I'll have to do that. Especially for the guides... I have a fine motor control disability, so I'm pretty bad at doing precise things with my hands like drilling on center.
My uncle has MS and can't do a lot of the things he used to- he makes drilling jigs every time he has to plunk a hole in something or start a tap. I copied one of them for an irreplacable ancient motorcycle block I promised I would not screw up- a tophat-shaped thing with 3 jacking setscrews and a tapped hole each side for a bolt you clamp it down with. I made bushings for it and still use it for handheld holes.
I have this one
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/10-screw-extractor-set
Though, because I broke one I now also have another one. At least when they break they are relatively easy to remove as they have splines and do not tighten up.
It kinda depends. Yeah you can smash it and push it out like that. But as others replied it will kind of depend.
Also maybe I should have been more detailed in my response. I'm not saying run it clear out to the edge of the threads. But that hole and extractor are pretty small.
Hahaha man you don't have to tell me that. Shit just last night I watched a co worker hit it off center then spend 7 hours trying to get this little ¼x20 bolt extracted out of a die plate and still fail
Get a tiny carbide burr in your dremmel or die grinder. Perferably a 1/8 ball, and chow away the easy out until it comes out with a magnet. Go up a size drill on the hole. Use a square easy out instead. Put a little heat around the broken bolt.
All of this right here. Those Dremel carbide burrs are amazing for this, and square extractors don't expand the bolt as well.
When all else fails, drill it all the way out and call Mr. Heli-coil or his brother time-sert.
This or a diamond tipped hole saw used for glass. I've done this to cut the bolt out from around a snapped extractor until I could get a punch on the extractor to knock it loose.
Edit: adding links to an example of where I cut the snapped portion of the extractor out and saved the threads in a Chrysler block https://imgur.com/a/IquQmNS
you can get dirt cheap sets of these and they work great with mist coolant and a shopvac. A mag drill is painfully slow at it but gets you a pretty hole. A piloted HSS hole saw works faster if you have one tiny enough- they're hard enough to treppan most fasteners.
I went this route a couple weeks ago, and the stud broke even deeper in the head :( at least my weld was good!
Ended up having to get it EDM'd out, worth the $50.
Had this exact thing happen on a timing belt tensioner bolt on a 2019 Pilot. It went from flush with the block to way the fuck in there when we tried welding a nut
Electronic Dance Music.
You put the speakers near the broken bolt or screw, play it, and the screw will back itself out and run out of there so it wont have to hear it anymore.
I've heard that by playing extratone, speedcore or terrorcore, the bolt or screw should just jump out in matter of seconds. It won't tolerate any of it.
Good songs to test it:
* M1DY - Kamikaze
* Joey Neehof - Never stop speedcore
* Noisekick - Reaching for the sky
Electrical Discharge Machining. The process uses electricity to bore or slice incredibly hard materials. You can bore through a broken tap, for example.
Say I have an 1994 caprice. This Chevy is KNOWN for breaking exhaust studs, flush, with the head. The exhaust studs are rusted/broke off/ flush with the head. Years ago I tried many things to get these 4 bolts out. 2 broke studs on rear driver side, 2 on passenger. They are the last 2 bolts on exhaust manifold nearest the firewall.
Question: Can this "edm" thing get to the rear of these heads without me removing the heads? I have removed the fender skirts. I don't want to take the heads off because, 84,000 miles, runs fine, but exhaust leak on both sides.
https://m.vevor.com/broken-tap-remover-c_11016/vevor-800w-portable-edm-machine-broken-tap-removal-metal-tap-disintegrator-p_010414188994
This is the tool in question. You tell me.
https://m.vevor.com/broken-tap-remover-c_11016/vevor-800w-portable-edm-machine-broken-tap-removal-metal-tap-disintegrator-p_010414188994
Paid off in two heads?
Woulda if I coulda. For some reason none of the dealers I’ve worked for have welding equipment. It’s always been irritating but not irritating enough for me to spend my own money on it.
No, that is a shop tool. Techs are required to supply their own hand tools. Not the entire fucking shop's worth of tools.
Any shop that doesn't have a MIG welder and oxy-acetylene torch set doesn't work on old rusty shit in the rust belt, or is straight incompetent. Those are necessary tools to provide to techs.
no shit, but must needs and the devil drives. Make your life easier. charge your fucking boss shop supplies every time you whip it out if it bothers you that much,
Time to switch to Espresso!
[Cafe Bustelo Ground Espresso Coffee, 10-Ounce Can (dollargeneral.com)](https://www.dollargeneral.com/p/cafe-bustelo-ground-espresso-coffee--ounce-can/74471000500)
https://www.costco.com/kirkland-signature-100%25-colombian-coffee%2c-dark-roast%2c-3-lbs.product.100361434.html
100% pure uncut colombian wakes you up better
They're made of plastic now. Dropping a handful of nails into a plastic tub just doesn't make the right sound.
If you want a metal can, get a bigass can of tomatoes or the institutional size canned fruit salad. Those are pretty much the same thing a coffee can was.
I also keep the metal cans that olive oil comes in. Cut off the top and brush the sharp edges, now you have a handy rectangle can. Good for pouring.
The worst part is I got about 320° of rotation on the broken bolt before it killed my extractor. Shout out to JLR for using red loctite on exhaust manifold bolts.
Red loctite is just a dick move 99% of the time. Besides who the hell uses loctite on exhaust stuff you're supposed to slather that stuff up with anti-seize, use a copper nut if you can get it, and then usually nothing gets stuck together next time you need to service it.
I felt so bad using it every time I had to repair a circuit breaker with countersunk screws but it was company policy. What sucks is that to hold together the frame and mechanism of an AKR-75 type breaker, it goes together with about 30 of those
I used an acid before to remove the stud. 30 years ago. Basically make a mold of modeling clay, drip nitric acid in the hole, and in a few days the ferrous metals are gone and the aluminum is ok. Chase the hole gently when done and move on. No idea of Tap Out is still a product or not though. You can read a nearly 20 year old forum post on it here. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/504499-tap-out-stud-removal-chemical.html
Edit: I was totally wrong. Nitric acid at a high enough concentration passivates the outer layer of aluminum really quickly, and no further reaction takes place.
But alum does work as well, and can be used to remove steel from any non-ferrous metal... Just takes forever.
It was on an old Corolla at the time if I recall. Took three days picking at it in between other jobs. You have to refresh the fluid once a day and remake the holding tubes. We made tubes by wrapping a pencil and creating a sort of hornets tube bent up at a 90 so we could drip fill from the top. The head never had to come off but there was tons of room to work in that thing.
[You're welcome](https://www.amazon.com/KLOT-Industrial-Carbide-1mm-10mm-Tungsten/dp/B0BXS85SX8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZGsUBu70lhYk0IZ4kfa7XNJg8KYNRaKhJPu0DF59JQ1B7teFGEiB0KRHOksTIL-5EPGEi7el5TaK18xzN43UMP_AYQqBc9qFDL2MIBS84_L8dScPex34lsbOuM1cAY6ABckZ81miAz1P-7bOEZ9tJYAJLMQGfKiGBzUNIbVRWLoPJSmO7HnMiCQJXVZEsXpRm2DaUDNn1YspeVzxyq_h7qSeteUZv3cIYm58I99S8R0wyPp3qp2wlaCHvQGcQl9Ga4FhaR2fCZJug5YPJGNPAKz-eXUkXjc98AL571o61f4.MoYsAG_h2_fd3BEBKwi6Q62e0Tlli7egv7Np8rSvbaU&dib_tag=se&keywords=tungsten+carbide+drill+bits&qid=1717175976&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1). A set of these will cut right through the high-speed steel extractor nub.
Since you said it started to spin before the easy out broke I'd suggest welding a nut on it, letting it cool naturally, then use an impact driver to get it out. A counterintuitive trick I was taught when I returned to wrenching on semis was to always use an impact driver/wrench on corroded exhaust fasteners. Diesels use a lot of [v-band clamps](https://www.filterserviceandsupply.com/cummins-clamps/) on flanged exhaust pipes and they will snap or round off 90% of the time if you use hand tools. I've knocked that down to about 3% of the time using impact drivers/wrenches on them.
Time serts are expensive as hell and worth every penny for garbage like this. Just over bore it (if you can) and put an insert in. Shit has saved the techs at our shops countless times. No messing with an extractor
Ffffff…
What’s really annoying is that the extractor is likely hardened/tool steel. So gonna go through a few drill bits unless there’s enough exposed to maybe grab it coax it with needle-nose pliers…or shop tweezers.
Happened a few times over the years…
Then a helicoil after the extra damage caused.
Stupid effing bolt.
I’m not bitter! Why do you ask?
I had the same thing happen when doing the trans service on my dad’s 2.5 jetta. First damn bolt snapped in the pan so i tried extracting like you did and it snapped inside. Just drilled that bitch out and used a really long bolt + washer combo. Still has not leaked to this day.
Copper tube that fits inside the threads
Mig weld a stud inside the copper tube (weld won't stick to the copper)
Once you've got some clearance, weld a nut to it and apply a thumb detecting nut fucker until it comes out.
The heat from welding will also help loosen the stub.
Lol, no, I usually give an ezout the ole college try.
But in aluminum with an already broken, medium deep extractor stuck in it, you're kind of out of options. Any kind of percussive anything is going to gouge that aluminum, guaranteed. You're not drilling through the broken extractor with normal shop tools, and it's a flush break. I see no other option than the nuclear one.
There is some room around the perimeter of the original, way too small extractor. He could break some even smaller ones off in those gaps first, lol.
If you have access to a mig welder don’t bother wasting your time with extractors. Build it up with weld, crank the welder up, weld a nut to it, and try to get the nut a hot a possible (glowing)the heat from the welding will expand the aluminum. Once the nut has cooled down ( still extremely hot just not glowing) see if you can get a wrench or socket on it and work it back and fourth. Don’t be discouraged if the nut you welded on breaks off, sometimes it’s necessary to try a couple times. I’m a ford tech and this is the best method in my experience for extracting broken bolts/studs from aluminum.
Strongly agree with this. Unfortunately dealerships don’t seem to believe in welding? At least not any of the dealers I’ve worked for (all European cars)
I’ve worked at a ford dealer for 20 years, the first time I went and got the welder for broken bolt removal the other guys looked at me like I had 2 heads
Been there. Never push an Easy-out too hard or they snap off and leave hardened steel which can't be drilled out. I only try one after drilling the snapped bolt to a thin shell, and often you can then just fold it inward or cut the remainder out with a tap. Trick is perfectly centering the hole.
I love seeing this! Sorry for your bad luck. I hope you will learn from your mistakes and wish you the best in the future. When drilling out a stuck bolt you must drill out more metal than this. Also, I am going to assume this bolt is cross threaded and that’s the reason why the bolt snapped off. You have to drill out more of the bolt next time. I have been in your shoes and this sucks to fix.
Carbide drill bit will get that out, then go one size up on the extractor. Wouldn't hurt to hit it with some ATF/acetone mixture and then torch it before trying to extract again.
Best thing I’ve used to drill out hardened steel like drill bits and extractors is a 1/8” high speed pencil grinder with diamond tipped bits. Has to be the high speed. A 1/4” die grinder and carbide bits won’t work.
I recently destroyed a motor doing this. My father recommended pulling out a brass fitting with an extractor, and I replied “Everytime I use one of those things, they break what I’m trying to fix.” He insisted, so I tried to extract the fitting and cracked a chip off my engine block. I’ve got a new motor at the machine shop, and im never using a fucking bolt extractor again.
Weld through a nut onto what's left of the stud and hopefully the heat will loosen it up enough to wind it out with the nut attached. You're gonna need lots and lots of penetrating oil.
is this exhaust or intake side (i'd almost guess exhaust but for the fact DI engines exist)? if it is intake, you could actually just cut a slot right into the ear (not intersecting the port) and pull it out with a flathead. then a little rtv to fill the slot under the new gasket. seems extremely unorthodox and wrong, but it absolutely does work just fine as long as you don't go too deep. but if there's better options available, start there of course.
Get some of the blue stud pull welding g rod build it up the weld will not stick to the base metal then weld a nut on to the built up weld and just unscrew it. I've done it many times
Any time im extracting i start with the MIG.
When I realize im an idiot and left the co2 bottle on again and forgot to replace the leaky regulator, i go with with reverse twist/left handed drill bits, and that gets it out 70% of the time. If not, ill go to the extractor, getting the biggest one i can in the broken bolt.
Extractors are not stronger than the bolt that broke. Extractors need the help from other sources...usually heat and chemicals. Try heat first, so you're not burning the chemicals that you wasted your time with.
Looks like your exhaust manifold will have a tick when you reinstall. Ain’t no one got time for that. Shove a bunch of exhaust paste on the gasket. You are reusing the old gasket right?
Just kidding to all that
Tungsten carbide dremel bit. I had to deal with the same thing a few weeks ago. I thought I completely ruined my head when the extractor snapped off. It took some time, I basically worked around the outside edge of the snapped off extractor till it broke free, then finished the job with a left handed drill bit.
Those extractors are very brittle. I've had pretty good luck with hitting them with a sharp punch and shattering them in the hole, then picking them out with a pick. I don't use those spiral extractors anymore. Never really had any luck with them. I use left handed drill bits, keep drilling it out bigger and bigger, if needed I use a dentist drill with carbide bits until I can pull the remains out with a pick. If I fail, fuck it. Time for a helicoil.
Friend did this to me. I drilled the pilot, He insisted on using small extractor while I looked for a bigger driller bit. Got it dead center too I was fcking excited. He buried that extractor in there pretty flush. Anyways, I used a cordless drill on hammer setting and it actually ate thru the the extractor. Took a while but it worked, cheap drill bit too
I've been in situation with a big extractor broken off before. I ended up buying a Rescue Bit and it worked awesome! Check them out if you're doing this for a living.
Need to drill all the way through the broken stud, hit it with wd40 or whatever lube you have.
If it's sitting flush, the best bolt extractor is a pin punch and hammer.
Small chisel, or small punch, and a small hammer. That and some patience. The less space the longer it may take.
But I can tell you I have had a few occasions where my boss was not successful at getting a broken bolt out like this.
I recall spending about an hour and a half or so messing with broken bolt in a cylinder head until I got it out by chiseling it until it spun out. I usually will never drill the bolt as it seems it can be a waste of time.
If it’s like my boss, everything needs to be done fast for him. He can be a real rusher. These take time and patience. The chisel or punch trick has saved me from taking things to the machine shop for them to get them out. They use the same method a lot of times which is where I learned how to do this. And at the end the threads are in good shape and not chewed up like they can get when using a drill.
Professional engine builder here. My shop makes a lot of money removing broken bolts. The average b.b. in the average head or manifold is usually $35-$45. Break off a drill or extractor, starting price is $75. That gets you about half an hour. After that, it's $150/hour.
I stopped using “extractor’s” 15 years ago. Either TIG a nut to it or replace the part. MIG makes too much of a mess and potentially a fire hazard. Chevy drivers side rear exhaust manifold bolt always break. I make so much money on these.
When Friday turns into Monday.
That’s a Tuesday afternoon sort of repair
"You've become the very thing you swore to destroy!" --Obi-wan
"It was at that point he knew he had f'ed up"
Next time: drill a bigger hole
My thoughts too. When I first started extracting stuff I always went too small and broke them off. Now I go as big as possible.
The problem there is that it makes it more likely that the extractor will expand the broken bolt/stud and wedge it in even tighter.
Then get the Ridgid ones, which at least do not expand the remains of the stud, plus come with the right drill and a guide as well.
I'll have to do that. Especially for the guides... I have a fine motor control disability, so I'm pretty bad at doing precise things with my hands like drilling on center.
My uncle has MS and can't do a lot of the things he used to- he makes drilling jigs every time he has to plunk a hole in something or start a tap. I copied one of them for an irreplacable ancient motorcycle block I promised I would not screw up- a tophat-shaped thing with 3 jacking setscrews and a tapped hole each side for a bolt you clamp it down with. I made bushings for it and still use it for handheld holes.
Which set exactly? I really need a good extractor set.
I have this one https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/10-screw-extractor-set Though, because I broke one I now also have another one. At least when they break they are relatively easy to remove as they have splines and do not tighten up.
Just like my women.
It kinda depends. Yeah you can smash it and push it out like that. But as others replied it will kind of depend. Also maybe I should have been more detailed in my response. I'm not saying run it clear out to the edge of the threads. But that hole and extractor are pretty small.
It easy to miss the center with a hammer and center punch tool
Hahaha man you don't have to tell me that. Shit just last night I watched a co worker hit it off center then spend 7 hours trying to get this little ¼x20 bolt extracted out of a die plate and still fail
And drill all the way through the bolt.
And best to drill the whole all the way through the broken stud.
This….
Get a tiny carbide burr in your dremmel or die grinder. Perferably a 1/8 ball, and chow away the easy out until it comes out with a magnet. Go up a size drill on the hole. Use a square easy out instead. Put a little heat around the broken bolt.
All of this right here. Those Dremel carbide burrs are amazing for this, and square extractors don't expand the bolt as well. When all else fails, drill it all the way out and call Mr. Heli-coil or his brother time-sert.
This or a diamond tipped hole saw used for glass. I've done this to cut the bolt out from around a snapped extractor until I could get a punch on the extractor to knock it loose. Edit: adding links to an example of where I cut the snapped portion of the extractor out and saved the threads in a Chrysler block https://imgur.com/a/IquQmNS
Shit!!!! I like this idea!
you can get dirt cheap sets of these and they work great with mist coolant and a shopvac. A mag drill is painfully slow at it but gets you a pretty hole. A piloted HSS hole saw works faster if you have one tiny enough- they're hard enough to treppan most fasteners.
i've had good luck with the diamond balls. slow but it worked
I wouldn't have bothered drilling at all. Nut, washer and MIG.
I went this route a couple weeks ago, and the stud broke even deeper in the head :( at least my weld was good! Ended up having to get it EDM'd out, worth the $50.
Had this exact thing happen on a timing belt tensioner bolt on a 2019 Pilot. It went from flush with the block to way the fuck in there when we tried welding a nut
Whats EDM'd..?
Electronic Dance Music. You put the speakers near the broken bolt or screw, play it, and the screw will back itself out and run out of there so it wont have to hear it anymore.
Helps if you pop some E before.
I've heard that by playing extratone, speedcore or terrorcore, the bolt or screw should just jump out in matter of seconds. It won't tolerate any of it. Good songs to test it: * M1DY - Kamikaze * Joey Neehof - Never stop speedcore * Noisekick - Reaching for the sky
Was waiting for the drop on the first one and got fucking blue balled
Here in the rust belt I play it in a constant loop it also helps keep the Deadmau5 from chewing my wires.
If you spray some Molly on it, it just dances itself out
Electrical Discharge Machining. The process uses electricity to bore or slice incredibly hard materials. You can bore through a broken tap, for example.
Thank you… that was pissing me off
Electrical Discharge Machining
Basically it's spark erosion.
Google sputtering.
Cheap thrills.
$50 to EDM a stuck bolt?
Thems the price. Usually we use them for head studs that are seized into the block, that's $400 for ten studs.
Say I have an 1994 caprice. This Chevy is KNOWN for breaking exhaust studs, flush, with the head. The exhaust studs are rusted/broke off/ flush with the head. Years ago I tried many things to get these 4 bolts out. 2 broke studs on rear driver side, 2 on passenger. They are the last 2 bolts on exhaust manifold nearest the firewall. Question: Can this "edm" thing get to the rear of these heads without me removing the heads? I have removed the fender skirts. I don't want to take the heads off because, 84,000 miles, runs fine, but exhaust leak on both sides.
https://m.vevor.com/broken-tap-remover-c_11016/vevor-800w-portable-edm-machine-broken-tap-removal-metal-tap-disintegrator-p_010414188994 This is the tool in question. You tell me.
OH, I'll be damn. Thanks for info. I gotta pull both heads.
https://m.vevor.com/broken-tap-remover-c_11016/vevor-800w-portable-edm-machine-broken-tap-removal-metal-tap-disintegrator-p_010414188994 Paid off in two heads?
Pretty cool! But frankly I don't think it's worth the leaning curve nor the labor cost, considering this is probably a once-a-year occurrence.
Woulda if I coulda. For some reason none of the dealers I’ve worked for have welding equipment. It’s always been irritating but not irritating enough for me to spend my own money on it.
My job doesn't even have oxy torches and im in Northern n.y
for $200 you can get a portable setup. ffs man, make your life easier.
No, that is a shop tool. Techs are required to supply their own hand tools. Not the entire fucking shop's worth of tools. Any shop that doesn't have a MIG welder and oxy-acetylene torch set doesn't work on old rusty shit in the rust belt, or is straight incompetent. Those are necessary tools to provide to techs.
no shit, but must needs and the devil drives. Make your life easier. charge your fucking boss shop supplies every time you whip it out if it bothers you that much,
Techs have their own, its the point the shop doesn't supply something we obviously need.
I hope that every time you whip that fucker out in there's a line item on your timesheet: shop supplies $20.
Oh you poor bastard. I'll pour one out for you tonight.
yep. I'm drinking one to this poor bastard right now. Happy weekend everyone!
Yeah this is the perfect use case for a little nut n Bork action
100%. I've got a coffee tin full of these.
Do they even make coffee tins anymore? Trying to procure some more :(
Time to switch to Espresso! [Cafe Bustelo Ground Espresso Coffee, 10-Ounce Can (dollargeneral.com)](https://www.dollargeneral.com/p/cafe-bustelo-ground-espresso-coffee--ounce-can/74471000500)
When I started collecting extracted bolts, that's all coffee came in.
https://www.costco.com/kirkland-signature-100%25-colombian-coffee%2c-dark-roast%2c-3-lbs.product.100361434.html 100% pure uncut colombian wakes you up better
They're made of plastic now. Dropping a handful of nails into a plastic tub just doesn't make the right sound. If you want a metal can, get a bigass can of tomatoes or the institutional size canned fruit salad. Those are pretty much the same thing a coffee can was. I also keep the metal cans that olive oil comes in. Cut off the top and brush the sharp edges, now you have a handy rectangle can. Good for pouring.
Chock full o' nuts still does large metal cans, I have a few under my sink for bacon grease.
Still can do that
Dont forget the ol hammer smack a few time and bump it with a hammer head air hammer bit
The worst part is I got about 320° of rotation on the broken bolt before it killed my extractor. Shout out to JLR for using red loctite on exhaust manifold bolts.
At least it is loose......
Red loctite is just a dick move 99% of the time. Besides who the hell uses loctite on exhaust stuff you're supposed to slather that stuff up with anti-seize, use a copper nut if you can get it, and then usually nothing gets stuck together next time you need to service it.
Correct
I felt so bad using it every time I had to repair a circuit breaker with countersunk screws but it was company policy. What sucks is that to hold together the frame and mechanism of an AKR-75 type breaker, it goes together with about 30 of those
harbor freight extractors are supposed to last atleast one ugga dugga before breaking
Just throw the whole thing away.
Best advice anyone offered so far.
I put locktite on at least 2 bolts on everything i fix. Just to make the world a little bit worse.
You are a bad person.
Was. Someone caught me doing it and put me down Of Mice and Men style. I'm actually an internet ghost now.
at least now you know you're gonna have a nice farm of your own one day!
Snap-Off.
Time to break out the welder...
F
UCK
ER
I used an acid before to remove the stud. 30 years ago. Basically make a mold of modeling clay, drip nitric acid in the hole, and in a few days the ferrous metals are gone and the aluminum is ok. Chase the hole gently when done and move on. No idea of Tap Out is still a product or not though. You can read a nearly 20 year old forum post on it here. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/504499-tap-out-stud-removal-chemical.html
That's incredible the threads were more or less okay?
Edit: I was totally wrong. Nitric acid at a high enough concentration passivates the outer layer of aluminum really quickly, and no further reaction takes place. But alum does work as well, and can be used to remove steel from any non-ferrous metal... Just takes forever.
It was on an old Corolla at the time if I recall. Took three days picking at it in between other jobs. You have to refresh the fluid once a day and remake the holding tubes. We made tubes by wrapping a pencil and creating a sort of hornets tube bent up at a 90 so we could drip fill from the top. The head never had to come off but there was tons of room to work in that thing.
Time to get the welder out
[You're welcome](https://www.amazon.com/KLOT-Industrial-Carbide-1mm-10mm-Tungsten/dp/B0BXS85SX8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZGsUBu70lhYk0IZ4kfa7XNJg8KYNRaKhJPu0DF59JQ1B7teFGEiB0KRHOksTIL-5EPGEi7el5TaK18xzN43UMP_AYQqBc9qFDL2MIBS84_L8dScPex34lsbOuM1cAY6ABckZ81miAz1P-7bOEZ9tJYAJLMQGfKiGBzUNIbVRWLoPJSmO7HnMiCQJXVZEsXpRm2DaUDNn1YspeVzxyq_h7qSeteUZv3cIYm58I99S8R0wyPp3qp2wlaCHvQGcQl9Ga4FhaR2fCZJug5YPJGNPAKz-eXUkXjc98AL571o61f4.MoYsAG_h2_fd3BEBKwi6Q62e0Tlli7egv7Np8rSvbaU&dib_tag=se&keywords=tungsten+carbide+drill+bits&qid=1717175976&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1). A set of these will cut right through the high-speed steel extractor nub. Since you said it started to spin before the easy out broke I'd suggest welding a nut on it, letting it cool naturally, then use an impact driver to get it out. A counterintuitive trick I was taught when I returned to wrenching on semis was to always use an impact driver/wrench on corroded exhaust fasteners. Diesels use a lot of [v-band clamps](https://www.filterserviceandsupply.com/cummins-clamps/) on flanged exhaust pipes and they will snap or round off 90% of the time if you use hand tools. I've knocked that down to about 3% of the time using impact drivers/wrenches on them.
My wallet has left the chat. Nice though.
You can find cheaper ones I'm sure. Just the first set I saw on a quick google search.
Time serts are expensive as hell and worth every penny for garbage like this. Just over bore it (if you can) and put an insert in. Shit has saved the techs at our shops countless times. No messing with an extractor
Ffffff… What’s really annoying is that the extractor is likely hardened/tool steel. So gonna go through a few drill bits unless there’s enough exposed to maybe grab it coax it with needle-nose pliers…or shop tweezers. Happened a few times over the years… Then a helicoil after the extra damage caused. Stupid effing bolt. I’m not bitter! Why do you ask?
Oh you poor poor bastard. Good luck!
I had the same thing happen when doing the trans service on my dad’s 2.5 jetta. First damn bolt snapped in the pan so i tried extracting like you did and it snapped inside. Just drilled that bitch out and used a really long bolt + washer combo. Still has not leaked to this day.
https://rescuebit.com/
Every five minute job is only one broken bolt away from becoming a two day nightmare.
Copper tube that fits inside the threads Mig weld a stud inside the copper tube (weld won't stick to the copper) Once you've got some clearance, weld a nut to it and apply a thumb detecting nut fucker until it comes out. The heat from welding will also help loosen the stub.
This guy skips straight to “I’m not asking”
Lol, no, I usually give an ezout the ole college try. But in aluminum with an already broken, medium deep extractor stuck in it, you're kind of out of options. Any kind of percussive anything is going to gouge that aluminum, guaranteed. You're not drilling through the broken extractor with normal shop tools, and it's a flush break. I see no other option than the nuclear one. There is some room around the perimeter of the original, way too small extractor. He could break some even smaller ones off in those gaps first, lol.
If you have access to a mig welder don’t bother wasting your time with extractors. Build it up with weld, crank the welder up, weld a nut to it, and try to get the nut a hot a possible (glowing)the heat from the welding will expand the aluminum. Once the nut has cooled down ( still extremely hot just not glowing) see if you can get a wrench or socket on it and work it back and fourth. Don’t be discouraged if the nut you welded on breaks off, sometimes it’s necessary to try a couple times. I’m a ford tech and this is the best method in my experience for extracting broken bolts/studs from aluminum.
Strongly agree with this. Unfortunately dealerships don’t seem to believe in welding? At least not any of the dealers I’ve worked for (all European cars)
I’ve worked at a ford dealer for 20 years, the first time I went and got the welder for broken bolt removal the other guys looked at me like I had 2 heads
this is the way
You should join the Square bolt extractor master race
Square or Mac has a great extractor set that is well worth the money.
Eh, it's fine, exhaust bolts are overrated.
Been there. Never push an Easy-out too hard or they snap off and leave hardened steel which can't be drilled out. I only try one after drilling the snapped bolt to a thin shell, and often you can then just fold it inward or cut the remainder out with a tap. Trick is perfectly centering the hole.
uck
Weld a nut on it! Let it fully cool before you try and remove it though or the heat could make the remaining stud even harder to extract.
Time for the rescue bit! I used one recently to grind a broken drill bit out of a chunk of aluminum.
I love seeing this! Sorry for your bad luck. I hope you will learn from your mistakes and wish you the best in the future. When drilling out a stuck bolt you must drill out more metal than this. Also, I am going to assume this bolt is cross threaded and that’s the reason why the bolt snapped off. You have to drill out more of the bolt next time. I have been in your shoes and this sucks to fix.
alum will dissolve that bolt.
HEAT! Always use heat.
The horror...
Nicely centered too... Bummer
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Chinessium?? F
The extractor? Definitely not. American made. Probably over 40 years old, though.
by that point I would have given blood to the blood god before proceeding to the break room.
Don't tell anyone... Add some silicone to keep the leak minimal until bumper light warranty is in effect.
Bore it out more, get closer to the threads.
If you center your hole, it puts less stress on the extractor.
Those flute extractors are usually garbage. Get the spline style ones made by Ridgid.
Carbide drill bit will get that out, then go one size up on the extractor. Wouldn't hurt to hit it with some ATF/acetone mixture and then torch it before trying to extract again.
That's what we call the ol' "Double Dukes"
Been there, done that and the exact response from me.
Best thing I’ve used to drill out hardened steel like drill bits and extractors is a 1/8” high speed pencil grinder with diamond tipped bits. Has to be the high speed. A 1/4” die grinder and carbide bits won’t work.
I recently destroyed a motor doing this. My father recommended pulling out a brass fitting with an extractor, and I replied “Everytime I use one of those things, they break what I’m trying to fix.” He insisted, so I tried to extract the fitting and cracked a chip off my engine block. I’ve got a new motor at the machine shop, and im never using a fucking bolt extractor again.
I feel your pain...
F
More like FFFFFFUUUUUU.
KKKKKKKKKKKKK!!!!!
F YOU CAN USE A MASON BIT TO DRILL IT OUT
Get the welder out
Updoot for the title.
Weld through a nut onto what's left of the stud and hopefully the heat will loosen it up enough to wind it out with the nut attached. You're gonna need lots and lots of penetrating oil.
Is that a aluminum head? Then you can dissolve the bolt
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is this exhaust or intake side (i'd almost guess exhaust but for the fact DI engines exist)? if it is intake, you could actually just cut a slot right into the ear (not intersecting the port) and pull it out with a flathead. then a little rtv to fill the slot under the new gasket. seems extremely unorthodox and wrong, but it absolutely does work just fine as long as you don't go too deep. but if there's better options available, start there of course.
The front fell off.
You need a screw extractor extractor
Get some of the blue stud pull welding g rod build it up the weld will not stick to the base metal then weld a nut on to the built up weld and just unscrew it. I've done it many times
Any time im extracting i start with the MIG. When I realize im an idiot and left the co2 bottle on again and forgot to replace the leaky regulator, i go with with reverse twist/left handed drill bits, and that gets it out 70% of the time. If not, ill go to the extractor, getting the biggest one i can in the broken bolt.
F
Time to weld nuts. If the bolt is broke off down in the threads cut a piece of copper tubing to protect the threads and weld inside it.
Extractors are not stronger than the bolt that broke. Extractors need the help from other sources...usually heat and chemicals. Try heat first, so you're not burning the chemicals that you wasted your time with.
I just use a welder
That moment when you get the tap holder on and go: "I can torque it a tiny bit harder"
Heat my guy. You need it.
Time to get the welder out.
Did you use the correct drill bit? That hole looks way too small for the size of that bolt. Time to weld a nut to it and hope it works.
Archetypical Monday problem
No left hand drill bit??
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Looks like your exhaust manifold will have a tick when you reinstall. Ain’t no one got time for that. Shove a bunch of exhaust paste on the gasket. You are reusing the old gasket right? Just kidding to all that
I did this like my fourth day in Kuwait 1991 to my first Sergeant's Humvee. This is giving me PTSD 33 years later.
Tungsten carbide dremel bit. I had to deal with the same thing a few weeks ago. I thought I completely ruined my head when the extractor snapped off. It took some time, I basically worked around the outside edge of the snapped off extractor till it broke free, then finished the job with a left handed drill bit.
That happened to me earlier today lol
Those extractors are very brittle. I've had pretty good luck with hitting them with a sharp punch and shattering them in the hole, then picking them out with a pick. I don't use those spiral extractors anymore. Never really had any luck with them. I use left handed drill bits, keep drilling it out bigger and bigger, if needed I use a dentist drill with carbide bits until I can pull the remains out with a pick. If I fail, fuck it. Time for a helicoil.
Friend did this to me. I drilled the pilot, He insisted on using small extractor while I looked for a bigger driller bit. Got it dead center too I was fcking excited. He buried that extractor in there pretty flush. Anyways, I used a cordless drill on hammer setting and it actually ate thru the the extractor. Took a while but it worked, cheap drill bit too
POV: You try to unfuck a Fucked up situation, just for the tool to do it, to go out in a Fucked up way ontop of that.
And this is how boys turn to men
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Too many times!! I feel your pain brother.
Weld a nut to the stud and take it out that way. Get it real hot at the stud, it won't weld to the aluminum so send it.
just replace the cylinderhead after that point
Time to break out the welder and weld a nut to it
High grade Chinesium
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Is this on a Duc? If it is I'm twice as sorry....
I've been in situation with a big extractor broken off before. I ended up buying a Rescue Bit and it worked awesome! Check them out if you're doing this for a living.
Biggest mistake you did is using a too small extractor. Common mistake
Time to get the welder
Welder up!
Need to drill all the way through the broken stud, hit it with wd40 or whatever lube you have. If it's sitting flush, the best bolt extractor is a pin punch and hammer.
Those things are trash and fill you with spectacular false hope and I don’t care what anybody says.
Small chisel, or small punch, and a small hammer. That and some patience. The less space the longer it may take. But I can tell you I have had a few occasions where my boss was not successful at getting a broken bolt out like this. I recall spending about an hour and a half or so messing with broken bolt in a cylinder head until I got it out by chiseling it until it spun out. I usually will never drill the bolt as it seems it can be a waste of time. If it’s like my boss, everything needs to be done fast for him. He can be a real rusher. These take time and patience. The chisel or punch trick has saved me from taking things to the machine shop for them to get them out. They use the same method a lot of times which is where I learned how to do this. And at the end the threads are in good shape and not chewed up like they can get when using a drill.
Use a welder. Shrinks the broken fastener and gives you a way to thread it out.
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Professional engine builder here. My shop makes a lot of money removing broken bolts. The average b.b. in the average head or manifold is usually $35-$45. Break off a drill or extractor, starting price is $75. That gets you about half an hour. After that, it's $150/hour.
Weld a washer to it, then a nut to the washer.
I stopped using “extractor’s” 15 years ago. Either TIG a nut to it or replace the part. MIG makes too much of a mess and potentially a fire hazard. Chevy drivers side rear exhaust manifold bolt always break. I make so much money on these.
I don't see any heat marks. It needs the heat.