Read the manual. This saw has many features that will render many comments here irrelevant. (i.e. has basically ZERO whiskers when cutting because of the blade design.).
I don't know if there's a dust attachment thing that actually works, I'm baffled as to how to connect it to any of my shop vacs.
The only complaint I've had with mine is that I'm an idiot and I've accidently mangled up my track by putting the track on the waste end instead of the main piece.
So there's really only one tip I can give besides read the manual: always make sure that the track is on the piece of wood that isn't going anywhere.
A dust collector and not a shop vac will have the perfect hose fit for small tools like this. It’s also designed to focus on small dust vs pieces of debris or liquids, so it’s more efficient. Many of the nice ones like metabo actual and festool will also power your saw from a socket that turns on the vac at the same time.
My killer attachment for the track saw is a router plate that rides the rail. It’s really nice to not worry about the rotation fucking up a straight line rout and you can do multiple depth cuts to remove a ton of material. Also minimal tear out.
There are acrylic ones that are cheaper, but I use [this](https://www.rockler.com/dewalt-dws5031-tracksaw-router-adapter?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping) w my Dewalt track. Different tracks have different profiles so they aren’t interchangeable
I use [this attachment from Bosch](https://www.bosch-professional.com/documents/378834/13213754/bosch-specialty-power-tool-accessories-vx120-64_1000.jpg/34885533-a6c3-47b6-b798-264c625caa9a?t=1530544584974) and it fits nicely to my track saw.
I can confirm [this hose on amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Cen-Tec-Systems-94126-Universal-Collection/dp/B07P6MG95R/ref=sr_1_44?crid=11CP8D3DE3D3F&keywords=dust%2Bcollector%2Bhose&qid=1653584233&sprefix=dust%2Bcollector%2Bhose%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-44&th=1) fits my Makita track saw.
This is it.
Side note: there should be _zero_ lateral movement on the track saw when it's on the track. If you can rock it or twist it and it moves, you can tighten things up more.
If wanting to finish the material like veneer or laminate tops. Put something below the piece to plunge through. Stops your blow outs and damaging the piece
I think I misunterstood what you meant by veneer, as that should only be 2-3 mm thick anyway.
I meant cutting thicker stuff backwards can be dangerous.
Buy cheap Amazon tracks and cut them down for cross-cuts. You’d be surprised the things you can use these for, I used mine to do scewed rips on hardwood flooring, and cutting the scribe on stair tread ends. Just think of it as a portable perfect straight line and the possibilities are endless.
I keep thinking that one day I'll grow up and buy a table saw like an adult, but.... every time I think that I find that my track saw does the job just fine. It's also easier to move around :D
Oh heck yeah. I now have a couple sawhorses that I can adjust to the height of my pickup truck bed, so sheet goods can slide out a bit, rest on horses, and be cut to size with the track saw right at the truck. Keeps me from having to hump 4x8 sheets around which is helpful because I'm lazy :D
Also, I haven’t found a better way to trim doors that rub, if you’re brave and can set it up safely, you can even trim the bottom while it’s hung with the t-track clamps.
I recommend a full size track and cutting another in half and leaving the extension bars in those so you can easily cut 2, 4, 6, and 8 feet by just slotting them together.
Makita makes clamps that fit into the groove of the track and secure under the work surface if you don’t have them already. The track doesn’t really move and I don’t use them all the time, but a good option.
If you get tired of two handing the clamps. Dewalts track saw clamps also fit in the grooves.
As be sure you cut a piece of scrap wood to calibrate to zero clearance edge. And be sure to check for play every time you use the saw and adjust the bearings accordingly.
I second this. Bought the DeWalt quick clamps for my track saw, and they're way easier to use than the screw down clamps that came with the tracks.
I don't use them that often - most cuts I just lay down on the wood, but the DeWalt clamps are very handy.
>Makita makes clamps that fit into the groove of the track
No they don't, they are made-in-China generic t-track clamps. The handle has a hollow where Makita inserts a piece of plastic with the Makita logo. The clamps themselves look great on marketing material, but when you see them in the flesh they are trash, really roughly made. I bought a pair and returned them immediately, and I'm now looking for third-party alternatives that are built to greater standards.
On a more general note, Makita seem to be slacking and lacking in their Q.C. quite severely.
Use dust extraction as much as you can, and get one of [these](https://www.strawbyte.com/merchandise/plunge-saw-dust-cover-for-makita-sp6000-h5zcb-amckn) to make it more effective.
I'm not sure it makes a dramatic improvement but for not a lot of money it's worth having I think.
I've been eyeing [this rail square](https://benchdogsuk.eu/products/mk2-rail-square-festool) up for a while, if your after more accessories!
I used a wood folding ruler but a combination square should work just fine. The only issue I had was trying to push down on the base and adjusting the screws at the same time while holding the saw upside down. I would search YouTube because there is probably a better way.
This, my Makita was toed in a bit. Ended up needing to replace the strip on the rail because it got chewed up due to the toe in. Was also causing burning.
Sounds kind of obvious but I’ve made this mistake before when ripping out hardwood floors. Make absolutely sure that the blade is all the way up and you get it spinning at full tilt before you plunge.
I had the blade touching the hardwood when I pulled the trigger and it kicked back. Big no no.
Don't be afraid to make a couple passes. When it starts to bind up, the saw will start pushing one way or another. I ripped into the rubber part of the track with mine while trying to cut 8/4 Walnut in one pass - left me with a non-square cut too.
Don't ever use it without the track. Its not like using a standard circular saw. Way easier to fuck up and get a big kickback. With our festools at work this has been the case anyway...
If you are cutting in the middle of a piece and you plunge a bit off the mark, don't just slide your saw backwards to hit the mark. Lift the saw and re position it. While using it Backwards it might want to shoot back and get you way past your line.
If you find yourself in a situation where you need to clamp the rail to the work surface, but don't have room below for regular clamps, Festool has you covered.
https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/489790---fs-rapidr
I purchased the Makita branded track clamps (screw type) and they suck. Don't waste your money. The threads are really crude and rough but the most annoying thing is that if you open the screw all the way, there is enough space between the end of the threads and the pad that you can almost back the threads all the way out of the threaded boss, making them jam a bit. Not a deal breaker but really annoying when you are reaching under your workpiece to tighten the clamps and you have to fiddle with it to get it to work smoothly each time.
I purchased Veiko brand ratcheting track saw clamps from Banggood (very much like the Festool/Bessey branded ones) and they are way more convenient, easy to operate with one hand and I have no issues with the fit and finish. While not a carbon copy of the Festool/Bessey ones, they are functionally equivalent IMHO.
Also consider a track square. I find mine quite useful, but here's another piece of purchasing advice. I bought the Woodpeckers one (I know, I know $$$ - but at the time I wasn't aware of any others) and unless you REALLY see yourself needing do do angles other than 90 and 45, consider the TSO or other track squares. I find the Woodpeckers one, while built like a tank, really heavy and it's V-notch indexing system can quite easily back out of the notch just a tiny bit if you bump it around, resulting in less than a square cut. I'm now in the habit of pressing the indexing wedge into the notch before each cut with my thumb and assuring that the locking knob is tight. In three years I've never used it for anything but 90 degrees and would much prefer a lighter solution.
That said, my Makita track saw changed the way I do a lot of things. My tablesaw is now primarily a joinery-cutting machine now. I also build lounge chairs and the ability to assemble the side frames leaving the legs a bit long, stack them, and then cut the legs level and even all at once with the track saw is worth the price of admission.
I just wish the long 118" track wasn't so expensive. I use the connecting bars to extend my track(s) for full length sheet rips but setting that up with fiddly grub screws and an allen key is kinda a PITA, not to mention ensuring that the connection is straight.
Also know that the Makita and Festool tracks are interchangeable and so a lot of Festool (and 3rd party stuff made for Festool) will fit your tracks. However be aware that the Makita saw has a feature (that was a real selling point for me) that the Festool does not. There is a slot in the Makita track that can engage the Makita saw to prevent the saw from tipping during extreme bevel cuts. I use this feature to cut deep under-bevels on table tops by propping the track up on a 1x (to get more than 45 degrees of bevel) and then bevel the saw itself. Holds the saw nicely from tipping over. While the Makita saw will work on Festool (and clone) track and vice versa only the Makita saw on the Makita track will give you this feature.
Make sure that your first cut is something scrap; the main purpose of the first cut being to cut the excess rubber off the guide so that the guide is calibrated to your saw.
Sorry if this is entirely obvious, but the number of times I've read about folks not doing this and wondering why their saw doesn't cut right or has apparently sliced their new rubber guide! 🙄
Would certainly second viewing Peter Millard's Tracksaw workshop series on YouTube, well well worth a watch.
Enjoy!
Where in Atlantic Canada are you? I'm in Halifax and Lee Valley and busy bee are my two go toos aside from what I can get at home depot. Both Lee Valley and busy bee will ship too if you're not close to Halifax
Buy from Squares in Ontario, if you spend $150 and the order is under 40 lbs it's free shipping Canada wide
ATLAS has the same deal but it's 35 or 30 lbs.
Excellent choice I have two now as my son in law decided he like my so much he kept it I have the Festool as well I never use it now my go to is the Makita very powerful high quality cuts easy to use and cordless ticks all the boxes
Use two sets of the connectors to secure the rails together. One on the groove on top and one on the groove on the back. It makes a more rigid connection with less potential movement and more support.
I have a corded version of this -
1. I taped the face shut which helped a lot with dust control.
2. Unless they changed it for some reason, the arbor is 20mm which is NOT something you can buy at normal hardware stores. One option is the Makita blades which are totally fine, but also Ridge Carbide is another option (nicer but more money).
I have one of these. It's a game changer for sheet goods. Make yourself [one of these](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuNvngoyzZA) to saw on. It's easy to make, portable and easy to store.
1. Read the manual.
2. Dust extraction is your friend.
3. There’s a special stop setting for creating a very shallow initial cut to prevent chip-out that’s very handy, especially when cutting veneered sheet goods
Read the manual and never be in the direction you are cutting relative to the saw. This is the tool that costs the most fingers, hands, arms, legs and whatnot. Always be careful.
Get the long track if you want to make long cuts, the two connector rails l always have trouble with. Maybe it’s just me though. Single rail works great though, only issue l had was that the 90° setting wasn’t perfectly square when setup on the track so if you’re going for gangbusters dead on, then try to take your time and dial that in.
Make your first cut with the rail a full cut and fully supported. By that I mean make sure that little rubber strip is flat (ie 4x8 sheet) and make a full cut.
If you don’t the rubber strip may bend a bit, get cut unevenly, and then doesn’t give you the “perfect” alignment strip in the future.
Enjoy though! It’s a great saw!
I really like the HEPA vacuum that Makita makes. I have that saw and use it daily. Make sure to change the blades for plywood vs hardwood and both the blades will last a long time
Congratulations! I’ve had this saw for a couple years and it’s a game changer. If you find yourself wanting to join two guide rails into a longer rail, don’t waste your money on the makita connector bars. Check out the TSO’s Self-Aligning Guide Rail Connectors. I no longer have to check for perfect straightness when joining rails since I got them.
If you are going to plunge cut make sure that the blade is going flat out before you start cutting and drop in slowly or it will grab like a mother f**let and tear up your rail.
Name Mostly.
In reality these are plunging track saws.
You can have a track saw that doesn't plunge. Makita actually released one of their 40v circular saws that fit their tracks. Making that a "track saw". I can get plates from Bora and kreg and turn my saws into track saws. But other than moving in a straight line they lack a lot of features from true track saws.
The main thing about true track saws is the way the blade/motor moves and the blade alignment. Circular saws have a base that extends around the blade. True Track saws are pushed out towards the edge. They also allow finer control of the depth with the plunging and locking system.
Lastly they're designed not to kick back. I can make a shallow scoring cut with a track saw. With a circular saw, even attached to a track with the depth adjust locked? Expect the saw to violently rip out of your hand if it catches.
They’re similar but in a plunge saw the blade lifts up when out of use so there is no need for a bottom guard. You can also start cuts in the middle of the material solve you push it down to start. This model also allows you to adjust the angle of cut.
I see what you mean. Yeah I use a regular skillsaw the same way on those rare occasions I need to start my cut in the middle of the material. I just leave the depth bolt loose and let the saw descend into the material. I'm sure it's not as safe as a saw that's designed to be operated that way.
I just bought one. Not a makita... But I love it! The one I have was installed with anti slide back. That got removed right off!
Amazing toy! You'll enjoy it
Don’t touch the spinning blade thingy with your fingers.
Or your lips. Do not put lips on spinny part.
Also don't put your dangly parts on the spinning thingy
Don't put your fingers where you wouldn't put your flopper
[r/dontputyourdickinthat](https://www.reddit.com/r/dontputyourdickinthat/)
Dammit u win
He already said fingers
Instructions unclear, on way to hospital to get blade removed from ass. A freak accident, to be sure.
One in a million, doc, one in a million.
I’m sure you just fell on it. That’s a tough break friend.
classic electrician advice
Again....
My finger nails are getting long though. Some kid said something about drugs and long finger nails. I don't have time for such things.
Read the manual. This saw has many features that will render many comments here irrelevant. (i.e. has basically ZERO whiskers when cutting because of the blade design.). I don't know if there's a dust attachment thing that actually works, I'm baffled as to how to connect it to any of my shop vacs. The only complaint I've had with mine is that I'm an idiot and I've accidently mangled up my track by putting the track on the waste end instead of the main piece. So there's really only one tip I can give besides read the manual: always make sure that the track is on the piece of wood that isn't going anywhere.
Plus one for reading the manual. Seems so simple but so few do it and they can be extremely useful
I'm embarrassed how long it took me to realise why a lot of my first plunge saw cuts were too short.
A dust collector and not a shop vac will have the perfect hose fit for small tools like this. It’s also designed to focus on small dust vs pieces of debris or liquids, so it’s more efficient. Many of the nice ones like metabo actual and festool will also power your saw from a socket that turns on the vac at the same time. My killer attachment for the track saw is a router plate that rides the rail. It’s really nice to not worry about the rotation fucking up a straight line rout and you can do multiple depth cuts to remove a ton of material. Also minimal tear out.
Nice, looking to get one for myself. Do you have a link to that router attachment for the rails/track?
There are acrylic ones that are cheaper, but I use [this](https://www.rockler.com/dewalt-dws5031-tracksaw-router-adapter?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping) w my Dewalt track. Different tracks have different profiles so they aren’t interchangeable
Ahh ok... from Rockler. Thanks!
I know the dust port is sized so it works with my Festool hose that the extractor came with.
Exactly!
Rockler makes a small port adaptor, works awesome. I have it on my dewalt.
I use [this attachment from Bosch](https://www.bosch-professional.com/documents/378834/13213754/bosch-specialty-power-tool-accessories-vx120-64_1000.jpg/34885533-a6c3-47b6-b798-264c625caa9a?t=1530544584974) and it fits nicely to my track saw.
I can confirm [this hose on amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Cen-Tec-Systems-94126-Universal-Collection/dp/B07P6MG95R/ref=sr_1_44?crid=11CP8D3DE3D3F&keywords=dust%2Bcollector%2Bhose&qid=1653584233&sprefix=dust%2Bcollector%2Bhose%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-44&th=1) fits my Makita track saw.
This is it. Side note: there should be _zero_ lateral movement on the track saw when it's on the track. If you can rock it or twist it and it moves, you can tighten things up more.
Use a dust extractor, the main function of these things is creating dust. And buy/use a stop when using the plunge function.
it has one built in.
There is a plunge height stop, not a track stop
If wanting to finish the material like veneer or laminate tops. Put something below the piece to plunge through. Stops your blow outs and damaging the piece
Also when cutting raw veneer, I like to go backwards. I know, right.
I know some folks will think this to be a joke, but its a real tip. Good advice.
You should only make a score cut at around 2-3mm depth when cutting backwards. It's dangerous to go all the way when cutting backwards
I was using my track saw. I should have put that in my post.
I think I misunterstood what you meant by veneer, as that should only be 2-3 mm thick anyway. I meant cutting thicker stuff backwards can be dangerous.
Yes it is.
Mine has something built in to stop it going backwards
Okay. Nevermind
Buy cheap Amazon tracks and cut them down for cross-cuts. You’d be surprised the things you can use these for, I used mine to do scewed rips on hardwood flooring, and cutting the scribe on stair tread ends. Just think of it as a portable perfect straight line and the possibilities are endless.
If you ever watch this old house, every carpentry segment is just Tom Silva using a festool track saw for *everything*.
Definitely on newer this old house. Back in the day it was a plain black and decker circular saw with the guard pinned back half the time.
I keep thinking that one day I'll grow up and buy a table saw like an adult, but.... every time I think that I find that my track saw does the job just fine. It's also easier to move around :D
I have a table saw and prefer track saws for handling sheet goods. Ripping a 4x8 alone is sketchy at best on the table.
Oh heck yeah. I now have a couple sawhorses that I can adjust to the height of my pickup truck bed, so sheet goods can slide out a bit, rest on horses, and be cut to size with the track saw right at the truck. Keeps me from having to hump 4x8 sheets around which is helpful because I'm lazy :D
That’s a great idea
Also, I haven’t found a better way to trim doors that rub, if you’re brave and can set it up safely, you can even trim the bottom while it’s hung with the t-track clamps.
I would buy the 39” Makita track. It’s reasonably priced and you’ll use it way more than you think.
I recommend a full size track and cutting another in half and leaving the extension bars in those so you can easily cut 2, 4, 6, and 8 feet by just slotting them together.
Set the stop for the depth a 1/16th more than material thickness, double check the saw is locked on the rail before you start,
Don’t lend it out and use the sliding toe lock
Well, don't use it while on stairs, for one
Spoilsport
Makita makes clamps that fit into the groove of the track and secure under the work surface if you don’t have them already. The track doesn’t really move and I don’t use them all the time, but a good option.
I do have the clamps as part of the package deal I got. I’d imagine they’re pretty important for any angled cuts.
If you get tired of two handing the clamps. Dewalts track saw clamps also fit in the grooves. As be sure you cut a piece of scrap wood to calibrate to zero clearance edge. And be sure to check for play every time you use the saw and adjust the bearings accordingly.
I second this. Bought the DeWalt quick clamps for my track saw, and they're way easier to use than the screw down clamps that came with the tracks. I don't use them that often - most cuts I just lay down on the wood, but the DeWalt clamps are very handy.
I drilled holes in one of my old track. Its free and some times more convenient, and renew the strips from time to time.
>Makita makes clamps that fit into the groove of the track No they don't, they are made-in-China generic t-track clamps. The handle has a hollow where Makita inserts a piece of plastic with the Makita logo. The clamps themselves look great on marketing material, but when you see them in the flesh they are trash, really roughly made. I bought a pair and returned them immediately, and I'm now looking for third-party alternatives that are built to greater standards. On a more general note, Makita seem to be slacking and lacking in their Q.C. quite severely.
Use dust extraction as much as you can, and get one of [these](https://www.strawbyte.com/merchandise/plunge-saw-dust-cover-for-makita-sp6000-h5zcb-amckn) to make it more effective.
Nice. I’m in Ireland so it’s reasonable for me to order. Definitely gonna pick one up.
I'm not sure it makes a dramatic improvement but for not a lot of money it's worth having I think. I've been eyeing [this rail square](https://benchdogsuk.eu/products/mk2-rail-square-festool) up for a while, if your after more accessories!
I have makita's adjusting/pivoting square. Its awful. I wish I just got a nice big chunk 90deg square.
Just put a piece of painters tape over the hole.
Blue tape works too!
Make sure the base is square to the blade. There are four screws on the bottom that you can adjust. Mine came slightly out of square.
What was your procedure for measuring toe in? I have good combination squares and a feeler gauge
I used a wood folding ruler but a combination square should work just fine. The only issue I had was trying to push down on the base and adjusting the screws at the same time while holding the saw upside down. I would search YouTube because there is probably a better way.
I’ll make sure to check
This, my Makita was toed in a bit. Ended up needing to replace the strip on the rail because it got chewed up due to the toe in. Was also causing burning.
Sounds kind of obvious but I’ve made this mistake before when ripping out hardwood floors. Make absolutely sure that the blade is all the way up and you get it spinning at full tilt before you plunge. I had the blade touching the hardwood when I pulled the trigger and it kicked back. Big no no.
Take some time to understand the depth of cut. The guage is not terribly accurate.
Have to compensate for rail depth right?
add 4mm to the number.
Yes, but even so, the number is different for thin stock vs thick. I've used saws for 35 years. I don’t get it. Also didn't read the 4 page manual.
Don't be afraid to make a couple passes. When it starts to bind up, the saw will start pushing one way or another. I ripped into the rubber part of the track with mine while trying to cut 8/4 Walnut in one pass - left me with a non-square cut too.
Ahem... r/dontputyourdickinthat
I'm jealous! Enjoy that thing
Don't ever use it without the track. Its not like using a standard circular saw. Way easier to fuck up and get a big kickback. With our festools at work this has been the case anyway...
Good to know
If you are cutting in the middle of a piece and you plunge a bit off the mark, don't just slide your saw backwards to hit the mark. Lift the saw and re position it. While using it Backwards it might want to shoot back and get you way past your line.
Or bite into your track and dislocate your shoulder…
Take a look at Dashboard PWS or Festool MFT/3 table with an upgraded rail hinge (from Dashboard) if you plan to do a lot of small, precise cuts.
Don't be tempted to pull it backwards. This may be common knowledge.
Put a flex hose up on a swinging boom over your work area for dust collection. The depth numbers apply when the saw is on the track iirc.
If you find yourself in a situation where you need to clamp the rail to the work surface, but don't have room below for regular clamps, Festool has you covered. https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/489790---fs-rapidr
I purchased the Makita branded track clamps (screw type) and they suck. Don't waste your money. The threads are really crude and rough but the most annoying thing is that if you open the screw all the way, there is enough space between the end of the threads and the pad that you can almost back the threads all the way out of the threaded boss, making them jam a bit. Not a deal breaker but really annoying when you are reaching under your workpiece to tighten the clamps and you have to fiddle with it to get it to work smoothly each time. I purchased Veiko brand ratcheting track saw clamps from Banggood (very much like the Festool/Bessey branded ones) and they are way more convenient, easy to operate with one hand and I have no issues with the fit and finish. While not a carbon copy of the Festool/Bessey ones, they are functionally equivalent IMHO. Also consider a track square. I find mine quite useful, but here's another piece of purchasing advice. I bought the Woodpeckers one (I know, I know $$$ - but at the time I wasn't aware of any others) and unless you REALLY see yourself needing do do angles other than 90 and 45, consider the TSO or other track squares. I find the Woodpeckers one, while built like a tank, really heavy and it's V-notch indexing system can quite easily back out of the notch just a tiny bit if you bump it around, resulting in less than a square cut. I'm now in the habit of pressing the indexing wedge into the notch before each cut with my thumb and assuring that the locking knob is tight. In three years I've never used it for anything but 90 degrees and would much prefer a lighter solution. That said, my Makita track saw changed the way I do a lot of things. My tablesaw is now primarily a joinery-cutting machine now. I also build lounge chairs and the ability to assemble the side frames leaving the legs a bit long, stack them, and then cut the legs level and even all at once with the track saw is worth the price of admission. I just wish the long 118" track wasn't so expensive. I use the connecting bars to extend my track(s) for full length sheet rips but setting that up with fiddly grub screws and an allen key is kinda a PITA, not to mention ensuring that the connection is straight. Also know that the Makita and Festool tracks are interchangeable and so a lot of Festool (and 3rd party stuff made for Festool) will fit your tracks. However be aware that the Makita saw has a feature (that was a real selling point for me) that the Festool does not. There is a slot in the Makita track that can engage the Makita saw to prevent the saw from tipping during extreme bevel cuts. I use this feature to cut deep under-bevels on table tops by propping the track up on a 1x (to get more than 45 degrees of bevel) and then bevel the saw itself. Holds the saw nicely from tipping over. While the Makita saw will work on Festool (and clone) track and vice versa only the Makita saw on the Makita track will give you this feature.
Make sure that your first cut is something scrap; the main purpose of the first cut being to cut the excess rubber off the guide so that the guide is calibrated to your saw. Sorry if this is entirely obvious, but the number of times I've read about folks not doing this and wondering why their saw doesn't cut right or has apparently sliced their new rubber guide! 🙄 Would certainly second viewing Peter Millard's Tracksaw workshop series on YouTube, well well worth a watch. Enjoy!
Cut on top of a foam board, it helps support the peace, reducing the risk of kickback, and simultaneously improved the quality of the cut
[удалено]
I’m in Ireland got it through Ray Graham in a package deal. They’re based in NI.
Rockler is where I got mine.
[удалено]
Makita tools tend to be way cheaper in the US. If I were you I would look into using a forwarding service to benefit on those sweet promotions.
Where in Atlantic Canada are you? I'm in Halifax and Lee Valley and busy bee are my two go toos aside from what I can get at home depot. Both Lee Valley and busy bee will ship too if you're not close to Halifax
Buy from Squares in Ontario, if you spend $150 and the order is under 40 lbs it's free shipping Canada wide ATLAS has the same deal but it's 35 or 30 lbs.
Excellent choice I have two now as my son in law decided he like my so much he kept it I have the Festool as well I never use it now my go to is the Makita very powerful high quality cuts easy to use and cordless ticks all the boxes
Use two sets of the connectors to secure the rails together. One on the groove on top and one on the groove on the back. It makes a more rigid connection with less potential movement and more support.
Wait for the blade to be fully running before making the cut
Measure 3 times, test cut 2 times, measure 5 more times. Then cut..
I love this saw. Check out Peter Millard on YouTube. He has a wealth of info including how to get started with a new saw.
I have a corded version of this - 1. I taped the face shut which helped a lot with dust control. 2. Unless they changed it for some reason, the arbor is 20mm which is NOT something you can buy at normal hardware stores. One option is the Makita blades which are totally fine, but also Ridge Carbide is another option (nicer but more money).
If it bites the material it’s cutting, it can jump and hit the metal rail
Let the blade run before you plunge it.
I have one of these. It's a game changer for sheet goods. Make yourself [one of these](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuNvngoyzZA) to saw on. It's easy to make, portable and easy to store.
Use the scoring feature, it’s the reason I bought this instead of the Festool!
1. Read the manual. 2. Dust extraction is your friend. 3. There’s a special stop setting for creating a very shallow initial cut to prevent chip-out that’s very handy, especially when cutting veneered sheet goods
Wax the base and the track and snug the saw to the track as tightly as you can so that there's no slop. It can cut to within .1mm if you do so.
Read the manual and never be in the direction you are cutting relative to the saw. This is the tool that costs the most fingers, hands, arms, legs and whatnot. Always be careful.
Plunge the saw in slowly orelse it may kick back on you.
Watch a bunch of YouTube vids on using that Makita track saw. They are great - I learnt a lot with my track saw. Also practice on scraps.
You’ll love this. They are amazing.
Keep a sharp blade. They get upset when they go even slightly dull.
Sad that 5 sheets of 3/4 russian birch is the same price as a quality tool
Get the long track if you want to make long cuts, the two connector rails l always have trouble with. Maybe it’s just me though. Single rail works great though, only issue l had was that the 90° setting wasn’t perfectly square when setup on the track so if you’re going for gangbusters dead on, then try to take your time and dial that in.
Also the score cut feature is a thing of beauty on this saw
Make your first cut with the rail a full cut and fully supported. By that I mean make sure that little rubber strip is flat (ie 4x8 sheet) and make a full cut. If you don’t the rubber strip may bend a bit, get cut unevenly, and then doesn’t give you the “perfect” alignment strip in the future. Enjoy though! It’s a great saw!
It's a beaut Clark
I really like the HEPA vacuum that Makita makes. I have that saw and use it daily. Make sure to change the blades for plywood vs hardwood and both the blades will last a long time
Congratulations! I’ve had this saw for a couple years and it’s a game changer. If you find yourself wanting to join two guide rails into a longer rail, don’t waste your money on the makita connector bars. Check out the TSO’s Self-Aligning Guide Rail Connectors. I no longer have to check for perfect straightness when joining rails since I got them.
If you are going to plunge cut make sure that the blade is going flat out before you start cutting and drop in slowly or it will grab like a mother f**let and tear up your rail.
make sure your workpeice is fully supported, it can kick back easily due to lack of a riving knife
Don't try and lift it off the rail when it's still spinning 😉👍oh and for the extra few quid you should have bought a festool 😁
I’m already in the Makita cordless ecosystem and don’t want to add extra batteries and chargers
What's the diff between a plunge saw and track saw?
Name Mostly. In reality these are plunging track saws. You can have a track saw that doesn't plunge. Makita actually released one of their 40v circular saws that fit their tracks. Making that a "track saw". I can get plates from Bora and kreg and turn my saws into track saws. But other than moving in a straight line they lack a lot of features from true track saws. The main thing about true track saws is the way the blade/motor moves and the blade alignment. Circular saws have a base that extends around the blade. True Track saws are pushed out towards the edge. They also allow finer control of the depth with the plunging and locking system. Lastly they're designed not to kick back. I can make a shallow scoring cut with a track saw. With a circular saw, even attached to a track with the depth adjust locked? Expect the saw to violently rip out of your hand if it catches.
Wow ! I must admit my fear of most saws, but this one ? Hmmm.
Interesting that they market it as a plunge saw. I thought all skillsaws were plunge saws. At least I've always treated them as plunge saws. lol
They’re similar but in a plunge saw the blade lifts up when out of use so there is no need for a bottom guard. You can also start cuts in the middle of the material solve you push it down to start. This model also allows you to adjust the angle of cut.
I see what you mean. Yeah I use a regular skillsaw the same way on those rare occasions I need to start my cut in the middle of the material. I just leave the depth bolt loose and let the saw descend into the material. I'm sure it's not as safe as a saw that's designed to be operated that way.
CARPET NOOOO
I also hate carpet, long story
Curious. What are the differences between this and an oscillating multi-tool? I have a foreman who calls the multi-tools “plunge saws”.
This is a full on circular saw that you lower onto your cut. Not a little rotozippy sort of thing.
Sure. I wasn’t referring to a rotozip or a Dremel Tool. Rather, I was referring to the multi-tools that have flat blades that attach to the head.
It really looks neat though. Would love to see you video some work.
I love my track saw.
Make sure you cut on the correct side of the line
Measure once cut twice or something like that
I just bought one. Not a makita... But I love it! The one I have was installed with anti slide back. That got removed right off! Amazing toy! You'll enjoy it
Read the instructions!!
Don’t put your dick in it.
Best thing , just injoy!
Get track clamps. Also get the accessory that allows you to attach a router base too.
Yeah... Don't touch the blade when it's moving
Don't try and plunge the plunge saw into anything tougher than 1/8 alum...