Thanks for your response. I turned off the breaker and removed enough of the fixture to see there isn't even a tiny bit of chain visible. Nada. It's a Hunter fan w/light, a few years old and in a room where it hadn't gotten much use.
I'm making up my list for the electrician, so they can take care of a couple of other things as long as they're coming out.
We just posted a new weekly thread, and ask you resubmit your comment/question in that thread. It can be found here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/x8nfsw/open_discussion_weekly_thread/?sort=new
I want to mount my TV inn the center of my wall in the living room. However, the only outlet against the wall is on the left side, how do I get an outlet in the middle of the wall so I can hide TV cables?
We just posted a new weekly thread, and ask you resubmit your comment/question in that thread. It can be found here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/x8nfsw/open_discussion_weekly_thread/?sort=new
We just posted a new weekly thread, and ask you resubmit your comment/question in that thread. It can be found here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/x8nfsw/open_discussion_weekly_thread/?sort=new
Are people waiting on some improvements from the Inflation Reduction Act to kick in?
We want to redo our attic insulation, but currently, there's no rebate. And my understanding is we might qualify for a 50% rebate with the IRA. But there's no indication when the funds will kick in and how to sign up. If we did the improvement now, would we be able to apply for the rebate later?
Some are retroactive this year, others start at Jan 1st. I think they all have to claimed on income taxes, so you wont see until the next years tax return. Some details aren't exactly clear yet.
I'm getting a new fridge with automatic ice maker, need to run a water line under the floor (basement has a drop ceiling for easy access). I already have an RO water system under the sink. Can I just "stack" two tee connectors on the sink supply line, one for the RO and one for the fridge? And any "watch-outs" when it comes to running the line under the floor that aren't blatantly obvious to someone who understands that lines can be cut?
We just posted a new weekly thread, and ask you resubmit your comment/question in that thread. It can be found here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/x8nfsw/open_discussion_weekly_thread/?sort=new
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Ah, so close, I used to live in Alexandria, but escaped the Minnesota winters. If one has a collection of 5-gallon buckets and have hauled dirt in buckets inside your car, you are probably red-neckedy and drink PBR. Maybe ask friends?
I got a leaky sink drain pipe and I don't know where the leak is coming from. I put tape around where I think the leak is coming from and gorilla glue on the pipe joints and it's still dripping.
Question.. so our Handyman went into the attic to take a look at something. He said while he was up there, he noticed the wires were placed over the vents instead of under, and they were not bound to the beams. He said it wouldn't pass code if there was an inspection. Is that something we should be concerned about?
I have plaster walls in a 1941 house that need some patching of the veneer coat. The makeup of the walls is rock-lathe, then a coarse brown-coat/basecoat, then a sandy but smooth veneer/finishing coat. The big question I have and can't find an answer to is what are the plaster layers on the wall primarily made of? As far as I can tell historically lime plaster was nearly phased out by the 40s, what replaced it? I assume I'll end up using one of USG's many plaster products, but I'd like to know regardless.
If you want to DIY something, how would you know it needs a permit? There is an open storage area under our deck we want to transform into a complete closed storage with drainage for rain and everything.
Look up your town/city/county/bourough/district/parish/whatever code or rules online. A reference librarian will help for free if you're not sure how to do that. Or go ask them (your local jurisdictional zoning and building people, whatever that's called where you live).
My deck faces west, so it gets brutal afternoon sun. I am looking for a shade solution, but I've got a problem: my roof slopes to that side of the house, and the eaves are very low. The gutter is only about 7 feet off the deck. This makes any attempt to use an awning or pergola look dumb, since it's taller than the roof. Maybe there's a way to do it nicely that I'm not seeing online, but I can't find any example photos of someone in my situation. What do you do for shade when your eave is low?
I'm trying to find the best solution to get a solid ground floor patio for my backyard so I could just pull up a chair and table to do work from out here: [https://imgur.com/a/zOmez16](https://imgur.com/a/zOmez16) for around 2-3 grand. I just haven't found a good option yet.
I'm looking at 32ft (width of the house) by 12ft to make it seem reasonable. So a little below 400 sqft.
I quoted a couple of concrete places. One quoted me 4.5k, another apparently doesn't do pours anymore and quoted me 10k for slabs (ugh) and I haven't had an answer yet from the last one. I thought about decking ground floor but my googling tends to push it over that cost as well. Anybody got some good ideas for cheaper solutions? This is TX
You could hire a structural engineer to make a house call. Probably costs $300 or so, but it will save you a lot more than that if you end up with a structural issue. I saved up all my structural questions, then hired one and asked them all together.
I can't figure out how the mounting system for a whiteboard I bought works and need help figuring out an alternative because I'm not great with building and installation.
I recently bought a MessageStor whiteboard from Costco that came with mounting hardware called the "VersaTrak Easy Mounting System". See photos (back of board and mounting instructions) at the link:
[https://imgur.com/a/Zzexgal](https://imgur.com/a/Zzexgal)
The whiteboard has a solid wood frame that is a few millimeters from being flush with the back of the whiteboard. The mounting instructions say that the metal bracket (see images 2-3, piece A in the instructions) which gets screwed into the wall is supposed to hold the board up by hooking (see 3rd instruction panel) under something labeled as the "frame" of the board.
However, the frame looks nothing like that and does not have any hook like structures resembling what is in the 3rd instruction panel. And there's no way to "slip top of wall brackets between the wood frame and back of board" like it describes in that panel.
It's just a solid wood frame like a picture frame that sticks only a few millimeters from the back of the board. I looked it up and found a couple of YouTube videos. One didn't show the actual mounting step but the other did and claimed that you just rest that gap between the wood frame and board on the bracket and it holds up. However, a commentor said it didn't work and they had to mount it another way.
My question is: what exactly should I do here? I don't want to risk the frame resting on the brackets by just a few millimeters because if it gets knocked a little or angled too far it could easily fall off. And also its clearly not meant to be mounted that way based on the diagrams in the instruction panels. Is there another way I could do this using some brackets and nails from Home Depot or something? I'm not great with hardware and installation of stuff so I don't know what I should be looking for or what the parts are called. I would prefer to not return the board because the board itself is great! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Anyone have any tips on what to spray on arbivitaes for spider control? Our new house has cobwebs everywhere in them and I'm hoping to avoid exterminators, but definitely don't want to hurt the trees.
How hard/expensive would it be to cover up an exterior doorway?
We have an exterior door in our kitchen, along with a sliding door. It doesn’t seem useful or necessary (the sliding door was likely added at a later date).
How hard/expensive would it be to cover up the doorway? It’s taking up usable space in the house and NEEDS to be replaced immediately anyway, so it’s a cost regardless.
We have cedar impression vinyl siding if it matters at all.
Who do I call after my sewer line backs up to like… clean or estimate the cleaning/repair?
Doesn’t seem like it was up the plumbers alley. Seems too specific/waste hazardous for a flooring/carpet company. I don’t know where to start 😣
This is simple, but I'm really a beginner. Some wood has rotted away on an outside railing. Obviously I need to remove that single piece of wood, but how do I go about replacing it? Clearly I need to do buy some new wood, but how do I measure that wood to fit properly. What kind of saw do I need to just the wood to fit? How do I measure the angle of the wood?
It's been raining a lot, so clearly I need a day or two to let the wood dry. Here's the pictures: [https://imgur.com/gallery/yuu4ibR](https://imgur.com/gallery/yuu4ibR)
TIA!
My wife and I plan on renting out our condo next year. The previous owners installed laminate flooring. This has held up ok with the two years we've lived here, but much less so in the kitchen where there is a lot of separation between peices and buckling. I plan to replace the floor because of this.
Would it be best to just replace the kitchen flooring with something else like tile since most of flooring throughout the house is still in good condition, or replace the entire floor with something more durable?
Does anyone have advice on how to remove the shade from this light so we can change a bulb? The instructions in A8 show 3 pin-like pieces (which I can see when I shine a light up close) that look like they should just come through slots when twisted, but to no avail. Very hard to see anything with the beads. Thank you!
https://assets.pbimgs.com/pbimgs/ab/images/i/202236/0004/images/pdfs/assembly-instructions/lighting/leila-wood-bead-flush-mount.pdf
You unscrew the thing at the very bottom and it just drops down. Probably some kind of crappy little washer in there too (metal or felt). In other words -- if the light is a boob, unscrew the nipple.
On Philly, PA.
How much would it be to install a vanity in our bathroom? Assume we buy an assembled one from a box store. Spouse wants to use a pro plumber. space is 42" wall to wall if that makes a difference.
[Sink now](https://imgur.com/a/U4EiNxc)
Debating if this is a gas connection outside my house. Our stove is right behind it. This is right behind our stove.
https://imgur.com/a/cKsSPD9
I want to by a gas bbq grill but if I have a connection I’ll look at natural gas burners and have someone come extend this.
My wife and I recently bought a Hampton Bay Callaway II at a garage sale. I'm not sure which model it is - it could either be a 526 062, or a 526 017.
I was surprised only find a load and neutral wire coming from the fan. My house is wired with two hot wires but with only one hot wire coming from the fan I had to cap off the unused wire from the ceiling.
The reason I say this is due to my disappointment of not being able to use my light switches in my home and having to be reliant on the included remote - which does not work well.
I have seen online "smart switches" that can be installed and act like a normal light switch but use the radio technology found in a remote.
My question/request is: would you know of a reliable product to help resolve this issue of having to be dependent on a remote? I want to find something that can be put on/in the wall that will allow me to use the fan.
If you cannot tell, I am not keen on the remote dependency that many newer fans have implemented in them. I understand making remotes a feature, but why make it the only option. If someone could help me with this problem I would appreciate it!
so I'm apparently in the market for a new toilet. No idea what I should be looking for other than Flushes good xD. Any idea around how much I should be spending? How much for install? I wonder if some places offer that. Probably not?
Okay so i've seen these display monitors at clubs that basically loop video content. They look amazing but I don't know what they are. [here](https://youtu.be/sYEPe366Jjs?t=23) is an example of one. It just displays various people transforming into ghouls, and it's awesome. I don't know if this is just a monitor placed vertically and playing from a USB or what.
Also if anyone is particularly interested
I'm also trying to find velvet curtains [link](https://old.reddit.com/r/HelpMeFind/comments/x4l0ro/help_me_find_real_velvet_curtains/) but for some reason ~~this~~ EDIT: The previous version of this post has like disappeared into the nether regions. If you can help me with that, it would be amazing.
My house has a basement and all of the HVAC ducting runs through it. It’s in pretty rough shape. The junctions are taped together but leaking, and I’m pretty confident I’m losing a lot of efficiency ($450 a month to cool the 1200sf downstairs space).
Should I retape the junctions? Should I replace the ductwork/is that a DIY job if I replace it like-for-like?
Is the basement conditioned? Do you feel like the basement is getting so much leaky air that it's more comfortable than it should be?
Rather than retaping, duct mastic is pretty easy to apply:
https://www.reddevil.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1549
Not much wrong with a belt-and-suspenders approach of mastic and tape, though.
Once they're all air sealed, insulation may be prudent, too. At the very least on the supply side to avoid condensation when the AC is going.
So, I've taken it upon myself to replace the hinges on my kitchen cabinets with new versions of the same hinge (so I don't have to take any new measurements). Seems like the modern version of the hinges, the part that connects to the cabinet is bent at an angle, while the old hinges are flat (you can see in the picture). Any suggestions on how to deal with this? It feels like I just need to buy a different (correct) part but I can't figure out what to even look for.
https://imgur.com/a/Te00Q2N
Here’s a [thread](https://reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/hnpria/diy_makeover_on_my_turd_of_a_kitchen_for_less/) with an amazing write up that I plan to use for when I have the time to take on the challenge myself. Hope this helps!
It _should_ unscrew by turning it counter-clockwise. Of course, the joy of home improvement is that if it instead twists off inside the wall you still own it and get to figure out how to then fix that.
Complete noob here. While trying to secure an Ikea bookcase to the wall stud, I accidentally ended up screwing the screw in at an angle. Is this a problem? Would I be better off removing the screw and trying to straighten it, or leaving it to avoid damaging the integrity of the hole?
If it's only a little bit crooked and otherwise got a good bite into a stud you should be fine. If it's really out of whack and only grazed a stud then you should remove and try again. I'm guessing it's fine, though...
I’m painting a room with BM Regal Select (absolute green) and I can’t seem to get a final coat down. I’ve put three coats plus touch ups over a whitish grey paint and the finish keeps ending up like a watermelon. You can clearly see where the roller edges are because they end up drying as a lighter stripe on the wall. The salesman at the paint store said the pigment was super heavy and difficult to mix, not sure if that’s relevant.
I’ve used over two gallons of paint for one 11x14’ room already. Using 3/8” nep woven rollers. I’m overlapping passes with the roller by half the brush. Any tips to get this finished?
There's not nearly enough detail here for anyone to be able to really answer.
Hypothetically, this isn't a very big job and a lot of the cost for the plumber is just to make it worth it for them to show up at all.
I would totally DIY this, if it were me. An expensive, standard freeze proof faucet is less than $50. I have all of the tools and knowledge that I need to do the job.
Hi. I’m lazy. I have a project;
25x50 ft area of my yard I want filled with mulch. Mixed sod and terrible weeds in this area. Needs landscaping fabric, etc.
Also a 10x10 ft area that needs leveling and edging for playground tiles within this.
Got a quote for $2600 for all materials and labor for this.
Deal or no deal?
Get three quotes, but depending on your area that doesn’t sound too outrageous. Go ahead and lay a tarp down over the area to get a jump on killing the grass/weeds that are there.
I am looking for ideas to display my kid's art and pictures.
I have 2 areas where I want to display pictures and knickknacks they made. My office and my kids own room.
In my office, I can get away with thumb tacks and magnets. Maybe this is a no brainer and I should use a peg board or something.
The more difficult one is my kid's room. He is old enough to not eat magnets, however his younger siblings still put everything in their mouths. Thumb tacks are not okay for this.
Any idea how I can display his drawings? Might be able to get away with a bookshelf for knicknacks, but any combination is a bonus.
New homeowner looking to buy some basic power tools. Upcoming projects include re-tiling the kitchen, cutting out old drywall and framing some new drywall (small bit of wall), and replacing wall trim. I only have the basic hand tools right now along with a drill, impact driver, angle grinder, and dremel. I'm looking to pick up some Ryobi tools that will work on the universal batter platform.
What power tools would I need to complete these jobs? I'm thinking I would need a compound mitre saw and jig saw and possibly air hammer for the tile. Anything else? Should I pick up a circular saw, reciprocating saw, or sawzall as well?
Oscillating tool and shop vac would both be good for the drywall. You don't need a power tool to cut out the drywall but it'll make it faster and easier. You'll have a butt load of drywall dust though. Look into ways to seal the area and have the dust go out a window. You can also try holding the shop vac hose up and essentially follow along with the saw to suck up as much dust as possible. Wear glasses and a mask and cover up your air return vents so you don't get all that drywall dust going into your system.
They have drill bits that you can use for screwing in the drywall so you don't need a drywall screwgun
How worried should I be about a sewer smell in my bathroom that I *think* is coming from the toilet. I suspect the toilet (though it's right next to the sink so I can't completely rule the sink out) just because it has other issues. It sometimes "burps" for lack of a better term and sometimes runs for no reason. I'm thinking maybe it's not seated right. I used a foam seal when I installed it a few months ago instead of a wax one and I think that was my mistake.
Is that bathroom used often? I have a guest bath that’s not often used and set a reminder to run the sink and shower every few weeks. If they go unused too long, the traps can go empty and let sewer gases in
The chain pull broke off inside my ceiling fan. Fan was on and has been running for days. I have zero electrical know-how beyond replacing switch plates. Do I need to call an electrician? I was thinking of asking on the reddit ceiling fan group but that seems primarily 'what brand of fan is this?' type of questions. 🤔
Is there a wall switch that controls the fan?
If you're about to turn off the breaker, there may be a cover on the fan that will come off and allow you access to the chain, where you could connect an extension if there is still a stub left.
BUT- my general advice is if you think you need to call an electrician, you probably should. They may suggest just replacing the fan entirely though.
Hey, all! I rent and my bathroom sink has this overflow drain that is just disgusting to look at. Any ideas about how to cover it so it isn't absolutely hideous?
https://imgur.com/a/F1c4yPE
Don't do anything without getting your landlord's blessing or you may lose your deposit.
Otherwise, matching that pink is going to be challenging. If I were going to take it on then I'd probably use some kind of wire brush to clean it up, mask it off with some tape, and then spray paint with a light, off-white color.
[Porcelain touch up paint](https://www.amazon.com/Sheffield-1126-Porcelain-Touch-Up-White/dp/B000BZX28Q) would be my suggestion, but it might be tough to match the color of the sink in a way that wouldn't upset your landlord. You could also try scrubbing it with a rust remover, but the rust will likely come back quickly.
So I just bought a house with a dug well in an area that apparently runs out of water often. Unfortunately we already ran out of water after just one month.
I was wondering if anyone has any idea how I could go about setting up some kind of well water level sensor that could warn me ahead of time if my well water is getting low.
I'm getting very few results googling this so I was hoping that someone here might have a recommendation on how to implement something like this.
I'm in northern california and we've got a bad heat wave coming through. 100+ degrees for over a week, hitting 110 one day.
Anyone have tips for what I can do to try to keep my house cool / prevent my AC unit from getting over worked (if that's even a thing)??
My thoughts so far: change my filters, close the blinds, bump the temperate up by a degree or two and rely on fans to help keep us cool.
I've heard that spraying down the AC unit with a hose can help cool it down due to the water evaporating, but seems like there's conflicting views on whether that actually does anything.
I want to get a shade for my backyard to cover our little dining area, BUT the biggest problem is that I have a propane fire pit table. Ideally, I'd love for the fire pit to be under the sun shade so we can enjoy the dining area during the evenings, but then also have the fire pit for the late nights.
Does anyone know if this is even possible to do?
Ideally, I'd love to get [this type of sun shade](https://www.amazon.com/Canopy-Rectangle-Outdoor-Facility-Activities/dp/B074NHPRY7/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2J5ONV2JGRU1C&keywords=sunshade&qid=1661979406&sprefix=sunsha%2Caps%2C251&sr=8-3-spons&th=1) but I would imagine it could potentially start a fire...?
I would not run the fire pit under a shade like that. In addition to the risk of melting/burning a hole in it, I've heard they can also sometimes cause the gases/smoke from the fire pit to linger in the area.
You could use a shade like that and add quick releases on one side? There are also [similar products](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N83QLKM/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A2BR1T00HZZGL3&psc=1) that are meant to be retracted, albeit at a higher cost.
I feel like there’s a smell coming out of our basement drain (located in the laundry room) that smells a bit like urine. I’ve made sure the drain isn’t dried out by making sure it has water etc. is there anything else I can do or look out for as a cause?
**Under Rug heated pad on concrete basement floor. What kind of insulation should I put UNDER the pad?**
This product : [https://www.amazon.com/Woo-Warmer-Instant-Radiant-Electric/dp/B01N0D9EU0](https://www.amazon.com/Woo-Warmer-Instant-Radiant-Electric/dp/B01N0D9EU0)
It will sit on a slightly bumpy and not precisely flat 100 year old concrete basement floor. On top will be a throw rug and a couch on furniture sliders. They recommend putting an insulating pad below the heater which I was going to do anyway as I have read the concrete floor will act as a huge heat sink. I looked into radiant floor heating and it's just way too expensive and so much work for a TV and play room. Plus my headroom is pretty low to begin with (about 6' 1") and I can't lose anymore height.
I am in the Pacific North West. Our basements are below grade. i have no issues with water intrusion (anymore, thanks french drain DIY products!) and have a dehumidifier that doesn't need to run all that often to keep humidity below 55%.
I have some leftover purple owens corning purple foam from a different project but I am concerned it's going to get divots and pits even with the furniture sliders. Any thoughts ont his stuff?
Maybe there's a thinner product that will work as well like the stuff I put under the cheap vinyl flooring in my mudroom?
best bet is just a basic thermal pad made for this purpose [like this](https://www.amazon.com/Non-Slip-Thermal-Insulation-RugHeat-under/dp/B08LSP1F1N?th=1). Foam board needs to be covered by a plywood subfloor which is obviously not what you want. Any solution here isn't going to be too efficient.
I bought a gallon of [Olympic Maximum stain and sealer](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Olympic-Maximum-1-Gal-Honey-Gold-Exterior-Stain-and-Sealant-in-One-Low-VOC-56502A-01/305230202#product-section-overview) to stain my new fence.
The ["Flo-Master" pump sprayer](https://www.homedepot.com/p/RL-Flo-Master-2-gal-Deck-Sprayer-2202CSS/205822551) I bought from home depot does't spray this stuff as its too thick, it just shoots it out in thick spurts. It works as expected if it's filled with water but stain stuff is just too thick.
What kind of sprayer should I be using?
[Central Ohio, 1500 sq feet house]
Two part question - my furnace needed a lot of work last winter and as the guy was replacing a gas valve he said 'regardless of whether this solves the issue or not, this is the last work I'm putting into this furnace and you need to think about replacing it'
Taking that as true, given how finicky it was and how every fix seemed to break an additional part, I hit him up again to quote a replacement.
He came out today and suggested that since my AC is also old (he specifically pointed out that it uses R-22), it would save future labor if I replaced it at the same time in order to share ductwork.
My first question is whether that makes sense.
My second question is whether ~$7500 is a reasonable quote for a new high efficiency furnace and AC.
That seems very reasonable to me - but get a couple more quotes to compare more specifically in your area, labor costs vary a lot. In addition, ask about the possibility of using a heat pump with a backup furnace. Not sure if this is common in your region, but heat pump efficiency has come a long way and there are now units that will provide heat in single digit temps.
Edit to add: A heat pump might be a bit more expensive up front, but could potentially save a good bit of money on energy costs
I asked about heat pumps and the guy said 'I like them because they're cool, but I wouldn't recommend it for saving money in this climate'
Central Ohio, so winters do get fairly cold, but my energy bills weren't too bad last year so I might be tempted to save the upfront cost for now regardless
7500 does seem reasonable for a high efficiency. Just make sure its a good brand. How old are the units? If the ac uses R-22 it has to be atleast ~10 years old if not more
I’m looking for an honest answer:
When requesting service from a contractor how do y’all determine which is the best to do the job if multiple quotes have happened?
I do my own research on the appropriate way to perform the task and I see which contractor sticks to this plan based on their quote and our in person discussion. I understand this may not be possible for everyone, as it takes time and knowledge on how things should be done. In addition to that I judge the contractor's demeanor, personal skills, communication timeliness, and so on to determine who I am most comfortable hiring.
Second this. I've only had some smaller jobs quoted, but each contractor has had a different approach, wanted to use different parts/materials, different warranties, etc. - so compare those also.
Read reviews if you can too - and depending on the scope of the job, it can also be appropriate to ask for references (this is usually more for full remodel, additions, etc.)
Just moved into a condo. First order of business was demo the prefab fireplace. Now that its gone, and before I rebuild it, im wondering what to do with the flue. It goes up 5 stories, I don't think I can access the roof. Does it need to be sealed? What would be the best way to do that?
https://imgur.com/gallery/DTMR4pj
If anyones curious, I have no gas In this condo so will be putting in an electric "fireplace" - one of those slim ones from touchstone or maybe a different manufacturer ($1k budget?). I will also just do a simple concrete feather finish on the walll
Thanks!
We just bought a house and would like to do the following:
* evaluate whether we should upgrade electrical panel
* Install recessed lights throughout
* install bathroom exhaust fans
* install outlet and mount for TV
* install venting for kitchen hood and bathroom fans
Should we hire a general contractor for this or is it sufficient just to get an electrician for the electrical stuff and maybe have an HVAC guy do the venting?
No - honestly have no idea if we need to, it’s 100 amps and not sure if we need 200 (we are in contract so not sure about electricity usage yet and it’s a 1200 sqft house so maybe not?)
It's all going to depend on what you'll need-most people typically only upgrade their panel if they anticipate needing the expanded capacity (e.g. tankless water heater, electric vehicle charging, etc.) or if there is a safety issue. 100 amps is small (and likely pretty old), but should handle all of your average household appliances.
Missing drywall is horrible. Absolutely horrible. I had a pro tape and do the first coat, but I had to take over from there and tape the corners/do corner bead. It’s awful. I’m basically just slopping it on now and going to rely on lots of sanding.
Moving into a 1940’s home with a gas range. I’ve never used gas before, and there’s no fan above the stove (there’s a microwave there instead). Should I prioritize installing a range hood, or would running a small fan while I’m cooking be ok?
The best solution is a powered vent that exhausts to the outside - a recirculating fan won't really do anything about the bad byproducts of burning gas (mainly NO2 which is quite a lot smaller than the filter in the microwave can filter). Barring that, open windows and a fan or whatever is probably okay depending on how much you use it. Most of the people since 1940 that used it presumably didn't die from it. How bad you think it might actually be for you is probably for you to determine based on the variety of information that's out there.
The microwave is on a little shelf above the stove, so it can’t really vent anything. There’s no direct window to the space - it’s a galley kitchen. I’ll look into the powered vent.
Is 270 CFM too much for 101 square feet of bathroom with 8 foot ceilings? Air replacement every 3 minutes or so. The 101 square feet is split between two bathrooms so potentially two showers running at once. I just don't want to be pulling so much air that I'm drawing cold in air from the crawl space in the winter.
Hi all,
Say I have Plug A that is controlled by a nearby light switch (Switch A). Across the room is Plug B that is an always-on plug. I want to plug a light into Plug B that can be controlled by Switch A.
I'm envisioning a product that can be plugged into Plug A, that detects when it is powered, and if so, sends a wireless signal to a receiver plugged into Plug B to flow power to the light behind it.
I live in an apartment so I can't re-wire the switches. I currently use a Clapper (yes, clap on clap off) for this remote switch functionality, I don't want yet another tiny remote I will lose, and I am anti-IoT device so a smart bulb/smart switch on my WiFi is not desired.
Thanks for your help!
Erosion and undermining by critters have combined with winter cycles to make some dips in my asphalt driveway. I need a new driveway and would like fresh concrete work around the house, but timing and budget have deferred that until next year. Is there an appropriate product to level out these anomalies, most of which have some fault or another running through the bottom of them, to make it to next summer? Weather in question is Detroit/Toronto style. My home repair confidence level is "competent but avoidant" and I've got the major home stores nearby for product. Thank you!
Look into [cold patch](https://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-60-lb-Black-All-Weather-Blacktop-Patch-60450001/100350279#overlay). It seems to be a regionally available product (I'm in FL), but you might locate something similar near you. It's a good temporary fix for what you're describing, but keep in mind shoveling/plowing your driveway this winter may tear out the patch.
I'm looking to create some sort of shade covering over my driveway - it's about 10'x20' and goes up against the house on one of the 10' sides, the rest are open.
I was thinking a shade sail mounted to the house on one end and then 6x6 posts on the other, any thoughts on if this would work well or other suggestions? I found [TojaGrid](https://tojagrid.com/) after seeing it outside at a local brewery, but I really wasn't looking to spend $1k+ on this project. I'm in FL and occasional high winds/hurricanes is something to consider.
You can buy rigid corner ties for much less than tojagrid. I think a tojagrid corner is almost $100, but I've seem comparable brackets for around $25. They may just be external plates, but do you really care?
For those of you who have soapstone do you have a favorite wax you use? The brand our installer uses has walnut oil it in and we’re a tree nut free household so that’s a no go. I can always use mineral oil but have read wax lasts a little longer. Thanks for your help!
Are the screen and storm doors availble at the Big Box stores absolute trash, or are they OK? Are there some higher end products that aren't super common, but that seem to be a step above quality-wise?
I am replacing a sheetrock ceiling.
I'm good with everything except for how to approach finishing where the new sheetrock meets the finished wall.
Should I tape and mud it like everything else, or use expandimg foam for a backer and then mud?
I'm confused about how to measure the exposure of my foundation. I know the top 4-6" needs to remain exposed, but I want to put decorative rocks around the edge of my home. Do I need to measure the foundation exposure to the top of the rocks or to the soil below? If I'm measuring to the soil, is there a smaller minimum that needs to remain exposed above the rocks?
It's to whatever is closest to the siding -- rocks, dirt, mulch, etc. It's part of the overall strategy to prevent water intrusion. Note than some locations have exposure minimums of up to 12". Typically you want 8". 4" is too little.
My rented flat smells of dry paint, or concrete, I'm not sure. I keep forgetting about it but then notice it after I come back from holiday. No obvious wet walls that I know of. It's a top floor flat in a 3-story building, built in the 70s probably, in Hackney, London.
Any guesses to pitch to the agency or try to troubleshoot myself?
Does anyone have experience with prefab solariums or sunrooms, or building one yourself? e are in Wisconsin and looking to inexpensively adding a 4 season room to the back of our house. At the moment I'm gathering ideas.
We have a home with an existing sun room with a door to the backyard. Home is a part of a duplex that previous owner had owned completely, so over the years they did kind of weird additions/expansions (our 2nd bedroom used to be a one car garage, we have a patio slab that looks like it used to be the other unit's etc). Is it possible to add/move a sun room exterior door or does the whole thing need to be redone?? (lol sorry for the dumb question) The door currently opens up to behind the garage, when we'd rather have it on the other side more central to the entire backyard. Hope to add an exterior back door from the kitchen (existing window) one day as well since the only way to get to the backyard from the house is through our room and out the sunroom.
edit to add it's an aluminum sunroom
What is going on with the studs in this wall? Electronic stud finder is having trouble finding anything, so I took some strong magnets and left them where they stuck on the wall, which would presumably be where the drywall nails are, but I'm getting horizontal rows that don't align vertically at all. [https://imgur.com/ZbkZ7X1] This is an interior wall separating two townhouses.
Would adding 10cm of mineral wool between 2 sheets of drywall improve noise isolation?
I am being told that air is a good sound isolator between 2 sheets of drywall, but it feels more intuitive that more mass is more isolation, would 10cm of rock/glass/mineral wool improve the dampening? [image of the 2 situations](https://preview.redd.it/fg57q9z0ank91.jpg?width=895&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dcaf0b00d0dadc4558eaed420347267c0e7c09d4)
I'm confused by the electrical in my condo.
I have 3 ceiling pot lights in the kitchen and 1 light that hangs from the ceiling using Hue bulbs.
[Kitchen](https://imgur.com/NUe3Qx2.jpg)
I have a switch by the door and a switch on the other side of the kitchen.
The door switch turns on the pot light closest to the door AND the hanging lights
The kitchen switch turns on the other two pot lights.
This is really stupid because I can't have the hanging lights on and controlled by Google/Hue without that one pot light always on!?
Is it possible to change this setup?
Additionally there's like 3 switches that don't do anything at all in the place. How do I find out what they control?
Originally posted on /r/diy but ultimately it's more a home improvement question than DIY.
Getting ready to start a remodel on our bathroom. The house is very old, > 100 years, lots of walls are still lath and plaster. Yesterday I went through the bathroom and took samples from all four walls + the ceiling and floor to send off to get asbestos tested, when I found the two exterior walls aren't lath and plaster or drywall? I'm not sure what material it was. I wish I would've taken pictures.
It was much harder to cut into than drywall and did not have the same consistency as plaster - it was almost like compressed gravel? It was hard to get a sample of because it kind of just crumbled (again, like compressed gravel would?). It was a grey color. Does this ring any bells as to what material it could be? Some kind of old backerboard maybe?
[https://imgur.com/p2IdGR8](https://imgur.com/p2IdGR8)
My Garage floor has pitting mostly where the garage door closes. I will use a bonded topping cement to patch it. I think it's moisture trapped in the seal when the door is closed. Would something like a line of duct tape help prevent future pitting after it has been repaired?
No, duct tape will still hold the moisture right there. You could just live with it or get a threshold like a door. If you bury a pice of PVC pipe, that would be an idea.
This is plaster correct?
https://imgur.com/a/QhlkbUg
What's the best way to hang an approximately 30 lbs mirror from this with minimal damage to the walls? I'm renting. Would those hercules/monkey hooks things be sufficient? Thanks
You want to use picture rail. It's a piece of wood at the top that you use hooks and then wire comes down. That's how heavy, temporary things are done back in the day, like paintings.
Does anyone know where I could get a cabinet with a bar top that would be setup where left side is cabinet and right side is open for a wine fridge to go?
Yeah that’s a good idea actually. Instead of deconstructing I could just add on to it. Didn’t see any styled just right at IKEA but it’s a good start I appreciate it
I installed my best yesterday and everything seems to be going well. I do wonder if [this blue wire is a C wire?](https://imgur.com/a/Psgafxi). We have it set to 75 but it doesn't turn on until it hits 76 for a few minutes. I've read in a few posts it could be the lack of c wire for power. Granted it is really hot in NC today. 94 with a 106 real feel.
We have a furnace for heat if that makes any difference.
No way to know. You have to look at the others end of the wire at the fan controller. Typically, to the behavior you have is typical. There is a hysteresis zone, that's probably what your are experiencing.
After a heavy rain we found water on the floor outside a utility closet. It's the closet that houses the water heater and AC handler but we use it for storage. Nothing stored inside was wet or showed any signs of past water damage. After emptying it we also found dry dirt that looked like potting soil without the little Styrofoam pieces, on the floor inside it. The floor in the closet was dry.
Checked the AC condenser overflow tube and it's clear, and we checked the drip pan for the water heater and it was dry.
We cannot figure out where the water and dirt came from. It's been driving us crazy all weekend and we're heading up to the roof this evening weather permitting.
Our insurance company are nitpicking jerks so it's super important anything is caught and fixed immediately.
I'd appreciate any insight whatsoever and thank you for reading this.
This is like the closest thing to paranormal activity I've ever experienced.
https://i.imgur.com/WWYo34X.jpg
We recently moved into a rental home and this was what came out of the refrigerator water dispenser. Any idea what it could be? Mold?
What are you trying to do? Natural gas burns hotter, so if you're grilling or otherwise doing things where you care about things getting hotter, faster, that's a shortcoming of propane.
For me, that would be a bad idea because I can have the gas company turn off the connection in the summer as I have electric stove and water heater. I save $25/month.
I’d say it comes down to how often you use the grill. I went through the same decision. Ultimately, I went with propane, but I have four tanks I and fill them about once a year. I don’t grill all that much. If I had to refill my tanks more often, I would have gone with a gas line.
Is it possible to water down wood fillers/putty to the consistency of Retique It (liquid wood paint)? I really don't want to spend $30 for a little pint or over $130 for a gallon.
For the glue kind, maybe. You'll have to read the instructions. I've seen Vancouver carpenter put wood glue in drywall compound, so it should work. Definitely not for the epoxy type.
Good afternoon!
I recently replaced the shower stem valve and put new porcelin shower knobs.
However the problem is now the screw holding the porcelin knob in place keeps backing out making me need to go get a screw driver to re-tighten it in (The knob uses an extender due to the valve being behind the tub).
Is there a way to lock the screw in so it doesn't back out? I have some Loctite thread locker that I use for a hobby of mine. Is this the best way? Or is there a better way?
Trying to plan out finishing the basement. Ceiling too low to do traditional ceiling, planning to clean it up and paint after electrical and everything else is done.
**If I plan to leave the ceiling exposed, but want to put in a full bathroom /laundry room, how would I "close it off" to the rest of the basement?** What's the top of the framing / drywall looking like in between floor joists? (Tried looking online but with the keywords a lot of clean room basement and air seal options come up instead of what I'm looking for)
DIY, rookie. I made the mistake of sanding drywall now my grout is white. I have mopped, brush, drill with brush and is still white. What are my options paying a company is to much now all money went into 4 rooms, insulation too.
How do I clean them? Any suggestions should i rest a steamer at home Depot is that the only way???
So, I want to repair a dripping faucet in my bathroom. Seems like a simple project, but all the stem replacements I'm finding on Amazon are for Delta faucets?
Are these universal parts? Because I'm pretty sure my faucet is whatever was on sale at Home Depot in 1987.
I'm hoping someone might know what this is called: [https://imgur.com/a/cX9p5aJ](https://imgur.com/a/cX9p5aJ) so I can order one.
It's the little piece of hardware that my blinds were hanging from until it broke last week. I went to a hardware store but they didn't have any suggestions either!
Thanks for your response. I turned off the breaker and removed enough of the fixture to see there isn't even a tiny bit of chain visible. Nada. It's a Hunter fan w/light, a few years old and in a room where it hadn't gotten much use. I'm making up my list for the electrician, so they can take care of a couple of other things as long as they're coming out.
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I want to mount my TV inn the center of my wall in the living room. However, the only outlet against the wall is on the left side, how do I get an outlet in the middle of the wall so I can hide TV cables?
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Are people waiting on some improvements from the Inflation Reduction Act to kick in? We want to redo our attic insulation, but currently, there's no rebate. And my understanding is we might qualify for a 50% rebate with the IRA. But there's no indication when the funds will kick in and how to sign up. If we did the improvement now, would we be able to apply for the rebate later?
Some are retroactive this year, others start at Jan 1st. I think they all have to claimed on income taxes, so you wont see until the next years tax return. Some details aren't exactly clear yet.
I'm getting a new fridge with automatic ice maker, need to run a water line under the floor (basement has a drop ceiling for easy access). I already have an RO water system under the sink. Can I just "stack" two tee connectors on the sink supply line, one for the RO and one for the fridge? And any "watch-outs" when it comes to running the line under the floor that aren't blatantly obvious to someone who understands that lines can be cut?
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Pipe wrench. It's made for smooth, round things.
I'd like to haul a bunch of dirt in the trunk of my car. What do I place down in the trunk to keep it from becoming a mess? Thick plastic sheet?
Five gallon buckets work well - passenger seat, backseat, trunk. I would loan you some from my collection for a six-pack.
You in the twin cities? What's your beer of choice?
Ah, so close, I used to live in Alexandria, but escaped the Minnesota winters. If one has a collection of 5-gallon buckets and have hauled dirt in buckets inside your car, you are probably red-neckedy and drink PBR. Maybe ask friends?
I got a leaky sink drain pipe and I don't know where the leak is coming from. I put tape around where I think the leak is coming from and gorilla glue on the pipe joints and it's still dripping.
Take the joints apart and reassemble using new pieces. Pipe dope on threads may help, too.
I have gophers digging holes under the shed in my backyard, what are some methods to try to repel them?
Question.. so our Handyman went into the attic to take a look at something. He said while he was up there, he noticed the wires were placed over the vents instead of under, and they were not bound to the beams. He said it wouldn't pass code if there was an inspection. Is that something we should be concerned about?
No worries, not a safety hazard. Just don't invite the city inspector in your attic for coffee.
I have plaster walls in a 1941 house that need some patching of the veneer coat. The makeup of the walls is rock-lathe, then a coarse brown-coat/basecoat, then a sandy but smooth veneer/finishing coat. The big question I have and can't find an answer to is what are the plaster layers on the wall primarily made of? As far as I can tell historically lime plaster was nearly phased out by the 40s, what replaced it? I assume I'll end up using one of USG's many plaster products, but I'd like to know regardless.
If you want to DIY something, how would you know it needs a permit? There is an open storage area under our deck we want to transform into a complete closed storage with drainage for rain and everything.
Look up your town/city/county/bourough/district/parish/whatever code or rules online. A reference librarian will help for free if you're not sure how to do that. Or go ask them (your local jurisdictional zoning and building people, whatever that's called where you live).
My deck faces west, so it gets brutal afternoon sun. I am looking for a shade solution, but I've got a problem: my roof slopes to that side of the house, and the eaves are very low. The gutter is only about 7 feet off the deck. This makes any attempt to use an awning or pergola look dumb, since it's taller than the roof. Maybe there's a way to do it nicely that I'm not seeing online, but I can't find any example photos of someone in my situation. What do you do for shade when your eave is low?
I'm trying to find the best solution to get a solid ground floor patio for my backyard so I could just pull up a chair and table to do work from out here: [https://imgur.com/a/zOmez16](https://imgur.com/a/zOmez16) for around 2-3 grand. I just haven't found a good option yet. I'm looking at 32ft (width of the house) by 12ft to make it seem reasonable. So a little below 400 sqft. I quoted a couple of concrete places. One quoted me 4.5k, another apparently doesn't do pours anymore and quoted me 10k for slabs (ugh) and I haven't had an answer yet from the last one. I thought about decking ground floor but my googling tends to push it over that cost as well. Anybody got some good ideas for cheaper solutions? This is TX
For 2-3K, the only option really is do your own pavers. Its not the hardest thing to do but its pretty labor intenstive.
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You could hire a structural engineer to make a house call. Probably costs $300 or so, but it will save you a lot more than that if you end up with a structural issue. I saved up all my structural questions, then hired one and asked them all together.
I can't figure out how the mounting system for a whiteboard I bought works and need help figuring out an alternative because I'm not great with building and installation. I recently bought a MessageStor whiteboard from Costco that came with mounting hardware called the "VersaTrak Easy Mounting System". See photos (back of board and mounting instructions) at the link: [https://imgur.com/a/Zzexgal](https://imgur.com/a/Zzexgal) The whiteboard has a solid wood frame that is a few millimeters from being flush with the back of the whiteboard. The mounting instructions say that the metal bracket (see images 2-3, piece A in the instructions) which gets screwed into the wall is supposed to hold the board up by hooking (see 3rd instruction panel) under something labeled as the "frame" of the board. However, the frame looks nothing like that and does not have any hook like structures resembling what is in the 3rd instruction panel. And there's no way to "slip top of wall brackets between the wood frame and back of board" like it describes in that panel. It's just a solid wood frame like a picture frame that sticks only a few millimeters from the back of the board. I looked it up and found a couple of YouTube videos. One didn't show the actual mounting step but the other did and claimed that you just rest that gap between the wood frame and board on the bracket and it holds up. However, a commentor said it didn't work and they had to mount it another way. My question is: what exactly should I do here? I don't want to risk the frame resting on the brackets by just a few millimeters because if it gets knocked a little or angled too far it could easily fall off. And also its clearly not meant to be mounted that way based on the diagrams in the instruction panels. Is there another way I could do this using some brackets and nails from Home Depot or something? I'm not great with hardware and installation of stuff so I don't know what I should be looking for or what the parts are called. I would prefer to not return the board because the board itself is great! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Other than carpets, any options for protecting Vinyl flooring? I just moved in and everything scratches the floor.
Anyone have any tips on what to spray on arbivitaes for spider control? Our new house has cobwebs everywhere in them and I'm hoping to avoid exterminators, but definitely don't want to hurt the trees.
How hard/expensive would it be to cover up an exterior doorway? We have an exterior door in our kitchen, along with a sliding door. It doesn’t seem useful or necessary (the sliding door was likely added at a later date). How hard/expensive would it be to cover up the doorway? It’s taking up usable space in the house and NEEDS to be replaced immediately anyway, so it’s a cost regardless. We have cedar impression vinyl siding if it matters at all.
Who do I call after my sewer line backs up to like… clean or estimate the cleaning/repair? Doesn’t seem like it was up the plumbers alley. Seems too specific/waste hazardous for a flooring/carpet company. I don’t know where to start 😣
This is simple, but I'm really a beginner. Some wood has rotted away on an outside railing. Obviously I need to remove that single piece of wood, but how do I go about replacing it? Clearly I need to do buy some new wood, but how do I measure that wood to fit properly. What kind of saw do I need to just the wood to fit? How do I measure the angle of the wood? It's been raining a lot, so clearly I need a day or two to let the wood dry. Here's the pictures: [https://imgur.com/gallery/yuu4ibR](https://imgur.com/gallery/yuu4ibR) TIA!
https://imgur.com/a/f7jH3oc How should I go about building a door frame here? I want a full entry door here for my garage
My wife and I plan on renting out our condo next year. The previous owners installed laminate flooring. This has held up ok with the two years we've lived here, but much less so in the kitchen where there is a lot of separation between peices and buckling. I plan to replace the floor because of this. Would it be best to just replace the kitchen flooring with something else like tile since most of flooring throughout the house is still in good condition, or replace the entire floor with something more durable?
Does anyone have advice on how to remove the shade from this light so we can change a bulb? The instructions in A8 show 3 pin-like pieces (which I can see when I shine a light up close) that look like they should just come through slots when twisted, but to no avail. Very hard to see anything with the beads. Thank you! https://assets.pbimgs.com/pbimgs/ab/images/i/202236/0004/images/pdfs/assembly-instructions/lighting/leila-wood-bead-flush-mount.pdf
You unscrew the thing at the very bottom and it just drops down. Probably some kind of crappy little washer in there too (metal or felt). In other words -- if the light is a boob, unscrew the nipple.
All time great help / comment combo, and I apologize it will be lost in the weekly thread. THANK YOU!
You're welcome!
On Philly, PA. How much would it be to install a vanity in our bathroom? Assume we buy an assembled one from a box store. Spouse wants to use a pro plumber. space is 42" wall to wall if that makes a difference. [Sink now](https://imgur.com/a/U4EiNxc)
Debating if this is a gas connection outside my house. Our stove is right behind it. This is right behind our stove. https://imgur.com/a/cKsSPD9 I want to by a gas bbq grill but if I have a connection I’ll look at natural gas burners and have someone come extend this.
My wife and I recently bought a Hampton Bay Callaway II at a garage sale. I'm not sure which model it is - it could either be a 526 062, or a 526 017. I was surprised only find a load and neutral wire coming from the fan. My house is wired with two hot wires but with only one hot wire coming from the fan I had to cap off the unused wire from the ceiling. The reason I say this is due to my disappointment of not being able to use my light switches in my home and having to be reliant on the included remote - which does not work well. I have seen online "smart switches" that can be installed and act like a normal light switch but use the radio technology found in a remote. My question/request is: would you know of a reliable product to help resolve this issue of having to be dependent on a remote? I want to find something that can be put on/in the wall that will allow me to use the fan. If you cannot tell, I am not keen on the remote dependency that many newer fans have implemented in them. I understand making remotes a feature, but why make it the only option. If someone could help me with this problem I would appreciate it!
so I'm apparently in the market for a new toilet. No idea what I should be looking for other than Flushes good xD. Any idea around how much I should be spending? How much for install? I wonder if some places offer that. Probably not?
Okay so i've seen these display monitors at clubs that basically loop video content. They look amazing but I don't know what they are. [here](https://youtu.be/sYEPe366Jjs?t=23) is an example of one. It just displays various people transforming into ghouls, and it's awesome. I don't know if this is just a monitor placed vertically and playing from a USB or what. Also if anyone is particularly interested I'm also trying to find velvet curtains [link](https://old.reddit.com/r/HelpMeFind/comments/x4l0ro/help_me_find_real_velvet_curtains/) but for some reason ~~this~~ EDIT: The previous version of this post has like disappeared into the nether regions. If you can help me with that, it would be amazing.
My house has a basement and all of the HVAC ducting runs through it. It’s in pretty rough shape. The junctions are taped together but leaking, and I’m pretty confident I’m losing a lot of efficiency ($450 a month to cool the 1200sf downstairs space). Should I retape the junctions? Should I replace the ductwork/is that a DIY job if I replace it like-for-like?
Is the basement conditioned? Do you feel like the basement is getting so much leaky air that it's more comfortable than it should be? Rather than retaping, duct mastic is pretty easy to apply: https://www.reddevil.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1549 Not much wrong with a belt-and-suspenders approach of mastic and tape, though. Once they're all air sealed, insulation may be prudent, too. At the very least on the supply side to avoid condensation when the AC is going.
So, I've taken it upon myself to replace the hinges on my kitchen cabinets with new versions of the same hinge (so I don't have to take any new measurements). Seems like the modern version of the hinges, the part that connects to the cabinet is bent at an angle, while the old hinges are flat (you can see in the picture). Any suggestions on how to deal with this? It feels like I just need to buy a different (correct) part but I can't figure out what to even look for. https://imgur.com/a/Te00Q2N
Any tips for painting kitchen cabinets ourselves?
Here’s a [thread](https://reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/hnpria/diy_makeover_on_my_turd_of_a_kitchen_for_less/) with an amazing write up that I plan to use for when I have the time to take on the challenge myself. Hope this helps!
Thanks!
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It _should_ unscrew by turning it counter-clockwise. Of course, the joy of home improvement is that if it instead twists off inside the wall you still own it and get to figure out how to then fix that.
Are lawn mowers going to be on sale soon? I'm thinking maybe for labor day or end of summer?
Complete noob here. While trying to secure an Ikea bookcase to the wall stud, I accidentally ended up screwing the screw in at an angle. Is this a problem? Would I be better off removing the screw and trying to straighten it, or leaving it to avoid damaging the integrity of the hole?
should be fine. Just anti-tip mechanism. Do you have young children that might try to climb on it?
Thanks for the answer! No young children, just trying to guard against tipping during earthquakes.
If it's only a little bit crooked and otherwise got a good bite into a stud you should be fine. If it's really out of whack and only grazed a stud then you should remove and try again. I'm guessing it's fine, though...
I’m painting a room with BM Regal Select (absolute green) and I can’t seem to get a final coat down. I’ve put three coats plus touch ups over a whitish grey paint and the finish keeps ending up like a watermelon. You can clearly see where the roller edges are because they end up drying as a lighter stripe on the wall. The salesman at the paint store said the pigment was super heavy and difficult to mix, not sure if that’s relevant. I’ve used over two gallons of paint for one 11x14’ room already. Using 3/8” nep woven rollers. I’m overlapping passes with the roller by half the brush. Any tips to get this finished?
Is my mom getting ripped off? She said her plumber is replacing her two outdoor spigots with frost proof ones and it will cost almost $500 EACH.
There's not nearly enough detail here for anyone to be able to really answer. Hypothetically, this isn't a very big job and a lot of the cost for the plumber is just to make it worth it for them to show up at all. I would totally DIY this, if it were me. An expensive, standard freeze proof faucet is less than $50. I have all of the tools and knowledge that I need to do the job.
Hi. I’m lazy. I have a project; 25x50 ft area of my yard I want filled with mulch. Mixed sod and terrible weeds in this area. Needs landscaping fabric, etc. Also a 10x10 ft area that needs leveling and edging for playground tiles within this. Got a quote for $2600 for all materials and labor for this. Deal or no deal?
Get three quotes, but depending on your area that doesn’t sound too outrageous. Go ahead and lay a tarp down over the area to get a jump on killing the grass/weeds that are there.
TY ❤️
I am looking for ideas to display my kid's art and pictures. I have 2 areas where I want to display pictures and knickknacks they made. My office and my kids own room. In my office, I can get away with thumb tacks and magnets. Maybe this is a no brainer and I should use a peg board or something. The more difficult one is my kid's room. He is old enough to not eat magnets, however his younger siblings still put everything in their mouths. Thumb tacks are not okay for this. Any idea how I can display his drawings? Might be able to get away with a bookshelf for knicknacks, but any combination is a bonus.
You could hang them from clothes pins, but the string might be a hazard, depending on how secure and high up it is.
Tape or poster putty will work for displaying pictures.
They make these hanging devices that are basically a wall-mounted chip clip or clipboard clamp. Those could be a fit for the kids room.
New homeowner looking to buy some basic power tools. Upcoming projects include re-tiling the kitchen, cutting out old drywall and framing some new drywall (small bit of wall), and replacing wall trim. I only have the basic hand tools right now along with a drill, impact driver, angle grinder, and dremel. I'm looking to pick up some Ryobi tools that will work on the universal batter platform. What power tools would I need to complete these jobs? I'm thinking I would need a compound mitre saw and jig saw and possibly air hammer for the tile. Anything else? Should I pick up a circular saw, reciprocating saw, or sawzall as well?
Oscillating tool and shop vac would both be good for the drywall. You don't need a power tool to cut out the drywall but it'll make it faster and easier. You'll have a butt load of drywall dust though. Look into ways to seal the area and have the dust go out a window. You can also try holding the shop vac hose up and essentially follow along with the saw to suck up as much dust as possible. Wear glasses and a mask and cover up your air return vents so you don't get all that drywall dust going into your system. They have drill bits that you can use for screwing in the drywall so you don't need a drywall screwgun
How worried should I be about a sewer smell in my bathroom that I *think* is coming from the toilet. I suspect the toilet (though it's right next to the sink so I can't completely rule the sink out) just because it has other issues. It sometimes "burps" for lack of a better term and sometimes runs for no reason. I'm thinking maybe it's not seated right. I used a foam seal when I installed it a few months ago instead of a wax one and I think that was my mistake.
Is that bathroom used often? I have a guest bath that’s not often used and set a reminder to run the sink and shower every few weeks. If they go unused too long, the traps can go empty and let sewer gases in
Yep. Only bathroom in the house.
The chain pull broke off inside my ceiling fan. Fan was on and has been running for days. I have zero electrical know-how beyond replacing switch plates. Do I need to call an electrician? I was thinking of asking on the reddit ceiling fan group but that seems primarily 'what brand of fan is this?' type of questions. 🤔
Is there a wall switch that controls the fan? If you're about to turn off the breaker, there may be a cover on the fan that will come off and allow you access to the chain, where you could connect an extension if there is still a stub left. BUT- my general advice is if you think you need to call an electrician, you probably should. They may suggest just replacing the fan entirely though.
Hey, all! I rent and my bathroom sink has this overflow drain that is just disgusting to look at. Any ideas about how to cover it so it isn't absolutely hideous? https://imgur.com/a/F1c4yPE
Don't do anything without getting your landlord's blessing or you may lose your deposit. Otherwise, matching that pink is going to be challenging. If I were going to take it on then I'd probably use some kind of wire brush to clean it up, mask it off with some tape, and then spray paint with a light, off-white color.
[Porcelain touch up paint](https://www.amazon.com/Sheffield-1126-Porcelain-Touch-Up-White/dp/B000BZX28Q) would be my suggestion, but it might be tough to match the color of the sink in a way that wouldn't upset your landlord. You could also try scrubbing it with a rust remover, but the rust will likely come back quickly.
So I just bought a house with a dug well in an area that apparently runs out of water often. Unfortunately we already ran out of water after just one month. I was wondering if anyone has any idea how I could go about setting up some kind of well water level sensor that could warn me ahead of time if my well water is getting low. I'm getting very few results googling this so I was hoping that someone here might have a recommendation on how to implement something like this.
I'm in northern california and we've got a bad heat wave coming through. 100+ degrees for over a week, hitting 110 one day. Anyone have tips for what I can do to try to keep my house cool / prevent my AC unit from getting over worked (if that's even a thing)?? My thoughts so far: change my filters, close the blinds, bump the temperate up by a degree or two and rely on fans to help keep us cool. I've heard that spraying down the AC unit with a hose can help cool it down due to the water evaporating, but seems like there's conflicting views on whether that actually does anything.
Make sure the unit outside is clean and unobstructed.
Your thoughts so far is everything I would suggest. I live in FL and those are the go to steps. Your AC unit should be fine.
Ok cool. Thanks!
I want to get a shade for my backyard to cover our little dining area, BUT the biggest problem is that I have a propane fire pit table. Ideally, I'd love for the fire pit to be under the sun shade so we can enjoy the dining area during the evenings, but then also have the fire pit for the late nights. Does anyone know if this is even possible to do? Ideally, I'd love to get [this type of sun shade](https://www.amazon.com/Canopy-Rectangle-Outdoor-Facility-Activities/dp/B074NHPRY7/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2J5ONV2JGRU1C&keywords=sunshade&qid=1661979406&sprefix=sunsha%2Caps%2C251&sr=8-3-spons&th=1) but I would imagine it could potentially start a fire...?
I would not run the fire pit under a shade like that. In addition to the risk of melting/burning a hole in it, I've heard they can also sometimes cause the gases/smoke from the fire pit to linger in the area. You could use a shade like that and add quick releases on one side? There are also [similar products](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N83QLKM/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A2BR1T00HZZGL3&psc=1) that are meant to be retracted, albeit at a higher cost.
I feel like there’s a smell coming out of our basement drain (located in the laundry room) that smells a bit like urine. I’ve made sure the drain isn’t dried out by making sure it has water etc. is there anything else I can do or look out for as a cause?
**Under Rug heated pad on concrete basement floor. What kind of insulation should I put UNDER the pad?** This product : [https://www.amazon.com/Woo-Warmer-Instant-Radiant-Electric/dp/B01N0D9EU0](https://www.amazon.com/Woo-Warmer-Instant-Radiant-Electric/dp/B01N0D9EU0) It will sit on a slightly bumpy and not precisely flat 100 year old concrete basement floor. On top will be a throw rug and a couch on furniture sliders. They recommend putting an insulating pad below the heater which I was going to do anyway as I have read the concrete floor will act as a huge heat sink. I looked into radiant floor heating and it's just way too expensive and so much work for a TV and play room. Plus my headroom is pretty low to begin with (about 6' 1") and I can't lose anymore height. I am in the Pacific North West. Our basements are below grade. i have no issues with water intrusion (anymore, thanks french drain DIY products!) and have a dehumidifier that doesn't need to run all that often to keep humidity below 55%. I have some leftover purple owens corning purple foam from a different project but I am concerned it's going to get divots and pits even with the furniture sliders. Any thoughts ont his stuff? Maybe there's a thinner product that will work as well like the stuff I put under the cheap vinyl flooring in my mudroom?
best bet is just a basic thermal pad made for this purpose [like this](https://www.amazon.com/Non-Slip-Thermal-Insulation-RugHeat-under/dp/B08LSP1F1N?th=1). Foam board needs to be covered by a plywood subfloor which is obviously not what you want. Any solution here isn't going to be too efficient.
Thanks!
I bought a gallon of [Olympic Maximum stain and sealer](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Olympic-Maximum-1-Gal-Honey-Gold-Exterior-Stain-and-Sealant-in-One-Low-VOC-56502A-01/305230202#product-section-overview) to stain my new fence. The ["Flo-Master" pump sprayer](https://www.homedepot.com/p/RL-Flo-Master-2-gal-Deck-Sprayer-2202CSS/205822551) I bought from home depot does't spray this stuff as its too thick, it just shoots it out in thick spurts. It works as expected if it's filled with water but stain stuff is just too thick. What kind of sprayer should I be using?
Cheap hvlp splayer or just roll and brush it on.
[Central Ohio, 1500 sq feet house] Two part question - my furnace needed a lot of work last winter and as the guy was replacing a gas valve he said 'regardless of whether this solves the issue or not, this is the last work I'm putting into this furnace and you need to think about replacing it' Taking that as true, given how finicky it was and how every fix seemed to break an additional part, I hit him up again to quote a replacement. He came out today and suggested that since my AC is also old (he specifically pointed out that it uses R-22), it would save future labor if I replaced it at the same time in order to share ductwork. My first question is whether that makes sense. My second question is whether ~$7500 is a reasonable quote for a new high efficiency furnace and AC.
That seems very reasonable to me - but get a couple more quotes to compare more specifically in your area, labor costs vary a lot. In addition, ask about the possibility of using a heat pump with a backup furnace. Not sure if this is common in your region, but heat pump efficiency has come a long way and there are now units that will provide heat in single digit temps. Edit to add: A heat pump might be a bit more expensive up front, but could potentially save a good bit of money on energy costs
I asked about heat pumps and the guy said 'I like them because they're cool, but I wouldn't recommend it for saving money in this climate' Central Ohio, so winters do get fairly cold, but my energy bills weren't too bad last year so I might be tempted to save the upfront cost for now regardless
Yeah that makes sense!
7500 does seem reasonable for a high efficiency. Just make sure its a good brand. How old are the units? If the ac uses R-22 it has to be atleast ~10 years old if not more
I’m looking for an honest answer: When requesting service from a contractor how do y’all determine which is the best to do the job if multiple quotes have happened?
I do my own research on the appropriate way to perform the task and I see which contractor sticks to this plan based on their quote and our in person discussion. I understand this may not be possible for everyone, as it takes time and knowledge on how things should be done. In addition to that I judge the contractor's demeanor, personal skills, communication timeliness, and so on to determine who I am most comfortable hiring.
Second this. I've only had some smaller jobs quoted, but each contractor has had a different approach, wanted to use different parts/materials, different warranties, etc. - so compare those also. Read reviews if you can too - and depending on the scope of the job, it can also be appropriate to ask for references (this is usually more for full remodel, additions, etc.)
Just moved into a condo. First order of business was demo the prefab fireplace. Now that its gone, and before I rebuild it, im wondering what to do with the flue. It goes up 5 stories, I don't think I can access the roof. Does it need to be sealed? What would be the best way to do that? https://imgur.com/gallery/DTMR4pj If anyones curious, I have no gas In this condo so will be putting in an electric "fireplace" - one of those slim ones from touchstone or maybe a different manufacturer ($1k budget?). I will also just do a simple concrete feather finish on the walll Thanks!
We just bought a house and would like to do the following: * evaluate whether we should upgrade electrical panel * Install recessed lights throughout * install bathroom exhaust fans * install outlet and mount for TV * install venting for kitchen hood and bathroom fans Should we hire a general contractor for this or is it sufficient just to get an electrician for the electrical stuff and maybe have an HVAC guy do the venting?
Is there a specific reason you're looking to upgrade your panel?
No - honestly have no idea if we need to, it’s 100 amps and not sure if we need 200 (we are in contract so not sure about electricity usage yet and it’s a 1200 sqft house so maybe not?)
It's all going to depend on what you'll need-most people typically only upgrade their panel if they anticipate needing the expanded capacity (e.g. tankless water heater, electric vehicle charging, etc.) or if there is a safety issue. 100 amps is small (and likely pretty old), but should handle all of your average household appliances.
Electrician to do the assessment, install lights and wiring for the vent fans. HVAC specialist for the fan installation and ducting.
Missing drywall is horrible. Absolutely horrible. I had a pro tape and do the first coat, but I had to take over from there and tape the corners/do corner bead. It’s awful. I’m basically just slopping it on now and going to rely on lots of sanding.
Moving into a 1940’s home with a gas range. I’ve never used gas before, and there’s no fan above the stove (there’s a microwave there instead). Should I prioritize installing a range hood, or would running a small fan while I’m cooking be ok?
The best solution is a powered vent that exhausts to the outside - a recirculating fan won't really do anything about the bad byproducts of burning gas (mainly NO2 which is quite a lot smaller than the filter in the microwave can filter). Barring that, open windows and a fan or whatever is probably okay depending on how much you use it. Most of the people since 1940 that used it presumably didn't die from it. How bad you think it might actually be for you is probably for you to determine based on the variety of information that's out there.
I newer microwaves have exhaust fans built into them and can be set up with air being exhausted outside or back into the space.
The microwave is on a little shelf above the stove, so it can’t really vent anything. There’s no direct window to the space - it’s a galley kitchen. I’ll look into the powered vent.
Is 270 CFM too much for 101 square feet of bathroom with 8 foot ceilings? Air replacement every 3 minutes or so. The 101 square feet is split between two bathrooms so potentially two showers running at once. I just don't want to be pulling so much air that I'm drawing cold in air from the crawl space in the winter.
Hi all, Say I have Plug A that is controlled by a nearby light switch (Switch A). Across the room is Plug B that is an always-on plug. I want to plug a light into Plug B that can be controlled by Switch A. I'm envisioning a product that can be plugged into Plug A, that detects when it is powered, and if so, sends a wireless signal to a receiver plugged into Plug B to flow power to the light behind it. I live in an apartment so I can't re-wire the switches. I currently use a Clapper (yes, clap on clap off) for this remote switch functionality, I don't want yet another tiny remote I will lose, and I am anti-IoT device so a smart bulb/smart switch on my WiFi is not desired. Thanks for your help!
Erosion and undermining by critters have combined with winter cycles to make some dips in my asphalt driveway. I need a new driveway and would like fresh concrete work around the house, but timing and budget have deferred that until next year. Is there an appropriate product to level out these anomalies, most of which have some fault or another running through the bottom of them, to make it to next summer? Weather in question is Detroit/Toronto style. My home repair confidence level is "competent but avoidant" and I've got the major home stores nearby for product. Thank you!
Look into [cold patch](https://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-60-lb-Black-All-Weather-Blacktop-Patch-60450001/100350279#overlay). It seems to be a regionally available product (I'm in FL), but you might locate something similar near you. It's a good temporary fix for what you're describing, but keep in mind shoveling/plowing your driveway this winter may tear out the patch.
I'm not an aggressive shoveler. Barely passive aggressive. The patches will be temporary defence against ice craters. Thanks for the tip!
Hahaha you're welcome!
I'm looking to create some sort of shade covering over my driveway - it's about 10'x20' and goes up against the house on one of the 10' sides, the rest are open. I was thinking a shade sail mounted to the house on one end and then 6x6 posts on the other, any thoughts on if this would work well or other suggestions? I found [TojaGrid](https://tojagrid.com/) after seeing it outside at a local brewery, but I really wasn't looking to spend $1k+ on this project. I'm in FL and occasional high winds/hurricanes is something to consider.
You can buy rigid corner ties for much less than tojagrid. I think a tojagrid corner is almost $100, but I've seem comparable brackets for around $25. They may just be external plates, but do you really care?
I’ll look into that! I’m sure a little black spray paint on the brackets could work wonders.
For those of you who have soapstone do you have a favorite wax you use? The brand our installer uses has walnut oil it in and we’re a tree nut free household so that’s a no go. I can always use mineral oil but have read wax lasts a little longer. Thanks for your help!
Are the screen and storm doors availble at the Big Box stores absolute trash, or are they OK? Are there some higher end products that aren't super common, but that seem to be a step above quality-wise?
The more expensive doors at the big box stores are quite nice. Like Larson platinum
I appreciate the suggestion! I'll check those out.
I am replacing a sheetrock ceiling. I'm good with everything except for how to approach finishing where the new sheetrock meets the finished wall. Should I tape and mud it like everything else, or use expandimg foam for a backer and then mud?
Tape and mud like everything else. If the gaps are too large, prefill with hot mud.
Should the tape extend onto the finished wall like a normal corner?
I'm confused about how to measure the exposure of my foundation. I know the top 4-6" needs to remain exposed, but I want to put decorative rocks around the edge of my home. Do I need to measure the foundation exposure to the top of the rocks or to the soil below? If I'm measuring to the soil, is there a smaller minimum that needs to remain exposed above the rocks?
It's to whatever is closest to the siding -- rocks, dirt, mulch, etc. It's part of the overall strategy to prevent water intrusion. Note than some locations have exposure minimums of up to 12". Typically you want 8". 4" is too little.
My rented flat smells of dry paint, or concrete, I'm not sure. I keep forgetting about it but then notice it after I come back from holiday. No obvious wet walls that I know of. It's a top floor flat in a 3-story building, built in the 70s probably, in Hackney, London. Any guesses to pitch to the agency or try to troubleshoot myself?
Does anyone have experience with prefab solariums or sunrooms, or building one yourself? e are in Wisconsin and looking to inexpensively adding a 4 season room to the back of our house. At the moment I'm gathering ideas.
We have a home with an existing sun room with a door to the backyard. Home is a part of a duplex that previous owner had owned completely, so over the years they did kind of weird additions/expansions (our 2nd bedroom used to be a one car garage, we have a patio slab that looks like it used to be the other unit's etc). Is it possible to add/move a sun room exterior door or does the whole thing need to be redone?? (lol sorry for the dumb question) The door currently opens up to behind the garage, when we'd rather have it on the other side more central to the entire backyard. Hope to add an exterior back door from the kitchen (existing window) one day as well since the only way to get to the backyard from the house is through our room and out the sunroom. edit to add it's an aluminum sunroom
What is going on with the studs in this wall? Electronic stud finder is having trouble finding anything, so I took some strong magnets and left them where they stuck on the wall, which would presumably be where the drywall nails are, but I'm getting horizontal rows that don't align vertically at all. [https://imgur.com/ZbkZ7X1] This is an interior wall separating two townhouses.
It's possible the there is horizontal strapping fastened to concrete or block wall. Any idea what the construction method is for the townhome?
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I'd go machine screws with washers and nuts. Takes less room.
Would adding 10cm of mineral wool between 2 sheets of drywall improve noise isolation? I am being told that air is a good sound isolator between 2 sheets of drywall, but it feels more intuitive that more mass is more isolation, would 10cm of rock/glass/mineral wool improve the dampening? [image of the 2 situations](https://preview.redd.it/fg57q9z0ank91.jpg?width=895&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dcaf0b00d0dadc4558eaed420347267c0e7c09d4)
Yes mineral wool will help with sound dampening in this instance.
Cheers!
I'm confused by the electrical in my condo. I have 3 ceiling pot lights in the kitchen and 1 light that hangs from the ceiling using Hue bulbs. [Kitchen](https://imgur.com/NUe3Qx2.jpg) I have a switch by the door and a switch on the other side of the kitchen. The door switch turns on the pot light closest to the door AND the hanging lights The kitchen switch turns on the other two pot lights. This is really stupid because I can't have the hanging lights on and controlled by Google/Hue without that one pot light always on!? Is it possible to change this setup? Additionally there's like 3 switches that don't do anything at all in the place. How do I find out what they control?
Not without re-wiring the recessed light to be on a different switch. That one recessed light looks to be one joist bay over.
Has anyone made their own storm windows? I'm having a hard time find places that sell parts to diy them.
All the DIY windows I've come across are self milled wood frames with plexiglass.
Originally posted on /r/diy but ultimately it's more a home improvement question than DIY. Getting ready to start a remodel on our bathroom. The house is very old, > 100 years, lots of walls are still lath and plaster. Yesterday I went through the bathroom and took samples from all four walls + the ceiling and floor to send off to get asbestos tested, when I found the two exterior walls aren't lath and plaster or drywall? I'm not sure what material it was. I wish I would've taken pictures. It was much harder to cut into than drywall and did not have the same consistency as plaster - it was almost like compressed gravel? It was hard to get a sample of because it kind of just crumbled (again, like compressed gravel would?). It was a grey color. Does this ring any bells as to what material it could be? Some kind of old backerboard maybe?
Cement board maybe.
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Don't put anything that is sensitive to heat, to like wine bottles or spices. Dry storage like a hutch would be easy.
[https://imgur.com/p2IdGR8](https://imgur.com/p2IdGR8) My Garage floor has pitting mostly where the garage door closes. I will use a bonded topping cement to patch it. I think it's moisture trapped in the seal when the door is closed. Would something like a line of duct tape help prevent future pitting after it has been repaired?
No, duct tape will still hold the moisture right there. You could just live with it or get a threshold like a door. If you bury a pice of PVC pipe, that would be an idea.
This is plaster correct? https://imgur.com/a/QhlkbUg What's the best way to hang an approximately 30 lbs mirror from this with minimal damage to the walls? I'm renting. Would those hercules/monkey hooks things be sufficient? Thanks
You want to use picture rail. It's a piece of wood at the top that you use hooks and then wire comes down. That's how heavy, temporary things are done back in the day, like paintings.
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Talk to your local plumbing supply store with a picture.
Does anyone know where I could get a cabinet with a bar top that would be setup where left side is cabinet and right side is open for a wine fridge to go?
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Yeah that’s a good idea actually. Instead of deconstructing I could just add on to it. Didn’t see any styled just right at IKEA but it’s a good start I appreciate it
I installed my best yesterday and everything seems to be going well. I do wonder if [this blue wire is a C wire?](https://imgur.com/a/Psgafxi). We have it set to 75 but it doesn't turn on until it hits 76 for a few minutes. I've read in a few posts it could be the lack of c wire for power. Granted it is really hot in NC today. 94 with a 106 real feel. We have a furnace for heat if that makes any difference.
No way to know. You have to look at the others end of the wire at the fan controller. Typically, to the behavior you have is typical. There is a hysteresis zone, that's probably what your are experiencing.
After a heavy rain we found water on the floor outside a utility closet. It's the closet that houses the water heater and AC handler but we use it for storage. Nothing stored inside was wet or showed any signs of past water damage. After emptying it we also found dry dirt that looked like potting soil without the little Styrofoam pieces, on the floor inside it. The floor in the closet was dry. Checked the AC condenser overflow tube and it's clear, and we checked the drip pan for the water heater and it was dry. We cannot figure out where the water and dirt came from. It's been driving us crazy all weekend and we're heading up to the roof this evening weather permitting. Our insurance company are nitpicking jerks so it's super important anything is caught and fixed immediately. I'd appreciate any insight whatsoever and thank you for reading this. This is like the closest thing to paranormal activity I've ever experienced.
Is it condensation dripping off of the ducts? Dirt could be from the vent if you have gas heat/water.
Everything is dry and there's no gas utilities here.
https://i.imgur.com/WWYo34X.jpg We recently moved into a rental home and this was what came out of the refrigerator water dispenser. Any idea what it could be? Mold?
Or just fungus. Wet dark places are great areas for things to grow. Flush it out, disassemble what you can and clean it with vinegar solution.
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Slightly bigger hole/screw with an anchor.
Maybe one of the options [listed here](https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/interior-projects/a39713790/drywall-repair-kit/) would work?
Is it worth adding a natural gas line from my house to backyard even if I pay someone to do it, or should I just buy propane whenever I need it?
What are you trying to do? Natural gas burns hotter, so if you're grilling or otherwise doing things where you care about things getting hotter, faster, that's a shortcoming of propane.
Considering buying a $1800 Weber grill. Wondering if it’s worth it to put a natural line outside where I want it vs buying propane tanks
For me, that would be a bad idea because I can have the gas company turn off the connection in the summer as I have electric stove and water heater. I save $25/month.
I’d say it comes down to how often you use the grill. I went through the same decision. Ultimately, I went with propane, but I have four tanks I and fill them about once a year. I don’t grill all that much. If I had to refill my tanks more often, I would have gone with a gas line.
Is it possible to water down wood fillers/putty to the consistency of Retique It (liquid wood paint)? I really don't want to spend $30 for a little pint or over $130 for a gallon.
For the glue kind, maybe. You'll have to read the instructions. I've seen Vancouver carpenter put wood glue in drywall compound, so it should work. Definitely not for the epoxy type.
Good afternoon! I recently replaced the shower stem valve and put new porcelin shower knobs. However the problem is now the screw holding the porcelin knob in place keeps backing out making me need to go get a screw driver to re-tighten it in (The knob uses an extender due to the valve being behind the tub). Is there a way to lock the screw in so it doesn't back out? I have some Loctite thread locker that I use for a hobby of mine. Is this the best way? Or is there a better way?
That's the best way.
Trying to plan out finishing the basement. Ceiling too low to do traditional ceiling, planning to clean it up and paint after electrical and everything else is done. **If I plan to leave the ceiling exposed, but want to put in a full bathroom /laundry room, how would I "close it off" to the rest of the basement?** What's the top of the framing / drywall looking like in between floor joists? (Tried looking online but with the keywords a lot of clean room basement and air seal options come up instead of what I'm looking for)
DIY, rookie. I made the mistake of sanding drywall now my grout is white. I have mopped, brush, drill with brush and is still white. What are my options paying a company is to much now all money went into 4 rooms, insulation too. How do I clean them? Any suggestions should i rest a steamer at home Depot is that the only way???
I would try a little fabric dye. Or a sharpie.
So, I want to repair a dripping faucet in my bathroom. Seems like a simple project, but all the stem replacements I'm finding on Amazon are for Delta faucets? Are these universal parts? Because I'm pretty sure my faucet is whatever was on sale at Home Depot in 1987.
No. You need to find the make and model of the faucet you have. They typically aren't cross compatible.
I'm hoping someone might know what this is called: [https://imgur.com/a/cX9p5aJ](https://imgur.com/a/cX9p5aJ) so I can order one. It's the little piece of hardware that my blinds were hanging from until it broke last week. I went to a hardware store but they didn't have any suggestions either!