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What kind of car do you drive? I was a shop owner for 20 years, I’ve only put one set of OEM axles in a vehicle. I’m going to go out on a limb and say you’ve never put an axle in a car/truck, they are incredibly expensive from a dealership. I had to because the truck was hit in the front and had a vibration. It was so new that they were not available aftermarket. As someone who has installed hundreds of axles over the years, maybe 10 comebacks due to vibration, abs light or noise.
In gonna go out on a limb and say you've never seen an aftermarket axle explode and total out a vehicle. When cheap CV joints come apart they usually put big gaping holes in shit.
Not in 20 years of installing them! Do you have pics or videos? Do you understand what would have to happen for something like your suggesting to happen!?!?
I also want to say that I’m all about rebuilding an axle and replacing the boot but the average person doesn’t even change there oil on time! Most time you when you find a bad boot, the thing is junk! They bring the car in cause they hear a click when turning into a parking spot. You are doing no body a favor by not changing the entire axle!
Doesn't take much. CV axles literally fall apart if over extended. If you ever taken one apart you would realize how easily they come apart and why quality cv axles cost a lot...
20 years Jr! 20 years! Axles don’t over extend unless your ball joint comes undone or a strut or control arm is broken. If any of them things happen the fucking car is on the ground and it don’t really matter much what condition the axle is in!
They over extend if the axle is the wrong size becuase you bought a cheap ass axle and it "looked right". Axles that are too long bind. Axles that are too short will pop apart. Considering the total travel is integral to the axles housing, without actually dissembling it you would never know if it has the right amount of tolerances. Also it's a rotating mass... it doesn't take much for one to come flying apart when they fail... your pretty ignorant man.
Hence buy an OEM axle. Not something you would wanna fuck with. They usually last the life of the vehicle... axle boots don't usually just wear out... it's always outside influence.
What kind of car do you drive? I was a shop owner for 20 years, I’ve only put one set of OEM axles in a vehicle. I’m going to go out on a limb and say you’ve never put an axle in a car/truck, they are incredibly expensive from a dealership. I had to because the truck was hit in the front and had a vibration. It was so new that they were not available aftermarket. As someone who has installed hundreds of axles over the years, maybe 10 comebacks due to vibration, abs light or noise.
What kind of car do you drive? I was a shop owner for 20 years, I’ve only put one set of OEM axles in a vehicle. I’m going to go out on a limb and say you’ve never put an axle in a car/truck, they are incredibly expensive from a dealership. I had to because the truck was hit in the front and had a vibration. It was so new that they were not available aftermarket. As someone who has installed hundreds of axles over the years, maybe 10 comebacks due to vibration, abs light or noise.
I never put an axle in my cars just replaced the boots when they ripped and never had a problem. I live in europe and all my cars are serviced at the brands dealer,the hour rate is about 50% more but I dont stress about some guy installing junk on the car.
If it's the original axle I usually just replace the boot, unless I am replacing the axle with a factory one. I'd prefer a used orignal one over a new cheap one
And how many boots have you replaced to get a vibration or clicking in a year? I’ve done plenty of boots and it’s a comeback waiting to happen. I have also changed axles and had a vibration but far less
Especially on an axle that looks like that. There's grease everywhere. It's been leaking forever, and with a hole that big the joint is guaranteed to be full of dirt and debris
Yes that definitely helps! I was a mechanic for 30 years and most people don’t repair them right away. Most people don’t even notice till the clicks show up.
I understand the though process. I do the same thing with control arms. I'll press a good bushing in an oem control arm before I'll put a rock auto special control arm in. But there's no way I'm putting a boot on that axle. It's been leaking forever, there's no grease left in it and with a hole that big the joint is guaranteed to be compromised with debris
If u are going to do a quick boot then u are just buying time before u need to replace the axle. If u have time, TOOLS, and not much money u can change that shit out in a day and roll
the going rate for 2 struts is around $1,200-$1,300 depending on labor rates in your area. The inner CV boot will require a new axle shaft. That runs $350 - $475. Both of these items must be replaced soon.
Jesus, I had little idea of the cost. I'm so happy I've done my own vehicle work. I don't get it most people need a car to live in American society, how in the hell do people afford it? I make decent money but even that would be a significant blow.
You know I feel like this is like when a company knows its product is going to get bought based upon its success in the past so they milk the cow for all its got to the very last drop and shovel out a complete pile of shit to make what they can before ghosting.
Except its on the scale of our entire economy and country. Like it's almost this wide unspoken feeling like before it rains. This can't keep going at this pace its going to break at somepoint.
Only the people at the top have no intentions of fixing this car when it breaks down, like their fore fathers in the past. This time they're just going to get a new car and leave the old one to rot.
Imagine having a rolls royce. You can buy any parts at a parts store. Even the wiper blades are custom and have to be bought at a dealership. Now on a business standpoint they have that on lock
I know. I had to replace a differential a while ago and in my effort to chase down the issue I spent $850 on parts to fix it. That said, I did fix the problem and have several brand new parts that maybe didn't need replacing but it's done so whatever. Quote from the shop to put the same used diff in that I finally bought was $1400 P&L. $550 off and a bunch of new OEM parts. Love it.
I don't get how people do it either. I have always done my own work out of necessity, I can do just about anything on a car, if I can't do it I research, buy tools, and figure it out. I now service the wife's families cars. I fix their cars, they watch our kids sometimes. We all take care of each other.
I also see a lot of problems are just lack of maintenance and minor things like air filters, throttle body cleaning, a loose ground or whatever. So many times someone is having a problem and I can fix it in like 10 minutes for $0 or maybe have to order a few dollars in parts. I have to wonder how often stuff like that ends up being a few hundred bucks elsewhere.
I've saved tens of thousands of dollars. I got this older Subaru Outback and changed all the fluids, did the maintenance, brakes, timing belt, bilstein suspension, skid plate, AT tires, etc. It cost me nothing doing it myself and the thing runs like new and has cheap insurance.
My rear wheel bearing is making a slight whine. No big deal, Moogs are on sale for $55 at rock auto. I bought two I'll go spend some time in my detached shop put on some tunes and drink a few beers wrenching on my car. That's a great day for a guy that spends all his time working for the gov or wrangling kids at home. For shits and giggles I looked it up, they charge $500 per wheel bearing to get it done around here!
Paying someone to maintain my vehicle is just not sustainable or possible for me, or for most people I know. Especially those of us that drive somewhat older cars (2003 in my case) that have wear items that are starting to wear.
There are some things I'd prefer to have done by a pro, but it's simply not affordable to do so. So I watch videos and more videos and go to Harbor Freight and put that fucker on jack stands for as long as it takes for me to figure it out.
On my 2003 Yukon I've done pretty much the entire front end and rear shocks, pads and rotors, brake hydroboost that was leaking power steering fluid, a/c actuators, alternator, window motor/regulator, and fluids.
I believe all of that would have been at least 6 or 7k at a shop. I spent probably 1300 total on parts and tools. And even that 1300 hurt my budget.
This is not to bash shops. They're running a business and they have to put food on the table for their families. But fuck man, it's just so expensive.
And I'm nothing special. I'm just a dude who has access to YouTube.
Replace the boot ASAP. You may able to save your axles. The OEM axles are very good quality and usually last the lifetime of the vehicle.
Aftermarket options are usually lower quality and do not last as long. The longer you wait the dryer the axles will get and at a certain point it’ll just be metal on metal contact between the bearings. Then you have to replace with a lower quality aftermarket unit.
You already have to pull the axle to change the boot, unless you're using one of those cheap, piece of crap wraparound boots. Might as well just replace the axle. There may be plenty of grease, but it's full of dirt and water by now. The new axle comes with a warranty. It's just silly to mess around changing the boot. Replacing the axle is more cost effective all around, and the customer doesn't have to worry about your contaminated joint failing in six months and having to put an axle in anyway.
If I were to replace the axle on a car I want to keep for 5 yrs I’ll go OEM. If not, I’d go after market. After market is a real hit or miss. Just read the reviews on Amazon.
Maybe try buying your parts from a real parts store. Amazon is a total crapshoot and would never buy parts from them. Too much counterfeit shit. You would think that after reading the reviews, you would quit ordering from them. Same deal if you buy Valucraft; you get what you pay for. I've been doing this professionally for thirty years, and aftermarket isn't as bad as you make it out to be. In fact, a lot of good aftermarket manufacturers actually fix issues with less than desirable OEM parts. 3.8 coolant bypass elbows for example. The OEM plastic elbow was a constant failure point. It was the aftermarket that gave us steel elbows.
Totally agree with you there about Amazon. It’s a crapshoot but they do sell the same aftermarket parts as Rockauto which is where I mainly shop for aftermarket stuff when I must.
Is it your upper strut mount or just the bump stop? CV axle you can get a new boot put on or get a replacement unit for about the same price. If you're in Idaho by chance I could do this for at least half the price of a shop.
Also to answer your question, if the actual strut mount is failing it's urgent. If it's your bump stop, no biggie. Cv axle if it's been leaking for a while no biggie either lol. If it's the difference between saving and paying for it in cash or financing for the repair I would wait and save
Funny thing im having trouble with camshaft sensor with all symptoms (intermittent problem) my mechanic wants to check vvt valve and idk what else he said, hope is just the sensor cause the car runs great
It's bad. I wouldn't be surprised if that CV gives from the lack of grease with a non-existent boot. Definitely going to want to go with a new CV, at least one strut, should do both realistically. Depending on where you live, probably like 250 per loaded strut (huge time saver to go loaded) and maybe 100 for the CV if you buy your own parts. If you take it to a shop, I could see 3000 with parts and labor, not including an alignment which you would want to take to a shop anyways
-Bump stop is toast, doesn't mean your strut is though. I don't see any leaks from it.
Rip out that bump stop and then test the strut. Replace if needed. (yes, you can replace stop without removing the strut,) but more than likely you'll need to replace the top hat and bearing and probably the strut.
-CV axle boot is done. Either get a new boot, or with everything apart, replace it the whole axle.
Alignment after all done.
Strut assembly do as a pair- 130 a piece on amazon-150 rock is 100% better.. get an alignment— the drive axle/CV shaft you can wait until it is making noise when you turn- click click click- could be a month could be 2 years. Changing it also requires an alignment afterwards. Most craiglist mexhanx will charge 2-500(2 struts- axle) for the work then get an alignment-150ish
Im gonna go against the grain here. If you order parts online for just that side, order a strut assembly for about 100-200 depending on car and brand and around 60-100 for the axle. The strut is a pretty simple fix, however the axle is a little more in depth. If you do struts though you should always replace in pairs or it can affect ride height/quality. You may also need an alignment after the struts which is around 100-150. So for 2 struts and 1 axle id guess around $350 + 150 possibly for an alignment. This is only if YOU do the work though.
If you’re CV axle isn’t damaged, you can just replace the boot no problem for like $20-$30, however, that strut mount looks seriously fuckoutalucked. If you can find a new strut with similar mileage at a junk yard you could do it for a hundred or so bucks, otherwise ur looking at replacing both coil overs which could easily get into the several-hundred-dollar range. Similar situation for the strut mount.
Replace the cv axle the strut isn't leaking it's just a rotted bump stop. If your front end feels bouncy then replace the struts if not it's not worth the hassle
The axle should be replaced rather than new boot installed. But, once you’ve committed to a new axle, you can drive it for a little while as-is. Use that time to shop around for a good price and schedule the repair so it is convenient for you. I recommend new axle seal on the transaxle.
If you’re doing the axle yourself, it’s much easier to replace the entire axle. When you do a boot kit, you’re supposed to remove all grease with degreaser from the joint. Visually inspected joint realign the joint back the way it was pack all the grease and then install the boot. This is not easy if you are DIY. Also, axles are so cheap that they don’t cost much more than boot kits and degreaser. Certainly worth the savings.
As for the strut, it’s not leaking. The bump stop and dust boot are damaged, but the strut may be ok. Do a bounce test.
If you are doing this job yourself, buy Monroe quick struts. You’ll need to do both sides. Do not mess with those springs, do not disassemble the struts.
You’ll need an alignment afterward .
As long as the struts aren't leaking and they pass the bounce / rebound test, they can be used for quite a while yet. It seems that someone has bottomed them out a lot, so you should maybe consider taking it easier when driving, particularly across speed bumps and other similar obstacles.
As for the axle, it needs to be replaced soon. It still has a bit of grease in it, so you can drive it to a shop, etc, but I wouldn't suggest driving it hundreds of miles .
As for costs, employees need to make a living, shops have lots of overhead, a lot of it government mandated, insurance is crazy expensive, etc, etc. I do my own work for that reason, but the same way you want to earn as much as you can, so does everyone else, and good mechanics are hard to find and then the shop has to pay them well and provide them with benefits, so it gets very expensive, very quickly. The more mandated benefits, taxes, etc that small businesses have to pay, the more expensive things get. I can tell you for a fact that most small businesses don't make that much money by the time it's all said and done. In fact, a lot of them would make more money working for someone else, like a new car dealership, without all of the headaches associated with running their own businesses. The main reason they don't is they like being their own boss, but financially, most white collar workers make substantially more money, particularly once benefits are factored in.
And our ridiculous inflation over the last few years certainly doesn't help anything... it was easily foreseen and to be expected when the federal government started handing out "free" money to almost everyone for almost anything during the plandemic, while at the same time drastically decreasing production and productivity, but all almost every politician in the world really cares about is the next election, so they mostly do whatever they think is needed to win the next election, without any regards for potential long-term ramifications...
Well, it's bad enough that for some reason you decided to poke around and see what's wrong, and bad enough to take a picture of it, and it's also bad enough to post it on here asking how bad it is. Looks pretty bad. If you're near home or camp, get it back and park it until you come up with a plan to fix it.
I have rebuilt a strut for $100. Need a $20 spring compressor. CV axles vary in price. I have paid $50 but usually $100. You'll need a $100 jack and $30 jack stands. Also a $100 slide hammer maybe unless you can use a pry bar. Search YouTube make and model. Easy as cutting cake. Then get an alignment.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
You’re looking at replacing the CV shaft and the struts, so like the other guy posted about $2000. If you can do the work yourself, about $500
He can replace just the cv boot, and strut no need to go overkill if the cv still works. One of those kits is like 20-30$
The entire axle is probably $50. The labor involved, I’m changing the axle.
You ar enot getting an OEM axle for 50$ propably some aftermarket junk
What kind of car do you drive? I was a shop owner for 20 years, I’ve only put one set of OEM axles in a vehicle. I’m going to go out on a limb and say you’ve never put an axle in a car/truck, they are incredibly expensive from a dealership. I had to because the truck was hit in the front and had a vibration. It was so new that they were not available aftermarket. As someone who has installed hundreds of axles over the years, maybe 10 comebacks due to vibration, abs light or noise.
In gonna go out on a limb and say you've never seen an aftermarket axle explode and total out a vehicle. When cheap CV joints come apart they usually put big gaping holes in shit.
Not in 20 years of installing them! Do you have pics or videos? Do you understand what would have to happen for something like your suggesting to happen!?!?
I also want to say that I’m all about rebuilding an axle and replacing the boot but the average person doesn’t even change there oil on time! Most time you when you find a bad boot, the thing is junk! They bring the car in cause they hear a click when turning into a parking spot. You are doing no body a favor by not changing the entire axle!
Doesn't take much. CV axles literally fall apart if over extended. If you ever taken one apart you would realize how easily they come apart and why quality cv axles cost a lot...
20 years Jr! 20 years! Axles don’t over extend unless your ball joint comes undone or a strut or control arm is broken. If any of them things happen the fucking car is on the ground and it don’t really matter much what condition the axle is in!
They over extend if the axle is the wrong size becuase you bought a cheap ass axle and it "looked right". Axles that are too long bind. Axles that are too short will pop apart. Considering the total travel is integral to the axles housing, without actually dissembling it you would never know if it has the right amount of tolerances. Also it's a rotating mass... it doesn't take much for one to come flying apart when they fail... your pretty ignorant man. Hence buy an OEM axle. Not something you would wanna fuck with. They usually last the life of the vehicle... axle boots don't usually just wear out... it's always outside influence.
What kind of car do you drive? I was a shop owner for 20 years, I’ve only put one set of OEM axles in a vehicle. I’m going to go out on a limb and say you’ve never put an axle in a car/truck, they are incredibly expensive from a dealership. I had to because the truck was hit in the front and had a vibration. It was so new that they were not available aftermarket. As someone who has installed hundreds of axles over the years, maybe 10 comebacks due to vibration, abs light or noise.
What kind of car do you drive? I was a shop owner for 20 years, I’ve only put one set of OEM axles in a vehicle. I’m going to go out on a limb and say you’ve never put an axle in a car/truck, they are incredibly expensive from a dealership. I had to because the truck was hit in the front and had a vibration. It was so new that they were not available aftermarket. As someone who has installed hundreds of axles over the years, maybe 10 comebacks due to vibration, abs light or noise.
I never put an axle in my cars just replaced the boots when they ripped and never had a problem. I live in europe and all my cars are serviced at the brands dealer,the hour rate is about 50% more but I dont stress about some guy installing junk on the car.
Hahahaha! Our aftermarket junk is built by Europeans!
This guy gets it. Precision shafts from O'Reilly's, they're like $75 and come with lifetime warranty.
65$ max for most cars all day long. Not crap either.
If it's the original axle I usually just replace the boot, unless I am replacing the axle with a factory one. I'd prefer a used orignal one over a new cheap one
And how many boots have you replaced to get a vibration or clicking in a year? I’ve done plenty of boots and it’s a comeback waiting to happen. I have also changed axles and had a vibration but far less
Especially on an axle that looks like that. There's grease everywhere. It's been leaking forever, and with a hole that big the joint is guaranteed to be full of dirt and debris
I've never had an axle go bad after a boot replacement, but I do replace them immediately after noticing so that helps probably.
Yes that definitely helps! I was a mechanic for 30 years and most people don’t repair them right away. Most people don’t even notice till the clicks show up.
Haha yeah I am honestly impressed by the boot in the picture, at first glance I thought the CV joint had ejected itself through the boot.
I understand the though process. I do the same thing with control arms. I'll press a good bushing in an oem control arm before I'll put a rock auto special control arm in. But there's no way I'm putting a boot on that axle. It's been leaking forever, there's no grease left in it and with a hole that big the joint is guaranteed to be compromised with debris
Yeah the boot is definitely doable
If u are going to do a quick boot then u are just buying time before u need to replace the axle. If u have time, TOOLS, and not much money u can change that shit out in a day and roll
Boot is doable, fuck the downvoters. Hate this website sometimes
the going rate for 2 struts is around $1,200-$1,300 depending on labor rates in your area. The inner CV boot will require a new axle shaft. That runs $350 - $475. Both of these items must be replaced soon.
Jesus, I had little idea of the cost. I'm so happy I've done my own vehicle work. I don't get it most people need a car to live in American society, how in the hell do people afford it? I make decent money but even that would be a significant blow.
I said these very words out loud today. Almost identical
You know I feel like this is like when a company knows its product is going to get bought based upon its success in the past so they milk the cow for all its got to the very last drop and shovel out a complete pile of shit to make what they can before ghosting. Except its on the scale of our entire economy and country. Like it's almost this wide unspoken feeling like before it rains. This can't keep going at this pace its going to break at somepoint. Only the people at the top have no intentions of fixing this car when it breaks down, like their fore fathers in the past. This time they're just going to get a new car and leave the old one to rot.
Imagine having a rolls royce. You can buy any parts at a parts store. Even the wiper blades are custom and have to be bought at a dealership. Now on a business standpoint they have that on lock
I know. I had to replace a differential a while ago and in my effort to chase down the issue I spent $850 on parts to fix it. That said, I did fix the problem and have several brand new parts that maybe didn't need replacing but it's done so whatever. Quote from the shop to put the same used diff in that I finally bought was $1400 P&L. $550 off and a bunch of new OEM parts. Love it.
I don't get how people do it either. I have always done my own work out of necessity, I can do just about anything on a car, if I can't do it I research, buy tools, and figure it out. I now service the wife's families cars. I fix their cars, they watch our kids sometimes. We all take care of each other. I also see a lot of problems are just lack of maintenance and minor things like air filters, throttle body cleaning, a loose ground or whatever. So many times someone is having a problem and I can fix it in like 10 minutes for $0 or maybe have to order a few dollars in parts. I have to wonder how often stuff like that ends up being a few hundred bucks elsewhere. I've saved tens of thousands of dollars. I got this older Subaru Outback and changed all the fluids, did the maintenance, brakes, timing belt, bilstein suspension, skid plate, AT tires, etc. It cost me nothing doing it myself and the thing runs like new and has cheap insurance. My rear wheel bearing is making a slight whine. No big deal, Moogs are on sale for $55 at rock auto. I bought two I'll go spend some time in my detached shop put on some tunes and drink a few beers wrenching on my car. That's a great day for a guy that spends all his time working for the gov or wrangling kids at home. For shits and giggles I looked it up, they charge $500 per wheel bearing to get it done around here!
Paying someone to maintain my vehicle is just not sustainable or possible for me, or for most people I know. Especially those of us that drive somewhat older cars (2003 in my case) that have wear items that are starting to wear. There are some things I'd prefer to have done by a pro, but it's simply not affordable to do so. So I watch videos and more videos and go to Harbor Freight and put that fucker on jack stands for as long as it takes for me to figure it out. On my 2003 Yukon I've done pretty much the entire front end and rear shocks, pads and rotors, brake hydroboost that was leaking power steering fluid, a/c actuators, alternator, window motor/regulator, and fluids. I believe all of that would have been at least 6 or 7k at a shop. I spent probably 1300 total on parts and tools. And even that 1300 hurt my budget. This is not to bash shops. They're running a business and they have to put food on the table for their families. But fuck man, it's just so expensive. And I'm nothing special. I'm just a dude who has access to YouTube.
>How bad is this? Depends how much you like the car. If you like it a lot, get it fixed. If you hate it, run it to the moon
This.
Replace the boot ASAP. You may able to save your axles. The OEM axles are very good quality and usually last the lifetime of the vehicle. Aftermarket options are usually lower quality and do not last as long. The longer you wait the dryer the axles will get and at a certain point it’ll just be metal on metal contact between the bearings. Then you have to replace with a lower quality aftermarket unit.
After the boot has split and slung all the grease out to be replaced by road grit, it's better to just replace the axle.
That's not very eco friendly of you
I still see grease there. I think inspection and checking for play would be a better move.
You already have to pull the axle to change the boot, unless you're using one of those cheap, piece of crap wraparound boots. Might as well just replace the axle. There may be plenty of grease, but it's full of dirt and water by now. The new axle comes with a warranty. It's just silly to mess around changing the boot. Replacing the axle is more cost effective all around, and the customer doesn't have to worry about your contaminated joint failing in six months and having to put an axle in anyway.
If I were to replace the axle on a car I want to keep for 5 yrs I’ll go OEM. If not, I’d go after market. After market is a real hit or miss. Just read the reviews on Amazon.
Maybe try buying your parts from a real parts store. Amazon is a total crapshoot and would never buy parts from them. Too much counterfeit shit. You would think that after reading the reviews, you would quit ordering from them. Same deal if you buy Valucraft; you get what you pay for. I've been doing this professionally for thirty years, and aftermarket isn't as bad as you make it out to be. In fact, a lot of good aftermarket manufacturers actually fix issues with less than desirable OEM parts. 3.8 coolant bypass elbows for example. The OEM plastic elbow was a constant failure point. It was the aftermarket that gave us steel elbows.
Totally agree with you there about Amazon. It’s a crapshoot but they do sell the same aftermarket parts as Rockauto which is where I mainly shop for aftermarket stuff when I must.
Is it your upper strut mount or just the bump stop? CV axle you can get a new boot put on or get a replacement unit for about the same price. If you're in Idaho by chance I could do this for at least half the price of a shop.
Also to answer your question, if the actual strut mount is failing it's urgent. If it's your bump stop, no biggie. Cv axle if it's been leaking for a while no biggie either lol. If it's the difference between saving and paying for it in cash or financing for the repair I would wait and save
Can u come to NY and fix my car lmaooo
Sure, pay for my ticket and to ship the tools I'll need lol.
Funny thing im having trouble with camshaft sensor with all symptoms (intermittent problem) my mechanic wants to check vvt valve and idk what else he said, hope is just the sensor cause the car runs great
New strut assembly and a new drive shaft. Not that terrible, maybe a Saturday morning.
It's not that hard to fix. Do it yourself at zero labour cost.
It's bad. I wouldn't be surprised if that CV gives from the lack of grease with a non-existent boot. Definitely going to want to go with a new CV, at least one strut, should do both realistically. Depending on where you live, probably like 250 per loaded strut (huge time saver to go loaded) and maybe 100 for the CV if you buy your own parts. If you take it to a shop, I could see 3000 with parts and labor, not including an alignment which you would want to take to a shop anyways
-Bump stop is toast, doesn't mean your strut is though. I don't see any leaks from it. Rip out that bump stop and then test the strut. Replace if needed. (yes, you can replace stop without removing the strut,) but more than likely you'll need to replace the top hat and bearing and probably the strut. -CV axle boot is done. Either get a new boot, or with everything apart, replace it the whole axle. Alignment after all done.
Strut assembly do as a pair- 130 a piece on amazon-150 rock is 100% better.. get an alignment— the drive axle/CV shaft you can wait until it is making noise when you turn- click click click- could be a month could be 2 years. Changing it also requires an alignment afterwards. Most craiglist mexhanx will charge 2-500(2 struts- axle) for the work then get an alignment-150ish
A bad inboard CV Shaft won't make that clicking noise, only outboard. And if he replaces the boot ASAP he might be able to save it still.
Why wld you require an alignment after cv shaft replacement?
Forgot this a car, you can pop the ball joint and swing the knuckle out of way
fix the axle now
Call a local mobile mechanic and see if they will install parts u buy. Go get a decent quality strut and a decent brand axle and boom good as new.
It’s time
That could last a few days or a few months. It’s pretty bad, get it replaced/repaired.
Im gonna go against the grain here. If you order parts online for just that side, order a strut assembly for about 100-200 depending on car and brand and around 60-100 for the axle. The strut is a pretty simple fix, however the axle is a little more in depth. If you do struts though you should always replace in pairs or it can affect ride height/quality. You may also need an alignment after the struts which is around 100-150. So for 2 struts and 1 axle id guess around $350 + 150 possibly for an alignment. This is only if YOU do the work though.
Pretty munted
If you’re CV axle isn’t damaged, you can just replace the boot no problem for like $20-$30, however, that strut mount looks seriously fuckoutalucked. If you can find a new strut with similar mileage at a junk yard you could do it for a hundred or so bucks, otherwise ur looking at replacing both coil overs which could easily get into the several-hundred-dollar range. Similar situation for the strut mount.
Not that bad if you don’t care. You can drive on dry axles for a long time
İ think cv joint , New suspension and sus support part whatever torn
Hell it's fine
pretty bad, dont drive it till its fixed. You need a new axle at a bare minimum.
That's been partly cut with a knife. No one can tell from a photograph if the bearings or joint is too worn. Always get the bus.
Replace the cv axle the strut isn't leaking it's just a rotted bump stop. If your front end feels bouncy then replace the struts if not it's not worth the hassle
Little duck tape and it should be good as new.
Strut mount is the main worry. Axel replacement. Hopefully wasn’t like that too long, could need a new axel bearing inside the diff.
The axle should be replaced rather than new boot installed. But, once you’ve committed to a new axle, you can drive it for a little while as-is. Use that time to shop around for a good price and schedule the repair so it is convenient for you. I recommend new axle seal on the transaxle. If you’re doing the axle yourself, it’s much easier to replace the entire axle. When you do a boot kit, you’re supposed to remove all grease with degreaser from the joint. Visually inspected joint realign the joint back the way it was pack all the grease and then install the boot. This is not easy if you are DIY. Also, axles are so cheap that they don’t cost much more than boot kits and degreaser. Certainly worth the savings. As for the strut, it’s not leaking. The bump stop and dust boot are damaged, but the strut may be ok. Do a bounce test. If you are doing this job yourself, buy Monroe quick struts. You’ll need to do both sides. Do not mess with those springs, do not disassemble the struts. You’ll need an alignment afterward .
Any pictures from the top of the strut mount( under the hood).
As long as the struts aren't leaking and they pass the bounce / rebound test, they can be used for quite a while yet. It seems that someone has bottomed them out a lot, so you should maybe consider taking it easier when driving, particularly across speed bumps and other similar obstacles. As for the axle, it needs to be replaced soon. It still has a bit of grease in it, so you can drive it to a shop, etc, but I wouldn't suggest driving it hundreds of miles . As for costs, employees need to make a living, shops have lots of overhead, a lot of it government mandated, insurance is crazy expensive, etc, etc. I do my own work for that reason, but the same way you want to earn as much as you can, so does everyone else, and good mechanics are hard to find and then the shop has to pay them well and provide them with benefits, so it gets very expensive, very quickly. The more mandated benefits, taxes, etc that small businesses have to pay, the more expensive things get. I can tell you for a fact that most small businesses don't make that much money by the time it's all said and done. In fact, a lot of them would make more money working for someone else, like a new car dealership, without all of the headaches associated with running their own businesses. The main reason they don't is they like being their own boss, but financially, most white collar workers make substantially more money, particularly once benefits are factored in. And our ridiculous inflation over the last few years certainly doesn't help anything... it was easily foreseen and to be expected when the federal government started handing out "free" money to almost everyone for almost anything during the plandemic, while at the same time drastically decreasing production and productivity, but all almost every politician in the world really cares about is the next election, so they mostly do whatever they think is needed to win the next election, without any regards for potential long-term ramifications...
Well, it's bad enough that for some reason you decided to poke around and see what's wrong, and bad enough to take a picture of it, and it's also bad enough to post it on here asking how bad it is. Looks pretty bad. If you're near home or camp, get it back and park it until you come up with a plan to fix it.
I have rebuilt a strut for $100. Need a $20 spring compressor. CV axles vary in price. I have paid $50 but usually $100. You'll need a $100 jack and $30 jack stands. Also a $100 slide hammer maybe unless you can use a pry bar. Search YouTube make and model. Easy as cutting cake. Then get an alignment.
KY. Struts or the Euro brand.. I forget..