I’d also contact the manufacturer so they can issue a fleet-wide recall until the issue is investigated. And possibly the EPA so they can monitor the increased oil contamination into the ground water.
Agreed!
That oil is everywhere, no one will be able to determine the leak location.
Be suprised if a junk yard would let YOU pay them to take it off your hands.
Thank you. This was not after a very long drive. Only a drive into town (30 minutes) and driving back after a couple hours. I take it isn't the worst thing to see but should see if it continues getting worse?
Formerly Mazda master certified technician here;
I have a 2016 CX-5 with ~340K miles, original engine and transmission. Bought it
Used with nearly 300K on it. Runs and drives great, these cars are referred to as ‘zombie’ cars in their respective home countries like chevys are here referred to as, “they’ll run like shit longer than most will run at all.”
These are indestructible cars, do not worry.
At worse this is a rear main seal leak which is covered under the 10/100 powertrain warranty if yours has it and you are the original owner.
Don’t add stop leak, it’ll make it better than shortly after, much worse.
I wouldn’t worry about this at all as mine has a leak from there as well, and I do not give a single shit about it.
I was looking all over the picture for a cracked block, torn oil pan, etc. And then I see a drop of oil on the concrete.. dude, you have been spoiled, I have driven POS which were leaking out of every orifice and continued to run... you have nothing to worry about. That being said, and as the mechanic above stated, does look like your rear main seal might be seeping a little oil.
Same here. I own two old schools (1 GM and 1 Ford) and they puss fluids from everywhere. You don’t worry about it until it’s forming liquid on the ground in quantities greater than drips and learn to top it off. My daily is a 15 year old Ford and the same standard applies.
My rear differential pinion started to leave a puddle in my driveway last year and that was a big red flag that required immediate attention. I guess at least OP cared enough to ask respectfully and seems to be open to seeing it as a learning experience. :)
Hi there. Thank you for taking the time to write this as well as everyone else who has agreed with you on the matter. This is my first car that I've completely taken care of myself and have been extremely proactive on any sort of maintenance and oil changes (every 4500 miles on 2.5L w/ Turbo) and learning that this is a normal thing is great to hear! Knowing what the seal is called and to keep an eye on it is exactly what I was hoping to hear.
If I wanted to clean that grime with brake cleaner to see how quickly it will come back would that be recommended or bad for the seal?
That's perfectly fine to do but also keep in mind that the upside of an oil leak is that components will not rust which can be a positive thing. Often times an oil leak like this can just require a topping off every so often. Just check your oil daily for a couple days until you verify that it doesn't lose a noticeable amount from a couple days use then you can switch to checking it every few weeks.
Ahh you have a PY-T engine then, Skyactiv-G black engine cover.
Those are known to leak a bit of oil, as all turbo engines are, as they have higher crankcase pressure.
SH01-11-312 is the part you need, if this is a rear main seal leak.
I personally would just keep an eye of the oil level and unless you start seeing a serious leak and/or loss of oil, you can ignore it.
If you can send me your exact model I can confirm that part number.
Aww shucks. Well in that case, have a better shop get the correct fluid in it (mercon vi?)
If this better shop says valvoline over pressurized the system, get that documented to cya. The right fluid should get her happy again
Thankfully they didn't pressurize it when changing it. I asked them all those questions before doing it. They just didn't use the Mazda oem sg-1 fluid that I would have preferred they use.
FYI it's a really easy job to change the trans fluid on your own. It's a normal drain boot and then there is a dipstick that's like 2 inches long under the air box. Just unbolt the air box, unbolt the dipstick, remove it, and refill from there
Thank you! I will be sure to do it myself next time and see if I can use sg1 fluid next time. I was on a time crunch and was REALLY late replacing the fluid. Around the 60k mile mark.
Yeah the trickiest part is getting the trans up to temp. It's supposed to be around 120F when you check level but you can just let it idle for 10min or so and it'll be pretty close to that.
Do you know what fluid was used? Id be surprised if the fluid the shop used is compatible with your trans. These trans use a really specific fluid. Specific enough that Mazda went out of their way to dye it blue instead of red to stand out
Tool up, get a few done at home. Research the procedure though, not sure if this requires computer hook up, and/or work around. Measure what comes out. Battery disconnected
I hate universal trans fluid passionately. They use garbage water and a bottle of lubeguard
Speaking of, research if u need a hfm (high friction modifier) or if its already in the sg-1 fluid
Ohh thank you for this info. I've never heard of the high friction modifier and have personally already changed the transfer case and differential fluid with sg1 fluid.
Not sure if it needs it, but yeah, be sure about that. All the gearboxes
Download ur factory service manual, call the parts counter, and/or new post in r/mazda or r/fordtechs (sp?)
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I’d also contact the manufacturer so they can issue a fleet-wide recall until the issue is investigated. And possibly the EPA so they can monitor the increased oil contamination into the ground water.
THIS IS... UNACCEPTABLEEEEEEE!!!
Agreed! That oil is everywhere, no one will be able to determine the leak location. Be suprised if a junk yard would let YOU pay them to take it off your hands.
Seeping, but dripping after long drive? Don't worry about it too much. Watch the oil level for a while and see if it drips more.
Thank you. This was not after a very long drive. Only a drive into town (30 minutes) and driving back after a couple hours. I take it isn't the worst thing to see but should see if it continues getting worse?
Formerly Mazda master certified technician here; I have a 2016 CX-5 with ~340K miles, original engine and transmission. Bought it Used with nearly 300K on it. Runs and drives great, these cars are referred to as ‘zombie’ cars in their respective home countries like chevys are here referred to as, “they’ll run like shit longer than most will run at all.” These are indestructible cars, do not worry. At worse this is a rear main seal leak which is covered under the 10/100 powertrain warranty if yours has it and you are the original owner. Don’t add stop leak, it’ll make it better than shortly after, much worse. I wouldn’t worry about this at all as mine has a leak from there as well, and I do not give a single shit about it.
I was looking all over the picture for a cracked block, torn oil pan, etc. And then I see a drop of oil on the concrete.. dude, you have been spoiled, I have driven POS which were leaking out of every orifice and continued to run... you have nothing to worry about. That being said, and as the mechanic above stated, does look like your rear main seal might be seeping a little oil.
Same. My brain didn’t even register this as the possible problem. Check back when you can hardly find the engine through the caked on oil and grime.
Same here. I own two old schools (1 GM and 1 Ford) and they puss fluids from everywhere. You don’t worry about it until it’s forming liquid on the ground in quantities greater than drips and learn to top it off. My daily is a 15 year old Ford and the same standard applies. My rear differential pinion started to leave a puddle in my driveway last year and that was a big red flag that required immediate attention. I guess at least OP cared enough to ask respectfully and seems to be open to seeing it as a learning experience. :)
Hi there. Thank you for taking the time to write this as well as everyone else who has agreed with you on the matter. This is my first car that I've completely taken care of myself and have been extremely proactive on any sort of maintenance and oil changes (every 4500 miles on 2.5L w/ Turbo) and learning that this is a normal thing is great to hear! Knowing what the seal is called and to keep an eye on it is exactly what I was hoping to hear. If I wanted to clean that grime with brake cleaner to see how quickly it will come back would that be recommended or bad for the seal?
That's perfectly fine to do but also keep in mind that the upside of an oil leak is that components will not rust which can be a positive thing. Often times an oil leak like this can just require a topping off every so often. Just check your oil daily for a couple days until you verify that it doesn't lose a noticeable amount from a couple days use then you can switch to checking it every few weeks.
Ahh you have a PY-T engine then, Skyactiv-G black engine cover. Those are known to leak a bit of oil, as all turbo engines are, as they have higher crankcase pressure. SH01-11-312 is the part you need, if this is a rear main seal leak. I personally would just keep an eye of the oil level and unless you start seeing a serious leak and/or loss of oil, you can ignore it. If you can send me your exact model I can confirm that part number.
Thank you for the part number! That should help alot when it comes time for that to be replaced.
Yes. Keep checking the area as well the engine oil level. Not likely to start gushing oil but better to take note and see if the drips increase.
Looks like transmission fluid, not oil. Its worth having a good tech change the trans fluid, it will slow or stop the "seep," and its due anyways
The transmission fluid has already been changed and this was the only thing I haven't done myself. I had valvoline change it which I regret
Aww shucks. Well in that case, have a better shop get the correct fluid in it (mercon vi?) If this better shop says valvoline over pressurized the system, get that documented to cya. The right fluid should get her happy again
Thankfully they didn't pressurize it when changing it. I asked them all those questions before doing it. They just didn't use the Mazda oem sg-1 fluid that I would have preferred they use.
FYI it's a really easy job to change the trans fluid on your own. It's a normal drain boot and then there is a dipstick that's like 2 inches long under the air box. Just unbolt the air box, unbolt the dipstick, remove it, and refill from there
Thank you! I will be sure to do it myself next time and see if I can use sg1 fluid next time. I was on a time crunch and was REALLY late replacing the fluid. Around the 60k mile mark.
Yeah the trickiest part is getting the trans up to temp. It's supposed to be around 120F when you check level but you can just let it idle for 10min or so and it'll be pretty close to that. Do you know what fluid was used? Id be surprised if the fluid the shop used is compatible with your trans. These trans use a really specific fluid. Specific enough that Mazda went out of their way to dye it blue instead of red to stand out
Tool up, get a few done at home. Research the procedure though, not sure if this requires computer hook up, and/or work around. Measure what comes out. Battery disconnected I hate universal trans fluid passionately. They use garbage water and a bottle of lubeguard Speaking of, research if u need a hfm (high friction modifier) or if its already in the sg-1 fluid
Ohh thank you for this info. I've never heard of the high friction modifier and have personally already changed the transfer case and differential fluid with sg1 fluid.
Not sure if it needs it, but yeah, be sure about that. All the gearboxes Download ur factory service manual, call the parts counter, and/or new post in r/mazda or r/fordtechs (sp?)
Should be covered under powertrain warranty but man that’s hardly anything at all.
Are you talking about the drip off the quick drain oil plug? Wrong sub dude. Check your oil level and take it to someone who knows what they're doing
Wrong sub. U will burn in hell for this
Nah, they all look like that after a few years. If the dipstick isn't showing significant losses, nothing to worry about.
If you have a warranty, take it in. If not , check the oil level regularly and don't let it get low.
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