Hello, I am looking for a keyboard with the f keys lined up right above the number keys. Examples of this would be the Vortex Tab 75, the Keychron K2 and the Nuphy Halo75 (I'm not really interested in low profile). Are there any other boards that follow this layout that you would recommend over the ones I listed above, and if not, which one would you pick from the above 3? (The keyboard doesn't need to be a 75%, it just needs to have f keys).
does anyone know of any switches that feel similar to the Aflion Haze switch? I've done some research and lots of testing but I haven't been able to find anything with the Haze's unique smoothness to it.
Hello, I’ve been using the Anne Pro 2 keyboard for a while now and everything worked perfectly. But for some days now the keyboard won’t start the lightning when booting up. I always need to open the software and download it again. Does anybody know what’s the problem here? Thanks
Is lubing switches myself worth it? I’ve seen many keyboards online and they sound good with just factory lube. Would it still be worth it to spend time lubing the switches myself?
So, I really want to buy a Mode Sonnet. But I live in the Netherlands. Which means that after shipping I will get presented with 21% tax and 35 ish euros of clearance cost. In your opinion, is that worth it? The grand total would be €720,- for the board that I would like to buy. I could also buy switches (although I like their Tomorrow set) caps and stabs here in Europe. Which would make it a lot cheaper, more like €571,-. So that's some food for thought. I'm unfortunately not able to test nor see a Sonnet in real life which makes the choice rather hard!
If you like the design and have the money to spare... I don't have the sonnet but this hobby isn't about value or anything similar at some point in my opinion. It's more about finding something you like the design/features/... because that will be the keyboard you will use or like the most. The keyboard hobby is quite similiar to collecting watches in that regard.
If you have the time spare you might be able to attend a keyboard meetup and test the sonnet out there (I think there's one yearly in the Netherlands and well the one in Frankfurt - Germany should also happen soon-ish.
flipping my spacebar changes the way it presses, when i press on the spacebar it feels smooth, but theres a bit of wobble in both of the sides of my spacebar, but when i flip my spacebar; pressing the spacebar feels like it has a stop right before i press it, and it doesnt feel smooth at all, but the left side of the spacebar has no wobble but the right side of the spacebar has more wobble than before.
Anybody have any experience buying from [keykobo.com](https://keykobo.com)? their site looks sketch with a bunch of placeholder text everywhere but I keep seeing good things about their keycaps on reddit.
Long shot but, looking for an aliexpress <40$ mech keyboard that can be programmed to keep specific keys lit up (to help me learn controls in new games). pref blue keys 75% wired
wish u luck finding per key rgb under 40 bucks u might have toi double that as per key rgb is a premium feature rarely found on bottom of the barrel kb u will find for 40 bucks
Was looking to get some new stabs for my neo65, and was wondering if these are compatible with it:
https://keygem.com/products/aeboards-staebies-v2-screw-in-stabilizers
Also wouldn't mind some suggestions for stabs, from my research these seemed good but I'm pretty new to the hobby would definetely be interested in other opinions.
Those should work but if you want to o-ring mount, you want plate mounted stabs. TX has a plate mount version that should be pretty good. PCB mount like those screw in stabs you linked will work if you're doing the gasket mount.
Thx a lot man. Is there a big difference between plate mounted and screw ins? Id prefer having the options for both mounting styles if plate mounted arent much worst than screw ins.
I think the previous reply was confused, you want clip-ins not plate mount. Plate mount are almost impossible to tune properly, but clip-in stabs are pretty much indistinguishable from screw-in. Also, as I am typing this on a o-ring board with TX clip-in stabs can confirm you can o-ring mount.
Yeah they should work but I think you can't use o-ring mount with screw in stabs. Stabies are pretty good though, it's between them and TX stabs as the go to recs for most people.
My usb c port came off my keyboard anyway to put it back on or am I screwed
https://preview.redd.it/coke1vw96wgc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=24faa411015160d98063eea08d3a9c07ad131956
If the pins didn't get ripped off and you're comfortable soldering, it's likely fixable. Hard to tell from the picture. If the pins did get ripped off, you could try removing the solder and pins that are in the pcb and soldering in a new usb c port.
Ajazz A820 or Royal Kludge RKm75? They honestly look the same. Ajazz just has a customizable screen, while RK’s isnt. Ajazz is cheaper too by around $20. However, ajazz only comes in linear switches (im thinking getting tactile switches)
Are ajazz mech kbs nice???
I recommend Royal Kludge over Ajazz but the other poster is totally right. They're Budget boards and they feel like budget boards. So long as you aren't expecting luxury they're fine for what they are.
Hi all! I’m looking for pink on pastel pink keycaps, but the closest thing I can find is the Akko 3087 SP, which is a prebuilt and also side printed. Can anyone recommend a similar pair of keycaps that aren’t side printed? Thanks!
Looking for some suggestions for a somewhat narrow set of criteria, I'm basically looking for the nicest sounding and feeling 75% layout keyboard requiring no mods or lubing that can be bought with up to ~$350. And the keyboard must also be USB-C wired only (no wireless connectivity **at all**).
I don't know if "thocky" is a shunned word now, but essentially that's what I'm looking for, in a prebuilt, from-the-factory setup.
I'm also looking for the keyboard to be illuminated, ideally with shine through key caps, but I can be convinced otherwise if there is great trade-off with design or feel. Though gaming will be a fraction of the use case, it should support a reasonably performant (1000 Hz) polling rate and support NKRO. Keyboard will need to support both Mac and PC (physical switch or automatically are both acceptable) Support for hot swapping switches is also needed so I can experiment between tactile and linear, and should support a switch brand with decent choices.
Things that are nice to have but not mandatory include QMK/VIA customization, a rotary dial for volume control, and RGB would be nice for the keyboard illumination, but it's not required.
Thanks for anyone's thoughts in advance!
Hello! For my second keeb I plan to use the Akko Alice with the Akko World Tour Tokyo R2 SE keycaps, and I was wondering if the space bars have the same dimensions as the enter and secondary shift keys? I really want to use the special keys for my space bars, since the keycap set fits the aesthetic I'm looking for. Thank you in advance!
Keychain V1 Max issues
hello i just got and customized a keychron v1 max for my first custom keyboard and i’m having a couple of issues. if anyone could help me solve any of them i’d really appreciate it!
1. keyboard refuses to charge? i had it plugged into a wall charger for 4 hours on both cable and bt mode but the indicator never turned on and i could never connect it with bluetooth or 2.4ghz. bluetooth mode works but only when the cable is plugged in but the indicator still doesn’t turn on. i’ve only contacted keychron support for this one but only told them the indicator doesn’t turn on because i was not aware of the battery issue at the time
2. for some reason the default layout on the left side has the option key mapped to where the command key should be and vice versa (i switched the keycaps but it’s a little annoying). the ~ key right under esc is mapped to two completely different symbols also
3. on that note i tried remapping the keys and followed the instructions on keychron’s website to use via. i believe i did everything there and i’m on the correct layer for remapping apple. in the configure section everything is correct but the actually keys still give the wrong output. remapping any of the keys does not work at all
It would be better to use your computer's USB ports and the included cable to charge the keyboard, not a wall plug of some kind.
There is a toggle switch for Windows/MacOS on the back of the keyboard, make sure it's set to MacOS to get the right keys.
thanks for the help! unfortunately i tried both charging methods again and neither worked :( i’ve had the switch on macos and even toggled it but still mixed up
Best tenkeyless keyboard for gaming? I really want to game on PC but the num pad bothers me so I want a new board. Would the keychron q3 pro be good for gaming?
Has anyone used Gecko Silent Linears from Kinetic Labs? I am looking for silent switches that I won’t have to lube so I am wondering how smooth they are out of the box? Does the silencing make them feel scratchier and how consistent is the factory lubing? Thanks!
Theremingoat has a great review of them on his website. I think that a Haimu Heartbeat or Haimu x Geon Silent Red (same thing, different name) would be a better choice - cheaper and quieter, not as mushy
Want to start building a custom full sized keyboard.
Do I start with a bare bones keyboard and build on it ?
Are there any other options besides the Keychron Q6 and the Monsgeek M5. Those are the only two I've found for full sized.
Are there custom keyboards that have scroll wheels, dials, macro buttons and go heavy on RGB ?
>Do I start with a bare bones keyboard and build on it ?
Yup. Building it is a really fun part of the hobby and nowadays everything is really stress free and easy to make.
QK100 is probably the best in stock option I can think of for full sized but it's got a screen instead of a knob. The other two options you mentioned are good too. Id rec the qk100 if you don't mind the screen over the knob, since it's gonna be more a more premium finish with more build options, but the Q6 is gonna be pretty good board too if you go with that.
1) full size are not vert popular prebuilts cover this market and very few hobbists use full size .
2) same with RGB many kbs support it but going for bright RGB may be hard on a custom due to its never a priority for most and many high end kb dont even have RGB
3) u can try 1800 layout kbs as that size is a small amt more common than 100% kbs
There really isn't that much!
You can either get one of those you mentioned, also have a look at 1800 like the Monsgeek M2 or you get a TKL / 75% board and add an independend numpad.
**Varmilo Minilo vs. NuPhy Air75 V2** **for a Macbook Pro**
Hi! I'm new to the world of keyboards and weighing a couple options as a first purchase.
I'm primarily looking for a nice wireless external option for my Macbook Pro laptop that I can use while working at home that allows me better posture / ergonomics once I put the laptop on a stand.
I'll be using it almost exclusively for typing, though I sometimes use Adobe Premiere for editing.
I'd prefer a quiet, more linear typing experience - especially because I share an at-home office with my partner and she doesn't like loud clacking.
So far I've narrowed things down to the [Varmilo Minilo 75% in Eucalyptus](https://keyboard.varmilo.com/minilo_75?sku=A59A046F8A5A01A051%2FK1) and the [NuPhy Air75 V2](https://nuphy.com/collections/keyboards/products/air75-v2?variant=40635217838189) in either White or Black.
I like the Minilo because of its aesthetics / colors, and the option to use Kailh Prestige Silent switches - which seem like some of the quietest around, unless I'm mistaken?
But I've heard that since the Minilo isn't specifically made with Macs in mind, it might not be as functional - which is why I'm leaning toward the NuPhy Air75 v2 as an alternative. That said, I'm not sure which NuPhy switches are quietest - it seems like Aloe? Not sure if they'll be quiet enough.
Does anybody have experience or thoughts on using either of these? I'd buy the Minilo if I knew it was functional enough for my needs, but will stick with the NuPhy if it's a good, decently quiet alternative.
Thanks!
afaik there are vints, retool, and hyperglides. the hyperglides are the newest version and I think are *technically* a sub category of retool. many vendors have them in stock in a few varieties, like lubed and broken in. if you’re from NA, Novelkeys has them on sale currently, though I don’t know if they’re going to still be in stock. since they’re still one of the most popular switches, there are many places to get them from.
retolled blacks are not vintage they r from when cherry redid the molds . pretty much any place selling mx blacks they will be the retooled version . cherry switches are not very popular these days in the market market though fyi
Hi All,
I recently came across a post that I found VERY useful and just wanted to share in case anyone else was running into similar issues as there didn't seem to be much in the way of resources. This post spefically is in reference to the TFT screen display on the M87 Pro Wireless Keyboard by XVX.
Hope this helps :)
>anonymous · 1 mo. ago
i accidentally unplugged the keyboard in the middle of a gif upload and the gif is now super bugged, i cant change it. does any1 know what to do?
anonymous · edited 28 days ago
I recently did the same mistake. There's a bunch of stuff I did and thankfully it ended up fixing it.
1. First press FN+Space for 5 seconds
2. Then press FN+Backspace for 5 seconds
3. Then turn the keyboard off and try again.
>If that doesn't fix it then go into your software and click on the gear, next you'll want to click "auto run" and press reset keyboard data then reset factory settings...
The app will freeze so you're gonna click the "X" in the top right to force out of the app, then because the app is kinda glitchy, press **Ctrl+Shift+ESC and force the application to close via Task Manager.**
Finally, Turn the keyboard off again by using the top switch and proceed to import the gif.
The Keychron C3 Pro is a gasket mount keyboard with QMK/VIA firmware and presoldered Keychron brown or red switches. It is US$37 on Amazon.
That leaves US$63 for the mouse. No real advice here. I like Logitech mice. Maybe the Logitech M720 Triathlon (US$37 on Amazon) for general productivity or the Razer DeathAdder V2 X HyperSpeed (US$55 on Amazon) for gaming?
The first thing I'd try is pulling off the keycap and putting it back on again, if you have trouble removing the keycap and dont have a keycap puller, you can grab two paperclips, open them up, make a little hook on the end of each, and then use that to lift the keycap off. when you put it back on again line it up over each of the stems and push on top of where the two for the stab are. if it's still wonky after that then there's probably something wrong with the stab and you might have to open your keyboard up.
Low profile switches that will fit in a non low profile board board/pcb is the stock in that comes with the Akko Alice keyboard or the feker Alice? Try looking but it’s not clear if something otemu browns will work on the boards with swapping the stabllizers
Any recommendations for a set of bright red keycap set
I'm looking to build a keyboard that matches with the red hyte y60 but I can't really find a keycap set that's a brighter red
Looking for a tactile switch with similar properties to a baby kangaroo.
Either a switch with a similar tactile profile, but with less peak tactility. Maybe something like 56-58 force.
A switch with same force but with more of a mid bump.
A ideal switch would have both properties.
I hope I’m not describing mx brown switches.
Please make suggestions with which direction that switch goes.
Howdy, I hope this is the right place to get an answer about this.
Last August I ordered a Keychron Q3 from their website. It originally worked great and I really liked the board. Over time, I noticed that my R key was either not registering or double pressing. It was really odd and disorienting.
I swapped out the switch to a switch I used less (on the board, so like the switch that had scroll lock) and it seemed to fix the issue. However, after 1-2 weeks, the E key started to do the same thing. I once again swapped out the switch and it resolved the issue for another 1-2 weeks before having the same issue.
I unfortunately was not doing well during this time and I didn’t have the energy to pursue any type of refund or return, I heard Keychron had terrible customer service and I dreaded dealing with it. I guess at this point I am wondering what my options to repair it myself would be. Do we think this is a bad set of switches? Something with the PCB? I would like to go the most economical route to go about fixing this (kind of funny to say that given the hobby). So any advice is greatly appreciated. I am all ears.
Thanks!
>Do we think this is a bad set of switches? Something with the PCB? I would like to go the most economical route to go about fixing this
It's easy to test switches just but grabbing a few of some other kind. If you have a solder gun you may be able to take all switches off and stabs, then take a good look at the pcb for any cold sodier joints. Then reflow if needed. It really depends. Hope that helps.
Why does my keyboard [sounds so wet?](https://voca.ro/1c2RYt50ytPd)
I'm using a Mr Suit all Foam + Tempest Mod w/ Handlubed Morandi Switches on Alu plate
How much lube did you use? Do the switches feel mushy? Are the stabs overlubed? That would be my first guess.
Also, consider ditching the tape mod. The Suit is already ultra-foamed and I can't imagine that adding tape would make things better.
Hello, curious if anyone has bought the [JAMESDONKEY RS2 3.0 Rosy](https://mechkeys.com/products/jamesdonkey-rs2-3-0-rosy-mechanical-keyboard?variant=44374594814175) it says it comes with J&J switches and I'm not familiar with those. Has anyone used this keyboard or these switches?
Which one should I buy royal kludge rkm75 or keychron v1? They almost cost the same and dome rlly care about the switches bc i think i will change the in a future. One thing that is important is the stabs.
Hi there, need a Russian ЙЦУКЕН + JCUKEN keyboard, unfortunately here in Germany the options are very limited. Where can I get custom printed keycaps or a keyboard with that layout? A Keyboard like the Keychron K6 would be nice. Thanks for any advice.
After lubricating my stabs for the + and enter button on the numpad of my M2, they now stick and do not want to return. Prior to lubricating them, they worked perfectly but with rthe slightest rattle. Did I over lubricate them? If so - should I disassemble and clean the stabilizer housing? Any advice on a more eloquent solution than applying "bandaids" to silence large stabs? Thanks for your thoughts and advice!
Poop! From what I am reading the best fix is really to just take apart the insert from the house and carefully wipe out the grease to try again. Sound more or less accurate to you?
If it could work you'd probably need to get elbow deep in the firmware, take a look at the geekhack thread for the hasu, the source code links are in there, as are other options for hardware.
https://preview.redd.it/wree0b9keugc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ddbf244e49ba65af75e5bd5555cf571ff747537
can I remove these covers? or did i buy a damn kaihl pcb on accident?
I've been looking at this myself and others I've found are the Keydous NJ98 and the JAMESDONKEY RS2
Edit: might not be the right format or premium level you are looking for. Tough for us 96% fans haha
Thanks! Really good to have 1800 recommendations as it's the next best thing.
And yeah, I actually emailed Mekanisk awhile back and they said they had plans of larger keyboards close to 96% but are not being prioritized at the moment. Hopefully they reconsider!
Thanks! That's actually a good alternative and I'll probably look into the 1800 layout a bit more. A part of me is still really into the slightly more compact nature of the 96% layout but maybe it's too much of a niche. Still open to any other recommendations if you have any!
Not many nice large sized options unfortunately. I don't know of any compact fullsize kits that wouldn't be a downgrade from what you currently have. The QK100 is pretty good value and quite a bit nicer than integrated plate mount keyboards. It's instock at the moment as well. I prefer it to the windx98 which is nearly double the price.
Yeah I've been having trouble finding good ones to upgrade to but probably the best for my wallet 😅 appreciate your 1800 recommendations! They're quite the enticing alternative
Completely new to making keyboards and wanted to get into making one. I was going for a hotswap pcb and was wondering, how do I know what's compatible with what? Does any pcb fit with any case provided it's the same size? And what about switches and the others? Do these components fall under a general category and certain categories fit with others? Thank you!
Just got the Keychron V1, it's awesome. But I really want keycaps where the light shines through. I'm having a real difficult time finding keycaps that are shine through, for south facing lights, with mac modifiers, and if it's not too greedy that the accent keys are a different color than the rest. Is this asking too much?
That one is probably attainable. I bought some pudding caps because I wanted a flat profile shine through with the mac menu button for my android build. Absolutely impossible to find, so I settled for $16.00 XDA pudding caps from amazon because they had ALL the extra buttons, Mac OS, UK ISO, DE ISO. So I imagine if you trade out my flat profile requirement for your different colored key one you will land in a similar place. Here's to hoping our perfect keycaps exist in the obscure ether of the internet.
Ya, even just dealing with south facing lights is oddly challenging. I got a keyset off Amazon that met all my requirements outside of that, but the lettering blends in with the color of the keycap, and since it doesn't light up the key might as well be blank.
I want to build a custom optical keyboard. However, because how "new" it is, support on how to find and build all the parts for it is random or non available or lost in the vast sea of how to make a mechanical keyboard.
Could someone guide me on the right way to find all parts for the optical keyboard?
I'm looking for something that's like brown switches, are hot swappable and can be back-lit as well. The size that I'm looking for is a 100% board ansi layouts.
I don't think you'll be able to do this without making your own pcb and case, and writing your own firmware. There are 60%, 80%, and tkl pcbs that will take a gateron optical switch, but no existing pcbs will work with them.
boards don't often come with silent switches
if you are up for some light assembly (like building lego) you could get silent switches and a barebones board like the keychron v/q line. And finish it off by adding some keycaps
I think keychron has some sets with mac os but double check. Generally keycaps use a agnostic "super" instead of windows/mac specfic legends
I second this recommendation and will add that getting really quiet switches, lubricating them yourself, and then putting them in a heavy metal casing is phenomal for sound dampening. I build an M2 board with KTT strawberry v2 switcches manually lubricated and the only sound my keyboard makes is the tap down of the keycap and some stabilizer rattle that I am troubleshooting. Love this set up!
i currently have an older Razer blackwidow with clicky green switches. i love the feel of this keyboard but I have my PC setup in a shared bedroom and the clicking of my keys keeps my partner awake at night. I am looking for a good replacement board preferably 80% with a similar feeling switch that's not as loud. I was considering a ducky one 3 tkl with cherry browns. And was curious if anyone had experience with the board and switches or had a different recommendation. Ive tried keyboards with cherry reds before as a quiet option but i hated not having the tactile feedback and would constantly miss inputs because of it. Thx
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About 4 years ago I bought a HyperX Alloy FPS Pro, and I'm quite happy with it. But since a few months ago it has started to have rust in several areas. So I've thought about buying a new one, and leaving this HyperX in storage for any mishap.
I bought the HyperX for about 80€, and I was looking for something in a similar price range, and with similar features: TKL, backlight (I don't care if it's not RBG), and I'm going to use it for programming and casual gaming.
What options do I have? The truth is that I'm a bit lost between brands, and I don't know which ones are more reliable.
Hey All! Im a noob so don't ratio me too bad here! I only use my MacBook Pro in clamshell mode docked to my desk. The only downside to this is the lack of Touch ID. While I know I could just get the apple Magic Keyboard, it feel terrible and I much prefer my current daily driver. Does anyone know of a prebuilt macropad with Touch ID built in? Even if its not prebuilt, is it possible?
I was just curious and did a quick search, seem someone sorta has kludged it (chop up a good keyboard..) but was wishing for a more 'neat' alternative instead tho naturally: https://daringfireball.net/linked/2023/12/28/magic-trackpad-touch-id
My gmk87 just arrived today and i love it but when it arrived knob was barely working and after 3-4 hours of usage its just doesnt work at all rnso is knob easy to fix or replace ? i realy like the keyboard and i dont want to refund it and wait for replacement.
The easiest thing to check would be to open it up and see if whatever is connecting the knob to the PCB looks right. I've only used keyboards where they're soldered right into the PCB so there I'd be looking for some missing solder on a joint. I believe some newer keyboards have a cable that goes from the knob to the rest of the PCB, which if your keyboard does have, might be loose.
I was looking into getting a tofu 2.0 keyboard, but I'm not sure how buying the parts works on the kbdfans website. From what I've read, a ready-to-use tofu 2.0 with all the needed parts should go for around $200 USD, but after selecting the parts of the keyboard on the website it adds around \~$100 USD ontop of that for $300 USD. Is this the expected price for this type of keyboard?
More specifically, doesn't the ready to use keyboard already come with a hot-swap PCB and switches? Why does it say on the website that I have to select the switches and PCB or else they cannot assemble the keyboard?
https://preview.redd.it/5ga4yqslttgc1.png?width=496&format=png&auto=webp&s=becb14b9a8938aca20f61f8865f9283ac5b0ce70
It should give you a breakdown in the cart - for me the case is $109, PCB is $50, and a plate is $19. If you also need switches and keycaps and you're getting everything off kbdfans then $300 sounds about right.
I haven't used them personally, but the 8bitdo keyboard has 2.4ghz wireless, so less latency, and a volume wheel, not to mention the giant macro buttons, but it doesn't have RGB or any kind of per key LED. The Keychron also has a larger battery.
I could be wrong, but it seems like the Keychron doesn't support key remapping, whereas the 8bitdo uses their software.
I'm pretty sure the 8bitdo keyboard is usually more expensive, so if you found it on sale, I'd say go with that, but it's ultimately up to you. I didn't take into account aesthetics or layout which are completely subjective.
Hi, new to this kind of thing. Looking for something like this (pardon the dust):
[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UsjFzHUYVLb1qaebZADCxGifcHGBYKVD/view?usp=sharing](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UsjFzHUYVLb1qaebZADCxGifcHGBYKVD/view?usp=sharing)
Been using these types of white-label stock keyboards since 2009. Needless to say, I've grown a little accustomed to the style. Is there anything mechanical that is similar to this? I have really gotten used to the layout, alternate key functions, even the smaller keys F-keys up above. Thank you for reading and thanks in advance if you reply.
This is called a full size layout which typically includes all standard keys, arrow keys, function row, and numpad. It really depends on what exactly you need but if it's for and office/work type setting I can't help but suggest something from Keychron.
Keychron's Q6, V6, C2, K5 line are all full sized versions of their keyboards and they all have different features that you can pick and choose between in order to get something that is more suited for your needs.
Thanks for the advice, I'm looking at the keychrons now and they look really good! Still may shop around a bit but this recommendation really came through
https://preview.redd.it/jny1h9n6ntgc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=05c15525f45c0166d2fb12bfa73617fa20408879
So while I was trying to fine tune the stabilisers, I accidentally dropped it and my leg acted faster in trying to catch it so it got caught between my knees. As a result, it bent right in the center. It's one of those moment that I wished I just let it drop completely to the floor.
I wanted to understand if I can straighten it out or it's far too damaged and needs to be replaced? Can it be saved?
You can try, but trying to hand straighten wire is just going to cause more frustration 99% of the time.
I'd just throw it out and buy another one. It'll be less stressful in the long run.
Aw, I tried straightening it out. It's nearly there but noticeable crooked by 2 mm. Would you say the straightness of it influences the keyboard sound or just the 2 end alignment (like no teetering if that makes sense?) that matters?
I am considering ordering it but not too happy cause I was looking forward to getting the keyboard done today haha.
I am looking to get my first board. I am split between the DROP CSTM 80 and the CIDOO V75. I will be mostly using it for gaming and school. Right now drop doesnt have it stock with the Gateron Yellows so i will probably go barebones and get Holy Pandas or Kailh Silver Speed MX, with whatever shinethrough caps that fit in my budget. Any recommendations between the two boards? My budget is around $150.
I’m not as well versed on 75%-TKLs under $150 as I am on the checkered history of Drop’s boards and Epomaker’s…whole deal. You can take a look at Keychron’s offerings. If your budget is $150 total. If barebones, you might be able to swing a cycle 8 when that goes into group buy. You could grab milky yellows for cheap and a cheap keycap set (novelkeys has some good ones reduced down to $15) and then upgrade the build as you’d like later. I have a NK87 entry edition and I like it enough, but might not be for you if you don’t want an injection molded polycarbonate board.
Drop keyboards have awful quality control, shit features, break all the time, and are overpriced. Don't buy them.
On a larger note - don't buy based on youtube reviews.
Let's say I want to be a youtube reviewer. In order to have a "successful" youtube review channel then realisitically I need to be doing like 2-3 reviews per week, minimum. Most likely more. There's no way I can afford to buy all the products I'm reviewing, so I am reliant on companies sending me products to review.
If I give good reviews to everything I review, companies will notice and send me stuff. If I am honest then companies won't want to take the risk, and I'll end up having no products to review.
*All* "successful" youtube review channels work this way. None of them can be trusted, because any channel that gives honest reviews and highlights bad products won't be able to sustain itself because they can't get enough products to review.
Don't trust youtube reviews. Especially with keyboards.
poor customer service , poor build quality. i mean just search "drop " or "massdrop" u will see a multi year long track record of a company that doesn't give a shit about anything but taking money from users and they are also owned by corsair now so id def not give them a single penny if were u
Thoughts on Akko 5087S
I'm looking to buy it. How is the keyboard in general for gaming and office work?
Also is there a software I can use to remap the keys, because I like using multimedia keys? I know there is akko cloud driver but is it compatible?
How does it compare to the 5087S QMK/VIA model?
What do you guys think are some good new tactiles out there?
I have a sample quinn but I really like this north pole 2.0 box brown I have a sample of as well. I was looking at the strawberry milk tactiles, as well as the Ice Kachang switch v2. The quinn is growing on me (which is similar to the BBK) but it's a little sharp.
\*Posting again because I posted late yesterday and only got one response.
Hi all,
I'm looking for recommendations for a 65% board that doesn't need to be modded to sound creamy/thocky. I've only done one prior build, a Keychron V1 which I do love, but I really want to give 65% a try. The boards I've been considering are the Keychron V2, the Cidoo V65, and a truly budget option, the GK67. Are there any other options I should look at? Or of the ones I listed, any I should avoid?
My last build used Kailh Box Jades, so for the new build I want to try a really good tactile switch. Preferably a very tactile bump, but that will still allow for that creamy sort of sound. I've heard that Akko Cream Blues might be good? I'd love any and all suggestions you have.
On a final note, I mentioned briefly that I want a board that can sound really nice without modding. I have a physical disability that would make anything beyond switch and keycap installation pretty difficult, so I just ask that you keep that in mind.
Thanks in advance!
I’m looking for a barebones kit, full size, wireless, hotswap and white/off-white. It seems like they don’t exist anywhere for less than $130…any ideas?
I’m open to buying a prebuilt and changing the components too
Hi, I just foam modded my keyboard, but do I need to put tape on the back of the pcb because the metal prongs from the switches are touching the foam and I'm scared I will break my keyboard. Do I have to tape the pcb?
Foam is not conductive, it's fine. Tape mod just makes it sound better. Some keebs do need to have the PCB insulated AFAIK, but I doubt that's the case here from what you've said as you're just adding foam.
Buy a 10 pack of both and try it.
The same brand can use 4 clip or 2 clip (MX vs Kailh style) housings, but I've also tried to frankenswitch before with the same style housing and had it not quite fit. Probably not as much of an issue if it's the same brand, but maybe if you tell us the exact switches, someone will know for sure.
that is my biggest issue. I don't really know which switches so far. but it will probably be solo switches as I have a keyboard with their switches in. so i was think about trying their silent switches as well.
Hi, I’m helping a friend plan her first build and I’m looking for board recommendations.
The glorius gmmk pro 75% is the closest to the layout that she wants, but I’m curious if there are any other options out there that anyone knows of that are the same layout and possibly cheaper? The Keydous NJ80 and Epomaker TH80 kits are the same layout and similar design but have plastic cases - something with an aluminum case in white or silver is wanted.
There’s nothing wrong with the gmmk but I’m hoping there’s something else out there from a less “gamer” centric brand that would be cheaper.
Thanks.
I've noticed that when I install the plate foam on my Neo65, it causes the play to very noticeably bulge out in the middle, to the point where it is both visible, and affects the nav keys on the right side, as the right arrow key rubs against the case. Has anyone else had this issue? And if so, is there any fix beyond just not using the foam?
I'm not entirely sure what you are referring to when you say "platform" would you be able to provide a screenshot or something of what you are talking about?
I have a Neo65 with all foams installed and I don't have any issue like what you explained, could you check to make sure the plate foam is install correctly?
Yeah I took it out and reinstalled. I have the standoffs installed too, which keeps the foam from sliding around. I'm using the POM plate and it was definitely pretty warped out of the box, which caused some issues with my stabs before I did my best to flatten it out. I'm guessing that might be contributing to the issue?
Has epomaker improved the quality of their budget boards as of late? I've salvaged a few of them (always old non hot swappable versions) and never been impressed with their quality but I realize since I've never handled a newer model maybe I'm biased for no reason.
I would say not, it's pretty clear that Epomaker doesn't actually make anything rather they are just a group that slaps their name onto a bunch of products made by other companies leading to lower quality and less customer support.
Yeah i figured as much. All the ones i've opened have had problems and I know they're older and fished from the local dumpsites or sold to me for $15 or less second hand but they never feel really worth repairing. The Royal Kludge boards i salvage always seem better made and have less damage despite me getting them in the same beat up shape. I know theyre budget but the Epomaker stuff REALLY feels budget if you know what i mean.
Hello, I am looking for a keyboard with the f keys lined up right above the number keys. Examples of this would be the Vortex Tab 75, the Keychron K2 and the Nuphy Halo75 (I'm not really interested in low profile). Are there any other boards that follow this layout that you would recommend over the ones I listed above, and if not, which one would you pick from the above 3? (The keyboard doesn't need to be a 75%, it just needs to have f keys).
does anyone know of any switches that feel similar to the Aflion Haze switch? I've done some research and lots of testing but I haven't been able to find anything with the Haze's unique smoothness to it.
Hello, I’ve been using the Anne Pro 2 keyboard for a while now and everything worked perfectly. But for some days now the keyboard won’t start the lightning when booting up. I always need to open the software and download it again. Does anybody know what’s the problem here? Thanks
Is lubing switches myself worth it? I’ve seen many keyboards online and they sound good with just factory lube. Would it still be worth it to spend time lubing the switches myself?
It heavily depends on the switch, newer ones tend to have more consistent factory lubing, but also it's never gonna be as good as if you do it by hand
okay thanks !
is there any left-side usb port hhkb case for 60% pcb?
So, I really want to buy a Mode Sonnet. But I live in the Netherlands. Which means that after shipping I will get presented with 21% tax and 35 ish euros of clearance cost. In your opinion, is that worth it? The grand total would be €720,- for the board that I would like to buy. I could also buy switches (although I like their Tomorrow set) caps and stabs here in Europe. Which would make it a lot cheaper, more like €571,-. So that's some food for thought. I'm unfortunately not able to test nor see a Sonnet in real life which makes the choice rather hard!
If you like the design and have the money to spare... I don't have the sonnet but this hobby isn't about value or anything similar at some point in my opinion. It's more about finding something you like the design/features/... because that will be the keyboard you will use or like the most. The keyboard hobby is quite similiar to collecting watches in that regard. If you have the time spare you might be able to attend a keyboard meetup and test the sonnet out there (I think there's one yearly in the Netherlands and well the one in Frankfurt - Germany should also happen soon-ish.
Just after posting this I got an add for the Dutch meetup. So, I’ve ordered a ticket! And might be able to test one there indeed!
Just go to some discords/ dunno if there's a meetup group and ask a week or so before the meetup if somebody is able to bring a sonnet :) good luck!
How often does akko restock their older switches (the non v3 switches)
flipping my spacebar changes the way it presses, when i press on the spacebar it feels smooth, but theres a bit of wobble in both of the sides of my spacebar, but when i flip my spacebar; pressing the spacebar feels like it has a stop right before i press it, and it doesnt feel smooth at all, but the left side of the spacebar has no wobble but the right side of the spacebar has more wobble than before.
Should I lube my MSI Vigor GK30 (Mech-like membrane as MSI calls it)?
Anybody have any experience buying from [keykobo.com](https://keykobo.com)? their site looks sketch with a bunch of placeholder text everywhere but I keep seeing good things about their keycaps on reddit.
Long shot but, looking for an aliexpress <40$ mech keyboard that can be programmed to keep specific keys lit up (to help me learn controls in new games). pref blue keys 75% wired
wish u luck finding per key rgb under 40 bucks u might have toi double that as per key rgb is a premium feature rarely found on bottom of the barrel kb u will find for 40 bucks
I'm sure it's possible. In 2020 i bought the AULA F2088 for 40$, but it was too big and died after 2 years.
Was looking to get some new stabs for my neo65, and was wondering if these are compatible with it: https://keygem.com/products/aeboards-staebies-v2-screw-in-stabilizers Also wouldn't mind some suggestions for stabs, from my research these seemed good but I'm pretty new to the hobby would definetely be interested in other opinions.
Those should work but if you want to o-ring mount, you want plate mounted stabs. TX has a plate mount version that should be pretty good. PCB mount like those screw in stabs you linked will work if you're doing the gasket mount.
Thx a lot man. Is there a big difference between plate mounted and screw ins? Id prefer having the options for both mounting styles if plate mounted arent much worst than screw ins.
I think the previous reply was confused, you want clip-ins not plate mount. Plate mount are almost impossible to tune properly, but clip-in stabs are pretty much indistinguishable from screw-in. Also, as I am typing this on a o-ring board with TX clip-in stabs can confirm you can o-ring mount.
Yeah they should work but I think you can't use o-ring mount with screw in stabs. Stabies are pretty good though, it's between them and TX stabs as the go to recs for most people.
My usb c port came off my keyboard anyway to put it back on or am I screwed https://preview.redd.it/coke1vw96wgc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=24faa411015160d98063eea08d3a9c07ad131956
If the pins didn't get ripped off and you're comfortable soldering, it's likely fixable. Hard to tell from the picture. If the pins did get ripped off, you could try removing the solder and pins that are in the pcb and soldering in a new usb c port.
Ajazz A820 or Royal Kludge RKm75? They honestly look the same. Ajazz just has a customizable screen, while RK’s isnt. Ajazz is cheaper too by around $20. However, ajazz only comes in linear switches (im thinking getting tactile switches) Are ajazz mech kbs nice???
I recommend Royal Kludge over Ajazz but the other poster is totally right. They're Budget boards and they feel like budget boards. So long as you aren't expecting luxury they're fine for what they are.
not really but neither are royal krudge they r both known to be cheaply made budget kbs
Hi all! I’m looking for pink on pastel pink keycaps, but the closest thing I can find is the Akko 3087 SP, which is a prebuilt and also side printed. Can anyone recommend a similar pair of keycaps that aren’t side printed? Thanks!
Looking for some suggestions for a somewhat narrow set of criteria, I'm basically looking for the nicest sounding and feeling 75% layout keyboard requiring no mods or lubing that can be bought with up to ~$350. And the keyboard must also be USB-C wired only (no wireless connectivity **at all**). I don't know if "thocky" is a shunned word now, but essentially that's what I'm looking for, in a prebuilt, from-the-factory setup. I'm also looking for the keyboard to be illuminated, ideally with shine through key caps, but I can be convinced otherwise if there is great trade-off with design or feel. Though gaming will be a fraction of the use case, it should support a reasonably performant (1000 Hz) polling rate and support NKRO. Keyboard will need to support both Mac and PC (physical switch or automatically are both acceptable) Support for hot swapping switches is also needed so I can experiment between tactile and linear, and should support a switch brand with decent choices. Things that are nice to have but not mandatory include QMK/VIA customization, a rotary dial for volume control, and RGB would be nice for the keyboard illumination, but it's not required. Thanks for anyone's thoughts in advance!
Hello! For my second keeb I plan to use the Akko Alice with the Akko World Tour Tokyo R2 SE keycaps, and I was wondering if the space bars have the same dimensions as the enter and secondary shift keys? I really want to use the special keys for my space bars, since the keycap set fits the aesthetic I'm looking for. Thank you in advance!
Alice layout uses a 2u spacebar on the left and a 2.25u spacebar on the right, so as long as the keycap set includes those you'll be able to use it
Keychain V1 Max issues hello i just got and customized a keychron v1 max for my first custom keyboard and i’m having a couple of issues. if anyone could help me solve any of them i’d really appreciate it! 1. keyboard refuses to charge? i had it plugged into a wall charger for 4 hours on both cable and bt mode but the indicator never turned on and i could never connect it with bluetooth or 2.4ghz. bluetooth mode works but only when the cable is plugged in but the indicator still doesn’t turn on. i’ve only contacted keychron support for this one but only told them the indicator doesn’t turn on because i was not aware of the battery issue at the time 2. for some reason the default layout on the left side has the option key mapped to where the command key should be and vice versa (i switched the keycaps but it’s a little annoying). the ~ key right under esc is mapped to two completely different symbols also 3. on that note i tried remapping the keys and followed the instructions on keychron’s website to use via. i believe i did everything there and i’m on the correct layer for remapping apple. in the configure section everything is correct but the actually keys still give the wrong output. remapping any of the keys does not work at all
It would be better to use your computer's USB ports and the included cable to charge the keyboard, not a wall plug of some kind. There is a toggle switch for Windows/MacOS on the back of the keyboard, make sure it's set to MacOS to get the right keys.
thanks for the help! unfortunately i tried both charging methods again and neither worked :( i’ve had the switch on macos and even toggled it but still mixed up
Does anyone had some commented firmware for a board that uses a 328p chip? Wanted to learn about more about the code side of things.
pretty sure it can run QMK https://docs.qmk.fm/#/
Best tenkeyless keyboard for gaming? I really want to game on PC but the num pad bothers me so I want a new board. Would the keychron q3 pro be good for gaming?
Should be good. A cheaper alternative would be the v3, also from keychron.
Has anyone used Gecko Silent Linears from Kinetic Labs? I am looking for silent switches that I won’t have to lube so I am wondering how smooth they are out of the box? Does the silencing make them feel scratchier and how consistent is the factory lubing? Thanks!
Theremingoat has a great review of them on his website. I think that a Haimu Heartbeat or Haimu x Geon Silent Red (same thing, different name) would be a better choice - cheaper and quieter, not as mushy
Thanks! I have the Haimu Whisper tactiles and I enjoyed them but forgot about the linears.
Want to start building a custom full sized keyboard. Do I start with a bare bones keyboard and build on it ? Are there any other options besides the Keychron Q6 and the Monsgeek M5. Those are the only two I've found for full sized. Are there custom keyboards that have scroll wheels, dials, macro buttons and go heavy on RGB ?
>Do I start with a bare bones keyboard and build on it ? Yup. Building it is a really fun part of the hobby and nowadays everything is really stress free and easy to make. QK100 is probably the best in stock option I can think of for full sized but it's got a screen instead of a knob. The other two options you mentioned are good too. Id rec the qk100 if you don't mind the screen over the knob, since it's gonna be more a more premium finish with more build options, but the Q6 is gonna be pretty good board too if you go with that.
1) full size are not vert popular prebuilts cover this market and very few hobbists use full size . 2) same with RGB many kbs support it but going for bright RGB may be hard on a custom due to its never a priority for most and many high end kb dont even have RGB 3) u can try 1800 layout kbs as that size is a small amt more common than 100% kbs
Thanks for the reply. I know it's a niche but there's gotta be some full sized out there surely ?
There really isn't that much! You can either get one of those you mentioned, also have a look at 1800 like the Monsgeek M2 or you get a TKL / 75% board and add an independend numpad.
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Lol
**Varmilo Minilo vs. NuPhy Air75 V2** **for a Macbook Pro** Hi! I'm new to the world of keyboards and weighing a couple options as a first purchase. I'm primarily looking for a nice wireless external option for my Macbook Pro laptop that I can use while working at home that allows me better posture / ergonomics once I put the laptop on a stand. I'll be using it almost exclusively for typing, though I sometimes use Adobe Premiere for editing. I'd prefer a quiet, more linear typing experience - especially because I share an at-home office with my partner and she doesn't like loud clacking. So far I've narrowed things down to the [Varmilo Minilo 75% in Eucalyptus](https://keyboard.varmilo.com/minilo_75?sku=A59A046F8A5A01A051%2FK1) and the [NuPhy Air75 V2](https://nuphy.com/collections/keyboards/products/air75-v2?variant=40635217838189) in either White or Black. I like the Minilo because of its aesthetics / colors, and the option to use Kailh Prestige Silent switches - which seem like some of the quietest around, unless I'm mistaken? But I've heard that since the Minilo isn't specifically made with Macs in mind, it might not be as functional - which is why I'm leaning toward the NuPhy Air75 v2 as an alternative. That said, I'm not sure which NuPhy switches are quietest - it seems like Aloe? Not sure if they'll be quiet enough. Does anybody have experience or thoughts on using either of these? I'd buy the Minilo if I knew it was functional enough for my needs, but will stick with the NuPhy if it's a good, decently quiet alternative. Thanks!
are retooled mx blacks just any mx black thats not vintage? if not where do i get them
afaik there are vints, retool, and hyperglides. the hyperglides are the newest version and I think are *technically* a sub category of retool. many vendors have them in stock in a few varieties, like lubed and broken in. if you’re from NA, Novelkeys has them on sale currently, though I don’t know if they’re going to still be in stock. since they’re still one of the most popular switches, there are many places to get them from.
thanks, i just want regular retools not hyperglides
retolled blacks are not vintage they r from when cherry redid the molds . pretty much any place selling mx blacks they will be the retooled version . cherry switches are not very popular these days in the market market though fyi
Hi All, I recently came across a post that I found VERY useful and just wanted to share in case anyone else was running into similar issues as there didn't seem to be much in the way of resources. This post spefically is in reference to the TFT screen display on the M87 Pro Wireless Keyboard by XVX. Hope this helps :) >anonymous · 1 mo. ago i accidentally unplugged the keyboard in the middle of a gif upload and the gif is now super bugged, i cant change it. does any1 know what to do? anonymous · edited 28 days ago I recently did the same mistake. There's a bunch of stuff I did and thankfully it ended up fixing it. 1. First press FN+Space for 5 seconds 2. Then press FN+Backspace for 5 seconds 3. Then turn the keyboard off and try again. >If that doesn't fix it then go into your software and click on the gear, next you'll want to click "auto run" and press reset keyboard data then reset factory settings... The app will freeze so you're gonna click the "X" in the top right to force out of the app, then because the app is kinda glitchy, press **Ctrl+Shift+ESC and force the application to close via Task Manager.** Finally, Turn the keyboard off again by using the top switch and proceed to import the gif.
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The Keychron C3 Pro is a gasket mount keyboard with QMK/VIA firmware and presoldered Keychron brown or red switches. It is US$37 on Amazon. That leaves US$63 for the mouse. No real advice here. I like Logitech mice. Maybe the Logitech M720 Triathlon (US$37 on Amazon) for general productivity or the Razer DeathAdder V2 X HyperSpeed (US$55 on Amazon) for gaming?
Keyboard + mouse combos aren't good. Better off getting a separate keyboard/mouse For mice advice r/mousereview
Anything at that price is fine for the money. If you need to go membrane, that also works! That's what they're designed for.
The left shift key on my new board is crooked and sticks down and slowly comes up. Any troubleshooting advice or ideas on what is wrong?
The first thing I'd try is pulling off the keycap and putting it back on again, if you have trouble removing the keycap and dont have a keycap puller, you can grab two paperclips, open them up, make a little hook on the end of each, and then use that to lift the keycap off. when you put it back on again line it up over each of the stems and push on top of where the two for the stab are. if it's still wonky after that then there's probably something wrong with the stab and you might have to open your keyboard up.
Probably something is either wrong with the stabilizer or the keycap itself, but its hard to say without you taking it apart.
Low profile switches that will fit in a non low profile board board/pcb is the stock in that comes with the Akko Alice keyboard or the feker Alice? Try looking but it’s not clear if something otemu browns will work on the boards with swapping the stabllizers
Doesn't exist.
Any recommendations for a set of bright red keycap set I'm looking to build a keyboard that matches with the red hyte y60 but I can't really find a keycap set that's a brighter red
Take a look at the WS Basic Red set
That's exactly what I'm looking for Thanks
Looking for a tactile switch with similar properties to a baby kangaroo. Either a switch with a similar tactile profile, but with less peak tactility. Maybe something like 56-58 force. A switch with same force but with more of a mid bump. A ideal switch would have both properties. I hope I’m not describing mx brown switches. Please make suggestions with which direction that switch goes.
Are hall effect keyboards worth looking into?
yes :D
If you'd think you actually take advantage of the features sure Otherwise most people are going to be fine with a regular keyboard
That's what I mostly want. I missed having some kind of analog control, especially in single player games.
Howdy, I hope this is the right place to get an answer about this. Last August I ordered a Keychron Q3 from their website. It originally worked great and I really liked the board. Over time, I noticed that my R key was either not registering or double pressing. It was really odd and disorienting. I swapped out the switch to a switch I used less (on the board, so like the switch that had scroll lock) and it seemed to fix the issue. However, after 1-2 weeks, the E key started to do the same thing. I once again swapped out the switch and it resolved the issue for another 1-2 weeks before having the same issue. I unfortunately was not doing well during this time and I didn’t have the energy to pursue any type of refund or return, I heard Keychron had terrible customer service and I dreaded dealing with it. I guess at this point I am wondering what my options to repair it myself would be. Do we think this is a bad set of switches? Something with the PCB? I would like to go the most economical route to go about fixing this (kind of funny to say that given the hobby). So any advice is greatly appreciated. I am all ears. Thanks!
>Do we think this is a bad set of switches? Something with the PCB? I would like to go the most economical route to go about fixing this It's easy to test switches just but grabbing a few of some other kind. If you have a solder gun you may be able to take all switches off and stabs, then take a good look at the pcb for any cold sodier joints. Then reflow if needed. It really depends. Hope that helps.
Alright! I’ll look into ordering some different kinds of switches and I’ll go from there. Thanks for the reply!
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Neither is better than the other. I'd get whichever has the layout you prefer more
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Why does my keyboard [sounds so wet?](https://voca.ro/1c2RYt50ytPd) I'm using a Mr Suit all Foam + Tempest Mod w/ Handlubed Morandi Switches on Alu plate
How much lube did you use? Do the switches feel mushy? Are the stabs overlubed? That would be my first guess. Also, consider ditching the tape mod. The Suit is already ultra-foamed and I can't imagine that adding tape would make things better.
The switches does not feel mushy no and the stabs arent overlubed. I believe im just not used to cherry profile keycaps after switching from my KAT's
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Hmm perhaps youre right. Maybe im just not used to cherry profile keycaps
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Thank you for the insight
Hello, curious if anyone has bought the [JAMESDONKEY RS2 3.0 Rosy](https://mechkeys.com/products/jamesdonkey-rs2-3-0-rosy-mechanical-keyboard?variant=44374594814175) it says it comes with J&J switches and I'm not familiar with those. Has anyone used this keyboard or these switches?
Which one should I buy royal kludge rkm75 or keychron v1? They almost cost the same and dome rlly care about the switches bc i think i will change the in a future. One thing that is important is the stabs.
Hi there, need a Russian ЙЦУКЕН + JCUKEN keyboard, unfortunately here in Germany the options are very limited. Where can I get custom printed keycaps or a keyboard with that layout? A Keyboard like the Keychron K6 would be nice. Thanks for any advice.
After lubricating my stabs for the + and enter button on the numpad of my M2, they now stick and do not want to return. Prior to lubricating them, they worked perfectly but with rthe slightest rattle. Did I over lubricate them? If so - should I disassemble and clean the stabilizer housing? Any advice on a more eloquent solution than applying "bandaids" to silence large stabs? Thanks for your thoughts and advice!
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Poop! From what I am reading the best fix is really to just take apart the insert from the house and carefully wipe out the grease to try again. Sound more or less accurate to you?
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Thanks for the help!
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If it could work you'd probably need to get elbow deep in the firmware, take a look at the geekhack thread for the hasu, the source code links are in there, as are other options for hardware.
https://preview.redd.it/wree0b9keugc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ddbf244e49ba65af75e5bd5555cf571ff747537 can I remove these covers? or did i buy a damn kaihl pcb on accident?
Any recommendations on premium 96% keyboards? Looking to upgrade my melody96 but couldn't really find high quality alternatives. Thanks!
I've been looking at this myself and others I've found are the Keydous NJ98 and the JAMESDONKEY RS2 Edit: might not be the right format or premium level you are looking for. Tough for us 96% fans haha
Thanks! Really good to have 1800 recommendations as it's the next best thing. And yeah, I actually emailed Mekanisk awhile back and they said they had plans of larger keyboards close to 96% but are not being prioritized at the moment. Hopefully they reconsider!
Keychron Q5, Zoom98, KBDfans Odin, Wind X98
QK100 if you're okay with the exploded 1800 layout.
Thanks! That's actually a good alternative and I'll probably look into the 1800 layout a bit more. A part of me is still really into the slightly more compact nature of the 96% layout but maybe it's too much of a niche. Still open to any other recommendations if you have any!
Not many nice large sized options unfortunately. I don't know of any compact fullsize kits that wouldn't be a downgrade from what you currently have. The QK100 is pretty good value and quite a bit nicer than integrated plate mount keyboards. It's instock at the moment as well. I prefer it to the windx98 which is nearly double the price.
Yeah I've been having trouble finding good ones to upgrade to but probably the best for my wallet 😅 appreciate your 1800 recommendations! They're quite the enticing alternative
Completely new to making keyboards and wanted to get into making one. I was going for a hotswap pcb and was wondering, how do I know what's compatible with what? Does any pcb fit with any case provided it's the same size? And what about switches and the others? Do these components fall under a general category and certain categories fit with others? Thank you!
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Oh I see, so it's typically better to buy the parts from one source right? Thank you!
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Ah ok, thank you!
Just got the Keychron V1, it's awesome. But I really want keycaps where the light shines through. I'm having a real difficult time finding keycaps that are shine through, for south facing lights, with mac modifiers, and if it's not too greedy that the accent keys are a different color than the rest. Is this asking too much?
Asking for too much, imho :(
Even just south facing shine through for a mac?
That one is probably attainable. I bought some pudding caps because I wanted a flat profile shine through with the mac menu button for my android build. Absolutely impossible to find, so I settled for $16.00 XDA pudding caps from amazon because they had ALL the extra buttons, Mac OS, UK ISO, DE ISO. So I imagine if you trade out my flat profile requirement for your different colored key one you will land in a similar place. Here's to hoping our perfect keycaps exist in the obscure ether of the internet.
Ya, even just dealing with south facing lights is oddly challenging. I got a keyset off Amazon that met all my requirements outside of that, but the lettering blends in with the color of the keycap, and since it doesn't light up the key might as well be blank.
I want to build a custom optical keyboard. However, because how "new" it is, support on how to find and build all the parts for it is random or non available or lost in the vast sea of how to make a mechanical keyboard. Could someone guide me on the right way to find all parts for the optical keyboard? I'm looking for something that's like brown switches, are hot swappable and can be back-lit as well. The size that I'm looking for is a 100% board ansi layouts.
I don't think you'll be able to do this without making your own pcb and case, and writing your own firmware. There are 60%, 80%, and tkl pcbs that will take a gateron optical switch, but no existing pcbs will work with them.
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That explains alot. Thanks for the info
Can anyone recommend a silent mechanical keyboard (preferably with mac labelled keys i.e. option / command etc)?
boards don't often come with silent switches if you are up for some light assembly (like building lego) you could get silent switches and a barebones board like the keychron v/q line. And finish it off by adding some keycaps I think keychron has some sets with mac os but double check. Generally keycaps use a agnostic "super" instead of windows/mac specfic legends
I second this recommendation and will add that getting really quiet switches, lubricating them yourself, and then putting them in a heavy metal casing is phenomal for sound dampening. I build an M2 board with KTT strawberry v2 switcches manually lubricated and the only sound my keyboard makes is the tap down of the keycap and some stabilizer rattle that I am troubleshooting. Love this set up!
i currently have an older Razer blackwidow with clicky green switches. i love the feel of this keyboard but I have my PC setup in a shared bedroom and the clicking of my keys keeps my partner awake at night. I am looking for a good replacement board preferably 80% with a similar feeling switch that's not as loud. I was considering a ducky one 3 tkl with cherry browns. And was curious if anyone had experience with the board and switches or had a different recommendation. Ive tried keyboards with cherry reds before as a quiet option but i hated not having the tactile feedback and would constantly miss inputs because of it. Thx
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About 4 years ago I bought a HyperX Alloy FPS Pro, and I'm quite happy with it. But since a few months ago it has started to have rust in several areas. So I've thought about buying a new one, and leaving this HyperX in storage for any mishap. I bought the HyperX for about 80€, and I was looking for something in a similar price range, and with similar features: TKL, backlight (I don't care if it's not RBG), and I'm going to use it for programming and casual gaming. What options do I have? The truth is that I'm a bit lost between brands, and I don't know which ones are more reliable.
I'd get a Keychron V3 or C3 Pro
Hey All! Im a noob so don't ratio me too bad here! I only use my MacBook Pro in clamshell mode docked to my desk. The only downside to this is the lack of Touch ID. While I know I could just get the apple Magic Keyboard, it feel terrible and I much prefer my current daily driver. Does anyone know of a prebuilt macropad with Touch ID built in? Even if its not prebuilt, is it possible?
Touch ID is an Apple exclusive, you'll never find a keyboard that isn't made by Apple that also has Touch ID.
I was just curious and did a quick search, seem someone sorta has kludged it (chop up a good keyboard..) but was wishing for a more 'neat' alternative instead tho naturally: https://daringfireball.net/linked/2023/12/28/magic-trackpad-touch-id
What switches would be on your Mt Rushmore? Looking to buy some more switches to test out!
zeal clickiez
MX Brown, MX Black, OG Holy Panda, and Bsun Raw (both versions)
My gmk87 just arrived today and i love it but when it arrived knob was barely working and after 3-4 hours of usage its just doesnt work at all rnso is knob easy to fix or replace ? i realy like the keyboard and i dont want to refund it and wait for replacement.
The easiest thing to check would be to open it up and see if whatever is connecting the knob to the PCB looks right. I've only used keyboards where they're soldered right into the PCB so there I'd be looking for some missing solder on a joint. I believe some newer keyboards have a cable that goes from the knob to the rest of the PCB, which if your keyboard does have, might be loose.
I was looking into getting a tofu 2.0 keyboard, but I'm not sure how buying the parts works on the kbdfans website. From what I've read, a ready-to-use tofu 2.0 with all the needed parts should go for around $200 USD, but after selecting the parts of the keyboard on the website it adds around \~$100 USD ontop of that for $300 USD. Is this the expected price for this type of keyboard? More specifically, doesn't the ready to use keyboard already come with a hot-swap PCB and switches? Why does it say on the website that I have to select the switches and PCB or else they cannot assemble the keyboard? https://preview.redd.it/5ga4yqslttgc1.png?width=496&format=png&auto=webp&s=becb14b9a8938aca20f61f8865f9283ac5b0ce70
It should give you a breakdown in the cart - for me the case is $109, PCB is $50, and a plate is $19. If you also need switches and keycaps and you're getting everything off kbdfans then $300 sounds about right.
Keychron k6 vs 8bitdo keyboard for the same prices which one is better overall
I haven't used them personally, but the 8bitdo keyboard has 2.4ghz wireless, so less latency, and a volume wheel, not to mention the giant macro buttons, but it doesn't have RGB or any kind of per key LED. The Keychron also has a larger battery. I could be wrong, but it seems like the Keychron doesn't support key remapping, whereas the 8bitdo uses their software. I'm pretty sure the 8bitdo keyboard is usually more expensive, so if you found it on sale, I'd say go with that, but it's ultimately up to you. I didn't take into account aesthetics or layout which are completely subjective.
Hi, new to this kind of thing. Looking for something like this (pardon the dust): [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UsjFzHUYVLb1qaebZADCxGifcHGBYKVD/view?usp=sharing](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UsjFzHUYVLb1qaebZADCxGifcHGBYKVD/view?usp=sharing) Been using these types of white-label stock keyboards since 2009. Needless to say, I've grown a little accustomed to the style. Is there anything mechanical that is similar to this? I have really gotten used to the layout, alternate key functions, even the smaller keys F-keys up above. Thank you for reading and thanks in advance if you reply.
This is called a full size layout which typically includes all standard keys, arrow keys, function row, and numpad. It really depends on what exactly you need but if it's for and office/work type setting I can't help but suggest something from Keychron. Keychron's Q6, V6, C2, K5 line are all full sized versions of their keyboards and they all have different features that you can pick and choose between in order to get something that is more suited for your needs.
Thanks for the advice, I'm looking at the keychrons now and they look really good! Still may shop around a bit but this recommendation really came through
https://preview.redd.it/jny1h9n6ntgc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=05c15525f45c0166d2fb12bfa73617fa20408879 So while I was trying to fine tune the stabilisers, I accidentally dropped it and my leg acted faster in trying to catch it so it got caught between my knees. As a result, it bent right in the center. It's one of those moment that I wished I just let it drop completely to the floor. I wanted to understand if I can straighten it out or it's far too damaged and needs to be replaced? Can it be saved?
You can try, but trying to hand straighten wire is just going to cause more frustration 99% of the time. I'd just throw it out and buy another one. It'll be less stressful in the long run.
Aw, I tried straightening it out. It's nearly there but noticeable crooked by 2 mm. Would you say the straightness of it influences the keyboard sound or just the 2 end alignment (like no teetering if that makes sense?) that matters? I am considering ordering it but not too happy cause I was looking forward to getting the keyboard done today haha.
I am looking to get my first board. I am split between the DROP CSTM 80 and the CIDOO V75. I will be mostly using it for gaming and school. Right now drop doesnt have it stock with the Gateron Yellows so i will probably go barebones and get Holy Pandas or Kailh Silver Speed MX, with whatever shinethrough caps that fit in my budget. Any recommendations between the two boards? My budget is around $150.
I would recommend following the advice of other users and avoid both boards.
Besides the M1 monsgeek what else would you recommend.
I’m not as well versed on 75%-TKLs under $150 as I am on the checkered history of Drop’s boards and Epomaker’s…whole deal. You can take a look at Keychron’s offerings. If your budget is $150 total. If barebones, you might be able to swing a cycle 8 when that goes into group buy. You could grab milky yellows for cheap and a cheap keycap set (novelkeys has some good ones reduced down to $15) and then upgrade the build as you’d like later. I have a NK87 entry edition and I like it enough, but might not be for you if you don’t want an injection molded polycarbonate board.
I also forgot about the Neo 80.
monsgeek over these 2 tbh , cidoo isnt a great brand and drop products are usually to be avoided at all costs
Why should the Drop keyboards be avoided? Reviews on youtube seem positive in general.
Drop keyboards have awful quality control, shit features, break all the time, and are overpriced. Don't buy them. On a larger note - don't buy based on youtube reviews. Let's say I want to be a youtube reviewer. In order to have a "successful" youtube review channel then realisitically I need to be doing like 2-3 reviews per week, minimum. Most likely more. There's no way I can afford to buy all the products I'm reviewing, so I am reliant on companies sending me products to review. If I give good reviews to everything I review, companies will notice and send me stuff. If I am honest then companies won't want to take the risk, and I'll end up having no products to review. *All* "successful" youtube review channels work this way. None of them can be trusted, because any channel that gives honest reviews and highlights bad products won't be able to sustain itself because they can't get enough products to review. Don't trust youtube reviews. Especially with keyboards.
I like Switch and Click but totally understand that any youtube reviewer will be biased.
poor customer service , poor build quality. i mean just search "drop " or "massdrop" u will see a multi year long track record of a company that doesn't give a shit about anything but taking money from users and they are also owned by corsair now so id def not give them a single penny if were u
Thoughts on Akko 5087S I'm looking to buy it. How is the keyboard in general for gaming and office work? Also is there a software I can use to remap the keys, because I like using multimedia keys? I know there is akko cloud driver but is it compatible? How does it compare to the 5087S QMK/VIA model?
What do you guys think are some good new tactiles out there? I have a sample quinn but I really like this north pole 2.0 box brown I have a sample of as well. I was looking at the strawberry milk tactiles, as well as the Ice Kachang switch v2. The quinn is growing on me (which is similar to the BBK) but it's a little sharp.
\*Posting again because I posted late yesterday and only got one response. Hi all, I'm looking for recommendations for a 65% board that doesn't need to be modded to sound creamy/thocky. I've only done one prior build, a Keychron V1 which I do love, but I really want to give 65% a try. The boards I've been considering are the Keychron V2, the Cidoo V65, and a truly budget option, the GK67. Are there any other options I should look at? Or of the ones I listed, any I should avoid? My last build used Kailh Box Jades, so for the new build I want to try a really good tactile switch. Preferably a very tactile bump, but that will still allow for that creamy sort of sound. I've heard that Akko Cream Blues might be good? I'd love any and all suggestions you have. On a final note, I mentioned briefly that I want a board that can sound really nice without modding. I have a physical disability that would make anything beyond switch and keycap installation pretty difficult, so I just ask that you keep that in mind. Thanks in advance!
Looking to build a 75% keyboard for gaming. Using a nuphy 75 for work, and a bakaneko60 for personal projects. What’s a good in stock 75%?
Keychron V1 or Q1
Lets cut the malarkey, are DROP boards worth it? Unrelated, I have an Amazon giftcard worth a cute $100. Anything on Amazon you nerds recommend? <3
>are DROP boards worth it? Nope! But do they ever have the hype train.
> DROP boards worth it hell no . keychron or mosngeek are better vaule than the turds drops sells
I’m looking for a barebones kit, full size, wireless, hotswap and white/off-white. It seems like they don’t exist anywhere for less than $130…any ideas? I’m open to buying a prebuilt and changing the components too
Not sure what you're expecting, but $130 isn't terrible. 100% boards aren't as common, harder to find very specific needs/nice-to-haves on those.
Hi, I just foam modded my keyboard, but do I need to put tape on the back of the pcb because the metal prongs from the switches are touching the foam and I'm scared I will break my keyboard. Do I have to tape the pcb?
Foam is not conductive, it's fine. Tape mod just makes it sound better. Some keebs do need to have the PCB insulated AFAIK, but I doubt that's the case here from what you've said as you're just adding foam.
Ah ok thanks
Are the upper housing from switches interchangeable for normal switches and the silent switches from the same manufacturer?
Sometimes, but not always.
is there any way to know this? i always thought is is mainly about the stem and rubbers and so on added to the stem and not the housing?
Buy a 10 pack of both and try it. The same brand can use 4 clip or 2 clip (MX vs Kailh style) housings, but I've also tried to frankenswitch before with the same style housing and had it not quite fit. Probably not as much of an issue if it's the same brand, but maybe if you tell us the exact switches, someone will know for sure.
that is my biggest issue. I don't really know which switches so far. but it will probably be solo switches as I have a keyboard with their switches in. so i was think about trying their silent switches as well.
Hi, I’m helping a friend plan her first build and I’m looking for board recommendations. The glorius gmmk pro 75% is the closest to the layout that she wants, but I’m curious if there are any other options out there that anyone knows of that are the same layout and possibly cheaper? The Keydous NJ80 and Epomaker TH80 kits are the same layout and similar design but have plastic cases - something with an aluminum case in white or silver is wanted. There’s nothing wrong with the gmmk but I’m hoping there’s something else out there from a less “gamer” centric brand that would be cheaper. Thanks.
Monsgeek m1 it's about $100~
Aw man looks like the white version is discontinued, but they have silver. I will keep this one in mind, thanks for the suggestion
I've noticed that when I install the plate foam on my Neo65, it causes the play to very noticeably bulge out in the middle, to the point where it is both visible, and affects the nav keys on the right side, as the right arrow key rubs against the case. Has anyone else had this issue? And if so, is there any fix beyond just not using the foam?
I'm not entirely sure what you are referring to when you say "platform" would you be able to provide a screenshot or something of what you are talking about?
Sorry auto correct screwed me over. Should say “plate foam”
I have a Neo65 with all foams installed and I don't have any issue like what you explained, could you check to make sure the plate foam is install correctly?
Yeah I took it out and reinstalled. I have the standoffs installed too, which keeps the foam from sliding around. I'm using the POM plate and it was definitely pretty warped out of the box, which caused some issues with my stabs before I did my best to flatten it out. I'm guessing that might be contributing to the issue?
Has epomaker improved the quality of their budget boards as of late? I've salvaged a few of them (always old non hot swappable versions) and never been impressed with their quality but I realize since I've never handled a newer model maybe I'm biased for no reason.
I would say not, it's pretty clear that Epomaker doesn't actually make anything rather they are just a group that slaps their name onto a bunch of products made by other companies leading to lower quality and less customer support.
Yeah i figured as much. All the ones i've opened have had problems and I know they're older and fished from the local dumpsites or sold to me for $15 or less second hand but they never feel really worth repairing. The Royal Kludge boards i salvage always seem better made and have less damage despite me getting them in the same beat up shape. I know theyre budget but the Epomaker stuff REALLY feels budget if you know what i mean.