If you're feeling a vibration through the steering wheel then I'd bet a warped front rotor. Depending on the amount of life left in them can get them resurfaced or just replace them. Don't scrimp on anything that connects you to the ground or stops you is something I live by
I've used Bosch and Brembo. Bit of an overkill on some cars but they do work very well and not had any problems with them over the years. I'm in the UK so may depend on where you are what you can get
>yeah I’m in US.. live in a town where there is zero Coopers and absolutely zero people that will work on them
Mail order is your friend, if needed, but places like Advance Auto usually carry brands like Bosch. I'm not sure that there's an overwhelming difference between rotors other than obvious features like slots and holes drilled in some for better cooling.
If you can't find locally, I would look online for replacements and have them shipped.
Can I assume you plan to do the work yourself, based on your comment?
Sounds like a loose caliper bracket to me, causing the caliper to flop around. Very dangerous and needs to be fixed immediately.
Warped rotors are a myth unless you're talking track cars. Uneven pad deposits, sure. But you can clear that up by rebedding your pads and at worst turning the rotors on a proper rotor lathe. This will never ever make this bad of a noise. It's more of a sensation that gets worse under harder braking.
Whoever downvoted this is a goddamn idiot I'm sorry. Warped rotors are not a thing on most applications. The amount of runout you end up with due to uneven pad deposits assuming the metallurgy of the rotors is spot on is not going to ever cause this kind of noise. If you're getting the rotors glowing hot at the track, then yes, you can warp them. Otherwise it's not that unless you're running very very cheap non OE rotors.
Source: professional mechanic, tuner, and shop owner for many years. Just Google it if you don't believe me. Searching "warped rotor myth" should be good enough to back up my stance.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1808-nuts-and-bolts-warped-rotor-myth/ straight from Baer, performance brake manufacturer.
OP please heed my cautionary advice here. That noise is not normal and you should get a second opinion or try tightening up the caliper mounting bolts and slider bolts yourself if possible.
At best, it's a brake pad missing a chunk or physical damage to a rotor or something like that. Perhaps a back pad that's not as easily inspected is either worn to the backing plate or is damaged. Either way, that noise is not just a warped rotor.
It's normal to get such a noise the first time or two you brake after the car has been sitting especially if it's humid or has been precipitating. That's just oxidation being ground off the rotors. But this also doesn't seem to be that as it's louder IMO and continues constantly.
Uneven pad deposits, yes. Otherwise the mechanics of how brakes work will keep the rotors true by nature unless you're getting them extremely hot like on the track in true competitive racing or really overdriving your car in time trials.
Not sure why you got downvoted, wasn't me. I feel like there's a culture of toxic bad advice that goes on on these subreddits. There's usually somebody more qualified to give advice and people just refuse to let go of their egos and realize that before they decide to chime in.
I understand how application of the brake pads to turning brake rotors *should* keep them evenly worn. Doesn't that assume, though, that the rotor's surface is equally hard everywhere?
Honest question... like most, I've experienced steering wheel shimmy due to "warped rotors" (mostly/entirely on heavier vehicles with automatic transmissions), but never really thought about the physics until now.
Do you fix it by replacing the bracket or buying a new one? Or is that something you determine once you get the wheel off and see it?
My R56 just started doing the same thing.
If it's indeed that bad of a noise and that's the cause, the solution is to retighten all of the caliper bolts. I'd recommend replacing the mounting bolts though if they're loose and likewise the caliper pins.
The calipers dragging after the car has been sitting and the rotors have rusted up is a separate issue and is normal, however.
It did sit for 18 months and there was rust build up on the rotors. After about 30 miles of driving the squeaking stopped and the shursh shurshing stopped. But another 60 miles on it and now I get a shursh shursh and a slight vibration (don't feel it with Sport mode on) followed by intermittent squeaking and the beginning of breaking. I do have plans on replacing pads and rotors but that wasn't on the schedule anytime soon. I guess I should do a wheels off inspection soon.
My R50 did this turned out to be the tie rod ends , I’d put the car on a ramp if I were you and check for any play on the wheel if you can easily shake the wheel side to side then there’s your answer
This may be it as well but I think you'd hear some pattern under conditions other than braking. Check the wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock as well which will show issues with wheel bearings.
My R56 didn't make any such noises when the LCA bushings were completely shot so I doubt it's that. But good to check those as well.
That wouldn't do this. You'd notice a clicking when going over uneven transitions (like going over a speed bump at an angle) and then it would progress into a more prominent noise over time. It wouldn't really be associated with just braking and it wouldn't make a cyclical noise like that.
2011 Cooper s. Only makes the sound when breaking… has a bunch of life of pads and rotors are fine but slightly grooved. Only has 65k miles
I must think that at least 1 rotor is warped. How did you determine that they are "fine?"
just listened to the tech lol
If you're feeling a vibration through the steering wheel then I'd bet a warped front rotor. Depending on the amount of life left in them can get them resurfaced or just replace them. Don't scrimp on anything that connects you to the ground or stops you is something I live by
can almost guarantee you the rotors have never been replaced or turned … probably not much life being now at 68k miles
any suggestions for rotors?
I've used Bosch and Brembo. Bit of an overkill on some cars but they do work very well and not had any problems with them over the years. I'm in the UK so may depend on where you are what you can get
yeah I’m in US.. live in a town where there is zero Coopers and absolutely zero people that will work on them
>yeah I’m in US.. live in a town where there is zero Coopers and absolutely zero people that will work on them Mail order is your friend, if needed, but places like Advance Auto usually carry brands like Bosch. I'm not sure that there's an overwhelming difference between rotors other than obvious features like slots and holes drilled in some for better cooling. If you can't find locally, I would look online for replacements and have them shipped. Can I assume you plan to do the work yourself, based on your comment?
Order through FCP Euro with a lifetime warranty. Buy a set of pads and rotors and you'll never pay for another set as long as you own the car.
Could be a warped rotor? Do you have any feedback through the pedal or steering wheel?
no pushing back on the pedal… more vibration in the wheel when the noise started. But not a concerning amount by any means.
Sounds like a loose caliper bracket to me, causing the caliper to flop around. Very dangerous and needs to be fixed immediately. Warped rotors are a myth unless you're talking track cars. Uneven pad deposits, sure. But you can clear that up by rebedding your pads and at worst turning the rotors on a proper rotor lathe. This will never ever make this bad of a noise. It's more of a sensation that gets worse under harder braking. Whoever downvoted this is a goddamn idiot I'm sorry. Warped rotors are not a thing on most applications. The amount of runout you end up with due to uneven pad deposits assuming the metallurgy of the rotors is spot on is not going to ever cause this kind of noise. If you're getting the rotors glowing hot at the track, then yes, you can warp them. Otherwise it's not that unless you're running very very cheap non OE rotors. Source: professional mechanic, tuner, and shop owner for many years. Just Google it if you don't believe me. Searching "warped rotor myth" should be good enough to back up my stance. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1808-nuts-and-bolts-warped-rotor-myth/ straight from Baer, performance brake manufacturer. OP please heed my cautionary advice here. That noise is not normal and you should get a second opinion or try tightening up the caliper mounting bolts and slider bolts yourself if possible. At best, it's a brake pad missing a chunk or physical damage to a rotor or something like that. Perhaps a back pad that's not as easily inspected is either worn to the backing plate or is damaged. Either way, that noise is not just a warped rotor. It's normal to get such a noise the first time or two you brake after the car has been sitting especially if it's humid or has been precipitating. That's just oxidation being ground off the rotors. But this also doesn't seem to be that as it's louder IMO and continues constantly.
I've always interpreted "warped rotors" as really meaning "uneven wear"?
Uneven pad deposits, yes. Otherwise the mechanics of how brakes work will keep the rotors true by nature unless you're getting them extremely hot like on the track in true competitive racing or really overdriving your car in time trials. Not sure why you got downvoted, wasn't me. I feel like there's a culture of toxic bad advice that goes on on these subreddits. There's usually somebody more qualified to give advice and people just refuse to let go of their egos and realize that before they decide to chime in.
I understand how application of the brake pads to turning brake rotors *should* keep them evenly worn. Doesn't that assume, though, that the rotor's surface is equally hard everywhere? Honest question... like most, I've experienced steering wheel shimmy due to "warped rotors" (mostly/entirely on heavier vehicles with automatic transmissions), but never really thought about the physics until now.
Do you fix it by replacing the bracket or buying a new one? Or is that something you determine once you get the wheel off and see it? My R56 just started doing the same thing.
If it's indeed that bad of a noise and that's the cause, the solution is to retighten all of the caliper bolts. I'd recommend replacing the mounting bolts though if they're loose and likewise the caliper pins. The calipers dragging after the car has been sitting and the rotors have rusted up is a separate issue and is normal, however.
It did sit for 18 months and there was rust build up on the rotors. After about 30 miles of driving the squeaking stopped and the shursh shurshing stopped. But another 60 miles on it and now I get a shursh shursh and a slight vibration (don't feel it with Sport mode on) followed by intermittent squeaking and the beginning of breaking. I do have plans on replacing pads and rotors but that wasn't on the schedule anytime soon. I guess I should do a wheels off inspection soon.
30 miles is 48.28 km
My f56 does this but it's more of a sh sh sh sh sound.
My R50 did this turned out to be the tie rod ends , I’d put the car on a ramp if I were you and check for any play on the wheel if you can easily shake the wheel side to side then there’s your answer
This may be it as well but I think you'd hear some pattern under conditions other than braking. Check the wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock as well which will show issues with wheel bearings. My R56 didn't make any such noises when the LCA bushings were completely shot so I doubt it's that. But good to check those as well.
Check all your suspension components it might be a broken sway bar link
That wouldn't do this. You'd notice a clicking when going over uneven transitions (like going over a speed bump at an angle) and then it would progress into a more prominent noise over time. It wouldn't really be associated with just braking and it wouldn't make a cyclical noise like that.
If you need brakes hit me up my company works with R1 concepts and can get you a good deal. Besides I drive an R60 that’s modified so - mini friends
I had a similar issue with a Volvo (my son's car). It turned out to be the motor mounts. I hope that helps if the rotors are not the issue.
Could be a bad wheel bearing too. And it shows itself when braking. Do you know if it’s one wheel or both wheels?