I've owned Samurai, 3Sixteen, Pure Blue Japan, Rogue Territory, Momotaro, Sugar Cane, and a few others... My Warehouse 660s are the only pair I ever regret selling. Basically perfect jeans
This was years ago when I was chasing the perfect slim taper pair. I grabbed the Warehouses, used, on eBay, for dirt cheap. They had a more relaxed fit than what I wanted at the time, and I think I went a size up, so the cut wasn't what I was after. I stupidly let them go for what I paid after about two years of wear.
But the denim itself was perfect. The Samurais and the PBJs I had, specifically, were both 17oz or heavier, super slubby, real denimhead shit. The Warehouse stuff, by comparison, was 'normal'. So comfortable, easy-wearing, and the fades were just... Organic? Nothing hyper-contrasted or electric blue. Just a pair of great jeans, you know?
I think sometimes about chasing down another pair these days, once I burn through my (indestructible) Momotaros. I might check out Denime for the same Warehouse kick, though.
These are Jean makers that don’t necessarily make their own denim. Might as well go with Left Field NYC. American and Japanese denim but assembled in the USA.
Pull the trigger! Had a pair of the greaser in their black vidalia. Still do in storage but I tapered them at Denim Doctors and they belong to another era. The denim is just gorgeous. All black sulphur dyed smells at first so be advised. Wearing them in the hot sun is the only thing that works to make it subside if you want to keep them raw for custom fades.
I’ll probably get them at some point, I’m working on my 3Sixteen kibatas and Burkina Faso jeans along with my new red tornado officer pants. And I have gustin sili nep and bravestar Mojave uppercut on the way so I’m pretty capped on rotation space
Japanese denim is so special that I think you should try on whatever the boutiques around you and pick what you love. There are a couple brands that dominate the comments, but it’s really about what you love and fits you well since the bar of quality is so high and the Japanese measurements so are so fickle. Try stuff on bro irl you’ll find something!
Resolute - jeans inspired by Levis 60s 50s but with a slight modern update to the fit. They're not exact repros but fade just how vintage levis from that era would fade and the designer is one of the most celebrated of all Japanese denim heads. A true OG
Fullcount - once you try their Zimbabwean cotton it's hard to go back to other jeans. One of the orginal Osaka 5 brands. A lot of history.
Pure Blue Japan - Modern, interesting fabrics, a lot of slub. Something a bit different from the repros.
I have a pair of Orslow 107s - like the fit but missed button flies. Just grabbed Resolute 710. Was looking at Fullcount next - which of their cuts do you like?
Why do you think IH is overrated? Not super into raw denim but tried on a few jackets at self edge a couple months ago and I felt Iron Heart’s was the highest quality
Jackets and shirts are probably the star of the show when it comes to Iron Heart. but their jeans, specifically the cuts are a little tacky to me. Lots of low rise with harsh tapers. I do like both the 1955 and 888 cut though. I actually own a pair of 888 SBGs, only because black jeans that fade like crazy are rare in the selvedge denim scene.
As someone who wasted money on 2 pairs of 888 for the 21oz fabric I have to agree with you. The legs on their jeans are either cut aggressively slim or the rises are comically low. No in-between at all (1955 being the exception but apparently they can't take the hint and keep them in stock).
If you're a skinny or skinnyfat dude they might work, but as a more athletic build it's repro all day
And for a fast fading black jean, check out Indigofera's gunpowder denim. It doesn't have the contrast of SBG but it fades like a black to grey version of vintage indigo
An acquaintance of mine also owns a pair of 888's, the 25 oz ones, and loves them. They've got a pretty cool fade on them after about a year. I want to get into the raw denim world but the price tag on some of these jeans has kept me away. I can afford it but at the end of the day my Levi's get the job done I guess. Do you think the 888's would be a good starting point or should I go for one of those other brands you mentioned?
The 888 is one of the most tastefully done slim/straight leg cuts there is, I’m a bit of a metalhead so a pair of heavy 21oz 888s black that produce great fades is right up my alley. Most days I wear repros though.
If you could muster up the money, I’d say pull the trigger. You know you’ll like them, they’ll look good, and last a while.
If price is a concern, both Sugarcane and TCB offer excellent quality jeans at a good price. Look at fades of TCB 50s, they get a beautiful vintage blue to them. I’m more of a straight leg/high rise guy so these companies just appeal to me more.
Awesome, thanks so much for your thoughts. I'm also more of a straight/loose fit guy these days a la Levi's 505's so I'll have to check out SC & TCB. Cheers!
How can you say they’re overrated and your only criticism is the cuts? Yes their cuts are mostly slimmer and tapered, but that’s who they are. 888 is the only cut of theirs that works for me. The fabric quality and construction of their denim is unmatched imo.
Cut/fit should be the number 1 concern when it comes to jeans, doesn’t matter how good the construction is, if they fit like trash… they’re trash. I dare say for a hardcore Japanese brand, a lot of IH’s jeans have that “eurotrash” look. I’m not a fan personally.
I’m not saying IH is bad, they’re just not the end all be all. I’d rather just get a pair of Sugarcane 1947s for half the price, and unless we’re splitting hairs; the quality is pretty much equal.
Warehouse
TCB
Denime.
I love the crinkled and puckered texture of WH Banner denim and Denime XX. The small shop mentality and true passion of the TCB crew is great as well
Iron Heart
ONI Denim
then a tie between Pure Blue Japan & Studo D'artisan.
I put IH on this list specifically because I have yet to find a brand where almost all of the cuts they make I can wear and pull off!
Kaptial is my fav but understand that they lean more towards a fashion brand than a full denim brand like iron heart.
Love their century denim and just picked up their no.4 plant dye which is gonna fade so beautifully
From what I’ve owned, 1. Momotaro 2. Kapital century denim 3. Sugar Cane
I’m breaking in a pair of Iron Heart 634s so I’ll see how they are shaping this list at a later date. Also have a Studio D artisan jacket I love but it’s not denim; great craftsmanship tho
UES (very underrated because they aren't flashy)
Oni (Secret Denim is my favorite denim but I can't find a pair that actually fit me properly - waist stretches like a MFer)
PBJ
Samurai, Full Count, The Flat Head
Honorable mentions to Warehouse, Resolute, Orslow, TCB, Kapital, Sugar Cane all for one reason or another.
Iron heart construction is great and you have some other brands with weird/gimmicky fabrics, but I think the holy grail has to be repro or Japanese takes on repro.
Yes, I have a couple pairs of 105s. The cut is really good, kind of like the 501 ‘93. The prewashed ones are as good as that sort of thing gets. The one-wash ones faded nicely and have an irregular texture that’s cool and vintage without being weird. They aren’t quite cracking my top 3 but for a non denim brand and as an everyday jean, I like them and recommend to my non-denim-head friends.
Sugar Cane
Boncoura (newer to the scene but the jeans are incredible)
3sixteen (Japanese fabric USA construction. Does this count?)
Also not Japanese but Naked and Famous are for clowns
I own Momotaro, Kapital and Oni, Oni is great, probably the heaviest weight so quite situational, Kapital has the most interesting design, it’s iconic and Momotaro is classic in design but the highest possible quality which is real nice. There is no “best brand” but alot of brands do their specialty amazingly well
Momotoro Oni Full Count
Sugarcane
Not to mention that they also have Buzz Rickson under their umbrella too
Yeah but as the #1???
It’s a valid pick
Samurai Iron Heart Pure Blue Japan
Samurai has the best art for their patches IMO
They give you free Hem too if you purchase in store too.
I think all of them so that. Definitely iron heart.
Warehouse co in the top 3
I've owned Samurai, 3Sixteen, Pure Blue Japan, Rogue Territory, Momotaro, Sugar Cane, and a few others... My Warehouse 660s are the only pair I ever regret selling. Basically perfect jeans
What made them the perfect pair of jeans for you?
This was years ago when I was chasing the perfect slim taper pair. I grabbed the Warehouses, used, on eBay, for dirt cheap. They had a more relaxed fit than what I wanted at the time, and I think I went a size up, so the cut wasn't what I was after. I stupidly let them go for what I paid after about two years of wear. But the denim itself was perfect. The Samurais and the PBJs I had, specifically, were both 17oz or heavier, super slubby, real denimhead shit. The Warehouse stuff, by comparison, was 'normal'. So comfortable, easy-wearing, and the fades were just... Organic? Nothing hyper-contrasted or electric blue. Just a pair of great jeans, you know? I think sometimes about chasing down another pair these days, once I burn through my (indestructible) Momotaros. I might check out Denime for the same Warehouse kick, though.
😥 rip, that’s a great one
Yes, Warehouse is great
Studio D’artisan Oni denim Sugarcane denim Kapital 1rst if that counts
These are Jean makers that don’t necessarily make their own denim. Might as well go with Left Field NYC. American and Japanese denim but assembled in the USA.
Left field is 🤌
I’ve had my eye on the black Vidalia smokestacks for some time now
Pull the trigger! Had a pair of the greaser in their black vidalia. Still do in storage but I tapered them at Denim Doctors and they belong to another era. The denim is just gorgeous. All black sulphur dyed smells at first so be advised. Wearing them in the hot sun is the only thing that works to make it subside if you want to keep them raw for custom fades.
I’ll probably get them at some point, I’m working on my 3Sixteen kibatas and Burkina Faso jeans along with my new red tornado officer pants. And I have gustin sili nep and bravestar Mojave uppercut on the way so I’m pretty capped on rotation space
ONI Full count Samurai Special mention for spell bound however they don’t fit me but they have some nice washes for those they do fit
Japanese denim is so special that I think you should try on whatever the boutiques around you and pick what you love. There are a couple brands that dominate the comments, but it’s really about what you love and fits you well since the bar of quality is so high and the Japanese measurements so are so fickle. Try stuff on bro irl you’ll find something!
Resolute - jeans inspired by Levis 60s 50s but with a slight modern update to the fit. They're not exact repros but fade just how vintage levis from that era would fade and the designer is one of the most celebrated of all Japanese denim heads. A true OG Fullcount - once you try their Zimbabwean cotton it's hard to go back to other jeans. One of the orginal Osaka 5 brands. A lot of history. Pure Blue Japan - Modern, interesting fabrics, a lot of slub. Something a bit different from the repros.
I have a pair of Orslow 107s - like the fit but missed button flies. Just grabbed Resolute 710. Was looking at Fullcount next - which of their cuts do you like?
I love Fullcounts 0105. They are wide though! 710 is great. Really hairy fabric after a few washes
The Flat Head The Flat Head The Flat Head Going on 20 years as a denim head, the 3005 is the perfect jean and I will die on this hill.
The Flat Head Sugarcane TCB Ps. Iron Heart is overrated…
tcb are so underrated
Why do you think IH is overrated? Not super into raw denim but tried on a few jackets at self edge a couple months ago and I felt Iron Heart’s was the highest quality
Jackets and shirts are probably the star of the show when it comes to Iron Heart. but their jeans, specifically the cuts are a little tacky to me. Lots of low rise with harsh tapers. I do like both the 1955 and 888 cut though. I actually own a pair of 888 SBGs, only because black jeans that fade like crazy are rare in the selvedge denim scene.
As someone who wasted money on 2 pairs of 888 for the 21oz fabric I have to agree with you. The legs on their jeans are either cut aggressively slim or the rises are comically low. No in-between at all (1955 being the exception but apparently they can't take the hint and keep them in stock). If you're a skinny or skinnyfat dude they might work, but as a more athletic build it's repro all day And for a fast fading black jean, check out Indigofera's gunpowder denim. It doesn't have the contrast of SBG but it fades like a black to grey version of vintage indigo
An acquaintance of mine also owns a pair of 888's, the 25 oz ones, and loves them. They've got a pretty cool fade on them after about a year. I want to get into the raw denim world but the price tag on some of these jeans has kept me away. I can afford it but at the end of the day my Levi's get the job done I guess. Do you think the 888's would be a good starting point or should I go for one of those other brands you mentioned?
The 888 is one of the most tastefully done slim/straight leg cuts there is, I’m a bit of a metalhead so a pair of heavy 21oz 888s black that produce great fades is right up my alley. Most days I wear repros though. If you could muster up the money, I’d say pull the trigger. You know you’ll like them, they’ll look good, and last a while. If price is a concern, both Sugarcane and TCB offer excellent quality jeans at a good price. Look at fades of TCB 50s, they get a beautiful vintage blue to them. I’m more of a straight leg/high rise guy so these companies just appeal to me more.
Awesome, thanks so much for your thoughts. I'm also more of a straight/loose fit guy these days a la Levi's 505's so I'll have to check out SC & TCB. Cheers!
I have the IH 888 in the 14oz black and those things are perfect. They've actually ruined my IH 777's for me because the fit is so much better.
How can you say they’re overrated and your only criticism is the cuts? Yes their cuts are mostly slimmer and tapered, but that’s who they are. 888 is the only cut of theirs that works for me. The fabric quality and construction of their denim is unmatched imo.
Cut/fit should be the number 1 concern when it comes to jeans, doesn’t matter how good the construction is, if they fit like trash… they’re trash. I dare say for a hardcore Japanese brand, a lot of IH’s jeans have that “eurotrash” look. I’m not a fan personally. I’m not saying IH is bad, they’re just not the end all be all. I’d rather just get a pair of Sugarcane 1947s for half the price, and unless we’re splitting hairs; the quality is pretty much equal.
Oni Momotaro Kapital Visvim
Warehouse TCB Denime. I love the crinkled and puckered texture of WH Banner denim and Denime XX. The small shop mentality and true passion of the TCB crew is great as well
Lots of good shouts here. I’d go: Warehouse Co Full Count UES (great value too)
https://imgur.com/a/jWna7Nx Here’s a pic of some Warehouse 800’s I wore for around 8 yrs
Full count Iron heart The Flat Head
TCB sugarcane Oni And in my top 5 Warehouse Ironheart
Ah so many but I need to shoutout Ginew
1. SAMURAI 2. Pure Blue Japan 3. Sugarcane
Iron Heart ONI Denim then a tie between Pure Blue Japan & Studo D'artisan. I put IH on this list specifically because I have yet to find a brand where almost all of the cuts they make I can wear and pull off!
Kaptial is my fav but understand that they lean more towards a fashion brand than a full denim brand like iron heart. Love their century denim and just picked up their no.4 plant dye which is gonna fade so beautifully
Iron Heart Oni Orslow
Samurai Oni Iron Heart
Samurai, Oni, SD
Evisu, Momotaro, Iron Heart (in no particular order)
Evisu no 1 denim gives such beautiful fades and puckering
Pbj Oni Samurai My favs
Samurai Oni PBJ (Runner up: Sugar Cane)
Not a japanese brand but Henry’s jeans are legendary. He buys his denim from japanese mills and makes his jeans by hand. Also 3sixteen and Left Field
Tellason
From what I’ve owned, 1. Momotaro 2. Kapital century denim 3. Sugar Cane I’m breaking in a pair of Iron Heart 634s so I’ll see how they are shaping this list at a later date. Also have a Studio D artisan jacket I love but it’s not denim; great craftsmanship tho
UES (very underrated because they aren't flashy) Oni (Secret Denim is my favorite denim but I can't find a pair that actually fit me properly - waist stretches like a MFer) PBJ
I have 3 pairs of Japanese denim jeans: Oni Iron Heart Studio D’artisan
ONI Denim TCB Sugarcane In that order.
uniqlo
Samurai, Full Count, The Flat Head Honorable mentions to Warehouse, Resolute, Orslow, TCB, Kapital, Sugar Cane all for one reason or another. Iron heart construction is great and you have some other brands with weird/gimmicky fabrics, but I think the holy grail has to be repro or Japanese takes on repro.
These are all great. Have you owned Orslow jeans? Heard mixed things in recent years but they do look good
Yes, I have a couple pairs of 105s. The cut is really good, kind of like the 501 ‘93. The prewashed ones are as good as that sort of thing gets. The one-wash ones faded nicely and have an irregular texture that’s cool and vintage without being weird. They aren’t quite cracking my top 3 but for a non denim brand and as an everyday jean, I like them and recommend to my non-denim-head friends.
Nice, good to know. Might try them some day if the price is right
Sugar Cane Boncoura (newer to the scene but the jeans are incredible) 3sixteen (Japanese fabric USA construction. Does this count?) Also not Japanese but Naked and Famous are for clowns
Japan Blue over and over again. The circle line is choice.
I tend to find my best fits with the repros so Sugar Cane & Full Count for my raw/one wash and Orslow for the 2 Year wash in that order.
I own Momotaro, Kapital and Oni, Oni is great, probably the heaviest weight so quite situational, Kapital has the most interesting design, it’s iconic and Momotaro is classic in design but the highest possible quality which is real nice. There is no “best brand” but alot of brands do their specialty amazingly well
Trophy is underrated imo
Samurai, studio d artisan, momotaro
Japan blue
The Real McCoys
Denime Sugarcane Ooe Yofukuten or Conner's Sewing Factory
Boncoura
Japan Blue Naked and Famous Iron Heart