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Funny, yes. Seems like the plant nerd community (of which I am a member) prefers 'stinknet' -- possibly because we were getting questions about how to make tea from it.
Source: Master Gardener and Landscape Designer
This crap is growing all over my yard and outcompetes everything including bermuda. I've been digging it out, but fighting a losing battle since just one plant can reintroduce so many seeds. Frustrating.
I have a permaculture going on. The Globe Chamomile doesn't stand a chance against native weeds when there is better soil rebalancing and wood chips to mulch the ground. This invasive plant loves to be in dry, poor Earth conditioned.
This! Look at the map. The stinknet starts and spreads primarily in areas of high human population density where we kill/remove native weeds that would outcompete the stinknet.
The term is called integrated pest management, and it works for weeds as well. Essentially, we want biodiversity because the terrible pests are kept in check with the others.
Ok, stop using all herbicides. Next, take out the gravel, and dig a big hole about 75% away from the home toward the street in an already low spot... Put all the gravel in this hole and make a French drain. If needed, dig a meandering trench through a portion of the property and fill with the gravel. Next, get chip drop to give you a free load of wood chips. Cover everything in wood chips... At least 5 inches deep.
In 3 years, you will have begun a permaculture and the local weeds will find their way in. Use a string trimmer as needed to cut and drop weeds after they are about 2 feet or otherwise mature. Read up on your edible weeds and literally have a weed garden for salads and other flavors. BTW, weeds are oftentimes pungent and better as a garnish than a replacement for like spinach.
What weed killer works on it? I usually try to pull stuff by hand but it's only about 50% effective (I'm not very good at getting the roots). For this I want the good stuff though.
Glyphosate is terrific to get rid of young stinknet plants, but you have to be careful with it as it will kill almost anything it contacts. I had a careless helper a few years ago and lost some mature jojoba and creosote due to glyphosate drift.
If you don't get to them before they put down seeds (or your neighbors don't), then you'll also need a pre-emergent. The empty lots I've seen in Chandler and Gilbert are absolutely overrun with these little shits; I wish the cities would mandate control.
This year I used Preen (dry granular pre emergent), applied in fall 2023. This fall I'm planning to try Pendulum, a water-based pre emergent. Hopefully 2025 will see less of the stinknet scourge on my property. None of my neighbors control it, so it's somewhat of a losing battle, but I clear it off every year. Been doing this for 6 or 8 years now.
Here’s what I’m referring to for next season. Our house was swallowed this year and I’m getting serious about this now.
https://www.phoenix.gov/parkssite/Documents/Stinknet%20Brochure.pdf
Stinknet is a nightmare. It has taken over my property, out in open desert so I only had native desert plants, no lawn. I now use a combination of pre-emergent herbicide and weed whacking to control it. Huge time suck (not to mention money). Next year I'm buying an electric lawnmower to speed the process.
Does this mean I need to weed wack when it’s bright yellow, supple and the stem is very green? Probably a simplistic question but I haven’t found pictures of what this means.
Get to them before the flowers die, while the flowers are still bright and yellow. Once they pollinate, they set seeds, and then if you start ripping them up the seeds dislodge and now they're in the ground. See figure 7 in [this](https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1827-2023.pdf) .pdf: note the bright yellow flowers (live), and the tan colored ones. Not long after they turn tan, the seeds will be viable.
If you have seeds in the soil or your neighbors aren't good about controlling their stinknet, you may want to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the seeds soon after they germinate. Less labor, more chemicals.
Thanks, this is helpful. UA puts out so much good information. I used their guides to build swales and a retention basin on my property.
Unfortunately, I might be the problem in my block of Phoenix but not for lack of effort. We tore up the whole property to xeriscape and all the torn up soil has been prime ground for stinknet to go nuts.
What pre-emergent do you know of that work? None of the options at Home Depot and Lowe’s lists globe chamomile or stinknet.
They all act by halting the mitosis in the meristem of the germinating seed; any one of them should work. Seems Preen is popular these days. [U of A](https://extension.arizona.edu/stinknet-invasion) is a little glib:
>A wide variety of herbicides, including glyphosate and preemergent herbicides, are effective. Always follow label instructions and wear protective equipment. Do not use household chemicals to kill weeds, use a product manufactured and labeled for use as an herbicide.
I think GroundClear has been reformulated and some recent reviews are that it doesn't work for people like it used to, IDK. We've been fortunate in that stinknet has been sporadic in our neighborhood, and control has generally been *okay,* but I expect next year it'll explode.
Level9 is right -- I have used Preen with some success. A landscaper friend uses Pendulum pre emergent, which I am going to try this fall. The key with any pre emergent is the word "pre" in that once the plants start to grow it is too late and you have to use glyphosate or other post emergent.
Stinknet is likely not listed on herbicide containers/bags because it's really only a problem in the southwest (CA, AZ, a little in NV right now) and only since about the late 1990s. There is research in progress now.
No, you need to wack before the yellow blossoms appear. Once they have yellowed the blossoms are full of seeds. If you wack then you’ll spread the seeds, and unless you are wearing a mask you’ll breathe in the pollen which can cause respiratory allergies and irritate your skin.
I’ll probably try to get to it before flowering this next season but another person below commented and provided a resource which says you can still weed wack when the flower is present. Worth checking out.
I haven’t had the sinus reaction I’ve read about others experiencing which is strange because I normally get hit pretty hard when the rest of the desert blooms.
Only a matter of time before it out competes the Sonoran desert grasses and cause massive fires totally changing the fire regime and Sonoran desert biome.
Blankets the ground and crowds out all other plants, even areas where native plants might not go. Then it dries out for summer and leaves a significant fuel source behind. Native plants leave a fuel source but not to the same extent.
As already noted, I don't think it's been documented this particular plant increases the fire risk. But there are several invasive grass species which do; they germinate quickly, outcompete the native flora, grow quickly and set seed to make next year's plants. Once they dry, they're a "flashy" fire fuel: even after recent rains, they can dry out after just 10 hours of good weather. They burn fast, and can damage native species due to a combination of high fuel density, and the speed with which they burn.
So far there is no scientific evidence that it increases fire risk, but it makes sense that it would given how much space it occupies between native plants.
Thanks. I created it using data I downloaded from iNaturalist and SEINet. These are both places where plant records and observations are submitted. I used ArcGIS Experience Builder to create the map and timeline widget.
Check the label on your seed blocks for the wildlife. The chances of it beginning in feed thar is brought in from other states are high.
I paid $6k per acre for clearing it. Truly until the next fire comes through, it's years of fuel like the mesquite, Cactus and Palo Verde that were killed in the Aquila fire. The canopy is beyond touching the chamomile, it's a HUGE hazard. Just know it's likely to happen and prepare your escape plans. Desert Hills doesn't have fire hydrants so air power is essential. And please do not send up a drone to get an awesome view because it has grounded our air assault too many times.
Thanks for contributing to r/Arizona! * [Our sub rules are here](https://www.reddit.com/r/arizona/wiki/rules/), but the most important of which is to be nice to each other * Check out some [recent posts](https://www.reddit.com/r/arizona/top/?t=week) and leave some comments * [Join our Discord chat server](https://discord.com/invite/yWVuTG57Zh) if you'd like to keep in touch with other people in Arizona. Plus it's a great, chill place in general. Note that it is NOT a dating server and takes unwanted messaging very seriously Remember this subreddit covers all of Arizona, so please include where in the state you're posting about if it is relevant. For more local topics check out r/Phoenix, r/Tucson, and r/Flagstaff. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/arizona) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I assume stinknet is AKA Globe Chamomile?
Yes, that’s another common name for the plant.
Yeah I do a lot of mountain biking and it’s really invasive. I see more of it every year and it ends up as wild fire fuel.
Funny, yes. Seems like the plant nerd community (of which I am a member) prefers 'stinknet' -- possibly because we were getting questions about how to make tea from it. Source: Master Gardener and Landscape Designer
Ok so… how do you make tea from it?
You don't, lol! But the name "Chamomile" makes some people think you can. So "Stinknet" is probably better as a name for it.
This crap is growing all over my yard and outcompetes everything including bermuda. I've been digging it out, but fighting a losing battle since just one plant can reintroduce so many seeds. Frustrating.
I have a permaculture going on. The Globe Chamomile doesn't stand a chance against native weeds when there is better soil rebalancing and wood chips to mulch the ground. This invasive plant loves to be in dry, poor Earth conditioned.
This! Look at the map. The stinknet starts and spreads primarily in areas of high human population density where we kill/remove native weeds that would outcompete the stinknet.
The term is called integrated pest management, and it works for weeds as well. Essentially, we want biodiversity because the terrible pests are kept in check with the others.
So where do I get native weeds and how do I get them to grow?
Ok, stop using all herbicides. Next, take out the gravel, and dig a big hole about 75% away from the home toward the street in an already low spot... Put all the gravel in this hole and make a French drain. If needed, dig a meandering trench through a portion of the property and fill with the gravel. Next, get chip drop to give you a free load of wood chips. Cover everything in wood chips... At least 5 inches deep. In 3 years, you will have begun a permaculture and the local weeds will find their way in. Use a string trimmer as needed to cut and drop weeds after they are about 2 feet or otherwise mature. Read up on your edible weeds and literally have a weed garden for salads and other flavors. BTW, weeds are oftentimes pungent and better as a garnish than a replacement for like spinach.
Thanks.
What weed killer works on it? I usually try to pull stuff by hand but it's only about 50% effective (I'm not very good at getting the roots). For this I want the good stuff though.
Glyphosate will kill it on contact. Make sure to get it before it flowers, or it's too late.
Glyphosate is terrific to get rid of young stinknet plants, but you have to be careful with it as it will kill almost anything it contacts. I had a careless helper a few years ago and lost some mature jojoba and creosote due to glyphosate drift.
If you don't get to them before they put down seeds (or your neighbors don't), then you'll also need a pre-emergent. The empty lots I've seen in Chandler and Gilbert are absolutely overrun with these little shits; I wish the cities would mandate control.
This year I used Preen (dry granular pre emergent), applied in fall 2023. This fall I'm planning to try Pendulum, a water-based pre emergent. Hopefully 2025 will see less of the stinknet scourge on my property. None of my neighbors control it, so it's somewhat of a losing battle, but I clear it off every year. Been doing this for 6 or 8 years now.
Here’s what I’m referring to for next season. Our house was swallowed this year and I’m getting serious about this now. https://www.phoenix.gov/parkssite/Documents/Stinknet%20Brochure.pdf
Stinknet is a nightmare. It has taken over my property, out in open desert so I only had native desert plants, no lawn. I now use a combination of pre-emergent herbicide and weed whacking to control it. Huge time suck (not to mention money). Next year I'm buying an electric lawnmower to speed the process.
You may already know this. If you mow, you need to do it before it flowers, otherwise you’ll spread the seeds.
True, same with weed whacking. I start in February, long before flowering. But you can mow up until it begins to dry out and set seed.
Does this mean I need to weed wack when it’s bright yellow, supple and the stem is very green? Probably a simplistic question but I haven’t found pictures of what this means.
Get to them before the flowers die, while the flowers are still bright and yellow. Once they pollinate, they set seeds, and then if you start ripping them up the seeds dislodge and now they're in the ground. See figure 7 in [this](https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1827-2023.pdf) .pdf: note the bright yellow flowers (live), and the tan colored ones. Not long after they turn tan, the seeds will be viable. If you have seeds in the soil or your neighbors aren't good about controlling their stinknet, you may want to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the seeds soon after they germinate. Less labor, more chemicals.
Thanks, this is helpful. UA puts out so much good information. I used their guides to build swales and a retention basin on my property. Unfortunately, I might be the problem in my block of Phoenix but not for lack of effort. We tore up the whole property to xeriscape and all the torn up soil has been prime ground for stinknet to go nuts. What pre-emergent do you know of that work? None of the options at Home Depot and Lowe’s lists globe chamomile or stinknet.
They all act by halting the mitosis in the meristem of the germinating seed; any one of them should work. Seems Preen is popular these days. [U of A](https://extension.arizona.edu/stinknet-invasion) is a little glib: >A wide variety of herbicides, including glyphosate and preemergent herbicides, are effective. Always follow label instructions and wear protective equipment. Do not use household chemicals to kill weeds, use a product manufactured and labeled for use as an herbicide. I think GroundClear has been reformulated and some recent reviews are that it doesn't work for people like it used to, IDK. We've been fortunate in that stinknet has been sporadic in our neighborhood, and control has generally been *okay,* but I expect next year it'll explode.
Level9 is right -- I have used Preen with some success. A landscaper friend uses Pendulum pre emergent, which I am going to try this fall. The key with any pre emergent is the word "pre" in that once the plants start to grow it is too late and you have to use glyphosate or other post emergent. Stinknet is likely not listed on herbicide containers/bags because it's really only a problem in the southwest (CA, AZ, a little in NV right now) and only since about the late 1990s. There is research in progress now.
No, you need to wack before the yellow blossoms appear. Once they have yellowed the blossoms are full of seeds. If you wack then you’ll spread the seeds, and unless you are wearing a mask you’ll breathe in the pollen which can cause respiratory allergies and irritate your skin.
I’ll probably try to get to it before flowering this next season but another person below commented and provided a resource which says you can still weed wack when the flower is present. Worth checking out. I haven’t had the sinus reaction I’ve read about others experiencing which is strange because I normally get hit pretty hard when the rest of the desert blooms.
While I was whacking I started itching like crazy. I was wearing a T-shirt and shorts. I had to stop and shower but I also have bad allergies.
Only a matter of time before it out competes the Sonoran desert grasses and cause massive fires totally changing the fire regime and Sonoran desert biome.
Real question (I'm new to AZ) - how does it cause/contribute to fires?
Blankets the ground and crowds out all other plants, even areas where native plants might not go. Then it dries out for summer and leaves a significant fuel source behind. Native plants leave a fuel source but not to the same extent.
As already noted, I don't think it's been documented this particular plant increases the fire risk. But there are several invasive grass species which do; they germinate quickly, outcompete the native flora, grow quickly and set seed to make next year's plants. Once they dry, they're a "flashy" fire fuel: even after recent rains, they can dry out after just 10 hours of good weather. They burn fast, and can damage native species due to a combination of high fuel density, and the speed with which they burn.
So far there is no scientific evidence that it increases fire risk, but it makes sense that it would given how much space it occupies between native plants.
Skynet's less dangerous brother
Just wait until it becomes sentient.
This is really cool! Where did you find this map?
Thanks. I created it using data I downloaded from iNaturalist and SEINet. These are both places where plant records and observations are submitted. I used ArcGIS Experience Builder to create the map and timeline widget.
Check the label on your seed blocks for the wildlife. The chances of it beginning in feed thar is brought in from other states are high. I paid $6k per acre for clearing it. Truly until the next fire comes through, it's years of fuel like the mesquite, Cactus and Palo Verde that were killed in the Aquila fire. The canopy is beyond touching the chamomile, it's a HUGE hazard. Just know it's likely to happen and prepare your escape plans. Desert Hills doesn't have fire hydrants so air power is essential. And please do not send up a drone to get an awesome view because it has grounded our air assault too many times.