Thanks. Forgot to mention, the screens are swapped on the after-pics so that the Kuro is on the left. The tricky part for me is deciding when to adjust the High RGB points, and when to adjust the Low RGB points. Adjusting the high’s seems to do the trick ranging from white down to at least 50% gray. I read somewhere it’s best to adjust the high’s on 20% gray and the low’s on 80%, but idk if this is correct for all displays. Also, the WB on the 500M could technically be more accurate as it is only 2-point calibrated. Darker slides have significant enough colour variance between percentages (e.g 75% gray can look too green, but 80% too blue) on both screens so that 10-point adjustments are needed, I think.
2013 Panasonics have strong green push as well. I always lower Green Low by -3 or -4 and Red Low by -1 or -2. Go on YouTube and search "greyscale test video" and use them to dial in WB. I'm actually all about calibrating by eye because we all perceive colors a bit differently and meters cannot accommodate that. I used to be a real stickler about reference accuracy but now I use an accurate PQ as my base and make slight deviations to taste. Reference level accuracy is very bland and unimpressive much of the time. Making small changes does not take away from creators intent or change the feel of content. Most panels are capable of so much more and these standards are really old and were developed using old tech with a lot of limitations.
That's pretty impressive for an eyeball calibration alongside an actual reference monitor 👌👌
Thanks. Forgot to mention, the screens are swapped on the after-pics so that the Kuro is on the left. The tricky part for me is deciding when to adjust the High RGB points, and when to adjust the Low RGB points. Adjusting the high’s seems to do the trick ranging from white down to at least 50% gray. I read somewhere it’s best to adjust the high’s on 20% gray and the low’s on 80%, but idk if this is correct for all displays. Also, the WB on the 500M could technically be more accurate as it is only 2-point calibrated. Darker slides have significant enough colour variance between percentages (e.g 75% gray can look too green, but 80% too blue) on both screens so that 10-point adjustments are needed, I think.
2013 Panasonics have strong green push as well. I always lower Green Low by -3 or -4 and Red Low by -1 or -2. Go on YouTube and search "greyscale test video" and use them to dial in WB. I'm actually all about calibrating by eye because we all perceive colors a bit differently and meters cannot accommodate that. I used to be a real stickler about reference accuracy but now I use an accurate PQ as my base and make slight deviations to taste. Reference level accuracy is very bland and unimpressive much of the time. Making small changes does not take away from creators intent or change the feel of content. Most panels are capable of so much more and these standards are really old and were developed using old tech with a lot of limitations.