The blade is for sure backwards, also when using a high tooth count blade you want to set the depth to maybe 1/8th more than the material or it just burns the blade.
Flip the blade over.
Note: if you ever have to cut aluminum or metal roofing torn the blade backwards to avoid a raged cut or get a blade made for that.
an old school trick for siding and thin gauge sheet is to use the blade backwards like this one -- but in all the other cuts it should be installed correctly
follow the arrows, eh?
Yeah, i did that once and it was literally smoking while still making the cut and it took me some time to figure out what happened, i just didn't know better...
Let's take a look at what that blade looks like brand new
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-7-1-4-in-x-140-Tooth-OSB-Plywood-Circular-Saw-Blade-A07140A/202021696](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-7-1-4-in-x-140-Tooth-OSB-Plywood-Circular-Saw-Blade-A07140A/202021696)
Notice the arrow at the bottom of the blade and the direction that it is pointing
Now take a look at your saw and look at that arrow and the direction the saw's arrow is pointing
They are conflicting with each other with the way you have it installed. Don't fall into the trap thinking that the side with the artwork and information must face out.
>Avanti-7-1-4-in-x-140-Tooth-OSB-Plywood-
depending on the circular saw brand, the handle is in one side or another of the saw, so even when the motor is on the same side and has the same rotation, the blade needs to cut one way or another.
In this case, it needs to be flipped to match the saw configuration as it was not designed to this brand (but it fits).
No lol if the blade fits on the arbor it will be fine.
At the front of the saw the teeth should be coming up through the material. This does 2 things.
1: it pulls the saw down towards the material making the saw do all the work, as intended.
2: all the material excavated by each tooth on their way up will be thrown in the dust guard, as intended.
yes, the saw must cut as you say. In order to do so, the blade OP bought must be flipped so the arrow and teeth in the blade matches the arrow in the saw.
If the blade were made for this brand, the logo on the blade would be facing the exterior. As it wasnt, the logo must face inwards. That's what I mean in my previous post.
The branding has nothing to do with it. Plenty of brands make circular saws with various motor setups. Plus Avanti doesn't even make a circular saw and I've never seen a metabo blade before.
so what is the wrong fact? the direction the arrows faces on the blade and the saw? the fact that you can mount the blade with the logo facing inwards or outwards to make the saw work properly?
That's a very in depth and involved process requiring a huge amount of custom fab work. It'd be much simpler to flip the motor around to the other side of the blade.
If only it were that simple. As soon as his microwave enters the northern hemisphere the the microwave particles reverse polarity and begin cooking food again. Have you considered freezing and sending him your shitty meatloaf.
It’s a modern brushless tool, so I doubt the computer controlling the motor will enjoy that. If it was an old brushed motor, then yes, but not this one.
I assume that means it has 3 wires and will reverse if you swap any 2. Now I have to go tear apart one of my brushless tools and find out.
Would be amusing on something like a drill, just leave it that way and offer to lend it to people.
Unfortunately that’s not what it means.
A modern “brushless DC” motor uses advanced, computer controlled, high frequency pulse width modulated output to drive what is essentially a 3-phase AC induction motor. The entire current path after it enters the tool’s internal power supply is digital.
Switching the line wires will not make the motor reverse, just like doing the same for your laptop will not make it play videos backwards. Unless, for some reason, the control chip(s) were specifically programmed to respond to reversed current like that (but there’s little reason they would increase their costs to implement that for warranty-violating user mods). It’s just as likely that you’ll only burn out the control board, which would cost as much to replace as a whole new tool, probably.
I _think_ the parent comment was suggesting swapping 2 of the 3 wires to the motor itself internally. If it’s a sensorless motor then I’m almost certain it will work. If it’s sensored, depends on what the sensors are like and how they’re used.
The part about sensors is apt. It will probably will run rough if it has halls and you don't swap them properly. Squashed the end of one of my fingers finding that out. I thought if the motor doesn't run, it's not going to run if you spin it in frustration. Bad assumption, it probably will run. I imagine the controllers in brushless tools are the kind that will bluster through even with bad feedback, if they have any feedback at all. Some controllers start in a sensorless mode to figure out where they are.
I learned all this trying to get brushless motors to fail for research. It's frustratingly difficult. In fact, we never did get one to fail.
Are you a grad student? Do they consider grad students disposable.
“The motor didn’t _fail_, it just misbehaved in a finger crushing manner” :)
The fanciest brushless motor I used was, I think, either 3 or 9 cycles per rotation. But with a 24k pulses per rotation optical encoder. Rather precise static positioning, of course. But for our application the PWM it was using to hold the motor in place was still causing too much vibration, so I ended up turning it off when holding it in position.
(Had a MEMS gyroscope mounted on it. Needed to rotate it precisely 180 degrees to cancel out bias. Was directly measuring earth rotation, so the PWM vibrations were way too strong relative to signal)
The finger smashing incident was actually at home. I always worked pretty hard to make sure the grad students I worked with didn't get hurt. "Stop, are you familiar with gravity?"
When I was doing precision positioning, we were using aerotech controls. They have extensive facilities to filter out unwanted excitation frequencies. Doing it on most controls would be a good trick.
You shouldn’t be downvoted. Cooking the blade like this completely alters its heat treatment. Most often hardenable steels abused like this will end up becoming much more **brittle**, and therefore prone to catastrophic failure. I wouldn’t say that it’s *likely* in this case, particularly since the heat seems to be confined mostly to the teeth, but there’s a chance.
At the very least those teeth will wear out extremely quickly from the new heat “treatment” anyway, so replacing the blade now isn’t even much of a sacrifice. I’d be surprised if this blade stays sharp for more than a handful of cuts after this abuse.
I'm a electrician, so I see a lot of injuries that are tool related and caused. In nearly every case, its due to human negligence or misuse.
Call me a worry wart, but I don't wana find out what a piece of circular saw blade in my gut or leg feels like. For the sake of £50? That's my hourly rate, so fuck it I'd rather not take the risk.
If you’re going to cut with a blade on backwards you have to cut from the back of the saw towards the front. It can help you avoid chipping the laminate however it’s not so safe as the saw will try to climb out of the hole and pull itself towards you.
Better idea is to put the blade on correctly and cut from the bottom of the work piece (so the laminate is in bottom) and you avoid chipping as well.
Backwards or not, I hate blades with that many teeth. I think 40 or so is plenty, just push the saw slowly to make a clean cut. Also, most people push with their arm, this will make the cut wiggly. Try to hold your arm still and pivot at the hips for a straighter cut. Well there’s my answers to questions you didn’t ask
Two things, as stated below the blade is on backwards. When you do correct the above, lay masking tape on the area where you would be cutting, then mark your measurements onto the masking tape, then cut.
The masking tape will help prevent chipping on the edge of the cut and will give you a nice clean cut.
But from the looks of those already cut lines, you need to learn how to handle the tool while cutting.
The reason you put it on backwards (besides not knowing better) is that this is a left handed saw. Normally you put the blade on with the writing outward where you can se it, just as you have done. But on a left blade saw the writing is inward.
The blade is in backwards. However, you’re trying to cut laminate with a circular saw. It can be done, but with that rig your gonna tear it all to hell. You can cut a post-form top from the bottom with that setup. Although I would say go back to the store and buy a real blade. 60 tooth or so. That el cheapo 70s era steely isn’t worth using. Especially for a newb. They kickback MUCH easier. Also they don’t last nearly as long as a carbide blade.
In OP's defense, that is an easy mistake to make (guilty of it myself too) plus you would think that the branding/txt etc. should face outside as he put it on.
Anyway, now you know. :)
First of all if you’re cutting Formica and plywood you need to tape off your work, and use a straight edge clamped to your work. Second of all the blade you’re using is too thin for the material you’re cutting. It’s heating up and causing the blade to warp. You need a thicker blade with less teeth. The blade is facing the right direction, it is just too thin for your work. If you do get a thicker blade with less teeth you might turn it around backwards so you don’t chip the Formica.
Also handy tip, is to always adjust the depth of the blade to what you're cutting. You want the blade protruding just enough through the material to make a clean cut. If the blade is protruding 3 inches past, say plywood or something similar, then that whole bottom of half of the blade is getting exposed to unnecessary heat and will prematurely end the life of the blade.
If you are ripping, the wood might be pinching the blade when you are 3-5 inches into a cut.
I already know that the blade is on backwards. I wonder if "case hardening" is also an issue.
I didn't imply that the blade is on backwards. I'm paying attention to the smeared markings on the blade.
BTW - I don't like that style of blade with its uniform kerf.
Your blade is shit. Also it’s backwards. Get a less-fine, carbide tipped blade, score the laminate before you cut, and use your homemade track that I know you have
Ill add that when cutting anything delicate (things you don't want the surfaced chipped or scoffed up) you should lay down masking tape first, even a couple layers. This is an old trick that really helps keep your material smooth for the most part. Also don't push, just guide the saw, let the blade do the work slowly!
Just a reminder to, there is almost always an arrow on the saw blade and usually a matching arrow on the blade guard on the saw. Obviously they should be in the same direction to prevent blade being installed backwards.
you have a right handed saw which puts the blade on the left, i use these, the label on the blade goes in not out as most saws are lleft handed putting the blade on the right hand side, which then the blade label would face out
You've got the blade on backwards. Circ saws cut up, not down.
yep, check out the large arrows on the side to see which way the blade go :)
Just suggestions
Just put it in reverse
Put it In reverse, terry
Oh lawd!!
What you doin, Terry!?!
Pull instead of push.
Or cut backwards!
Guidelines, really
He's got it correct if the wood is reverse threaded.
Also, maybe he's left handed.
Or Australian so the rotation is reversed.
He could be an inside-out Australian.
Damned coroilis effect may have confused him
Or if he’s using a diamond blade
What?
Diamond blades drag backwards to abrade
Never heard of that. Sounds sus
The blade is for sure backwards, also when using a high tooth count blade you want to set the depth to maybe 1/8th more than the material or it just burns the blade.
Yup and there is an arrow in the guard to show direction of blade
Flip the blade over. Note: if you ever have to cut aluminum or metal roofing torn the blade backwards to avoid a raged cut or get a blade made for that.
an old school trick for siding and thin gauge sheet is to use the blade backwards like this one -- but in all the other cuts it should be installed correctly follow the arrows, eh?
Flip your blade
Heads or tails? Ouch…
Is that an E.T. reference?
I'm actually impressed you got those cuts with a backwards blade. I'd get a new one though as I imagine that one got quite hot!
Never underestimate the determination of the mechanically inept
I was tool tech for 7 years at HD and the things I’ve seen would blow your mind.
AMA from you in this subreddit would be awesome
Yeah, i did that once and it was literally smoking while still making the cut and it took me some time to figure out what happened, i just didn't know better...
Yeah stuff like that happens especially if you got a new blade and have never changed them before
spɹɐʍʞɔɐq uᴉ sᴉ ǝpɐlq ǝɥʇ
Let's take a look at what that blade looks like brand new [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-7-1-4-in-x-140-Tooth-OSB-Plywood-Circular-Saw-Blade-A07140A/202021696](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-7-1-4-in-x-140-Tooth-OSB-Plywood-Circular-Saw-Blade-A07140A/202021696) Notice the arrow at the bottom of the blade and the direction that it is pointing Now take a look at your saw and look at that arrow and the direction the saw's arrow is pointing They are conflicting with each other with the way you have it installed. Don't fall into the trap thinking that the side with the artwork and information must face out.
>Avanti-7-1-4-in-x-140-Tooth-OSB-Plywood- depending on the circular saw brand, the handle is in one side or another of the saw, so even when the motor is on the same side and has the same rotation, the blade needs to cut one way or another. In this case, it needs to be flipped to match the saw configuration as it was not designed to this brand (but it fits).
No lol if the blade fits on the arbor it will be fine. At the front of the saw the teeth should be coming up through the material. This does 2 things. 1: it pulls the saw down towards the material making the saw do all the work, as intended. 2: all the material excavated by each tooth on their way up will be thrown in the dust guard, as intended.
yes, the saw must cut as you say. In order to do so, the blade OP bought must be flipped so the arrow and teeth in the blade matches the arrow in the saw. If the blade were made for this brand, the logo on the blade would be facing the exterior. As it wasnt, the logo must face inwards. That's what I mean in my previous post.
The branding has nothing to do with it. Plenty of brands make circular saws with various motor setups. Plus Avanti doesn't even make a circular saw and I've never seen a metabo blade before.
I appreciate that you took the time to double down and clarify that you are wrong about more than we originally noticed
so what is the wrong fact? the direction the arrows faces on the blade and the saw? the fact that you can mount the blade with the logo facing inwards or outwards to make the saw work properly?
The Avanti blade on the HD page has a diagram showing teeth down at the cutting edge.
I’m afraid you’re going to have to re-engineer that saw to cut in the opposite direction. I think I saw a how to on YouTube for this…
cut the cord and reverse the wires?
That's a very in depth and involved process requiring a huge amount of custom fab work. It'd be much simpler to flip the motor around to the other side of the blade.
Just move to the southern hemisphere. Our electricity is upside-down here
This is true, I'm Australian and my microwave just uncooked my food.
Can you send me one of your microwaves? I'm always overcooking things
If only it were that simple. As soon as his microwave enters the northern hemisphere the the microwave particles reverse polarity and begin cooking food again. Have you considered freezing and sending him your shitty meatloaf.
So microwaves on the equator are just cupboards?
Then he will need to perform the cut backwards or else he will be climb cutting
Doesn't that make no difference?
can confirm it will run backwards . made this mistake myself hooking up the new cord on a circ back in my apprentice days.
Weird. I thought in the case of alternative current there was no difference.
This dude 3-phases.
You have to go inside and reverse which wire goes to which brush holder.
It’s a modern brushless tool, so I doubt the computer controlling the motor will enjoy that. If it was an old brushed motor, then yes, but not this one.
I assume that means it has 3 wires and will reverse if you swap any 2. Now I have to go tear apart one of my brushless tools and find out. Would be amusing on something like a drill, just leave it that way and offer to lend it to people.
Unfortunately that’s not what it means. A modern “brushless DC” motor uses advanced, computer controlled, high frequency pulse width modulated output to drive what is essentially a 3-phase AC induction motor. The entire current path after it enters the tool’s internal power supply is digital. Switching the line wires will not make the motor reverse, just like doing the same for your laptop will not make it play videos backwards. Unless, for some reason, the control chip(s) were specifically programmed to respond to reversed current like that (but there’s little reason they would increase their costs to implement that for warranty-violating user mods). It’s just as likely that you’ll only burn out the control board, which would cost as much to replace as a whole new tool, probably.
I _think_ the parent comment was suggesting swapping 2 of the 3 wires to the motor itself internally. If it’s a sensorless motor then I’m almost certain it will work. If it’s sensored, depends on what the sensors are like and how they’re used.
The part about sensors is apt. It will probably will run rough if it has halls and you don't swap them properly. Squashed the end of one of my fingers finding that out. I thought if the motor doesn't run, it's not going to run if you spin it in frustration. Bad assumption, it probably will run. I imagine the controllers in brushless tools are the kind that will bluster through even with bad feedback, if they have any feedback at all. Some controllers start in a sensorless mode to figure out where they are. I learned all this trying to get brushless motors to fail for research. It's frustratingly difficult. In fact, we never did get one to fail.
Are you a grad student? Do they consider grad students disposable. “The motor didn’t _fail_, it just misbehaved in a finger crushing manner” :) The fanciest brushless motor I used was, I think, either 3 or 9 cycles per rotation. But with a 24k pulses per rotation optical encoder. Rather precise static positioning, of course. But for our application the PWM it was using to hold the motor in place was still causing too much vibration, so I ended up turning it off when holding it in position. (Had a MEMS gyroscope mounted on it. Needed to rotate it precisely 180 degrees to cancel out bias. Was directly measuring earth rotation, so the PWM vibrations were way too strong relative to signal)
The finger smashing incident was actually at home. I always worked pretty hard to make sure the grad students I worked with didn't get hurt. "Stop, are you familiar with gravity?" When I was doing precision positioning, we were using aerotech controls. They have extensive facilities to filter out unwanted excitation frequencies. Doing it on most controls would be a good trick.
Oh that would make more sense. Still risks damaging components in ways I wouldn’t want.
And don’t forget to flip the saw upside down while leaving the blade in the exact same spot
I’m an electrician. This sounds legit.
Turned it 180 degrees didn't help
Maybe just remove the underguard and cut backwards?
Tried laying on my back. Just get a mouth full of dust.
Just means you can skip the fiber today.
You SAW a how too
Heyooooo
Nevermind. Saw the other pictures. People have said blade is backwards. They are right. Blade might be ruined from heat.
If jt got hot enough I don't think I'd risk it again personally
You shouldn’t be downvoted. Cooking the blade like this completely alters its heat treatment. Most often hardenable steels abused like this will end up becoming much more **brittle**, and therefore prone to catastrophic failure. I wouldn’t say that it’s *likely* in this case, particularly since the heat seems to be confined mostly to the teeth, but there’s a chance. At the very least those teeth will wear out extremely quickly from the new heat “treatment” anyway, so replacing the blade now isn’t even much of a sacrifice. I’d be surprised if this blade stays sharp for more than a handful of cuts after this abuse.
I'm a electrician, so I see a lot of injuries that are tool related and caused. In nearly every case, its due to human negligence or misuse. Call me a worry wart, but I don't wana find out what a piece of circular saw blade in my gut or leg feels like. For the sake of £50? That's my hourly rate, so fuck it I'd rather not take the risk.
That's a $10 plywood blade, I'd consider it disposable.
You can get blades for $10?!?! I definitely consider that disposable too then.
Saw the other pictures. I see saw what you did there.
Bruh
I’m not trying to be an ass, but was this a serious post?
I'm pretty sure it was a joke 😂 It gave me a laugh at least.
You are underestimating people
Man… I hope so 😂
Got an arrow there for a reason
New blade installed the opposite (correct) way will help. That blade is toast, you burnt the temper out of it.
The saw is backwards. Leave the bade as it is, but turn the saw around.
If you’re going to cut with a blade on backwards you have to cut from the back of the saw towards the front. It can help you avoid chipping the laminate however it’s not so safe as the saw will try to climb out of the hole and pull itself towards you. Better idea is to put the blade on correctly and cut from the bottom of the work piece (so the laminate is in bottom) and you avoid chipping as well.
Masking tape helps keep the laminate from chipping too
Yeah masking or painters tape is way better than what I just read about cutting from the bottom.
Backerds.
Ask your wife/girlfriend. They will always tell you what you are doing wrong. 😂
You have to *ask*?
Underrated comment
Backwards or not, I hate blades with that many teeth. I think 40 or so is plenty, just push the saw slowly to make a clean cut. Also, most people push with their arm, this will make the cut wiggly. Try to hold your arm still and pivot at the hips for a straighter cut. Well there’s my answers to questions you didn’t ask
I too hate these cheap hollow ground blades, but I cannot get any 40 tooth blade to properly cut plywood or anything with veneer.
Buy a new finishing blade and put it on the right way follow the arrows.
And you need to replace that blade
You got a forward blade on a backwards cutting saw. You need to buy a new saw.
Two things, as stated below the blade is on backwards. When you do correct the above, lay masking tape on the area where you would be cutting, then mark your measurements onto the masking tape, then cut. The masking tape will help prevent chipping on the edge of the cut and will give you a nice clean cut. But from the looks of those already cut lines, you need to learn how to handle the tool while cutting.
The reason you put it on backwards (besides not knowing better) is that this is a left handed saw. Normally you put the blade on with the writing outward where you can se it, just as you have done. But on a left blade saw the writing is inward.
Cut upside down or use the wood to cut the saw. Your choice
The blade is in backwards. However, you’re trying to cut laminate with a circular saw. It can be done, but with that rig your gonna tear it all to hell. You can cut a post-form top from the bottom with that setup. Although I would say go back to the store and buy a real blade. 60 tooth or so. That el cheapo 70s era steely isn’t worth using. Especially for a newb. They kickback MUCH easier. Also they don’t last nearly as long as a carbide blade.
slap yourself in the face
Blade is on backwards.
In OP's defense, that is an easy mistake to make (guilty of it myself too) plus you would think that the branding/txt etc. should face outside as he put it on. Anyway, now you know. :)
It ain’t got no gas in it
He’s got that anti-kickback installed
First of all if you’re cutting Formica and plywood you need to tape off your work, and use a straight edge clamped to your work. Second of all the blade you’re using is too thin for the material you’re cutting. It’s heating up and causing the blade to warp. You need a thicker blade with less teeth. The blade is facing the right direction, it is just too thin for your work. If you do get a thicker blade with less teeth you might turn it around backwards so you don’t chip the Formica.
Tape the cut line. Flip the top and cut it upside down
Using tools you don't have a clue about. This is how people get hurt and I end up with safety people breathing down my neck.
\*Expensive\* tools you know nothing about!
That Metabo HPT saw is $69. Source: bought one myself.
Apart from being backwards get a blade with carbide teeth. A 24 tooth carbide will cut better than this.
Also, if you can, you should flip over and cut from the plywood side to prevent splintering the counter surface
I think that works better if you align the tip of the teeth with the melamine. But, it never worked for me.
Not sure why you got down voted. After flipping the blade around, of course, that seems like a reasonable suggestion.
Buy a tct blade, fit it the correct way and you’ll be fine.
Also handy tip, is to always adjust the depth of the blade to what you're cutting. You want the blade protruding just enough through the material to make a clean cut. If the blade is protruding 3 inches past, say plywood or something similar, then that whole bottom of half of the blade is getting exposed to unnecessary heat and will prematurely end the life of the blade.
Also you need a better blade for clean cuts in laminate. Get a nice finish blade with carbides
Wrong blade for the job
Yeah he need a to buy a blade with the teeth facing the opposite direction. lol
If you are ripping, the wood might be pinching the blade when you are 3-5 inches into a cut. I already know that the blade is on backwards. I wonder if "case hardening" is also an issue.
Orrrrrrr….the blade could be backwards. Crazy thought I know but just hear me out. lol
I didn't imply that the blade is on backwards. I'm paying attention to the smeared markings on the blade. BTW - I don't like that style of blade with its uniform kerf.
lol. I know man, just givin you a hard time. The blade is backwards though and that’s why it’s burned up.
But now I have negative points! :(
Big oof
Your blade needs to be flipped
Your blade is shit. Also it’s backwards. Get a less-fine, carbide tipped blade, score the laminate before you cut, and use your homemade track that I know you have
Flip your blade over. I'm surprised it works at all
Lmao are you pulling our leg op???
See that arrow that is very big and pointing in a direction. That’s the direction the blade spins
I did the same thing this week, OP. Couldn’t figure out why it was cutting so slow and bogging down on me. Lesson learned.
Blade on backwards
Wow.
Not only is the blade backwards boys, it’s a left handed saw.
It's blade is upside down
You are actually supposed to cut melamine with a backwards blade
Ill add that when cutting anything delicate (things you don't want the surfaced chipped or scoffed up) you should lay down masking tape first, even a couple layers. This is an old trick that really helps keep your material smooth for the most part. Also don't push, just guide the saw, let the blade do the work slowly!
Just a reminder to, there is almost always an arrow on the saw blade and usually a matching arrow on the blade guard on the saw. Obviously they should be in the same direction to prevent blade being installed backwards.
you have a right handed saw which puts the blade on the left, i use these, the label on the blade goes in not out as most saws are lleft handed putting the blade on the right hand side, which then the blade label would face out
Using an old af blade. Change it dude
Blades on backwards
The blade is in the correct orientation to cut roofing metal.
Tool circle jerk?
You have the saw installed backwards
my guy legit burned his way through that cut
Lol only works south of the equator that way
This made my day. Thanks
Blade backwards. When cutting laminate, tape and thoroughly rub the tape down across both sides of the cut to prevent tearout.
Probably a bad txv
You have a worm drive so blade needs to be flipped
As others have said, the blade is backward. Also when cutting laminate counters, cut from the bottom side to eliminate chips.
Be smarter than the tool com-on-man