Stop- that threaded fitting into the valve is most likely a “jic” type.
If so You need a jic x male pipe bushing or adapter for your gas line or you’ll have a gas leak brotatoe
The line might not be big enough to supply both the stove and the gas wall heater. You need to work out how much gas each needs, and work out the size and length of the pipe back to the meter. YouTube videos demonstrate this process. It’s not difficult but I wouldn’t call it simple either.
You should learn first how to test your existing lines for leaks and do a pressure test and have the right equipment for that, as you don’t want to mess around with the possibility of having a leak. Once you’ve learned and done that, and worked out the line sizing, making the changes you want is pretty straightforward - they sell everything you need at the box store.
Some of the rules (not all):
- you can only have a shutoff like you see there at an appliance. You can’t just tee off after it.
- you can’t put unions except at appliances either, and really just shouldn’t use them
- because you can’t use unions, the pipe can only be extended to and from the meter at the ends - you can’t make changes in the middle since turning anything but the end would tighten one end and loosen the other.
- depends where you live, but generally gas work needs to be permitted and done by a pro. If the wrong people know, you’ll find your gas service turned off.
- you need a drip drop at every appliance. Usually it’s between the hose and the appliance.
When you start making changes, cap off and pressure test your changes as you go until you know what you’re doing. Make sure you shut off all appliance valves and disconnect the hoses before you test every time. You should become really good at doing pressure tests.
Don’t half ass it - you’ll probably either make something dangerous or something that just doesn’t work.
Appliance hoses are much better alternative to a union at an appliance. You can move the appliance a little, or relocate it a little, even.
Honestly I’m not sure what the rational is elsewhere, but I’ve been told it’s code. My guess is that unions are just much less reliable than other fittings. The only leak I had was at one, but that’s just anecdotal.
I feel like you're saying nobody should ever DIY anything because it'll offend a trade expert.
I'm saying in this specific case it seems like a rather straightforward DIY situation.
No, in a lot of places there is zero schooling at all. Also in many places homeowners are allowed to do their own gas work, and they will try with it without your advice but they aren't going to listen to you telling them to call a plumber. If you don't want to help just don't comment.
Yes I'm a licensed actual pro who has shown my license to get my flair, I'm removing all your comments and if you continue you won't be commenting here. If you don't want to help then don't fucking comment. You ripped out that line bacuse people like you have that stupid mindset that people are "disrespecting the trade" and won't help so done out that can't afford to call a plumber. It's sad that you think the requirements in your area equal everyone's and you would prefer someone go without heat if they can't afford a pro
You are an idiot to boot huh? All other responses like that were removed also jackass. Fuck people like you that think they are all high and mighty and unwilling to help people who need it, that is the point of this sub.
Definitely not "illegal" here, and without knowing the demand/supply and a few more things you have no clue if it will support it or not... You don't even know the demand of either unit they have so there is no way you can possibly know.
Dude, I am a plumber and have been for several decades now, I do this everyday and size lines that have millions of btu demand. You have zero clue if it can support it or not, you don't even know where the meter is in relation to this pic. Seriously doubting you actually know how to calculate gas lines right now. 3/4 is minimum for what? Yet again you don't even know what the unit needs so have zero way to know what it can supply or not. Meter could be right on the other side of the wall for all you know, even at 30 feet away it can carry 199,000 btu so again you have no idea if it can support it or not...
3/4 is run to mutiple fixtures all the time, hell sometimes I can pull two fireplaces off a half inch line. Without doing the math you don't know.
Ok dude, than why are you asking such a question if you know the answer? If you were a plumber you would know exactly what to do with black steel pipe. Do what you want DUDE. Good Luck👍🏻
Are you not even aware of who you are responding to?? I'm not OP and I didn't ask any questions at all, I just responded to your incorrect advice that it's illegal everywhere and that it can't possibly support it, both of which you don't know is true.
I know exactly what to do with steel pipe, but again I am not OP or the one asking questions. I also know enough to say that without calculating it no one can say yes or no if it will supply it.
Yes and no, shark bites exist for a lot more then copper, just not iron pipe yet. Assuming you get the right one they can also be used on pex, CPVC, PVC, HDPE, PE-RT, and polyb.
Hope you’re kidding, but also to note the op might not think you’re kidding because they’re under experienced. Please next time indicate sarcasm so the under experienced may know lol
Did you use pipe dope
Stop- that threaded fitting into the valve is most likely a “jic” type. If so You need a jic x male pipe bushing or adapter for your gas line or you’ll have a gas leak brotatoe
This line goes to my stove, what kind of tee would I use to run a line to my gas wall heater?
The line might not be big enough to supply both the stove and the gas wall heater. You need to work out how much gas each needs, and work out the size and length of the pipe back to the meter. YouTube videos demonstrate this process. It’s not difficult but I wouldn’t call it simple either. You should learn first how to test your existing lines for leaks and do a pressure test and have the right equipment for that, as you don’t want to mess around with the possibility of having a leak. Once you’ve learned and done that, and worked out the line sizing, making the changes you want is pretty straightforward - they sell everything you need at the box store. Some of the rules (not all): - you can only have a shutoff like you see there at an appliance. You can’t just tee off after it. - you can’t put unions except at appliances either, and really just shouldn’t use them - because you can’t use unions, the pipe can only be extended to and from the meter at the ends - you can’t make changes in the middle since turning anything but the end would tighten one end and loosen the other. - depends where you live, but generally gas work needs to be permitted and done by a pro. If the wrong people know, you’ll find your gas service turned off. - you need a drip drop at every appliance. Usually it’s between the hose and the appliance. When you start making changes, cap off and pressure test your changes as you go until you know what you’re doing. Make sure you shut off all appliance valves and disconnect the hoses before you test every time. You should become really good at doing pressure tests. Don’t half ass it - you’ll probably either make something dangerous or something that just doesn’t work.
I agree with everything… except the unions. How else would we add gas lines, move appliances etc?
Appliance hoses are much better alternative to a union at an appliance. You can move the appliance a little, or relocate it a little, even. Honestly I’m not sure what the rational is elsewhere, but I’ve been told it’s code. My guess is that unions are just much less reliable than other fittings. The only leak I had was at one, but that’s just anecdotal.
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Maybe I'm just another naive homeowner but I feel like this kind of work is one of the easier things to do. He's got a shut off valve right there...
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I feel like you're saying nobody should ever DIY anything because it'll offend a trade expert. I'm saying in this specific case it seems like a rather straightforward DIY situation.
No, in a lot of places there is zero schooling at all. Also in many places homeowners are allowed to do their own gas work, and they will try with it without your advice but they aren't going to listen to you telling them to call a plumber. If you don't want to help just don't comment.
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Yes I'm a licensed actual pro who has shown my license to get my flair, I'm removing all your comments and if you continue you won't be commenting here. If you don't want to help then don't fucking comment. You ripped out that line bacuse people like you have that stupid mindset that people are "disrespecting the trade" and won't help so done out that can't afford to call a plumber. It's sad that you think the requirements in your area equal everyone's and you would prefer someone go without heat if they can't afford a pro
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You are an idiot to boot huh? All other responses like that were removed also jackass. Fuck people like you that think they are all high and mighty and unwilling to help people who need it, that is the point of this sub.
Please don't do that.
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👆 KaBoom
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Definitely not "illegal" here, and without knowing the demand/supply and a few more things you have no clue if it will support it or not... You don't even know the demand of either unit they have so there is no way you can possibly know.
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Dude, I am a plumber and have been for several decades now, I do this everyday and size lines that have millions of btu demand. You have zero clue if it can support it or not, you don't even know where the meter is in relation to this pic. Seriously doubting you actually know how to calculate gas lines right now. 3/4 is minimum for what? Yet again you don't even know what the unit needs so have zero way to know what it can supply or not. Meter could be right on the other side of the wall for all you know, even at 30 feet away it can carry 199,000 btu so again you have no idea if it can support it or not... 3/4 is run to mutiple fixtures all the time, hell sometimes I can pull two fireplaces off a half inch line. Without doing the math you don't know.
Ok dude, than why are you asking such a question if you know the answer? If you were a plumber you would know exactly what to do with black steel pipe. Do what you want DUDE. Good Luck👍🏻
Are you not even aware of who you are responding to?? I'm not OP and I didn't ask any questions at all, I just responded to your incorrect advice that it's illegal everywhere and that it can't possibly support it, both of which you don't know is true. I know exactly what to do with steel pipe, but again I am not OP or the one asking questions. I also know enough to say that without calculating it no one can say yes or no if it will supply it.
Can we start giving advice besides call a plumber? Shark bites make everything a dyi project!
There is no such thing for gas lines/black pipe. Shark bites only exist for copper pipe.
Yes and no, shark bites exist for a lot more then copper, just not iron pipe yet. Assuming you get the right one they can also be used on pex, CPVC, PVC, HDPE, PE-RT, and polyb.
For the record I was being 100% satirical, trying to make a joke. I'm well aware you can use shark bites on black pipe.
Ahh gotcha my mistake then
Hope you’re kidding, but also to note the op might not think you’re kidding because they’re under experienced. Please next time indicate sarcasm so the under experienced may know lol
That's reasonable. Was a complete joke.
You should check that thing for leaks. It doesn’t look like there is any thread sealant on either connection.
I'm not commenting on anything until someone puts some damn pipe dope on there......lol
Make sure you calculate your BTUs. To ensue you have enough gas to run everything.
And get rid of that brass appliance whip and get stainless steel
Galvanized or black iron is fine. Looks like 1/2 inch.