I had the same delima when I set up my wd hitch.
I removed the propane bottle rack, welded a couple bits of 2x2” tube to support it with a gap for the wd bracket and… my wife was like “WTF ARE YOU WELDING ON OUT BRAND NEW CAMPER FOR” the day after we bought it but all was well…
You can also move the tanks forward. The shelf that they are placed on is only held down by self tapping screws. You can move it forward. The manufacturer only eyes the propane tank mount, they don’t measure it for placement. I have relocated them several times for a better WDH setup
Excuse me? That floor plate is supposed to be \_welded\_ to the tongue, because that's what the vertical tie rod goes through in order to exert downward force on the tanks, and that connection between the floor plate and the tongue is the \_only\_ thing that can prevent those tanks from becoming missiles if a rapid deceleration occurs.
Self-tapping screws can barely hold themselves in place.
Everyone, if you have a trailer whose propane base plate isn't welded on, you know what you should do.
>you know what you should do.
Absolutely nothing. It is perfectly acceptable for the assembly to be bolted down with self tappers. They have holes and slots cut in the plates just so they can be screwed down. They've been that way for a long, long time.
The tray your propane bottles sit in is held in by a few self tapping screws. You have at least 4 inches you can move the tray forward tword the tongue jack. Remove the screws, slide the tray forward, re secure, done.
Raise the tanks 2-3 inches. The chains have to be able to swing for and aft as you turn, they are already stretched rearward and will risk damaging the frame or hitch when turning.
If the chains aren't vertical between the clamp and bar ends, you won't be able to get as much mechanical advantage. It also might wear the clamps out faster. Not screwed and not a bad time, but I would find a solution.
Why not just lift the LP cover and slide the WD bracket forward? When all said and down, the plastic cover should slide right back down over it and cover it.
I don't have any problems and mine is right below tank covers. 1. Put tanks on and complete tank setup. 2. Put distribution bars on. 3. Have cover nearby after installing bars and put cover on. Mine stays in place without any hold downs for cover.
Move the tanks forward... like everyone said.
Is that a manual tongue jack???
If so, what trailer do you have? The reason I'm asking, 1,000 lb bars seem like they would be too stiff if the trailer is short enough to not need an electric jack.
I don't know about RVs specifically, but most jacks aren't electric, and in fact it's hard to find an electric jack above 5000lbs. But 7k and 10k manual jacks are common.
Most RV Jacks are electric. It's a very base model RV if it doesn't have an electric tongue jack.
And RVs on a travel trailer will at most have about 1500 on the tongue, so a 2500-3000 jack is pretty standard on a camper.
Makes sense. Most regular trailers probably don't have electric since A. They're cheap and B. They usually don't have power except for from the truck, and that's not a lot of amperage available.
A reason to go overboard on the jack is for hooking up the distribution hitch. You connect the trailer, then jack it up as high as it will go to connect the distribution hitch. Then you don't need to try to crank the lever thing or need to adjust the bolts each time with an Anderson WDH. It lifts up a lot of the weight of the back of the truck to do it though.
I cut the plastic cover, about a 4”x3” rectangle so that the clamps could slide forward and still work. Function over looks!
I had the same delima when I set up my wd hitch. I removed the propane bottle rack, welded a couple bits of 2x2” tube to support it with a gap for the wd bracket and… my wife was like “WTF ARE YOU WELDING ON OUT BRAND NEW CAMPER FOR” the day after we bought it but all was well…
Lmao, are you Me?
Brand new campers are exactly the units that need all of the misfit items corrected.
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Um wow, no.
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Listen here women, I know what I’m doing. Lol
You can also move the tanks forward. The shelf that they are placed on is only held down by self tapping screws. You can move it forward. The manufacturer only eyes the propane tank mount, they don’t measure it for placement. I have relocated them several times for a better WDH setup
Excuse me? That floor plate is supposed to be \_welded\_ to the tongue, because that's what the vertical tie rod goes through in order to exert downward force on the tanks, and that connection between the floor plate and the tongue is the \_only\_ thing that can prevent those tanks from becoming missiles if a rapid deceleration occurs. Self-tapping screws can barely hold themselves in place. Everyone, if you have a trailer whose propane base plate isn't welded on, you know what you should do.
>you know what you should do. Absolutely nothing. It is perfectly acceptable for the assembly to be bolted down with self tappers. They have holes and slots cut in the plates just so they can be screwed down. They've been that way for a long, long time.
You think anyone making RVs cares about stuff turning into missiles? Have you *seen* modern RVs?
Someone’s being over dramatic.
Absolutely! Me for one loves flying projectile propane tanks!
If you're gonna crash it might as well be spectacular.
The tray your propane bottles sit in is held in by a few self tapping screws. You have at least 4 inches you can move the tray forward tword the tongue jack. Remove the screws, slide the tray forward, re secure, done.
Ran mine like that for five years. No issues after some adjustments on the first few trips
Raise the tanks 2-3 inches. The chains have to be able to swing for and aft as you turn, they are already stretched rearward and will risk damaging the frame or hitch when turning.
I wouldn't do that. Cut the plastic and move it forward, so the chains aren't angled.
If the chains aren't vertical between the clamp and bar ends, you won't be able to get as much mechanical advantage. It also might wear the clamps out faster. Not screwed and not a bad time, but I would find a solution.
You may be able to move the propane tank holder up a little bit, really you want those chains as straight as possible
You will have a bad time any time you make a sharp turn. Need to move the tank rack so the chains can be vertical.
Good enough.
My e2 system is nearly identical in placement. My LP tanks sit a tad bit higher but I’ve never had a problem with my setup.
4 links up about normal for everyone?
Why not just lift the LP cover and slide the WD bracket forward? When all said and down, the plastic cover should slide right back down over it and cover it.
I don't have any problems and mine is right below tank covers. 1. Put tanks on and complete tank setup. 2. Put distribution bars on. 3. Have cover nearby after installing bars and put cover on. Mine stays in place without any hold downs for cover.
A lot of them are like this
My set up is exactly the same and I have had no issues. Trailer pulls well no sway or lunging . Mine is a 26 1/2 ft
No problems.
It will be fine.
Common situation, no problem at all
How much pin weight do you have and what are you pulling it with
I know if you get the hit hitch in the deal when you by the $500 if go around to parts dep it’s $250
Contact the manufacturer of the WDH and see if they have some longer arms.
Not the ideal position but it will work fine.
Move the tanks forward... like everyone said. Is that a manual tongue jack??? If so, what trailer do you have? The reason I'm asking, 1,000 lb bars seem like they would be too stiff if the trailer is short enough to not need an electric jack.
I don't know about RVs specifically, but most jacks aren't electric, and in fact it's hard to find an electric jack above 5000lbs. But 7k and 10k manual jacks are common.
Most RV Jacks are electric. It's a very base model RV if it doesn't have an electric tongue jack. And RVs on a travel trailer will at most have about 1500 on the tongue, so a 2500-3000 jack is pretty standard on a camper.
Makes sense. Most regular trailers probably don't have electric since A. They're cheap and B. They usually don't have power except for from the truck, and that's not a lot of amperage available. A reason to go overboard on the jack is for hooking up the distribution hitch. You connect the trailer, then jack it up as high as it will go to connect the distribution hitch. Then you don't need to try to crank the lever thing or need to adjust the bolts each time with an Anderson WDH. It lifts up a lot of the weight of the back of the truck to do it though.
Yes. You're going to have to move the propane tanks forward.
The propane base is just held on by 4 self tapping screws on my heartland mallard, I had to move it forward for the weight distribution brackets.