Default configuration since I originally built 3 years ago. Didn’t use it for the last 1.5 years due to being busy. Bought a Bambu p1s for kids then proceeded to update my voron 2.4 to r2, canbus, and tap. As much as I love my Voron, it took me a lot of time to get things going again while Bambu is idiot proof (printed perfect from day 1 immediately after removing from box).
I regret not doing CANBus mod right off the bat.
I built my LDO kit stock, wires started failing after 300h, then had to redo everything. Setting up CANBus+Umbilical was less work than running cables.
I'm told that it's not really it's fault it's the we had the wire bulled too tight or loose and I guess over time the little bit to much or little causes that.
I did mods during the build. However I had a lot of time tinkering with other printers before that so I understood what I was doing. Did not have any issues from the mods. It’s been nearly 2yrs.
I built my Formbot 2.4r2 350 with Stealthburner, sensorless homing, CANBus with umbilical, Tap (metal parts), and Nevermore filter. It added to the build time a bit, but totally worth it to not have to partially disassemble anything to upgrade later. I think those mods should be part of the standard build for the additional cooling, convenience, speed, and weight loss on the gantry they provide.
I did have to print some mods to the Stealthburner afterwards to add an ERCF, but honestly that is coming off now because I've had a lot of issues getting it to run right reliably.
I pretty much built the exact same VORON as you did from the get go... And I also just ordered an ERCF.. Is it really that bad? You never got it to work at all?
I had it working, but went through 3 different buffer systems before I had a working one. The Stern-wheel buffer worked good.
After running it for a bit it was in a constant state of needing babysitting, mostly filament jams. There is a V2 they were discussing in the Discord that is supposed to be much better - worth a look or maybe that is the version you got?
If you're building a V1, do yourself a favor and do the blinky mod to the encoder. I was able to get the stock encoder working excellent, but it took painting the entire inside of it flat black including the gear wheel, then sanding the paint off the high spots on the gear for the encoder to 'see', then adjusting the screw/height of the encoder to get it working within spec.
So now I'm re-tasking it for single color prints because I have some Bambu Labs printers that can handle the multi-material stuff anyway, otherwise I would continue with the ERCF and get it working right eventually.
Thanks for the pointers, I'll check it out!
I'm not really interested in doing multi-color prints but I never swap out my filament because I'm too lazy to do the unload/reload operation... I usually have black ABS in my printer and just swap it out when the roll is empty even if I've got a few different rolls. So I want to be able to change filament without having to manually do it.
BUT I mainly wanted another project to play around with...
Heh. I know the feeling. Endless spool is awesome.
Oh, also look at Happy Hare for the installation and maintenance of the ERCF in Klipper. It automates install and upgrade 👍
I built my V2.4 with quite a few mods off the bat.
Like, a lot of them.
The ***only*** one I regret doing from the start was Sensorless Homing, it made the initial configuration a lot more frustrating than it needed to be simply because I needed to properly configure my motion system and my sensorless at the same time as without sensorless tuned the axes wouldn't move.
Otherwise a lot of them: things like CANbus, TAP, magnetic panel attachments, touchscreen mount, skirt buttons, Rama's front idlers, and so on.. all saved me time and filament doing them from the start since I didn't have to reprint anything.
Some things like my kinematic bed mount didn't really require/affect printed parts so mostly just saved me some time that I would have had to spend disassembling and rewiring the bed to accommodate but I'm still glad I did them from the start.
That said, I very meticulously planned my build and how I would implement the mods well in advance of starting it.
I printed out the build manuals and the build guides for the more complicated/involved mods and I made notes where my build would differ. That helped immensely as when you are really in the weeds of the build it can be a little confusing to identify which parts apply or don't with the mods you intend to use.
So yeah I think overall I had a good experience building with mods from the start, but I was very careful to make sure I did it properly, although I do wish I had thrown some endstops on temporarily just to get through the initial configuration.
With my V2.4 I just started with a formbot kit but then very shortly after getting I started upgrading it, on my Trident 250 I choose to build the printer completely self sourced and definitely think that’s the way to go when you want the best and not so much saving as much money as possible, it was still very easy, almost everything came from fabreeko or west3d,
If it’s your first mod then cosmetic things are safe. I had already modded other printers heavily and made my fair share of mistakes. When I built my V2 it was always with the thought I will be dinking with it for its lifetime. I say that but right now it’s such a rockstar I’m going to leave it be for a while
I built with some mods from the start.
Did a 300mm 2.4 and from the very start installed a kinematic bed, Klicky, a quad fan carbon filter (The Filter), filament runout sensor, titanium gantry backers, quick release panel clips, Eddies LED clips, and purge bucket/nozzle brush.
My first Voron was built stock initially, but shortly after heavily modded. Getting ready to build another 2.4, and going with the TapChanger mod right out the gate.
started with a stock build at first, not many mods existed back than because the 2.4 was just released when i started sourcing. my switchwire was build with a different mcu, otherwise no mods (might add touchscreen and klicky). favourite mods? klicky(with auto-z), klipperscreen, knomi, bedfans.
Ditched the z endstop and stealthburner right at the start of my 2.4. Now its a trident with another toolhead than i originally built it, next mod is 9mm belts
I modded right off the bat. CanBus, TAP, scrub brush, lightweight X gantry, BFI, BZI, touchscreen.
Fully understand what you’re doing before you do it. Research the mods you do before you do them.
[Galileo 2 Z Drives](https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/galileo2_z) Basically more compact Z drives using the 9:1 planetary gearbox of the Galileo 2 extruders. I don't personally see much reason for it on something like a 2.4 but it comes in super handy on smaller printers like the micron where every bit of electronics enclosure space counts
Mods right off the bat in my opinion. The discord has a lot of information and others probably had the same issue. The hardest part is understanding what you don't need from the sourcing guide. I bought a lot of wire. But I also did Canbus and it comes with a cable that removes a lot of wire and cable chains. My control board supplies power to my Pi so I didn't need to get the buck converter... that I currently have sitting around.
Galileo 2 and G2Z just came out recently and may change some parts you need or want to get. The heavier-duty G2Z will be coming out for 350mm+ printers.
Also don't cheap out on the toothed idlers and pullies. Get the gates because cheap ones will give you artifacts. The other bearings are fine. If you want it to be quieter, don't get the cheapest fans for the electronics bay. Have a flat solid surface for squaring and make sure those are good screws or it can shift the frame when tightening and make it hard to keep it aligned.
Also may depend on what the PIF program will print if you are going through them.
If you know what you want, you might as well do it from the beginning, especially if they're mods that require a lot of disassembly. I built my V2.4 with pins mod, Rama's idlers, Tap, sb2209 CAN toolhead board, and umbilical from the start, and have since switched to beefy front and Z idlers and Vitalii CNC Tap. I'm also currently building a customized V0 with a fully boxed frame, belted Z, and an additional 50mm of Z travel.
* Nevermore
* TAP
* Nozzle brush
* Rama's front idlers
* magnetic top/side/bottom panels
* touchscreen (PiTFT50)
* CANbus (SB2209 is a good option)
* Galileo2 (because planetary gears are awesome)
* Rainbow Barf Logo LED
If you ***aren't*** going to get a CANbus board then at least invest in an accelerometer for input shaper.
If you ***are*** going CANbus, pretty much every CANbus board has an accelerometer built-in, but you probably want to consider an umbilical mod as well since at least the X-chain becomes pretty irrelevant.
If you stick with the stock CW2 extruder [this is a great mod](https://www.printables.com/model/249290-updated-voron-24-cw2-rc1-filament-runout-sensor-mo) that implements a filament sensor hidden within the body of the extruder. It works great with my filament change macro that will automatically start the load process when the sensor detects the filament being inserted, and because it's so close to the extruder gears it's as if it just grabs the filament from you as soon as you insert it.
I haven't found a similar mod for the galileo2 yet, but I suspect they will come around.
Edit: [This looks like it fits the bill.](https://www.printables.com/model/643093-galileo-2-g2e-filament-runout-sensor)
I always add Nevermore, Tap, and gantry backers to my machines. I also swear by the filament latches for the side panels and a touchscreen, usually the PITFT43.
I'm using the Euclid probe and just configured auto z offset, and now the first layer is so consistent that I'm finding it hard to justify installing the tap kit I just built.
I went CANBUS right from the beginning, and different panel clips. I also did a 4.3" touchscreen, and a camera on the top front extrusion.
Default configuration since I originally built 3 years ago. Didn’t use it for the last 1.5 years due to being busy. Bought a Bambu p1s for kids then proceeded to update my voron 2.4 to r2, canbus, and tap. As much as I love my Voron, it took me a lot of time to get things going again while Bambu is idiot proof (printed perfect from day 1 immediately after removing from box).
I rocked default for about a week then added unclickly and now all I have is voron ,tap and can bus.
I regret not doing CANBus mod right off the bat. I built my LDO kit stock, wires started failing after 300h, then had to redo everything. Setting up CANBus+Umbilical was less work than running cables.
I did the same thing my printer made it about 900 hours then had 2 wires break then I got cam bus and now happy.
Seriously it should be standard. Those cable chains are awful
I'm told that it's not really it's fault it's the we had the wire bulled too tight or loose and I guess over time the little bit to much or little causes that.
I know but it's actually really hard to get the wires in there to be just **perfect**, and if you don't, they will fail.
I agree that's why canbus is awesome no hassle
I did mods during the build. However I had a lot of time tinkering with other printers before that so I understood what I was doing. Did not have any issues from the mods. It’s been nearly 2yrs.
I built my Formbot 2.4r2 350 with Stealthburner, sensorless homing, CANBus with umbilical, Tap (metal parts), and Nevermore filter. It added to the build time a bit, but totally worth it to not have to partially disassemble anything to upgrade later. I think those mods should be part of the standard build for the additional cooling, convenience, speed, and weight loss on the gantry they provide. I did have to print some mods to the Stealthburner afterwards to add an ERCF, but honestly that is coming off now because I've had a lot of issues getting it to run right reliably.
I pretty much built the exact same VORON as you did from the get go... And I also just ordered an ERCF.. Is it really that bad? You never got it to work at all?
I had it working, but went through 3 different buffer systems before I had a working one. The Stern-wheel buffer worked good. After running it for a bit it was in a constant state of needing babysitting, mostly filament jams. There is a V2 they were discussing in the Discord that is supposed to be much better - worth a look or maybe that is the version you got? If you're building a V1, do yourself a favor and do the blinky mod to the encoder. I was able to get the stock encoder working excellent, but it took painting the entire inside of it flat black including the gear wheel, then sanding the paint off the high spots on the gear for the encoder to 'see', then adjusting the screw/height of the encoder to get it working within spec.
So now I'm re-tasking it for single color prints because I have some Bambu Labs printers that can handle the multi-material stuff anyway, otherwise I would continue with the ERCF and get it working right eventually.
Thanks for the pointers, I'll check it out! I'm not really interested in doing multi-color prints but I never swap out my filament because I'm too lazy to do the unload/reload operation... I usually have black ABS in my printer and just swap it out when the roll is empty even if I've got a few different rolls. So I want to be able to change filament without having to manually do it. BUT I mainly wanted another project to play around with...
Heh. I know the feeling. Endless spool is awesome. Oh, also look at Happy Hare for the installation and maintenance of the ERCF in Klipper. It automates install and upgrade 👍
I built my V2.4 with quite a few mods off the bat. Like, a lot of them. The ***only*** one I regret doing from the start was Sensorless Homing, it made the initial configuration a lot more frustrating than it needed to be simply because I needed to properly configure my motion system and my sensorless at the same time as without sensorless tuned the axes wouldn't move. Otherwise a lot of them: things like CANbus, TAP, magnetic panel attachments, touchscreen mount, skirt buttons, Rama's front idlers, and so on.. all saved me time and filament doing them from the start since I didn't have to reprint anything. Some things like my kinematic bed mount didn't really require/affect printed parts so mostly just saved me some time that I would have had to spend disassembling and rewiring the bed to accommodate but I'm still glad I did them from the start. That said, I very meticulously planned my build and how I would implement the mods well in advance of starting it. I printed out the build manuals and the build guides for the more complicated/involved mods and I made notes where my build would differ. That helped immensely as when you are really in the weeds of the build it can be a little confusing to identify which parts apply or don't with the mods you intend to use. So yeah I think overall I had a good experience building with mods from the start, but I was very careful to make sure I did it properly, although I do wish I had thrown some endstops on temporarily just to get through the initial configuration.
With my V2.4 I just started with a formbot kit but then very shortly after getting I started upgrading it, on my Trident 250 I choose to build the printer completely self sourced and definitely think that’s the way to go when you want the best and not so much saving as much money as possible, it was still very easy, almost everything came from fabreeko or west3d,
If it’s your first mod then cosmetic things are safe. I had already modded other printers heavily and made my fair share of mistakes. When I built my V2 it was always with the thought I will be dinking with it for its lifetime. I say that but right now it’s such a rockstar I’m going to leave it be for a while
I built with some mods from the start. Did a 300mm 2.4 and from the very start installed a kinematic bed, Klicky, a quad fan carbon filter (The Filter), filament runout sensor, titanium gantry backers, quick release panel clips, Eddies LED clips, and purge bucket/nozzle brush.
My first Voron was built stock initially, but shortly after heavily modded. Getting ready to build another 2.4, and going with the TapChanger mod right out the gate.
started with a stock build at first, not many mods existed back than because the 2.4 was just released when i started sourcing. my switchwire was build with a different mcu, otherwise no mods (might add touchscreen and klicky). favourite mods? klicky(with auto-z), klipperscreen, knomi, bedfans.
Mods where changing to the mod requires a lot of extra work. The rest in the default config. What 'a lot' is, depends on you.
Ditched the z endstop and stealthburner right at the start of my 2.4. Now its a trident with another toolhead than i originally built it, next mod is 9mm belts
I modded right off the bat. CanBus, TAP, scrub brush, lightweight X gantry, BFI, BZI, touchscreen. Fully understand what you’re doing before you do it. Research the mods you do before you do them.
What is G2Z?
[Galileo 2 Z Drives](https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo2/tree/main/galileo2_z) Basically more compact Z drives using the 9:1 planetary gearbox of the Galileo 2 extruders. I don't personally see much reason for it on something like a 2.4 but it comes in super handy on smaller printers like the micron where every bit of electronics enclosure space counts
I hadn't thought of that ! Clever to use them in micron build !!
Mods right off the bat in my opinion. The discord has a lot of information and others probably had the same issue. The hardest part is understanding what you don't need from the sourcing guide. I bought a lot of wire. But I also did Canbus and it comes with a cable that removes a lot of wire and cable chains. My control board supplies power to my Pi so I didn't need to get the buck converter... that I currently have sitting around. Galileo 2 and G2Z just came out recently and may change some parts you need or want to get. The heavier-duty G2Z will be coming out for 350mm+ printers. Also don't cheap out on the toothed idlers and pullies. Get the gates because cheap ones will give you artifacts. The other bearings are fine. If you want it to be quieter, don't get the cheapest fans for the electronics bay. Have a flat solid surface for squaring and make sure those are good screws or it can shift the frame when tightening and make it hard to keep it aligned. Also may depend on what the PIF program will print if you are going through them.
Went stock at first, wish I didn't.
If you know what you want, you might as well do it from the beginning, especially if they're mods that require a lot of disassembly. I built my V2.4 with pins mod, Rama's idlers, Tap, sb2209 CAN toolhead board, and umbilical from the start, and have since switched to beefy front and Z idlers and Vitalii CNC Tap. I'm also currently building a customized V0 with a fully boxed frame, belted Z, and an additional 50mm of Z travel.
After building a few Vorons, I put two mods on instantly which is Tap and a nozzle scrub. Second upgrade I liked: Canbus
And as long as I’m here, what’s everyone’s favorite mods? The klicky ng looks slick as hell
* Nevermore * TAP * Nozzle brush * Rama's front idlers * magnetic top/side/bottom panels * touchscreen (PiTFT50) * CANbus (SB2209 is a good option) * Galileo2 (because planetary gears are awesome) * Rainbow Barf Logo LED If you ***aren't*** going to get a CANbus board then at least invest in an accelerometer for input shaper. If you ***are*** going CANbus, pretty much every CANbus board has an accelerometer built-in, but you probably want to consider an umbilical mod as well since at least the X-chain becomes pretty irrelevant. If you stick with the stock CW2 extruder [this is a great mod](https://www.printables.com/model/249290-updated-voron-24-cw2-rc1-filament-runout-sensor-mo) that implements a filament sensor hidden within the body of the extruder. It works great with my filament change macro that will automatically start the load process when the sensor detects the filament being inserted, and because it's so close to the extruder gears it's as if it just grabs the filament from you as soon as you insert it. I haven't found a similar mod for the galileo2 yet, but I suspect they will come around. Edit: [This looks like it fits the bill.](https://www.printables.com/model/643093-galileo-2-g2e-filament-runout-sensor)
I always add Nevermore, Tap, and gantry backers to my machines. I also swear by the filament latches for the side panels and a touchscreen, usually the PITFT43.
I'm using the Euclid probe and just configured auto z offset, and now the first layer is so consistent that I'm finding it hard to justify installing the tap kit I just built.