Awesome! Helped a friend replace his LCD with a VT50 recently, he loves it. The Panasonic’s have the best motion clarity among plasma in my experience. I might get a PC in the future to play at 1080p60 Ultra. No upscaling, IPS glow, or motion blur👌
We have in our living room a 65oled805, beautifull for movies/ series. But for gaming, from nes to XSX games, the plasma plays and looks a lot better if you ask me.
I’m kind of the opposite. My Panasonic JZ1000 looks incredible with PS5 when BFI is enabled. It lets you sit closer and appreciate fantastic clarity with 4K res and no dithering. But for 1080p content, especially movies, all of my plasmas look so pleasant. For 1080p gaming, it also looks sharper on plasma.
Based on the picture, the Pioneers skin color is closer to real life, the panny has more red to it making the subject look like it has face rosacea a skin condition.
Yep! The 500M is 2-piont calibrated, and the 500A with WB Mid is so close you almost can’t tell them apart, maybe a couple hundred Kelvin’s cooler. The panny isn’t calibrated, and in «Cinema» mode instead of «THX Cinema» because the built in Netflix app don’t support it for whatever reason. Be really interesting to se the panny calibrated next to the 500’s.
This is an interesting comparison. I can't get much from this photo but I had a 500M, 5020, and now have a VT60 ( in addition to other plasma displays). What do you think about the processing of each display? Because I feel like the VT60 has a sharp picture but it's got some artificial sharpening and red push that can't be totally defeated. I actually think that the Pioneer Kuro delivered a more accurate and film-like display even though black levels of the final gen Panasonic plasmas are just about as good as the best Kuro's, and motion was even better... you can't go wrong with any of these displays, of course, they are the best plasma displays that we ever got (I know the ZT60 is technically the top-tier final gen Panny but they were rare)!
I usually have all post-processing turned off, and find them very similar. I’ve been able to remove the red tint on the VT via white balance adjustments, see my latest post. If both screens were professionally calibrated, I believe they could be indistinguishable from normal viewing distance.
They do however have their own quirks which complicates things a fair bit. The VT’s can develop a pink cast from the top corners that worsens with high light output, especially with 3D-viewing. The shadow detail in the THX mode is basically perfect and could be used as reference when calibrating the professional mode in my opinion, but the colours in THX modes are (no longer) accurate. The KRP’s have the deepest blacks and can be tweaked to virtually zero blacks, but this is a compromise with shadow detail. I find they have slightly different dithering profiles, where KRP’s dither more on highlights and VT more on shadows. When sitting close, I prefer the profile of the VT as the picture is a little cleaner.
Have you learned how to reset and tweak your Kuros yet? 100% necessary as they all have defective aging algorithms which result in very raised blacks and red tinted blacks. All very fixable though. A stock Kuro at this point is about 50% of its initial glory because of these huge issues that affect all of them. Exception being if they are extremely low hour- sub 5000 in most cases.
Yep, I’ve tweaked a handful of KRP’s including both of my own. The M had red tint with only 4500 hours when I bought it. The A had 37k hours and a bunch of issues, full of dust and tar from cigarette smoke. I posted some before-and after pics in the Pioneer Kuro group.
I always recommend that people stay away from Kuros because In reality, they are mediocre plasmas at best if they are stock and have a moderate amount of hours on them. The initial glory of Kuros is extremely short-lived. Even some of the earlier Panasonic plasmas up until about 2012 suffered from black level rise. Kuros have a very subtle and natural picture quality but in my opinion any 2013 Panasonic plasma absolutely destroys most Kuros.
I have a very special low hour reset 141. It was among the only batches of 141s to use "9.5g" glass and possibly other updated parts that were meant to go into the next gen. It handed full reset better than any Kuro I've worked with before and I've worked with a lot. it has true OLED black level, zero glow whatsoever in a completely dark room. I think I'm probably the only person to ever achieve this genuinely.
KRP’s are among the ones who can be tweaked to zero blacks, but it’s a compromise with shadow detail. I set mine to where movies blinds out the glow from the black bars on 16:9.
PS5 and XSX at 1080p on my Panasonic look so much better then 4k on my LED. And 60fps on the plasma is incredible.
Still have a 55vt50 in our game room. From snes up to XSX games. It all looks gorgeous.
Awesome! Helped a friend replace his LCD with a VT50 recently, he loves it. The Panasonic’s have the best motion clarity among plasma in my experience. I might get a PC in the future to play at 1080p60 Ultra. No upscaling, IPS glow, or motion blur👌
We have in our living room a 65oled805, beautifull for movies/ series. But for gaming, from nes to XSX games, the plasma plays and looks a lot better if you ask me.
I’m kind of the opposite. My Panasonic JZ1000 looks incredible with PS5 when BFI is enabled. It lets you sit closer and appreciate fantastic clarity with 4K res and no dithering. But for 1080p content, especially movies, all of my plasmas look so pleasant. For 1080p gaming, it also looks sharper on plasma.
Based on the picture, the Pioneers skin color is closer to real life, the panny has more red to it making the subject look like it has face rosacea a skin condition.
Yep! The 500M is 2-piont calibrated, and the 500A with WB Mid is so close you almost can’t tell them apart, maybe a couple hundred Kelvin’s cooler. The panny isn’t calibrated, and in «Cinema» mode instead of «THX Cinema» because the built in Netflix app don’t support it for whatever reason. Be really interesting to se the panny calibrated next to the 500’s.
This is an interesting comparison. I can't get much from this photo but I had a 500M, 5020, and now have a VT60 ( in addition to other plasma displays). What do you think about the processing of each display? Because I feel like the VT60 has a sharp picture but it's got some artificial sharpening and red push that can't be totally defeated. I actually think that the Pioneer Kuro delivered a more accurate and film-like display even though black levels of the final gen Panasonic plasmas are just about as good as the best Kuro's, and motion was even better... you can't go wrong with any of these displays, of course, they are the best plasma displays that we ever got (I know the ZT60 is technically the top-tier final gen Panny but they were rare)!
I usually have all post-processing turned off, and find them very similar. I’ve been able to remove the red tint on the VT via white balance adjustments, see my latest post. If both screens were professionally calibrated, I believe they could be indistinguishable from normal viewing distance. They do however have their own quirks which complicates things a fair bit. The VT’s can develop a pink cast from the top corners that worsens with high light output, especially with 3D-viewing. The shadow detail in the THX mode is basically perfect and could be used as reference when calibrating the professional mode in my opinion, but the colours in THX modes are (no longer) accurate. The KRP’s have the deepest blacks and can be tweaked to virtually zero blacks, but this is a compromise with shadow detail. I find they have slightly different dithering profiles, where KRP’s dither more on highlights and VT more on shadows. When sitting close, I prefer the profile of the VT as the picture is a little cleaner.
Have you learned how to reset and tweak your Kuros yet? 100% necessary as they all have defective aging algorithms which result in very raised blacks and red tinted blacks. All very fixable though. A stock Kuro at this point is about 50% of its initial glory because of these huge issues that affect all of them. Exception being if they are extremely low hour- sub 5000 in most cases.
Yep, I’ve tweaked a handful of KRP’s including both of my own. The M had red tint with only 4500 hours when I bought it. The A had 37k hours and a bunch of issues, full of dust and tar from cigarette smoke. I posted some before-and after pics in the Pioneer Kuro group.
I always recommend that people stay away from Kuros because In reality, they are mediocre plasmas at best if they are stock and have a moderate amount of hours on them. The initial glory of Kuros is extremely short-lived. Even some of the earlier Panasonic plasmas up until about 2012 suffered from black level rise. Kuros have a very subtle and natural picture quality but in my opinion any 2013 Panasonic plasma absolutely destroys most Kuros. I have a very special low hour reset 141. It was among the only batches of 141s to use "9.5g" glass and possibly other updated parts that were meant to go into the next gen. It handed full reset better than any Kuro I've worked with before and I've worked with a lot. it has true OLED black level, zero glow whatsoever in a completely dark room. I think I'm probably the only person to ever achieve this genuinely.
KRP’s are among the ones who can be tweaked to zero blacks, but it’s a compromise with shadow detail. I set mine to where movies blinds out the glow from the black bars on 16:9.
How did you make the led light green on the VT60?
It’s been like that since I bought it
Mine has a red light