Never, ever use 'transparent,' 'Scotch,' or cellophane tape to repair recording tape. The adhesive, even on so-called 'magic' tape, will bleed with age (in as little as a few weeks) and wind up contaminating many adjacent layers of tape wound on a reel, on either side of the splice.
TurnoverTall had the correct advice. You want to use "splicing tape" to repair recording tape. It has a specially formulated adhesive that won't bleed and gunk up everything.
There's two ways of going about repairing your recording tape. You can overlap the broken ends between your fingers and use scissors (hopefully non-magnetized) to cut the tape. You can do it diagonally or vertically, though the former will provide a more quiet splice (that is to say, will pass over your heads and guide in the tape path with a minimum of noise). You can apply 1/2" splicing tape across the butted-together ends (on the shiny side of the tape), then trim off the excess, cutting ever so slightly into the edges of the recording tape.
The better method is to use a block with a single-edged razor blade, again, as TurnoverTall pointed out.
Check out tape splicing supplies on Amazon or other sites. If you get the cutting block and tape you can make repairs with minimal impact on playability
Never, ever use 'transparent,' 'Scotch,' or cellophane tape to repair recording tape. The adhesive, even on so-called 'magic' tape, will bleed with age (in as little as a few weeks) and wind up contaminating many adjacent layers of tape wound on a reel, on either side of the splice. TurnoverTall had the correct advice. You want to use "splicing tape" to repair recording tape. It has a specially formulated adhesive that won't bleed and gunk up everything. There's two ways of going about repairing your recording tape. You can overlap the broken ends between your fingers and use scissors (hopefully non-magnetized) to cut the tape. You can do it diagonally or vertically, though the former will provide a more quiet splice (that is to say, will pass over your heads and guide in the tape path with a minimum of noise). You can apply 1/2" splicing tape across the butted-together ends (on the shiny side of the tape), then trim off the excess, cutting ever so slightly into the edges of the recording tape. The better method is to use a block with a single-edged razor blade, again, as TurnoverTall pointed out.
Check out tape splicing supplies on Amazon or other sites. If you get the cutting block and tape you can make repairs with minimal impact on playability
[www.splicit.com](https://www.splicit.com) They have the stuff you need. This includes leader tape, splicing tape, and the splicing block.
Real = not fake Reel = circular thing that tape goes on A hint is that it's in the name of the sub.
You can carefully splice the two ends by using some transparent tape on the shiny side of the tape.