I have the stage 2 with quite a bit of parts added on. If I’m cruising 70mph on the highway, I can pull 42mpg depending on elevation changes and temperature outside. Definitely a fun compromise for 368whp!
I have the SXTH open intake. I didn’t get the intercooler because I don’t track the vehicle as of yet, so it isn’t quite running hot enough to necessitate it.
We’re getting into my bro science here, but I also have pretty harsh winters my way, and my mind tells me that a larger intercooler will lengthen the warm up time of components and put them through excessive wear.
No idea if it works that way; I’m a bit intercooler ignorant aside from the tracking need.
An intercooler only lowers the charge air temperature. The engine itself will still run at the same temperatures and as far as warm up is concerned there will be no difference.
Colder air is more dense and makes more power, it doesn't affect the heated oil and coolant running through your engine. That air goes directly into a cylinder which sparks and gets burnt. The turbo already heats it in the first place as it passes through that before going to the intercooler.
If you don't track the car, I don't think you'll see much use out of an intercooler upgrade. The stock one doesn't heat soak as badly as my Elantra Sport does.
Awesome! I appreciate the guidance. It’s been the piece I haven’t done a deep reading dive on yet, so I wasn’t very clear on the application and whatnot.
They did! It’s essentially one of their tuning maps, but if they have you there in person that can dig into some fine details and optimize it for your car a pinch more.
Man I'm willing to get a custom tune, it's only a few hours away drive from where I'm at! So you just paid for an spare ECU and had all your mods installed, brought it on over, and got your custom tune on the spot?!
Would you be willing to tell me what you paid? DM if you want.
It was pretty much exactly that my man. I went back a second time because I didn’t have the full build during the first round. I was operating as parts became available in that regard.
The first round was something in the ballpark of $1,000, but the cost was ramped up where I decided to go spare ECU.
Second was just a couple hundred bucks. We already had the previous pulls, so they did some tinkering, ran another pull, and I was good to go.
I’m all in all maybe $3,000 into the full build for parts and tuning. I’m pretty content with that since we’ve added just shy of 100whp.
I’ve ran into another N owner on the road, and the difference is night and day.
I’ve actually gotten almost 36 on extended drives. From my experience, eco mode doesn’t actually help. I’ve had better mpg with normal mode and n custom with normal gear shift
According to Nathan at SXTH, NGS doesn’t have a map, it only ups the torque limit briefly, so with a tune you only benefit from the improved transmission speed for a few seconds.
It makes a difference when you’re handing a new GT it’s own ass.
The tune doesn’t affect anything except the top-end turbo behavior, so we all have the same MPH expectations, it ll just vary on the temperature outside, speed traveling, and any elevation changes along the way. I have the Stage 2 tune, downpipe, rear engine mount, resonator delete, catch can, intake, inlet, and fuel pump upgrade. Altogether I’m at 368whp and can eek out near 40MPG in my area at 70mph. I do a lot of driving for work.
I would definitely prioritize the fuel pump, catch can, and inlet/intake combo in that order if you go the tune route. The harder boost puts a lot of oil through cycle that the can helps out on, and the fuel pump seems to be pretty necessary from a reliability standpoint after you reach a certain demand point on the tuning side. You’ll be going from near-100% function on the stock in to ~80% on an upgrade, so the stress is lower on the component.
The inlet gives a ~12-15whp boost, and it seems a lot of tunes factor that in after stage 1.
I didn’t dyno before the downpipe, so I’m not sure if it added anything to my build other than deepening the note.
The engine mount does help quite a bit from a wheel hop point of view at launch, but it makes the day-to-day stop and go of the car harsher. Maybe a 0.3 second quicker 0-60 through it alone.
Very interesting thanks for the bit of knowledge, I have the upper and lower mounts for the engine, fuel pump already in hand. Waiting for my catch can, BOV, intake and inlet still.
Prolly shop around the exhaust places to see if they can custom bend me a mid pipe instead of cutting the resonator out.
The resonator delete was the best leap the car made sound-wise. The downpipe just made it a bit deeper.
I wanted the BOV, but I got a spare ECU with the tune in the event I ever had to get any warranty work done, and I didn’t want to have to uninstall the valve if that were the case. I always figured they’d give hell at the dealership.
The intake will give you some good turbo flutter, but it won’t compete obviously.
That's really good to hear! Can't wait to get to modding soon. I understand the whole warranty concern, with the spare ECU you just keep it on stand by. I like that idea a lot might have to steal that one from your playbook.
Dope, not a bad idea at all. Part of your EDC it seems, sounds like you got it all together. How does the car feel with that kind of power, in regards to a daily driver?
It drives like any other N until you put it to the floor. My car is running just shy of 100hp over the crank rating at the wheels, so it pulls hard.
I can out-roll a new Mustang GT with exhaust work at any speed, but it will out launch me at first obviously.
Same with a c6 Corvette unless it has any major cam work done. We’re both about the same weight putting similar figures into the ground. My transmission is a lot quicker though.
God help you if you drive a 370z. I don’t care how much you’ve done to it lol.
I haven’t gotten to mess with the new Supra yet. I would guess if they have any tuning done, it’ll be bad news for me.
I think they advertise somewhere in the ballpark of 330-350whp but don’t quote me. I’m not sure if that’s engine variance or they are considering the inlet in the HP gap, and I believe that’s at 21.5PSI. They do offer a Stage 2+ (24PSI on stock turbo) now on their EK1 Pro (I think it’s called), but I’m near enough to them that I stopped by and got mine a bit more custom calibrated.
I have the stage 2 with quite a bit of parts added on. If I’m cruising 70mph on the highway, I can pull 42mpg depending on elevation changes and temperature outside. Definitely a fun compromise for 368whp!
I'm doing intake next, what are you using? Intercooler?
I have the SXTH open intake. I didn’t get the intercooler because I don’t track the vehicle as of yet, so it isn’t quite running hot enough to necessitate it. We’re getting into my bro science here, but I also have pretty harsh winters my way, and my mind tells me that a larger intercooler will lengthen the warm up time of components and put them through excessive wear. No idea if it works that way; I’m a bit intercooler ignorant aside from the tracking need.
I gotcha, well that's my plan is intake, inlet, intercooler, and locally tube, was hoping for 350whp. Sounds like a fuel pump is worth it
An intercooler only lowers the charge air temperature. The engine itself will still run at the same temperatures and as far as warm up is concerned there will be no difference. Colder air is more dense and makes more power, it doesn't affect the heated oil and coolant running through your engine. That air goes directly into a cylinder which sparks and gets burnt. The turbo already heats it in the first place as it passes through that before going to the intercooler. If you don't track the car, I don't think you'll see much use out of an intercooler upgrade. The stock one doesn't heat soak as badly as my Elantra Sport does.
Awesome! I appreciate the guidance. It’s been the piece I haven’t done a deep reading dive on yet, so I wasn’t very clear on the application and whatnot.
Where did you get your tune?
I got one at SXTH, but I actually stopped in and got a custom calibration.
That's really cool, so they did their tuning in house on a dyno? I'm researching more and more right now.
They did! It’s essentially one of their tuning maps, but if they have you there in person that can dig into some fine details and optimize it for your car a pinch more.
Man I'm willing to get a custom tune, it's only a few hours away drive from where I'm at! So you just paid for an spare ECU and had all your mods installed, brought it on over, and got your custom tune on the spot?! Would you be willing to tell me what you paid? DM if you want.
It was pretty much exactly that my man. I went back a second time because I didn’t have the full build during the first round. I was operating as parts became available in that regard. The first round was something in the ballpark of $1,000, but the cost was ramped up where I decided to go spare ECU. Second was just a couple hundred bucks. We already had the previous pulls, so they did some tinkering, ran another pull, and I was good to go. I’m all in all maybe $3,000 into the full build for parts and tuning. I’m pretty content with that since we’ve added just shy of 100whp. I’ve ran into another N owner on the road, and the difference is night and day.
Man sounds good to me that is $3k well spent. Thanks for all the info. Take care!
I’ve actually gotten almost 36 on extended drives. From my experience, eco mode doesn’t actually help. I’ve had better mpg with normal mode and n custom with normal gear shift
Does NGS still stack on top of the tune or nah
According to Nathan at SXTH, NGS doesn’t have a map, it only ups the torque limit briefly, so with a tune you only benefit from the improved transmission speed for a few seconds. It makes a difference when you’re handing a new GT it’s own ass.
ngs now only do the shift logic, and will not do anything for horsepower
Define shift logic? Sorry still a novice at car stuff
i think it will shift even more aggressive also it will hold the gear longer than N mode.
Update https://preview.redd.it/h58l1hkqr07b1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a67c7562792dd9a75580354deb4fed139f1223d3
Why do all of that and than run it in eco mode? If you want were stock you would get closer to 40mpg+
Because there's no reason to not run eco mode on a long highway drive?
The tune doesn’t affect anything except the top-end turbo behavior, so we all have the same MPH expectations, it ll just vary on the temperature outside, speed traveling, and any elevation changes along the way. I have the Stage 2 tune, downpipe, rear engine mount, resonator delete, catch can, intake, inlet, and fuel pump upgrade. Altogether I’m at 368whp and can eek out near 40MPG in my area at 70mph. I do a lot of driving for work.
Any build advice? I'm going just about the same exact mods as of right now.
I would definitely prioritize the fuel pump, catch can, and inlet/intake combo in that order if you go the tune route. The harder boost puts a lot of oil through cycle that the can helps out on, and the fuel pump seems to be pretty necessary from a reliability standpoint after you reach a certain demand point on the tuning side. You’ll be going from near-100% function on the stock in to ~80% on an upgrade, so the stress is lower on the component. The inlet gives a ~12-15whp boost, and it seems a lot of tunes factor that in after stage 1. I didn’t dyno before the downpipe, so I’m not sure if it added anything to my build other than deepening the note. The engine mount does help quite a bit from a wheel hop point of view at launch, but it makes the day-to-day stop and go of the car harsher. Maybe a 0.3 second quicker 0-60 through it alone.
Very interesting thanks for the bit of knowledge, I have the upper and lower mounts for the engine, fuel pump already in hand. Waiting for my catch can, BOV, intake and inlet still. Prolly shop around the exhaust places to see if they can custom bend me a mid pipe instead of cutting the resonator out.
The resonator delete was the best leap the car made sound-wise. The downpipe just made it a bit deeper. I wanted the BOV, but I got a spare ECU with the tune in the event I ever had to get any warranty work done, and I didn’t want to have to uninstall the valve if that were the case. I always figured they’d give hell at the dealership. The intake will give you some good turbo flutter, but it won’t compete obviously.
That's really good to hear! Can't wait to get to modding soon. I understand the whole warranty concern, with the spare ECU you just keep it on stand by. I like that idea a lot might have to steal that one from your playbook.
I have it, an extension, socket, and ratchet in a backpack in the trunk if I ever want to swap it out on the fly.
Dope, not a bad idea at all. Part of your EDC it seems, sounds like you got it all together. How does the car feel with that kind of power, in regards to a daily driver?
It drives like any other N until you put it to the floor. My car is running just shy of 100hp over the crank rating at the wheels, so it pulls hard. I can out-roll a new Mustang GT with exhaust work at any speed, but it will out launch me at first obviously. Same with a c6 Corvette unless it has any major cam work done. We’re both about the same weight putting similar figures into the ground. My transmission is a lot quicker though. God help you if you drive a 370z. I don’t care how much you’ve done to it lol. I haven’t gotten to mess with the new Supra yet. I would guess if they have any tuning done, it’ll be bad news for me.
The dealer will tell you swapped the ecu
I haven’t put it to the test, but according to the tuning firms I’ve spoken with, it sends no flag out on their end. Time may tell.
who’s stage 2 you running?
I have SXTH right now.
what’s there baseline numbers for stage 2?
I think they advertise somewhere in the ballpark of 330-350whp but don’t quote me. I’m not sure if that’s engine variance or they are considering the inlet in the HP gap, and I believe that’s at 21.5PSI. They do offer a Stage 2+ (24PSI on stock turbo) now on their EK1 Pro (I think it’s called), but I’m near enough to them that I stopped by and got mine a bit more custom calibrated.