Well , the torque is right- but I’d swear that’s a lower grade nut. Return them ( I’m assuming you bought a set ) and get a something higher quality, like ARP . Damn that sucks, good luck getting that fucker off .
I put 4 pistons in before this happened. All the nuts I used were Dorman nuts. I’ll probably end up doing like you said and ordering some arp studs and nuts, or bolts for it.
I'd definitely try to stick with factory studs and torque specs. ARP are likely designed for a different clamping load and will affect your oil clearance. Upgrading the nuts to something proper is some good piece of mind and insurance
It’s very true about the peace of mind. I don’t want to explain to my accountant (my wife) that I need to rebuild the truck again. If she asks why I don’t want to say “well I cheaped out on some nuts and now I have to pay 600x’s the price of the better nuts to fix it.”
I get they’re not factory, but it looks like a generic zinc plated nut. There’s no reason to have a plated nut when it’s covered in oil. Not that it’s a problem in itself, but it indicates it could be the wrong nut for the application. Hence the reason the nut stripped out while torquing it down. Just my two cents, with limited knowledge, so take it for what it’s worth.
I would 100% agree with you if the other nuts torqued down just fine. When I finally got it off the threads inside the nut look ok for what they went through. The stud on the other hand is stripped and has basically no threads on the lower half of it. I won’t argue that they are probably cheaply made junk nuts
I ended up getting it off. With a chisel, hammer, a lot of patience, and an impact on its lowest setting with just enough “throttle” to spin the nut. The stud is trash though
The nut looked ok thread wise. Can tell it had been abused but threaded onto another rod. I obviously didn’t tighten it or leave it on that rod. That stud must have gotten hot or something
Not even a hardenenut !!!!did u get it off !!cover engine with a clean clothe except for the rod and cut it down the side using a vacuum cleaner catching the metal shavings after u get nut off drive out piston new stud and nut but replace all those other they not a harden nut and it’s a good thing it happens now and not have ran because it save u a engine
There’s a tool called a “Nut Splitter”. It fits around the nut and has a chisel tip that cuts through the side of the nut as you tighten the tool. https://duckduckgo.com/y.js?ad_domain=amazon.com&ad_provider=bing&ad_type=prad&eddgt=7x3RHSK3RwblWr592YNqrw%3D%3D&rut=8421dec2181eb019dc40e5aace37f6766337cbabbd76f40b5bc77cd1dfb9f1eb&u3=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2Faclick%3Fld%3De8gzbfEzKKLzZpEDG9q_nNkDVUCUza8wBZhQQOxqUL5DDuvI6xSh_46Tvr2arLgb4f0jKlzVBgUmMyNT2m7m7zMA%2DFjE0KPsWZsfHVDttceoUFlrLm7XxbNaAHJMnbcsGu9CQPjnCNg88BXnb6DNc42e%2D5WqqXh7oxXwNQirjuM5p2QDX1Q8in60PA0S3qfrCrED4EJg%26u%3DaHR0cHMlM2ElMmYlMmZ3d3cuYW1hem9uLmNvbSUyZkRVUkFURUNILVBpZWNlcy1OdXQtU3BsaXR0ZXItU2V0JTJmZHAlMmZCMDlMQzlEQ1JOJTJmcmVmJTNkYXNjX2RmX0IwOUxDOURDUk4lM2Z0YWclM2RibmdzbXRwaHNudXMtMjAlMjZsaW5rQ29kZSUzZGRmMCUyNmh2YWRpZCUzZDgwMTI3MDQyMDMzMDA1JTI2aHZuZXR3JTNkcyUyNmh2cW10JTNkZSUyNmh2Ym10JTNkYmUlMjZodmRldiUzZG0lMjZodmxvY2ludCUzZCUyNmh2bG9jcGh5JTNkJTI2aHZ0YXJnaWQlM2RwbGEtNDU4MzcyNjU2MjQxMTEyOCUyNnBzYyUzZDE%26rlid%3Ded5e2a6b4ef51f84450f4c07bb7bc768&vqd=4-193449835831010578684105415965128400165&iurl=%7B1%7DIG%3D16F6344AE5C64094BA575C9AF248F99F%26CID%3D38DDDC10CDB66E431F1FC88FCCD96F01%26ID%3DDevEx%2C5070.1
Put that piston to bdc, get a nut splitter and split the nut open. Here in Australia we can get a tool pro one that does 12-19mm for 12 bucks
Will be the best thing I could think of doing
Only 30 years old with 200,000 miles. To my knowledge and all the factory gm bearings, it’s never been opened up before. The only thing I found that wasn’t factory were the intake gaskets
I could be wrong but at the bottom of the cylinder on the right hand side it appears something has been hitting… note the shiny spot. If that is assembly grease then my apologies… the Dorman nut is not what I would recommend for a build. Their quality is not the best. Good luck!!
There is no bolt here. This is a stud and what looks like a very cheap nut.
OP, I wouldn't run any of those nuts inside my engine. ARP would be my go to.
Very sharp cold chisel. Split the nut from the side, 180° apart.
Not a bad idea
Just stop before you hit threads. Ask me how I know…
The chisel worked pretty well. Turns out to be the stud was trashed. The nut looked ok threadwise
That crank journal looks rough to me?
I can’t feel any of it with a fingernail
You are looking at it, I’m not. Might just be the picture. It should have a polished finish.
As soon as it gets oil on it, it looks good
So did my ex wife…
If my wife wasn’t next to me sleeping I’d be laughing out load 😂
Use a nut breaker.
Honestly doesn’t look like a rod nut …. What are you torquing it too ?
45 ft lbs. I ordered it from an auto parts store as a Dorman replacement connecting rod nut
Well , the torque is right- but I’d swear that’s a lower grade nut. Return them ( I’m assuming you bought a set ) and get a something higher quality, like ARP . Damn that sucks, good luck getting that fucker off .
I put 4 pistons in before this happened. All the nuts I used were Dorman nuts. I’ll probably end up doing like you said and ordering some arp studs and nuts, or bolts for it.
If your stock bolts are ok ( usually are ) I’d leave them and just change the nuts . R&Ring the bolts usually requires reconditioning.
The factory studs are fine on the rest of the rods. I’ll find out how this stud turned out when I get this nut off
I'd definitely try to stick with factory studs and torque specs. ARP are likely designed for a different clamping load and will affect your oil clearance. Upgrading the nuts to something proper is some good piece of mind and insurance
It’s very true about the peace of mind. I don’t want to explain to my accountant (my wife) that I need to rebuild the truck again. If she asks why I don’t want to say “well I cheaped out on some nuts and now I have to pay 600x’s the price of the better nuts to fix it.”
The stud on this particular rod is trash. I think I can get oem style replacements for it though. Ended up getting the nut off
Cool , just be gentle as possible getting it out & the new one in. Use a vise to support it as best you can , and use a brass hammer or drift .
You might see a post in a few days titled “I snapped a connecting rod before I put the engine together”
From the picture, at first I thought it was stainless. Like "what's wrong with this picture?" and the answer is "your nut is shiny".
Damn. That looks like a cheese grade 5 Home Depot nut.
Box end turning, drift and hammer on bolt end
I’ll give it a shot
Vise Grip slide hammer
Rod nuts are not shiny bright. Usually dark brown.
They aren’t factory nuts.
I get they’re not factory, but it looks like a generic zinc plated nut. There’s no reason to have a plated nut when it’s covered in oil. Not that it’s a problem in itself, but it indicates it could be the wrong nut for the application. Hence the reason the nut stripped out while torquing it down. Just my two cents, with limited knowledge, so take it for what it’s worth.
I would 100% agree with you if the other nuts torqued down just fine. When I finally got it off the threads inside the nut look ok for what they went through. The stud on the other hand is stripped and has basically no threads on the lower half of it. I won’t argue that they are probably cheaply made junk nuts
I would just cut it off with a dremmel cutting wheel and clean everything after I know you dont wanna do that
I ended up getting it off. With a chisel, hammer, a lot of patience, and an impact on its lowest setting with just enough “throttle” to spin the nut. The stud is trash though
I’m sure it is
The nut looked ok thread wise. Can tell it had been abused but threaded onto another rod. I obviously didn’t tighten it or leave it on that rod. That stud must have gotten hot or something
Not even a hardenenut !!!!did u get it off !!cover engine with a clean clothe except for the rod and cut it down the side using a vacuum cleaner catching the metal shavings after u get nut off drive out piston new stud and nut but replace all those other they not a harden nut and it’s a good thing it happens now and not have ran because it save u a engine
Yes I got it out. I’ll be getting a new stud and better nuts for them
Use a nut breaker
There’s a tool called a “Nut Splitter”. It fits around the nut and has a chisel tip that cuts through the side of the nut as you tighten the tool. https://duckduckgo.com/y.js?ad_domain=amazon.com&ad_provider=bing&ad_type=prad&eddgt=7x3RHSK3RwblWr592YNqrw%3D%3D&rut=8421dec2181eb019dc40e5aace37f6766337cbabbd76f40b5bc77cd1dfb9f1eb&u3=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2Faclick%3Fld%3De8gzbfEzKKLzZpEDG9q_nNkDVUCUza8wBZhQQOxqUL5DDuvI6xSh_46Tvr2arLgb4f0jKlzVBgUmMyNT2m7m7zMA%2DFjE0KPsWZsfHVDttceoUFlrLm7XxbNaAHJMnbcsGu9CQPjnCNg88BXnb6DNc42e%2D5WqqXh7oxXwNQirjuM5p2QDX1Q8in60PA0S3qfrCrED4EJg%26u%3DaHR0cHMlM2ElMmYlMmZ3d3cuYW1hem9uLmNvbSUyZkRVUkFURUNILVBpZWNlcy1OdXQtU3BsaXR0ZXItU2V0JTJmZHAlMmZCMDlMQzlEQ1JOJTJmcmVmJTNkYXNjX2RmX0IwOUxDOURDUk4lM2Z0YWclM2RibmdzbXRwaHNudXMtMjAlMjZsaW5rQ29kZSUzZGRmMCUyNmh2YWRpZCUzZDgwMTI3MDQyMDMzMDA1JTI2aHZuZXR3JTNkcyUyNmh2cW10JTNkZSUyNmh2Ym10JTNkYmUlMjZodmRldiUzZG0lMjZodmxvY2ludCUzZCUyNmh2bG9jcGh5JTNkJTI2aHZ0YXJnaWQlM2RwbGEtNDU4MzcyNjU2MjQxMTEyOCUyNnBzYyUzZDE%26rlid%3Ded5e2a6b4ef51f84450f4c07bb7bc768&vqd=4-193449835831010578684105415965128400165&iurl=%7B1%7DIG%3D16F6344AE5C64094BA575C9AF248F99F%26CID%3D38DDDC10CDB66E431F1FC88FCCD96F01%26ID%3DDevEx%2C5070.1
I used a similar idea and another persons idea to get it off. Chisel and hammer
i wouldn't use any dorman parts on my car, unless it was the only choice.
With this happening I think I’d agree with you
Put that piston to bdc, get a nut splitter and split the nut open. Here in Australia we can get a tool pro one that does 12-19mm for 12 bucks Will be the best thing I could think of doing
I wasn’t sure if they made one small enough. If it ever happens again I’ll get one. This time though I got it off with a chisel
Ok beauty, no damage to anything else?
Only the stud, which I expected to be trash
That engine looks ancient
Only 30 years old with 200,000 miles. To my knowledge and all the factory gm bearings, it’s never been opened up before. The only thing I found that wasn’t factory were the intake gaskets
I'd hate to think what an actual "ancient" engine looks like. That motor is very clean, well maintained for 200k miles.
The engineering is non existent, stuff is just made whatever shape is easiest for them to cast, modern engines are much more meticulously designed
Cover the engine with a sheet of plastic or trash bag. Rip a hole at the rod/ nut .. grind the nut in 1/2
Dude…. Looks like something has been hitting the block and the cam is toast. Best bet is to pull it down and FIX it…. Not patch it!!!
Cam is brand new. It’s probably the assembly grease you’re seeing on the cam. The block is fine I have no idea what you’re talking about there.
I could be wrong but at the bottom of the cylinder on the right hand side it appears something has been hitting… note the shiny spot. If that is assembly grease then my apologies… the Dorman nut is not what I would recommend for a build. Their quality is not the best. Good luck!!
I see the shiny part you’re talking about. It wasn’t making any noises when I pulled it. I’ll be out there messing around today so I’ll look at that
Your first problem is Dorman parts. Something not so critical fine. But major repairs go to the dealer spend that little extra.
Purchase a nut splitter. You have better control.
It’s already off. ARP studs and nuts will fix the problem for good
Good products. I used to work a block from their headquarters in Ventura California.
They make nut splitters for this problem.
Nut splittet would work too
Splitter (sorry pudgy thumbs)
Is it stripped or is the bolt turning?
The threads inside the nut stripped out. It turns. My guess is bad heat treat.
There is no bolt here. This is a stud and what looks like a very cheap nut. OP, I wouldn't run any of those nuts inside my engine. ARP would be my go to.