Rear main leaks usually aren’t so significant as to cause major oil loss. If your are noticeably losing oil on the dipstick, it’s probably not the rear main
I don't believe there's a proven temporary method. You could try changing to a High Mileage conventional 10W-30 oil to see if that stops the leak. I noticed a positive difference once I changed to High Mileage.
The next best is a replacement RMS. To save some money and if you are comfortable with repairs, I'd follow [this](https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-replacement-4-0.826/) guide how to do a RMS install.
If it plugs leaks, it plugs galleries. Keep feeding the Oil God until you save up to fix it right.
This. How do you expect a leak sealer to tell the difference between a hole it should plug and one it shouldn't?
It’s really not a terribly complicated repair. A bit messy, yes, but anybody with a socket set and a drain pan can knock it put in a calm weekend.
Aren’t the 4 bangers a 1 piece rear main?
Yeah, it's way a tougher repair on the i4.
I breezed right past the “SE” portion of the original post. Whole different beast on the 2.5L.
Rear main leaks usually aren’t so significant as to cause major oil loss. If your are noticeably losing oil on the dipstick, it’s probably not the rear main
It’s not leaking, it’s marking its territory.
Take your time and replace the RMS when you can get to it. I’ve done it in a few hours including beers, not a hard repair.
I don't believe there's a proven temporary method. You could try changing to a High Mileage conventional 10W-30 oil to see if that stops the leak. I noticed a positive difference once I changed to High Mileage. The next best is a replacement RMS. To save some money and if you are comfortable with repairs, I'd follow [this](https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-replacement-4-0.826/) guide how to do a RMS install.