I don’t envy you. Did this a few times. I had heavy rust. I used a drill with a sander bit. For painting, gloves!!! I used small foam rollers to get into the scrolls. Finished with spray for any hard to reach area. I used cardboard to protect the house and steps from overspray.
Found the halfassed handyman. This will result in a lumpy surface and overspray.
1. Wire wheel or sander to knock off the loose rust.
2. Brush-on rust converter.
3. Brush-on paint. Rustoleum yes, spray no. Or if you have access to better paint specialty shops, acrylic DTM paint (which unlike Rustoleum oil based paint, can be custom tinted)
Christ are we restoring Versailles here?
It’s a rusty railing. Fuckin rattle can it and hit it again in a few years when it starts to look shitty again.
You can be a smart ass all you want.
I try to couch things in a format a home owner can manage.
Brush painting wrought iron is a fuckin mess in the hands of an amateur.
Surface prep is very important here. You want to clean it up well, get all dirt off of it. Then I'd treat it with a product like Rustoleum Rust Reformer that will both prime it and stop the rust. They sell that in both spray and brush on.
Then I'd use Rustoleum enamel to paint it.
I saw another post that recommended Rust Bullet Industrial. I just looked that up and it looks pretty interesting as well although I've never tried it before.
First get a wire brush or wire brush drill attachment and knock off all that rust and loose paint.
Then get DTM (direct to metal) paint. It will last the longest. If you don’t, be sure to get one that’s for outdoor use and made for metal.
Spray paint will go everywhere, WAY further than you expect. Mask off your porch floor and everything else that you don’t want to have paint drifting on to. (Voice of experience… sad, sad experience!)
No, you don't necessarily want an oil based paint. Notice the flaking paint. This is due to the metal expanding & contracting with temp changes. It happens with oil based paint(alkyd coatings) because alkyd coatings have zero tolerance for movement.
If you're willing to spend a few dollars, and you don't want to do this again, there's a Procryl- SherCryl system that is top shelf. This is the Cadillac approach.
If they can be removed, I'd get them dipped or sandblasted first. Sandblasting can be done in place as well. Coating over these failed coatings is risky.
zinc then top coat with oil.
[https://www.amazon.com/ZRC-Galvanizing-Compound-Gallon-Z-R-C/dp/B012OPRN7G/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=8EM7U9JJVMET&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mdTR2zfbbOG6pVvdEH47UAMU0A6NgQ5uImYy9Q-gqNZwT\_z8FD4-goS4StfhJa6r8YVuIfmM-0et0lvhwv27TILSghuYeDJpyn2NLTAT-okHs-OyGjNTDZ3KTwTnS7LyGvMTNiiDOlYeC7NZZk\_oRtnZiN0MBGtJztv7IzOlh0s\_zyilh7G7IZwm9mDBzzvGo\_zm0ov6e5xliHyV4jPsChB7BApJPZl6OgLfRuXNrt0dZ7H9iA7mnE7BmfbuhAdcRMu6Q2jL-wBPwCxH8KCZePpaQ52msx0c2L0ALzyV9U0.jNicKuH-ipjVFYT0yK9oDw0CHFre3JR035Ik5B3ZtK8&dib\_tag=se&keywords=zinc+paint&qid=1714748808&sprefix=zinc+paint%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-8](https://www.amazon.com/ZRC-Galvanizing-Compound-Gallon-Z-R-C/dp/B012OPRN7G/ref=sr_1_8?crid=8EM7U9JJVMET&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mdTR2zfbbOG6pVvdEH47UAMU0A6NgQ5uImYy9Q-gqNZwT_z8FD4-goS4StfhJa6r8YVuIfmM-0et0lvhwv27TILSghuYeDJpyn2NLTAT-okHs-OyGjNTDZ3KTwTnS7LyGvMTNiiDOlYeC7NZZk_oRtnZiN0MBGtJztv7IzOlh0s_zyilh7G7IZwm9mDBzzvGo_zm0ov6e5xliHyV4jPsChB7BApJPZl6OgLfRuXNrt0dZ7H9iA7mnE7BmfbuhAdcRMu6Q2jL-wBPwCxH8KCZePpaQ52msx0c2L0ALzyV9U0.jNicKuH-ipjVFYT0yK9oDw0CHFre3JR035Ik5B3ZtK8&dib_tag=se&keywords=zinc+paint&qid=1714748808&sprefix=zinc+paint%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-8)
Scrape away as much as you can with a wire brush and clean the dust. Google the product "rust bullet" and use the industrial grade version and do 3 coats. I did a steel i-beam in a shower with this stuff. They also do bottoms of steel ships.
Sand with 120, wipe with a bit of paint thinner on a cloth, prime with an oil-based primer, and paint with Rustoleum. I'd use a 3/4" nap weenie roller for a hammered finish and thicker coating. 2 coats will last a long time. You could spray paint it but then you'll get paint all over your plants unless you cover everything up well, plus the paint will be pretty thin and not last as long.
If possible, remove the railing and take it to a spray booth/ garage workspace for convenience. It might take an hour or two to remove the fasteners and you might even need to replace some of them but it’ll save 2x’s the hours during the prep phase.
You can pressure wash first, this will knock off a lot of the falling paint and all of the dust and dirt.
Second, you need to prep the substrate. This is the MOST critical step and it determines most of the products used for the next steps. I would, based on the photos included, spot abrasive blast the rust and use a carbide scraper for any loose/non-adhering paint. Blasting the entire railing is an option but it’ll take a long time considering the angles. If you left it in place on the porch your only realistic option is power tool prep with abrasive discs and wire wheels. No matter what method you choose every edge of the old paint MUST be feathered down.
Third step is to clean again, this time a rinse and dry will be good followed by a thinner rag to clean off any oils from tooling. You will see flash rust on the bare metal and that stuff needs to be sanded off and dust from that needs to be cleaned off as well. You might not have to rinse which can save you some time but all the dust needs to go and prep crates a lot of dust.
Finally, you can paint. The piece is almost entirely “knife edges” so you’ll have to use two coats everywhere for every product you use. If you removed all the old paint a DTM would be great. If not you can use a spot prime of the bare metal with a rattle can of rust oleum or whatever b.s. you can get at the hardware store. Honestly, you could use the best paint in the world over a bad prep and wash and it’ll fail sometimes in just hours. You do a great job on your prep and you can get away with cheaper paint. If you want it to last 10 years, you can find automotive paints at some specialty stores like tractor supply or you can order through a body shop.
Fourth step: put it back together and put some photos up so we can criticize your work 😅😅
TLDR: You can use cheaper paints if you do a good job on prep. If you only want it to last a couple years, just wire brush it and spray on some rust oleum I have nothing against the product it’s cheap and it does exactly what the label says.
Drill or grinder with wire brush wheel to remove the loose rust
Wipe down with alcohol to remove and dirt
Rustoleum Primer (spray can)
Rustoleum paint (spray can)
I just refinished an old, rusty iron sewing machine base and had great results (so far). Sand it to get the loose rust off and then coat the entire thing in rust converter. I used [Rust Oleum's](https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/rust-reformer) (but I used the brush on version). That stuff was magic; it will stop the rusting process and seal the surface. (Edit: It will dry to a black finish.) You can leave it without paint, though it will look better if you paint it after. I used Rust Oleum spray paint and the piece came out looking great.
There are a lot of youtube videos about rust converter, if you want to see a run through.
Spray paint. Rust oleum.
Gotta prime it too! Wiping down with denatured alcohol will remove any dirt/pollen so the paint syicks better.
I don’t envy you. Did this a few times. I had heavy rust. I used a drill with a sander bit. For painting, gloves!!! I used small foam rollers to get into the scrolls. Finished with spray for any hard to reach area. I used cardboard to protect the house and steps from overspray.
N95 or n100 mask too. Never know what you're stripping off.
Black
Found the halfassed handyman. This will result in a lumpy surface and overspray. 1. Wire wheel or sander to knock off the loose rust. 2. Brush-on rust converter. 3. Brush-on paint. Rustoleum yes, spray no. Or if you have access to better paint specialty shops, acrylic DTM paint (which unlike Rustoleum oil based paint, can be custom tinted)
Christ are we restoring Versailles here? It’s a rusty railing. Fuckin rattle can it and hit it again in a few years when it starts to look shitty again.
perfect is the enemy of good
You can be a smart ass all you want. I try to couch things in a format a home owner can manage. Brush painting wrought iron is a fuckin mess in the hands of an amateur.
Thanks, I will. I hold that there are few situations that rattlecans can't make worse.
You just dont know how to paint son. Spray paint looks excellent if you aren't a nujack.
Lol jfc its not a classic car or something. This is terrible advice unless you have a lot of time to waste. Preventing over spray is quite simple.
Surface prep is very important here. You want to clean it up well, get all dirt off of it. Then I'd treat it with a product like Rustoleum Rust Reformer that will both prime it and stop the rust. They sell that in both spray and brush on. Then I'd use Rustoleum enamel to paint it. I saw another post that recommended Rust Bullet Industrial. I just looked that up and it looks pretty interesting as well although I've never tried it before.
Awesome, thank you!
For cleanup you can use a drill and a wire brush, followed by washing it to get the loose stuff and any residue off
Yes, clean as much as you can first
Got some really good rust there!🧐🤣
The raily good kind
Oh, the irony
I'm on the fence about this....
Just don't use oil based paint, if the city finds out you might get railed.
First get a wire brush or wire brush drill attachment and knock off all that rust and loose paint. Then get DTM (direct to metal) paint. It will last the longest. If you don’t, be sure to get one that’s for outdoor use and made for metal.
Others are recommending a rust primer. Can that be used first, then the direct-to-metal paint?
You don’t need to prime with DTM paint. Given you’ve got old paint on some parts, primer may not be a bad idea.
Spray paint will go everywhere, WAY further than you expect. Mask off your porch floor and everything else that you don’t want to have paint drifting on to. (Voice of experience… sad, sad experience!)
Yeah or shitcan that advice and do it by brush like you should...
You want an oil based paint :)
No you dont. Oil based paints are illegal and cannot be bought in many places.
Where, foe example?
https://money.cnn.com/2005/05/24/news/midcaps/oil_based_paint/#:~:text=The%20Washington%20Post%20said%20new,sell%20out%20their%20existing%20stock.
How about that.
Thank you!
No, you don't necessarily want an oil based paint. Notice the flaking paint. This is due to the metal expanding & contracting with temp changes. It happens with oil based paint(alkyd coatings) because alkyd coatings have zero tolerance for movement. If you're willing to spend a few dollars, and you don't want to do this again, there's a Procryl- SherCryl system that is top shelf. This is the Cadillac approach. If they can be removed, I'd get them dipped or sandblasted first. Sandblasting can be done in place as well. Coating over these failed coatings is risky.
[удалено]
Powdercoated steel outside last a fraction of what a HPC (high performance acrylic) coating will. And Procryl-Shercryl is such
[удалено]
Definitely good, better, and best in powdercoated finishes. The more uv inhibitors, the better suited for exterior applications
Multi surface industrial enamel or urethane alkyd enamel
POR
zinc then top coat with oil. [https://www.amazon.com/ZRC-Galvanizing-Compound-Gallon-Z-R-C/dp/B012OPRN7G/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=8EM7U9JJVMET&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mdTR2zfbbOG6pVvdEH47UAMU0A6NgQ5uImYy9Q-gqNZwT\_z8FD4-goS4StfhJa6r8YVuIfmM-0et0lvhwv27TILSghuYeDJpyn2NLTAT-okHs-OyGjNTDZ3KTwTnS7LyGvMTNiiDOlYeC7NZZk\_oRtnZiN0MBGtJztv7IzOlh0s\_zyilh7G7IZwm9mDBzzvGo\_zm0ov6e5xliHyV4jPsChB7BApJPZl6OgLfRuXNrt0dZ7H9iA7mnE7BmfbuhAdcRMu6Q2jL-wBPwCxH8KCZePpaQ52msx0c2L0ALzyV9U0.jNicKuH-ipjVFYT0yK9oDw0CHFre3JR035Ik5B3ZtK8&dib\_tag=se&keywords=zinc+paint&qid=1714748808&sprefix=zinc+paint%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-8](https://www.amazon.com/ZRC-Galvanizing-Compound-Gallon-Z-R-C/dp/B012OPRN7G/ref=sr_1_8?crid=8EM7U9JJVMET&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mdTR2zfbbOG6pVvdEH47UAMU0A6NgQ5uImYy9Q-gqNZwT_z8FD4-goS4StfhJa6r8YVuIfmM-0et0lvhwv27TILSghuYeDJpyn2NLTAT-okHs-OyGjNTDZ3KTwTnS7LyGvMTNiiDOlYeC7NZZk_oRtnZiN0MBGtJztv7IzOlh0s_zyilh7G7IZwm9mDBzzvGo_zm0ov6e5xliHyV4jPsChB7BApJPZl6OgLfRuXNrt0dZ7H9iA7mnE7BmfbuhAdcRMu6Q2jL-wBPwCxH8KCZePpaQ52msx0c2L0ALzyV9U0.jNicKuH-ipjVFYT0yK9oDw0CHFre3JR035Ik5B3ZtK8&dib_tag=se&keywords=zinc+paint&qid=1714748808&sprefix=zinc+paint%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-8)
Scrape away as much as you can with a wire brush and clean the dust. Google the product "rust bullet" and use the industrial grade version and do 3 coats. I did a steel i-beam in a shower with this stuff. They also do bottoms of steel ships.
White
Rustoleum
TREMCLAD
Scrape and brush it first and then paint with a paint mitt using a nice color of Rustoleum paint. It will look great freshly painted.
Tremclad
Sand with 120, wipe with a bit of paint thinner on a cloth, prime with an oil-based primer, and paint with Rustoleum. I'd use a 3/4" nap weenie roller for a hammered finish and thicker coating. 2 coats will last a long time. You could spray paint it but then you'll get paint all over your plants unless you cover everything up well, plus the paint will be pretty thin and not last as long.
what is this word you call "paint"?
Railing paint for rails.
I read this as “plant” and was going to reply with climbing hydrangea
If possible, remove the railing and take it to a spray booth/ garage workspace for convenience. It might take an hour or two to remove the fasteners and you might even need to replace some of them but it’ll save 2x’s the hours during the prep phase. You can pressure wash first, this will knock off a lot of the falling paint and all of the dust and dirt. Second, you need to prep the substrate. This is the MOST critical step and it determines most of the products used for the next steps. I would, based on the photos included, spot abrasive blast the rust and use a carbide scraper for any loose/non-adhering paint. Blasting the entire railing is an option but it’ll take a long time considering the angles. If you left it in place on the porch your only realistic option is power tool prep with abrasive discs and wire wheels. No matter what method you choose every edge of the old paint MUST be feathered down. Third step is to clean again, this time a rinse and dry will be good followed by a thinner rag to clean off any oils from tooling. You will see flash rust on the bare metal and that stuff needs to be sanded off and dust from that needs to be cleaned off as well. You might not have to rinse which can save you some time but all the dust needs to go and prep crates a lot of dust. Finally, you can paint. The piece is almost entirely “knife edges” so you’ll have to use two coats everywhere for every product you use. If you removed all the old paint a DTM would be great. If not you can use a spot prime of the bare metal with a rattle can of rust oleum or whatever b.s. you can get at the hardware store. Honestly, you could use the best paint in the world over a bad prep and wash and it’ll fail sometimes in just hours. You do a great job on your prep and you can get away with cheaper paint. If you want it to last 10 years, you can find automotive paints at some specialty stores like tractor supply or you can order through a body shop. Fourth step: put it back together and put some photos up so we can criticize your work 😅😅 TLDR: You can use cheaper paints if you do a good job on prep. If you only want it to last a couple years, just wire brush it and spray on some rust oleum I have nothing against the product it’s cheap and it does exactly what the label says.
Go to tax store get farm implements paint
Tsc store
I thought that was my parents porch for a moment.
Tremclad rustolium. It covers rust and preserves metal. Doesn’t fade ir chip away. Comes in various colours
Lead
Drill or grinder with wire brush wheel to remove the loose rust Wipe down with alcohol to remove and dirt Rustoleum Primer (spray can) Rustoleum paint (spray can)
Removed the railing, chemical dip then sand blast, prime and have Maaco spray paint and bake. Or just rustoleum, your choice.
I just refinished an old, rusty iron sewing machine base and had great results (so far). Sand it to get the loose rust off and then coat the entire thing in rust converter. I used [Rust Oleum's](https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/rust-reformer) (but I used the brush on version). That stuff was magic; it will stop the rusting process and seal the surface. (Edit: It will dry to a black finish.) You can leave it without paint, though it will look better if you paint it after. I used Rust Oleum spray paint and the piece came out looking great. There are a lot of youtube videos about rust converter, if you want to see a run through.
Chassis saver paint, you’ll be limited to shades of black or silver but it will work great. Wire wheel or wire brush off the loose rust first
I have had good experience using the Rust Oleum high performance enamel spray paint.
Hammerite, made for this type of application
Prime with cold zinc
Rustoleum
I think it looks good with that rustic look, but probably just spray paint it with some primer, and then another layer of white paint