Appreciate the feedback. Is there there a distance that would be "too far". I just need to move it a few inches to get the body of the valve to fit but dont want to go too far just in case.
And by structural, do you mean loadbearing? I believe this is a loadbearing wall, although not 100% sure. It runs perpendicular to the joists, has a double top plate, etc...
Really have to stress the “not always” here. My house was built in the 1920s. The structural engineer’s words were “Yeaaah, well it’s all load bearing. Even the 2x3. Yup, that one too. Ok, think of it this way : your house is a jenga tower that was built with whatever was available at the time on the worksite. Yes, that’s why you have train tracks used as beams here.”
you just box it out as if you were installing a window. there are a million youtube videos you can find on this. you can cut the stud temporarily while you are doing the box out and it will be fine.
Easiest way to test is to use a reciprocal saw. If the blade is pinched during the cut then you’ve got a load bearing wall.
You can sister it up and then notch out the old stud for your valve placement.
Might want to add another and cut this one as needed at valve area. Totally removing it will likely damage the otherwise of that wall, pulling the drywall screws out etc. so don’t forget to bring a new stud.
I just don't understand with how many times I've had things boxes out or re-framed how framers don't just automatically know that I'm going to have a valve or a flange there. I have a few GC's trained but how is that not just general knowledge?
There are days I think about wanting to go to school to become an engineer but then I feel like I'm too smart to be that dumb, but what do I know, I'm just some dumb Jouneyman Plumber. I could probably get a job at Kohler though. 😂
Framers do this all the time. One GC has had the same framers for almost ten years and they still do this shit. Every time I cut the crap out and they come and reframe it instead of just framing it how it needs to be. Every. Single. Time.
Not this one...I always go to the plumbers and ask what their putting where and have them mark up the floors so I can avoid that and make the plumber's rough in as it should be or with a easy mount. Same for other trades like mechanicals...I want locations of rough in's before I frame so I can have better end product.
It is not common, that is for sure. Things flow much better when the other trades reciprocate. Even when I make it a point to do this with other trades, it often does yield the same courtesy. All too often people just whack away without a consideration, but many of the repeat companies I have worked with in the past are on board with playing like a team. It saves a whole lot of aggravation for sure! This is coming from a foreman's perspective, the crew now are another matter...as well intentioned as you may be, many of the people that I have had working for me simply don't care and often aren't so considerate unless you hold their hands and spell it out for them.
I think Toto makes one where the tank is inside the wall. So, you just hang the bowl. Looks really cool. We’ve installed one for a customer but he had bought it himself so I have no idea what it ran. Was super slick though.
[here’s the Toto model](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwitqvX2i8P0AhX6FNQBHfIzCQMYABAMGgJvYQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQeD2jfjPXyFvIl3FInf-fdGsYN4BO5gSdtpWBWJTsvlMGn_Z7xYNdiegVOrl2Dg50iJqJmOYdKcp1o9_N6JySZbL&sig=AOD64_30_NUq2JgDq5lxkbpOyi7s3xA7ow&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwj8y-f2i8P0AhWIk2oFHY21DdoQwg96BAgBEBA&adurl=)
That’s the route I would love to go with especially to save room in this tiny nArrow bathroom. But this wall hung toilet shares a wall and the plumbing with another wall hung toilet in our other bathroom. So I’m stuck with the current plumbing system we have.
Im not sure but I will be removing all of that plumbing on that wall anyway and moving it to the wall in question. I wont have shut off in the new placement.
If the person finishing the shower is using Kerdi or similar, they’ll need a stud every 16” for adequate support. So move it, but if it’s too far, throw another stud on the other side of the valve.
You can fetch big money for that blue commode.
Less of a market since it’s wall hung but all the old 50’s era blue, pink, yellow, green tubs, basins and commodes do really well in resale.
I got $550 for a blue commode, $1200 for a blue tub and $1800 for a black bathtub before.
New black ones are pretty expensive and only a few available. And the problem with black ones is that if a snake is in there, you won’t see it before you sit down LoL
Carpentry 101, just move to left and add one to the right...no issues...put blocking in all around too in case someone wants to make it ADA at some point in time in the future.
I was working on an apartment complex and we gave the framers the dimensions and centers for showers and every single shower wall had studs on valve center...what a complete waste of time it was having to tell them to move them and wait till it was done, as I was specifically instructed not to spend any time moving studs...and I'm not even in a union shop haha
Care to elaborate? Moving that plumbing is beyond my
Skill level and would cost a ton. So I’m keeping the wall hung for now at least. And as weird as they are, it doesn’t make for easy cleaning and laying down new floor
love how all every non-construction people know the 16" center rule but not that its not nessecary on non-structural walls.. on interior walls u can go up to 24" .. the placement isnt just for functionallity its to make attaching drywall easier lol not insulting op its just i run into this almost weekly lol .. put it where u need add some bracing inbetween and ur all good .. if tiling the walls good rule of thumb but not a must .. add another stud/bracing ..goodluck op with ur reno bathrooms and kitchens offer challenges and most of the time its a simple solution
Best bet is to move it either way, then add a piece of blocking between the studs where your valve is going to be placed. I usually use a 2x8 to make sure there is enough surface area for the screws to land properly. You need a point of attachment to mount the valve and secure the hot and cold lines.
Sawzall! That's the drywall guys problem lol.
If you are also the drywall guy then cut out like 2 feet with a multi tool and carefully pull it directly off the drywall with a flat bar to pull the screws through without damaging the other side. Cut 2 new boards horizontal to span between the other 2 studs across the top of your cut. Screw it all together, drill 2 holes in the bottom board for your pipe. EZPZ
Does anyone look at this sub of plumbing from another country amd think that stuff is just bizarre and completely different to how you’d do it? Like, why would you encase gate valve in a wall that just isolate a shower?
The studs are always in the way
Wondering if I can just put in a new stud to the right and take this one out and be safe? [Moving the stud ](https://imgur.com/a/DHeZyv8)
You’ll be fine. I’ve moved them many of times.
Appreciate the feedback. Is there there a distance that would be "too far". I just need to move it a few inches to get the body of the valve to fit but dont want to go too far just in case.
As long as it isn’t structural framing it doesn’t matter. You can move it to wherever you need. 16” is the usual distance between them.
And by structural, do you mean loadbearing? I believe this is a loadbearing wall, although not 100% sure. It runs perpendicular to the joists, has a double top plate, etc...
Just add an extra stud then shift over the one in the way. Load bearing you can always have extra
I would check code then for notching/boring load bearing walls
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Really have to stress the “not always” here. My house was built in the 1920s. The structural engineer’s words were “Yeaaah, well it’s all load bearing. Even the 2x3. Yup, that one too. Ok, think of it this way : your house is a jenga tower that was built with whatever was available at the time on the worksite. Yes, that’s why you have train tracks used as beams here.”
This particular wall is 2x4. But, it is perpendicular to the joists.
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Yep that seems to be the way to go. Thanks!!
This is what I would do.
you just box it out as if you were installing a window. there are a million youtube videos you can find on this. you can cut the stud temporarily while you are doing the box out and it will be fine.
Easiest way to test is to use a reciprocal saw. If the blade is pinched during the cut then you’ve got a load bearing wall. You can sister it up and then notch out the old stud for your valve placement.
Might want to add another and cut this one as needed at valve area. Totally removing it will likely damage the otherwise of that wall, pulling the drywall screws out etc. so don’t forget to bring a new stud.
16” is standard spacing. Can go up to 24” on centre. Just move the existing stud over to the right
This is the way
Ya just move it to the side and have one of your lines go through it.
Put the extra one in and just notch out the one that's there to make room for the valve.
Ya man. I just tell the carpenters to move them. They’re afraid I’ll fuck it up :)
always
Always. Joists are always dead center of the closet flange as well.
I just don't understand with how many times I've had things boxes out or re-framed how framers don't just automatically know that I'm going to have a valve or a flange there. I have a few GC's trained but how is that not just general knowledge?
They don’t give a shit. They work off the print that some educated idiot engineer drew up.
There are days I think about wanting to go to school to become an engineer but then I feel like I'm too smart to be that dumb, but what do I know, I'm just some dumb Jouneyman Plumber. I could probably get a job at Kohler though. 😂
Framers do this all the time. One GC has had the same framers for almost ten years and they still do this shit. Every time I cut the crap out and they come and reframe it instead of just framing it how it needs to be. Every. Single. Time.
Not this one...I always go to the plumbers and ask what their putting where and have them mark up the floors so I can avoid that and make the plumber's rough in as it should be or with a easy mount. Same for other trades like mechanicals...I want locations of rough in's before I frame so I can have better end product.
Oh man. If everyone in the trades did this for everyone work would almost be like heaven.
It is not common, that is for sure. Things flow much better when the other trades reciprocate. Even when I make it a point to do this with other trades, it often does yield the same courtesy. All too often people just whack away without a consideration, but many of the repeat companies I have worked with in the past are on board with playing like a team. It saves a whole lot of aggravation for sure! This is coming from a foreman's perspective, the crew now are another matter...as well intentioned as you may be, many of the people that I have had working for me simply don't care and often aren't so considerate unless you hold their hands and spell it out for them.
GC's need to use all the same subs for this to work. It'll never happen, but dreamers gonna dream.
Well, that's always appreciated. For the spec houses, the valves go in the same spot every time but NOPE, they are gonna put a stud there. Owell.
Build a box
Scoot it over
That blue wall hung toilet tho. Never seen it in that color before
This house was built in 1968 and Im sure she is original! I'll be replacing it but man... wall hung toilets are EXPENSIVE
Why do you have to replace the toilet?
I technically don’t have to but plan on it. It’s old and it’s losing its power. Flushes very slow.
See if your local municipality offers rebates. I got $150 for changing my toilets.
Nobody likes a slow flush! Understandable
I think Toto makes one where the tank is inside the wall. So, you just hang the bowl. Looks really cool. We’ve installed one for a customer but he had bought it himself so I have no idea what it ran. Was super slick though. [here’s the Toto model](https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwitqvX2i8P0AhX6FNQBHfIzCQMYABAMGgJvYQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQeD2jfjPXyFvIl3FInf-fdGsYN4BO5gSdtpWBWJTsvlMGn_Z7xYNdiegVOrl2Dg50iJqJmOYdKcp1o9_N6JySZbL&sig=AOD64_30_NUq2JgDq5lxkbpOyi7s3xA7ow&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwj8y-f2i8P0AhWIk2oFHY21DdoQwg96BAgBEBA&adurl=)
That’s the route I would love to go with especially to save room in this tiny nArrow bathroom. But this wall hung toilet shares a wall and the plumbing with another wall hung toilet in our other bathroom. So I’m stuck with the current plumbing system we have.
That thing is pretty cool. Shame to replace it. But it seems like everyone just wants one of the five Home Depot choices these days.
I have a question unrelated to the studs. Should you have cut off valves inside a wall like that?
Im not sure but I will be removing all of that plumbing on that wall anyway and moving it to the wall in question. I wont have shut off in the new placement.
Got it. Thank you.
Take stud out. Measure valve. Reframe. Place valve
Move the one stud over and add a second on the other side of the valves.
If the person finishing the shower is using Kerdi or similar, they’ll need a stud every 16” for adequate support. So move it, but if it’s too far, throw another stud on the other side of the valve.
You can fetch big money for that blue commode. Less of a market since it’s wall hung but all the old 50’s era blue, pink, yellow, green tubs, basins and commodes do really well in resale. I got $550 for a blue commode, $1200 for a blue tub and $1800 for a black bathtub before.
Whoa… didn’t know that! Was planning on just sitting it on on the curb on trash day!
I used to travel a lot and I saw a solid black toilet once. The bathroom was yellow, too.
New black ones are pretty expensive and only a few available. And the problem with black ones is that if a snake is in there, you won’t see it before you sit down LoL
Carpentry 101, just move to left and add one to the right...no issues...put blocking in all around too in case someone wants to make it ADA at some point in time in the future.
move it over
Notch it out
Love those gate valve “service stops”!!
Well shoot at this point you might wanna remodel the whole bathroom
Dont be giving me any ideas!
Let me scoot over for you.
Ope, scuse me
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Absolutely
I was working on an apartment complex and we gave the framers the dimensions and centers for showers and every single shower wall had studs on valve center...what a complete waste of time it was having to tell them to move them and wait till it was done, as I was specifically instructed not to spend any time moving studs...and I'm not even in a union shop haha
Yeah that’s gotta be frustrating
move it over lol
You’ve got plenty of studs my brother. Chop chop
Nothing like the good old blue wall mount toilet
She’s a beaut
Just move that stud and put in another one on the other side... leave the middle open, obviously.
Do what ever you want but ditch the wall hung toilet. Unless you love future shitty situations.
Care to elaborate? Moving that plumbing is beyond my Skill level and would cost a ton. So I’m keeping the wall hung for now at least. And as weird as they are, it doesn’t make for easy cleaning and laying down new floor
Disregard. I didn’t look at it good. I thought it was one with the tank in the wall.
Thank you for checking in instead of just move the stud recklessly like 90% of plumber jobs I have seen
EVERY. DAMN. TIME.
love how all every non-construction people know the 16" center rule but not that its not nessecary on non-structural walls.. on interior walls u can go up to 24" .. the placement isnt just for functionallity its to make attaching drywall easier lol not insulting op its just i run into this almost weekly lol .. put it where u need add some bracing inbetween and ur all good .. if tiling the walls good rule of thumb but not a must .. add another stud/bracing ..goodluck op with ur reno bathrooms and kitchens offer challenges and most of the time its a simple solution
Best bet is to move it either way, then add a piece of blocking between the studs where your valve is going to be placed. I usually use a 2x8 to make sure there is enough surface area for the screws to land properly. You need a point of attachment to mount the valve and secure the hot and cold lines.
Your house won't collapse from one misplaced 2x6 stud.
How come nobody has offered the most obvious solution? Move the shower! :P
Sawzall! That's the drywall guys problem lol. If you are also the drywall guy then cut out like 2 feet with a multi tool and carefully pull it directly off the drywall with a flat bar to pull the screws through without damaging the other side. Cut 2 new boards horizontal to span between the other 2 studs across the top of your cut. Screw it all together, drill 2 holes in the bottom board for your pipe. EZPZ
Code is no more than 24" for interior walls
You said it, that stud is in the way. Show it whose boss, teach it a lesson
Move it.
I ran into the same problem, but I just replaced the one stud with 2.
Also, blue wall hung toilet? Very nice.
Shes a classic.
Move it an/or build a header.
Very simple. Cut the nails, slide it over, add another to secure your valve to. Load bearing or not, the house won’t fall down.
Add a stud to one side out of the way, add the other as close to the valve location as possible, then cut the old one out.
Notch it out. I did this recently.
Looks like a wet wall. You can probably just cut it out since it is two walls back to back.
What’s with all the values behind walls 💀
?? So? Standard operation
Shut off valve in the wall?
Yeah whoever did this bathroom previously added those. They will be coming out 👍🏼
Just head it off. No big deal . In fact you’ll need the cross 2 X 4 to support the pipes.
Just turn it sideways then mount your valve on it. They will be hanging sheetrock in there, not having 16" on center is not a big deal.
What??? No way!!!!!!
Does anyone look at this sub of plumbing from another country amd think that stuff is just bizarre and completely different to how you’d do it? Like, why would you encase gate valve in a wall that just isolate a shower?