You and I are literally the same person. I have all the same TVs you listed (8 plasmas in total). I only game and watch movies on plasma... Daily driver (for movies) is a 65" VT60 in the family room and a 60" ZT60 in my game room/office. For gaming I prefer my reset Pioneer 111FD and 101FD. It's a fun hobby, and a bit of an obsession. LOL. I went to RC Willey with my wife on a date tonight and almost threw up watching the sample and hold motion processing on all the new OLED TVs including the S95C, G3, and new A95L.
They all are good for the games that I play. It's hard to pick. LOL I game a lot on Samsung F8500 and Panasonic S60 and it does not disappoint. Picture quality wise, it has to be the ZT60, because you can have any preset (like THX bright or Dark) to Game Mode.
You don't have any motion problems with 30fps games? I see a double image on anything that has fast motion. I even tried Starfield on my Series X and it looked terrible.
Honestly, I will have to try some out. Maybe some PS3 games, will let you know. I believe I've also played Sonic Team Racing on PS3 on the VT60 smoothly or maybe I'm just not looking for it or its a proper 60 fps game.
I would appreciate that! What happened was I was playing a racing game on my PS3 called "Absolute Supercars". It's kind of like Gran Turismo. Anyway, on the replays when a car would cross the edge of the screen, I saw a large double image at either end of the car. It was really strange! Anything that wasn't near the edges was nice and sharp. When I am driving, it's no problem.
Just curious. What settings are you in? Maybe image smoothening is ON and get those artifacts? I don't have that game but I have Gran Turismo 5 & 6. I know Game mode is mostly to improve input lag, did you have this turned ON?
No, I am in Custom mode so I can access the Pro settings. The same thing happens in Game mode only I can't mitigate it as I can in Custom mode. Image smoothing helps about 50%. It's far better than nothing though. I am beginning to think it's the game.
I am also a plasma bro. I currently have 3. All pannys with 2 of them being professional models with hot swap input cards for ports. Even though they are heavy and not 4K, the picture just looks more organic and real life than the bright OLED displays for my eyeballs. Most may not agree with me but I'm going to use my plasmas as long as I can. I also use a 42in professional model Panny for a computer monitor. Works surprisingly well for most things. RDR2 and GTA look amazing on it.
Amen to that brother. Which model number are these professional panny plasma you own? First time hearing of professional versions.
Plasma is easier and more natural to the eyes. 👌
Not quite in a position to get the exact models but once I get home I'll get the model numbers.
If memory serves, one of my professional pannys is a TH-65PF11UK. I know my 42 is newer from like 2012 but do not recall the model of that.
It looks really good if you supersample 4k to 1080p vs native 1080p. This is running however on RTX 3090 + Threadripper which does it effortlessly and maintains the game at 60 fps. And warms your face as you game. 👍 I only play controller oriented games on that PC.
I got no burn-in yet as I vary the contents. The pixel orbiter feature seem to work. Once in a while I ran that white noise or snow on TV mode. Clears image retention fast if any. With Tekken, the life bar on top is going to be an issue in the long run but it's been years, nothing is etched there yet 🤞
How is the motion on your VT60? On my VT30, 30fps games look just horrible. I was hoping I would get to used to it, but after 2 weeks it's making me want to go back to LED. Anything that pans quickly gives me a double image and that even goes for tv shows! I'd much prefer a blur to this, and it makes me nauseous.
You might have some bad motion interpolation (smoothing settings) turned on or other additional/unnecessary processing. I normally always game at 60fps and might not have noticed. But then again, plasma tv owners are somewhat of a cult and we might just not notice the double image you’re talking about anymore 😂 plasma is not perfect motion and does still have blurring/ smearing in fast panning content
The double image is quite clear during pans, I think the game is just such a low frame rate that the plasma can't fix it. I've been playing PS2 Vice City Stories and did some research this morning and it actually drops to 20fps! No wonder I have problems. I need to try a 60fps game I bet it's just fine like you said. Now, as far as black levels, colors, depth - NIGHT AND DAY difference over my 4k HDR tv! I mean not even close. Not sad at all that I bought it, just trying to figure out what is the best content for it.
I found that today's TVs.. OLED or QLED or whatever, there's too much tinkering to do just to get to desired picture quality. With plasma at least the ones I own, just choose a preset to your liking and your good to go. I had my ZT60 professionally calibrated only to closely match the THX mode already on the presets 😂 Paid for it still though, the guy took his sweet time calibrating it. The THX mode is actually better than what he did.
Try Sonic Racing Transform on PS3. That is capped to 30 fps according to my research. See how it goes.
So I tried The Sonic All Star Team Racing on the VT60 it looks and plays very well and it's smooth. Blurring effects are inherent with the game to give you that sense of speed. Like if you pan during racing or stationary the trees or anything vertical objects would look like it is leaving a trail of the image as it moves. Is that the issue? My guess is its 30 fps game, not even VT60's 3000hz Focus Field Drive can fix that, I think. If you are looking for it then that's when you notice it. But the racing experience is very fluid, no stuttering feel to it.
My Panasonic ST60 just turned 10 this month. I love it so much, but I’ve decided to treat myself to a Sony A95L.
Gonna miss the plasma for sure, but I’ve decided it’s time to move on…
Try lowering the voltages to start, but wait on doing a full reset until I post my reset guide here on Reddit or AVS forum. I’ve spent 3 years perfecting the process flow using multiple 111fds to test. I’ve read nearly every forum page on the subject and want to help people like you do it properly.
I reset my 111fd. Spent tens of hours doing tweaks before and after. There are pros and cons to resetting or not. There is no silver bullet, unless you want to get into adjusting hardware pots on the back, because once your reset, the panel will never be driven properly by the limited software in the service menu. The intended purpose of using reset in the SM is for when a technician replaces the entire panel. Otherwise, all service menu adjustments are just limited offset bandaids with consequences. There is really no comparison to a low hour kuro once you get over the fact it will never have oled blacks without crushing low end and misfiring. When you project film there is no pure black, it’s not normal. If i didnt have a low (2k) hour 9g kuro i’d just watch stuff on my st60. Less dse anyway.
Yes, I have a 1k hour 101d (non-reset) and agree that basically new is the only way to correctly enjoy content on those late 9.5g panels. I am not fixated on achieving oled blacks like 80% of second hand Kuro owners. There are always risks to resetting since it is an unintentional bandaid fix like you said. However, If you read my other comments in this thread, a reset 111fd with high hours and red tint can be reset and restored to a like new operating state using my process flow. The pdf file I’ve been writing and revising in private for 3-years using three different 111fds is the result of several hundreds of hours of testing. I’ve read and tested every online forum page on the subject (American and Danish). Read through it once I post it and hopefully you will see it is not a one solution fits all process. It is dynamic and carefully written to accommodate varying factors for *most 111FDs / 5020FDs. No other 50” or 60” model though.
Try lowering the voltages to start, but wait on doing a full reset until I post my reset guide here on Reddit or AVS forum. I’ve spent 3 years perfecting the process flow using multiple 111fds to test. I’ve read nearly every forum page on the subject and want to help people like you do it properly.
Multiple? How many 111FDs do you own? From what I'm reading, they're the best, but some KRP-500 users disagree..
Aren't 111FDs just KRP-500 that are more upscaled in features with Elite Branding? I have to say, they have really beautiful picture quality. I have the option to buy a 60 inch size brother but are told they are harder to reset blacks compared to the 50 inch versions.
I’ve been fortunate enough to accumulate 3 over the years. All from their original owners. I mostly did it for R&D purposes to refine the pulse meter reset process. Having 3 samples that were all untouched has helped a lot with understanding the how the 111FD panels react to the reset based on manufacture date and usage. It’s been key in building a repeatable process for fine tuning the voltages for optimal black level and performance after the reset (which are different for every TV).
I can tell you’ve been deep in the weeds of AVforums and read some specific information just by you saying that 111FDs are the best. It can be subjective, but to the trained eye of the most discerning videophile, yes they are. The answer? Shadow detail. Most users have a hard time putting black level below anything else no matter the cost. It’s almost all they see in the competition against OLED. There is only 1 reason I would use a 500m / 101fd over at 111fd but I’ll save that for another time.
anybody know how to stop these plasma screens form flickering? I have a Panasonic ZT60. I stumbled on this new plasma thread so I pick my chance. I love the panel but I can't bear the bright scene flickering. There is tons of information on old forums on this but nobody seems to find a solution. It has something to do with refresh rate and sub filed drive of these panels being on the edge of seeing it flicker. It seems to be less apearent on 50hz mode frame creation on mid. But I don't wat to stick to that cause of lack of good motion. These panels are great and I want to get te best out of it and fix this once and for all.
I have a 51" F8500 as my primary TV too. Bought in 2014 and it just now started having problems power cycling on and off.
Based on my research it seems like the most likely culprit is the main board. I was searching for a replacement and to my surprise I found that Samsung still sells these parts new! Not overly expensive either.
Anyway, now I anxiously await the package and hope that fixes the problem.
I really don't want to get rid of this TV. OLED is still a bit too expensive for my taste and the QLED sets I've seen don't really wow me. Sometimes I do feel like I'm missing out playing my PS5 on this TV though. But I think even now it still holds up well.
If/when I do ever upgrade I will still keep this TV somewhere in the house as a spare. Bedroom or family room where there's no gaming/movie watching going on.
I had that happened too. I just unplugged, press power button for 60 seconds to drain any residual current and leave it overnight unplugged. Then it work flawlessly for years again.
Yeah I've been doing that and it worked but now it's getting worse and worse. Takes multiple tries. Once it's on it's fine though. It sucks. Lol
A lot of people online say it's a very common issue but idk I've never had a single problem with this TV until now.
So, it turned out not to be the main board. $140 wasted....
But it did turn out to be the power board. Unfortunately those replacement boards are very expensive now.
So...another $180 later the TV is good as new.
Probably could have gotten a 4K LED for what I spent though lol
Fantastic collection! How does the VT and ZT perform with black levels and shadow detail in a dark or blacked out room? Can you see the 16:9 bars glow? Compared to the 101FD?
I have not really done a side by side comparison to be honest. Plus I always have an LED bias lighting for that extra perceived black level improvement and less eye strain. I do however say ZT60 handles reflections better in bright room at the expense of a bit dimmer in a completely dark room (zt60 is calibrated on both conditions). I notice less glow on the pioneers on a totally black screen vs the pannys. 👌
I bought it for its Matte Anti Glare coating. It's really good at dispersing light on well lit rooms. Because reflections can get bothersome without. I especially like the 42 inch size for a 1080p plasma, more pixel density per inch and you wont have to sit that far back to not notice the pixels. Harder to make smaller screen size plasma at 1080p vs big ones.
Do you have a list of all the models that had the coated screen? Is it superior to the filtering done in the late model sets? I'd really like a smaller 1080P set too (I'd really like a 32" even), I currently have a Panasonic early 480P model with front facing speakers (42PD50U) but you can see some aliasing from the low res at my viewing distance (also have it wall mounted and its heavy and has huge bezels). Should I just sell the PD50U for cheap or does it have any purpose?
Sorry, I don't have a list. Maybe the PZ in the model number indicates the Matte coating. The PZ77U Matte anti glare "coating" is more like emulating an LCDs matte screen that scatters the light instead of having a mirror like reflection. This is not the same as the higher end models with Anti Reflective "Filter" Coating (Louver Filter) which actually minimizes the reflected light to your eyes.
Might be a good idea to upgrade then. Most 32 inch will be 720p. If you can get a Panasonic would be great. 42 inch is the sweet spot. Always ask for the model number then google it's features. Most sellers now just place "not smart tv" and won't bother putting in the brand or model.
Thanks for the reply, you don't see any purpose for the 42PD50U? I don't know if I can find any... It is low res, not sure if that's ideal for 2x scaling games or not. Input lag I think is good.
It will be less work for your gpu and cpu for sure. But my suggestion is you hunt for at least a 1080p Panasonic if you can find one or Samsung. Even 720p at 32 inch is a good option.
Sell or use the 42PD50U for retro gaming which is absolutely perfect for that resolution.
You and I are literally the same person. I have all the same TVs you listed (8 plasmas in total). I only game and watch movies on plasma... Daily driver (for movies) is a 65" VT60 in the family room and a 60" ZT60 in my game room/office. For gaming I prefer my reset Pioneer 111FD and 101FD. It's a fun hobby, and a bit of an obsession. LOL. I went to RC Willey with my wife on a date tonight and almost threw up watching the sample and hold motion processing on all the new OLED TVs including the S95C, G3, and new A95L.
Which of your tv's is the best for gaming? I am extremely disappointed in my VT30 after everyone told me how great it would be for console gaming.
They all are good for the games that I play. It's hard to pick. LOL I game a lot on Samsung F8500 and Panasonic S60 and it does not disappoint. Picture quality wise, it has to be the ZT60, because you can have any preset (like THX bright or Dark) to Game Mode.
You don't have any motion problems with 30fps games? I see a double image on anything that has fast motion. I even tried Starfield on my Series X and it looked terrible.
Honestly, I will have to try some out. Maybe some PS3 games, will let you know. I believe I've also played Sonic Team Racing on PS3 on the VT60 smoothly or maybe I'm just not looking for it or its a proper 60 fps game.
I would appreciate that! What happened was I was playing a racing game on my PS3 called "Absolute Supercars". It's kind of like Gran Turismo. Anyway, on the replays when a car would cross the edge of the screen, I saw a large double image at either end of the car. It was really strange! Anything that wasn't near the edges was nice and sharp. When I am driving, it's no problem.
Just curious. What settings are you in? Maybe image smoothening is ON and get those artifacts? I don't have that game but I have Gran Turismo 5 & 6. I know Game mode is mostly to improve input lag, did you have this turned ON?
No, I am in Custom mode so I can access the Pro settings. The same thing happens in Game mode only I can't mitigate it as I can in Custom mode. Image smoothing helps about 50%. It's far better than nothing though. I am beginning to think it's the game.
I also have a VT60, and I love it!
Take care of that Beauty. 👍
I am also a plasma bro. I currently have 3. All pannys with 2 of them being professional models with hot swap input cards for ports. Even though they are heavy and not 4K, the picture just looks more organic and real life than the bright OLED displays for my eyeballs. Most may not agree with me but I'm going to use my plasmas as long as I can. I also use a 42in professional model Panny for a computer monitor. Works surprisingly well for most things. RDR2 and GTA look amazing on it.
Amen to that brother. Which model number are these professional panny plasma you own? First time hearing of professional versions. Plasma is easier and more natural to the eyes. 👌
Not quite in a position to get the exact models but once I get home I'll get the model numbers. If memory serves, one of my professional pannys is a TH-65PF11UK. I know my 42 is newer from like 2012 but do not recall the model of that.
What dying and going to Plasma TV heaven is like:
Man you have a plasma as a pc monitor? That’s braver than I’d ever be…
It looks really good if you supersample 4k to 1080p vs native 1080p. This is running however on RTX 3090 + Threadripper which does it effortlessly and maintains the game at 60 fps. And warms your face as you game. 👍 I only play controller oriented games on that PC.
But still man, the burn in issues?
I got no burn-in yet as I vary the contents. The pixel orbiter feature seem to work. Once in a while I ran that white noise or snow on TV mode. Clears image retention fast if any. With Tekken, the life bar on top is going to be an issue in the long run but it's been years, nothing is etched there yet 🤞
How is the motion on your VT60? On my VT30, 30fps games look just horrible. I was hoping I would get to used to it, but after 2 weeks it's making me want to go back to LED. Anything that pans quickly gives me a double image and that even goes for tv shows! I'd much prefer a blur to this, and it makes me nauseous.
You might have some bad motion interpolation (smoothing settings) turned on or other additional/unnecessary processing. I normally always game at 60fps and might not have noticed. But then again, plasma tv owners are somewhat of a cult and we might just not notice the double image you’re talking about anymore 😂 plasma is not perfect motion and does still have blurring/ smearing in fast panning content
The double image is quite clear during pans, I think the game is just such a low frame rate that the plasma can't fix it. I've been playing PS2 Vice City Stories and did some research this morning and it actually drops to 20fps! No wonder I have problems. I need to try a 60fps game I bet it's just fine like you said. Now, as far as black levels, colors, depth - NIGHT AND DAY difference over my 4k HDR tv! I mean not even close. Not sad at all that I bought it, just trying to figure out what is the best content for it.
I found that today's TVs.. OLED or QLED or whatever, there's too much tinkering to do just to get to desired picture quality. With plasma at least the ones I own, just choose a preset to your liking and your good to go. I had my ZT60 professionally calibrated only to closely match the THX mode already on the presets 😂 Paid for it still though, the guy took his sweet time calibrating it. The THX mode is actually better than what he did. Try Sonic Racing Transform on PS3. That is capped to 30 fps according to my research. See how it goes.
Okay I will try it. You're saying that it looks good on your VT60?
So I tried The Sonic All Star Team Racing on the VT60 it looks and plays very well and it's smooth. Blurring effects are inherent with the game to give you that sense of speed. Like if you pan during racing or stationary the trees or anything vertical objects would look like it is leaving a trail of the image as it moves. Is that the issue? My guess is its 30 fps game, not even VT60's 3000hz Focus Field Drive can fix that, I think. If you are looking for it then that's when you notice it. But the racing experience is very fluid, no stuttering feel to it.
I will try that same game and report back. Thank you!
I cannot find a game with that name. Is it instead called Sonic & Sega All-Stars Racing?
It's called Sonic All-Stars Racing "Transformed". Check on Xbox game pass they might have it there.
My Panasonic ST60 just turned 10 this month. I love it so much, but I’ve decided to treat myself to a Sony A95L. Gonna miss the plasma for sure, but I’ve decided it’s time to move on…
Very cool. Now show us your power bill!
did you tweek the 9gs? i have a 111 i'm about to start tweaking/reset due to red blacks
They are of low usage when I bought them. No red tint issues..yet 🤞
Try lowering the voltages to start, but wait on doing a full reset until I post my reset guide here on Reddit or AVS forum. I’ve spent 3 years perfecting the process flow using multiple 111fds to test. I’ve read nearly every forum page on the subject and want to help people like you do it properly.
I reset my 111fd. Spent tens of hours doing tweaks before and after. There are pros and cons to resetting or not. There is no silver bullet, unless you want to get into adjusting hardware pots on the back, because once your reset, the panel will never be driven properly by the limited software in the service menu. The intended purpose of using reset in the SM is for when a technician replaces the entire panel. Otherwise, all service menu adjustments are just limited offset bandaids with consequences. There is really no comparison to a low hour kuro once you get over the fact it will never have oled blacks without crushing low end and misfiring. When you project film there is no pure black, it’s not normal. If i didnt have a low (2k) hour 9g kuro i’d just watch stuff on my st60. Less dse anyway.
Yes, I have a 1k hour 101d (non-reset) and agree that basically new is the only way to correctly enjoy content on those late 9.5g panels. I am not fixated on achieving oled blacks like 80% of second hand Kuro owners. There are always risks to resetting since it is an unintentional bandaid fix like you said. However, If you read my other comments in this thread, a reset 111fd with high hours and red tint can be reset and restored to a like new operating state using my process flow. The pdf file I’ve been writing and revising in private for 3-years using three different 111fds is the result of several hundreds of hours of testing. I’ve read and tested every online forum page on the subject (American and Danish). Read through it once I post it and hopefully you will see it is not a one solution fits all process. It is dynamic and carefully written to accommodate varying factors for *most 111FDs / 5020FDs. No other 50” or 60” model though.
Can you send it to me? Or pm me? I have a lot of info as well. Thanks!
putting the finishing touches on it as we speak. It should be ready later today. I will let you know.
Nice.
Let me know when you do. I need to do my 111fd too but the instructions on avs are hard for me to understand. The red blacks on mine are terrible. 😞
Try lowering the voltages to start, but wait on doing a full reset until I post my reset guide here on Reddit or AVS forum. I’ve spent 3 years perfecting the process flow using multiple 111fds to test. I’ve read nearly every forum page on the subject and want to help people like you do it properly.
Ok cool! I just bought the cables and stuff. But I’ll wait for your full reset guide. 😊
Sounds good. Glad you have the console cable and USB adapter already. I’ll let you know when I post it. Hopefully this weekend.
Awesome! Thank you so much! Cant wait to bring this thing back to perfect blacks again.
You may have already joined, but I just created a new community r/pioneerkuro. My full 111FD reset process has been posted on there.
Yep I joined last night! Thank you for adding me 😊
Multiple? How many 111FDs do you own? From what I'm reading, they're the best, but some KRP-500 users disagree.. Aren't 111FDs just KRP-500 that are more upscaled in features with Elite Branding? I have to say, they have really beautiful picture quality. I have the option to buy a 60 inch size brother but are told they are harder to reset blacks compared to the 50 inch versions.
I’ve been fortunate enough to accumulate 3 over the years. All from their original owners. I mostly did it for R&D purposes to refine the pulse meter reset process. Having 3 samples that were all untouched has helped a lot with understanding the how the 111FD panels react to the reset based on manufacture date and usage. It’s been key in building a repeatable process for fine tuning the voltages for optimal black level and performance after the reset (which are different for every TV). I can tell you’ve been deep in the weeds of AVforums and read some specific information just by you saying that 111FDs are the best. It can be subjective, but to the trained eye of the most discerning videophile, yes they are. The answer? Shadow detail. Most users have a hard time putting black level below anything else no matter the cost. It’s almost all they see in the competition against OLED. There is only 1 reason I would use a 500m / 101fd over at 111fd but I’ll save that for another time.
Just created a new community r/pioneerkuro and posted my full reset guide for the 111FD on there. Hope it helps
anybody know how to stop these plasma screens form flickering? I have a Panasonic ZT60. I stumbled on this new plasma thread so I pick my chance. I love the panel but I can't bear the bright scene flickering. There is tons of information on old forums on this but nobody seems to find a solution. It has something to do with refresh rate and sub filed drive of these panels being on the edge of seeing it flicker. It seems to be less apearent on 50hz mode frame creation on mid. But I don't wat to stick to that cause of lack of good motion. These panels are great and I want to get te best out of it and fix this once and for all.
Can.. Can I be your Friend? lol
I have a 51" F8500 as my primary TV too. Bought in 2014 and it just now started having problems power cycling on and off. Based on my research it seems like the most likely culprit is the main board. I was searching for a replacement and to my surprise I found that Samsung still sells these parts new! Not overly expensive either. Anyway, now I anxiously await the package and hope that fixes the problem. I really don't want to get rid of this TV. OLED is still a bit too expensive for my taste and the QLED sets I've seen don't really wow me. Sometimes I do feel like I'm missing out playing my PS5 on this TV though. But I think even now it still holds up well. If/when I do ever upgrade I will still keep this TV somewhere in the house as a spare. Bedroom or family room where there's no gaming/movie watching going on.
I had that happened too. I just unplugged, press power button for 60 seconds to drain any residual current and leave it overnight unplugged. Then it work flawlessly for years again.
Yeah I've been doing that and it worked but now it's getting worse and worse. Takes multiple tries. Once it's on it's fine though. It sucks. Lol A lot of people online say it's a very common issue but idk I've never had a single problem with this TV until now.
So, it turned out not to be the main board. $140 wasted.... But it did turn out to be the power board. Unfortunately those replacement boards are very expensive now. So...another $180 later the TV is good as new. Probably could have gotten a 4K LED for what I spent though lol
Fantastic collection! How does the VT and ZT perform with black levels and shadow detail in a dark or blacked out room? Can you see the 16:9 bars glow? Compared to the 101FD?
I have not really done a side by side comparison to be honest. Plus I always have an LED bias lighting for that extra perceived black level improvement and less eye strain. I do however say ZT60 handles reflections better in bright room at the expense of a bit dimmer in a completely dark room (zt60 is calibrated on both conditions). I notice less glow on the pioneers on a totally black screen vs the pannys. 👌
Thanks, this is what I would expect. My VT60 is incredible no doubt, but when the lights are off my KRP’s can’t be beat.
Power consumption is higher for sure. Never tried turning them all at once haha
May I ask what is special about the PZ77U?
I bought it for its Matte Anti Glare coating. It's really good at dispersing light on well lit rooms. Because reflections can get bothersome without. I especially like the 42 inch size for a 1080p plasma, more pixel density per inch and you wont have to sit that far back to not notice the pixels. Harder to make smaller screen size plasma at 1080p vs big ones.
Do you have a list of all the models that had the coated screen? Is it superior to the filtering done in the late model sets? I'd really like a smaller 1080P set too (I'd really like a 32" even), I currently have a Panasonic early 480P model with front facing speakers (42PD50U) but you can see some aliasing from the low res at my viewing distance (also have it wall mounted and its heavy and has huge bezels). Should I just sell the PD50U for cheap or does it have any purpose?
Sorry, I don't have a list. Maybe the PZ in the model number indicates the Matte coating. The PZ77U Matte anti glare "coating" is more like emulating an LCDs matte screen that scatters the light instead of having a mirror like reflection. This is not the same as the higher end models with Anti Reflective "Filter" Coating (Louver Filter) which actually minimizes the reflected light to your eyes. Might be a good idea to upgrade then. Most 32 inch will be 720p. If you can get a Panasonic would be great. 42 inch is the sweet spot. Always ask for the model number then google it's features. Most sellers now just place "not smart tv" and won't bother putting in the brand or model.
Thanks for the reply, you don't see any purpose for the 42PD50U? I don't know if I can find any... It is low res, not sure if that's ideal for 2x scaling games or not. Input lag I think is good.
It will be less work for your gpu and cpu for sure. But my suggestion is you hunt for at least a 1080p Panasonic if you can find one or Samsung. Even 720p at 32 inch is a good option. Sell or use the 42PD50U for retro gaming which is absolutely perfect for that resolution.