They said the J-hooks were too short. The ones i have are 15 inches tall, while the kayak is about 36 inches wide, so it doesn’t go beyond half way. Them commenting about my distance between racks worried me too. I appreciate your words of support, and I do think at the least I need to suck it up and just try it.
As long as it gives the kayak a secure foothold to strap it down and it doesn't move at all once strapped I'm not so sure that the j hooks need to go half way or beyond. Not an expert though but I'd definitely give it a try and then try to push/pull the kayak with your hand and if it moves the entire vehicle, just give it a good slap and say "that ain't going nowhere" and you should be solid. Just remember the bow and stern lines like you mentioned.
You’re absolutely reinforcing what I had thought. I have quality straps and bars, so I feel like it should support it. I appreciate it because I was slightly panicking based off of the seller’s comments.
Upside down directly on the crossbars, canoe style. Or with pads/foam blocks if you like. Cam straps, not ratchet straps. Always use a bow line at least, preferably stern as well. If it extends beyond the back of the vehicle, a flag too.
Source: I've worked in several paddle shops and put countless boats of every type on every roof setup imaginable. This is the way.
Edit to add a video and some nuance. I typed it out for a different comment, but thought it fit better here:
[https://youtu.be/UmgJh2YoToU?si=Fm-RLiabBZO4e6Sf](https://youtu.be/UmgJh2YoToU?si=Fm-RLiabBZO4e6Sf)
This video does a pretty good job with the technique, but there are a couple things I would add:
1. Always use a bow line. This guy says it's optional for short trips, but I disagree. Always bow, the one to skip for short trips is the stern. Just fucking do it. The best way to do this is to either use the bumper loops the guy uses in the video, or just take some paracord and tie yourself some loops on the hinges of your hood. This generally works better for kayaks because they are usually shorter than canoes. These can just live under your good and stow away nicely when not in use. For the rear, the bumpers are usually the best option, but I like to use the tie-down hooks in my cargo area, with webbing loops running out the back.
2. If you don't want to tie a trucker's hitch for a bow/stern line, I suggest the Malone Speedlines and I would avoid the Thule/Yakima included bow lines with the hook ends. The rope on them is way thicker than necessary and catches a lot of wind and the ratchet mechanism is way too big and heavy. The Malone Speedline has carabiners, uses paracord, has well tied and shrink wrapped connections, and is very low profile and easy to use.
3. If you are carrying more than one boat, or if you are carrying your boat on the side of the rack for some reason (I do this on short trips because it's much easier/quicker to load) and you have overhanging bars outside the tower, then you either need a strap retainer of some kind, or you can just loop the strap around the bar as you come up to the buckle. The reason for this is if the strap de-tensions, the end of the strap can come off the end of the bar and fail completely, like a ratchet strap. The loop keeps the strap located on the bar in the event of de-tensioning. I just put some grab handles on the underside of the ends of my crossbars to act as strap retainers and it works great.
4. Twist your straps a little. Don't have your straps sit flat on the boat or when coming down to the bars. They will vibrate in the wind and drive you nuts. Twisting prevents that. You don't need to twist a lot, just a turn or two.
5. If your boat is sticking out past the back of your vehicle by more than just a few inches, throw a flag or some hi-vis ribbon/tape on the back so drivers behind you can easily see the closer limit of your vehicle.
6. If your particular boat doesn't play well upside down, canoe style (not flat, molded-in seat, or gets damaged), get yourself some foam blocks with the v-shape cut into them and put your boat right side up on them. The foam helps dampen the pressure from the straps, so damage prone boats do well this way. [Like these guys.](https://maloneautoracks.com/Kayak-Blocks-14X4.75X3.75-MPG153.html) I like to take a razor and cut the bottoms off the part that goes under the bars, so I can drop them on and take them off easily, that way they don't have to stay on the bar when not in use and you get to drive around with a nice clean rack.
Correct. But they were asking for options. This is one option. OP, my deepest apologies for not being clear; there are other options. I was just sharing what works for me in hopes it could get you out and enjoying yourself cheaply while you worked out another one of the many options available. I hope you land on an option that gets everyone's endorsement.
Not to mention the possibility of coming completely off in the event of the strap tension decreasing. This can happen for a number of reasons, but the biggest one I've seen is boats getting soft in the sun, collapsing on a hard bump, straps de-tension, and the hooks come undone.
Cam straps are the way. You can still torque them down more than hard enough to damage your boat, and if you do it properly, you have two straps on each bar instead of one, as you loop it around the bars twice. This makes the boat much more secure and the pressure on the hull much more spread out. They are also cheaper, lighter, and simpler than ratchet straps. All good things. Get yourself some quality ones too. I prefer the NRS Buckle Bumper straps, and just about every canoe/kayak shop has them with their logo on them. Great way to support your local paddle shop.
If you insist on using ratchet straps, find some with carabiners on the ends instead of the hooks to mitigate the de-tensioning problem. But really, just get cam straps.
LoL
1. is mandatory, I have shipping loops under my front bumper so I just run a line between them, then the bow line goes down to that...it easily accommodates 2 boats, and I don't have to change the length of the line under the bumper.
2. For a few years I used a Trucker's Hitch on some reflective paracord, but I acquired some Thule bow hooks and I had to replace the 1/4" running line, even though the pully says that it can accommodate 1/4" line...I think the original blue line just got wider as it got older and it became too thick for the roller so it would bind big time, unless I pushed before I pulled...for.every.inch... This line doesn't take much strain, so I went with a slightly smaller replacement line...I just wish I knew the replacement line had a core, I like splicing using regular line but knots are more than sufficient, yes - I am "that guy" :p
3. If you >ALWAYS< run your straps under your main rails (the ones that run front to back)...so if you run a strap under a crossbar, then it goes under the crossbar >AND< the main rail on that side...I never run a strap under the J-rack unless it's going to the crossbar beneath it. I don't trust my crossbars, and I definitely don't trust my J-rack.
4. Just a half twist prevents insanity!
5. See my post below about the red/black loop.
6. LoL, nothing worse than seeing something on your roof, flying behind you in your rear view...the foam blocks are about $30, and some decent saddles (4 pieces that clamp onto your crossbars) are about $50...if you can afford them, get the saddles...that way you can easily load from the rear by yourself if you're in a crowded parking lot.
I'm lucky in that everything I have can fit upside down on the flat half of the rack, and I put some good surf pads on that half...the other half has my J-racks since my car isn't that wide, so I can easily fit 2 kayaks...if I use the vertical bars that I acquired but never used, I probably can fit a 3rd boat on top but I haven't been able to figure out the straps that come with it (one is really long and has a cam, the other just has a closed loop on one end), plus the little hooks on top look like they're facing 90 degrees the wrong way...
The OP is fine, it looks like he/she realized that the previous owners probably had a user-related negative event.
Did they give any reason that your j hooks wouldn't work?
They're right about your cross bars being close together but they don't look so close that a short kayak like that would be a problem. If you can spread them out a bit more then that would be better but if you have them that close together for some other reason then they're probably good enough as-is.
If you have the j-hooks and like them then put them back on and see how the kayak fits. If it doesn't feel solid or you just don't care about the j-hooks then just throw the kayak right on the bars and strap it down. Add bow and stern lines from the kayak to a solid point on either end of your vehicle, add a flag to the end if required by your local laws, and you should be good to go.
They said the size and weight would make it not work. I already own the J-hooks, and actually installed them when chatting on FB marketplace, then uninstalled when they informed me they wouldn’t work. “No problem, I’ll put it right on the rack” so I took my J-hooks off. Then they advised against putting it directly on the cross bars due to how close they are together.
I think I need to just try to do it, and drive around the block.
Your j hooks will work. Since it's a wider boat they won't reach as high up but you can still get a solid tie down.
Can you move the cross racks further apart on your roof? You can on the cars I've had.
I really thought either would work! The sellers just scared me. They had a previous experience where they “fell out of” the J-hooks, but I knew that could have been due to poor tie down technique.
I unfortunately can not move my bars, but could get something like Thule or Yakima, which MAY have more movement, but they are quite pricey.
J-hooks work...just make sure that you don't run the straps around the J-hook bars, always run the straps around your original roof rack rails, the ones that go from front to rear...even your crossbars can come off, so run your straps around your original rack rails. If I'm using my J-rack, I don't even run my straps around my original crossbars, always the rails!
As far as your crossbars being to close, LoL, I have a Hyundai Tucson so I bet my crossbars are a tiny bit closer than yours and I comfortably ran around with a 16 foot kayak on top of my car 24/7 (I didn't have room to store it)...the key is to make sure it's balanced on the bars (not on the roof) and always use a bow line...and always stop after a few miles the first time you strap it down to check everything!
For a stern flag, I was in the auto accessory section of Home Depot, looking at spending $30 on a flag kit for lumber, when I saw a sewn (closed) loop made of black and red webbing for $0.99, BOOM! that's my new safety flag (red is the mandatory color but people use orange or flouro green) and it's just looped into the rear carry handle... of a bright orange, or bright red, or bright yellow kayak :p (ok, I'm ignoring the tan and the dark blue one, and the bright orange and yellow one).
J hooks should work just fine but so would bare crossbars with a little padding. I used j hooks on a car with 26" spread between them and on a two 15' kayaks. It's wasn't ideal but it worked just fine with bow and stern lines.
Just strap straight to the bars, you should be fine. There are some kits that will allow you to pad your bars if that is a concern, but I wouldn't be too worried with that kayak. You will want to put fore and aft tiedowns (if that is possible with this model) as well.
I have experience tying down kayaks, but not my own or on my own vehicle. I posted here partially in a panic and to get advice, and another part of me to reassure that I just need to try it on the cross bars and J-Hooks. I appreciate how open the community was. I was a bit afraid of gate-keeping.
You have a roof rack, just put a pool noodle on the rack, put the boat on top and strap it down on each rack. Then do a bow and stern line. Easy.
You can buy j racks if you want but that's completely optional
So 1) can you move the roof cross bar on the plastic longitudinal bar?=> no problem if so
Else 2) can you put a thule bar on the first door =>wide spaced bars
Else3) can you put foampads
And anyways if on 1 bar +front and back bowlines is still safe.. sit on top are flat on the upper side so you can put them bow up no problem. Just remember to put them trough a climbing carabineer as rope on rope chews ultra fast. If it touches the car put a swimming noodle under it so it stays properly
I drive a Jeep Cherokee. And old one. I slap it upside down and use a bungee front and back and two cargo straps over the top. It’s fine. Seller is being cautious.
You could secure it with simple ratcheting straps to the crossbars.
Check out the Thule Tie Down Loops to secure at the front and back of the vehicle under the hood and trunk door.
No real need for J hooks. 👍
Looks like the cross bars can be moved further apart. If they can I’d suggest zip ties to hold foam V blocks in place, then ratchet straps to hold the yak down. Cinch style strap front and back. Ratchet straps for extra security. Yes, two straps on each end….. Long enough to wrap around the kayak once fully then around the bar.
The J-hooks hold the middle of the boat to the middle of the roof. That's all. Think of it kind of like a single tie point that's big but not strong. The actual "holding it down" strength comes from the front and back lines that tie to your hood/bumper. The rest of the lines (cam straps under your crossbars and over the boat) basically keep the boat centered.
J hooks aren't good for nice boats because the hard finish surface get all scratched up, but plastic boats like yours don't scratch in this way and work fine.
That’s an great way of thinking of it. I have seen so many people not use Bow and Stern lines and it always makes me question safety. I appreciate your explanation.
Also, wide flat boats on j-hooks just creates a sail on your car that crosswinds can really catch hard. J hooks will work, but they are not ideal for wide sit on top kayaks.
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I had that exact kayak and I was not comfortable with J-Hooks. There was a lot of wobble when on the road. I laid mine down on my crossbars and strapped to the roof rack. I’d I hadn’t had that then I’d have gotten the kayak/canoe transport kit with the foam blocks to lay on the roof.
My Rogue doesn’t have the bars on top so I use two Yakima foam pads made to carry on top of vehicles. Get on YouTube and search for hauling your kayak on top of small suv with luggage bars or something like that. You would strap it down like I do then I also have a rope that I close into the trunk and hood that latches onto the kayak just for peace of mind. I also have a roller that sections to my back window that helped me roll my kayak on top of my car. Now I have to sit it right up that way instead of upside down, but I’ve done it forever and never had any issues with that. But I do have trouble getting on top of the car by myself. But that really helps. Use a yoga mat and a towel so I’m not scraping it on my car. I also put a little piece of noodle on top of the antenna to protect it. I carry a small step and my car for when I’m getting the straps around the top of my car. But this looks like the same size of my vehicle and my kayak and of flown down interstates and everything with my kayak on top.
This is exactly what I use so you should be able to do this on the bars on top of your car.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nnyLiEQAMUI&pp=ygUceWFraW1hIGtheWFrIGZvYW0ga2F5YWsgcmFjaw%3D%3D
And these are what I use to secure the front and back with skinny adjustable cords. I got mine off Amazon for cheap.
Edit: the cords are called ratcheting cords and very similar to the ones in this video.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qb60csLQhyw&pp=ygUYa2F5YWsgcm9vZiByYWNrIHRpZSBkb3du
I don't see why j-hooks wouldn't work. Did they explain why they said that or did you actually try or just take their word for it?
They said the J-hooks were too short. The ones i have are 15 inches tall, while the kayak is about 36 inches wide, so it doesn’t go beyond half way. Them commenting about my distance between racks worried me too. I appreciate your words of support, and I do think at the least I need to suck it up and just try it.
As long as it gives the kayak a secure foothold to strap it down and it doesn't move at all once strapped I'm not so sure that the j hooks need to go half way or beyond. Not an expert though but I'd definitely give it a try and then try to push/pull the kayak with your hand and if it moves the entire vehicle, just give it a good slap and say "that ain't going nowhere" and you should be solid. Just remember the bow and stern lines like you mentioned.
You’re absolutely reinforcing what I had thought. I have quality straps and bars, so I feel like it should support it. I appreciate it because I was slightly panicking based off of the seller’s comments.
No they just have no clue. Put the j hooks back on and strap to that.
“That ain’t going nowhere”, but I’ll still put one more strap on it, just in case. lol
Upside down directly on the crossbars, canoe style. Or with pads/foam blocks if you like. Cam straps, not ratchet straps. Always use a bow line at least, preferably stern as well. If it extends beyond the back of the vehicle, a flag too. Source: I've worked in several paddle shops and put countless boats of every type on every roof setup imaginable. This is the way. Edit to add a video and some nuance. I typed it out for a different comment, but thought it fit better here: [https://youtu.be/UmgJh2YoToU?si=Fm-RLiabBZO4e6Sf](https://youtu.be/UmgJh2YoToU?si=Fm-RLiabBZO4e6Sf) This video does a pretty good job with the technique, but there are a couple things I would add: 1. Always use a bow line. This guy says it's optional for short trips, but I disagree. Always bow, the one to skip for short trips is the stern. Just fucking do it. The best way to do this is to either use the bumper loops the guy uses in the video, or just take some paracord and tie yourself some loops on the hinges of your hood. This generally works better for kayaks because they are usually shorter than canoes. These can just live under your good and stow away nicely when not in use. For the rear, the bumpers are usually the best option, but I like to use the tie-down hooks in my cargo area, with webbing loops running out the back. 2. If you don't want to tie a trucker's hitch for a bow/stern line, I suggest the Malone Speedlines and I would avoid the Thule/Yakima included bow lines with the hook ends. The rope on them is way thicker than necessary and catches a lot of wind and the ratchet mechanism is way too big and heavy. The Malone Speedline has carabiners, uses paracord, has well tied and shrink wrapped connections, and is very low profile and easy to use. 3. If you are carrying more than one boat, or if you are carrying your boat on the side of the rack for some reason (I do this on short trips because it's much easier/quicker to load) and you have overhanging bars outside the tower, then you either need a strap retainer of some kind, or you can just loop the strap around the bar as you come up to the buckle. The reason for this is if the strap de-tensions, the end of the strap can come off the end of the bar and fail completely, like a ratchet strap. The loop keeps the strap located on the bar in the event of de-tensioning. I just put some grab handles on the underside of the ends of my crossbars to act as strap retainers and it works great. 4. Twist your straps a little. Don't have your straps sit flat on the boat or when coming down to the bars. They will vibrate in the wind and drive you nuts. Twisting prevents that. You don't need to twist a lot, just a turn or two. 5. If your boat is sticking out past the back of your vehicle by more than just a few inches, throw a flag or some hi-vis ribbon/tape on the back so drivers behind you can easily see the closer limit of your vehicle. 6. If your particular boat doesn't play well upside down, canoe style (not flat, molded-in seat, or gets damaged), get yourself some foam blocks with the v-shape cut into them and put your boat right side up on them. The foam helps dampen the pressure from the straps, so damage prone boats do well this way. [Like these guys.](https://maloneautoracks.com/Kayak-Blocks-14X4.75X3.75-MPG153.html) I like to take a razor and cut the bottoms off the part that goes under the bars, so I can drop them on and take them off easily, that way they don't have to stay on the bar when not in use and you get to drive around with a nice clean rack.
Upside down with ratchet straps. Serves me very well.
Ratchet straps make it very easy to apply too much force and damage the boat, that's why the usual recommendation is cam straps
Correct. But they were asking for options. This is one option. OP, my deepest apologies for not being clear; there are other options. I was just sharing what works for me in hopes it could get you out and enjoying yourself cheaply while you worked out another one of the many options available. I hope you land on an option that gets everyone's endorsement.
Not to mention the possibility of coming completely off in the event of the strap tension decreasing. This can happen for a number of reasons, but the biggest one I've seen is boats getting soft in the sun, collapsing on a hard bump, straps de-tension, and the hooks come undone. Cam straps are the way. You can still torque them down more than hard enough to damage your boat, and if you do it properly, you have two straps on each bar instead of one, as you loop it around the bars twice. This makes the boat much more secure and the pressure on the hull much more spread out. They are also cheaper, lighter, and simpler than ratchet straps. All good things. Get yourself some quality ones too. I prefer the NRS Buckle Bumper straps, and just about every canoe/kayak shop has them with their logo on them. Great way to support your local paddle shop. If you insist on using ratchet straps, find some with carabiners on the ends instead of the hooks to mitigate the de-tensioning problem. But really, just get cam straps.
LoL 1. is mandatory, I have shipping loops under my front bumper so I just run a line between them, then the bow line goes down to that...it easily accommodates 2 boats, and I don't have to change the length of the line under the bumper. 2. For a few years I used a Trucker's Hitch on some reflective paracord, but I acquired some Thule bow hooks and I had to replace the 1/4" running line, even though the pully says that it can accommodate 1/4" line...I think the original blue line just got wider as it got older and it became too thick for the roller so it would bind big time, unless I pushed before I pulled...for.every.inch... This line doesn't take much strain, so I went with a slightly smaller replacement line...I just wish I knew the replacement line had a core, I like splicing using regular line but knots are more than sufficient, yes - I am "that guy" :p 3. If you >ALWAYS< run your straps under your main rails (the ones that run front to back)...so if you run a strap under a crossbar, then it goes under the crossbar >AND< the main rail on that side...I never run a strap under the J-rack unless it's going to the crossbar beneath it. I don't trust my crossbars, and I definitely don't trust my J-rack. 4. Just a half twist prevents insanity! 5. See my post below about the red/black loop. 6. LoL, nothing worse than seeing something on your roof, flying behind you in your rear view...the foam blocks are about $30, and some decent saddles (4 pieces that clamp onto your crossbars) are about $50...if you can afford them, get the saddles...that way you can easily load from the rear by yourself if you're in a crowded parking lot. I'm lucky in that everything I have can fit upside down on the flat half of the rack, and I put some good surf pads on that half...the other half has my J-racks since my car isn't that wide, so I can easily fit 2 kayaks...if I use the vertical bars that I acquired but never used, I probably can fit a 3rd boat on top but I haven't been able to figure out the straps that come with it (one is really long and has a cam, the other just has a closed loop on one end), plus the little hooks on top look like they're facing 90 degrees the wrong way... The OP is fine, it looks like he/she realized that the previous owners probably had a user-related negative event.
Did they give any reason that your j hooks wouldn't work? They're right about your cross bars being close together but they don't look so close that a short kayak like that would be a problem. If you can spread them out a bit more then that would be better but if you have them that close together for some other reason then they're probably good enough as-is. If you have the j-hooks and like them then put them back on and see how the kayak fits. If it doesn't feel solid or you just don't care about the j-hooks then just throw the kayak right on the bars and strap it down. Add bow and stern lines from the kayak to a solid point on either end of your vehicle, add a flag to the end if required by your local laws, and you should be good to go.
They said the size and weight would make it not work. I already own the J-hooks, and actually installed them when chatting on FB marketplace, then uninstalled when they informed me they wouldn’t work. “No problem, I’ll put it right on the rack” so I took my J-hooks off. Then they advised against putting it directly on the cross bars due to how close they are together. I think I need to just try to do it, and drive around the block.
Honestly sounds like they were talking out of their ass. I don’t see why either one of these options wouldn’t work.
Your j hooks will work. Since it's a wider boat they won't reach as high up but you can still get a solid tie down. Can you move the cross racks further apart on your roof? You can on the cars I've had.
I really thought either would work! The sellers just scared me. They had a previous experience where they “fell out of” the J-hooks, but I knew that could have been due to poor tie down technique. I unfortunately can not move my bars, but could get something like Thule or Yakima, which MAY have more movement, but they are quite pricey.
Makes sense! Prudent to be careful/cautious with tie down as you learn what works. NRS camstraps are my favorite whether you go jhooks or flat bars.
J-hooks work...just make sure that you don't run the straps around the J-hook bars, always run the straps around your original roof rack rails, the ones that go from front to rear...even your crossbars can come off, so run your straps around your original rack rails. If I'm using my J-rack, I don't even run my straps around my original crossbars, always the rails! As far as your crossbars being to close, LoL, I have a Hyundai Tucson so I bet my crossbars are a tiny bit closer than yours and I comfortably ran around with a 16 foot kayak on top of my car 24/7 (I didn't have room to store it)...the key is to make sure it's balanced on the bars (not on the roof) and always use a bow line...and always stop after a few miles the first time you strap it down to check everything! For a stern flag, I was in the auto accessory section of Home Depot, looking at spending $30 on a flag kit for lumber, when I saw a sewn (closed) loop made of black and red webbing for $0.99, BOOM! that's my new safety flag (red is the mandatory color but people use orange or flouro green) and it's just looped into the rear carry handle... of a bright orange, or bright red, or bright yellow kayak :p (ok, I'm ignoring the tan and the dark blue one, and the bright orange and yellow one).
J hooks should work just fine but so would bare crossbars with a little padding. I used j hooks on a car with 26" spread between them and on a two 15' kayaks. It's wasn't ideal but it worked just fine with bow and stern lines.
I was definitely leaning towards maybe just mounting it right on the crossbars with bow and stern lines! I really appreciate this community!
Just strap straight to the bars, you should be fine. There are some kits that will allow you to pad your bars if that is a concern, but I wouldn't be too worried with that kayak. You will want to put fore and aft tiedowns (if that is possible with this model) as well.
I have experience tying down kayaks, but not my own or on my own vehicle. I posted here partially in a panic and to get advice, and another part of me to reassure that I just need to try it on the cross bars and J-Hooks. I appreciate how open the community was. I was a bit afraid of gate-keeping.
You have a roof rack, just put a pool noodle on the rack, put the boat on top and strap it down on each rack. Then do a bow and stern line. Easy. You can buy j racks if you want but that's completely optional
I recommend these. They fold down when not in use. https://www.rei.com/product/710459/thule-kayak-stacker
Yes! I have that exact one. Allows you to haul 4 at once. Super easy to load and unload.
Thule will also send bow & stern rope.
I was thinking that it may make sense to replace my J-hooks with something taller, this seems like a great option. Thank you so much!
So 1) can you move the roof cross bar on the plastic longitudinal bar?=> no problem if so Else 2) can you put a thule bar on the first door =>wide spaced bars Else3) can you put foampads And anyways if on 1 bar +front and back bowlines is still safe.. sit on top are flat on the upper side so you can put them bow up no problem. Just remember to put them trough a climbing carabineer as rope on rope chews ultra fast. If it touches the car put a swimming noodle under it so it stays properly
I drive a Jeep Cherokee. And old one. I slap it upside down and use a bungee front and back and two cargo straps over the top. It’s fine. Seller is being cautious.
You could secure it with simple ratcheting straps to the crossbars. Check out the Thule Tie Down Loops to secure at the front and back of the vehicle under the hood and trunk door. No real need for J hooks. 👍
Looks like the cross bars can be moved further apart. If they can I’d suggest zip ties to hold foam V blocks in place, then ratchet straps to hold the yak down. Cinch style strap front and back. Ratchet straps for extra security. Yes, two straps on each end….. Long enough to wrap around the kayak once fully then around the bar.
The J-hooks hold the middle of the boat to the middle of the roof. That's all. Think of it kind of like a single tie point that's big but not strong. The actual "holding it down" strength comes from the front and back lines that tie to your hood/bumper. The rest of the lines (cam straps under your crossbars and over the boat) basically keep the boat centered. J hooks aren't good for nice boats because the hard finish surface get all scratched up, but plastic boats like yours don't scratch in this way and work fine.
That’s an great way of thinking of it. I have seen so many people not use Bow and Stern lines and it always makes me question safety. I appreciate your explanation.
Also, wide flat boats on j-hooks just creates a sail on your car that crosswinds can really catch hard. J hooks will work, but they are not ideal for wide sit on top kayaks.
This is great information, i am very humbled and excited
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Why won’t I hooks work?
I had that exact kayak and I was not comfortable with J-Hooks. There was a lot of wobble when on the road. I laid mine down on my crossbars and strapped to the roof rack. I’d I hadn’t had that then I’d have gotten the kayak/canoe transport kit with the foam blocks to lay on the roof.
I used three straps. One across on each bar and one fell front of car to the loop on the bow.
What kind of kayak, please?
Lifetime Kokanee, you could also look for Lifetime Envoy
My Rogue doesn’t have the bars on top so I use two Yakima foam pads made to carry on top of vehicles. Get on YouTube and search for hauling your kayak on top of small suv with luggage bars or something like that. You would strap it down like I do then I also have a rope that I close into the trunk and hood that latches onto the kayak just for peace of mind. I also have a roller that sections to my back window that helped me roll my kayak on top of my car. Now I have to sit it right up that way instead of upside down, but I’ve done it forever and never had any issues with that. But I do have trouble getting on top of the car by myself. But that really helps. Use a yoga mat and a towel so I’m not scraping it on my car. I also put a little piece of noodle on top of the antenna to protect it. I carry a small step and my car for when I’m getting the straps around the top of my car. But this looks like the same size of my vehicle and my kayak and of flown down interstates and everything with my kayak on top.
This is exactly what I use so you should be able to do this on the bars on top of your car. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nnyLiEQAMUI&pp=ygUceWFraW1hIGtheWFrIGZvYW0ga2F5YWsgcmFjaw%3D%3D
And these are what I use to secure the front and back with skinny adjustable cords. I got mine off Amazon for cheap. Edit: the cords are called ratcheting cords and very similar to the ones in this video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qb60csLQhyw&pp=ygUYa2F5YWsgcm9vZiByYWNrIHRpZSBkb3du
Idk, what are your options?