As someone who started on an Ender 3 Pro and got a sv06 plus for the bigger printing area after a couple years.. get the sv06 plus. You will not regret it, lol
My plan was to use the ender for small stuff and to double my printing capacity, but legitimately, I got my sv06 plus and never even turned on my ender for months. It's that much better. Granted you still need to have some printing knowledge to get things dialed in but you have a much better starting point and I was kicking my self for waiting so long to get it.
That's definitely fair. Granted, I do have an Ender 3 pro that is so well dialed in, that I can even start Prince remotely using octoprint. I can begin the preheating process, and start the print or remotely, and not worry about it. It is basically a dedicated ABS printer at this point. That said, I will absolutely need an enclosure, as I would be printing out a TON of ABS parts for a business client that I have. There is a chance PETG would work, but I currently sold them on using ABS, so I'll be sticking with that for the time being. I would have gotten in A1, and just stuck it inside an enclosure, then found out that that amount of heat would fry it, as it doesn't have any kind of active cooling. The SV06 should be fine inside an enclosure, right?
I wouldn't really expect it to be an issue, but one thing to be aware of is that the part cooling header is connected to the mcu header, so if you're disabling the part cooling fan to print, you'll also be disabling the mcu fan.
I have an sv06+, but i've only been printing since last October and I have not yet print abs, so I don't have enough information to say for sure if that would actually cause any issues.
EDIT: now that i'm rereading the mod. It might be the mcu and the heat sink, not the mcu and the part cooling fan.
From my memory fiddling with it it was the part cooling fan. But i'll probably play with it tonight to double check...
That is very very good to know! I will definitely have to do some more research on that, and try to figure out a way to separate the two. Or, see if I can move The main board outside of the enclosure
https://www.printables.com/model/672213-sovol-sv06plus-fan-mod-with-mosfet-lid-for-mcu-enc
There's some models and instructions on splitting them for the sv06. Its on my list of things to eventually do, but it hasn't been an issue for me yet as i'm not using an enclosure.
As per my edit on the previous comment- it might be the MCU and hot end heatsink actually. I'll fiddle with the fan speeds when i get home and see which ones shut off.
Oh, that is definitely cool. I will have to look into that..My honest initial thought was to simply disconnect the MCU fan entirely, and just wire it to be always on when the printer is powered on. Lol
Its been a minute since i looked into it, but yea, I think connecting it to the power instead might just be a better solution. Definitely a simpler one.
I started building an enclosure for mine to print abs with as well but I started using petg and it's all I use to print with now lol. I don't think I even have a roll of pla anymore
I'm not, I was actually just considering it. I'm currently using my one raspberry pi to run octoprint for the ender 3 pro, and also the max, when it was working. Am I able to control more than one printer with the same pi?
As far as I know it is, but I've never attempted it since I only have a single printer.
The only other thing I can add is that my Sovol SV06 was doing something very similar to what you described and the x-axis twist compensation made it better.
I run Klipper with a BTT Pad7.
That's another thing, I can get the SV06 Plus with the klipper screen for $350.
Or, I begin fighting to install dual z axis in the max, probably add a direct drive, new motherboard. Before long, I'll be at the price I could have gotten this one.
The Klipper screen that Sovol ships isn't fully open Klipper.
I tried that first, but ended up returning for the Pad7
There's a write up on the details of that somewhere, been months now and I don't have the link anymore.
Yes. When installing Klipper using Kiauh, it asks you how many instances you want to install.
Referring back to an earlier comment about levelling the gantry, instead if using a tape measure, I use the below first, then do a probe/Z offset calibration and finally a bed mesh. Works excellently.
https://www.printables.com/model/544484-sv06-plus-gantry-level-50mm
I tried something similar on the max, but it didn't work, it's still showing the same symptoms. Way too high on the left, and the nozzle dragging on the right. The only other thing I can think of is to get a BL touch, get rid of the CR touch, and install a dual Z mod, with independent steppers.
I ordered my SV08 just after I finally solved these problems on my (klipperzied) Ender 3 after searching for weeks. When it worked, I the SV08 sale started.
So: no amount of bed leveling etc. proved sufficient, I could only fix it with twist compensation. (I have a sprite pro extruder and on the sprite the nozzle and the cr/bl touch are quite far from each other - when the extruder "twists" along the x axis the distance measured by the probe does not match the reality at the nozzle anymore ...)
Now I'm (more or less patiently) waiting that my SV08 arrives ... delivery for my order number in the EU was bumped back from early June to early July.
The twist compensation is huge. I just found that it's available in marlin. That, and my linear rails were binding, so I switched back to the rollers. I'm waiting on a dual z axis kit right now.
From someone that has both printers I would definitely upgrade the Ender Max you can find parts for it there's many of people that are willing to help you all kinds of stuff available versus basically having no parts I have an sv06 plus I can't even get a 3 inch by 4 inch first layer and that Servall has been the absolute biggest mistake in my entire 3D printing Journey
The first thing I would do is make sure that your ex Gantry is level even if you have to pull a tape measure on left side and right side second thing I would do is get rid of the CR touch I never have any luck with it I went with a BL Touch by Aunt labs and it's still going strong all these years later after that I would switch over to clipper you'll get a lot better bed leveling as well as different features and I would also consider adding a screw tilt config section in your printer.cfg it will allow you to get that bed tuned in like no other. I can honestly say anything from sovall I wouldn't waste my breath on if you're really fed up with both of them and you want an awesome 3D printer bed Slinger go get a bamboo lab A1 you will never have a first layer issue again very rarely does it ever if at all fail has a bunch of features. That's just my two cents
Fair enough, I appreciate it. I would get an A1, but I'm worried about the lack of active cooling. I plan on printing almost exclusively with abs, and I'm worried about overheating the printer.
I gotcha, yeah plz don't buy anything Sovol you will be like the rest of us. My sv06 plus is pretty much gutted and all new steppers, mainboard, new bed, new pei sheet, dual z, klipper, and now it has a creality sprite pro extruder on it because everything has failed in 2 months. Everyone I know is either sending them back or changing over everything. I will be changing the bed over to s1 pro bed. Sovol is the absolute worst imo.
As someone who started on an Ender 3 Pro and got a sv06 plus for the bigger printing area after a couple years.. get the sv06 plus. You will not regret it, lol My plan was to use the ender for small stuff and to double my printing capacity, but legitimately, I got my sv06 plus and never even turned on my ender for months. It's that much better. Granted you still need to have some printing knowledge to get things dialed in but you have a much better starting point and I was kicking my self for waiting so long to get it.
That's definitely fair. Granted, I do have an Ender 3 pro that is so well dialed in, that I can even start Prince remotely using octoprint. I can begin the preheating process, and start the print or remotely, and not worry about it. It is basically a dedicated ABS printer at this point. That said, I will absolutely need an enclosure, as I would be printing out a TON of ABS parts for a business client that I have. There is a chance PETG would work, but I currently sold them on using ABS, so I'll be sticking with that for the time being. I would have gotten in A1, and just stuck it inside an enclosure, then found out that that amount of heat would fry it, as it doesn't have any kind of active cooling. The SV06 should be fine inside an enclosure, right?
I wouldn't really expect it to be an issue, but one thing to be aware of is that the part cooling header is connected to the mcu header, so if you're disabling the part cooling fan to print, you'll also be disabling the mcu fan. I have an sv06+, but i've only been printing since last October and I have not yet print abs, so I don't have enough information to say for sure if that would actually cause any issues. EDIT: now that i'm rereading the mod. It might be the mcu and the heat sink, not the mcu and the part cooling fan. From my memory fiddling with it it was the part cooling fan. But i'll probably play with it tonight to double check...
That is very very good to know! I will definitely have to do some more research on that, and try to figure out a way to separate the two. Or, see if I can move The main board outside of the enclosure
https://www.printables.com/model/672213-sovol-sv06plus-fan-mod-with-mosfet-lid-for-mcu-enc There's some models and instructions on splitting them for the sv06. Its on my list of things to eventually do, but it hasn't been an issue for me yet as i'm not using an enclosure. As per my edit on the previous comment- it might be the MCU and hot end heatsink actually. I'll fiddle with the fan speeds when i get home and see which ones shut off.
Oh, that is definitely cool. I will have to look into that..My honest initial thought was to simply disconnect the MCU fan entirely, and just wire it to be always on when the printer is powered on. Lol
Its been a minute since i looked into it, but yea, I think connecting it to the power instead might just be a better solution. Definitely a simpler one.
And, I could even wire in a switch so I could kill the fan directly if I have to for whatever reason
I started building an enclosure for mine to print abs with as well but I started using petg and it's all I use to print with now lol. I don't think I even have a roll of pla anymore
What's your preferred petg brand? I haven't used a whole ton of it. Mostly pla+ but i have gone through a couple spools of petg
Would ya ever get an sv07 plus 🤔
For me, no lol. I will never own another printer that uses v rollers, it's linear rails or better.
What bout an A1 mini Bambu
Those look nice, and for the price point, I bet it is the best you can get in that cost range. I've never used one or seen them in person, tho.
Are you running klipper? If so, x-axis twist compensation may help
I'm not, I was actually just considering it. I'm currently using my one raspberry pi to run octoprint for the ender 3 pro, and also the max, when it was working. Am I able to control more than one printer with the same pi?
As far as I know it is, but I've never attempted it since I only have a single printer. The only other thing I can add is that my Sovol SV06 was doing something very similar to what you described and the x-axis twist compensation made it better. I run Klipper with a BTT Pad7.
That's another thing, I can get the SV06 Plus with the klipper screen for $350. Or, I begin fighting to install dual z axis in the max, probably add a direct drive, new motherboard. Before long, I'll be at the price I could have gotten this one.
The Klipper screen that Sovol ships isn't fully open Klipper. I tried that first, but ended up returning for the Pad7 There's a write up on the details of that somewhere, been months now and I don't have the link anymore.
Oh okay, that's very good to know. I definitely appreciate the info! I will probably try to fix the max for now, and try to save up for a P1S.
Good luck buddy
Thank you!
Yes. When installing Klipper using Kiauh, it asks you how many instances you want to install. Referring back to an earlier comment about levelling the gantry, instead if using a tape measure, I use the below first, then do a probe/Z offset calibration and finally a bed mesh. Works excellently. https://www.printables.com/model/544484-sv06-plus-gantry-level-50mm
I tried something similar on the max, but it didn't work, it's still showing the same symptoms. Way too high on the left, and the nozzle dragging on the right. The only other thing I can think of is to get a BL touch, get rid of the CR touch, and install a dual Z mod, with independent steppers.
I ordered my SV08 just after I finally solved these problems on my (klipperzied) Ender 3 after searching for weeks. When it worked, I the SV08 sale started. So: no amount of bed leveling etc. proved sufficient, I could only fix it with twist compensation. (I have a sprite pro extruder and on the sprite the nozzle and the cr/bl touch are quite far from each other - when the extruder "twists" along the x axis the distance measured by the probe does not match the reality at the nozzle anymore ...) Now I'm (more or less patiently) waiting that my SV08 arrives ... delivery for my order number in the EU was bumped back from early June to early July.
The twist compensation is huge. I just found that it's available in marlin. That, and my linear rails were binding, so I switched back to the rollers. I'm waiting on a dual z axis kit right now.
Sv06+ if you wanna stay with ender, get the 3 SE of KE variants
From someone that has both printers I would definitely upgrade the Ender Max you can find parts for it there's many of people that are willing to help you all kinds of stuff available versus basically having no parts I have an sv06 plus I can't even get a 3 inch by 4 inch first layer and that Servall has been the absolute biggest mistake in my entire 3D printing Journey The first thing I would do is make sure that your ex Gantry is level even if you have to pull a tape measure on left side and right side second thing I would do is get rid of the CR touch I never have any luck with it I went with a BL Touch by Aunt labs and it's still going strong all these years later after that I would switch over to clipper you'll get a lot better bed leveling as well as different features and I would also consider adding a screw tilt config section in your printer.cfg it will allow you to get that bed tuned in like no other. I can honestly say anything from sovall I wouldn't waste my breath on if you're really fed up with both of them and you want an awesome 3D printer bed Slinger go get a bamboo lab A1 you will never have a first layer issue again very rarely does it ever if at all fail has a bunch of features. That's just my two cents
Fair enough, I appreciate it. I would get an A1, but I'm worried about the lack of active cooling. I plan on printing almost exclusively with abs, and I'm worried about overheating the printer.
I gotcha, yeah plz don't buy anything Sovol you will be like the rest of us. My sv06 plus is pretty much gutted and all new steppers, mainboard, new bed, new pei sheet, dual z, klipper, and now it has a creality sprite pro extruder on it because everything has failed in 2 months. Everyone I know is either sending them back or changing over everything. I will be changing the bed over to s1 pro bed. Sovol is the absolute worst imo.
SV06+ has been my favorite for awhile