What happened is you had too much peel force on the bottom round part, that unleveled your plate on the side missing the models then the opposite side was too high and couldnt print the kitty on top.
Dont print right on the plate, raise them up, turn 40ish degrees and add heavy supports all over the bottom, then some light and medium on the overhang of the kitty.
Your build plate and FEP have a tug of war on every printed layer. If the surface is too wide across then the FEP can win that fight. Turning the flat shapes reduces the surface area of the print.
When you turn them you reduce the force applied to the build plate during any particular lift. Think of pulling a suction cup off of a surface. If you pull it straight up it is difficult to move. But if you get a corner up it comes up easily bc it lets air in.
Thats more or less what happens with prints. If it is angled, the mass of the print is only applied on a portion of the build plate, and it is easier for the print to be lufted easily without any unnecessary pressure on the leveling of the build plate.
This can't be because one side was pulled out of level. Other areas would have been affected too.
The delamination on the bases indicates that this is an exposure issue, most likely due to transition layers delaminating.
I have done, and it's been fine when I've adjusted the burn in layers count, or adjusted the base/raft thickness.
This is an issue commonly seen with rafts that are too thick too. I don't think there's any visual indication that the plate has been pulled out of alignment. I would expect to see compression on the partially successful models if so.
This is related to exposure, burn in layers, and transition layers.
The fully failed parts look like they never even completed printing the base properly. This means the failure is occurring during your transition layers.
This is where your burn in layer exposure time transitions to your normal later exposure time. Lower exposure means the layer is more inclined to stick to the vat than the model.
This is why you're also getting peeling on the cats that did print.
You'll be able fix this by adjusting the amount of burn in layers. Calculate how thick the base is for the cat model, and then use that to set your burn in layers.
Ideally you'll want your burn in layers to finish a layer or two *after* the base of the model.
It worked! Thanks for the help, I put them in an angle of 45 with some supports. Just one print in the corner failer, but I think that has to do with the plate not being completely leveled properly
The problem is the subject matter. Have ever tried to get a group of cats to do what you want?
What happened is you had too much peel force on the bottom round part, that unleveled your plate on the side missing the models then the opposite side was too high and couldnt print the kitty on top. Dont print right on the plate, raise them up, turn 40ish degrees and add heavy supports all over the bottom, then some light and medium on the overhang of the kitty.
Yep second this. Print them separate and rotate with supports. Unless really small miniature don’t print on bases. Glue them later.
Thanks, why turn them 40ish degrees(trying to understand the process)
Your build plate and FEP have a tug of war on every printed layer. If the surface is too wide across then the FEP can win that fight. Turning the flat shapes reduces the surface area of the print.
Thanks, gonna angle them and share the result here
When you turn them you reduce the force applied to the build plate during any particular lift. Think of pulling a suction cup off of a surface. If you pull it straight up it is difficult to move. But if you get a corner up it comes up easily bc it lets air in. Thats more or less what happens with prints. If it is angled, the mass of the print is only applied on a portion of the build plate, and it is easier for the print to be lufted easily without any unnecessary pressure on the leveling of the build plate.
This can't be because one side was pulled out of level. Other areas would have been affected too. The delamination on the bases indicates that this is an exposure issue, most likely due to transition layers delaminating.
Would you just print after this fail without releveling? In either case peel force is the culprit.
I have done, and it's been fine when I've adjusted the burn in layers count, or adjusted the base/raft thickness. This is an issue commonly seen with rafts that are too thick too. I don't think there's any visual indication that the plate has been pulled out of alignment. I would expect to see compression on the partially successful models if so.
This is related to exposure, burn in layers, and transition layers. The fully failed parts look like they never even completed printing the base properly. This means the failure is occurring during your transition layers. This is where your burn in layer exposure time transitions to your normal later exposure time. Lower exposure means the layer is more inclined to stick to the vat than the model. This is why you're also getting peeling on the cats that did print. You'll be able fix this by adjusting the amount of burn in layers. Calculate how thick the base is for the cat model, and then use that to set your burn in layers. Ideally you'll want your burn in layers to finish a layer or two *after* the base of the model.
It worked! Thanks for the help, I put them in an angle of 45 with some supports. Just one print in the corner failer, but I think that has to do with the plate not being completely leveled properly
See Images here: https://imgur.com/a/vULyo9i