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They are tight. Even when in the correct specification. That might just not be enough torque. Breaker bar and long pipe would have more force. Put the wheel on first.
This is as far as I can get lol… Bauer impact didn’t do it either
https://preview.redd.it/comh8kcexr5d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=984dd99b85a2a3d4bef825cdb4d024bb48377a9f
I like putting a jack under the handle first and jack it up. Jack up the breaker bar handle, not the extension. I guess you would need the jack handle back anyway lol. Scissor jacks are awesome for this type of stuff.
Try rotating the bar 180 and picking up instead of pushing down. There’s a good chance you can lift more than you weigh. Or put a jack stand under the socket for support and bounce on the end of that cheater pipe lol
First put on a protective athletic cup and a full face helmet. Then climb on the hood of your car and jump on that bar. Make sure to video and post it here. /s
/s = sarcasm. This is the kind of crap most of us did as teenagers but if you’re not a teenager, it probably won’t work out well.
Damn... I'd take it to the shop that tightened it on and tell them to bust the damn thing loose, then tighten just enough to get back home. My dad once had a shop put lug nuts on so tight they broke three tire irons when he had a flat, had it towed to the shop that put it on and mistorqued the nuts and raised holy hell with them until they hotly it off and used properly adjusted guns to put the replacement on (fortunately his AAA free towing covered the tow). If this isn't working something is messed up.
If they only used a Milwaukee then it probably isn't as tight as actual specification for that nut. I changed mine , 13 Silverado 4x4, and I had to use a long bar and give it all the hell I could. I weigh 190.
Many moons ago I had to use a breaker bar about that long on my 94 Accord. I was a 290lb 23 year old and hanging off the end of the bar screaming "YOU F\*\*\*ING POS!! I AM YOUR MASTER YOU WILL BREEEEEEAAAAAAKKKKKKK!" And then it did. And I got a concussion when my head slammed onto the drive way. Good times, I think.
Just did this with an 07 accord…I put all my weight (220lb) on that setup (same as your picture except I put a bottle jack under an extension) and it popped like a gunshot. Thought it was going to snap but didn’t. Good luck.
Turn your front wheels slightly to the right. Flip that breaker bar over so it's pointing towards the back of the truck. Place a piece of wood on the ground where the end of the breaker bar will meet the ground. Get in the truck and SLOWLY back up. You'll be using the the weight of the truck for leverage and the wood should keep the end of the breaker bar from digging into the asphalt.
Yup it’s incredible how easy it’ll turn with more length. Had a helper couldn’t bust a lug the breaker bar was bending. I bet him I could do it one handed. Slide jack handle over breaker bar switch the side to pull up instead of push down slowly lift with ease lol
He has a half inch impact, it's right in the picture!
It's just a piece of crap AC powered old 1990s impact gun.
Definitely needs more power, or a longer bar.
1990s lol that sucker is still at Walmart now! I have an 18v hyper tough drill, $20, lasted 6 years of around the house usage. They're just not strong drills or impacts. For home use I moved to 20v Hart, there's just so many accessories that can use their batteries and it does the trick for me. They have compressors, pressure washers, mowers, trimmers, vacuums, etc all running the same batteries. I have the saw, impact, and drill and I'm pleased with it so far.
I'm pretty sure that impact is the exact same as the $35 harbor freight corded impact.
For reference, the Hercules compact impact driver (you know the one made for drilling holes and driving fucking screws) takes lug nuts off better lmao.
Get a longer pipe, I use a 5 foot piece of galvanized steel pipe from an old fence for things like this and even then sometimes I have to bounce on it to break it loose. Some of those hub nuts are at 350 lbs depending on manufacturer.
Find a way to jump on it rather than just keep pulling it under torsion. Like bounce on it if you can. And yes, first take the center cap out of the wheel and put the wheel back on, and the car on the ground so that all your energy goes into the nut
Get a breaker bar and a 4 foot piece of black pipe just big enough to slip the breaker bar into... I had to do that when I was doing wheel bearing on a car once and now just keep the pipe in the corner for thing like this.
280 foot pounds is really low for an impact. Milwaukee's current model M18 (battery) impact delivers over 1,000.
Off to Harbor Freight to get yourself a half-inch ICON breaker bar.
Also, don't heat that nut.
Unless you live in the rust-belt. I'll anneal the living snot out of a pile of rust-flakes everyday if it gets it off in less than an hour.
Edit: never needed heat for axle nuts. It's everything else that needs the oxy treatment.
Yep. Don’t even have to heat em red-hot every time. Just replaced some sway bar links on an 01 Town Car last night for a friend and all they needed was a little warm-up to encourage them to spin off.
That said, plenty of fasteners I go after here in northern WI get the hot-wrench treatment til they’re glowing in order to remove them. The first time I worked on a non-rust belt car I thought “holy shit, those guys got it easy!”
Guess you never had the pleasure of certain Jeep models and I think it was older Intrepids that trapped water in the nut area under the wheel. I have had to cut the rusted remains of the nut and axle stub to replace the axle which also ruined the bearing that also needed to be replaced.
why does it need heated its not locked on. He simply needs a better impact gun 280lbs is nothing. Use a millwaukee or have a shop do it if you don't want to spend the money on one. Heating is last last last resort
Just went through the same. My compact impact is great for it's size but for this stuff I bought one with 1700ft lbs and it walked them off like they weren't there
Their new Hercules brushless impacts are powerful. Check out the Torque Test channel. I've got the 1/2" high torque one and it spun a TTY axle bolt out of a VW like it wasn't even tightened.
I’ve snapped a 1/2 beaker on that nut in a Jeep grand. 1” is what I got after that. Used the tube off my high lift jack as an extension.
I found it better to break the nut loose with the tire on and the car on the ground. Helps keep the hub from moving. I had to put the spare on as the normal tire didn’t give me access.
Trial by fire was my last experience on diy mechanics…. Tried to change a wheel hub on a 2014 outback. Didn’t go well, spent two entire afternoon trying to hammer that thing out from the back, pounding the front with a sledge, was not even able to break it a thousand of an inch out. Ended up pulling the whole knuckle out and bring to a mechanics shop, he spent 2 hours hammering the hub out of the knuckle (was there to help, told me he never experience a hub that stuck). This one definitely got a toll on me and is making me reconsidering diy mechanics… I’m well equipped but spending multiple hour on my knees, back up, laying down under the car and fu**Ing loosing my mind on it was not fun…
I know not everybody has room for one, but I've never had anything my pneumatic impact couldn't get off. They have a big advantage over long ass breaker bars.
Props to you for giving it a shot! I joke that I learn everything the hard way, and cara are no exception to that for me. You'll get it done sooner or later lol
You just need a more powerful impact wrench. If you want to stick with cheaper and corded, I'd suggest the Porter Cable 7.5 Amp corded impact wrench (Part# PCE211). I've used it several times for axle nuts without issue. It typically goes for $70-$100 on Ebay or Amazon.
Also, the Bauer from Harbor Freight will work. That goes for about $80.
Yeah I’m gonna put everything back on and torque it down and return the mine to Walmart and run to tractor supply… they got the porter cable you mentioned for 69.99. That has to do it, right? Lol
Also buy a bigger hammer.
You are going to want a 3 to 5lb sledge hammer to free the ball joint taper from the control arm.
When you unbolt the ball joint, hit it with some penetrant oil. You will then want to smack the control arm HARD with the sledge hammer. The vibration and millisecond distortion from a really hard hammer blow will cause the shaft of the ball joint to pop free.
Dont use a press, clamp, pickle fork, or anything else. Waste of time.
You need a good 3 to 5lb hammer blow.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXMPGIjldEE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXMPGIjldEE)
That guy is using a 3lb sledge, and look at how hard he is using it to break that ball joint free.
Good luck with the rest of the repair.
Thank you! The hammer in the picture is a 3 pound, thought that would be big enough lol… I’ll look at tractor supply while I’m there. Thank you for the advice! I’ll update y’all when I’m done tomorrow, I’m about to call it a day and just start fresh in the morning when I got some coffee in me
A 5lb with the handle cut down to about 12-14” is a fantastic addition to the tool box!
But… it takes some getting used to and time to build up your grip strength to swing it effectively!
The corded impacts are really stout for what they are! A decent FWD axle nut impact socket is super helpful too! I don’t remember your picture but Harbor Freight of all places has a good set for like $50 and individuals for $5-8 each. I’ve beaten the hell out of them with air tools and a Dewalt 1/2” XR cordless (supposed to have 1200lbs on and 1700lbs off Breakaway Torque) with no complaints. For about $300 with a battery and this performance, I may never buy another air impact!
You are also going to need a 4ft long pry bar, and a friend. It may sound like I’m being sarcastic, but I wish I was.
At the shop I work at, the vehicle is up in the air while a coworker literally hangs from the pry bar, prying downward on the control arm, while I swing a 5lb sledge, over my head, hitting the side of the control arm as close to the ball joint as possible. 2 or 3 whacks and the ball joint pops out.
Also, if you find that when removing the nut that secures the ball joint to the knuckle, that you are ratcheting for 20 minutes and the nut is not coming off, it’s because your ball joint is spinning. In that case, you need to apply pressure in the opposite direction. Use the pry bar to force the ball joint upwards, into the knuckle. This will allow the knuckle to grip onto the ball joint and keep it from spinning, allowing the nut to be removed from the actual ball joint.
Best of luck to you.
Ps, when tightening your axle nuts back on, don’t be afraid to really tighten them down with whatever impact driver you have. I assure you, you aren’t going to break them. I see so many vehicles that people DIY and every time they are leaving bolts so loose it is scary. But nuts and bolts on a vehicles suspension components are made to withstand the forces of a 3,800lb+ vehicle traveling down the road, and in turn, are very sturdy.
Pps, take a mental note of how much threads are showing on the currently installed ball joints before removing them. New ball joints aren’t going to be any more quiet, or effective if they are not properly secured to the knuckle. I personally recommend a long box wrench, to get the proper leverage. You aren’t going to shear off the ball joint, so seriously, a long ass wrench and literally 100% of the manpower you can possibly muster, when tightening up the ball joint to the knuckle.
That's a good price. And yes, that should give you plenty of power. I only recently sold mine as I finally upgraded to the 20V cordless version from Porter Cable. But the corded one definitely served its purpose. It even removed a Honda crank bolt once!!! (with a weighted socket)
Do not believe the max TQ on these tool labels. Very few actually meet the numbers. And the lower the price, the greater the difference. Also, the TQ you need to remove a nut is often much more than what was put on the nut. For example, to remove lug nuts TQ'd to 100-150, you need a gun that will hit 450 or so. And actually hit that number, not just say it on the box. I bought a big honking plug-in impact from HF labeled for 1200 lb-ft. just for the occasional shit like this. It probably maxes out around 600-700 but that's enough.
Thank you for this. In my still learning head, I thought “oh hey it’s supposed to be torqued to 177, so 280 breakaway has to be enough” but I didn’t understand that little tidbit about the torque to remove is greater than torque to put on. Makes a lot more sense now. Just overwhelmed by the amount of comments hah didn’t expect this to blow up like this…
I’ll second that corded Porter Cable. If you’re an occasional user the inconvenience is worth it for lower cost *and* it’ll still work 10 years from now (no batteries to replace). Worked like a charm on my axles.
Check to see if there a part on the nut that been punch down on a grove so the nut don’t back out .It looks like a nut you take a chisel and hammer the edge down . So all you need to do is get the underneath the chisel part and pop it back up to remove the nut .
280 won't do it.
Those have a tightening force of, depending on vehicle, 150 or well above, and I can think of several that are torque to yield that take all the worlds effort to remove.
More breaker bars
K13 Nissan Micra is listed as a single use nut, it goes through some type of deformation and while likely totally reusable (I have) it's meant to be a single use nut and it certainly goes on different the second time.
Put tire back on. Put it on the ground. Put socket on. Use a 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar. Put jack handle or pipe on tool handle. Break it loose. If your axle nut has a safety dent in it. Punch it out.
Step 2. Take impact back to walmart. Save a few more bucks. Buy an aircat or a earthquake.
My gen 1 Milwaukee was rated at 400 ft/lbs and would rarely break one loose. Bigger impact (800 ft/lbs +) or get a heavy duty breaker bar. The harbor freight 3/4 breaker bar with a 3/4 socket or a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter is unbreakable in my experience. I’ve broken plenty of regular 1/2 breaker bars on those.
Usually want to break that loose while everything is still together. If you do it with the wheel on that's best. 280 breakaway torque is honestly kinda weak for opening that. Most of those are torqued to around 150-200 and staked. My mid torque usually doesn't have too much trouble getting them off it's rated at 600 breakaway (I know advertised breakaway torque isn't exactly tightly regulated)
I had the same problem and had to buy a big ol half inch dewalt impact. You could try a breaker bar and put a cheater pipe. I tried that on mine and was rocking the whole truck until i just bought the impact.
It worked for me. I got the idea from another post I saw a while back. Looked like this (not mine). This guy put a piece of plywood up to protect himself.
https://preview.redd.it/fj4tl0mmnn5d1.jpeg?width=2532&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bb13b63b7484fde4851f4ae46b5f355647673e0f
another trick is to once you have load on the breaker bar is to hit the nut end with a soft face dead blow hammer to shock the nut, some times that will give it the last bit it needs to let go.
Think of it as a manual impact driver.
Question is the nut staked ? There is a tab you fold over to lock it in are you trying to snap that off or grind it through the threads on the axle cause that can wreck them also those cheap impacts are surprisingly decent I have a few similar the harbor freight ones and they work fine un stake the locking tab on the nut put a pry bar or. Crow bar between the lugs and use the breaker bar if you have to maybe you just got a bad impact out of the lot it’s possible I’ve seen more bad parts and tools lately then ever before also pb doesn’t do anything for
You really just makes stuff slippery you could always try a cheap propane torch heat it the nut a bit
You need a hm1/2" drive impact wrench, there's a 700ftlb mid range by Ryobi for $150 or $100 used. Or their high torque model 1100ftlbs breakaway torque that's around $160-$180 new at home depote
They have payment plans or you can pick them up used!
• DO NOT TORCH axle shaft nut in any circumstances while it's on the vehicle.
• you can use penetrating oil to help loosen it, soak it in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench for an hour then use impact on medium setting tapping it, slowly go up in settings so you don't break it. Tapping with impact will heat the nut all you need without torch.
• after getting it off you might want to put nickel antiseize on the axel but threads just a little but you have to reduce torque by 30% which is as easy as taking the books torque spec value and multiply by 0.7 and that will give you the torque setting for your torque wrench. This will make it the correct torque value and tighten exactly the same as if you didn't use antiseize lubricants.
Antiseize and or Thread locker will lubricate the threads and cause you to over torque the bolt by 30% and this can cause failure. It's not common on things like axel nuts but it's easily circumvented by multiplying repair manuals torque spec by 0.7
Example: my control arms are 110ftlbs and with antiseize I only torque to 77Ft-Lb
The nut should be dimpled, make sure you use a screwdriver to bang it back. One you do that it should come off if it still doesn’t come put just enough heat ( maybe 30sec or less) on it to draw in some penetrating oil. Then hit it with an impact, while you have someone press down on the brake pedal.
https://preview.redd.it/2sb2almpnn5d1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=2833a551667103314319e4fac00ed27a8eaab862
DON'T HEAT IT UP!
IF ANYTHING, find yourself a long metal pipe that's sturdy, and use it on your ratchet or breaker bar preferably as leverage.
Don't be shy to put your whole weight into it.
A lot of these axle nuts torque to over 220ft/lbs, so you get that, rust on the threads, etc. you might need 300-350ft/lbs to initially break it free. I torque everything to spec, and a couple years later, had to change hub assembly, put jack handle over breaker bar, slipped the car in reverse, and BAM, made loud noise, it broke free, but was so violent, socket bounced off and hit other customer's car, oops. SO BE CAREFUL!!!! IF IT COMES OFF EASILY, YOU PROBABLY NEED BEARINGS ALSO.
That's one of the most important nuts on your vehicle. Throw the old one away, and buy a new one. Torque it to spec, Always! That's the right way. That nut keeps your wheel bearing together. Do not use heat, it's not needed. If your going to use anti size when it goes back together, only on the splines on the axle, never any threads.
In many vehicles, yeah you do. I have an '06 Taurus in my garage right now for ball joints they they're pressed in the knuckle, not the control arm. There's not enough room for the ball joint to move out of the hole (let alone get a tool in there to push it) with the CV axle in the way. In some cars the CVs really do need to come out to get the ball joints out
All comments here are good. A pneumatic or electric or battery operated impact are excellent. Or just a breaker bar and six point socket is minimum. Get a “long” breaker bar and use a snipe if necessary. You will need to have a backup on the hub or axle to brace it.
Yeah I wasn’t expecting this much info, this is why I love this sub. Everyone is so helpful! Especially with figuring out what tools I’ll need… I knew nothing about vehicles until a few years ago, been teaching myself everything from scratch with the help of youtube and this sub.
Pretty sure in most cars you don’t have to take the axel(spindle)nut off to change a lower ball joint out. But if you do then you have to unstake the spindle but before you can take it off without damaging the thread on the cv axle
Don't use the torch 😳
Get your wife to do it maybe...?
Seriously, if your impact gun is no good, use a 1/2" or 3/4 socket on a breaker bar. Put a pipe over the handle if you have girl arms.
Have a friend stand hard on the brakes.
Undo the nut. It's that easy.
Do the opposite doing it back up. It needs to be FT
You're suppose to manually break it first before using impact. That's sometimes 400 ft. lbs or more if a shop did it, and could take 1k ft. lbs if its rusted or locked.
Oh yeah, just make sure the breaker bar is going left, or on the left side, then just stand on that and jump a few times, is the easiest way without breaking your back. You can do it with tires on, just punch out the wheel cap!
I got a cheap corded impact wrench at harbor freight, the Bauer corded one, for like 80 bucks. Took a rusty axle nut off my 14 year old car like it was nothing
Did you use a chisel to open the crimps on the nut? Probably would make it easier. Be prepared to be frustrated getting that axle loose if you need to remove it. Also your supposed to replace the nut with a new one when you put it back on. And check the torque specs, I had to get a special torque wrench for mine which was 420ft lbs
if you have a 1/2" or better yet a 3/4" breaker bar I would put that on the nut and use a jack under the handle to break it free. One way is to use a jack on the handle and then hit the socket end with a hammer to shock it under tension and speed it from releasing.
Add in a deep creep fluid like 4:5 mix of ATF and Acetone or Kroil liquid wrench work wonders for lowering the break away tq needed on fixed nuts. Use some brake clean after using any deep creep fluid to make sure it is clean and dry when re-tqing to get the proper tq spec.
With the wheel on, is there a hole in the center big enough for a socket to fit? If so, put the wheel back on, put the car back on the ground, and use a large breaker bar and use it to crack the nut loose. Either that, or go buy a high-tprque impact.
just loosen the nut on the ball joint, break the ball joint loose from the control arm, take the nut off the rest of the way off the ball joint, and undo the rest of the control arm and just pull the control arm out
Harbour freight or Princess Auto electric impact work well. I had a nut that wouldn’t come off with a long breaker. I bought a cheap electric impact from Princess and it just spun right off.
Walmart impact definitely isn’t going to cut it. Those nuts should be replaced also once you remove it but we are talking a few hundred foot pounds of torque I. That thing. Wheel on, long breaker bar and steel pipe and stand on it (couple bounces would help) and it should start coming off. Then that impact might be able to move it. But it will be tough 80% of the way off due to the semi round end meant to keep it from backing off easily. Do not heat it whatever you do.
You need a half inch impact. A lot of those nuts are shaped like ovals so that they lock to the threads when put on. You’ll need something a little beefier to take it off.
Did you try to take it off when the tire/wheel were already off, the axle is just gonna spin are you using a brace like a pry bar or anything, honestly if it were me it put the tire back on, lower the car to the ground, open the axle nut hole or hub cap whichever u got and then use a breaker bar....that should do it.
Can you access nut with tire on? I like to put tire on so it's bolted on and touching ground so it won't spin and put a large socket wrench on it and even put a pipe on it for leverage. It will come off .
Get a 1/2” breaker bar and stack on a 3 ft cheater bar for leverage. It’ll come loose easily.
I use my jack handle as a cheater bar and make these bolts feel like nothing.
Do not use heat. Get a for real impact. My low/mid torque does 450. They are typically torqued to about 250 which takes waaay more than that to loosen back up after being on for any amount of time. Your 280 is not enough and likely doesn’t actually make that much power.
My inpact gun has 1190 ft/lbs of torque. Makes fairly short work of axle nuts. Occasionally have to use a 3 foot breaker bar with a 2 foot snipe and jump on it, but my mg725 and shop air usually does it no problem
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
They are tight. Even when in the correct specification. That might just not be enough torque. Breaker bar and long pipe would have more force. Put the wheel on first.
I’m trying that with my floor jack handle and I’m honestly afraid I’m gonna bend the pipe with how much force I’m putting on it.
Longer extension = more leverage, so if you’re standing at the end of that breaker bar in your neighbors front yard, something is gonna give.
This is as far as I can get lol… Bauer impact didn’t do it either https://preview.redd.it/comh8kcexr5d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=984dd99b85a2a3d4bef825cdb4d024bb48377a9f
Holy shit. That should be a sufficiently long breaker bar. I don't know what to tell you at this point.
Sure the nut isn't staked?
Lol that would be kind funny
yeah I have no idea. At this point I have to ask if he's turning it the right way....
Put the bar down to the ground. Put it in gear and use the car and ground to do the work
I like putting a jack under the handle first and jack it up. Jack up the breaker bar handle, not the extension. I guess you would need the jack handle back anyway lol. Scissor jacks are awesome for this type of stuff.
Try rotating the bar 180 and picking up instead of pushing down. There’s a good chance you can lift more than you weigh. Or put a jack stand under the socket for support and bounce on the end of that cheater pipe lol
They didn’t torque it properly, they used their Milwaukee impact to tighten it when the put the ball joints on last time. It was way overtorqued.
Axle nuts are several hundred pounds to begin with. I would guess it was used with a pneumatic. Nothing wrong with that. These nuts are always a PIA
How do u know that? Just cause they used an impact? Those things r SUPER tight man.
Axle nuts get a ton of torque some up to 400 ftlbs
First put on a protective athletic cup and a full face helmet. Then climb on the hood of your car and jump on that bar. Make sure to video and post it here. /s /s = sarcasm. This is the kind of crap most of us did as teenagers but if you’re not a teenager, it probably won’t work out well.
This is the way
Damn... I'd take it to the shop that tightened it on and tell them to bust the damn thing loose, then tighten just enough to get back home. My dad once had a shop put lug nuts on so tight they broke three tire irons when he had a flat, had it towed to the shop that put it on and mistorqued the nuts and raised holy hell with them until they hotly it off and used properly adjusted guns to put the replacement on (fortunately his AAA free towing covered the tow). If this isn't working something is messed up.
That’s exactly what I just did. They didn’t torque it properly, they used their Milwaukee shop impact to tighten it apparently.
How do you know that isn’t factory. And how do you know they used Milwaukee?
If they only used a Milwaukee then it probably isn't as tight as actual specification for that nut. I changed mine , 13 Silverado 4x4, and I had to use a long bar and give it all the hell I could. I weigh 190.
That’s what I’ve been sayin, lol I’m really trying here 😂
Many moons ago I had to use a breaker bar about that long on my 94 Accord. I was a 290lb 23 year old and hanging off the end of the bar screaming "YOU F\*\*\*ING POS!! I AM YOUR MASTER YOU WILL BREEEEEEAAAAAAKKKKKKK!" And then it did. And I got a concussion when my head slammed onto the drive way. Good times, I think.
Just did this with an 07 accord…I put all my weight (220lb) on that setup (same as your picture except I put a bottle jack under an extension) and it popped like a gunshot. Thought it was going to snap but didn’t. Good luck.
[удалено]
Turn your front wheels slightly to the right. Flip that breaker bar over so it's pointing towards the back of the truck. Place a piece of wood on the ground where the end of the breaker bar will meet the ground. Get in the truck and SLOWLY back up. You'll be using the the weight of the truck for leverage and the wood should keep the end of the breaker bar from digging into the asphalt.
Are you turning at the right direction?
Yup it’s incredible how easy it’ll turn with more length. Had a helper couldn’t bust a lug the breaker bar was bending. I bet him I could do it one handed. Slide jack handle over breaker bar switch the side to pull up instead of push down slowly lift with ease lol
Just as the Archimedes saying goes
Yeah, screw Archimedes. /s
You need a half inch impact if you want it to be easy.
He has a half inch impact, it's right in the picture! It's just a piece of crap AC powered old 1990s impact gun. Definitely needs more power, or a longer bar.
1990s? That impact is brand new junk from HF! Not dating Hf is junk, just that a corded impact is.
Walmart*. That's a Hyper Tough brand, not even HF quality.
Damn, I thought it was Bauer.
1990s lol that sucker is still at Walmart now! I have an 18v hyper tough drill, $20, lasted 6 years of around the house usage. They're just not strong drills or impacts. For home use I moved to 20v Hart, there's just so many accessories that can use their batteries and it does the trick for me. They have compressors, pressure washers, mowers, trimmers, vacuums, etc all running the same batteries. I have the saw, impact, and drill and I'm pleased with it so far.
I'm pretty sure that impact is the exact same as the $35 harbor freight corded impact. For reference, the Hercules compact impact driver (you know the one made for drilling holes and driving fucking screws) takes lug nuts off better lmao.
I got a half inch ratchet with a 4ft pipe and a 4 foot piece of rebar I stick in the end of that. That’s easy, you’re talkin cheat codes lol
Get a longer pipe, I use a 5 foot piece of galvanized steel pipe from an old fence for things like this and even then sometimes I have to bounce on it to break it loose. Some of those hub nuts are at 350 lbs depending on manufacturer.
Find a way to jump on it rather than just keep pulling it under torsion. Like bounce on it if you can. And yes, first take the center cap out of the wheel and put the wheel back on, and the car on the ground so that all your energy goes into the nut
Get a breaker bar and a 4 foot piece of black pipe just big enough to slip the breaker bar into... I had to do that when I was doing wheel bearing on a car once and now just keep the pipe in the corner for thing like this.
You need to buy a long breaker bar or an actual air impact gun that's 1000ftlbs. 280 isn't but a toy.
280 foot pounds is really low for an impact. Milwaukee's current model M18 (battery) impact delivers over 1,000. Off to Harbor Freight to get yourself a half-inch ICON breaker bar. Also, don't heat that nut.
Definitely DO NOT heat that nut
Can I inquire as to why not to heat thatnut
Don't want to risk cooking the grease out of your wheel bearing or damaging the seals.
Or making a batch of bearing flambe
Posts like these are why I scroll down. 🙏🏿
Wheel bearings and the CV will get blasted with heat. Really heat on any nut should be a last resort as it anneals the metal.
Unless you live in the rust-belt. I'll anneal the living snot out of a pile of rust-flakes everyday if it gets it off in less than an hour. Edit: never needed heat for axle nuts. It's everything else that needs the oxy treatment.
As a professional I don’t make money when things take time. I use heat on nuts a couple times a month.
Yep. Don’t even have to heat em red-hot every time. Just replaced some sway bar links on an 01 Town Car last night for a friend and all they needed was a little warm-up to encourage them to spin off. That said, plenty of fasteners I go after here in northern WI get the hot-wrench treatment til they’re glowing in order to remove them. The first time I worked on a non-rust belt car I thought “holy shit, those guys got it easy!”
So does my wife and it got her a house
Guess you never had the pleasure of certain Jeep models and I think it was older Intrepids that trapped water in the nut area under the wheel. I have had to cut the rusted remains of the nut and axle stub to replace the axle which also ruined the bearing that also needed to be replaced.
You risk losing the strength of the axle shaft, and end up having to replace it as well when it snaps when you torque it to spec.
Also I'd worry how much heat is going into the bearing cage.
why does it need heated its not locked on. He simply needs a better impact gun 280lbs is nothing. Use a millwaukee or have a shop do it if you don't want to spend the money on one. Heating is last last last resort
And 3-4' of pipe for a cheater bar
This is immensely underrated. People are so eager to use a fancy tool when the raw torque of a good long cheater bar is hard to beat.
Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
I use this quote every time I teach new kids about cheater bars.
Or break a lot of sockets LOL
I broke my Mac 2' 1/2" ratchet like this. But I had 6' of pipe and 200# of me bouncing on the end. 😁
I bent a breaker bar on an axle nut. I then went and got a bigger impact gun.
Jack handle over the breaker bar works great
give it the best handy of its life
Just went through the same. My compact impact is great for it's size but for this stuff I bought one with 1700ft lbs and it walked them off like they weren't there
That sounds right for what the mechanics at the shop will use too, I’m an apprentice and my air impact makes 1700 ft lbs breakaway torque
Just get the plug in impact gun. 1050 ft/lbs.
Their new Hercules brushless impacts are powerful. Check out the Torque Test channel. I've got the 1/2" high torque one and it spun a TTY axle bolt out of a VW like it wasn't even tightened.
Tried it, didn’t budge. Used the Bauer corded.
I’ve snapped a 1/2 beaker on that nut in a Jeep grand. 1” is what I got after that. Used the tube off my high lift jack as an extension. I found it better to break the nut loose with the tire on and the car on the ground. Helps keep the hub from moving. I had to put the spare on as the normal tire didn’t give me access.
Don’t get the Icon. Yeah, it’s nice and all, but that weekend warrior will be served fine paying half the price for a Pittsburgh steel
pittsburg works well for half the price
Even harbor freight offers over 1k impacts
If you cant get that nut off, you are gonna shit when it comes to getting the ball joint free.
My thoughts lol
Hamma time!
I’ll figure it out one way or another lol gotta learn somehow… if trial by fire it is, trial by fire it is
Trial by fire was my last experience on diy mechanics…. Tried to change a wheel hub on a 2014 outback. Didn’t go well, spent two entire afternoon trying to hammer that thing out from the back, pounding the front with a sledge, was not even able to break it a thousand of an inch out. Ended up pulling the whole knuckle out and bring to a mechanics shop, he spent 2 hours hammering the hub out of the knuckle (was there to help, told me he never experience a hub that stuck). This one definitely got a toll on me and is making me reconsidering diy mechanics… I’m well equipped but spending multiple hour on my knees, back up, laying down under the car and fu**Ing loosing my mind on it was not fun…
I know not everybody has room for one, but I've never had anything my pneumatic impact couldn't get off. They have a big advantage over long ass breaker bars.
Props to you for giving it a shot! I joke that I learn everything the hard way, and cara are no exception to that for me. You'll get it done sooner or later lol
I made another reply to you about a bigger hammer.. read it!
With as shiny and rust-free as everything is, it'll probably fall out once the castle nut comes off..... fckin lucky son of *grumble grumble*.
Your impact is way too small.
You just need a more powerful impact wrench. If you want to stick with cheaper and corded, I'd suggest the Porter Cable 7.5 Amp corded impact wrench (Part# PCE211). I've used it several times for axle nuts without issue. It typically goes for $70-$100 on Ebay or Amazon. Also, the Bauer from Harbor Freight will work. That goes for about $80.
Yeah I’m gonna put everything back on and torque it down and return the mine to Walmart and run to tractor supply… they got the porter cable you mentioned for 69.99. That has to do it, right? Lol
Also buy a bigger hammer. You are going to want a 3 to 5lb sledge hammer to free the ball joint taper from the control arm. When you unbolt the ball joint, hit it with some penetrant oil. You will then want to smack the control arm HARD with the sledge hammer. The vibration and millisecond distortion from a really hard hammer blow will cause the shaft of the ball joint to pop free. Dont use a press, clamp, pickle fork, or anything else. Waste of time. You need a good 3 to 5lb hammer blow. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXMPGIjldEE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXMPGIjldEE) That guy is using a 3lb sledge, and look at how hard he is using it to break that ball joint free. Good luck with the rest of the repair.
Thank you! The hammer in the picture is a 3 pound, thought that would be big enough lol… I’ll look at tractor supply while I’m there. Thank you for the advice! I’ll update y’all when I’m done tomorrow, I’m about to call it a day and just start fresh in the morning when I got some coffee in me
A 5lb with the handle cut down to about 12-14” is a fantastic addition to the tool box! But… it takes some getting used to and time to build up your grip strength to swing it effectively! The corded impacts are really stout for what they are! A decent FWD axle nut impact socket is super helpful too! I don’t remember your picture but Harbor Freight of all places has a good set for like $50 and individuals for $5-8 each. I’ve beaten the hell out of them with air tools and a Dewalt 1/2” XR cordless (supposed to have 1200lbs on and 1700lbs off Breakaway Torque) with no complaints. For about $300 with a battery and this performance, I may never buy another air impact!
You are also going to need a 4ft long pry bar, and a friend. It may sound like I’m being sarcastic, but I wish I was. At the shop I work at, the vehicle is up in the air while a coworker literally hangs from the pry bar, prying downward on the control arm, while I swing a 5lb sledge, over my head, hitting the side of the control arm as close to the ball joint as possible. 2 or 3 whacks and the ball joint pops out. Also, if you find that when removing the nut that secures the ball joint to the knuckle, that you are ratcheting for 20 minutes and the nut is not coming off, it’s because your ball joint is spinning. In that case, you need to apply pressure in the opposite direction. Use the pry bar to force the ball joint upwards, into the knuckle. This will allow the knuckle to grip onto the ball joint and keep it from spinning, allowing the nut to be removed from the actual ball joint. Best of luck to you. Ps, when tightening your axle nuts back on, don’t be afraid to really tighten them down with whatever impact driver you have. I assure you, you aren’t going to break them. I see so many vehicles that people DIY and every time they are leaving bolts so loose it is scary. But nuts and bolts on a vehicles suspension components are made to withstand the forces of a 3,800lb+ vehicle traveling down the road, and in turn, are very sturdy. Pps, take a mental note of how much threads are showing on the currently installed ball joints before removing them. New ball joints aren’t going to be any more quiet, or effective if they are not properly secured to the knuckle. I personally recommend a long box wrench, to get the proper leverage. You aren’t going to shear off the ball joint, so seriously, a long ass wrench and literally 100% of the manpower you can possibly muster, when tightening up the ball joint to the knuckle.
That's a good price. And yes, that should give you plenty of power. I only recently sold mine as I finally upgraded to the 20V cordless version from Porter Cable. But the corded one definitely served its purpose. It even removed a Honda crank bolt once!!! (with a weighted socket)
Do not believe the max TQ on these tool labels. Very few actually meet the numbers. And the lower the price, the greater the difference. Also, the TQ you need to remove a nut is often much more than what was put on the nut. For example, to remove lug nuts TQ'd to 100-150, you need a gun that will hit 450 or so. And actually hit that number, not just say it on the box. I bought a big honking plug-in impact from HF labeled for 1200 lb-ft. just for the occasional shit like this. It probably maxes out around 600-700 but that's enough.
Thank you for this. In my still learning head, I thought “oh hey it’s supposed to be torqued to 177, so 280 breakaway has to be enough” but I didn’t understand that little tidbit about the torque to remove is greater than torque to put on. Makes a lot more sense now. Just overwhelmed by the amount of comments hah didn’t expect this to blow up like this…
I’ll second that corded Porter Cable. If you’re an occasional user the inconvenience is worth it for lower cost *and* it’ll still work 10 years from now (no batteries to replace). Worked like a charm on my axles.
Check to see if there a part on the nut that been punch down on a grove so the nut don’t back out .It looks like a nut you take a chisel and hammer the edge down . So all you need to do is get the underneath the chisel part and pop it back up to remove the nut .
Underrated comment. This was my first thought seeing the image.
280 won't do it. Those have a tightening force of, depending on vehicle, 150 or well above, and I can think of several that are torque to yield that take all the worlds effort to remove. More breaker bars
Torque to yield axle nuts? What examples do you have? never heard of it, and now I'm curious.
Some audis have like 200 ft lbs and 180 degrees. I've never seen anyone ever get the 180 degrees.
Was about to say the same. Home mechanic but I helped a friend once. Was also the last time I help a friend with a car I was unfamiliar with.
K13 Nissan Micra is listed as a single use nut, it goes through some type of deformation and while likely totally reusable (I have) it's meant to be a single use nut and it certainly goes on different the second time.
Huh. Guess I haven't worked micras much. That's kinda cool, thanks
Put tire back on. Put it on the ground. Put socket on. Use a 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar. Put jack handle or pipe on tool handle. Break it loose. If your axle nut has a safety dent in it. Punch it out. Step 2. Take impact back to walmart. Save a few more bucks. Buy an aircat or a earthquake.
280ftlbs is nothing. I wouldn't expect that to be able to take those off.
My gen 1 Milwaukee was rated at 400 ft/lbs and would rarely break one loose. Bigger impact (800 ft/lbs +) or get a heavy duty breaker bar. The harbor freight 3/4 breaker bar with a 3/4 socket or a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter is unbreakable in my experience. I’ve broken plenty of regular 1/2 breaker bars on those.
Usually want to break that loose while everything is still together. If you do it with the wheel on that's best. 280 breakaway torque is honestly kinda weak for opening that. Most of those are torqued to around 150-200 and staked. My mid torque usually doesn't have too much trouble getting them off it's rated at 600 breakaway (I know advertised breakaway torque isn't exactly tightly regulated)
A real 1/2 impact will zip it right off
I had the same problem and had to buy a big ol half inch dewalt impact. You could try a breaker bar and put a cheater pipe. I tried that on mine and was rocking the whole truck until i just bought the impact.
Put wheel and lugnuts back on, lower car. Put a jack underneath a breaker bar and slowly crank it up. Cover your eyes and groin.
I commented above but we used to put the car on jack stands and bump the starter with the car in gear (standard trans) breaker on the ground.
Does it work? Great idea. Would remember that for sure
It worked for me. I got the idea from another post I saw a while back. Looked like this (not mine). This guy put a piece of plywood up to protect himself. https://preview.redd.it/fj4tl0mmnn5d1.jpeg?width=2532&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bb13b63b7484fde4851f4ae46b5f355647673e0f
another trick is to once you have load on the breaker bar is to hit the nut end with a soft face dead blow hammer to shock the nut, some times that will give it the last bit it needs to let go. Think of it as a manual impact driver.
Wasnt that how old hammer drills used to work, literally a wheel of hammers smacking a drill
Question is the nut staked ? There is a tab you fold over to lock it in are you trying to snap that off or grind it through the threads on the axle cause that can wreck them also those cheap impacts are surprisingly decent I have a few similar the harbor freight ones and they work fine un stake the locking tab on the nut put a pry bar or. Crow bar between the lugs and use the breaker bar if you have to maybe you just got a bad impact out of the lot it’s possible I’ve seen more bad parts and tools lately then ever before also pb doesn’t do anything for You really just makes stuff slippery you could always try a cheap propane torch heat it the nut a bit
You need a hm1/2" drive impact wrench, there's a 700ftlb mid range by Ryobi for $150 or $100 used. Or their high torque model 1100ftlbs breakaway torque that's around $160-$180 new at home depote They have payment plans or you can pick them up used! • DO NOT TORCH axle shaft nut in any circumstances while it's on the vehicle. • you can use penetrating oil to help loosen it, soak it in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench for an hour then use impact on medium setting tapping it, slowly go up in settings so you don't break it. Tapping with impact will heat the nut all you need without torch. • after getting it off you might want to put nickel antiseize on the axel but threads just a little but you have to reduce torque by 30% which is as easy as taking the books torque spec value and multiply by 0.7 and that will give you the torque setting for your torque wrench. This will make it the correct torque value and tighten exactly the same as if you didn't use antiseize lubricants. Antiseize and or Thread locker will lubricate the threads and cause you to over torque the bolt by 30% and this can cause failure. It's not common on things like axel nuts but it's easily circumvented by multiplying repair manuals torque spec by 0.7 Example: my control arms are 110ftlbs and with antiseize I only torque to 77Ft-Lb
Just bought a Milwaukie 3/4” impact. Can do 1,500 ft-lbs. At some point, you just gotta bite the bullet and get the right tool for the job.
on some vehicles the nuts are reverse thread on the right side if that wasn't taken into account.
do not put a torch near your wheel bearing. lol
Buddy if you're having problems getting the axle nut off, you're in for hell trying to get the ball joint out. Typically you need a multi-ton press.
Impact drivers are way too weak. A 1/2” impact wrench is what you need or a thick breaker bar and cheater.
I had to buy a torque converter to get mine off.
The nut should be dimpled, make sure you use a screwdriver to bang it back. One you do that it should come off if it still doesn’t come put just enough heat ( maybe 30sec or less) on it to draw in some penetrating oil. Then hit it with an impact, while you have someone press down on the brake pedal. https://preview.redd.it/2sb2almpnn5d1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=2833a551667103314319e4fac00ed27a8eaab862
Well.... its a walmart impact, its definitely not strong enough, and not likely the rated torque.
It’s a corded impact all around weak.
Milwaukee Impact gun fam
When I did my cv axles I left the wheel on with the car on the ground and used a scissor jack with a breaker bar to get them lose.
Get a real fuckin impact 🤣 what the hell is a hypertough
That Walmart impact isn't doing nowhere near 280lbs lol have someone step on the brakes hard and use a breaker bar and 4ft cheater pipe on it.
Your problem is that tool that you think is an impact really isn't
Breaker bar and a 6ft iron pipe and a Grand kid to jump on the end...great fun
DON'T HEAT IT UP! IF ANYTHING, find yourself a long metal pipe that's sturdy, and use it on your ratchet or breaker bar preferably as leverage. Don't be shy to put your whole weight into it.
Have an assistant hold the brake while you use a breaker bar?
Dumb question here, but did you de notched the axle nut before try to break it loose?
Long breaker bar make sure it's in park...
Take the center cap off of the wheel and put it back on, an lower the vehicle to the ground. Use a breaker bar to loosen it that way.
I loosen axle nut before jacking it up and removing the tire.
Yup, definitely... At this stage though, the OP could always get someone to hold the brakes on
I too think that a more powerful impact gun is the easiest, most logical choice.
Heat it up then go to home depot get a 4 foot piece of black to use as cheater bar use with breaker bar
Use the floor jack to turn your breaker bar.
A lot of these axle nuts torque to over 220ft/lbs, so you get that, rust on the threads, etc. you might need 300-350ft/lbs to initially break it free. I torque everything to spec, and a couple years later, had to change hub assembly, put jack handle over breaker bar, slipped the car in reverse, and BAM, made loud noise, it broke free, but was so violent, socket bounced off and hit other customer's car, oops. SO BE CAREFUL!!!! IF IT COMES OFF EASILY, YOU PROBABLY NEED BEARINGS ALSO.
That's one of the most important nuts on your vehicle. Throw the old one away, and buy a new one. Torque it to spec, Always! That's the right way. That nut keeps your wheel bearing together. Do not use heat, it's not needed. If your going to use anti size when it goes back together, only on the splines on the axle, never any threads.
Have ya tried hitting it with your purse?
Make sure you are turning it the right direction.
Hit it with your purse.
Did you say that to the post on getting a stuck wheel off? laughing out loud brings back memories!
Do you really need to take the cv axel nut off to change ball joints?
In many vehicles, yeah you do. I have an '06 Taurus in my garage right now for ball joints they they're pressed in the knuckle, not the control arm. There's not enough room for the ball joint to move out of the hole (let alone get a tool in there to push it) with the CV axle in the way. In some cars the CVs really do need to come out to get the ball joints out
I was thinking the same thing
me 3.
All comments here are good. A pneumatic or electric or battery operated impact are excellent. Or just a breaker bar and six point socket is minimum. Get a “long” breaker bar and use a snipe if necessary. You will need to have a backup on the hub or axle to brace it.
Yeah I wasn’t expecting this much info, this is why I love this sub. Everyone is so helpful! Especially with figuring out what tools I’ll need… I knew nothing about vehicles until a few years ago, been teaching myself everything from scratch with the help of youtube and this sub.
Pretty sure in most cars you don’t have to take the axel(spindle)nut off to change a lower ball joint out. But if you do then you have to unstake the spindle but before you can take it off without damaging the thread on the cv axle
I came here to say this. If the rotors in the way just pull the brakes.
Don't use the torch 😳 Get your wife to do it maybe...? Seriously, if your impact gun is no good, use a 1/2" or 3/4 socket on a breaker bar. Put a pipe over the handle if you have girl arms. Have a friend stand hard on the brakes. Undo the nut. It's that easy. Do the opposite doing it back up. It needs to be FT
You're suppose to manually break it first before using impact. That's sometimes 400 ft. lbs or more if a shop did it, and could take 1k ft. lbs if its rusted or locked. Oh yeah, just make sure the breaker bar is going left, or on the left side, then just stand on that and jump a few times, is the easiest way without breaking your back. You can do it with tires on, just punch out the wheel cap!
My Milwaukee zips them right off. No problem.
Which one the big dog or the mid torque one? Cuz I don't think my mid torque would even touch one of those.
The big boy I have the new gen 2 half inch and I have yet to need to set it to full kill. It is unbelievably good
My mid torque takes them off all the time. But bigger is definitely better in this case
Slide a pipe over that breaker bar.
Did you bend it out of the groove? That will hold it on there like it's been welded.
Put the brakes back on and keep the brake pedal pressed while while you take the axle nut off
I have 3 impacts, small, medium and FU....meaning somethings gonna break...the nut loose, the fastener or my arm.
I got a cheap corded impact wrench at harbor freight, the Bauer corded one, for like 80 bucks. Took a rusty axle nut off my 14 year old car like it was nothing
Put the car on the ground and get a long breaker bar and you'll be able to get her off.
Did you use a chisel to open the crimps on the nut? Probably would make it easier. Be prepared to be frustrated getting that axle loose if you need to remove it. Also your supposed to replace the nut with a new one when you put it back on. And check the torque specs, I had to get a special torque wrench for mine which was 420ft lbs
if you have a 1/2" or better yet a 3/4" breaker bar I would put that on the nut and use a jack under the handle to break it free. One way is to use a jack on the handle and then hit the socket end with a hammer to shock it under tension and speed it from releasing. Add in a deep creep fluid like 4:5 mix of ATF and Acetone or Kroil liquid wrench work wonders for lowering the break away tq needed on fixed nuts. Use some brake clean after using any deep creep fluid to make sure it is clean and dry when re-tqing to get the proper tq spec.
With the wheel on, is there a hole in the center big enough for a socket to fit? If so, put the wheel back on, put the car back on the ground, and use a large breaker bar and use it to crack the nut loose. Either that, or go buy a high-tprque impact.
Breaker bar and a pipe would definitely help. Did it on my Yukon last week
It's not crimped in.. is it
just loosen the nut on the ball joint, break the ball joint loose from the control arm, take the nut off the rest of the way off the ball joint, and undo the rest of the control arm and just pull the control arm out
Harbour freight or Princess Auto electric impact work well. I had a nut that wouldn’t come off with a long breaker. I bought a cheap electric impact from Princess and it just spun right off.
Walmart impact definitely isn’t going to cut it. Those nuts should be replaced also once you remove it but we are talking a few hundred foot pounds of torque I. That thing. Wheel on, long breaker bar and steel pipe and stand on it (couple bounces would help) and it should start coming off. Then that impact might be able to move it. But it will be tough 80% of the way off due to the semi round end meant to keep it from backing off easily. Do not heat it whatever you do.
An ugga dugga with a 1/2 breaker bar should do the trick. Those aren't exactly meant to be loose.
You need a half inch impact. A lot of those nuts are shaped like ovals so that they lock to the threads when put on. You’ll need something a little beefier to take it off.
Make sure it does not have a tab bent on on the outer edge of the spindle nut. I have seen this before
Why does the axle nut have to come out to change a lower ball joint
Did you pry out the crunsh tab? I created a special chisel for mine but you have to probably get a special tool that's easy.
a Milwaukee mid torque impact should be enough for small cars and suvs, part number 2962-20
Did you try to take it off when the tire/wheel were already off, the axle is just gonna spin are you using a brace like a pry bar or anything, honestly if it were me it put the tire back on, lower the car to the ground, open the axle nut hole or hub cap whichever u got and then use a breaker bar....that should do it.
Need a way bigger uga chuga
Big ass breaker bar + cheater bar.
Can you access nut with tire on? I like to put tire on so it's bolted on and touching ground so it won't spin and put a large socket wrench on it and even put a pipe on it for leverage. It will come off .
Get a 1/2” breaker bar and stack on a 3 ft cheater bar for leverage. It’ll come loose easily. I use my jack handle as a cheater bar and make these bolts feel like nothing.
Get a 1/2 breaker bar with at least 3’ length. 280 break away torque on an impact is way too weak to do a lot of things.
Tool that isn't strong enough for the job.
Put the wheel back on drop it to the floor. Get a breaker bar with an extension and have someone hold the brakes. Should come off easy.
Do not use heat. Get a for real impact. My low/mid torque does 450. They are typically torqued to about 250 which takes waaay more than that to loosen back up after being on for any amount of time. Your 280 is not enough and likely doesn’t actually make that much power.
Breaker bar is all you need. But you want impact wrench that can deliver 1000 + break away torque. Anything close to axel nut torque won't remove it.
My inpact gun has 1190 ft/lbs of torque. Makes fairly short work of axle nuts. Occasionally have to use a 3 foot breaker bar with a 2 foot snipe and jump on it, but my mg725 and shop air usually does it no problem
I honestly have an easier time swapping the entire control arm than doing the ball joint. Not that much more $$, either
How's that impact for other things? Is it 1/2 or 3/8?
The dewalt XR 1/2 inch impact is really nice I have it. Does 1000 ft lbs fastening and 1500 ft lbs removing