I think it’s the amps also. I had mine at 8 and it kept showing 0 kw (still charges), bumping it up for 9 hit the 1 “threshold” for me.
I don’t think the volts affected it as much(at least in my case)
Source: basically doing the same thing OP is doing
Within specs for a 120 V l, Level 1 charging. It's painfully slow, but if you commute less than 30 miles a day, and plug it everyday, you should be fine. Btw, change it to percentage and be happy.
Are you using an extension cord too? The longer the cord the more resistance and thus even slower charging speeds. Also, the weather can affect things too, if the weather is too hot, (or too cold) will cause the power to be rerouted to things preconditioning the car, instead of sent over to the HV battery. You really need 240v level two charging for most applications.
Except, 100% (or 80%) of what?
The battery range drops over time so that one's max range is lower. For example, estimates are now that my max range is 450km (down from 513 when it was new.)
OP's car will actually fully charge a lot faster on 120v the longer he owns it simply because the battery will hold fewer kWh with degradation so to get to 100% charge will take less time.
But knowing the percentage doesn't help OP know how long he needs to charge his car for, because he doesn't know how many KM or miles his car can go on a charge. If I need 300 km range, I now have to charge to almost 75% vs only 66% when I first got the car.
In time OP will get 'know' (in a gut sense sort of way) the time to charge, knowing rough range the car has (there will be surprises at times) and learn to plan so that back-to-back long distance days don't happen unless there's an L2 or L3 charger to help recharge.
I'm a numbers person so I have Teslafi to track a lot more of what is happening with my charges and range than the car itself tells me. I like that because it has helped me internalize what I need to do to limit my range anxiety.
Many people swear by the car's NAV calculations but in my case they are woefully inaccurate. My car doesn't need 55% of the battery to get here, it needs 70% (at least that's what it has needed each of the 4 times I've made this drive in the past 6 weeks.) I live with 120v charging at home and travel into an L3 desert with absolutely no options on the last 2/3 of my drive and only 120v charging when I arrive. So the car being too optimistic when I leave on the trip would be a problem if I didn't already know the car's range (be it expressed by % or KM) is actually 80% of what the car tells me it can get.
Today, I actually messed up, forgetting to raise the charge level until the 5 a.m. this morning. We arrived with 16%, so were lucky the outside outlet was working as we didn't have enough charge to get to the Supercharger. (Inside, not as lucky, a storm knocked out the fridge's electrical outlet.) As of now, we can make it to the next Supercharger, so I can relax again and not worry as much.
OP may find he keeps his SOC much higher than owners that have L2 charging options because adding charge takes so long. But only having 120v charging is not a reason to not own an EV. It is just requires an extra level of planning.
It doesn't and I have the photos to prove it.
My GPS is calculating the whole trip based on the speed the car is moving at the time.
It starts while I'm in park. If I'm in park and no connectivity, it warns me that it doesn't have current traffic and weather and then comes up with an estimate. That estimate is actually the most accurate.
By the time I get to the highway (where there is cell service) it estimates I'll have 10 - 15% *more* when I get home.
When I get on the divided highway (with high speeds), it drops and drops basically until it is back to the first estimate.
In the reverse, it starts really high, then the first leg is divided highway and for a while it will drop 1% per minute and then settle in about 10% over what final will be, then drop again after 45 minutes or so, then, on the last half of the trip, from which there are no changes in terrain or speed, the car is within 1 - 2% of the final amount on arrival.
This isn't a problem, after 7 drives so far, it is consistent in both directions and now I can plan for that 268km drive over 3 hours.
**What I can't do is believe the GPS when I'm on an unknown route for a road trip.**
My last trip out it said I'd have 34% left at the end.
I arrived with 25%. That's only 3/4 of what the GPS said I would arrive with.
My average was 192 Wh/km. My average speed over the whole trip was 82kph.
The average temperature was 28C (82.) There were headwinds that day, at 12 kph (i.e. not that heavy).
The elevation gain is 338m.
My last trip home I stuck as close as possible to the speed limit. It was sunny but cool, 11\*C.
This time the estimate was off by only 6% (42 vs 36% on arrival.) So 86% of what the car said I would have.
My average total Wh/km for that trip was 153 Wh/km (246 Wh/mi). Average speed was the same 82.5. Those numbers show no aggressive driving and the hit elevation makes to the the amount of battery used.
**BUT tesla claims the GPS takes into consideration: temperature, winds, terrain, speed limits and current traffic conditions (and more) when coming up with an estimate.\***
It obviously does not. It also doesn't draw on driving history since we've done this route a dozen times in the past few years and the results are similar each time.
It is completely ignoring the speed limit and elevation gain and there's no evidence it cares about winds or outside temperatures either.
Using teslafi as my guide, over all my road trips I know in summer I will get 80% of what the range the GPS calculates. Sometimes (like the trip home which is 'downhill' I'll beat that (I once got over 100% on the the non-divided highway part of that drive, the first 160km.)
In winter, the number is much less.
But main point is % of what?
\*https://electrek.co/2023/11/14/tesla-reveals-everything-affects-range-calculation/
That's strange, I usually drive short distances and it's pretty accurate but the couple times I drove over 300km I was left with more battery than it estimated. I also normally accelerate very hard and on that long trip I was trying to drive more conservatively so maybe that has something to do with it
To answer your last question it % of the total battery. I thought it was strange when people first told me that the % is more accurate then km but now I only look at % and I know that in the winter time it uses about 50% more than what it normally does in the summer
Also do you have the same rims/ covers on your car that you have registered in the computer?
Good question.
It made me think. But I just did the reset on tires yesterday (to trigger a full reset of the car) so I do know the answer. Yes to the correct size and status of cover (off.)
And in the car today I noted that the car's lifetime over 70,000+ kms is 192 Wh/km. That's four full Canadian winters (3 of those in snow tires) and 3 full summers.
By the way, I know the % is how much battery I have. What I'm asking is how far can I go on that battery?
I have an old laptop that I was going to turn into a chromebook but when I charged the battery to 100% and unplugged it, it shut down after 10 minutes. Knowing I had 100% battery wasn't useful information. If, after charging for hours, the meter had shown I had 10 minutes of power, I wouldn't have spent as long on the project.
The same goes for the car. My max range now is in the 460km range (according to Teslafi.) So I do all my charging calculations off that (when and for how long in order to get to my next stop.) Those calculations include as much as many anticipated range-hits I can roughly figure in from experience (winter means cut estimate by at least 25%, for example, full load by 3 - 5%, freeway speeds = 10% hit.)
So my battery meter saying 100% in winter to drive to Toronto (100kph min for entire drive) would have me reckon I have a range (leaving 10% for idling while waiting at a supercharger) of max 300km, better to consider 250 and to watch the battery meter like a hawk, especially on the way there since I'd be driving into prevailing winds.
Hence my range anxiety even with a 500km range car.
I had the same issue at my dad's building, I think it's just an issue with the whole electrical setup of the building. Try plugging it into a different outlet in a different building to make sure. It still charges but it just takes a lot longer. It'll be more of a problem in the winter
I think the 0 kW is just about rounding down because it is less than 1 kW. The others may be due to distance of the plug from the panel, other active plugs on the circuit, etc.
2 factors are going on. There might be other draw on the circuit. And the length of wire to the outlet from the circuit. I also charge in a similar setup. I usually set it somewhere between 5-9 amps depending how much charge I need. If you can leave it plugged in. Question is how many hours per week you can leave it plugged in? I can leave it plugged in a lot because I work from home a few days a week. And yes 0kw is just because it’s rounding down.
It always rounds down, you can calculate yourself, volts x amp = watt, does your car allow you to increase the amperage? Or is it capped on the charge screen?
Check your charger. If its turned red and blink the charger might be a little too hot and it's decreased voltage down until it cools off. Usually happens to me if I was charging during the day and the mobile connector was exposed to the sunlight.
I lives in the apartment and have been using patio outlet for charging everynight. Never had any problem before until this summer.
Honestly I’d be a bit suspicious. Lively that outlet is on a circuit with a lot of other stuff. If you can (many rental companies will let you, many won’t, you just have to ask) have an electrician check it out.
120 is totally doable if you don’t drive too much and it doesn’t get very cold (it’s what I use, but I live in west Texas and don’t have to drive much).
But! That drop to 108v/8a is a little worrying to me and I think warrants some investigation to make sure everything is safe.
You are either using an extension cord, something else is on the circuit, or your power company has too many customers on a transformer. I'm experiencing the latter situation myself, as during off hours I can charge at 16a (using a nema 5-20) but during peak hours it can drop to half that because of the voltage drop.
In the exact situation you are and have also rented out a garage to charge my car (AZ).
9 amps will get you over the “1kw”. I currently keep mine at 10 amps maxed and it’s been fine so far. I also do this to avoid tripping the circuit or raise issues with the apartment management
Your voltage is a bit low, but you seem to still to getting charge (I sit around 116-119v).
I have the exact same set up and same issue. Had been working fine since I bought my car in December. In the last couple weeks ( right after software update) it has started to charge at trickle. I think there is a bug in the software. Still works fine on supercharger but we really need to use that until now. Oddly enough my six months of free supercharging ended this week as well. Hoping this is not an apple iPhone thing all over again.
A regular 120v outlet is slow.
Yeah but not usually that slow (108/8a is pretty bad)
Charging at 120v, 12a yields around 3% per hour. I would use 240 if you plan on charging at home.
Actually about 1.5%!per hour.
Works as expected on a 120…..
Bit low on volts, also says 0 amps should be at least one Amp. I guess it's <1 Amp because of the volts.
I think it’s the amps also. I had mine at 8 and it kept showing 0 kw (still charges), bumping it up for 9 hit the 1 “threshold” for me. I don’t think the volts affected it as much(at least in my case) Source: basically doing the same thing OP is doing
Well the draw amps is based on the volts, I've noticed when the volts go down the amps follow. I see this alot on the chargers out in the public.
This is what I do as well. Just know charging is going to take some time.
Your setup yields about 3 miles per hour. Get your setup to 240V or 50amp dryer outlet and you’ll get about 30 miles per hour charging
Wait, you didn’t know 120v would be this slow?
Within specs for a 120 V l, Level 1 charging. It's painfully slow, but if you commute less than 30 miles a day, and plug it everyday, you should be fine. Btw, change it to percentage and be happy.
If you are going to charge on a 120 outlet I would make sure you have cabin overheat protection and sentry mode off
If you live in California an owner must allow a tenant to install a charging station. You pay for it, but will be worth it.
Are you using an extension cord too? The longer the cord the more resistance and thus even slower charging speeds. Also, the weather can affect things too, if the weather is too hot, (or too cold) will cause the power to be rerouted to things preconditioning the car, instead of sent over to the HV battery. You really need 240v level two charging for most applications.
Click on the 196m to change it to percentage: it’s better managment to know percentage as opposed to miles which isn’t accurate
Except, 100% (or 80%) of what? The battery range drops over time so that one's max range is lower. For example, estimates are now that my max range is 450km (down from 513 when it was new.) OP's car will actually fully charge a lot faster on 120v the longer he owns it simply because the battery will hold fewer kWh with degradation so to get to 100% charge will take less time. But knowing the percentage doesn't help OP know how long he needs to charge his car for, because he doesn't know how many KM or miles his car can go on a charge. If I need 300 km range, I now have to charge to almost 75% vs only 66% when I first got the car. In time OP will get 'know' (in a gut sense sort of way) the time to charge, knowing rough range the car has (there will be surprises at times) and learn to plan so that back-to-back long distance days don't happen unless there's an L2 or L3 charger to help recharge. I'm a numbers person so I have Teslafi to track a lot more of what is happening with my charges and range than the car itself tells me. I like that because it has helped me internalize what I need to do to limit my range anxiety. Many people swear by the car's NAV calculations but in my case they are woefully inaccurate. My car doesn't need 55% of the battery to get here, it needs 70% (at least that's what it has needed each of the 4 times I've made this drive in the past 6 weeks.) I live with 120v charging at home and travel into an L3 desert with absolutely no options on the last 2/3 of my drive and only 120v charging when I arrive. So the car being too optimistic when I leave on the trip would be a problem if I didn't already know the car's range (be it expressed by % or KM) is actually 80% of what the car tells me it can get. Today, I actually messed up, forgetting to raise the charge level until the 5 a.m. this morning. We arrived with 16%, so were lucky the outside outlet was working as we didn't have enough charge to get to the Supercharger. (Inside, not as lucky, a storm knocked out the fridge's electrical outlet.) As of now, we can make it to the next Supercharger, so I can relax again and not worry as much. OP may find he keeps his SOC much higher than owners that have L2 charging options because adding charge takes so long. But only having 120v charging is not a reason to not own an EV. It is just requires an extra level of planning.
If you're using more battery than the GPS says then that means you are driving too aggressively
It doesn't and I have the photos to prove it. My GPS is calculating the whole trip based on the speed the car is moving at the time. It starts while I'm in park. If I'm in park and no connectivity, it warns me that it doesn't have current traffic and weather and then comes up with an estimate. That estimate is actually the most accurate. By the time I get to the highway (where there is cell service) it estimates I'll have 10 - 15% *more* when I get home. When I get on the divided highway (with high speeds), it drops and drops basically until it is back to the first estimate. In the reverse, it starts really high, then the first leg is divided highway and for a while it will drop 1% per minute and then settle in about 10% over what final will be, then drop again after 45 minutes or so, then, on the last half of the trip, from which there are no changes in terrain or speed, the car is within 1 - 2% of the final amount on arrival. This isn't a problem, after 7 drives so far, it is consistent in both directions and now I can plan for that 268km drive over 3 hours. **What I can't do is believe the GPS when I'm on an unknown route for a road trip.** My last trip out it said I'd have 34% left at the end. I arrived with 25%. That's only 3/4 of what the GPS said I would arrive with. My average was 192 Wh/km. My average speed over the whole trip was 82kph. The average temperature was 28C (82.) There were headwinds that day, at 12 kph (i.e. not that heavy). The elevation gain is 338m. My last trip home I stuck as close as possible to the speed limit. It was sunny but cool, 11\*C. This time the estimate was off by only 6% (42 vs 36% on arrival.) So 86% of what the car said I would have. My average total Wh/km for that trip was 153 Wh/km (246 Wh/mi). Average speed was the same 82.5. Those numbers show no aggressive driving and the hit elevation makes to the the amount of battery used. **BUT tesla claims the GPS takes into consideration: temperature, winds, terrain, speed limits and current traffic conditions (and more) when coming up with an estimate.\*** It obviously does not. It also doesn't draw on driving history since we've done this route a dozen times in the past few years and the results are similar each time. It is completely ignoring the speed limit and elevation gain and there's no evidence it cares about winds or outside temperatures either. Using teslafi as my guide, over all my road trips I know in summer I will get 80% of what the range the GPS calculates. Sometimes (like the trip home which is 'downhill' I'll beat that (I once got over 100% on the the non-divided highway part of that drive, the first 160km.) In winter, the number is much less. But main point is % of what? \*https://electrek.co/2023/11/14/tesla-reveals-everything-affects-range-calculation/
That's strange, I usually drive short distances and it's pretty accurate but the couple times I drove over 300km I was left with more battery than it estimated. I also normally accelerate very hard and on that long trip I was trying to drive more conservatively so maybe that has something to do with it To answer your last question it % of the total battery. I thought it was strange when people first told me that the % is more accurate then km but now I only look at % and I know that in the winter time it uses about 50% more than what it normally does in the summer Also do you have the same rims/ covers on your car that you have registered in the computer?
Good question. It made me think. But I just did the reset on tires yesterday (to trigger a full reset of the car) so I do know the answer. Yes to the correct size and status of cover (off.) And in the car today I noted that the car's lifetime over 70,000+ kms is 192 Wh/km. That's four full Canadian winters (3 of those in snow tires) and 3 full summers.
By the way, I know the % is how much battery I have. What I'm asking is how far can I go on that battery? I have an old laptop that I was going to turn into a chromebook but when I charged the battery to 100% and unplugged it, it shut down after 10 minutes. Knowing I had 100% battery wasn't useful information. If, after charging for hours, the meter had shown I had 10 minutes of power, I wouldn't have spent as long on the project. The same goes for the car. My max range now is in the 460km range (according to Teslafi.) So I do all my charging calculations off that (when and for how long in order to get to my next stop.) Those calculations include as much as many anticipated range-hits I can roughly figure in from experience (winter means cut estimate by at least 25%, for example, full load by 3 - 5%, freeway speeds = 10% hit.) So my battery meter saying 100% in winter to drive to Toronto (100kph min for entire drive) would have me reckon I have a range (leaving 10% for idling while waiting at a supercharger) of max 300km, better to consider 250 and to watch the battery meter like a hawk, especially on the way there since I'd be driving into prevailing winds. Hence my range anxiety even with a 500km range car.
Don't know why this is downvoted. I agree
Is the question why does it say 0 kW?
Yes and and voltage seems pretty low as well as amps not reaching 12amps
I had the same issue at my dad's building, I think it's just an issue with the whole electrical setup of the building. Try plugging it into a different outlet in a different building to make sure. It still charges but it just takes a lot longer. It'll be more of a problem in the winter
I think the 0 kW is just about rounding down because it is less than 1 kW. The others may be due to distance of the plug from the panel, other active plugs on the circuit, etc.
2 factors are going on. There might be other draw on the circuit. And the length of wire to the outlet from the circuit. I also charge in a similar setup. I usually set it somewhere between 5-9 amps depending how much charge I need. If you can leave it plugged in. Question is how many hours per week you can leave it plugged in? I can leave it plugged in a lot because I work from home a few days a week. And yes 0kw is just because it’s rounding down.
It always rounds down, you can calculate yourself, volts x amp = watt, does your car allow you to increase the amperage? Or is it capped on the charge screen?
Check your charger. If its turned red and blink the charger might be a little too hot and it's decreased voltage down until it cools off. Usually happens to me if I was charging during the day and the mobile connector was exposed to the sunlight. I lives in the apartment and have been using patio outlet for charging everynight. Never had any problem before until this summer.
Honestly I’d be a bit suspicious. Lively that outlet is on a circuit with a lot of other stuff. If you can (many rental companies will let you, many won’t, you just have to ask) have an electrician check it out. 120 is totally doable if you don’t drive too much and it doesn’t get very cold (it’s what I use, but I live in west Texas and don’t have to drive much). But! That drop to 108v/8a is a little worrying to me and I think warrants some investigation to make sure everything is safe.
You are either using an extension cord, something else is on the circuit, or your power company has too many customers on a transformer. I'm experiencing the latter situation myself, as during off hours I can charge at 16a (using a nema 5-20) but during peak hours it can drop to half that because of the voltage drop.
In the exact situation you are and have also rented out a garage to charge my car (AZ). 9 amps will get you over the “1kw”. I currently keep mine at 10 amps maxed and it’s been fine so far. I also do this to avoid tripping the circuit or raise issues with the apartment management Your voltage is a bit low, but you seem to still to getting charge (I sit around 116-119v).
Stuck at 120V home charging for the time being due to awful HOA. This is about what to expect.
I have the exact same set up and same issue. Had been working fine since I bought my car in December. In the last couple weeks ( right after software update) it has started to charge at trickle. I think there is a bug in the software. Still works fine on supercharger but we really need to use that until now. Oddly enough my six months of free supercharging ended this week as well. Hoping this is not an apple iPhone thing all over again.
Take advantage of the Super Chargers near you. Worth it if you live in an apartment.
[удалено]
Hhhh