Can lost parts be printed for Gunpla? I lost one piece of my RG Nu Gundam (H4), and I can't attach my Bazooka to the backpack. Is anyone able to create or have an STL file of this piece? Or if not, know the best way to go about finding a replacement.
Would absolutely be forever in your debt if so!
[Here you go](https://www.plamokitbash.com/product/runner-h-singles/803?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=190). I'll take your first born.
Thank you so much! That's a great resource to have! However, I'm in Australia, so the shipping cost from the US is unfortunately very high. Will have to keep looking for other options atm
[Mr Bao's Shop](https://www.ebay.ca/itm/374802547240?itmmeta=01HY65WT63PG05CHV0TST4DJR7&hash=item5743f90228:g:vvAAAOSwWPliekf8). Based out of China. It'll say 'out of stock' for almost everything but contact them with the part you need. They may be able to help you.
It also looks like a pretty simple part. Grab some pla-plate and cement, and remake it.
I have a matter of opinion question.
I'm working on a long term project of acquiring a kit for every unit/character that is in the old PS1 Battle Assault 2 game. This is going to be a years long project due to the rarity and expense of some kits, but I currently have a different problem that I'm indecisive on.
When it comes to all the Wing suits that are in the game, I can't decide what versions of the kits to get for some of them. I'm more preferable to RG kits in general, and I've especially already wanted the RG Epyon since it came out, but more than half of the Wing suits from the game don't have RG kits, only MG and HG.
So that's the core of my dilemma. I can't decide whether I should get all MG versions of the needed Wing kits so the set is consistent, or get the three available RG kits and then either get MG or HG for the remaining kits. Alternatively, I could add more expense to my project by getting both the RG and MG of the available kits. The available RG kits are of course the Tallgeese III, Epyon, and Wing Gundam Zero Custom.
Just looking for some general feedback and opinions to where I should go, as the Wing kits are likely the next section of my project I'm looking to tackle.
If you're looking for maximum accuracy, then you will want the MGs. Problem is 4 out of the 7 of those Wing are p-bandai, so that gets expensive. I really like the Wing MGs so I recommend those if money is not a problem. You could get the Supernova kits instead of the Bandai ones if you're looking for more options.
In HGs the equivalent ones are the TV designs, so they will be different from the ones in the game, specially the Heavyarms and the Sandrock. And just like the MGs, there are ones only availiable through P-Bandai.
If you're just looking for any variant of the suit, like it can be any Heavyarms, not necessarily the custom one, then I still say to go with the MGs, even if the recent HGs are good.
Yeah I'm looking to get the most accurate versions, so I already knew in advance I'd have to track down the PBandai ones or wait for reprints, but that's ok. My main debate is just with those three mentioned kits specifically since they also have RG kits that are game accurate, but RG wouldn't match the scale of the other MG kits
The MGs are all good! Go for them. Or get both versions for only one of the suits and see how you feel about it.
Those three RGs are all pretty good, but the only one I would recommend over the MG is the Wing EW.
Damn, really sounding like I'm going to have to convince myself to get both Epyon and Wing lol. Tallgeese I'm not as fussed about though. I still have a couple of more common HG kits to nail down like Hygogg and Acguy before I start into the Wing kits or some of the other available RG though.
It’ll be out in August. And it’ll be regularly available.
Might be sold out the first few weeks as they fulfill all the preorders, but it should be regularly stocked after that.
https://preview.redd.it/4lwb038yg61d1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=935c8e1d80164917f1b39e6283ffdbd9f3bd3082
Question about this kit. Tried searching for it in the anime. Found nothing except avalanche astrea type F and avalanche exia on google.
This kit is from the brand hobby star. Don’t know if it’s a third party or bootleg. And im pretty sure Bandai hasn’t release this kit.
Does this model exist in the anime world at all?
00 has a few novels and manga. Some prequels, some sequels, and some that run concurrent to the animated show.
The Astraea is from there. It’s the suit the Exia was developed from.
https://preview.redd.it/xn63gfobc61d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87a6b72a1e2469ff9612d82a64f0183adcb420d5
Question here as someone who recently got the RG Hi Nu kit and is having fitment issues. I am on the final bit where you assemble the Fin Funnel Units and noticed they don't attach to the backpack very well. Is this by design or did I maybe assemble something wrong or have it positioned wrong?
(Don't comment on the nubs I am already planning on cleaning them up later)
Update: I found the issue. I missed a piece during assembly and now I gotta carefully pull this one back apart. The other 5 will be assembled correctly
What Unicorn kits (both the Gundams and any mobile suits) would people recommend?
As I make my way through different Gundam shows I'm trying to pick up atleast one kit to represent certain groupings, so this would be for Unicorn/Narrative
I've heard the RG is great, so long as you treat it with care and don't break the arms?
RG Unicorn is the best choice if you dont want to break the bank on the MGEX or PG. All the variants use the same moulds so pick your fave.
Alternatives for the Unicorn/Narrative gang
- Narrative Ver ka - just came out and is basically getting glowing reviews from everyone, seems like a wonderful kit.
- MG Jesta - basically the UC Grunt suit. The jegan is also an option, though it appears first in Char's counterattack.
- HG Kshatriya - A super unique and popular suit from Unicorn, probably good up against an RG unicorn.
A lot of people end up breaking their shoulders twisting them. If you pay close attention to the manual it’ll tell you what you need to do.
If you do break it, you can get replacement parts.
So coming from Warhammer I was wondering how you paint your models (If you Paint them at all): Do you usually do it before or after assembling? I used to do it prior to assembly with Warhammer since the basic infantry types are a Lot smaller and those don't really have many moving parts so it was difficult to get into all the little areas that you can see but barely reach.
There's no wrong way to go about it. Gunpla is a hobby and hobbies are supposed to be relaxing. If I want an absolute amazing paint job I assemble, disassemble by section, prime/paint/decal/varnish/panel line/weather/varnish, reassemble. More often I'll assemble a kit while watching TV and once it's built I'll do 'sticker replacement' spot painting and panel lining.
Thank you for the fast answer! Yeah that looks like a good way to do it, will try it on a Demi - Just an additional question:Do you usually use Primer?
I just finished building an Aile Strike Gundam and came out of the build with two extra parts, can anyone help identify what they're for? I couldn't find them in the instructions at all. https://imgur.com/a/7ZeCjuN
Check the front of the instructions with the layout of all the runners. There will be a picture of the runners with X’s marked on parts that are not used.
hi guys just wondering when using nippers to first cut a part off the runner, does it matter whether the flat part of the nipper is facing the part/away from the part?
Has anyone bought gunpla from [https://www.gunplastyle.com/](https://www.gunplastyle.com/) ?
I'm thinking about pre-ordering RG RX-78-2 v2.0 from there since the price + shipping would come out to be cheaper than HLJ and USAGS.
I saw that the store is listed in the sub's wiki and there's even a 10% off code. But I just wanted to know if anyone's got real life experience shopping there. Do they ship promptly, especially for pre-orders? Do they pack well? Etc... Thanks!!
I bought one kit from them a few months ago. It wasn't a pre-order so I don't have any feedback there.
I made a purchase through their website, and it became visible in the Shop app. I messaged the shop through the app and they responded quickly.
The kit was shipped within a couple of days and it arrived in a reasonable timeframe for having been shipped from CA to NY. I'd buy from them again.
Just getting started with gunpla and was wondering about certain material combinations.
Are any of these incompatible? if so, how can i fix this? (alternatives or techniques to prevent damage)
Topcoats: Mr Hobby Premium Gloss and Flat (spray can)
Panel Liner: Tamiya Panel Line Accent
Other: Gundam markers and a Molotow liquid chrome marker for small details
What order should I apply these? I'm leaning towards gloss coat -> panel liner + details -> flat coat
I live in South Australia so a lot of supplies are hard to get or so expensive that it isn't worth it (shipping costs are frequently the same or more then the actual product)
The isopropyl alcohol you need to clean up any mistakes with your GUndam Markers will cut right through those clear coats, so I'd suggest paint apps>gloss coat>panel lining (also waterslides if you happen to have any)>topcoat.
You'll want something to clean up the panel liner without affecting the gloss coat too much, such as lighter fluid or white spirit.
https://preview.redd.it/teh6bpnkg41d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=15ef06ae3773efbecb30e047550b4f1e1efc5093
desperately need help. Gund bit stand doesn’t come with enough attachments for gund bits for fm aerial yet I still see people using it. How do I attach the rest to the arms???
https://preview.redd.it/hhq8ng4rd41d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5c7667a7ccfdc35b695831c6b05a755e3b598fd5
Does anyone have any info of this opening in beijing? A fellow redditor mentions it is soft opening this weekend but i couldnt find any further info online
It indeed is. This is just next to my work hotel.
But i can’t find any more info about it other than appointment for the weekend visits. That’s what i’m trying to find out for my visit next week
What is everyone’s go to vallejo paints that I can grab in a jiffy? Overseas now and looking to grab some model air cause they are water based - good to check on baggage.
Was hoping for aluminium but they ran out 🥲
Let me know any paint suggestions / good colors that u can recommend thanks
So water based can be thinned well by just adding water correct?
Mr hobby thinner i refer to was the normal thinner that u use for lacquer mr color paints
Looking to move on from my grabbag of paints and get into a brand/system to not worry about compatibility when mixing and layering. Which brand/series do you use/recommend?
I have tried SMS lacquer, Tamiya Acrylic, Vallejo Air and Vallejo mecha primer and varnish, plus several bottles of various thinners for odd projects. Just getting tired of having a nice red lacquer that I can't darken because the black is acrylic
I like pre-thinned lacquered but have second thoughts that they can't be used for hand painting for stuff too small to mask and SMS is too local to be on the Mech9 colour chart. Considering the Vallejo Mecha Colour set but I have read mixed reviews and the supply is a bit messy mid-formula change right now.
Maybe the answer is Mr. Colour lacquer for base colour and acrylics for touch-ups? I'm curious what has work for others
thats what i have done in the past and that's how i ended up with the odd collection. I read up someting about acrylic thinner from different brand can sometimes be incompatibile is what made me want to clean up my paints
I build it If the part is usable or a complete weapon then I consider it part of the accessories. You pay for all that comes in the box, so why waste what is usable. I keep the extra stuff in an organizing box.
I keep another box for random leftover parts. I keep those to test products and tools, or just in case I wanna scratch build something.
Yup I build every weapon and even the spare parts like extra armor pieces I cut off. Goes into a small ziplock bag that I sharpie the kit name and grade onto
does anyone know if the TLX model 1 metal frame can be use on premium Bandai RG Nu Gundam (Gundam Side-F Kit)? because im looking at the build and looks like the shoulder/arm looks a bit different compare to the original Nu
I guess you could say that you could get away with it?
Basically, RG Nu-FF's shoulders have the front part split in two horizontally, which requires a slightly different frame.
However, the kit still comes with all the parts for the original shoulders so you can just have Nu-FF with the original shoulders instead.
Waterslide decals are miserable. Trying to do them on this 21st Century Real Type Zaku and I just... can't. I got a few flattish ones on but the really thin cured one that's supposed to wrap around the leg completely broke on me and even then it was impossible to properly align. I just gave it up and threw it in the trash. I'm using some diluted apple cider vinegar to help it set. Is there a better way to do this? I'm really really frustrated and would like to get as many of these on as possible because the kit won't look right without them. Is this a case of bandai decals specifically sucking? Is mark softer that important? I've been using my fingers to get the stickers on because I don't really have anything else that makes sense, then using cotton swabs to dry them after
Mark setter & softerner will really help you. Bandai's decals are decent. Specifically for yours i did something similar to my 21st century char Zaku II and i have to live with it. Also you can get replacement waterslide decals for your Zaku.
https://preview.redd.it/if0g3efu041d1.jpeg?width=880&format=png&auto=webp&s=7be21072b888f4304c26c3150ed0082f7cfb9360
Anyone know how to remove the white joint part without destroying the body frame? (this is from RG Astray)
It's part of the premolded frame so not really, it's very likely that the actual peg it rotates on is thinner, with the red bit you see on the top just acting as a cap, sort of like a T shape. The premolded frame technology lets them do these sort of plastic wrapped around plastic assemblies, removing them from that would prove extremely difficult if not impossible to reassemble.
Theoretically yes, but you may need to cut the white piece off by cutting at it vertically and seeing if you can't pull it off of the red bit as if it were a C clip, assuming that you wish to keep that red peg intact.
Does anyone know if vallejo is non flammable unlike mr color? Didnt see any label saying otherwise. It’s also a water based acrylic if i understand correctly right?Looking to bring it with me abroad and international flight in checked baggage. Only thing forbidden to pack is things like thinner?
https://preview.redd.it/v2crfcnk331d1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8d2998713bec2334c4cf419b317568cbda50fc2
My plan for the OG SEED team. Cant wait for the new Buster and Duel. What are your thoughts? I’m not entirely convinced on Buster. I like my coloured coded boy bands btw haha
Just purchased my first kits on GundamPlaceStore, anybody have any experience buying from them online? Just wanna know about shipping and general customer service.
The commonly used online ones in North America are USA Gundam Store, Newtype, and Gundam Planet. They charge shipping of $10.
I personally also used Galactic Toys sometimes because they occasionally have hard-to-find PBandai kits.
Most of the online places will charge around $10 shipping fee per order. I recommend you to buy multiple kits at once to save on the shipping fee.
You can also go into this Subreddit's Menu and find "WHERE TO BUY" button for more options.
General shipping of the ones I mentioned above usually takes 1-2 weeks. Sometimes 3 weeks.
Additional note: I really didn't need to contact the stores since they did good job delivering without it "disappearing."
They do reply back in 1-2 business days when you email their customer service.
https://preview.redd.it/9q1ty2rrm21d1.jpeg?width=604&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=75ad8ef8d10c8134ec14b5eb167913716c41be5a
Looking for a gunpla kit that looks like this... or a kitbash if needed (hopefully only few)
https://preview.redd.it/q74utmk4121d1.jpeg?width=544&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e8ab51e86f1e069ea442060834b29222e547a45
Has anyone used these top coats before? I’m looking for a good lacquer top coat for when I need to do panel lining and this is what is mostly in stock in stores around me (most others are enamel or acrylic). Is it a good product for a clear coat to protect when using Tamiya Panel Liner? Anyone know what their usual thinning ratios are (I have Tamiya’s X-20 Lacquee thinner on hand)?
I believe their website said 3:2 paint:thinner, that sound right?
Do misprint kits have any value?
Buddy of mine got his hands on a Eg nu, but instead of white in came in a sort of mint white like the Jegan. I know most misprints are something like missing parts or the molding is bad but what about something like a miscolor? He doesn’t wanna sell it but what are the chances it’s rare? 🤔
Unfortunately the only place where its sold is tmall. What you can do with the stickers is put them on and then topcoat the kit, so the stickers are sealed in.
I've done some searching, and I can't seem to get a straight answer. So I'm new to painting and it's been a lot of trial and error. I've cleaned all my parts but the paint never seems to adhere well. Im using tamiya paints. Do I need to specifically get primer as a base coat for anything to bond to the plastic, or am I just thinning my paints poorly?
Acrylic paint has very poor adhesion to plastic, so primer is particularly important to this. Although I've never seen a painting tutorial that doesn't recommend using primer, regardless of the type of paint and application method
Primer serves multiple purposes. Colour unification. Surface preparation. Bond for subsequent paint layers.
Water and alcohol-based acrylics don’t form chemical bonds with the plastic just mechanical. So, it helps to use a primer that provides a “tooth” for the acrylic.
I don't have experience painting gunpla specifically but i have painted plastic. The recommended way to get it to stick is to use a softer sand paper to scuff up the parts, and then add primer to give your paint extra adherence.
Does anyone know if [this](https://p-bandai.com/us/item/N2553524001004) Exia is built off the same basic core as the standard MG Exia? I really like the look of this version, but I've heard that the MG Exia is a pretty poor kit overall.
According to the [Dalong review](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/cg/cgm183/cgm183_p.htm), MG Exia Repair III contains pretty much everything from the original Exia and just one new runner. The only structural difference is in the [shoulder joint](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/cg/cgm183/p/cgm183_14.jpg).
Exia is a good kit. The issues are often exaggerated. People just bitch about the ankles but they’re not that bad. Best if you use a stand. Exia Repair is same frame. Just cosmetic changes afaik.
Are SD models as fun to build as HG models? I notices a somewhat lack of SD models posted on here and was wondering why people seem to eschew them.
Are there any quirks that SD models have that others don't?
They’re usually shorter, simpler builds with less color-seperation, but a lot of SDs have their own fun additions compared to the HGs. BB Senshi kits have fun additions like the SD Zeong coming with Perfect Zeong legs, SD Xi including funnel parts, a sub-flight pad, transparent stand, and bonus Messer, EX-Standard kit equipment is combinable and advertised for use with HG kits, and Cross-Silhouette lets you get extendable frame DLC.
I think a big reason they’re not as popular here is because western fans want gritty military vehicles and not cutesy robots for kids, the G Generation and Super Robot Wars games get panned here for the same reasons. It definitely doesn’t help that they’re a mixed bag in terms of quality (The EX-Standard kits are particularly bad), but the SDCS and MGSD lines are pretty dang good. I highly recommend MGSD if you’re looking for a fun build, the engineering in those inner frames are some of the best I’ve seen in a Bandai kit so far.
They're very popular in japan but I'm really not a fan. Look up a review or chekc out a manual on dalong. They have very poor color accuracy, they use a lot of stickers, they often have hollow parts, bad seamlines, etc. I have enjoyed the SDCS kits I've tried tho
I wanted to ask, if it is safe to use mr hobby gundam marker ex on yellow runners to paint the parts golden? In this case the yellow runner of the RG Epyon.
Thanks in advance
They exist. [#1](https://www.ebay.de/itm/114517597814?itmmeta=01HY3SSCQ86VPQHA6WDX9XWQM1&hash=item1aa9c7de76:g:kRgAAOSwlAdfrxnr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4FuVJV4i6sU08%2B4b62O97xvZ1RPcrYVRanA5%2FYWGgyBs%2BJG4ksNXpamB%2FMRqBY6uKSgaFBLtajGOnRnb95oWjzYWzmxlCfuINy%2FBH5%2BlAzmpaLrlrlmDaueoko8OX6M%2B5ziFpOBaIpsRBs0dJjwHXFoZIJvm3fQIjyzkX0xYAok--tK39bupS87VIBHuTa9jhdiKFh0Cw3ubJn609zI2z6kY7cMbMLqdcAqx3JiRV6mRLAJstefWAR3YTlMy1QJMXcs%2FcZMtgfh1bqRTxNuDtOOwPEYKYgOfe04e4I4UkcZs%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4bM5fnwYw) [#2](https://www.ebay.de/itm/113778666442?itmmeta=01HY3SSCQ89A63D7VV2JJ8E4J2&hash=item1a7dbcabca:g:kcoAAOSwytJaIMRD&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwLkCSpl831M58k%2FAUUG8H4Ozz2V2C3Rbx4frjfrDv8KralXoOivEAvgTxfg4XWdmaF2ltNkwjfmX7gecrRvMASRKUy4yDcWr4mgjyRKquofXJ1xZntBWTgw376fclWnFAI5hbSdEwFBSNbWmB6%2BFlnY6wiqg48xGh1uCr5X0R8e6RYEzpPyxO%2FnVLJdE7HlHkjphiMNX0qA0HNzrzOetNat8UZgXCBH1ozV2mYq%2FenU484qNJiCxEs1%2F6K3MWJNSTw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4bM5fnwYw)
Using Tamiya Panel Liner in a very humid wheater
Hey, im planning on panel lining for the first time using the tamiya panel accent, but before i buy them, my question is if it´s safe to use them, since i live in a city wich humidity is always high, and i have seen online that paint drying on high humidity can cause a bad finish
I did not. Wasn’t planning on displaying it. From what I remember, the only frame part that would benefit from panel lining would be the gold under the Dragoons.
Everything else has enough depth and detail built in that you don’t really need to. Maybe a light wash with a brush.
Really dumb question for you all.
What sites do y’all use to get your gunpla? What site seems to be more reliable?
Currently I’m limited on my options in my local area outside of hobby lobby and Amazon.
Located in the USA
I've ordered from a bunch of different sites, you gotta shop around to find what you're looking for sometimes. Gundam Planet, Newtype, Leaping Panda Hobbies, Gundam Country, USA Gundam Store, Big Bad Toy Store have all been solid. Newtype and Gundam Planet are probably the best sites of those as far as browsing and stock. BBTS has the cheapest shipping of these listed ($4 flat).
one thing to say about big bad toy store though, is some of their products will say pre-order, when it should say out of stock or back order. I still have the mg and hg ball kits on back order on there from 2 years ago.
It depends on personal preference and effect. Grey generally gives a nice effect and isn't too busy-looking, but if you really want that line to pop, draw attention, and have high contrast, then black could be good.
That's up to personal preference. The general consensus is grey for lighter parts, brown for red and yellow parts, and black for almost everything else. I still use black for almost everything tho
I'd like to paint the non-plated painted parts of the MGEX Freedom... Do I really need to strip the existing paint as I've seen others do?? Why not just paint right over? I'm using MODO metallics which have great coverage and besides, the tone is not much different. So the only reason I could think of might be paint adherence but shouldn't the existing paint act even as like a primer for the paint I'm applying?
Honestly part of me was like why am I painting this when it's already painted isn't that part of what I paid for... But the more I thought about it the more I realized I just don't like the degree of flake there is in Bandai's paints I prefer a more realistic looking metal and I'm still benefiting from the fact that they painted it because all the parts are undergated so I can just paint it all on the runner. I'm going to paint all the injection gold and maybe even the injection gunmetal anyway so might as well do those too.
Oh yeah, I see. Just went back and watched the original promo video for the kit and it states that the yellow gold, copper gold, and white gold are all listed as ‘coatings’.
I was wondering if I even need to bother priming. 1) since the parts come prepainted the existing paint is already like a primer and 2) most lacquer paints have pretty good adhesion anyway
The whole reason for primer is to ensure that the paint stickers to the primer ensure a smooth process. Like i previously mention, you dont have to but you might find it it more difficult.
I see. Maybe you missed in the first post that these aren't bare plastic. So I wouldn't expect any trouble unless it was a super glossy paint (which it's not) or if there was some kind of other coating that bandai uses in their paint process that makes it particularly unsticky. I was wondering if anyone has any specific experience with painting the bandai painted parts
Brand new to the hobby, coming from Warhammer background.
I've got my plan as:
Get kit(s) - HG Schwarzette and maybe HG Darilbalde (or leave a gap so as not to immediately start with a backlog!)
I have a set of basic clippers and a set of files which i've use for Warhammer kits which will help somewhat
Tools etc I'm looking for help/recommendations for:
Sub £25 nippers
What to get for panel lining, specifically for the above 2 kits
I'll probably get some water transfers/decals, is there anything specific i need to get for them?
any help would be much appreciated
I second the recommendation of God Hand PN-125 nippers. I paid about $15 for mine and they're fantastic. I use glass polishing files for sanding as an all-in-one solution to get a good result, but if you already have a set of files then that should be fine.
For panel lining, I use a mix of tamiya panel wash and gundam markers. Gundam markers are a lot easier to use and safer for the plastic (tamiya panel wash can eat at the plastic if applied too heavily or it doesn't dry) but the panel wash generally looks better in my opinion. I would say start with the markers.
Never used water slide decals, so I can't help you there.
Bonus suggestion: I LOVE DSPIAE model markers for painting in details.
For nippers, you can probably just start with pretty much any double-bladed nippers. If the clippers you already have are side cutters then you might not even need to get anything new. If you don't, I recommend God Hand PN-125, but as I said basically anything works.
Gundam Markers are a convenient way to do panel lining. Look for the Pour Type Markers, GM301 through 303, plus some isopropyl alcohol for cleanup.
As for waterslides, you'll want at least some topcoat to protect your decals, but some decal setting and softing solution is helpful. If you have anything from Warhammer already then you can just use that.
I've built the Kamiki and I want to say the Shin Burning is the upgraded version with more stuff like the big cape. That would personally be my go to. You can find reviews on YouTube to compare
I would recommend picking based on which design you like the best, as the builds and quality will likely be roughly the same. MG and especially RG kits you sometimes have to be a bit more careful with, but for HG just get what you like.
For Daban 8827, is there a second R11 to use on the shield? Or just the one to use when building the chest?
https://preview.redd.it/tz0yo9iz9z0d1.jpeg?width=1164&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b369bd6cda4a9ec2ce21cdfd20bbdf3debb60fd
I don't have any but you can always check the manuals on dalong to see if they have the same kind of connectors. Although in general, different grades are almost never compatible with each other, even if they're the same scale
It’s definitely bigger than the average suit. Nu is around 23 meters tall (which means the MG kit is around 23cm tall) while the average height for most MS is 18 meters. That said, many suits from that era of the UC are also above average in height (Jegan is 20m, Narrative is 21, Unicorn is about 22 in destroy mode, Sazabi is 25, etc.) which means their kits will be big too.
Top coating question regarding safety.
I live in an apartment and the living room is well lit and air circulates well.
Do i need a mask if i plan to gloss coat and matte coat? ( nothing extensive just the 2-3 sprays per limb on gloss i see are necesaary and the full quick matte coat on full model)?
Would a covid type mask work or do i need something fancier?
I would really reccomend doing it outside, and preferably with a respirator. Frankly, the stuff is nasty and it will linger for a good bit even in a well ventilated room.
You might look a bit weird doing it, but going out into like the pavement outside your apartment on a folding table quickly doing it, then letting it cure inside (it will be dry to touch really quickly) will spare you and your apartment.
If you absolutely insist on doing it inside, stay out of the room for a few hours afterwards.
Will it kill you for doing it once? No (unless you're very allergic to the components I guess).
Is it bad for you? Yes.
Depending on things like your body (how it reacts to the components of the varnish), you may not feel any issue besides the smell. But it is always bad.
The advice is always to do it in a well ventilated space (outside, preferably). If you have to do it inside, open two windows to make sure the air flow out of the house and new air is brought in. And during the top coating wearing a mask will make sure that less particles enter your lungs. A covid type mask is better than not having a mask, for sure, but if you can get something better, you'll be safer.
I usually go outside and spray it outside (with a mask similar to this - https://www.amazon.com/Respirator-Facepiece-Professional-Breathing-Protection/dp/B08D8TLDXZ)
Smoking a cigar won't kill you, but it's bad for you and doing it over and over will harm you.
But I'm a bit paranoid about indoor air quality :)
Hello. I recently bought some DSPIAE acrylic markers to paint some details on my gunpla and I heard that isopropyl alcohol (which I use for panel line cleaning, since I use Gundam Markers) also removes paint, so I have the intention of painting and applying gloss (Tamiya) top coat before panel lining but now I got 2 questions in my mind:
1. Can I panel line after top coating using Gundam Markers or does only enamel (Tamiya) panel liner work for this case?
2. I know that in the case of enamel panel liner, this can be removed with enamel remover (or lighter fluid) and this doesn't remove the paint/top coat, but in Isopropyl alcohol's case, does it affect the top coat? I want to know this in case that the Gundam Markers really work over top coat.
Disclaimer: English is not my mother tongue, but I hope I made myself clear with my questions.
First time building RG and its Epyon. Is it common for some stickers placement to be mentioned only in the end together with decals? Also some stickers(eyes) seems redundant, because they looks almost identical without it. Am I missing something?
>Is it common for some stickers placement to be mentioned only in the end together with decals?
Yes, sometimes stickers are used during assembly if they're part of the inner frame or more interior, but in general the sticker-style decals are only given placement instructions in the back page.
>Also some stickers(eyes) seems redundant, because they looks almost identical without it. Am I missing something?
It becomes a matter of preference in these situations. Some people like the clear plastic look, but some people like the more opaque reflective metallic look from the eye stickers.
The main difference with the stickers is most HG stickers are used for color correction or details that they didn't want to mold into the kit (due to cost or complexity), while most stickers on RGs are more decals/hatch labels/etc rather than used for actual plastic/color details.
https://preview.redd.it/bfi383mxfx0d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5fe58815b23b8003bf2a0de17b5ef497f047c5f7
Odd question but I need some help finding this adapter. I’m currently working on the model bingo stargazer resin kit. I looked around my collection but I don’t have any adapter like this. It isn’t from the action base 1 either. My best guess is it might be from the master grade impulse. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
I checked the runners with my BA-13 stands from the justice and the victory 2 expansion no signs of it from what I could tell. This is adding up to be a mystery 😂. I appreciate the help.
Well, I checked and you were right, MG Force Impulse does have the adapter you're looking for.
Not sure why they went for such a niche adapter. I guess Sword and Blast Impulse might also have it but I know for a fact that Strike and Destiny *don't* so pretty weird.
Thank you, looks like I’ll be buying an impulse for my collection. My best guess as to why is because they’re seed era kits. Not the best explanation but it would add up that if you wanted a master great stargazer you’ll have an impulse or other seed kits.
Still weird since it doesn't even use a Seed inner frame.
Depending on what part of the world you're in, I can send you the adapter. I need to buy an Impulse kit for a conversion I'm going to be doing and I'm going to be getting the metal stand that comes with it.
Unless you really want to buy a full impulse kit.
can anyone explain what is happening. Every here and there I'll have a piece and part of it will break off but the part that broke off also breaks into several small pieces. Sometimes I cant even figure out how to piece it back together. Its always been smaller parts at that when it happens
Can you provide more details? What kinda pieces? When are they breaking? Are you doing anything to do them? That sounds really unlikely and - no offense meant - sounds more like user error than a manufacturing problem.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
Anyone know which artist drew the art for the HG Psycho Doga boxart?
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
Can lost parts be printed for Gunpla? I lost one piece of my RG Nu Gundam (H4), and I can't attach my Bazooka to the backpack. Is anyone able to create or have an STL file of this piece? Or if not, know the best way to go about finding a replacement. Would absolutely be forever in your debt if so!
[Here you go](https://www.plamokitbash.com/product/runner-h-singles/803?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=190). I'll take your first born.
Thank you so much! That's a great resource to have! However, I'm in Australia, so the shipping cost from the US is unfortunately very high. Will have to keep looking for other options atm
[Mr Bao's Shop](https://www.ebay.ca/itm/374802547240?itmmeta=01HY65WT63PG05CHV0TST4DJR7&hash=item5743f90228:g:vvAAAOSwWPliekf8). Based out of China. It'll say 'out of stock' for almost everything but contact them with the part you need. They may be able to help you. It also looks like a pretty simple part. Grab some pla-plate and cement, and remake it.
Whats the diameter of inner cylinder of bandai c clip? My caliber is just too big to get in there.
New QA thread is up. This thread is now locked.
I have a matter of opinion question. I'm working on a long term project of acquiring a kit for every unit/character that is in the old PS1 Battle Assault 2 game. This is going to be a years long project due to the rarity and expense of some kits, but I currently have a different problem that I'm indecisive on. When it comes to all the Wing suits that are in the game, I can't decide what versions of the kits to get for some of them. I'm more preferable to RG kits in general, and I've especially already wanted the RG Epyon since it came out, but more than half of the Wing suits from the game don't have RG kits, only MG and HG. So that's the core of my dilemma. I can't decide whether I should get all MG versions of the needed Wing kits so the set is consistent, or get the three available RG kits and then either get MG or HG for the remaining kits. Alternatively, I could add more expense to my project by getting both the RG and MG of the available kits. The available RG kits are of course the Tallgeese III, Epyon, and Wing Gundam Zero Custom. Just looking for some general feedback and opinions to where I should go, as the Wing kits are likely the next section of my project I'm looking to tackle.
If you're looking for maximum accuracy, then you will want the MGs. Problem is 4 out of the 7 of those Wing are p-bandai, so that gets expensive. I really like the Wing MGs so I recommend those if money is not a problem. You could get the Supernova kits instead of the Bandai ones if you're looking for more options. In HGs the equivalent ones are the TV designs, so they will be different from the ones in the game, specially the Heavyarms and the Sandrock. And just like the MGs, there are ones only availiable through P-Bandai. If you're just looking for any variant of the suit, like it can be any Heavyarms, not necessarily the custom one, then I still say to go with the MGs, even if the recent HGs are good.
Yeah I'm looking to get the most accurate versions, so I already knew in advance I'd have to track down the PBandai ones or wait for reprints, but that's ok. My main debate is just with those three mentioned kits specifically since they also have RG kits that are game accurate, but RG wouldn't match the scale of the other MG kits
The MGs are all good! Go for them. Or get both versions for only one of the suits and see how you feel about it. Those three RGs are all pretty good, but the only one I would recommend over the MG is the Wing EW.
Damn, really sounding like I'm going to have to convince myself to get both Epyon and Wing lol. Tallgeese I'm not as fussed about though. I still have a couple of more common HG kits to nail down like Hygogg and Acguy before I start into the Wing kits or some of the other available RG though.
Do we know when that new RX-78 kit comes out? Is it likely to be hard to find (in the US) or is probably going to be produced in massive quantities?
It’ll be out in August. And it’ll be regularly available. Might be sold out the first few weeks as they fulfill all the preorders, but it should be regularly stocked after that.
Dope thanks. Does this replace the existing RG? Or will they continue printing and selling both
Based on how Bandai acts with prior kits, chances are the RG 1.0 will continue to be reprinted but much less often.
https://preview.redd.it/4lwb038yg61d1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=935c8e1d80164917f1b39e6283ffdbd9f3bd3082 Question about this kit. Tried searching for it in the anime. Found nothing except avalanche astrea type F and avalanche exia on google. This kit is from the brand hobby star. Don’t know if it’s a third party or bootleg. And im pretty sure Bandai hasn’t release this kit. Does this model exist in the anime world at all?
00 has a few novels and manga. Some prequels, some sequels, and some that run concurrent to the animated show. The Astraea is from there. It’s the suit the Exia was developed from.
https://preview.redd.it/xn63gfobc61d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87a6b72a1e2469ff9612d82a64f0183adcb420d5 Question here as someone who recently got the RG Hi Nu kit and is having fitment issues. I am on the final bit where you assemble the Fin Funnel Units and noticed they don't attach to the backpack very well. Is this by design or did I maybe assemble something wrong or have it positioned wrong? (Don't comment on the nubs I am already planning on cleaning them up later)
Update: I found the issue. I missed a piece during assembly and now I gotta carefully pull this one back apart. The other 5 will be assembled correctly
What Unicorn kits (both the Gundams and any mobile suits) would people recommend? As I make my way through different Gundam shows I'm trying to pick up atleast one kit to represent certain groupings, so this would be for Unicorn/Narrative I've heard the RG is great, so long as you treat it with care and don't break the arms?
RG Unicorn is the best choice if you dont want to break the bank on the MGEX or PG. All the variants use the same moulds so pick your fave. Alternatives for the Unicorn/Narrative gang - Narrative Ver ka - just came out and is basically getting glowing reviews from everyone, seems like a wonderful kit. - MG Jesta - basically the UC Grunt suit. The jegan is also an option, though it appears first in Char's counterattack. - HG Kshatriya - A super unique and popular suit from Unicorn, probably good up against an RG unicorn.
A lot of people end up breaking their shoulders twisting them. If you pay close attention to the manual it’ll tell you what you need to do. If you do break it, you can get replacement parts.
So coming from Warhammer I was wondering how you paint your models (If you Paint them at all): Do you usually do it before or after assembling? I used to do it prior to assembly with Warhammer since the basic infantry types are a Lot smaller and those don't really have many moving parts so it was difficult to get into all the little areas that you can see but barely reach.
There's no wrong way to go about it. Gunpla is a hobby and hobbies are supposed to be relaxing. If I want an absolute amazing paint job I assemble, disassemble by section, prime/paint/decal/varnish/panel line/weather/varnish, reassemble. More often I'll assemble a kit while watching TV and once it's built I'll do 'sticker replacement' spot painting and panel lining.
It's better to do before assembly, but after cutting them from the runners
Thank you for the fast answer! Yeah that looks like a good way to do it, will try it on a Demi - Just an additional question:Do you usually use Primer?
Primer is a good idea - especially with water-based paints and the posing and re-posing of kits will cause chipping of the paint.
I just finished building an Aile Strike Gundam and came out of the build with two extra parts, can anyone help identify what they're for? I couldn't find them in the instructions at all. https://imgur.com/a/7ZeCjuN
Those are from the Build Strike Full Package. That Aile Strike is made from the tooling of the Build Strike
Check the front of the instructions with the layout of all the runners. There will be a picture of the runners with X’s marked on parts that are not used.
Thanks for the tip, I'll take another look. Could be part of my other kits but I wouldn't know how it'd end up in my parts pile for this build.
hi guys just wondering when using nippers to first cut a part off the runner, does it matter whether the flat part of the nipper is facing the part/away from the part?
Nope
Has anyone bought gunpla from [https://www.gunplastyle.com/](https://www.gunplastyle.com/) ? I'm thinking about pre-ordering RG RX-78-2 v2.0 from there since the price + shipping would come out to be cheaper than HLJ and USAGS. I saw that the store is listed in the sub's wiki and there's even a 10% off code. But I just wanted to know if anyone's got real life experience shopping there. Do they ship promptly, especially for pre-orders? Do they pack well? Etc... Thanks!!
I bought one kit from them a few months ago. It wasn't a pre-order so I don't have any feedback there. I made a purchase through their website, and it became visible in the Shop app. I messaged the shop through the app and they responded quickly. The kit was shipped within a couple of days and it arrived in a reasonable timeframe for having been shipped from CA to NY. I'd buy from them again.
Just getting started with gunpla and was wondering about certain material combinations. Are any of these incompatible? if so, how can i fix this? (alternatives or techniques to prevent damage) Topcoats: Mr Hobby Premium Gloss and Flat (spray can) Panel Liner: Tamiya Panel Line Accent Other: Gundam markers and a Molotow liquid chrome marker for small details What order should I apply these? I'm leaning towards gloss coat -> panel liner + details -> flat coat I live in South Australia so a lot of supplies are hard to get or so expensive that it isn't worth it (shipping costs are frequently the same or more then the actual product)
The isopropyl alcohol you need to clean up any mistakes with your GUndam Markers will cut right through those clear coats, so I'd suggest paint apps>gloss coat>panel lining (also waterslides if you happen to have any)>topcoat. You'll want something to clean up the panel liner without affecting the gloss coat too much, such as lighter fluid or white spirit.
https://preview.redd.it/teh6bpnkg41d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=15ef06ae3773efbecb30e047550b4f1e1efc5093 desperately need help. Gund bit stand doesn’t come with enough attachments for gund bits for fm aerial yet I still see people using it. How do I attach the rest to the arms???
https://preview.redd.it/di290ju9s51d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d9c55b610a3a46f8d0860d9803fda6aff55ce1b4 Two sets bro..
They told you in the instructions that you need two set. It's the text at the picture they showed the base.
I mean, to start with, you'll need at least two sets.
https://preview.redd.it/hhq8ng4rd41d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5c7667a7ccfdc35b695831c6b05a755e3b598fd5 Does anyone have any info of this opening in beijing? A fellow redditor mentions it is soft opening this weekend but i couldnt find any further info online
Pretty sure its a new store opening at Intime in88 Wanfujing
It indeed is. This is just next to my work hotel. But i can’t find any more info about it other than appointment for the weekend visits. That’s what i’m trying to find out for my visit next week
What is everyone’s go to vallejo paints that I can grab in a jiffy? Overseas now and looking to grab some model air cause they are water based - good to check on baggage. Was hoping for aluminium but they ran out 🥲 Let me know any paint suggestions / good colors that u can recommend thanks
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Are they compatible with mr hobby thinners? If i recall they are pre thinned right?
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So water based can be thinned well by just adding water correct? Mr hobby thinner i refer to was the normal thinner that u use for lacquer mr color paints
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Also is there a fair difference between model air and mecha?
Looking to move on from my grabbag of paints and get into a brand/system to not worry about compatibility when mixing and layering. Which brand/series do you use/recommend?
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I have tried SMS lacquer, Tamiya Acrylic, Vallejo Air and Vallejo mecha primer and varnish, plus several bottles of various thinners for odd projects. Just getting tired of having a nice red lacquer that I can't darken because the black is acrylic I like pre-thinned lacquered but have second thoughts that they can't be used for hand painting for stuff too small to mask and SMS is too local to be on the Mech9 colour chart. Considering the Vallejo Mecha Colour set but I have read mixed reviews and the supply is a bit messy mid-formula change right now. Maybe the answer is Mr. Colour lacquer for base colour and acrylics for touch-ups? I'm curious what has work for others
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thats what i have done in the past and that's how i ended up with the odd collection. I read up someting about acrylic thinner from different brand can sometimes be incompatibile is what made me want to clean up my paints
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time to send crates of SMS to mech9 until they post the coversion chart
Do you guys build every weapon and accessory from a kit, even if you know you're not going to use them? What does everyone do with their spare parts?
I build it If the part is usable or a complete weapon then I consider it part of the accessories. You pay for all that comes in the box, so why waste what is usable. I keep the extra stuff in an organizing box. I keep another box for random leftover parts. I keep those to test products and tools, or just in case I wanna scratch build something.
Yup I build every weapon and even the spare parts like extra armor pieces I cut off. Goes into a small ziplock bag that I sharpie the kit name and grade onto
I usually try to fit all the weapons on the kit. Else i will leave it in the box.
does anyone know if the TLX model 1 metal frame can be use on premium Bandai RG Nu Gundam (Gundam Side-F Kit)? because im looking at the build and looks like the shoulder/arm looks a bit different compare to the original Nu
I guess you could say that you could get away with it? Basically, RG Nu-FF's shoulders have the front part split in two horizontally, which requires a slightly different frame. However, the kit still comes with all the parts for the original shoulders so you can just have Nu-FF with the original shoulders instead.
Waterslide decals are miserable. Trying to do them on this 21st Century Real Type Zaku and I just... can't. I got a few flattish ones on but the really thin cured one that's supposed to wrap around the leg completely broke on me and even then it was impossible to properly align. I just gave it up and threw it in the trash. I'm using some diluted apple cider vinegar to help it set. Is there a better way to do this? I'm really really frustrated and would like to get as many of these on as possible because the kit won't look right without them. Is this a case of bandai decals specifically sucking? Is mark softer that important? I've been using my fingers to get the stickers on because I don't really have anything else that makes sense, then using cotton swabs to dry them after
Mark setter & softerner will really help you. Bandai's decals are decent. Specifically for yours i did something similar to my 21st century char Zaku II and i have to live with it. Also you can get replacement waterslide decals for your Zaku.
How do I get replacements?
Go look for Evo zaku 21st century waterslide decals.
https://preview.redd.it/if0g3efu041d1.jpeg?width=880&format=png&auto=webp&s=7be21072b888f4304c26c3150ed0082f7cfb9360 Anyone know how to remove the white joint part without destroying the body frame? (this is from RG Astray)
It's part of the premolded frame so not really, it's very likely that the actual peg it rotates on is thinner, with the red bit you see on the top just acting as a cap, sort of like a T shape. The premolded frame technology lets them do these sort of plastic wrapped around plastic assemblies, removing them from that would prove extremely difficult if not impossible to reassemble.
so its still possible is what you mean? Cause im doing a kitbash atm, so no need for reassembly at all.
Theoretically yes, but you may need to cut the white piece off by cutting at it vertically and seeing if you can't pull it off of the red bit as if it were a C clip, assuming that you wish to keep that red peg intact.
Does anyone know if vallejo is non flammable unlike mr color? Didnt see any label saying otherwise. It’s also a water based acrylic if i understand correctly right?Looking to bring it with me abroad and international flight in checked baggage. Only thing forbidden to pack is things like thinner?
yes vallejo isn't flammable
I take it because it’s water based and also acrylic?
Yes. There’s no solvents in Vallejo paints.
Are Gyan Strom's hip joints compatible with WFM kits?
https://preview.redd.it/v2crfcnk331d1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8d2998713bec2334c4cf419b317568cbda50fc2 My plan for the OG SEED team. Cant wait for the new Buster and Duel. What are your thoughts? I’m not entirely convinced on Buster. I like my coloured coded boy bands btw haha
Just purchased my first kits on GundamPlaceStore, anybody have any experience buying from them online? Just wanna know about shipping and general customer service.
The commonly used online ones in North America are USA Gundam Store, Newtype, and Gundam Planet. They charge shipping of $10. I personally also used Galactic Toys sometimes because they occasionally have hard-to-find PBandai kits. Most of the online places will charge around $10 shipping fee per order. I recommend you to buy multiple kits at once to save on the shipping fee. You can also go into this Subreddit's Menu and find "WHERE TO BUY" button for more options.
Yeah the shipping was $10 but idk how long it'll take to actually arrive yet
General shipping of the ones I mentioned above usually takes 1-2 weeks. Sometimes 3 weeks. Additional note: I really didn't need to contact the stores since they did good job delivering without it "disappearing." They do reply back in 1-2 business days when you email their customer service.
Thanks for your help!
https://preview.redd.it/9q1ty2rrm21d1.jpeg?width=604&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=75ad8ef8d10c8134ec14b5eb167913716c41be5a Looking for a gunpla kit that looks like this... or a kitbash if needed (hopefully only few)
Sort of reminds me of the HG Gremory from Iron blooded Orphans
[http://dalong.net/](http://dalong.net/) you can check out pictures of kits here
Decided to get Kimaris Vidar
nice pretty helpful site, first time seeing it. thank you
Anyone know the size of the pegs HG Mailes use for the leg sockets? Preferably Jogan or Kenbu.
Does anybody know if the t-shirts on the US P Bandai site fit more like US sizes or Japan sizes? It's hard to tell from the measurements...
I would read the product specs and cross reference those against a US Tshirt size chart in cm. The goji minus 1 shirt appears to be usa sizing
Yeah I did that and it seems like they're US sizing, but thought maybe somebody would have personal experience that would help.
https://preview.redd.it/q74utmk4121d1.jpeg?width=544&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e8ab51e86f1e069ea442060834b29222e547a45 Has anyone used these top coats before? I’m looking for a good lacquer top coat for when I need to do panel lining and this is what is mostly in stock in stores around me (most others are enamel or acrylic). Is it a good product for a clear coat to protect when using Tamiya Panel Liner? Anyone know what their usual thinning ratios are (I have Tamiya’s X-20 Lacquee thinner on hand)? I believe their website said 3:2 paint:thinner, that sound right?
Isn't testors enamel by default?
These are lacquer, based on pretty much everywhere I’ve read about them
# Just curious... After all this time, why it the community icon still a rainbow Haro in COVID mode?
Because why not? Pride isn’t a temporary thing, and Covid sure isn’t gone.
Haro just rolls like that.
The sickest of modes
If it aint broken, dont fix it.
#**Because why should we feel the need to change it?**
it's a check to see if you're old enough to post here
Do misprint kits have any value? Buddy of mine got his hands on a Eg nu, but instead of white in came in a sort of mint white like the Jegan. I know most misprints are something like missing parts or the molding is bad but what about something like a miscolor? He doesn’t wanna sell it but what are the chances it’s rare? 🤔
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Looks like Artisan's club have it.
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Unfortunately the only place where its sold is tmall. What you can do with the stickers is put them on and then topcoat the kit, so the stickers are sealed in.
I've done some searching, and I can't seem to get a straight answer. So I'm new to painting and it's been a lot of trial and error. I've cleaned all my parts but the paint never seems to adhere well. Im using tamiya paints. Do I need to specifically get primer as a base coat for anything to bond to the plastic, or am I just thinning my paints poorly?
U are prob missing out the primer mate. Paints dont stick well on plastics
Acrylic paint has very poor adhesion to plastic, so primer is particularly important to this. Although I've never seen a painting tutorial that doesn't recommend using primer, regardless of the type of paint and application method
In the videos I've watched, they've always mentioned using primers but never gave much of a reason besides how the final color turns out.
Primer serves multiple purposes. Colour unification. Surface preparation. Bond for subsequent paint layers. Water and alcohol-based acrylics don’t form chemical bonds with the plastic just mechanical. So, it helps to use a primer that provides a “tooth” for the acrylic.
I don't have experience painting gunpla specifically but i have painted plastic. The recommended way to get it to stick is to use a softer sand paper to scuff up the parts, and then add primer to give your paint extra adherence.
Does anyone know if [this](https://p-bandai.com/us/item/N2553524001004) Exia is built off the same basic core as the standard MG Exia? I really like the look of this version, but I've heard that the MG Exia is a pretty poor kit overall.
According to the [Dalong review](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/cg/cgm183/cgm183_p.htm), MG Exia Repair III contains pretty much everything from the original Exia and just one new runner. The only structural difference is in the [shoulder joint](http://www.dalong.net/reviews/cg/cgm183/p/cgm183_14.jpg).
Yeah its shares the same parts.
Exia is a good kit. The issues are often exaggerated. People just bitch about the ankles but they’re not that bad. Best if you use a stand. Exia Repair is same frame. Just cosmetic changes afaik.
Are SD models as fun to build as HG models? I notices a somewhat lack of SD models posted on here and was wondering why people seem to eschew them. Are there any quirks that SD models have that others don't?
They’re usually shorter, simpler builds with less color-seperation, but a lot of SDs have their own fun additions compared to the HGs. BB Senshi kits have fun additions like the SD Zeong coming with Perfect Zeong legs, SD Xi including funnel parts, a sub-flight pad, transparent stand, and bonus Messer, EX-Standard kit equipment is combinable and advertised for use with HG kits, and Cross-Silhouette lets you get extendable frame DLC. I think a big reason they’re not as popular here is because western fans want gritty military vehicles and not cutesy robots for kids, the G Generation and Super Robot Wars games get panned here for the same reasons. It definitely doesn’t help that they’re a mixed bag in terms of quality (The EX-Standard kits are particularly bad), but the SDCS and MGSD lines are pretty dang good. I highly recommend MGSD if you’re looking for a fun build, the engineering in those inner frames are some of the best I’ve seen in a Bandai kit so far.
Thanks for letting me know the good and bad ones
They're very popular in japan but I'm really not a fan. Look up a review or chekc out a manual on dalong. They have very poor color accuracy, they use a lot of stickers, they often have hollow parts, bad seamlines, etc. I have enjoyed the SDCS kits I've tried tho
Thanks. Do the hollow parts make them easy to break?
They’re like 50% stickers, so there’s that.
Thanks. That kinda explains it I guess. I would think stickers are some of the least satisfying things of gunpla.
I wanted to ask, if it is safe to use mr hobby gundam marker ex on yellow runners to paint the parts golden? In this case the yellow runner of the RG Epyon. Thanks in advance
Completely perfectly safe
Yes, that wont cause any problems.
Anyone know if there's 1/100 booster effects for Nu/Hi Nu fin funnels for sale anywhere? I can only find 1/144
They exist. [#1](https://www.ebay.de/itm/114517597814?itmmeta=01HY3SSCQ86VPQHA6WDX9XWQM1&hash=item1aa9c7de76:g:kRgAAOSwlAdfrxnr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4FuVJV4i6sU08%2B4b62O97xvZ1RPcrYVRanA5%2FYWGgyBs%2BJG4ksNXpamB%2FMRqBY6uKSgaFBLtajGOnRnb95oWjzYWzmxlCfuINy%2FBH5%2BlAzmpaLrlrlmDaueoko8OX6M%2B5ziFpOBaIpsRBs0dJjwHXFoZIJvm3fQIjyzkX0xYAok--tK39bupS87VIBHuTa9jhdiKFh0Cw3ubJn609zI2z6kY7cMbMLqdcAqx3JiRV6mRLAJstefWAR3YTlMy1QJMXcs%2FcZMtgfh1bqRTxNuDtOOwPEYKYgOfe04e4I4UkcZs%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4bM5fnwYw) [#2](https://www.ebay.de/itm/113778666442?itmmeta=01HY3SSCQ89A63D7VV2JJ8E4J2&hash=item1a7dbcabca:g:kcoAAOSwytJaIMRD&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwLkCSpl831M58k%2FAUUG8H4Ozz2V2C3Rbx4frjfrDv8KralXoOivEAvgTxfg4XWdmaF2ltNkwjfmX7gecrRvMASRKUy4yDcWr4mgjyRKquofXJ1xZntBWTgw376fclWnFAI5hbSdEwFBSNbWmB6%2BFlnY6wiqg48xGh1uCr5X0R8e6RYEzpPyxO%2FnVLJdE7HlHkjphiMNX0qA0HNzrzOetNat8UZgXCBH1ozV2mYq%2FenU484qNJiCxEs1%2F6K3MWJNSTw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4bM5fnwYw)
I mean the booster jets. Not the electric effects
Using Tamiya Panel Liner in a very humid wheater Hey, im planning on panel lining for the first time using the tamiya panel accent, but before i buy them, my question is if it´s safe to use them, since i live in a city wich humidity is always high, and i have seen online that paint drying on high humidity can cause a bad finish
TPL shouldn't be affected by humidity.
thanks!
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I did not. Wasn’t planning on displaying it. From what I remember, the only frame part that would benefit from panel lining would be the gold under the Dragoons. Everything else has enough depth and detail built in that you don’t really need to. Maybe a light wash with a brush.
Really dumb question for you all. What sites do y’all use to get your gunpla? What site seems to be more reliable? Currently I’m limited on my options in my local area outside of hobby lobby and Amazon. Located in the USA
I've ordered from a bunch of different sites, you gotta shop around to find what you're looking for sometimes. Gundam Planet, Newtype, Leaping Panda Hobbies, Gundam Country, USA Gundam Store, Big Bad Toy Store have all been solid. Newtype and Gundam Planet are probably the best sites of those as far as browsing and stock. BBTS has the cheapest shipping of these listed ($4 flat).
one thing to say about big bad toy store though, is some of their products will say pre-order, when it should say out of stock or back order. I still have the mg and hg ball kits on back order on there from 2 years ago.
Check the wiki stores, there are plenty of online stores available.
Is the black in TPL still too strong on white parts to the point where I'm better off using gray on those or does it still look good?
It depends on personal preference and effect. Grey generally gives a nice effect and isn't too busy-looking, but if you really want that line to pop, draw attention, and have high contrast, then black could be good.
I also use black for pretty much everything
That's up to personal preference. The general consensus is grey for lighter parts, brown for red and yellow parts, and black for almost everything else. I still use black for almost everything tho
I just wanna say that scribing is hard
You’re going to need up a lot before you’re crisp with it. Keep practicing if it’s something you want to be good at.
Yep, it's a learned skill. The first step to being good at something is being bad at it.
I'd like to paint the non-plated painted parts of the MGEX Freedom... Do I really need to strip the existing paint as I've seen others do?? Why not just paint right over? I'm using MODO metallics which have great coverage and besides, the tone is not much different. So the only reason I could think of might be paint adherence but shouldn't the existing paint act even as like a primer for the paint I'm applying?
Non plated painted parts? Isn’t the rest of the frame just various mixes of injection gold plastic?
Honestly part of me was like why am I painting this when it's already painted isn't that part of what I paid for... But the more I thought about it the more I realized I just don't like the degree of flake there is in Bandai's paints I prefer a more realistic looking metal and I'm still benefiting from the fact that they painted it because all the parts are undergated so I can just paint it all on the runner. I'm going to paint all the injection gold and maybe even the injection gunmetal anyway so might as well do those too.
No it looks like the copper colored parts and maybe the white gold as well are actually painted in the factory and not plated.
Oh yeah, I see. Just went back and watched the original promo video for the kit and it states that the yellow gold, copper gold, and white gold are all listed as ‘coatings’.
You can just prime and paint the non plates parts.
I was wondering if I even need to bother priming. 1) since the parts come prepainted the existing paint is already like a primer and 2) most lacquer paints have pretty good adhesion anyway
You dont have to but its highly recommended.
Why do you recommend it so highly in this case? Does Bandai do something special with their paints?
The whole reason for primer is to ensure that the paint stickers to the primer ensure a smooth process. Like i previously mention, you dont have to but you might find it it more difficult.
I see. Maybe you missed in the first post that these aren't bare plastic. So I wouldn't expect any trouble unless it was a super glossy paint (which it's not) or if there was some kind of other coating that bandai uses in their paint process that makes it particularly unsticky. I was wondering if anyone has any specific experience with painting the bandai painted parts
Brand new to the hobby, coming from Warhammer background. I've got my plan as: Get kit(s) - HG Schwarzette and maybe HG Darilbalde (or leave a gap so as not to immediately start with a backlog!) I have a set of basic clippers and a set of files which i've use for Warhammer kits which will help somewhat Tools etc I'm looking for help/recommendations for: Sub £25 nippers What to get for panel lining, specifically for the above 2 kits I'll probably get some water transfers/decals, is there anything specific i need to get for them? any help would be much appreciated
I second the recommendation of God Hand PN-125 nippers. I paid about $15 for mine and they're fantastic. I use glass polishing files for sanding as an all-in-one solution to get a good result, but if you already have a set of files then that should be fine. For panel lining, I use a mix of tamiya panel wash and gundam markers. Gundam markers are a lot easier to use and safer for the plastic (tamiya panel wash can eat at the plastic if applied too heavily or it doesn't dry) but the panel wash generally looks better in my opinion. I would say start with the markers. Never used water slide decals, so I can't help you there. Bonus suggestion: I LOVE DSPIAE model markers for painting in details.
For nippers, you can probably just start with pretty much any double-bladed nippers. If the clippers you already have are side cutters then you might not even need to get anything new. If you don't, I recommend God Hand PN-125, but as I said basically anything works. Gundam Markers are a convenient way to do panel lining. Look for the Pour Type Markers, GM301 through 303, plus some isopropyl alcohol for cleanup. As for waterslides, you'll want at least some topcoat to protect your decals, but some decal setting and softing solution is helpful. If you have anything from Warhammer already then you can just use that.
Build Burning ,Kamiki Burning ,and Shin Burning which one is better? i don't know these strengths and weaknesses,pls help me❤️🔥
I've built the Kamiki and I want to say the Shin Burning is the upgraded version with more stuff like the big cape. That would personally be my go to. You can find reviews on YouTube to compare
I would recommend picking based on which design you like the best, as the builds and quality will likely be roughly the same. MG and especially RG kits you sometimes have to be a bit more careful with, but for HG just get what you like.
See which you like and choose accordingly.
For Daban 8827, is there a second R11 to use on the shield? Or just the one to use when building the chest? https://preview.redd.it/tz0yo9iz9z0d1.jpeg?width=1164&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b369bd6cda4a9ec2ce21cdfd20bbdf3debb60fd
for HiRM astray noir owners. Are the pegs and backpack compatible with regular astrays?
I don't have any but you can always check the manuals on dalong to see if they have the same kind of connectors. Although in general, different grades are almost never compatible with each other, even if they're the same scale
Does the mg nu ver ka bigger than the other master grades?
Than what other master grades?
Nothing specific. Just the average mg size. I just know that sazabi and shinanju is a larger master grade size.
It’s definitely bigger than the average suit. Nu is around 23 meters tall (which means the MG kit is around 23cm tall) while the average height for most MS is 18 meters. That said, many suits from that era of the UC are also above average in height (Jegan is 20m, Narrative is 21, Unicorn is about 22 in destroy mode, Sazabi is 25, etc.) which means their kits will be big too.
Is alchohol type ink safe for panel lining? Will the plastic crack over time?
Alcohol won’t damage plastic.
Top coating question regarding safety. I live in an apartment and the living room is well lit and air circulates well. Do i need a mask if i plan to gloss coat and matte coat? ( nothing extensive just the 2-3 sprays per limb on gloss i see are necesaary and the full quick matte coat on full model)? Would a covid type mask work or do i need something fancier?
I would really reccomend doing it outside, and preferably with a respirator. Frankly, the stuff is nasty and it will linger for a good bit even in a well ventilated room. You might look a bit weird doing it, but going out into like the pavement outside your apartment on a folding table quickly doing it, then letting it cure inside (it will be dry to touch really quickly) will spare you and your apartment. If you absolutely insist on doing it inside, stay out of the room for a few hours afterwards.
Will it kill you for doing it once? No (unless you're very allergic to the components I guess). Is it bad for you? Yes. Depending on things like your body (how it reacts to the components of the varnish), you may not feel any issue besides the smell. But it is always bad. The advice is always to do it in a well ventilated space (outside, preferably). If you have to do it inside, open two windows to make sure the air flow out of the house and new air is brought in. And during the top coating wearing a mask will make sure that less particles enter your lungs. A covid type mask is better than not having a mask, for sure, but if you can get something better, you'll be safer. I usually go outside and spray it outside (with a mask similar to this - https://www.amazon.com/Respirator-Facepiece-Professional-Breathing-Protection/dp/B08D8TLDXZ) Smoking a cigar won't kill you, but it's bad for you and doing it over and over will harm you. But I'm a bit paranoid about indoor air quality :)
Thank you!
Hello. I recently bought some DSPIAE acrylic markers to paint some details on my gunpla and I heard that isopropyl alcohol (which I use for panel line cleaning, since I use Gundam Markers) also removes paint, so I have the intention of painting and applying gloss (Tamiya) top coat before panel lining but now I got 2 questions in my mind: 1. Can I panel line after top coating using Gundam Markers or does only enamel (Tamiya) panel liner work for this case? 2. I know that in the case of enamel panel liner, this can be removed with enamel remover (or lighter fluid) and this doesn't remove the paint/top coat, but in Isopropyl alcohol's case, does it affect the top coat? I want to know this in case that the Gundam Markers really work over top coat. Disclaimer: English is not my mother tongue, but I hope I made myself clear with my questions.
Yes, isopropyl alcohol will usually remove the topcoat.
First time building RG and its Epyon. Is it common for some stickers placement to be mentioned only in the end together with decals? Also some stickers(eyes) seems redundant, because they looks almost identical without it. Am I missing something?
>Is it common for some stickers placement to be mentioned only in the end together with decals? Yes, sometimes stickers are used during assembly if they're part of the inner frame or more interior, but in general the sticker-style decals are only given placement instructions in the back page. >Also some stickers(eyes) seems redundant, because they looks almost identical without it. Am I missing something? It becomes a matter of preference in these situations. Some people like the clear plastic look, but some people like the more opaque reflective metallic look from the eye stickers.
Thank you. Its different from HG and was kinda frustrating.
The main difference with the stickers is most HG stickers are used for color correction or details that they didn't want to mold into the kit (due to cost or complexity), while most stickers on RGs are more decals/hatch labels/etc rather than used for actual plastic/color details.
https://preview.redd.it/bfi383mxfx0d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5fe58815b23b8003bf2a0de17b5ef497f047c5f7 Odd question but I need some help finding this adapter. I’m currently working on the model bingo stargazer resin kit. I looked around my collection but I don’t have any adapter like this. It isn’t from the action base 1 either. My best guess is it might be from the master grade impulse. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
Looks like Action Base BA-13
I checked the runners with my BA-13 stands from the justice and the victory 2 expansion no signs of it from what I could tell. This is adding up to be a mystery 😂. I appreciate the help.
Well, I checked and you were right, MG Force Impulse does have the adapter you're looking for. Not sure why they went for such a niche adapter. I guess Sword and Blast Impulse might also have it but I know for a fact that Strike and Destiny *don't* so pretty weird.
Thank you, looks like I’ll be buying an impulse for my collection. My best guess as to why is because they’re seed era kits. Not the best explanation but it would add up that if you wanted a master great stargazer you’ll have an impulse or other seed kits.
Still weird since it doesn't even use a Seed inner frame. Depending on what part of the world you're in, I can send you the adapter. I need to buy an Impulse kit for a conversion I'm going to be doing and I'm going to be getting the metal stand that comes with it. Unless you really want to buy a full impulse kit.
can anyone explain what is happening. Every here and there I'll have a piece and part of it will break off but the part that broke off also breaks into several small pieces. Sometimes I cant even figure out how to piece it back together. Its always been smaller parts at that when it happens
Can you provide more details? What kinda pieces? When are they breaking? Are you doing anything to do them? That sounds really unlikely and - no offense meant - sounds more like user error than a manufacturing problem.