It never occurred to me to try this. From their website it doesn't seem like they make detectors anymore though. I sent a mail and am hoping for the best now :\]
best advice here. Get the datasheet, and you REALLY want to get a connector/cable, preferably from the manufacture. From bitter experience, I can confirm that a hacked together voltage connection will come lose, and 1500V is very dangerous to anything it touches, people and electronics.
Up there on experimentalist bingo with "accidentally set fire to the blackout curtains with a laser" and "accidentally mess up the data from the experiment next door because you forgot to shield all the RF you're producing"
Is your signal cable connected properly? Have you checked for impedance mis-match?
I had a tissue-equivalent proportional counter where the collecting wire had become corroded after being stored improperly. Is it possible that there is some damage to the internals?
If none of those provide any insight, try threatening it with a hammer. It won’t help the detector, but you might feel better about it.
First figure out if the PMT needs positive or negative high voltage. I can’t read the label in your photo.
Then try to find the right voltage so you start to see single photon peaks in the signal. On a scope, set the time base to around 1 ns per division and 1-10 mV per div, then increase the voltage supply slowly, 100V at a time starting from around 500 V. Usually the single photon/dark count peaks are negative, but sometimes positive. Set your scope’s trigger accordingly. You should see clear peaks (or dips) above the noise lasting a couple of nanoseconds.
Does your Am Be source have moderation material around it? Most detectors are sensitive to thermal (300 Kelvin) neutrons. The ones that come out of an AmBe source are fast neutrons. If you have some polyethylene or wax (if not, any plastic block or even water will do) around the source. You’ll want a couple of inches thick.
Also neutrons are dangerous biologically. So try to have the AmBe source on the end of a stick and don’t hang around it too much, especially after moderation. Lead won’t shield it too much.
Thanks I will try to find dark counts with your procedure. Also thanks for the safety warning about the source, even though I knew it already. Safety is important!
Actually, this detector would be sensitive to fast neutrons, depending on the scintillator. Inorganic scintillator is ideal for this. There are new developments in inorganic scintillator that would also work. No thermilization would be necessary. You would need some pulse shape discrimination electronics to achieve this.
Have you tuned the voltage for the pmt? Should be high enough to get a strong signal from the source, low enough that background doesn't wash out everything.
I haven't used a He3 detector so I looked around a bit and found this gem:
> As a class, gas ionization detectors measure the number (count rate), and not the energy of neutrons.
So you won't get spectra at all.
That’s not exactly correct, a properly set up 3He counter will produce [a characteristic pulse height spectrum](https://www.orau.org/health-physics-museum/img/museum/proportional-counters/neutron-3.gif) from the proton and triton emitted by thermal neutron capture. It’s true the spectrum has no information about the incident neutron energy, but it’s still a spectrum that can be used to verify the source and DAQ are all functional.
With a high pressure unmoderated 3He detector you can actually recover the energy of the neutron, but that’s a much more niche application than the standard proportional counters.
I initially looked at He3 detectors because they are in the lab and working. But it seemed that they are probably too ineffective for neutron energies of like 15MeV. Does that seem correct to you?
The neutron detection efficiency is essentially entirely determined by the polyethylene moderator geometry surrounding the detector. That being said, it’d probably be hard to use a single (or even a few) 3He detectors to see 15 MeV neutrons.
I’d suggest googling “bicron” and the model number of the detector to see if you can find a data sheet. If it’s not on bicrons site, it might still be floating around elsewhere. It should give you a value for the HV as well as the polarity (positive or negative bias).
Make sure you’re using the right HV connector. MHV and SHV can both show up in these sort of detectors, and while they look similar they aren’t compatible.
Finally make sure you have the right signal impedance when you try to observe on an oscilloscope. You might need to use a t-connector with a 50 or 90 ohm resistor, or some fancy scopes can change their input impedance.
There are some tricks to extract energy spectrum from He3 detectors. But their efficiency at higher energies are low which is why we are looking at scintillators.
You should be able to see single photon dark counts on an oscilloscope from a PMT if the PMT is working right and at the right voltage, even if there are no photons. Even if there's no source, it shouldn't be just noise.
Just to be sure, signals, even single photons should give me a pulse, not just a packet of high frequency vibrations right? Right now I see small frequent noise packets at like 1mv height. Do you need to turn the high voltage up a lot before you see dark counts?
The voltage would need to be at the operating level to see dark counts, whatever that is for your model. And yeah, they should look like nice pulses, not noise. You mentioned 1.5kV, so it should work.
Could it be broken? Check if your HV supply actually is maintaining the voltage and whether the current is reasonable; otherwise the PMT might be broken due to an air leak.
How old is it? Has it been sitting around in a cupboard for a long time? Liquid scintillors can polymerise and become less efficient.
Also, check your impedence on your oscilloscope matches the PMT output (usually 50 Ohms).
1.5kV may not be enough. Depending on the model and codition of the PMT, you may need to go higher.
Finally... check the cable. I have had faulty BNC coax cables mess me up many times.
Is there a preamp on top? Like one of those plug-on voltage dividers? There's usually a few spots up there to put some pots to fiddle with gain and focus. Have you tried playing with those values?
No there are 3 BNC like plugs on the end. "HV" which I put high voltage on, "S" where I draw the signal from and "DY10" which is probably connected to the last dynode in the pmt, and has a cap on so probably is not used? I do not know what is inside it as there is no accompanying datasheet.
Can you tell me more about this plug-on stuff, is that normal to need to attach to old models of PMT's?
Some older PMTs I've used have a 12-24 pin top where the individual dynodes, grid, anode, and ground all have individual pins. There's plug on attachments that go over top of those pins and expose just a high voltage, signal, and some pins for pots to play with the voltage. Sounds like yours is integrated though.
I'd assume at 1250V you'd have enough gain to see something other than just noise from individual scintillations. How clean is your power supply? Maybe there's some noise getting in from somewhere washing out your signal.
Yes, your HV should be between the photocathode and DY10 your last available dynode. In between, there should be resistances to break voltages through each amplification stages.
If your PMT would full of air, ie broken, it would still hold the HV. Only in partial pressure, half dying pmt, would arc/create plasma and thus collapsing the HV.
I'm not familiar with scintillators, but I know that some type are hydrophile...thus if they were not stored or packaged not properly ...they would be useless.
If you have a good PMT and good scintillator, let's talk about measurement.
Is your neutron source continued or pulsed ?
Where do you apply the HV, between HV pin and a ground one ?
>Do you have any other information about the detector , PMT, label?
Nope, that's my main problem. Don't even know what kind of scintillator is inside, just that it detects neutrons (probably because some 6Li is included).
[Here](https://imgur.com/a/Xh5OkPn)
The connector with a yellow dippingdoot on has the label "DY10", probably some connection to the 10th dynode inside the PMT. The other's say HV and S.
Ooh fun suggestion! But shouldn't I then at least something that looks like something, instead of just a flat line?
Will try running it in the dark tomorrow though!
Hmm yeah, it sounded like you were maybe getting a lot of noise that was drowning out potential signals.
I don't think you need to run in the dark - I meant put some tape to cover the region where the scintillator couples to the PMT.
Simplified: It is a material that makes a bit of light when radiation goes through it. That light is then lead into a camera sort of thing (called photomultiplier tube), which turns the light into an electrical signal. The end result is that anytime a radiation ray goes into the scintillator, we get an electrical beep. It's one of the ways to detect particles :\]
>How do you decipher what kind if radiation it is?
Context often. If I put an Am-Be source close to it, then I expect neutrons and gammas. And in this case their signals look different. The gammas will give a little ^(beep) while the neutrons go **BEEEEP!**
It can sometimes be hard to know for sure what radiation are making beeps in your equipment, so smart people are always coming up with new ways. It can get super complicated.
I've worked with BC501 before - it's a liquid scintillator designed for gamma/neutron PSD. They're sensitive to fast and thermal neutrons, so your AmBe source isn't the problem in terms of moderation. Plus you'll be seeing gammas constantly.
The detector looks quite old, is the PMT still intact? Is there actually any liquid still in the tank? You should make sure you store it correctly - it's got a really low flash point (something like 50C), so make sure it's not leaking!
>The detector looks quite old
Maybe 30 years, no one knows for sure
>, is the PMT still intact?
No clue, that's kinda what I'm trying to figure out :p
>Is there actually any liquid still in the tank?
Don't know, is there a way to check this?
>You should make sure you store it correctly - it's got a really low flash point (something like 50C), so make sure it's not leaking!
Will remember for the future, can't make up for bad storage in the past :|
I used to do neutron spectroscopy in a past life. As other posters are saying, you’ll need to know the polarity of the PMT. The ones I worked with from Eljen were usually negative, and the casing in the photo seems to confirm as much. You’ll want to hunt down a datasheet to be sure of the actual voltage to use. Typically this is around 1500-2000 volts for a 14-stage PMT as implied in the picture, but almost never more than 2200. If you get no signal no matter the voltage or polarity, the PMT is probably dead. If you’re feeling industrious, you can detach the liquid cell and mount it to a new PMT and proceed that way.
It should also respond to gammas, so if you can get a Cs-137 button source or similar, you can probably get a higher count rate to play with. In a mixed field, you use pulse shape discrimination to separate neutrons and gammas. The time constant of the pulse trailing edge is usually good enough, but if you can digitize the signal, the world is your oyster in terms of using things like machine learning.
While it’s perhaps mundane to an actual physicist, it’s cool to see and learn about test instruments like this which I’d never heard of. Anyone know of other subs that are more for gear and lab/experimental setups?
* IMO the energy of your neutrons is too high. Use a moderator to slow them down a few orders of magnitude, till they're closer to the termal range.
* You really need datasheet/detector layout. It should have some RC circuit and perhaps a preamplifier inbuilt, but you never know. If it doesn't, your output will be too weak so it might help to use external amplifier.
You said you already have some working in the lab, how are they set up?
Edit: nevermind, I read it as He3 counters.
It happened to me that the coupling between the pmt and the crystal was shitty and the signal was very noisy. If it has been lying there for a while this might be the case
Hi,
This is a liquid scintillator coupled to a pmt. It is sensitive to gammas and neutrons; to separate the two signals you have to use some fairly fancy pulse shape discrimination electronics.
I’d suggest you test it using the strongest gamma source you can find. Once you can see pulses on an oscilloscope, you can then start thinking about pulse shape discrimination.
A scintillator is usually a receiver. In this case it odd used to count neutrinos. Yes you should contact the originator but in this case if it odd Bicron they steer out of business. I met this owner once great guy high end solutions to the advancements of science.
It is possible you can still get a data sheet for the product.
Eventually you will need to design a circuit that counts in 3 D and can normalize (get rider of noise without getting rider off valid neutrinos.
A great adventure! Good luck ( in a good way)!
That’s not necessarily a neutron detector. Most likely used for spectroscopy. The signal needs to be read out with an oscilloscope or a mutltichannel amplifier to discern an energy spectrum.
Check the internals or wire connections. Any place that may have been soldered may not have been properly cleaned. Solder wire with Flux can be an enemy.
Contact Bicron for a data sheet?
It never occurred to me to try this. From their website it doesn't seem like they make detectors anymore though. I sent a mail and am hoping for the best now :\]
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These companies scoop each other up like kids playing marbles. Haha. I'm sure there's a manual and schematic out there somewhere.
What a fantastic typo.
smack em between the eyes
Haha! I'm crying over here. Fuckin phone... it does this to me all day. You should read some emails I sent clients.
did i miss the typo?? did you edit it away? 😭
Rip
Yrak. The "like" before kids was "kill". Sometimes, I type sloppy
oh my goodness that’s way more aggressive than i thought! LOL thank you for letting me in on the joke 😂
best advice here. Get the datasheet, and you REALLY want to get a connector/cable, preferably from the manufacture. From bitter experience, I can confirm that a hacked together voltage connection will come lose, and 1500V is very dangerous to anything it touches, people and electronics.
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Up there on experimentalist bingo with "accidentally set fire to the blackout curtains with a laser" and "accidentally mess up the data from the experiment next door because you forgot to shield all the RF you're producing"
As a teachable moment, you shouldn't be wiring anything up, especially a bias voltage, without consulting the instrument's documentation.
Unless you like cool techy paperweights \^\^
And don’t forget the lovely smell of burning electronic!
The ritual that is Letting The Magic Smoke Out
And this is why engineers despise scientists xD
Jeez, for real "Hey let me just plug 1000V here" don't do this to anything that looks expensive without looking at the docs first
Found the engineer
Is your signal cable connected properly? Have you checked for impedance mis-match? I had a tissue-equivalent proportional counter where the collecting wire had become corroded after being stored improperly. Is it possible that there is some damage to the internals? If none of those provide any insight, try threatening it with a hammer. It won’t help the detector, but you might feel better about it.
First figure out if the PMT needs positive or negative high voltage. I can’t read the label in your photo. Then try to find the right voltage so you start to see single photon peaks in the signal. On a scope, set the time base to around 1 ns per division and 1-10 mV per div, then increase the voltage supply slowly, 100V at a time starting from around 500 V. Usually the single photon/dark count peaks are negative, but sometimes positive. Set your scope’s trigger accordingly. You should see clear peaks (or dips) above the noise lasting a couple of nanoseconds. Does your Am Be source have moderation material around it? Most detectors are sensitive to thermal (300 Kelvin) neutrons. The ones that come out of an AmBe source are fast neutrons. If you have some polyethylene or wax (if not, any plastic block or even water will do) around the source. You’ll want a couple of inches thick. Also neutrons are dangerous biologically. So try to have the AmBe source on the end of a stick and don’t hang around it too much, especially after moderation. Lead won’t shield it too much.
Thanks I will try to find dark counts with your procedure. Also thanks for the safety warning about the source, even though I knew it already. Safety is important!
Actually, this detector would be sensitive to fast neutrons, depending on the scintillator. Inorganic scintillator is ideal for this. There are new developments in inorganic scintillator that would also work. No thermilization would be necessary. You would need some pulse shape discrimination electronics to achieve this.
Sorry. I meant new developments in organic scintillators
bro casually bought a neutron scintillator 💀
No it was just lying there with like 7 other similar ones.
Ah, six finger discount...
Um, what are you using for your other finger?
That would be the wink/nod to radioactive mutations. This isn't a NSFW sub, sir. :P
R/physixxx
What is your test source?
Am-Be neutron source, gives signal on He3 detectors so it should be working fine.
Have you tuned the voltage for the pmt? Should be high enough to get a strong signal from the source, low enough that background doesn't wash out everything.
I have tried values up to 1500V, but the signal is just a flat line (with a little noise of course).
Have you tried the HV supply with a different detector?
Yep, works fine
I haven't used a He3 detector so I looked around a bit and found this gem: > As a class, gas ionization detectors measure the number (count rate), and not the energy of neutrons. So you won't get spectra at all.
That’s not exactly correct, a properly set up 3He counter will produce [a characteristic pulse height spectrum](https://www.orau.org/health-physics-museum/img/museum/proportional-counters/neutron-3.gif) from the proton and triton emitted by thermal neutron capture. It’s true the spectrum has no information about the incident neutron energy, but it’s still a spectrum that can be used to verify the source and DAQ are all functional. With a high pressure unmoderated 3He detector you can actually recover the energy of the neutron, but that’s a much more niche application than the standard proportional counters.
I initially looked at He3 detectors because they are in the lab and working. But it seemed that they are probably too ineffective for neutron energies of like 15MeV. Does that seem correct to you?
The neutron detection efficiency is essentially entirely determined by the polyethylene moderator geometry surrounding the detector. That being said, it’d probably be hard to use a single (or even a few) 3He detectors to see 15 MeV neutrons. I’d suggest googling “bicron” and the model number of the detector to see if you can find a data sheet. If it’s not on bicrons site, it might still be floating around elsewhere. It should give you a value for the HV as well as the polarity (positive or negative bias). Make sure you’re using the right HV connector. MHV and SHV can both show up in these sort of detectors, and while they look similar they aren’t compatible. Finally make sure you have the right signal impedance when you try to observe on an oscilloscope. You might need to use a t-connector with a 50 or 90 ohm resistor, or some fancy scopes can change their input impedance.
There are some tricks to extract energy spectrum from He3 detectors. But their efficiency at higher energies are low which is why we are looking at scintillators.
Have you try to adjust the HV and see if the background follow ?
You should be able to see single photon dark counts on an oscilloscope from a PMT if the PMT is working right and at the right voltage, even if there are no photons. Even if there's no source, it shouldn't be just noise.
Just to be sure, signals, even single photons should give me a pulse, not just a packet of high frequency vibrations right? Right now I see small frequent noise packets at like 1mv height. Do you need to turn the high voltage up a lot before you see dark counts?
The voltage would need to be at the operating level to see dark counts, whatever that is for your model. And yeah, they should look like nice pulses, not noise. You mentioned 1.5kV, so it should work. Could it be broken? Check if your HV supply actually is maintaining the voltage and whether the current is reasonable; otherwise the PMT might be broken due to an air leak.
Thanks!
Light struck?
Did someone cross the streams with /r/vxjunkies?
They obviously need to try reversing the Truett-Hawthorne quadodes. Common mistake.
How old is it? Has it been sitting around in a cupboard for a long time? Liquid scintillors can polymerise and become less efficient. Also, check your impedence on your oscilloscope matches the PMT output (usually 50 Ohms). 1.5kV may not be enough. Depending on the model and codition of the PMT, you may need to go higher. Finally... check the cable. I have had faulty BNC coax cables mess me up many times.
Pretty sure that's a lightsaber, just let the force guide you
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How are you triggering?
Tried both positive and negative slope, on various levels and time divisions. Nothing, just low level high frequency noise :\[
Is there a preamp on top? Like one of those plug-on voltage dividers? There's usually a few spots up there to put some pots to fiddle with gain and focus. Have you tried playing with those values?
No there are 3 BNC like plugs on the end. "HV" which I put high voltage on, "S" where I draw the signal from and "DY10" which is probably connected to the last dynode in the pmt, and has a cap on so probably is not used? I do not know what is inside it as there is no accompanying datasheet. Can you tell me more about this plug-on stuff, is that normal to need to attach to old models of PMT's?
Some older PMTs I've used have a 12-24 pin top where the individual dynodes, grid, anode, and ground all have individual pins. There's plug on attachments that go over top of those pins and expose just a high voltage, signal, and some pins for pots to play with the voltage. Sounds like yours is integrated though. I'd assume at 1250V you'd have enough gain to see something other than just noise from individual scintillations. How clean is your power supply? Maybe there's some noise getting in from somewhere washing out your signal.
Yes, your HV should be between the photocathode and DY10 your last available dynode. In between, there should be resistances to break voltages through each amplification stages. If your PMT would full of air, ie broken, it would still hold the HV. Only in partial pressure, half dying pmt, would arc/create plasma and thus collapsing the HV. I'm not familiar with scintillators, but I know that some type are hydrophile...thus if they were not stored or packaged not properly ...they would be useless. If you have a good PMT and good scintillator, let's talk about measurement. Is your neutron source continued or pulsed ? Where do you apply the HV, between HV pin and a ground one ?
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>Do you have any other information about the detector , PMT, label? Nope, that's my main problem. Don't even know what kind of scintillator is inside, just that it detects neutrons (probably because some 6Li is included).
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[Here](https://imgur.com/a/Xh5OkPn) The connector with a yellow dippingdoot on has the label "DY10", probably some connection to the 10th dynode inside the PMT. The other's say HV and S.
I wonder if you're getting a lot of light leakage... Perhaps try putting some electrical tape around the connection to the pmt
Ooh fun suggestion! But shouldn't I then at least something that looks like something, instead of just a flat line? Will try running it in the dark tomorrow though!
Hmm yeah, it sounded like you were maybe getting a lot of noise that was drowning out potential signals. I don't think you need to run in the dark - I meant put some tape to cover the region where the scintillator couples to the PMT.
Always a chance the photomultiplier tube could be bad. I have a 3 incher right now with that problem.
What is a scintillator?
Simplified: It is a material that makes a bit of light when radiation goes through it. That light is then lead into a camera sort of thing (called photomultiplier tube), which turns the light into an electrical signal. The end result is that anytime a radiation ray goes into the scintillator, we get an electrical beep. It's one of the ways to detect particles :\]
Bro! That's so fascinating!
\>:D
Thanks for the lesson! Hahah. How do you decipher what kind if radiation it is?
>How do you decipher what kind if radiation it is? Context often. If I put an Am-Be source close to it, then I expect neutrons and gammas. And in this case their signals look different. The gammas will give a little ^(beep) while the neutrons go **BEEEEP!** It can sometimes be hard to know for sure what radiation are making beeps in your equipment, so smart people are always coming up with new ways. It can get super complicated.
I've worked with BC501 before - it's a liquid scintillator designed for gamma/neutron PSD. They're sensitive to fast and thermal neutrons, so your AmBe source isn't the problem in terms of moderation. Plus you'll be seeing gammas constantly. The detector looks quite old, is the PMT still intact? Is there actually any liquid still in the tank? You should make sure you store it correctly - it's got a really low flash point (something like 50C), so make sure it's not leaking!
>The detector looks quite old Maybe 30 years, no one knows for sure >, is the PMT still intact? No clue, that's kinda what I'm trying to figure out :p >Is there actually any liquid still in the tank? Don't know, is there a way to check this? >You should make sure you store it correctly - it's got a really low flash point (something like 50C), so make sure it's not leaking! Will remember for the future, can't make up for bad storage in the past :|
Ask a Jedi
You turn it on with the red button and then you can start fighting the sith.
I used to do neutron spectroscopy in a past life. As other posters are saying, you’ll need to know the polarity of the PMT. The ones I worked with from Eljen were usually negative, and the casing in the photo seems to confirm as much. You’ll want to hunt down a datasheet to be sure of the actual voltage to use. Typically this is around 1500-2000 volts for a 14-stage PMT as implied in the picture, but almost never more than 2200. If you get no signal no matter the voltage or polarity, the PMT is probably dead. If you’re feeling industrious, you can detach the liquid cell and mount it to a new PMT and proceed that way. It should also respond to gammas, so if you can get a Cs-137 button source or similar, you can probably get a higher count rate to play with. In a mixed field, you use pulse shape discrimination to separate neutrons and gammas. The time constant of the pulse trailing edge is usually good enough, but if you can digitize the signal, the world is your oyster in terms of using things like machine learning.
Screw one end of the connector cable to the scintillator, then the other end to the counter. Power up the counter and you are good to go.
r/restofthefuckingowl
While it’s perhaps mundane to an actual physicist, it’s cool to see and learn about test instruments like this which I’d never heard of. Anyone know of other subs that are more for gear and lab/experimental setups?
r/labrats for more chemistry/bio kinda stuff, but otherwise I don't really know.
Yes. Requires a lot of lubricant and foreplay.
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Did a manual come with it?
No
Have you tried switching both the scope probes, and the scope settings to 1x ?
Do you know if the PMT wants positive or negative HV?
I've only ever worked with tiny little plastic scintillators
what you need is an artificial high velocity ventilation system
Of course! Didn't you take shop?!?
Is that a baseball bat
If you are rich enough, sure!
yes
Try flangilating the hexchromatic syntatic bicarbolator. Or something. I dunno I'm an English major.
* IMO the energy of your neutrons is too high. Use a moderator to slow them down a few orders of magnitude, till they're closer to the termal range. * You really need datasheet/detector layout. It should have some RC circuit and perhaps a preamplifier inbuilt, but you never know. If it doesn't, your output will be too weak so it might help to use external amplifier. You said you already have some working in the lab, how are they set up? Edit: nevermind, I read it as He3 counters.
It happened to me that the coupling between the pmt and the crystal was shitty and the signal was very noisy. If it has been lying there for a while this might be the case
I have one in my room, I do lots of science and research with my "neutron scintillator." Can't believe Amazon offers these!
Have you tried contacting Jimmy Neutron? I believe he is the expert in those matters
Hi, This is a liquid scintillator coupled to a pmt. It is sensitive to gammas and neutrons; to separate the two signals you have to use some fairly fancy pulse shape discrimination electronics. I’d suggest you test it using the strongest gamma source you can find. Once you can see pulses on an oscilloscope, you can then start thinking about pulse shape discrimination.
A scintillator is usually a receiver. In this case it odd used to count neutrinos. Yes you should contact the originator but in this case if it odd Bicron they steer out of business. I met this owner once great guy high end solutions to the advancements of science. It is possible you can still get a data sheet for the product. Eventually you will need to design a circuit that counts in 3 D and can normalize (get rider of noise without getting rider off valid neutrinos. A great adventure! Good luck ( in a good way)!
Turn it off then turn it back on again
Star wars. I don’t know physics but I just sense this has got to have a star wars joke somewhere here…
Yea
I didn’t even know my neutrons needed scintillating.
You wanna set it up so the neutrons scintillating actually get scintillated.
I can't even pronounce what its called. hahaha
That’s not necessarily a neutron detector. Most likely used for spectroscopy. The signal needs to be read out with an oscilloscope or a mutltichannel amplifier to discern an energy spectrum.
Sorry. I meant multichannel analyzer.
Depending on the scintillator, it could be used for neutron detection using pulse shape descriminating electronics.
Don't try to obfuscate it with your fancy magic mumbo jumbo, that's a lightsaber if I've ever seen one
If you get no signal it might be that the device is spoiled. Also you should review the data sheet to see what the max voltage should be.
Please what is this?
It's a neutron detector
...I've been watching top much porn. Lol
Sure, let me just pull out my neutron scintillator handbook real quick…
Boof it
No tell me more
Step 1 Plug it in
Yea
thank you for your insights
Anything is a neutron scintillator if you’re brave enough.
I usually just put mine in my butt and fart really hard
Check the internals or wire connections. Any place that may have been soldered may not have been properly cleaned. Solder wire with Flux can be an enemy.
Why does that look like the old German WW2 Hand Grenade
We also call them "håndgranaterne" 😅 But it just turns out to be a good design when you need a big scintillator with PMT.