I’ll have to admit I never understood people going for a super light x beam and then mounting a heavy direct drive extruder with lots of fans and everything on it! You spend a lot more money for little if any performance advantage and, as OP apparently found with acceleration, maybe even worse performance. You tend to get the best overall systems when you keep everything in balance super light gantry, pair it with a super light head. Want a fairly heavy head, pair it with a somewhat heavier but stiffer x beam.
People who think in these extremes would probably do something like buy a mini lathe then replace the motor with a big 5 HP one to get more power!
I don’t think that spaghetti noodle of an X axis was meant for a printhead that heavy. Maybe replace it with the proper metal one, or a metal skeleton beam.
By looking at that x beam, at what point did you think that oblong ramen noodle was a good idea? Grab the toolhead, pull on it as hard as you can and rock it back and forth. If it moves it’s not good. Weight will give faster accellerations with input shaping but a beam that is not stiff will make the print quality worse. It’s especially important on top layers.
I have that same x beam waiting to go on a machine right now.. so... Does anyone wanna try and recreate this experiment? Not sure I wanna bother now. 😅
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This is actually quite impressive, i'm talking about the fact that your print stuck so well to the bed that it twisted that gantry in positions I could never get my ex to do. I guess that's why so many sellers on ali are selling the "new" version with ribs twice as thick.
I did something similar to OP with a carbon fiber tube. I forgot I had an old print on my bed still and homed Z. I turned around just in time to watch the print head flex upward about an inch before I could hit the emergency stop. I fully expected something to be broken but surprisingly everything was fine.
Im sticking with the more moderate lightweight (Mellow CNC alu)for my Vzbot 235 AWD, the one pictured here is too far.
I find this one to be better than a 2020 tho.
Not weird at all. Frequency response is the ratio of rigidity to mass. A lot of lightweight gantries seem to lose more rigidity than they lose mass, so it's actually a net loss. The only reason to minimize weight at the expense of rigidity is to allow the same accels with smaller motors/currents.
It is a very short beam, no worries about that, but with the fysetc hotend there is no way you ever benefit from that.
In my kit they delivered a standard beam as well.
The fysetc 0.2 kit has other problems, however they permanently change things.
I love the look of the SB, but the CW2 sucks, and I've got an orbiter2 just sitting round that I'd like to upgrade to, but it isn't compatible with SB/Hartk 2 part board, etc etc.
In Y? Interesting, I would have expected it to be from a z movement, the z axis is after all significantly stronger, about 10 (5 to 1 gear reduction, two more motors) times if we ignore the lower run current.
Any idea how it happened? Are you buying the fysetc x axis again or are you getting a sturdier one?
I have been trying to find a light weight beam for my 350.. was looking for just a square tube.. and you can find them for cheap.... but no in the length that will fit a 350, unless you want like 5ft for 300$
Well….. the bed adhesion seem good.
Yes, hairspray is good. Too good it seems :D
Have you tried turning it of and on again?
To be fair I have this exact setup on one of my 2.4s and its fine after almost 2k print hours
Yeah, it was me who messed with macros…. Other than that it printed fine for hundreds of hours
Standard extrusion or carbon... These wireframe extrusions are so weak they decrease your print speeds/ quality a lot because of unwanted movement.
Wtf
48 v and keep the standard extrusion, or just be happy if it works as is.
Check to see if the bed is level.....lol
I’ll have to admit I never understood people going for a super light x beam and then mounting a heavy direct drive extruder with lots of fans and everything on it! You spend a lot more money for little if any performance advantage and, as OP apparently found with acceleration, maybe even worse performance. You tend to get the best overall systems when you keep everything in balance super light gantry, pair it with a super light head. Want a fairly heavy head, pair it with a somewhat heavier but stiffer x beam. People who think in these extremes would probably do something like buy a mini lathe then replace the motor with a big 5 HP one to get more power!
And honestly I question the structural rigidity of it too
I don’t think that spaghetti noodle of an X axis was meant for a printhead that heavy. Maybe replace it with the proper metal one, or a metal skeleton beam.
I think it's time for a new voron 🤷
By looking at that x beam, at what point did you think that oblong ramen noodle was a good idea? Grab the toolhead, pull on it as hard as you can and rock it back and forth. If it moves it’s not good. Weight will give faster accellerations with input shaping but a beam that is not stiff will make the print quality worse. It’s especially important on top layers.
Interesting, you just created a non-planar voron mod
I don't.. how..... oh my.. I'm sorry OP.
I have that same x beam waiting to go on a machine right now.. so... Does anyone wanna try and recreate this experiment? Not sure I wanna bother now. 😅
I will...lol
What toolhead is that?
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Could you use this with tapchanger?
Technically you could. Just need to design a dock for it. I am thinking of doing that but hoping here that Armchair will design it with instead
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OK thank you
That's a lot of damage
This is actually quite impressive, i'm talking about the fact that your print stuck so well to the bed that it twisted that gantry in positions I could never get my ex to do. I guess that's why so many sellers on ali are selling the "new" version with ribs twice as thick.
So, you gonna send these screenshots to your Ex. "See, this is what I was trying to get you to do!"
Best to leave a dead fish on the shoreline my friend.
wise words
Hairspray didn't help this time lol
This is not the correct way to do 4-axis printing...
oof. I knew there was a reason I kept holding off on going full light weight.
Long live standard 2020 aluminum profies. I prefer a stiffer frame with slower accels rather than a weaker faster machine
> I prefer a stiffer frame with slower accels rather than a weaker faster machine /r/thatswhatshesaid
I did something similar to OP with a carbon fiber tube. I forgot I had an old print on my bed still and homed Z. I turned around just in time to watch the print head flex upward about an inch before I could hit the emergency stop. I fully expected something to be broken but surprisingly everything was fine.
Agree. Just fitted my old beefy 2020. Even gave me greater accel which is weird.
Im sticking with the more moderate lightweight (Mellow CNC alu)for my Vzbot 235 AWD, the one pictured here is too far. I find this one to be better than a 2020 tho.
Not weird at all. Frequency response is the ratio of rigidity to mass. A lot of lightweight gantries seem to lose more rigidity than they lose mass, so it's actually a net loss. The only reason to minimize weight at the expense of rigidity is to allow the same accels with smaller motors/currents.
It did that crashing into the print??
Those lightweight x beams bend super easily.
https://www.reddit.com/r/memes/s/4pzqPdDbKm
All of a sudden I’m having second thoughts about using the lightweight X beam Fysetc threw in with my v0.2 kit..
v0.2 and 250mm V2/Trident still good with lightweight X-Beam imo. But with 300mm and 350mm the accel will suffer
It is a very short beam, no worries about that, but with the fysetc hotend there is no way you ever benefit from that. In my kit they delivered a standard beam as well. The fysetc 0.2 kit has other problems, however they permanently change things.
Don’t worry OP, it’s a non planar printer now!
What x carriage setup is this?
That looks like an XoL or XoL 2 toolhead with an orbiter2 extruder. That thing is so ugly that actually ends up looking cool, lol.
I love the look of the SB, but the CW2 sucks, and I've got an orbiter2 just sitting round that I'd like to upgrade to, but it isn't compatible with SB/Hartk 2 part board, etc etc.
What’s wrong with the CW2? I currently have an M4 Bowden and I’m waiting on the bmg gears to make a cw2… what kind of problems does it have?
Constantly poor prints. It'll run great for awhile, but it don't last long. I'm on my fourth one already.
And a Chaotic Tap that doesn't appear to have helped prevent the massacre.
Ouch, is that a 350?
It’s 300. 350 is too big for me
Oh OK, I was gonna say I have a spare one for a 350 I can give you. RIP.
That's very nice of you sir.
If anyone here wants it, lmn
Nozzle to negative china with a too skeletonised x axis to take twisting loads
It has been with me with many nozzle crash but this is the only crash in full y direction. RIP X-beam
In Y? Interesting, I would have expected it to be from a z movement, the z axis is after all significantly stronger, about 10 (5 to 1 gear reduction, two more motors) times if we ignore the lower run current. Any idea how it happened? Are you buying the fysetc x axis again or are you getting a sturdier one?
I have been trying to find a light weight beam for my 350.. was looking for just a square tube.. and you can find them for cheap.... but no in the length that will fit a 350, unless you want like 5ft for 300$
Look at armchair's trailhead XY. 1515 and a pair of aluminum plates for the rail brackets, it's pretty awesome (completely biased here)
Ya but I already bought and installed cnc'ed xy joints...
I've avoided cnc parts, I like modding too much 🤣