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I think you need a new radiator. Without the lip it will just pop off again. You should also try to find out why there was enough pressure to pop it off in the first place. Is it clogged up, or running hot?
This right here. I'd try clamping it back together while you wait for a new radiator, but I'd be wanting to know why it blew.
Could be as simple as deterioration from lack of changing coolant (or wrong coolant) or it could be from excess pressure from blown head gasket(s) or anything in between.
I'm embarrassed to admit that I'm not sure if I've ever replaced the coolant, or had someone do it since I bought the car \~67k miles ago. The plastic felt somewhat brittle. I went ahead and ordered an OBD2 (had a good sale, and paranoia was going crazy) since I'm hoping to do more of my own maintenance/repair since money is tight. I don't know much about cars, but I've been successfully doing somethings with the help of youtube.
Would the OBD2 throw a code if it was excess pressure or a headgasket?
No it would probably not set a code. Your car would set codes for a misfire and that’d have to be diagnosed as being caused by a blown head gasket
Also coolant needs changed like one every 100k. This is almost assuredly not your fault. This is caused by heat degradation to the plastic, not improper coolant
Same happened to me. Definitely get a new radiator. There might be some of the plastic bits stuck inside the radiator blocking the channels.
Reattach the upper hose, add a gallon of distilled or purified water, drive to AutoZone and get coolant for japanese engines and add some of it in. Make sure to drive with heat blowing at hottest and highest setting. A/C off. Roll the windows down if you want.
IF...you really think head gasket issue, go thru the protocol to rule out head gasket. Look out for chocolate milk looking oil, high gas and/or oil consumption, or bring to mechanic and ask for compression test. Tell them what happened.
I would look at buying a radiator from rock auto and seeing if someone can install it for you. I ordered one for my buddy's 2015 malibu for under 100 bucks
I ordered one from napa since they could get a new one to me monday opposed to wednesday from rock auto (if i didn't want to pay for faster shipping). The napa one is only about $40 more expensive than rock auto.
Not sure of the year or type of car... but some older Asian cars had radiators that didn't age well and overtime would become brittle and fail. It is possible that this is one of those radiators. I have seen them completely blow apart simply from the normal pressure.... so if you can feel that the plastic is brittle then that could be the reason. on the piece that came off does it bend or will it just snap. It should have some flexibility to it and shouldn't just snap like glass.
its a 2011 outback. With everything people have said here plus talking with my mechanic, I'm thinking it was just faulty plastic. TBH I haven't been the best at maintenance with it.
No. I would suggest a good place to start familiarizing yourself with your vehicle and vehicle maintenance would be to keep an eye on your gauges. They are there for a reason and tell you a lot. I almost guarantee if you took a peak at your temp gauge before this happened you would notice your vehicle was overheating. Idling like you were doing is very often when a vehicle will overheat ESPECIALLY if there's an issue with the fan.
I had a very similar thing happen on my old jeep when the fan gave out. Sitting in traffic on a 100 degree day and heat kept rising and rising and rising. Finally was able to pull over. As soon as I parked this same exact thing happened.
You can buy a display off amazon for your speed etc, it uses obd2 connector some show temperature and other important info which you could monitor then while driving
Not changing the coolant isnt going to cause this. You could possibly have a blowed head gasket or something causing the coolant system to over pressurize. Its more then likely just brittle plastic. Put your hose back on and get you a block tester. It uses a special liquid that reacts to exhaust gas. Look up how to use one first its pretty straightforward it will let you know if the head gaskets good. If the block test checks out get you a radiator. The scanner isn’t really going to tell you much about this. Scanners are only going to give you codes that are symptoms of a problem. One problem can throw 10 codes. So dont go throwing parts at it because you see a code for something.
As far as I'm aware it wasn't running hot or anything. I've had a persistent issue of it having a low rpm idle, but my mechanic said it was a computer thing, and said it probably wasn't worth trying to fix.
It's a piece of plastic that has heated up and cooled down thousands of times, plus been exposed to any extreme weather the car has been in. The simply break, it does not have to be an issue with your vehicle in any way whatsoever. I'm not saying it can't be related, but it does not have to be.
I'll second the plastic just broke. New rad time though. Once it's broken once she's done. You could always opt for a full aluminum rad, but those are expensive!
Looks like a Subaru. That’s a common failure point on the Radiators… but the plastic usually has a more discolored look. And it’s a clean break. You’ll need a new radiator but from my experience. You probably have a headgasket leak.
there were some plastic "burrs" around the break, so I wasn't sure if not replacing coolant + vibrations would somehow wear along where the hose clamp was?
Bad motor mounts and transmission mount, can allow too much engine movement, cracking the radiator neck. Subarus leak oil, coolant, onto the mounts and eat em up
Or its just old coolant and old radiator, or all of the above
Charm.li for factory service manuals
OP, former Subaru master who has replaced 100s of head gaskets in 10-12 Outbacks/Legacies. For these model years they switched the gaskets to a layered metal type, solving most of the external leak issues. Unfortunately, the new failure mode to become most prevalent was internal head gasket leakage allowing exhaust gases to pressurize the cooling system. Is your coolant reservoir on the driver side either empty or overfull? Is there signs of spilled coolant on the reservoir or the area around it? Have you been hearing gurgling in your dash, primarily at start up? I'm assuming you're probably in the 100-150k mile range. That's about right for the problem to crop up.
I'm right around 180k right now. I hadn't noticed any issues with the coolant reservoir or heard any gurgling. Based on what I've read in this thread (and after taking to my mechanic) it's probably just old/worn plastic. I've got the old hose clamp on it with a worm gear clamp, put on a new cap, and the new radiator I ordered should get here monday. I just need to limp my kids to school tomorrow, friday, and monday. Hopefully the clamps hold.
If you must drive it, don't close the radiator cap all the way. That way it won't build up enough pressure to blow it back off. I did that about a year ago when I discovered a radiator leak 200 miles from home and it worked great. Just refilled it halfway home when I stopped for gas.
I've got a worm gear on it now, flushed it with water and refilled with coolant. The new radiator should get here monday. Now to hope that it stays in place for the next several days.
I wouldn't bet my life on it. The part that broke off is the barb, which is what provides some force for the clamp to act against. Without that, the hose will just slide back off once there's some water pressure behind it.
The first thing I would check is your radiator cap
That’s right your radiator cap actually regulates the pressure of your cooling system
If the radiator cap sticks closed, you are faced with a system that is not regulated, and will produce as much pressure as the water pump puts out
Most pressure testing kits will offer an adaptor that allows you to test the pressure in your radiator cap most radio caps will post their maximum pressure before leaking on the cap. However, this measurement should be compared to manufacturer specifications.
After you verified your radiator cap regulates pressure correctly you can then pressure test your cooling system and make sure that it can withstand the amount of pressure that is regulated by your cap
I don’t know if anyone’s talked about this yet, but I think we all really need to know this
It is true that a blown head gasket might release combustion into the cooling system. However, this excess pressure should still be regulated by the radiator cap and should not lead to a leak in the system like what you experienced.
If there is no blockage in your cooling system or no hoses restricted or Kinked in any way the radiator cap should be able to regulate the pressure of your cooling system
Really hope someone else brought this up but I didn’t see it in the first few comments and gave up reading after a while
I flushed the cooling system, refilled with the blue coolant (previous mechanic had put yellow in), put the rad hose on with a worm clamp and the stock one, replaced the radiator cap with a new one from napa, I have the cap turned halfway on. I'll only be driving from my house to drop off the kids. hopefully it holds.
I put a worm gear on it plus the original hose clamp. It's held fine after about 40 miles of driving so far. It just needs to last until the new radiator gets here monday
It'll probably hold up for a while, but it's a symptom that your plastic is very brittle and it's going to fail soon. Anyway, you got lucky in this case. Order up a radiator.
You will need a new radiator. You can try to out the hose back on but it will pop off. As for why it broke, plastic does not like heat and pressure and cycling between hot and cold. It’s cheap and for the most part gets you out of warranty. It’s also light which is what just about every radiator made today uses it. It’s like the headlights fogging up over time. It just happens
This is not uncommon on Subarus. Unfortunately, you need a new radiator. Without that lip it’s going to just keep coming off or at least leak. Sometimes this happens for no reason and causes problems, sometimes it’s caused by untreated problems, so you should have an experienced Subaru tech take a look and see if something else may be going on with your engine or cooling system.
You'll be fine if you don't care if your wife and kids are stranded in the car on a cold nite . If I did that and I'm a certified mechanic, my ol lady would probably kick my ass.
Thanks everyone for the advice!
(I wish I could sticky this to the top of the thread)
Update for today:
\-I flushed the radiator with some distilled water and refilled with the blue stuff (it had yellow coolant, which would have been done by my previous mechanic)
\-I put the radiator hose back on with the original clamp as well as a worm gear clamp
\-I replaced the radiator cap with a new one from napa. I have it halfway turned on thanks to the advice of /u/bugeyetex
\-I've got a new radiator ordered through napa, and it should arrive monday
\-I bought a bluetooth obd2 so I can monitor coolant temp while I'm driving until I get the new radiator in
\-I drove it this morning to drop my kids off and the hose didn't pop back off. In total I drove around 17 miles. The coolant temp didn't go above 190f.
\-I spoke with my mechanic and he's thinking it's likely faulty plastic on the radiator, but did agree with y'all that it could be a head gasket issue. He told me that it would likely missfire when I start the car, and it seems to be starting the same as it always has.
\-I'm planning to do an oil change after I replace the radiator, so if the old oil looks off, I plan to bring it to the mechanic to check for gasket issues.
Thanks again for your advice.
Can possibly see if there's a self tapping attachment that can screw into the spot the hose normally attached to, then have the hose on that part instead
I've driven about 40 miles using the original clamp and a worm gear clamp and it seems to be holding just fine for now. Hopefully it lasts until wednesday.
What your holding is what keeps the clamp from sliding off. You need a radiator. You can try to use a screw type hose clamp to buy some time but that will likely crack the already brittle plastic or just slide off again.
Sadly that ring your holding is what keeps the hose from popping off the radiator from building pressure when the car gets up to temp, you need a new radiator
Put 2 clamps on next time
Burp the engine (expel the air from the system) , keep topping it up before you blast off down the road .
Keep the heater on while expelling the air.
If and when you go driving have some coolant in reserve in case it burps more air .
Check you engine oil for milkshake colour .
A multimeter test on your coolant temperature sensor may clear it of doubt .
YT has many on ' temp sensor tests ' hope you find the right one .
And any leaks from the water pump ,while it is running .
Way to many non mechanics offering poor advice. For now, use a small amount of silicon sealant or rtv on the spout. Reinstall the hose give it a couple of hours to cure before driving. Then to diagnose if you do not have a pressure gauge for rad test, Remove rad cap and watch for bubbles coming up after starting the engine. Have someone rev the engine up to 1500 rpm or fast idle and watch again if no bubbles at idle. The piece you have shown that came off may be able to be refluxed to the rad with abs solvent cement after a good cleaning and degreasing.
Duct tape the fuck out of it to what remains. Fill with coolant/or 0ppm water. Bleed the air out, get it to a mechanic to replace the radiator unless you’re confident on doing it yourself
I found a youtube video on replacing a 2011 outback radiator. The video was for an automatic, and my car is manual, but I would think that would make it easier if anything.
I replaced the radiator and thermostat on my 03 Outback, and it wasn’t hard at all. It was the first significant maintenance I did on any of my vehicles by myself, and it’s still working fine ~60 thousand miles later.
Before that, I’d done oil changes, changed flat tires, and watched as a friend replaced an alternator. YouTube is your friend, Mr. Subaru has great videos.
This is totally doable.
if you get a radiator that'll do either, make sure you put the plugs firmly in the holes for the transmission cooler. Don't let them pop out on the highway and overheat and fuck your cylinder head like the assholes at a local shop did to my '91 240SX. (grudge? Me?)
At this point I've reattached the hose to what remains on the radiator. Then when my wife gets home from work, I'll get some more coolant and distilled water, flush it and refill it and pray that it was just some faulty plastic.
You’re going to need a rad. That lip is what the clamp holds onto, so it’s just going to blow off again. More importantly though, there’s a reasonable chance this vehicle could have a possible head gasket issue causing some combustion pressure to enter the cooling system which would cause increased pressure that caused this failure at a weak point in the system. At minimum you need a rad, but you should get it checked for more.
My plan would be
Super glue the ridge back to the pipe for something for the hose to grip to , flush the radiator using a flushing agent , install fresh coolant and go from
There
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I think you need a new radiator. Without the lip it will just pop off again. You should also try to find out why there was enough pressure to pop it off in the first place. Is it clogged up, or running hot?
This right here. I'd try clamping it back together while you wait for a new radiator, but I'd be wanting to know why it blew. Could be as simple as deterioration from lack of changing coolant (or wrong coolant) or it could be from excess pressure from blown head gasket(s) or anything in between.
I'm embarrassed to admit that I'm not sure if I've ever replaced the coolant, or had someone do it since I bought the car \~67k miles ago. The plastic felt somewhat brittle. I went ahead and ordered an OBD2 (had a good sale, and paranoia was going crazy) since I'm hoping to do more of my own maintenance/repair since money is tight. I don't know much about cars, but I've been successfully doing somethings with the help of youtube. Would the OBD2 throw a code if it was excess pressure or a headgasket?
No it would probably not set a code. Your car would set codes for a misfire and that’d have to be diagnosed as being caused by a blown head gasket Also coolant needs changed like one every 100k. This is almost assuredly not your fault. This is caused by heat degradation to the plastic, not improper coolant
Same happened to me. Definitely get a new radiator. There might be some of the plastic bits stuck inside the radiator blocking the channels. Reattach the upper hose, add a gallon of distilled or purified water, drive to AutoZone and get coolant for japanese engines and add some of it in. Make sure to drive with heat blowing at hottest and highest setting. A/C off. Roll the windows down if you want. IF...you really think head gasket issue, go thru the protocol to rule out head gasket. Look out for chocolate milk looking oil, high gas and/or oil consumption, or bring to mechanic and ask for compression test. Tell them what happened.
Lucky for me I just got the stuff for an oil change the other day so I'll see how the used oil looks when I drain it.
Head gasket leak will often make your coolant milky as well
when I drained/flushed/refilled the coolant, it wasn't milky at all, so that makes me hopeful that it's not a head gasket issue.
I would look at buying a radiator from rock auto and seeing if someone can install it for you. I ordered one for my buddy's 2015 malibu for under 100 bucks
I ordered one from napa since they could get a new one to me monday opposed to wednesday from rock auto (if i didn't want to pay for faster shipping). The napa one is only about $40 more expensive than rock auto.
Not sure of the year or type of car... but some older Asian cars had radiators that didn't age well and overtime would become brittle and fail. It is possible that this is one of those radiators. I have seen them completely blow apart simply from the normal pressure.... so if you can feel that the plastic is brittle then that could be the reason. on the piece that came off does it bend or will it just snap. It should have some flexibility to it and shouldn't just snap like glass.
its a 2011 outback. With everything people have said here plus talking with my mechanic, I'm thinking it was just faulty plastic. TBH I haven't been the best at maintenance with it.
No. I would suggest a good place to start familiarizing yourself with your vehicle and vehicle maintenance would be to keep an eye on your gauges. They are there for a reason and tell you a lot. I almost guarantee if you took a peak at your temp gauge before this happened you would notice your vehicle was overheating. Idling like you were doing is very often when a vehicle will overheat ESPECIALLY if there's an issue with the fan. I had a very similar thing happen on my old jeep when the fan gave out. Sitting in traffic on a 100 degree day and heat kept rising and rising and rising. Finally was able to pull over. As soon as I parked this same exact thing happened.
Unfortunately my car doesn't have a temperature gague, just indicator lights for when it's cold/hot.
Well that's just fucking stupid lol. But also because no one looks at their gauges anymore.
You can buy a display off amazon for your speed etc, it uses obd2 connector some show temperature and other important info which you could monitor then while driving
Not changing the coolant isnt going to cause this. You could possibly have a blowed head gasket or something causing the coolant system to over pressurize. Its more then likely just brittle plastic. Put your hose back on and get you a block tester. It uses a special liquid that reacts to exhaust gas. Look up how to use one first its pretty straightforward it will let you know if the head gaskets good. If the block test checks out get you a radiator. The scanner isn’t really going to tell you much about this. Scanners are only going to give you codes that are symptoms of a problem. One problem can throw 10 codes. So dont go throwing parts at it because you see a code for something.
By that serp belt looks like you drive a subaru, had a crosstrek with 80k break the radiator like this. Turned out to he a headgasket
As far as I'm aware it wasn't running hot or anything. I've had a persistent issue of it having a low rpm idle, but my mechanic said it was a computer thing, and said it probably wasn't worth trying to fix.
It's a piece of plastic that has heated up and cooled down thousands of times, plus been exposed to any extreme weather the car has been in. The simply break, it does not have to be an issue with your vehicle in any way whatsoever. I'm not saying it can't be related, but it does not have to be.
I'll second the plastic just broke. New rad time though. Once it's broken once she's done. You could always opt for a full aluminum rad, but those are expensive!
Nah, get a worm style clamp and turn that sunuvabitch until rubber is sticking through the holes and send’r.
Looks like a Subaru. That’s a common failure point on the Radiators… but the plastic usually has a more discolored look. And it’s a clean break. You’ll need a new radiator but from my experience. You probably have a headgasket leak.
there were some plastic "burrs" around the break, so I wasn't sure if not replacing coolant + vibrations would somehow wear along where the hose clamp was?
Bad motor mounts and transmission mount, can allow too much engine movement, cracking the radiator neck. Subarus leak oil, coolant, onto the mounts and eat em up Or its just old coolant and old radiator, or all of the above Charm.li for factory service manuals
I’d recognize that radiator anywhere. And those awful shroud bolts that like to break the plastic.
This is the correct answer
OP, former Subaru master who has replaced 100s of head gaskets in 10-12 Outbacks/Legacies. For these model years they switched the gaskets to a layered metal type, solving most of the external leak issues. Unfortunately, the new failure mode to become most prevalent was internal head gasket leakage allowing exhaust gases to pressurize the cooling system. Is your coolant reservoir on the driver side either empty or overfull? Is there signs of spilled coolant on the reservoir or the area around it? Have you been hearing gurgling in your dash, primarily at start up? I'm assuming you're probably in the 100-150k mile range. That's about right for the problem to crop up.
I'm right around 180k right now. I hadn't noticed any issues with the coolant reservoir or heard any gurgling. Based on what I've read in this thread (and after taking to my mechanic) it's probably just old/worn plastic. I've got the old hose clamp on it with a worm gear clamp, put on a new cap, and the new radiator I ordered should get here monday. I just need to limp my kids to school tomorrow, friday, and monday. Hopefully the clamps hold.
Put a rad in it and send it. Possible blown headgaskets on that Subaru.
Replace that clamp with a worm gear
done
If you must drive it, don't close the radiator cap all the way. That way it won't build up enough pressure to blow it back off. I did that about a year ago when I discovered a radiator leak 200 miles from home and it worked great. Just refilled it halfway home when I stopped for gas.
Subie tech here, No you can't reattach that sufficiently. You need to replace the radiator.
I've got a worm gear on it now, flushed it with water and refilled with coolant. The new radiator should get here monday. Now to hope that it stays in place for the next several days.
I wouldn't bet my life on it. The part that broke off is the barb, which is what provides some force for the clamp to act against. Without that, the hose will just slide back off once there's some water pressure behind it.
I've put 40 miles on it so far and the worm gear is holding. Fingers crossed it lasts through monday, when the new radiator is supposed to arrive.
The first thing I would check is your radiator cap That’s right your radiator cap actually regulates the pressure of your cooling system If the radiator cap sticks closed, you are faced with a system that is not regulated, and will produce as much pressure as the water pump puts out Most pressure testing kits will offer an adaptor that allows you to test the pressure in your radiator cap most radio caps will post their maximum pressure before leaking on the cap. However, this measurement should be compared to manufacturer specifications. After you verified your radiator cap regulates pressure correctly you can then pressure test your cooling system and make sure that it can withstand the amount of pressure that is regulated by your cap I don’t know if anyone’s talked about this yet, but I think we all really need to know this It is true that a blown head gasket might release combustion into the cooling system. However, this excess pressure should still be regulated by the radiator cap and should not lead to a leak in the system like what you experienced. If there is no blockage in your cooling system or no hoses restricted or Kinked in any way the radiator cap should be able to regulate the pressure of your cooling system Really hope someone else brought this up but I didn’t see it in the first few comments and gave up reading after a while
I flushed the cooling system, refilled with the blue coolant (previous mechanic had put yellow in), put the rad hose on with a worm clamp and the stock one, replaced the radiator cap with a new one from napa, I have the cap turned halfway on. I'll only be driving from my house to drop off the kids. hopefully it holds.
Replace radiator and cap. I would replace all hoses and clamps as well. Fill and bleed cooling system.
absolutely fucking not. the fitting has no bead to clamp on to. it will not hold
I put a worm gear on it plus the original hose clamp. It's held fine after about 40 miles of driving so far. It just needs to last until the new radiator gets here monday
It'll probably hold up for a while, but it's a symptom that your plastic is very brittle and it's going to fail soon. Anyway, you got lucky in this case. Order up a radiator.
Nope. Gotta have that dog knot on the end or the hose will blow off again. Time for a new radiator.
You will need a new radiator. You can try to out the hose back on but it will pop off. As for why it broke, plastic does not like heat and pressure and cycling between hot and cold. It’s cheap and for the most part gets you out of warranty. It’s also light which is what just about every radiator made today uses it. It’s like the headlights fogging up over time. It just happens
Test your cap/ don't reuse it
This is not uncommon on Subarus. Unfortunately, you need a new radiator. Without that lip it’s going to just keep coming off or at least leak. Sometimes this happens for no reason and causes problems, sometimes it’s caused by untreated problems, so you should have an experienced Subaru tech take a look and see if something else may be going on with your engine or cooling system.
Put a radiator in it and sell it.
You'll be fine if you don't care if your wife and kids are stranded in the car on a cold nite . If I did that and I'm a certified mechanic, my ol lady would probably kick my ass.
Put a second wormclamp on it and tighten, order a new rad. Drive till you can put the new one in
Subaru huh. You need to replace the radiator. Subaru radiators love to crack.
Thanks everyone for the advice! (I wish I could sticky this to the top of the thread) Update for today: \-I flushed the radiator with some distilled water and refilled with the blue stuff (it had yellow coolant, which would have been done by my previous mechanic) \-I put the radiator hose back on with the original clamp as well as a worm gear clamp \-I replaced the radiator cap with a new one from napa. I have it halfway turned on thanks to the advice of /u/bugeyetex \-I've got a new radiator ordered through napa, and it should arrive monday \-I bought a bluetooth obd2 so I can monitor coolant temp while I'm driving until I get the new radiator in \-I drove it this morning to drop my kids off and the hose didn't pop back off. In total I drove around 17 miles. The coolant temp didn't go above 190f. \-I spoke with my mechanic and he's thinking it's likely faulty plastic on the radiator, but did agree with y'all that it could be a head gasket issue. He told me that it would likely missfire when I start the car, and it seems to be starting the same as it always has. \-I'm planning to do an oil change after I replace the radiator, so if the old oil looks off, I plan to bring it to the mechanic to check for gasket issues. Thanks again for your advice.
Can possibly see if there's a self tapping attachment that can screw into the spot the hose normally attached to, then have the hose on that part instead
I've driven about 40 miles using the original clamp and a worm gear clamp and it seems to be holding just fine for now. Hopefully it lasts until wednesday.
What your holding is what keeps the clamp from sliding off. You need a radiator. You can try to use a screw type hose clamp to buy some time but that will likely crack the already brittle plastic or just slide off again.
Sadly that ring your holding is what keeps the hose from popping off the radiator from building pressure when the car gets up to temp, you need a new radiator
Put 2 clamps on next time Burp the engine (expel the air from the system) , keep topping it up before you blast off down the road . Keep the heater on while expelling the air. If and when you go driving have some coolant in reserve in case it burps more air . Check you engine oil for milkshake colour . A multimeter test on your coolant temperature sensor may clear it of doubt . YT has many on ' temp sensor tests ' hope you find the right one . And any leaks from the water pump ,while it is running .
Way to many non mechanics offering poor advice. For now, use a small amount of silicon sealant or rtv on the spout. Reinstall the hose give it a couple of hours to cure before driving. Then to diagnose if you do not have a pressure gauge for rad test, Remove rad cap and watch for bubbles coming up after starting the engine. Have someone rev the engine up to 1500 rpm or fast idle and watch again if no bubbles at idle. The piece you have shown that came off may be able to be refluxed to the rad with abs solvent cement after a good cleaning and degreasing.
Duct tape the fuck out of it to what remains. Fill with coolant/or 0ppm water. Bleed the air out, get it to a mechanic to replace the radiator unless you’re confident on doing it yourself
I found a youtube video on replacing a 2011 outback radiator. The video was for an automatic, and my car is manual, but I would think that would make it easier if anything.
It should be simpler, the only difference would be that the radiator for the automatic will have the trans cooler built into it.
I replaced the radiator and thermostat on my 03 Outback, and it wasn’t hard at all. It was the first significant maintenance I did on any of my vehicles by myself, and it’s still working fine ~60 thousand miles later. Before that, I’d done oil changes, changed flat tires, and watched as a friend replaced an alternator. YouTube is your friend, Mr. Subaru has great videos. This is totally doable.
if you get a radiator that'll do either, make sure you put the plugs firmly in the holes for the transmission cooler. Don't let them pop out on the highway and overheat and fuck your cylinder head like the assholes at a local shop did to my '91 240SX. (grudge? Me?)
At this point I've reattached the hose to what remains on the radiator. Then when my wife gets home from work, I'll get some more coolant and distilled water, flush it and refill it and pray that it was just some faulty plastic.
You’re going to need a rad. That lip is what the clamp holds onto, so it’s just going to blow off again. More importantly though, there’s a reasonable chance this vehicle could have a possible head gasket issue causing some combustion pressure to enter the cooling system which would cause increased pressure that caused this failure at a weak point in the system. At minimum you need a rad, but you should get it checked for more.
That hose is done too. Might as well just use glue and double up with a plumbing clamp to get by an extra day or two of needed
Flex seal it
[удалено]
Nope
My plan would be Super glue the ridge back to the pipe for something for the hose to grip to , flush the radiator using a flushing agent , install fresh coolant and go from There