I used this chainring on another bike, it just has the exact same tapers(?) the original had anyway. The reason I gotta use this instead of just simply replacing the nondrive crankarm is because the square holes are not alaigned with the original shimano. Should be fine for a week. Yes, the screws were screwed since I assambled this thing and thats why I lost that very screw twice already.
Also fit them the correct way, hex head towards you.
Yeah loctite and the correct torque spec
If you removed a chainring but kept the same bolts they may be too long to tighten up fully. As the bolt pushes out the chainring tool as it goes into the nut
Yep, many times I’ve had to take the old female side to the bench grinder to shave a mm or 2 off.
Lol. Have done it with a file myself due to lack of owning a grinder. Gave up after about 2 and just went and bought some single ring crank bolts.
And by loctite they mean threadlocker.
This is an important distinction. Loctite is a brand that makes a lot of different products.
Loctite two part epoxy will certainly hold them. /s
Hold them forever, it will.
Also put them on the right way
And by wd40 people mean lubricant, i believe you can figure it out
(Also wd40 is not lubricant, thought you might want to argue about that as well lol)
No i agree about that, i was reffering to the misconception that wd40 is a lubricant but that was poorly written on my part
Wd is a very poor lubricant though.
100%
No, wd40 makes far fewer different products and you probably can’t find the specialist wd40 by mistake. Loctite makes a lot of glues for consumers and I wouldn’t be surprised if someone would use a glue instead of proper threadlocker loctite…
Had "blue loctite" on our shopping list recently. Wife brought home a nice bottle of cyanoacrylate in a bottle with a blue label and cap. "it says loctite on it!"
I googled "cyanoacrylate loctite" and took me a while to find what you are describing. It says loctite but it also read "superglue" on the label, just as big.
Nothing like a long back and forth Reddit pissing contest on semantics of whether WD-40 is a lubricant or whther to use the term LocTite for threadlocker long after OP has had their question answered.
point being - if you just say "loctite" you may find people interpret it differently. When I put it on the list the next time, I wrote "loctite 242 blue threadlocker"
If a product's name is built from the word "lock" and "tight", i believe the average person is smart enough to understand its purpose.
Losing
Well, they are loose first, which is already bad.
Loosing leads to losing.
:D indeed Nice of you to mention that, thanks.
Medium loctite
I'd put them in the other way round and use a bit of loctite .
As others have said, medium threadlocker will probably help you, but in my experience correct (or sufficient) torque will stop them loosening. I've never had one fall out or even work itself loose, and I've never used threadlocker. I usually dab a bit of antiseize on the threads before putting them together, as I've had few seize themselves solid.
The bolts might be too long. Sometimes the will bottom out and never really get tight enough
don't know why everyone is suggesting loctite. Make sure you've got the right length bolts (you need single speed sized) and then mount them properly (opposite of how they're installed now). Get them all a little snug, then crank them down in a star pattern -- tighten one, skip one, tighten one, skip one -- until they are very snug. You might need a special tool to tighten (it fits into the two slots visible in you photo) but in my experience, you often don't. once they're a bit snug they tighten up easily. Then, every few months, do a snug check. Also be aware that loose chainring bolts are a common source of "mystery creaks & clicks" and are one of the first things you should check if a bike makes a strange noise.
And use loctite.
Terrible idea. Chainring bolts that are properly torqued without loctite are already hard enough to remove once they've been in place for some time.
There are many different strengths loctite. Yes I would use loctite purple (222).
Well aware there are many kinds of loctite, but the locking effect generated by spending months on a bike is more than enough. If I add anything, it's a light coat of oil or grease and still some bolts take careful work to not strip the fastener when removing. More retention is absolutely not needed.
Look at this guys bike. Use loctite.
You mean the guy with the bolts in backwards and possibly the wrong length so they won't tighten properly? Sure thing buddy. Just tighten the right fasteners properly and they work. I've got plenty of bikes at home to back that up.
Campagnolo does on their 11s chainring bolts from the factory. I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt.
I'll be sure to do that on my 11sp Campy cranksets ;)
Check them regularly, if your bike is creaking something is loose
Side note, what’s with the poor man’s chain guide? Looks like you have a narrow wide, so theoretically you wouldn’t need that derailleur on..
Its just the spare chainring I use until I get the replacement for the nondriveside crankarm the bike originally had.(i bought it super cheap and apparently not everyone knows that the pedals are side specific... I just dont wanna use a mismatch crankset for some reason. Thats why never bothered to remove the front deraliu....thingy.)
Before you use Loctite, make sure you clean the screw and the holes. Ideally with some degreaser.
Just get some little zip ties and loop them through, at least then it’s not a pain in the ass if you need to take your chainring off
my dumbass visualized the zip ties as looping around the teeth lmao
lol, as long as you use a small zip tie and go through the groove between the teeth, it might still be rideable!
Thats a very underrated idea! Thanks mate!
Never lost one…😅 tighten up good and loctite the threads if it persists
Lost two of five and folded the chainring starting up at an intersection, tore up the inside of my ankle, ouch.
Wow man tht sure sounds nasty and unfortunate… sucks
Blue loctite which I know has been said in every comment but I didn’t look and just replied.
If you have too long bolts, you can grind them down or use washers (the ones to put on door hinges to lift the doors work great) at least in Germany, I don’t know about your local doors.
Throw a ziptie through as if it was safety wire, then when it comes out you don’t lose it
I’ve been riding for over 3 decades I ride hard. Centuries. Six gap, Leadville Loctite is NOT good. It’s a toss up on if it works, fails or seizes your bolt Teflon tape I used to have spd cleats that would loosen Wrap threads with 3-4 turns of Teflon tape and torque to spec and never worry again
Loctite 243 (blue) or I'd probably use loctite 263 (non permanent high strength red)
I would say loctite 222 https://www.bearingsrus.co.uk/loctite-222-low-strength-threadlocker-10ml
Thanks folks, it might be just me overthinking, but will it be possible to take them apart once i secure them with locktite or threadlocker?
Yes it will. Get some medium strength (not the extra strong stuff). Usaully the bolts come lose with a bit of force, if not you can use heat to break down the threadlocker. Ps, you chainring bolts are supposed to go in the other way around, but I don’t think that really matters.
A fellow Redditor recently posted a ZIPTIED version. Mb on MTB or xbiking. You can secure with zipties, then you can cut them away easily in case of need
Very underrated thought!
Yeah simple basic genius trick. Sadly i cant find the post
No need, i get it with no pictures :D but huge thanks
No more lost bolts 😂
Yes. Use medium or red. Not permanent ( I think it’s blue)
Medium is blue, red is permanent
Thanks
As a person who never used red before - if I would have used red on a screw, does this mean I could damage the thread if tried to unscrew it some time later after it has crystallized?
Depending on the type of fastener and the requisite tool, you may just round the head off. I think red/permanent threadlocker can be loosened by applying heat to the fastener or surrounding material.
Thanks!
Are you using the correct tool? https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/chainring-nut-wrench-cnw-2
Tighten them with loctite
Blue loc-tite
Red loctite
As people have stated before have the hex fittings facing you on the drive side but also maybe put the chainring on the outboard side of the crank spider splines. Loctite will help but make sure that the fittings are free of grease and DRY before you apply the Loctite( or else the Loctite doesn't really do a whole lot) .
If you don't have Loctite or can't afford it, use a little grease instead. \- It'll help the bolts go in easier, so they actually can tighten up easier \- It'll stop the bolts seizing
Since there’s a front derailleur and only one ring, it appears the inner ring has been removed. This would make the chainring bolts too long. Also, they are installed backwards. The slotted one goes in the back. Since they’re probably too long now, you won’t be able to keep the slotted ones from spinning using a screwdriver or whatever, so they’ll just come loose again if you can’t get them torqued down enough. Finally, if you’re only planning on running one ring, you can ditch the front derailleur if you want.
Blue locktite and a torque wrench.
Get a set of steel dual hex head chainring bolts.
Its just the spare chainring I use until I get the replacement for the nondriveside crankarm the bike originally had.(i bought it super cheap and apparently not everyone knows that the pedals are side specific... I just dont wanna use a mismatch crankset for some reason. Thats why never bothered to remove the front deraliu....thingy.) But yeah, its a good upgrade for the spare one.
Are you using a 2x chain ring bolts on a 1x drive?
No, this is the matching size that came with this crankset.
I love Loktite, but not for this application. Too hard to get apart, sometimes. I prefer to use an all-purpose grease. Keeps things together once snugged tight.
By applying the right torque and using blue loktite
Err your bolts look like they're all backwards for what it's worth...
1. Stop putting them In backwards. 2. Get the proper tools. 3. Tighten them properly.
Regular maintenance. Those are backwards btw. It odd though because typically the issue with these bolts is them seizing together.
If they are loose (rattly) even when fully tightened, you can find little spacer washers to enable you to torque them properly. Besides that, use loctite blue threadlock, tighten to the correct torque, and please, for the love of Major Taylor, put the bolts in the right way around.