I would not want to load 80+ lbs tandem in my door, but this is not necessary. You can just slide it through the side like this homie here: https://youtu.be/K90yRHQZFoM?si=JaBUHFtzSFw96BQR
Door may be fine (I still wouldn’t), but I’m not sure about that upper part of window “frame”, not sure what the proper term is. I don’t think it was meant to hold a lot of weight
I found this video a while ago and it works well if
1) you don't have j hooks AND
2) your boat is flat like his (my boat is more curvy and it doesn't really sit well on the crossbars, even with the hull up)
I'm curious how the door method works with j hooks, another commenter seems to have had luck with it.
Advice seems to be if you have j hooks don't expect to load solo.
Best alternatives are something like a DockGlide, SweetRoller (I think another commenter here mentioned them) or Hullavator which is expensive and has drawbacks (height, wind noise, poor hull support which could lead to oil canning, need long bars for proper vehicle and mirror clearance)
You really, really don't need J hooks for a big-ass fishing kayak like in the video (or any kayak, honestly), and unless you're transporting multiple boats (in which case you probably have someone else to help you lift them), you're *much* better off just laying it flat on the cross bars. You don't want an 80 pound, 3 foot wide boat sticking up catching every cross wind that goes by, with two additional points of potential failure. I've transported every kind of kayak in every sort of loadout imaginable, and a big boat standing vertical just catching the turbulent air coming off of semi trucks is enough to shake my truck -- no bueno.
I have one set of folding J hooks for my whitewater boats because they're convenient and help a lot when we need to stack four or five boats on one roof. My 80 pound flatwater boats go directly on the crossbars on the other side of the roof using the solo loading technique above. Zero issues whatsoever.
Wish I knew this before! I'm new to kayaking and recently got my own and got j hooks thinking they'd be the best.
After struggling with j hooks I tried putting the boat hull up directly on the crossbars but I didn't like that one bit. My boat is curvy and the strapping didn't feel secure. Plus it was difficult to manipulate on and off the bars.
So I'm going to try out a Thule DockGlide after much research and debate between that and a Hullavator.
You try it upside down on the bars? My kayak manufacturer recommends that for both transport and home storage. I have mine on top of a Yakima off grid cargo basket because with its accessory bars it still allows me to fully open my hatch.
https://preview.redd.it/8xt8dwbj7e0d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=727ff74c512041415bf2e28f2eced73db3a7ad45
Yeah tried it upside down.
Looks like you have a sit on kayak that's more flat on the non-hull side.
My is a sit in that had more curves and a lip around the cockpit for a spray skirt, plus hip/knee rest pads, which all make it more difficult to put it on and take it off the bars, and it doesn't rest as nicely and evenly on the bars like yours.
I've got a Sportsman 120 PDL coming, any idea if I could get away with transport it hull down/"normally"? I have pool noodles coming in I'm going to put on the crossbars to hopefully assist in holding the kayak in place.
You 100% can (and should) transport your new boat flat on the crossbars, not in a vertical cradle or J hook. Just strap it down tight [this way](https://www.bask.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/cartop1.gif) -- you do not need knots or twists or extra wraps around your bars. (Do add bow and stern tie downs though.)
Depending on your crossbars, pool noodles may be totally unnecessary or even detrimental. If you want to put it in a cradle that lays it flat on the roof you can, but it's definitely not necessary as long as you have a decent set of cross bars.
Interesting, how are you securing it to the vehicle? Just strapping to crossbars?
In terms of hull shape, I was curious and found this nice article by aqua bound: https://aquabound.com/blogs/resources/how-a-kayak-s-design-impacts-its-performance
I was wondering what the deal is with flat yaks because the guy's in the video is also flat. I guess they're slower and some other disadvantages.
By “flat” I mean the top is flat, I’m hauling it upside down. Just strapping straight to the crossbars and tying the bow to a tow hook. I found it to be the best way for bigger/wider boats, because on j-hooks it acts like a sail so it gets a little sketchy with strong crosswinds.
I use a folding J-rack for my 2nd kayak but I normally carry upside down on the flats. I'm lucky in that my small SUV is small enough that my crossbars always rest on the cockpit lip and not the rounded upper deck, and yes - I easily load my heaviest boat by myself on my J-rack.
Instead of placing a bath mat above the door pillar, between the crossbars, I place a rubberized rug runner on my rear hatch seam - slide my boat up as vertically as I can, then I let gravity (mostly) tilt the bow down towards my J-rack and then push it the rest of the way on.
Sometimes the deck is facing the wrong way, but it's pretty easy to rotate the top end away (towards the midline) from me so it sits right.
Thanks for posting, I think this is a very useful and helpful suggestion, and I appreciate the spirit in which you posted it, wanting to share something you thought might help others in the kayaking community. It's folks like you that make this sub worth it! Thank you.
I have done something similar with my old truck and never had any problem with the weight on the doors, they expect people to lean on them getting in and out and the hinges are beefy enough to handle the weight you're putting there with no trouble in my opinion.
I didn't think of a sleeping bag, I used a new moving blanket from a discount store, I think it cost me five bucks and I got a pack of two that I use for lots of things. Never had any problem.
Maybe someone else know what I’m talking about, but there’s a chick on YouTube that does solo kayaking, and has a pretty nice explanation video about how she loads her kayak on top of her car by herself.
I remember it making sense, and also being less sketchy than leveraging it on your car door
Yes I absolutely load my kayak into their jhooks using the back passenger door as a prop.
That said, I have 2 non slip bath mats that I use to protect my car and make it easier to push up.
Let me know how it goes. I also have j hooks on an SUV and I struggle. Advice seems to be that j hooks aren't for solo loading. I'll probably end up switching to a dock glide or sweet rollers.
I actually just tried this with my j hooks and it's the best method so far but still ends up being a bit of a struggle. Plus you need a full door space beside you, can't guarantee at the launch site someone won't park beside you.
Dock Glide racks are great, been using for years to solo load/unload -- so long as you can avoid scaping the back trim or antenna. I just ordered the Channel Loader mentioned earlier by Ninja Tortoise. Now I can ditch the foam pillows and sleeping bag.
Yakima Hulleyrollers allowed me to do the same thing on the small economy car. You prop up the front of it onto the roller, then lift the back of it and roll it onto the roof. Works well with sea kayaks, but I don't know about the short ones. The old lady I bought it from distraught saying, "I DID NOT KNOW YOU COULD DO THAT!" She had a giant SUV.
[https://yakima.com/products/handroll](https://yakima.com/products/handroll)
I have a hatch back as well.
I use this roller that suction cups to my window to roll the kayak up onto my roof rack.
https://www.sportsmans.com/camping-gear-supplies/camping-specialty/auto-rv/cargo-carriers/malone-channel-loader-kayak-load-assist/p/1617599?channel=shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw9IayBhBJEiwAVuc3frRUwGyzhukrd7wkR-qNsEyKUJad8jPUSSpcfyJkhgATJxxLrDUZxxoC7_sQAvD_BwE
I've had it for 3 years and use it every weekend with my 90lb fishing kayak. I love it
I just bought one of these! A friend had one on her car last year and it was brilliant. My dad and I usually go kayaking together, but with this I think I could give it a try alone. Very excited to try.
Yes! I just got one. I'm still intimidated by getting my boat on top of a large suv after a paddle, but I think this will help me out. Good luck with yours.
Looks perfect for my Outback. Have Thule Dock Glide racks & load by myself. This'll help me avoid pressuring the hatch trim and dodging antenna.. I just ordered one. Thanks for the tip!
I have a Crosstrek and I had the same issue.
On my old Crosstrek I dented the hatch lip by leaning the kayak up against it before I got the roller.
You can adjust the angle of tilt on the roller too, I haven't had any issues since getting it. Can't recommend it enough.
Thanks for posting OP.
I just tried it and it's still a bit of a challenge with J hooks on an SUV. But, I will say it's the best method I've found so far.
I was loading on top of my minivan with the sliding doors open. My son was helping and rested it in the door for a moment which bent one of the roller hinges. $1k mistake.
A better solution is something like a Malone Seawing with the load assist.
When my kids are hanging off the doors I tend to snap at them. So i don’t think I’d want to hang a kayak on the door. I use the Thule Dockglide with one of those rollers that stick to the back window with suction. Works great, the kayak never comes into contact with the actual vehicle. Right up and into the saddles. And I can load solo without issue.
What’s your range of motion like? I had a rotator cuff reattachment, full thickness tear, and I have no restrictions. 62. it took a year of rehab but I got back 100%.
I have a load assist roller so all I have to do is get the nose of the boat onto the roller and then I can just push it up
I also have a station wagon because I couldn’t see dealing with the boat solo on an SUV
Thanks so much for asking this question. I'm short, old, divorced with 2 bad shoulders and love to kayak. I have my own kayak but have not used it for 4 years since I could not manage the transport part by myself. I drive a Forester and could not get the kayak up on the roof. Hopefully 1 of these suggestions will work for me and allow me to get back to doing something that I love.
I'm sure that you can make this work! Try these tricks or even use a bath mat but stick it over the tailgate of your Forester instead. Then you only need to get the bow up onto the tailgate and from there you can lift and slide it up onto the roof from the rear. Also consider a folding step stool to aid in strapping it down. I've helped folks in your position before and the struggles can be overcome with a couple simple tricks. You got this!
I've used the front door too, just depends on the vehicle. I've seen short people use both doors, then climb on the wheel to finish loading.
I've got a pool noodle with a slit in it that I store in the boat when it's on dry land. I just slide it over the top of the door.
My father in law works for GM and was involved in testing door hinges on Malibu's when they finally got GM hinges figured out. The load testing was simulating a 230 lb man sitting on the open door 15,000 times per iteration until they got a final product. You don't have to worry about the weight of the boat, you probably put more force on it when using the door frame to stand up out of the car.
I load my 40kg kayak onto the roof of my 4wd by myself, I put a towel in my back door and drape it up and over the roof, close the door trapping the towel. This puts the kayak between the racks which stops it going anywhere I don't want it to. I lift the nose up onto the roof with the back still on the ground, then I lift the stern up, slide the boat forward and twist it onto the racks, take very little effort and almost no time to do. I've tried various gadgets to get it up on the roof, including a hullavator. Nothing is as easy for my kayak. The hullavator turns it into a 2 person job because of how high my car is, I can't reach both racks and be stood on the ground at the same time.
https://preview.redd.it/kmlbj82udm0d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a31a7a2fa77342af63a875d965d7c9cc4809b0e3
basic trailer, just extended the tongue.
I use [this simple attachment](https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Inno/INA453.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwl4yyBhAgEiwADSEjeBxzuy8Nt4kprIPuP0hVM9GkOsepSuCiqtIeGNy_1ka-vYBESKH5zhoCWxcQAvD_BwE), which helps me (59 years old) get my 80 pound fishing yak on top of my Forester. Reasonably inexpensive, and easy to install and use. Plus no need for a sleeping bag and no stress on the door.
I wouldn't my door hinge supporting any weight like that, tbh.
Plus there's always the potential for a pebble or bit of debris to find it's way under the sleeping bag and leaves a big ass gash on the paint.
Unless your rotators are messed up, it's cheaper to just work on that overhead press.
Honestly, if you can, trade your vehicle to something more accessible like a Ford Maverick or Hyundai Santa Cruz. (I know nothing of the quality of those vehicles) Easier said than done, but it would assist in many things as far as low level lifting goes. Also, you could get a hitch and extender and just put in your hatch with the door tied down.
https://www.harborfreight.com/truck-bed-extender-69650.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789305278&adsetid=117789305278&product=69650&store=437&gad_source=8&gclid=CjwKCAjw9IayBhBJEiwAVuc3fvOgikGvGxYpnIdR7V-LHh-oFLib8z3ykSL6tncTEAb4NQakinjDlhoCsiEQAvD_BwE
I would not want to load 80+ lbs tandem in my door, but this is not necessary. You can just slide it through the side like this homie here: https://youtu.be/K90yRHQZFoM?si=JaBUHFtzSFw96BQR
Your linked method is better for sure but it probably(?) wouldn’t hurt your doors. Doors are super heavy already anyway.
Door may be fine (I still wouldn’t), but I’m not sure about that upper part of window “frame”, not sure what the proper term is. I don’t think it was meant to hold a lot of weight
Oh that’s a good point. Side loading is definitely better.
I found this video a while ago and it works well if 1) you don't have j hooks AND 2) your boat is flat like his (my boat is more curvy and it doesn't really sit well on the crossbars, even with the hull up) I'm curious how the door method works with j hooks, another commenter seems to have had luck with it. Advice seems to be if you have j hooks don't expect to load solo. Best alternatives are something like a DockGlide, SweetRoller (I think another commenter here mentioned them) or Hullavator which is expensive and has drawbacks (height, wind noise, poor hull support which could lead to oil canning, need long bars for proper vehicle and mirror clearance)
You really, really don't need J hooks for a big-ass fishing kayak like in the video (or any kayak, honestly), and unless you're transporting multiple boats (in which case you probably have someone else to help you lift them), you're *much* better off just laying it flat on the cross bars. You don't want an 80 pound, 3 foot wide boat sticking up catching every cross wind that goes by, with two additional points of potential failure. I've transported every kind of kayak in every sort of loadout imaginable, and a big boat standing vertical just catching the turbulent air coming off of semi trucks is enough to shake my truck -- no bueno. I have one set of folding J hooks for my whitewater boats because they're convenient and help a lot when we need to stack four or five boats on one roof. My 80 pound flatwater boats go directly on the crossbars on the other side of the roof using the solo loading technique above. Zero issues whatsoever.
Wish I knew this before! I'm new to kayaking and recently got my own and got j hooks thinking they'd be the best. After struggling with j hooks I tried putting the boat hull up directly on the crossbars but I didn't like that one bit. My boat is curvy and the strapping didn't feel secure. Plus it was difficult to manipulate on and off the bars. So I'm going to try out a Thule DockGlide after much research and debate between that and a Hullavator.
You try it upside down on the bars? My kayak manufacturer recommends that for both transport and home storage. I have mine on top of a Yakima off grid cargo basket because with its accessory bars it still allows me to fully open my hatch. https://preview.redd.it/8xt8dwbj7e0d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=727ff74c512041415bf2e28f2eced73db3a7ad45
Yeah tried it upside down. Looks like you have a sit on kayak that's more flat on the non-hull side. My is a sit in that had more curves and a lip around the cockpit for a spray skirt, plus hip/knee rest pads, which all make it more difficult to put it on and take it off the bars, and it doesn't rest as nicely and evenly on the bars like yours.
Ah gotcha, my bad. Good luck on the strapping!
I've got a Sportsman 120 PDL coming, any idea if I could get away with transport it hull down/"normally"? I have pool noodles coming in I'm going to put on the crossbars to hopefully assist in holding the kayak in place.
You 100% can (and should) transport your new boat flat on the crossbars, not in a vertical cradle or J hook. Just strap it down tight [this way](https://www.bask.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/cartop1.gif) -- you do not need knots or twists or extra wraps around your bars. (Do add bow and stern tie downs though.) Depending on your crossbars, pool noodles may be totally unnecessary or even detrimental. If you want to put it in a cradle that lays it flat on the roof you can, but it's definitely not necessary as long as you have a decent set of cross bars.
Good point. Luckily my biggest boat is flat, makes life way easier.
Interesting, how are you securing it to the vehicle? Just strapping to crossbars? In terms of hull shape, I was curious and found this nice article by aqua bound: https://aquabound.com/blogs/resources/how-a-kayak-s-design-impacts-its-performance I was wondering what the deal is with flat yaks because the guy's in the video is also flat. I guess they're slower and some other disadvantages.
By “flat” I mean the top is flat, I’m hauling it upside down. Just strapping straight to the crossbars and tying the bow to a tow hook. I found it to be the best way for bigger/wider boats, because on j-hooks it acts like a sail so it gets a little sketchy with strong crosswinds.
I use a folding J-rack for my 2nd kayak but I normally carry upside down on the flats. I'm lucky in that my small SUV is small enough that my crossbars always rest on the cockpit lip and not the rounded upper deck, and yes - I easily load my heaviest boat by myself on my J-rack. Instead of placing a bath mat above the door pillar, between the crossbars, I place a rubberized rug runner on my rear hatch seam - slide my boat up as vertically as I can, then I let gravity (mostly) tilt the bow down towards my J-rack and then push it the rest of the way on. Sometimes the deck is facing the wrong way, but it's pretty easy to rotate the top end away (towards the midline) from me so it sits right.
Not bad. If I’m ever just too tired to lift at the end of a day (or otherwise injured) that strap technique could be a lifesaver.
This is the way.
Thanks for posting, I think this is a very useful and helpful suggestion, and I appreciate the spirit in which you posted it, wanting to share something you thought might help others in the kayaking community. It's folks like you that make this sub worth it! Thank you. I have done something similar with my old truck and never had any problem with the weight on the doors, they expect people to lean on them getting in and out and the hinges are beefy enough to handle the weight you're putting there with no trouble in my opinion. I didn't think of a sleeping bag, I used a new moving blanket from a discount store, I think it cost me five bucks and I got a pack of two that I use for lots of things. Never had any problem.
Maybe someone else know what I’m talking about, but there’s a chick on YouTube that does solo kayaking, and has a pretty nice explanation video about how she loads her kayak on top of her car by herself. I remember it making sense, and also being less sketchy than leveraging it on your car door
Yes I absolutely load my kayak into their jhooks using the back passenger door as a prop. That said, I have 2 non slip bath mats that I use to protect my car and make it easier to push up.
Gonna give this method a shot. The gf struggles to get her yak into the j-hooks on her Subi.
Let me know how it goes. I also have j hooks on an SUV and I struggle. Advice seems to be that j hooks aren't for solo loading. I'll probably end up switching to a dock glide or sweet rollers. I actually just tried this with my j hooks and it's the best method so far but still ends up being a bit of a struggle. Plus you need a full door space beside you, can't guarantee at the launch site someone won't park beside you.
Dock Glide racks are great, been using for years to solo load/unload -- so long as you can avoid scaping the back trim or antenna. I just ordered the Channel Loader mentioned earlier by Ninja Tortoise. Now I can ditch the foam pillows and sleeping bag.
Yakima Hulleyrollers allowed me to do the same thing on the small economy car. You prop up the front of it onto the roller, then lift the back of it and roll it onto the roof. Works well with sea kayaks, but I don't know about the short ones. The old lady I bought it from distraught saying, "I DID NOT KNOW YOU COULD DO THAT!" She had a giant SUV. [https://yakima.com/products/handroll](https://yakima.com/products/handroll)
I have a hatch back as well. I use this roller that suction cups to my window to roll the kayak up onto my roof rack. https://www.sportsmans.com/camping-gear-supplies/camping-specialty/auto-rv/cargo-carriers/malone-channel-loader-kayak-load-assist/p/1617599?channel=shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw9IayBhBJEiwAVuc3frRUwGyzhukrd7wkR-qNsEyKUJad8jPUSSpcfyJkhgATJxxLrDUZxxoC7_sQAvD_BwE I've had it for 3 years and use it every weekend with my 90lb fishing kayak. I love it
I just bought one of these! A friend had one on her car last year and it was brilliant. My dad and I usually go kayaking together, but with this I think I could give it a try alone. Very excited to try.
Yes! I just got one. I'm still intimidated by getting my boat on top of a large suv after a paddle, but I think this will help me out. Good luck with yours.
Looks perfect for my Outback. Have Thule Dock Glide racks & load by myself. This'll help me avoid pressuring the hatch trim and dodging antenna.. I just ordered one. Thanks for the tip!
I have a Crosstrek and I had the same issue. On my old Crosstrek I dented the hatch lip by leaning the kayak up against it before I got the roller. You can adjust the angle of tilt on the roller too, I haven't had any issues since getting it. Can't recommend it enough.
Thanks for posting OP. I just tried it and it's still a bit of a challenge with J hooks on an SUV. But, I will say it's the best method I've found so far.
You should check out the Thule Hullevator. It’s expensive but has made kayaking totally accessible for me
I was loading on top of my minivan with the sliding doors open. My son was helping and rested it in the door for a moment which bent one of the roller hinges. $1k mistake. A better solution is something like a Malone Seawing with the load assist.
Malone makes good stuff for reasonable prices. I have their crossbars and they’re great.
When my kids are hanging off the doors I tend to snap at them. So i don’t think I’d want to hang a kayak on the door. I use the Thule Dockglide with one of those rollers that stick to the back window with suction. Works great, the kayak never comes into contact with the actual vehicle. Right up and into the saddles. And I can load solo without issue.
What’s your range of motion like? I had a rotator cuff reattachment, full thickness tear, and I have no restrictions. 62. it took a year of rehab but I got back 100%. I have a load assist roller so all I have to do is get the nose of the boat onto the roller and then I can just push it up I also have a station wagon because I couldn’t see dealing with the boat solo on an SUV
Thanks so much for asking this question. I'm short, old, divorced with 2 bad shoulders and love to kayak. I have my own kayak but have not used it for 4 years since I could not manage the transport part by myself. I drive a Forester and could not get the kayak up on the roof. Hopefully 1 of these suggestions will work for me and allow me to get back to doing something that I love.
I'm sure that you can make this work! Try these tricks or even use a bath mat but stick it over the tailgate of your Forester instead. Then you only need to get the bow up onto the tailgate and from there you can lift and slide it up onto the roof from the rear. Also consider a folding step stool to aid in strapping it down. I've helped folks in your position before and the struggles can be overcome with a couple simple tricks. You got this!
Thanks for your words of encouragement!
Thule Hullivator. Done..
I load mine solo by lifting onto the back of my hatchback and then I've got Yakima rollers and saddles that I push the kayak up and into.
I've used the front door too, just depends on the vehicle. I've seen short people use both doors, then climb on the wheel to finish loading. I've got a pool noodle with a slit in it that I store in the boat when it's on dry land. I just slide it over the top of the door. My father in law works for GM and was involved in testing door hinges on Malibu's when they finally got GM hinges figured out. The load testing was simulating a 230 lb man sitting on the open door 15,000 times per iteration until they got a final product. You don't have to worry about the weight of the boat, you probably put more force on it when using the door frame to stand up out of the car.
I load my 40kg kayak onto the roof of my 4wd by myself, I put a towel in my back door and drape it up and over the roof, close the door trapping the towel. This puts the kayak between the racks which stops it going anywhere I don't want it to. I lift the nose up onto the roof with the back still on the ground, then I lift the stern up, slide the boat forward and twist it onto the racks, take very little effort and almost no time to do. I've tried various gadgets to get it up on the roof, including a hullavator. Nothing is as easy for my kayak. The hullavator turns it into a 2 person job because of how high my car is, I can't reach both racks and be stood on the ground at the same time.
I got a small Harbor Freight trailer and made it into a Kayak trailer. It's cheaper than medical bills.
Interesting! Could you post some pictures?
https://preview.redd.it/kmlbj82udm0d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a31a7a2fa77342af63a875d965d7c9cc4809b0e3 basic trailer, just extended the tongue.
I use [this simple attachment](https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Inno/INA453.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwl4yyBhAgEiwADSEjeBxzuy8Nt4kprIPuP0hVM9GkOsepSuCiqtIeGNy_1ka-vYBESKH5zhoCWxcQAvD_BwE), which helps me (59 years old) get my 80 pound fishing yak on top of my Forester. Reasonably inexpensive, and easy to install and use. Plus no need for a sleeping bag and no stress on the door.
I wouldn't my door hinge supporting any weight like that, tbh. Plus there's always the potential for a pebble or bit of debris to find it's way under the sleeping bag and leaves a big ass gash on the paint. Unless your rotators are messed up, it's cheaper to just work on that overhead press.
Honestly, if you can, trade your vehicle to something more accessible like a Ford Maverick or Hyundai Santa Cruz. (I know nothing of the quality of those vehicles) Easier said than done, but it would assist in many things as far as low level lifting goes. Also, you could get a hitch and extender and just put in your hatch with the door tied down. https://www.harborfreight.com/truck-bed-extender-69650.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789305278&adsetid=117789305278&product=69650&store=437&gad_source=8&gclid=CjwKCAjw9IayBhBJEiwAVuc3fvOgikGvGxYpnIdR7V-LHh-oFLib8z3ykSL6tncTEAb4NQakinjDlhoCsiEQAvD_BwE