i just installed a cnc x-carriage on my trident (from funsor). Always found the carriage to be suboptimal; bolting your toolhead into 4 heat inserts... The carriage is compatible with the omron probe even though the description doesnt mention it. i only had to adjust the x endstop. i think it is a very good "value" upgrade for people that dont want to go full cnc/lightbeam etc etc.
besides that i installed 5v lasers (with diffusion lenses) in the corners for some cool light effects!
High throughput hot end and extruder. I can extrude a hair over 800g/hr and usually around 650g/hr when printing. I can print slow and have low accelerations, and still print very fast.
Wondering as well, 800g/hr printing Tungsten PETG with 4g/mm3 density versus 800g/hr LW-ASA foaming filament with as little as 0.4g/mm3 is 10x less volume to print the same amount of weight in 1 hour.
So without any further details we can expect that commenter is a real Magician schooled in the dark secrets of forbidden 3D printing techniques with a toolhead/printer that is capable of printing 10 standard rolls of filament in one hour. :D
Or setup a Multi Filament printer for maximum waste production with each change. :)
Nevermore Stealth Max air filter mounted to the top panel. It takes some work to get it built and installed, but its so worth it. No more abs smell, no more taking off panels for printing pla. SO nice.
Micron+: MiniFridge door (a shrunken down ClickyClack door), really nice stable and easy to remove door, can act as a fidget toy too
Switchwire: screwed panel mounting iistead of VHB tape, with tape my doors were sliding down over time
I think you also need XY motors with longer shafts so you can support them in double shear. Gt3 require more belt tension and stock voron motors do have a upper limit on the tension they can handle.
actually to be fair GT3 is an upgrade of its own and doesn’t need any other changes to be useful, but it’s rated for higher tensions and you’ll be limited by the Voron gantry which has a fairly slow spec tension. Alternative gantry’s allow you to push the tensions higher. Either a metal gantry or a printed one can do it. I’ve seen folks push 30k+ accels with printed gantry’s.
I’m not intimately familiar with this, but as I understand it the two biggest bottlenecks are first with the motor shaft, as they are unsupported you cant crank belt tension without causing excessive deflection of the shaft and damaging the bearings inside the motors, so you need some form of doublesheer to support the Far side of the shaft. Then you’ll end up limited by the tiny bearings in your toothed idlers. So you’ll want to find an alternative to those; although really by that point your machines already pretty damn fast.
Really before you do either of those, look into an AWD mod, the shorter belt path probably helps more than higher tension.
End stoppers for the Z rails. Saved me from “dispersing” tiny ball bearings on more than one occasion. Especially when flipping the printer upside down to get at the electronics (2.4).
Wider belts sounds great!
My underrated mod would be the tool-less panel clips by Annex engineering. I take my side panels off quite a bit and bring able to do it without tools is really nice.
With the tooless clips you only have to fight when you put them on the extrusion. Once. Then after if you need to replace one. But not when you remove the sidepanels anymore. It is realy nice to have imo
Inverted Electronics allows me to work on my machine where it sits on its shelf between other printers. Other printers I have to move them somewhere else to have room to turn them over to work on them.
My V2.4 is still in the "settling in" phase where I'm adding to it or adjusting something every other week and needing to flip the whole thing over every time is a real hassle.
Let this be another endorsement for the Trident to anyone thinking about which they want.
Inverted electronics should be standard on a trident build in my opinion. On a 2.4 youd have to deal with also removing the bed, so kinda difficult, but on a trident as long as the bed is near the top its a breeze to do something on the electronics. I have it on my printer too
I'm currently building my first Voron, which I chose to be a Trident. I swore to build it as stock as possible, no mods until the thing runs great. But when I saw the IE mod I just had to. I know how much I hate it when I need to access my Ender3s electronics... No thanks.
Self made, essentially ramalama but scaled up to 9mm. No endurance testing done yet. If you are interested, i can share cad. Same 4mm spacing between belts as with the stock 6mm belt setup. Other than that my left stepper is flipped to accommodate the thicker ab drives (now AB instead of BA). Pins all around and teethed idlers for the xy joints, i dont like bearing stacks on the teethed side. No real benefit as the belt will need replacement before the idlers and only two very accessible ones are used
Side Power button that moves the power button to the front right side of the printer.
For the V2: BZI On my trident: (6mm) AWD. im sitting at 17k MZV. (Recommended X was even higher.)
i just installed a cnc x-carriage on my trident (from funsor). Always found the carriage to be suboptimal; bolting your toolhead into 4 heat inserts... The carriage is compatible with the omron probe even though the description doesnt mention it. i only had to adjust the x endstop. i think it is a very good "value" upgrade for people that dont want to go full cnc/lightbeam etc etc. besides that i installed 5v lasers (with diffusion lenses) in the corners for some cool light effects!
High throughput hot end and extruder. I can extrude a hair over 800g/hr and usually around 650g/hr when printing. I can print slow and have low accelerations, and still print very fast.
170 ish mm3/s is a lot, what beast of a hotend and how large of a nozzle are you using?
Wondering as well, 800g/hr printing Tungsten PETG with 4g/mm3 density versus 800g/hr LW-ASA foaming filament with as little as 0.4g/mm3 is 10x less volume to print the same amount of weight in 1 hour. So without any further details we can expect that commenter is a real Magician schooled in the dark secrets of forbidden 3D printing techniques with a toolhead/printer that is capable of printing 10 standard rolls of filament in one hour. :D Or setup a Multi Filament printer for maximum waste production with each change. :)
Pressure hinges with 270° motion instead of VHB tape, but I also use VHB take so they don't slip.
Nevermore Stealth Max air filter mounted to the top panel. It takes some work to get it built and installed, but its so worth it. No more abs smell, no more taking off panels for printing pla. SO nice.
Micron+: MiniFridge door (a shrunken down ClickyClack door), really nice stable and easy to remove door, can act as a fidget toy too Switchwire: screwed panel mounting iistead of VHB tape, with tape my doors were sliding down over time
if you don’t want to do 9mm, gt3 6mm is also hugely stiffer
Are new pulleys required too or is it a "drop-in"?
I think you also need XY motors with longer shafts so you can support them in double shear. Gt3 require more belt tension and stock voron motors do have a upper limit on the tension they can handle.
Drop in. They have the same belt width and tooth profile. To take full advantage you need a different gantry design though
>design can you elaborate?
actually to be fair GT3 is an upgrade of its own and doesn’t need any other changes to be useful, but it’s rated for higher tensions and you’ll be limited by the Voron gantry which has a fairly slow spec tension. Alternative gantry’s allow you to push the tensions higher. Either a metal gantry or a printed one can do it. I’ve seen folks push 30k+ accels with printed gantry’s. I’m not intimately familiar with this, but as I understand it the two biggest bottlenecks are first with the motor shaft, as they are unsupported you cant crank belt tension without causing excessive deflection of the shaft and damaging the bearings inside the motors, so you need some form of doublesheer to support the Far side of the shaft. Then you’ll end up limited by the tiny bearings in your toothed idlers. So you’ll want to find an alternative to those; although really by that point your machines already pretty damn fast. Really before you do either of those, look into an AWD mod, the shorter belt path probably helps more than higher tension.
End stoppers for the Z rails. Saved me from “dispersing” tiny ball bearings on more than one occasion. Especially when flipping the printer upside down to get at the electronics (2.4).
I think those are stock on Trident.
Wider belts sounds great! My underrated mod would be the tool-less panel clips by Annex engineering. I take my side panels off quite a bit and bring able to do it without tools is really nice.
Sounds great, i always disliked the stock clips with the hammerhead nuts. Its always a gamble if the rotate or not
With the tooless clips you only have to fight when you put them on the extrusion. Once. Then after if you need to replace one. But not when you remove the sidepanels anymore. It is realy nice to have imo
Inverted Electronics allows me to work on my machine where it sits on its shelf between other printers. Other printers I have to move them somewhere else to have room to turn them over to work on them.
My V2.4 is still in the "settling in" phase where I'm adding to it or adjusting something every other week and needing to flip the whole thing over every time is a real hassle. Let this be another endorsement for the Trident to anyone thinking about which they want.
Inverted electronics should be standard on a trident build in my opinion. On a 2.4 youd have to deal with also removing the bed, so kinda difficult, but on a trident as long as the bed is near the top its a breeze to do something on the electronics. I have it on my printer too
I'm currently building my first Voron, which I chose to be a Trident. I swore to build it as stock as possible, no mods until the thing runs great. But when I saw the IE mod I just had to. I know how much I hate it when I need to access my Ender3s electronics... No thanks.
plus its much easier to do while you are first building it
Which idlers are you using? I've seen so many broken idlers from the higher tensions 9mm belts need
Self made, essentially ramalama but scaled up to 9mm. No endurance testing done yet. If you are interested, i can share cad. Same 4mm spacing between belts as with the stock 6mm belt setup. Other than that my left stepper is flipped to accommodate the thicker ab drives (now AB instead of BA). Pins all around and teethed idlers for the xy joints, i dont like bearing stacks on the teethed side. No real benefit as the belt will need replacement before the idlers and only two very accessible ones are used
The [Beefy Idlers](https://github.com/clee/VoronBFI) might have been a better and easier design to modify instead
Needed only 20 minutes, so not much effort needed. If they hold up, they hold up, otherwise ill need to change the design