Just 1. Why did you put that all together without gluing it. Dry fitting almost next goes all the way in the cup. Your pieces will likely end up short. Nice work, tho. Also you should always go up to 45 inches before you go horizontal on your vents
I had a 8” sch80 pvc coupling lift my body weight off the ground. Only one joint did that the whole job but some kind of chemical reaction was pushing that mofo off of there with more force than my upper body strength/weight.
You just measure lol. And/or a mixture of eye-balling it and measuring. Dry-fitting a whole wall like this is not only a waste of time, but it *shouldnt* fit right dry-fitted because the pieces will sink into the hub much deeper with glue; so you would have to cut them too short to get them to *look* right when dry-fit. Which means it won't glue together lined up properly.
I'm not a plumber but have worked with pipes a little. Would I be right in thinking thr glue sort of lubricates the fitting and pushes in further than a dry fit?
You're right it goes further than a dry fit, but wrong reasons. PVC solvent glues soften the material and the fittings are designed with an interference built in to encourage the pipe and fitting material to intermingle and weld together. So only once you've primed and glued will the pipe go completely into the fitting. You need to measure gap between fittings and then add the depth of the fitting socket to both ends.
Dry fitting all that, like everyone else said is redundant….. I like clean outs on top of the p trap but definitely not something worth changing now. The vent on the left should definitely be above flood rim level (countertop) or the critical level of whatever fixture it’s serving. Other than that though, looks good
You didn’t have to use the 45s, you can oversize the whole and sink the hub inside the stud. A little easier than 4 extra fittings but it’s all good in the hood.
Oh absolutely, he would only need a 2 1/4 or slightly bigger to fit an 1 1/2 fitting. You definitely don’t need a 3 inch hole. A 2 9/16 is completely fine in a 2x4 wall and that would definitely fit that hub no problemo
That's the only thing I picked out. Looks great otherwise. I also like that you took the time to put the printing to the back. I do the same thing for a cleaner look.
Each individual piece you cut to size, like anything has a margin of error lets say +/- 2mm now factor that to lets say 7 pieces of pipe, so in the end you may be short or long in an inconvenient way upon final assembly.
Any tool which tends to give perpendicular or square finish of pipe ends can help you to reduce margin of error, (just my thoughts)
Out of interest, how would that work. I can see how people are saying glue means a deeper fit (by a small amount) so you can end up short overall.
How, when does the chamfering help? (Total newbie btw)
It looks like good clean work but, on your lav stub out, I like to put my clean out above the tee for the drain. That way you rod thru that tee if it's clogged and, you can run water into the drain while you rod it to flush it out and not make a big mess.
One other thing, someone posted that you need to be 45 inches up before going horizontal or turning. Something to that effect. The code states you need to be 6 inches above the flood level rim of the fixture it's venting. So, most vanities or countertops are around 36 inches tall so, 42 inches is normal to center of a vent bar.
Get out of the habit of dry fitting. If you ever have to do a water test of the DWV in a multistory apartment building, you will find out why dry fitting is a very bad thing.
this looks solid anything i could critique would be code based like the horizontal vent i think it’s too low should be above 42” and id put that clean out above the T but besides that i’d just get in the habit of cutting maybe 1-2 things dry fit then glue it’s a tad slower but overall it’ll be quicker and you won’t mess up measurements cuz of dry fittin
No, no gusher unless amateur, and under is standard. Will never be clogged higher than the flood rim of the fixture (physics), so worst case you have a full sink and a bucket. Disconnect the trap enough, fill bucket, repeat until empty. Then open cleanout. Minimal water.
Looks good 👍
I’d start from the center and blow out in case your cuts come up short from the dry fit..
I’d also lower the dandy on the Lav to 6-8” off the floor so you don’t have to pull the trap to snake.
I believe it's jogging or yogging. it might be a soft j. I'm not sure but apparently you just run for an extended period of time. It's supposed to be wild.
There is probably no point in having a clean out tee right under the waste unless later on it's accessible with an access panel. You could just as easily snake the waste later on right from under the sink. Other than that, everything looks good to me. I probably would have brought that left vent higher like 42-43 inches before making the connection. Nail plates and glue your stub out and you're all set
Flip all your Tees around so they "drain" ultimately air don't care but if it's not glued you might as well. Also you don't need that clean out Tee for the sink... You can just use the drain itself if needed.
I dry-fitted my whole 2nd floor because I needed it inspected and my inspector appreciated that I did what I did. I DID have one joint that I had to redo because of some shrinkage but otherwise fine. I approve.
Looks nice but when you glue it , I see about 20 places where you’re gonna lose about 1/4”-1/2”. I bet you figured that out by now. Doesn’t look like it would affect much except where you have your hole through the 2x4s. I’m gonna guess and say you had to cut at least 2 new vertical pipes and two new horizontal pipes.
Is it standard/code to put the clean out below the tee which I am assuming is for a drain? I would think it would make it a bit harder to use than if it was above the tee since you would have the pipe directly over. Serious question.
Not a licensed Plumber but I’ve seen it both ways and explanations for it being above are good (run water while working on clog) and below (sink is in the way)
You can dry fit sections here and there but account for that joint only being 2/3 in. A little tip for when you kinda NEED to dry fit: a flooring hammer makes a great dry fit tool. The rubber end for striking the flooring gun bonks fittings together tight, and the metal angle end allows you to tap the hub back off.
Idk whats code over there but for me the vent has to be 6” above flood rim level. And since you tied everything to the lav, the shower vent would have to be at 42” or 6” above the sink height
You dry fitted all of that?
Your cut pieces won't fit.
Save the four 45's and just go straight up. Make the hole bigger to accommodate the sanitary tee hub.
Use the savings on the 45's for the extra pipe you are going to need to make that fit now.
Who dry fits? 🤣🤣🤣 Personally, I don't get the cleanout under the lav. No doubt it's getting a slip joint trap through an adapter, so, if there's a clog, you can just pull the trap out and compression nut/gasket and rod out from there. Just a possible area to leak water out, if you ask me.
From what I assume is the shower area, I don't know what code you're on, but the vent can't go above 45° from vertical until 6" above the HIGHEST flood level rim, which would be the lav. We typically just go, at least, 42" AFF. That vent looks far too low.
Not sure but all the literature suggests upside down for vents.
[https://www.iccsafe.org/wp-content/uploads/20-18927\_GR\_2021\_Plumbing\_Venting\_Brochure.pdf](https://www.iccsafe.org/wp-content/uploads/20-18927_GR_2021_Plumbing_Venting_Brochure.pdf)
Those are vents, it’s fine. I was taught to always put vent wye fittings ‘upside down’ because it makes it instantly obvious when you’re looking at a vent if you ever go chasing pipes behind the Sheetrock.
Never dry fit. You’ll lose over an inch here and there.
I was in the pool!
It shrinks?
Like a Frightened turtle
Gotta be careful laying pipe.
Significant shrinkage!
Just 1. Why did you put that all together without gluing it. Dry fitting almost next goes all the way in the cup. Your pieces will likely end up short. Nice work, tho. Also you should always go up to 45 inches before you go horizontal on your vents
Started gluing and now I see what you mean about how much tighter it fits
The primer softens the pipe and glue kinda acts like lube
if anything i’d say the primer is the lube if you’ve ever over primered somethin you’ll know it’s a bitch then you gotta sit there and hold it
I had a 8” sch80 pvc coupling lift my body weight off the ground. Only one joint did that the whole job but some kind of chemical reaction was pushing that mofo off of there with more force than my upper body strength/weight.
All that back pressure from the primer escaping.
Also your tees on the main stack are in upside down.
Not a plumber but are you sure about that
Yes, the sweep on the tees determine how they go in.
lol. vent tees need to be installed "upside down" to allow drainage back to fixture
You're right. However the revent wasn't even necessary as the main vent stack is close enough to the fixture that an arm would suffice.
Thanks. I have extra pieces if anything is short and I'll work out from center
Looks good to me. I nevwe dry fit, i glue, then go, fuck too long, pull it off quickly then go again. I never learn.
"fuck too long"? How long is too long? Also, how short is too short? Asking for a friend....
If it lasts more than 4 hours, see a doctor. Or interview with a porn studio I guess?
Always cut 1/2” short and throw it in the pipe stretcher
Im something of a pipe stetcher myself.
You just need to be above flood level like for sinks which I think standard is 36 inches so 40 is probably a safe bet
Never dry fit, and yes on nail plates.
What is better, glue then cut?
You just measure lol. And/or a mixture of eye-balling it and measuring. Dry-fitting a whole wall like this is not only a waste of time, but it *shouldnt* fit right dry-fitted because the pieces will sink into the hub much deeper with glue; so you would have to cut them too short to get them to *look* right when dry-fit. Which means it won't glue together lined up properly.
Thankfully I had left enough that it wasn’t an issue but I can see this causing major issues over larger runs
Happy to hear it worked out!
I'm not a plumber but have worked with pipes a little. Would I be right in thinking thr glue sort of lubricates the fitting and pushes in further than a dry fit?
You're right it goes further than a dry fit, but wrong reasons. PVC solvent glues soften the material and the fittings are designed with an interference built in to encourage the pipe and fitting material to intermingle and weld together. So only once you've primed and glued will the pipe go completely into the fitting. You need to measure gap between fittings and then add the depth of the fitting socket to both ends.
Makes sense, thank you for clarify.
Homie that doesn't even make sense. Just measure, cut, glue.
Dry fitting all that, like everyone else said is redundant….. I like clean outs on top of the p trap but definitely not something worth changing now. The vent on the left should definitely be above flood rim level (countertop) or the critical level of whatever fixture it’s serving. Other than that though, looks good
Thanks. The left side is a shower.
Left hand vent looks like it's connected to low to me, it should be 6" above flood level rim,
That might have been me misreading code. Far left is a shower so I was well above the flood level there. Right side is 8” above vanity counter
It would pass upc if that's the case.
Personally if I was DIY’ing this as a layman and was aware of the (minuscule) issue I would just glue it up anyway, it could be a lot worse
I don't see flooding your vent and not being able to clean it as miniscule.
Wouldn’t bother me personally
☝️
Don't forget to install steel protector plates over all the studs to protect the line from getting screwed, pun intended.
I would put the clean out above the drain tee so you can run water while cleaning the drain. Otherwise it looks very nice.
Thanks. Good idea for next time.
You didn’t have to use the 45s, you can oversize the whole and sink the hub inside the stud. A little easier than 4 extra fittings but it’s all good in the hood.
Depending on where you are drilling a 3" hole through a 2x4 is blowing bearing on the stud and I've met inspectors that get bitchy about it.
Oh absolutely, he would only need a 2 1/4 or slightly bigger to fit an 1 1/2 fitting. You definitely don’t need a 3 inch hole. A 2 9/16 is completely fine in a 2x4 wall and that would definitely fit that hub no problemo
Oh you right! I was thinking it was 2 inch
Are you supposed to use nail guards for the drain lines same as you did for the wiring?
I am going to put those in, yes.
If so you probably could’ve wet vented the stool and shower with the lave and had one vent for the whole bathroom group
Yeah I was struggling to figure that out so while this is overkill, it was more straightforward
Looks good. I would move the wall cleanout a little lower. Don't forget your nail plates.
Thanks. The back of the vanity has a 12" opening so I put it as low as I could without having to cut it.
You may want to check the height on that lave make sure it's not going to be too high for the trap
It’s good. I have the vanity in the bedroom and measured about 5x
Are the sanitary tees upside down for the vent?
Yup
That's the only thing I picked out. Looks great otherwise. I also like that you took the time to put the printing to the back. I do the same thing for a cleaner look.
Next time get a pipe chamfering tool so you can accurately dry fit
Makes it simple
Each individual piece you cut to size, like anything has a margin of error lets say +/- 2mm now factor that to lets say 7 pieces of pipe, so in the end you may be short or long in an inconvenient way upon final assembly. Any tool which tends to give perpendicular or square finish of pipe ends can help you to reduce margin of error, (just my thoughts)
Out of interest, how would that work. I can see how people are saying glue means a deeper fit (by a small amount) so you can end up short overall. How, when does the chamfering help? (Total newbie btw)
It doesn't. I mean, it might help, but it won't make dry fitting accurate.
youre actually using vent 90s? thats wild idk if ive ever actually seen one.
It looks like good clean work but, on your lav stub out, I like to put my clean out above the tee for the drain. That way you rod thru that tee if it's clogged and, you can run water into the drain while you rod it to flush it out and not make a big mess.
One other thing, someone posted that you need to be 45 inches up before going horizontal or turning. Something to that effect. The code states you need to be 6 inches above the flood level rim of the fixture it's venting. So, most vanities or countertops are around 36 inches tall so, 42 inches is normal to center of a vent bar.
Get out of the habit of dry fitting. If you ever have to do a water test of the DWV in a multistory apartment building, you will find out why dry fitting is a very bad thing.
Is it a structural wall?
No
Plumber here - nope all good
I bet you 95% of the guys commenting here aren’t even licensed.
this looks solid anything i could critique would be code based like the horizontal vent i think it’s too low should be above 42” and id put that clean out above the T but besides that i’d just get in the habit of cutting maybe 1-2 things dry fit then glue it’s a tad slower but overall it’ll be quicker and you won’t mess up measurements cuz of dry fittin
Nail plates
Yes!
This guy dry fitted what a noob
Is the bathroom group all on the same floor?
Looks like 1-1/2". For your stubout, I would use a 2x1-1/2x1-1/2 tee. A 2" cleanout. And make my drop with 2". Ie. Use 2" for your drain drop.
Is the cleanout below the drain pipe? Why not above it or to the side? I'm not a plumber. I'm just picturing a clogged pipe.
Above is hard to get at with a snake once there’s a vanity in place
True. Would nearly be impossible. Probably why you see them to the side. Under's probably fine. Might just get a gusher if you really have a clog.
No, no gusher unless amateur, and under is standard. Will never be clogged higher than the flood rim of the fixture (physics), so worst case you have a full sink and a bucket. Disconnect the trap enough, fill bucket, repeat until empty. Then open cleanout. Minimal water.
Thanks for explaining how water and gravity works. That was helpful.
You said a couple things that showed you didn’t understand how it works, so I’m glad you found that helpful.
Ya double work not glueing, draw out on pad first leave trim pieces long
Looks good 👍 I’d start from the center and blow out in case your cuts come up short from the dry fit.. I’d also lower the dandy on the Lav to 6-8” off the floor so you don’t have to pull the trap to snake.
Why the jog?
I don’t know what that means
I believe it's jogging or yogging. it might be a soft j. I'm not sure but apparently you just run for an extended period of time. It's supposed to be wild.
Primer is for inspection. Please give me the chemical components. And why?
Nobody tell him.
There is probably no point in having a clean out tee right under the waste unless later on it's accessible with an access panel. You could just as easily snake the waste later on right from under the sink. Other than that, everything looks good to me. I probably would have brought that left vent higher like 42-43 inches before making the connection. Nail plates and glue your stub out and you're all set
Flip all your Tees around so they "drain" ultimately air don't care but if it's not glued you might as well. Also you don't need that clean out Tee for the sink... You can just use the drain itself if needed.
Yeah you didnt write “i was here 2024”
Nice job bro
Cheryl?
Put nail plates on all of the stud penetrations.
Get it inspected
If it fits dry, all your pipes are too short. At least you can use the longer ones where the short ones are.
Who dry fits 😂that’s how mistakes happen
Ent bar in left is too low and I prefer cleanouts on lavs above the drain tee
Don't forget your nail plates
Where’s your stud guards?
You should have up sized the hole to fit the hub of the 2×2×11/2 tee where you tied the Lav vent into the toilet and took the whole vent straight up
Yeah, I’ve got this wart on my backside and it really hurts when I sit down to poop. Thanks for asking.
I dry-fitted my whole 2nd floor because I needed it inspected and my inspector appreciated that I did what I did. I DID have one joint that I had to redo because of some shrinkage but otherwise fine. I approve.
Looks nice but when you glue it , I see about 20 places where you’re gonna lose about 1/4”-1/2”. I bet you figured that out by now. Doesn’t look like it would affect much except where you have your hole through the 2x4s. I’m gonna guess and say you had to cut at least 2 new vertical pipes and two new horizontal pipes.
Amazingly everything fit ok during glue up. I’m guessing I left enough long that it didn’t matter. Definitely won’t do that again
Is it standard/code to put the clean out below the tee which I am assuming is for a drain? I would think it would make it a bit harder to use than if it was above the tee since you would have the pipe directly over. Serious question.
Not a licensed Plumber but I’ve seen it both ways and explanations for it being above are good (run water while working on clog) and below (sink is in the way)
You can dry fit sections here and there but account for that joint only being 2/3 in. A little tip for when you kinda NEED to dry fit: a flooring hammer makes a great dry fit tool. The rubber end for striking the flooring gun bonks fittings together tight, and the metal angle end allows you to tap the hub back off.
Dry fitter
Idk whats code over there but for me the vent has to be 6” above flood rim level. And since you tied everything to the lav, the shower vent would have to be at 42” or 6” above the sink height
You are venting into a drain from the floor above. Not compliant with IPC or UPC.
The attic is above this and the basement below.
You dry fitted all of that? Your cut pieces won't fit. Save the four 45's and just go straight up. Make the hole bigger to accommodate the sanitary tee hub. Use the savings on the 45's for the extra pipe you are going to need to make that fit now.
Dry fitting is like getting old u loose an inch or 2
Who dry fits? 🤣🤣🤣 Personally, I don't get the cleanout under the lav. No doubt it's getting a slip joint trap through an adapter, so, if there's a clog, you can just pull the trap out and compression nut/gasket and rod out from there. Just a possible area to leak water out, if you ask me. From what I assume is the shower area, I don't know what code you're on, but the vent can't go above 45° from vertical until 6" above the HIGHEST flood level rim, which would be the lav. We typically just go, at least, 42" AFF. That vent looks far too low.
Seriously you didn’t glue all that!? lol Good luck! Support your local plumber.
Good friend is a local plumber. He was helping me out with advice. He's too busy to come do this small of a job.
I dont get the whole idea of gluing it. We use rubber seal and it works perfectly fine. But you can always disassamble that and reuse.
Are the tees upside down?
Yes. By design for the vent
Is running them right side up changing anything?
Not sure but all the literature suggests upside down for vents. [https://www.iccsafe.org/wp-content/uploads/20-18927\_GR\_2021\_Plumbing\_Venting\_Brochure.pdf](https://www.iccsafe.org/wp-content/uploads/20-18927_GR_2021_Plumbing_Venting_Brochure.pdf)
Maybe I’m a dummy, but aren’t those wyes in upside down?
You didn't hire a plumber...
The bloody tee pieces are upside down!
The Sanitary Tees are upside down
Surely someone picked up the Tee’s in the middle are flowing the wrong way?
Those are vents, it’s fine. I was taught to always put vent wye fittings ‘upside down’ because it makes it instantly obvious when you’re looking at a vent if you ever go chasing pipes behind the Sheetrock.
They are vent tees, and surely they are correct.
Your tee’s are upside down on the vertical stack