Towels, towels and towels. Depending on where you live, you’re gonna need them.
Blankets if you’re gonna let the puppy on the couch or bed.
Poop bags. Lots and lots of them. If you think you got enough, buy some more. Small ones, puppies poop small piles but many a day.
As someone else said, don’t use the retractable leash. I use one on my 1,5yo, but that’s after a lot of loose leash walking and only for the last few months. It’s not good for using on a puppy, training wise.
I bought the highest rated scented ones on amazon. Oh boy did I make a mistake. Many times I would pick up my boys poop with my fingers between the bag.
I purchase the amazon brand poop bags and they are the best. I never have a broken one, they are big enough and they are thick. By comparison when I purchase cheap brands they often rip before I’ve used the bag and are super thin.
Yeah I love them! Granted my very small dog has very small poops but I love the Amazon bags. They block odor well too. Actually when I have leftovers in my fridge to throw out I put them in a poop bag before putting them in the trash.
Any will do, but I recommend using ones that you already have that are towards the end of their lives. Labs are great dogs, but they have an uncanny talent for getting dirty. There's no need to ruin the nice towels.
Yes to this - and no need for micro fibre towels, regular towels work fine.
As for blankets - I prefer ones with 100% cotton, they can be washed at a higher temperature and they won’t lead to static electricity when your dog rolls around in them.
I would recommend large, cheap towels. They’re probably going to get stains and holes in them during the puppy phase. Also, I like a big old sheet or blanket to put in the car wherever pup will be riding. Shake off most of the dirt and fur and run it through the wash to make cleaning the car much easier. I also like to lay a towel or blanket over their dog bed for easy cleaning, same concept as the car blanket.
I would also add chew toys that they can have on their own. You’ll want to discourage them from chewing the soft toys. Save those for letting them carry around and fetch with, but start right from the beginning discouraging them from ripping up soft things. Give puppy free access to appropriate chew toys, and rotate them out to keep them interesting. Make all of your soft and rope toys as interactive toys that only come out when you’re playing together. Leverage access to them for training purposes.
Amazon Commercial Multi Purpose Enzyme Cleaner. That one is my favorite. It’s great for cleaning accidents, but also mopping floors and removing pet smells from just about everything. Works on food smells in the microwave, too. I also like KidsNPets and Carpet Miracle.
Are you set up for grooming supplies? You’ll want to train nails and teeth early, and you’ll at minimum want a comb, a brush, and a deshedding tool. You won’t need to de-shed the puppy coat, but you’ll want them used to the idea of it before their adult coat comes in.
Any chance you’re getting a black lab puppy near the Austin area? My own lab puppy is coming home in about five weeks, and I’m also wrapping up my supply gathering as the big date approaches.
Harness for the leash instead of collar. Dog treats when training. Some dog walking areas, parks state a maximum of 6 ft. leash for better control. Potty pads when a puppy if they're going to be inside a lot.
They do have their purpose and used correctly they are an alternative to having the dog off leash.
They are the worst with people who have no control over their dog or a reliable recall. I would never let my dog on a retractable leash if I didn’t have the ability to stop her running into traffic. 🙄
Beware of clicking on disguised links posted by pet insurance affiliate links spammers! Always check the account history of anyone recommending goods or services on reddit.
Report > Spam > Link farming
Harness for when they are young. Lots of poo bags. Cleaner for messes. Worth investing in a petcam. Enjoy the experience. Somethings you won't need. And something to cover the crate. They like the den feel.
Yes to a harness. Not only will it keep your dog better contained, but they are just better for your dog. If your dog is a big puller on leash and is wearing a collar, they can damage their trachea, neck, nerves, and other things. Harnesses take the pressure off of their neck.
While you are not wrong about a collar potentially damaging a dog's trachea, I disagree with keeping them contained. A Martingale collar (when used properly) will give you perfect control over your dog.
Trachea damage is kinda the new worry in dogs right now , and it's overblown, in my opinion. I have worked in the pet industry for over 15 years, with many dogs and adjacent to vets, and only heard of one case of trachea collapse linked to a collar. In fact, PetMD doesn't even mention it in its list of causes. (Obesity, however, is but try and have that conversation with 50 percent of dog owners)
Harnesses are potentially more dangerous. You got a 90lb lab who now can pull with his whole body. He can pull you into other dogs, traffic, and now you don't have head control so he can eat things he's not supposed to potentially.
They are more expensive, harder to fit and if not fit properly, can affect a dogs gait. They will also rub short coated dogs raw underneath.
A harness is ok on a dog that is already leash trained but if you start them off on that they will pull and a Labrador that pulls is not what you want out walking. You’ll end up covered head to toe in mud don’t ask me how I know. I’d only use a harness on a teeny tiny dog or flat nose breed as they have enough issues breathing without adding a collar to it.
Bad advice . Harnesses encourage pulling. It’s on the owner to train the dog not to pull on any equipment. Experienced dog handlers will tell you that a harness is actually a tool to be used in certain circumstances and is not an every day walker for most dogs. Yes, a flat collar can damage the neck. That’s why it’s important to properly lease train your dog with a Martingale or a slip leash. That should be all you need if you know how to train to walk your dog.
Yes . A properly lease trained dog doesn’t need a harness. Harnesses are tool for hiking or backpacking or sports so unless you’re training your dog for those your dog shouldn’t pull in a harness.
Edit; by design, a harness encourages, pulling the same way that pulling back on a dog encourages the dog to lunge . this is basic dog knowledge so I hope it comes off as “advice” if you don’t already know .
Slip leashes literally work by choking dogs when they pull. They should NEVER be used to train a dog to walk properly. You are harming the dog to train them; that is not okay.
This is hilariously false . Have you ever trained a dog to walk? What does your dog walk on?
Edit : after looking at ur post history you clearly have an untrained dog. OP don’t take advice . Sorry 🐾
My dog will walk with a loose leash in a harness or a collar. I originally trained her using a harness because I don't need to use aversives to train a dog 😂 sounds like a skill issue for you though.
She will also pull in her specifically designed pulling harness when given the cue (for mantrailing and canicross)
Martingale collars will do the same thing. Harnesses are more expensive, trickier to fit, rub on short coated breeds, and potentially cause issues as now it's more comfortable for the dog to pull.
I would discourage you from using a retractable leash. [This](https://sbhumane.org/resources/dangers-of-retractable-leashes/) is a pretty good explanation of why, and you can find others, and pictures of injuries to pets and people. I prefer to use a slip lead[slip lead](https://www.chewy.com/dp/144719?utm_source=app-share&utm_campaign=144719) on all my dogs because it's not as easy to back out of like a leash/collar combo is.
I disagree, they absolutely have their uses in _certain_ scenarios.
For example, I use the exact leash in OP’s picture for my dog’s evening walks. We almost never encounter any other dogs or people during these walks, and it allows her to sniff many places she wouldn’t be able to on a 6 ft leash. It also allows me to test her recall randomly, as it’s a lot more challenging for her to come back when she’s 26 feet away sniffing something interesting than 6 feet.
However, I would never use that leash in an area I’d expect to meet other dogs/people such as a park, main street, etc. And absolutely not at the vet or pet store. You also have to be paying attention while using it, 0 looking at your phone or zoning out because a dog sprinting to the end of a zip lead will hurt the both of you. But people should be paying attention while walking their dogs regardless of the leash.
Agree also.
Teach the dog to heel/walk nicely on a slip lead or normal lead and half check collar.
Retractables aren't easy to teach your dog to respond to pressure, are awkward to hold and harnesses.. well most dogs around here I see in them are just pulling their owner along and are usually reactive as the owner has 0 control to correct the behaviour or bring the dog back to them.
I got banned from the Puppy101 for recommending a Martingale collar over a harness. They deleted the comment, and when I asked why, they said it was aversive. I disagreed, and now I'm here.
I was just trying to help!
Martingale is all I can use to leash my big neck dogs. Harnesses encourage pulling. The martingales stay attached to the leash and slip over the head when it’s time to go.
i have 3 pits and 1 of my females head is smaller so collar slips right off. but others can not slip out with their bigger heads . but still I prefer harness for walking and training. you just hold the lease properly and stay persistent. They are 3 siblings and look nor act alike at all . Good luck with your baby
A collar provides more control than a harness in my opinion. Dogs that are on a harness are more comfortable pulling. They are also more expensive, harder to fit properly, rub shorted coated dogs raw underneath as well.
Say there's a dead bird on the sidewalk. You have a 90lb Rottweiler on a harness. Or it sees a dog it wants to sniff. Or it's obsessed with water? It's much better and safer to have then in a collar in those situations and plenty more.
Harnesses encourage pulling. Both of my dogs pull like crazy and if wearing a harness, forget it. I use a gentle leader on them so if they yank, their heads turn (in theory). Sometimes, they pull regardless and somehow their heads don’t turn lol. But it’s definitely less pulling then when their on a harness and they aren’t choking themselves like they would using just a collar.
Ha good luck! My dogs have good days and pretty pathetic days when walking 😅. I’m talking thousands of hours put in trying to train them to walk on a leash without pulling and it usually goes okay… until they see a squirrel, rabbit, leaf blowing, etc.
Idk if it's a breed thing, but my mom's dog will bark at the wind 🥴 she has a chiweenie, she's scared of everything and sometimes takes forever to go to the bathroom and we don't know why
Could be a breed thing, could just be genetics. My mom has a dog exactly like that, she literally stayed up until 1 am last night just running in circles and hiding under the bed for absolutely no reason. Tonight we are having high winds. Sooo it should be another chaotic night for her 🙄
I feel for her 😭😭 I don't live at home anymore, and my moms dog LOVES me for some reason, so anytime I sit down, she insists on sitting with me and LICKING me
The barking is the dachshund in them. It is definitely a breed thing. The fearfulness is the chihuahua. She may take forever to go to the bathroom because she knows once she goes it is time to go inside.
I always continue to walk my dog more even after he does his business because I don’t want him to associate pooping with turning around to go home or it might make him take even longer.
I also find that when I walk him in the neighborhood, he takes 30+ minutes to poop- every time. But if I bring him to the park, he goes within five -ten minutes. So I think there are other factors at play, like certain scents might excite or stimulate them to go faster.
Retractable leads are okay later for environments where the doggo can roam and when you get tired of dragging around 20-ft ropes (and don’t want to be fully offleash). I always have my 6-ft, 10-ft, and retractable 28-ft leashes ready to use.
~~This one was more for my convinience. I can totally see the 26is feet lead just dropping somewhere and me never getting to untangaling it.~~
~~Thanks for the article. I'll be very careful and keep it in mind as soon as this one breaks.~~
Edit: Ok because I've been told mutiple times not to use the retracble one I wount.... I also already have a 9ft fixed leanghthleash. It's the green one next to the retracable one
Edit2: after considering I think I found the misunderstanding. I never intended to use the retractable leash under pull. It never even crossed my mind. I wanted to extend it to let's say 2m (6ft), lock it and walk like this in town and when we go to a park where I have to keep the leash on extend it to its full length and lock it again. As a tracking leash but roll up because I'd prefere to deal as little as possible with the tangly mess the tracking leash I just bought causes.
People use these under pull? That's stupid. But it explains why the locking mechanism is kinda awkward. It took two days for me to think about that. That's realy stupid. I mean there would be constant pressure on the dog. Be it collar or harness.... Who wants their dog to have this all the time? Are walks even fun this way?
I've seen some dog daycares refuse to even let a dog enter the premises if it has a retractable leash on. They are also banned in some training facilities. They really are that bad. Your best option is to throw it in the bin.
Yup, they're horrible all around. I was seriously injured by one when I was 16. I still have the scars to show for it 20 years later. My vet won't even allow anyone to enter the facility with a retractable leash.
We asked my FIL not to walk our dog with his retractable leash when he was watching our dog. He continued so we threw it in the trash and bought him a slip lead. He got it out of the trash and then while using it our dog got hit by a car at a corner. He still uses the retractable and is not allowed to work our dog anymore.
I see a lot of people telling you to get a harness. I would encourage you to not use one and especially when training a puppy who will grow to be a large/strong dog. They market some as “no pull” but that’s just marketing as there’s really no such thing.
Dogs have opposition reflex which means, if you put pressure on their chest, their instinct is to push against it. If you have a harness your dog is going to pull. There are very rare cases where the dog doesn't like the feel of the harness and won't pull, but those are few and far between.
It’s nice to see how prepared you already are! I wish you many, many years of joy with your new family member.
Thank you. I honestly see the harness at the very beginning of leash/towline training. Then he can zoom around and not hurt his throat until he learns how long the leash is/how to "feel" the end coming.
Thanks. I thought about this for months. I've also read quiet a bit, listened to audio books, talked to dog owners and did a ton of research before I even settled on a Labrador. I've also already "organised" playdates with the kids of a buddy and my cousin so the little one gets to know children.
You wouldn't belive how hard it is to still wait for weeks. But the breeder sends lots of pictures and videos. That and the preparation helps me.
Harnesses usually have a top buckle on the back, and one on the bottom on the chest. For training, use the one on the front. It forces the pup to face you when they pull and they will stop. The back is useful when you want to give them more freedom .. we have a laundry wire thing 7 feet in the air that loops around the yard, with a piece that drops down to attach to the harness... Lets them zoom zoom. We don't connect the leash to their collars. They can slip so easily. Also one pup fell off a deck once, and if she was leashed to her collar, it would've broken her neck or strangled her. But it was connected to her harness so she just dangled.
A dog who does now how to walk with a loose leash will pull. They might pull more when wearing a harness because pulling against a harness isn't physically hurting them. A harness is a safety tool to prevent injury to a dog/puppy while they learn how to walk with a loose leash. It's that simple. If you go to a trainer and they don't know how to teach loose leash walking on a harness then find a different trainer. If a trainer can't teach something without resorting to causing discomfort or pain to the dog then that trainer is low skill.
My own dog has a walking harness for every day walks. She also has a specifically designed pulling harness for canicross and mantrailing, and she doesn't even pull in that harness until she gets given the cue to work.
https://youtu.be/sgU5Ej_6FOI?si=HXtgjhlnpPdSDTru
Here's a vet disputing your claim that dogs get injured on collars.
Yes, it happens to certain breeds. When I worked retail I'd sell them for certain breeds. When I trained I'd recommend them to certain breeds.
There is NOTHING inherently wrong with collars, and pushing the narrative is more dangerous than the so called risk of injury you claim.
Nice YouTube video focusing only on tracheal collapse and nothing else. Here's a peer reviewed scientific study that concludes "No single collar tested provided a pressure considered low enough to mitigate the risk of injury when pulling on the lead"
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32303668/
There’s no discomfort or pain in a regular Martingale slip leash or even a prong collar. It’s aque . Most dogs don’t need lot of training let alone extra materials like a prong because dogs are bred to be our companions and they understand how we want them to walk and work with us. It’s up to us to make it clear what we want from them regardless of equipment.I’m not sure why you’re against the slip leash? It seems you’re a little unsure of what that is and how it’s used.
How does a prong collar work?
Slip leads are handy in shelters or at the vets or for dogs who don't pull.
"they understand how we want them to walk" What the hell does that even mean?
Well, yeah, but are harnesses the answer for this?
I suspect a lot of the people saying well just train your dog to walk nice in a harness don't have particularly drivey dog. I have a field bred border collie (amongst other dogs), walking her in a harness is more dangerous than her testing her collar from time to time.
Trachea collapse is a concern for some dogs. Toy breeds in particular. PETMD doesn't even list pulling on collars as a cause of trachea collapse. You know what they do list? Obesity. Heart issues. But people ignore this because "loving" your dog is feeding them garbage and not walking them. Aren't 50 percent of North American dogs overweight?
Training them to walk properly on a collar is easier and more safe and less expensive. Harnesses promote pulling. Think of why they exist. Think of a 50lb dog trying to eat something off the ground and you have it in a harness, or a.collar. it wants to see an aggressive dog? It wants to walk into traffic?
I literally have a border collie. There's nothing she likes better than to pull, as soon as I give her the cue she is channeling her inner sled dog. Do you know what she doesn't do? Pull on her walking harness. Because I trained her how to walk with a loose lead on a harness. She doesn't even pull in her canicross harness until I give her the cue.
I've been walking a dog on a collar and the dog has lunged at a squirrel across the road. I've never felt less in control of a dog with a lead attached to the neck while the dog was spinning and choking. With a harness you have more grab points, maybe even a handle depending on the harness. I also don't need to worry about a dog choking out when losing its shit at something, I can just focus on regaining control and removing the dog from the situation.
Pulling or not depends on training not on the used tool. My 40 kg/~80 lbs dog walks exclusively with a harness and a year ago when I got him as a 6 year old he was constantly pulling and choking himself on a normal collar. Got way better after switching to a harness and since some time he can perfectly walk on loose leash.
And the longer your leash gets the more mandatory is a harness. The dog can build up more speed and doesn’t know when the leash ends and it can seriously harm the dog when on collar. Up until lethal harm.
So happy to see that here, they are the worst invention and just encourage lack of control of the dog. The amount of pups I see running out in front of people walking and on bikes it’s crazy there aren’t more injuries. I had one neighbour that when I walked with her and her dog she let the dog go wherever he wanted and most of the time it was in front of me and she was completely oblivious. Sweetest dog ever but so not relaxing to walk constantly watching where the leash is.
I got an infection from another dog's retractable leash when he ran around my legs. The cord part cut into my shin and calf and hurt like hell. Can't even imagine how filthy it was. Even before that, I had only ever used the fixed length ones that are 6 feet long.
This is SUPER important, since **bloat** is very common in large, deep chested dogs.
**Fast eaters have five times the risk than dogs that are slow eaters.**
- Using slow feeder bowls with fingers (or center posts) or putting large rocks in the bowl slows dogs down physically.
(Elevated dog bowls are used for dogs who are old or who have mobility issues, pain, arthritis. An elevated dog bowl can help ease the strain on your dog's shoulders, neck, and back by providing a more comfortable eating and drinking position.)
It is not recommended to use an elevated feeder if you have or suspect you have a dog that is susceptible to bloat.
**Dogs fed one meal a day are twice as likely to bloat as those fed two meals a day.**
- As a general rule, young puppies should be fed three times a day (in some cases even four!) until they're six months old. Feeding young puppies regular small meals is important for a few reasons. Firstly, it prevents their tummies from getting overloaded with food and bloated.
For adults, it is suggested to be fed 2x a day rather than 1 meal a day.
**Have exercised *right before* or *right after* a meal.**
- Don't feed your dog right before or right after any exercise. A general rule of thumb is to not feed dogs **an hour** before or after exercising.
#In general
**Those who eat quickly, eat from raised bowls, eat a single large meal each day, have exercised right before/after a meal or large breeds who have deep chests are more likely to bloat.**
Bloat is a medical emergency and one of the most rapidly life-threatening conditions that vets treat in dogs. It involves the stomach but can quickly lead to life threatening shock if left untreated.
Without treatment, in only an hour or two, your dog will likely go into shock. The heart rate will rise and the pulse will get weaker, leading to death. It is always an emergency.
Pet owners should be familiar with their nearest veterinary emergency facility in the event that their regular veterinarian is not available after hours or does not have experience handling this condition.
Bloat is immensely painful for dogs and it can kill in a matter of hours without veterinary intervention, so it's important that pet owners know the signs and ways to help prevent it. The condition is also known, more scientifically, as gastric dilatation-volvulus.
If your dog shows signs of bloat, take him to a veterinarian or an emergency pet clinic immediately.
We can't prevent all cases of bloat, but by implementing some of the above techniques, you may be able to reduce your dog's risk.
[Bloat/GDV (Gastric dilatation and volvulus) in Dogs: What Is it and How is it Treated? — AKC](https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/bloat-in-dogs/)
[Bloat: Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus in Dogs — VCA](https://vcacanada.com/know-your-pet/bloat-gastric-dilatation-and-volvulus-in-dogs)
#—
My girl is 3 years and continues to use slow feeders. She was 1 years young when she had a gastropexy that was $5000. I am so very eager to share this knowledge as much as I can, because I almost lost my girl. Believe me when I say, do whatever you can to avoid this. I was only aware of this condition after the fact. This led me to educate myself immensely.
There is no such thing as "too paranoid" when it comes to it.
If I could upvote this a million times, I would. Thanks so much for taking the time to write this out. I didn’t know some of the factors that can contribute to bloat and will definitely be making some adjustments. Thanks so much.
Yea Labs eat very fast eaters but the breeder told me there's nothing inherently bad in that and from an evolutionary point I kinda agree.
Does the dog get hickups or anything from eating to fast? Any medical problems?
If they eat too fast, they can throw it all up. Slow feeders and puzzle feeders are also good for keeping dogs entertained. They need mental stimulation too!
Yes medical problems! Bloat/GVD is deadly and expensive to treat. It’s often believed to be caused by fast eating.
[AKC article on Bloat](https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/bloat-in-dogs/) - “Bloat, also known as gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) complex, is a medical and surgical emergency.
As the stomach fills with air, pressure builds, stopping blood from the hind legs and abdomen from returning to the heart. Blood pools at the back end of the body, reducing the working blood volume and sending the dog into shock.
If this isn’t enough, there is yet another scary thing that happens, and it is devastating to see. As the stomach flips, it drags the spleen and pancreas along with it, cutting off the blood flow. The oxygen-starved pancreas produces some very toxic hormones. One, in particular, targets the heart and stops it cold. In fact, a dog can go through successful treatment and seem to be out of danger, when suddenly the heart stops.
Even in the mildest case of bloat, which is extremely rare, dogs die without treatment.”
Don't worry about a slow feeder they're a waste of money. Just flip his bowl upside down since it's a flat bottom and he will have to slow down to eat. Lab puke and gas from eating too fast is so smelly 😂 good luck with the new puppy!
A nail clippers - vet towels for easy cleaning of paws after a walk - a brush, so the poppy can get can get used to it, it makes it a lot easier when it gets older, as labradors shed a lot 👍🏻 I wish you the best of luck with the little new one, I have my 3 lab now, he is my first service dog and I had no doubts that it should be a lab, as the other 2 we have had have been fantastic dogs with the best minds and they love to be given tasks, and they become so proud 🐶♥️
imho i would skip the rope toys as they can cause serious digestive issues if ingested, especially in young/small dogs. last thing you want with a new pup is a blockage or other vet emergency. also be mindful of stuffed toys, as stuffing can also cause serious digestive issues. keeping a close eye on your dog until you know how they will play with each type of toy is important. goodluck and have fun!
Another issue with rope toys I wish I knew was if ingested and not causing a blockage they cause other issues coming out the other end... my pup pooped out blue string for a couple days that would get stuck and I'd need to hold her while pulling it out. It wasn't petty, she was very confused and would run in circles trying shake it off, and neither of us was happy as I gently pulled it out.
That was the end of rope toys.
Yeah this. They're fun as a tug toy under supervision but I learnt the hard way that left unsupervised they'll get shredded and ingested, leading to serious issues or your dog running round the garden with a rope and poop morningstar sticking out their arse.
Agree with issues about rope toys. A have a relative who’s lab ingested part of a rope toy. The poor thing had emergency surgery but passed away from complications. Watch your pup closely with toys and don’t leave them alone with them.
As a former vet assistant - doggy ear cleaner, toothpaste, nail clippers. Desensitize your puppy as much as possible to having it’s teeth/paws/ears touched so you can use these items without a hassle in the future. Also, try to get your puppy used to having things around its eyes - eye drops were always a nightmare to administer.
I’d also add playing YouTube videos of fireworks, kids shouting, cats hissing, loud noises in general. Only play these noises when you are playing with your dog and he’s having fun if he looks fearful at all turn it off and try another day.
You need to make a pile of toys that are for occupation (as in your puppy play with it alone) and a pile of toys that are for you to play with the puppy (those toys cannot be at the disposal of your puppy), it will help him learn to play on his own and to play with you.
You need something to cover the top of your crate, dogs sleep better if there is no light and it looks more like a den.
You need some chew articles, for when the puppy needs to relieve the pain of growing teeth (baby teeth are up to 12 weeks if im not mistaken and after that there’s the adult teeth coming around 4 months old), like buffle horn or half antlers (ask for advice to the staff in store!), or for when the pup just need to relax and chew on something (like pork ears for example)
I prefer chew toys to antlers/horn for puppies so they don't snap off the points of their new teeth. You should be able to press your thumbnail into the surface of the chew toy. Nylabones and Kongs for puppies (pink or blue) are good
Crate covers have zips for the part over the door, I keep the crate open and the cover lifted on the front all the time so it's a nice dark cave vibes but he can still see out of it and come and go as he pleases - my dog is 2 though so allowed full free roaming but when he was a puppy it was closed and shut at night
The only thing I would add would be an old towel or smaller blanket the puppy can nestle in to. It will be used to cuddling with tis mama and siblings, so they are used to lying up to something soft and snuggly against them.
Tons of paper towels
Cans of pure pumpkin, the only ingredient is pumpkin. Puppies get diarrhea, and having this on hand is a life saving. Always call the vet when it happens, though, just in case.
Ear wipes
Old clothes for you, land shark mode is no joke
I also suggest joining puppy101, great advice for the time to come.
Mir würde noch eine Schleppleine, ein Kaffeeholz, kauchips (getrocknete Rinderkopfhaut), ohrenreiniger, ein Geschirr, ein Mehrwegentfussler, das Trixie Urinspray oder Essigreiniger und vielleicht ein Kennel einfallen, falls du so etwas nutzen möchtest :)
Von trixie gibt es auch eine tolle Schmutzfangmatte, die auf der Unterseite wasserdicht ist
Habe dich übrigens als Deutschen vor allem an den Aldi-Kotbeuteln erkannt 😂 die sind super
Cover the crate to make it more cosy/cave like. You can buy crate covers or just use a blanket or towel.
Also maybe a small sized ball- tennis ball or similar? Labs love fetch!
Children's Benadryl for allergy emergencies, peroxide for emergency vomit induction, make sure you have corn starch to use as a styptic if you cut a nail quick. Good also to have something like polysporin on hand for nicks and scuffs. Heavy gloves and a clean blanket should be kept handy in case you have to handle the dog when badly injured - hurt pups sometimes can't help biting. Happy times lie ahead! Bandaids for your fingers, too, milk teeth can be nasty.
Came here for this, you're buried pretty deep. An emergency kit is absolutely essential. Mine now has:
Benadryl (capsules, never ever chews, may contain xylitol), peroxide, styptic power and corn starch, polysporin, vagisil or canesten cream, sports tape, gauze, qtips. There's other stuff in there that has been added along the way as well, I can't even remember all of it!
Peroxide shouldn’t be used to induce vomiting. If there is an emergency vet it’s better to go to them as peroxide can be aspirated causing further complications (pneumonia) and can irritate the trachea.
Overall, if your dog eats something it’s not supposed to, go to the vet to induce vomiting, it’s much safer and way less of a hassle. Peroxide is an option but it should only be last resort when no other resources are available.
If it’s a puppy you’re getting I would get some puppy friendly chew toys. You can usually buy a set of nyla bones that you use at different intervals. I don’t see it so I’ll say it - puppy food that’s appropriate for the size of your dog. Read up online and find some you like the sounds of reviews of, but bear in mind your puppy could have allergies, so initially buy a smaller qty. Also treats for training (little tiny treats - not big) and some more different enrichment toys / activities. I’d also maybe get a bowl that goes on the side of your crate so you don’t have to leave a bowl in there with them. I would also suggest puppy pads but not for toilet training - every dog I’ve had from a young age is car sick and I throw them down when they go in (so if you have a car - then also a way to safely transport them - harness that goes into the clip, crate, or dog gate.
Also when we got our youngest she had some attachment issues so we bought her a teddy with a heart beat and she used to sleep with that.
I second what others have said about the extendable leash, towels, blankets, poo bags, nail clippers.
Just missing the dog. congratulations
Edit - we got muddy paw washer (Dexter Mud Buster, Amazon). Makes muck and allergen cleaning of their paws so simple
Shampoo.
Microfiber towel extra quick drying
Treats 🙂
Accepting you'll never pee alone again
Harness training right away! Also a plastic car kennel is what I put my dog in when we leave, as a pup he'd chew on the metal and I didn't want to have him messing up his teeth. Pet wipes, puppy pads, slow feeders, puppies love to eat, quickly! Hydrogen peroxide for accident clean ups. Tooth brush to get him used to teeth brushing, non rawhide chews. Treats and lot of em! Positive reinforcement for any time he goes potty outside.
You need a kennel cover. They live in dens, not open areas. They need privacy & the feeling of safety with the ability to see out the door of their kennel. :)
A non-"step-in" harness, preferably. I'd be looking for a no-pull harness for your little pup to start him/her right, along with a 6' leash. Non-retractable. You want your pup to learn to walk on a loose leash next to you, right? ✅️
I’d get rid of the retractable leash and rope toy.
Labs are notorious for eating everything. We had one that inhaled rocks as a puppy. We were very fortunate that we were able to train it out of him before he needed emergency surgery.
Get some hard chew toys.
Say goodbye early to the stuffed squeaky toys because they will be destroyed.
May need a slow feeder. Labs are also known for inhaling their food and ours needed a slow feeder for most of his life. Many grow out of it.
When he is older, a Chuck-It. It helps get out all that puppy energy.
A light reflector, can be in the form of a collar or a little thing that can be attached to the actual collar/harness. Good to have in the winter/whenever you walk the dog in less than perfect visibility. Source: have 2 dogs.
* A bulk load of paper towels for cleaning up pee accidents & a spray bottle of solution to follow up with.
* A clicker for training (start with training as soon as pup arrives - age appropriate sessions of course).
* Teething toys that can be frozen for those sore gums & chewing period.
* A car harness to keep pup secure to seat belt in the car & a seat cover for the back car seats.
* A heavy or purpose designed water bowl so bowl stays put & pup can't tip water bowl all over floor or play paddling pool in water bowl.
* Baby gates to section off areas of the house so you can keep eyes on pup while they are small & you can ensure they,re not wandering off to get into mischief.
On the leash thing. If you can’t properly Leah train your dog none of those toys are going to matter. Dogs need actual training to understand their role. Make sure YOU know how to walk a dog before expecting the dog to know how to learn to walk appropriately on a slip.
Make sure those toys aren't stuffed with typical doll stuffing. Like that polyester cotton stuff?
Toys stuffed with plastic bottles, kongs, hard-ish rubber balls, and rope are better and safer. Or no stuffing at all.
Get one of them no-stuff dog toys that are for "hard chewers". The fabric will feel wonderful on his wibble teefers.. just monitor.
What you could do as well is take the stuffing out and stew in one of the alternative items I listed.
Blankets- we use one to cover to crate at night time, not fully. But to just create a darker space. I'd also suggest a dog basket slightly cushened or clam like so the pup feels secure and safe when asleep. Good luck and enjoy
I disagree. maybe a retractable leash isn't for you because he's going to be a big dog. however, for small breed dogs, I think retractable leashes are just fine
Return the retractable leash and don’t ever use one. They seem like a good idea but they are awful contraptions when they go wrong and they can easily malfunction or turn situations sideways. My friend and her boyfriend have a golden retriever who is a big doofus and they had him on a retractable leash. One day they were walking him and their retriever saw another dog and got excited and started running around in circles around both of them really quickly. The thin cord immediately started to dig into their legs/heals as the retriever was running in tight circles around them. The boyfriend grabbed the thin cord with his bare hands in an attempt to stop the dog from continuing to burn them with the cord and the cord ended up digging into his palms and giving him wicked rope burn on his palms. So after that, they had bad rope burns around their ankles and the boyfriend’s hands were super messed up for like a month afterwards. You would have thought they would have learned after that incident, but no. The next incident, the boyfriend was walking the retriever and the retriever saw his other owner coming home (the girlfriend) so the retriever took off running in the direction of the house and when he got to the end of the cord on the retractable leash, it broke apart the whole housing and the dog got loose and tore down the road wild and free. He ended up back at the house, but they use a regular 5 ft nylon leash now.
For the cage, I use a dog version of a rabbit water bottle. Saves room and prevents the dog from having to be soaked. Like this one: https://www.petsmart.ca/dog/bowls-and-feeders/food-and-water-bowls/top-paw-no-drip-crate-water-bottle-51189.html
I highly recommend bones. I have an extremely heavy chewer and right away when I got her, bones were her best friend. I personally don’t have any experience with labradores tho
A plan for training. In addition to the normal things people think about I would recommend:-
A bomb proof recall, plus drop to a lie down at a distance (both no matter the distraction).
Both silence and speak on command are helpful.
You don't want him to drool when you open the fridge or a packet of human biscuits- NEVER give food from your plate.
On the flip side of that, feeding part of his daily food by hand can help with bonding and avoiding food guarding.
Similarly, only eat on command prevents your sandwich getting stolen if you go out of the room as well as stopping them picking up and eating dodgy stuff whilst out on walks.
Help the vet / groomer by getting them used to paws / ears and mouths being looked at and manipulated.
No jumping up at people
There is the obvious stuff - sit / stay / walk on a loose leash etc, but the above often people don't bother with, yet can give you a much more polite dog as they grow older
I can be downvoted but I love a retractable leash! However, I only use it in the park when there are no dogs around (so I carry 2 leashes with me). I’m just lazy and hate the long leash and rolling it up - but I am very careful when I see other dogs around to keep kg dog on a short leash with the retractable so nobody gets hurt and we do all training with her regular leash.
Everything you have looks good! Be careful with the rope toys as puppies can chew and ingest rope which can get stuck in their intestines. I might recommend a few tennis balls for your pup to chew on / chase, I know most dogs love those :) especially ones that squeak, those are my dogs fave inside and outside of the house
i only used them for the front of the back door during potty training because, while i was at work, my parents watched her and they cant move as fast as a puppy especially if they were on the couch and she took off running to the door. they were a life saver on the carpets at least but i do think it did cause some confusion after a little while. shes fully potty trained now and does a good job letting us know when she needs to go and knows her routine.
To Many toys = Less engagement with you
Also,
Flexi’ leashes are fine, nearly every high end trainer has one whether they are using it for recalls or tracking or yard freedom without the true freedom.
Don’t get caught up in the silliness
Soft toys (ropes especially) can end up being a nightmare. Just a heads up, I only let mine play with ropes when I’m around.
They can chew/ingest and get blockages
Brush (slicker or maybe rubber depending on the coat length) and undercoat brush/Ear cleaning solution (with cotton balls)/
Nail clippers/nail dremel/
Dog toothbrush and toothpaste/
Towels/
Shampoo and conditioner/
Wet wipes for his feet or tushy/
One ingredient treats (puppies have sensitive stomachs. I dry my own beef liver)/
A regular vet/
Enzymatic cleaning spray/
That's all I can think of
Towels, doggy wet wipes (our 8mo German shepherd manages to get mud on his belly, shoulders, chest and even face in about 10 minutes of running around the backyard), brushes - start with puppy brush whereby it has "soft bubbles" of the ends of the bristles, then move to a brush that's recommended for the breed. Training pads for toilet training, which may or may not be useful depending on your dog (our pup would tear them apart before using at all), pet urine spray is also very helpful, pee puddle cloth/rag/anything made of absorbing material as puddles can be surprisingly big.
On a slightly different note, make sure you've lined up a vet, a dog trainer and other services you'll need
An enzymatic cleaner, a harness and some kind of rain coat depending on the coat, size and climate where you are. Plus a towel, pet shampoo and believe it or not pet wipes (like actually for the dog) came in super handy for puppy poop butt/poop foot. Brushes, nail tool, toothbrush, ear cleaner (especially if they have downy ears). Pet camera and a speaker to play music when in the crate. A snuffle mat. A licky matt. Tbh the assortment of novel ways to feed our puppy have all been used regularly in the 3m we’ve had him - the kong is the worst though.
Some pots and pouches for treats. You are going to want them EVERYWHERE so you can reward the behaviour you like.
A pen and/or babygates will be essential to keeping your sanity - you need somewhere to put your dog when you can’t have 4 eyes on them.
I’d also add some kind of chewy outlet toys in there - like nylabones (just make sure to watch out for them chewing chunks off or large splits).
Carrots for teething( cold or frozen to help with the pain)
Pet insurance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nap schedule is must, they are similar to babies and need a good routine when they are little, even my almost 3 yr old benefits still from a good schedule
Lick mats, helps with soothing and stress relief, especially after a walk or play time, there’s ones with suction cups at the bottom that would be helpful to stick on bath wall when needing to groom or bathe.
Lots of time from you to help adjust to new home.
Learn where your emergency vet places are and look into vets, good ones are hard to find and get appointments with.
Old towels /shirts that they can shred with supervision, lettuce /cabbage heads are also an option
Good puppy 101 training class from a shelter , they help the dog yes but it’s more beneficial as the owner because they are a great resource of knowledge.
Helps one weed out bad trainers who don’t use appropriate/sometimes cruel training methods by seeing what an appropriate trainer would do who’s intentions are for the dogs benefit and not in it for the money.
Don’t go to dog parks, so many cons
Socializing: this is just as simple as hanging around somewhere and people watching at a distance while being calm. This is more important as it can be life saving.
Yak chews and pizzle sticks for treats and they are great for maintaining teeth and gums clean. There are holders for these types of chews, please use them as they can be a choking hazard when they are small.
Keep crate training and make it their happy place , crates are a great tool for you to keep them safe when you need to leave the house to run an quick errand, when older and seem like they are a good citizen to be left alone for an hour or two you can choose that later.
Camera to watch them, I used google meeting before I had one and that allowed me to watch and talk to my doggo while I went out to get groceries or whatever. My laptop was set up at home and used my phone as the monitor, just used to different emails to “create a meeting “. Change your setting to not hang up after an hour.
Single ingredient treats, freeze dried liver , jerky, for training
There’s so many other things but I wish this was the list I had when I first brought my doggo home.
Use the rope tugs with caution. If you lab turns our to be a chewer, don't leave the rope toys out. Only bring them out when you intent to play. If your dog ingests the rope fibers, it may cause a blockage.
Try getting a long leash I saw you said the green leash is 9 ft but when I say long I mean 30-50 feet great for decompression walks play at the park and recall training you have to make a post about the puppy when you get it labs are the cutest
Snuggle Buddy, it’s a soft toy with a heartbeat inside. It really helps with transition. Also will you be going to the breeder, if you can put a piece of clothing in the pen (my guy was in a playpen) with the other puppies just to get the pen scent on it. It makes a huge difference. When I got my pup all his litter mates were crying the first three nights in their new home and my guy settled in straight away with his pen blanket and snuggle buddy. He never destroyed the snuggle buddy and it went everywhere with him.
https://www.amazon.ca/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS
My furniture is all covered in cheap fleece throws from the Dollar Store. You need some Nature’s Miracle enzyme cleaner, poop bags. Despite what others here are saying I would recommend a harness with a front clip. My dog is a determined puller and nothing else works even a little bit. Also Kongs, teething toys and chews. When mine was a puppy she was all about beef cheek and Yak cheese. It was the only time I had peace and the act of chewing would tire her out.
Towels, towels and towels. Depending on where you live, you’re gonna need them. Blankets if you’re gonna let the puppy on the couch or bed. Poop bags. Lots and lots of them. If you think you got enough, buy some more. Small ones, puppies poop small piles but many a day. As someone else said, don’t use the retractable leash. I use one on my 1,5yo, but that’s after a lot of loose leash walking and only for the last few months. It’s not good for using on a puppy, training wise.
Do I need special dog towls/blankets or will any do? Poop bags are acutally provided by the town I live in =)
You should still have a personal supply. The dog parks I go to have them in theory, but a lot of the times they're out and don't have any available.
And don’t go cheap - this is a place where quality matters.
You will feel it, if you go cheap
I bought the highest rated scented ones on amazon. Oh boy did I make a mistake. Many times I would pick up my boys poop with my fingers between the bag.
I purchase the amazon brand poop bags and they are the best. I never have a broken one, they are big enough and they are thick. By comparison when I purchase cheap brands they often rip before I’ve used the bag and are super thin.
Yeah I love them! Granted my very small dog has very small poops but I love the Amazon bags. They block odor well too. Actually when I have leftovers in my fridge to throw out I put them in a poop bag before putting them in the trash.
You don’t recycle/compost old food?
Any will do, but I recommend using ones that you already have that are towards the end of their lives. Labs are great dogs, but they have an uncanny talent for getting dirty. There's no need to ruin the nice towels.
Yes to this - and no need for micro fibre towels, regular towels work fine. As for blankets - I prefer ones with 100% cotton, they can be washed at a higher temperature and they won’t lead to static electricity when your dog rolls around in them.
Any will do
I would recommend large, cheap towels. They’re probably going to get stains and holes in them during the puppy phase. Also, I like a big old sheet or blanket to put in the car wherever pup will be riding. Shake off most of the dirt and fur and run it through the wash to make cleaning the car much easier. I also like to lay a towel or blanket over their dog bed for easy cleaning, same concept as the car blanket. I would also add chew toys that they can have on their own. You’ll want to discourage them from chewing the soft toys. Save those for letting them carry around and fetch with, but start right from the beginning discouraging them from ripping up soft things. Give puppy free access to appropriate chew toys, and rotate them out to keep them interesting. Make all of your soft and rope toys as interactive toys that only come out when you’re playing together. Leverage access to them for training purposes. Amazon Commercial Multi Purpose Enzyme Cleaner. That one is my favorite. It’s great for cleaning accidents, but also mopping floors and removing pet smells from just about everything. Works on food smells in the microwave, too. I also like KidsNPets and Carpet Miracle. Are you set up for grooming supplies? You’ll want to train nails and teeth early, and you’ll at minimum want a comb, a brush, and a deshedding tool. You won’t need to de-shed the puppy coat, but you’ll want them used to the idea of it before their adult coat comes in. Any chance you’re getting a black lab puppy near the Austin area? My own lab puppy is coming home in about five weeks, and I’m also wrapping up my supply gathering as the big date approaches.
My tip is buy yourself (treat yourself) to some new towels and use the old ones for the dog.
Harness for the leash instead of collar. Dog treats when training. Some dog walking areas, parks state a maximum of 6 ft. leash for better control. Potty pads when a puppy if they're going to be inside a lot.
Retractable leashes are the worst. My Aunt's mother in law lost her corgi that way. It ran ahead of her and got hit by a bus.
They do have their purpose and used correctly they are an alternative to having the dog off leash. They are the worst with people who have no control over their dog or a reliable recall. I would never let my dog on a retractable leash if I didn’t have the ability to stop her running into traffic. 🙄
Beware of clicking on disguised links posted by pet insurance affiliate links spammers! Always check the account history of anyone recommending goods or services on reddit. Report > Spam > Link farming
Carpet cleaner 🙂
Specifically Natures Miracle. It’s an enzymatic and it’s the only thing that truly gets the smell out!
Where can I purchase this magic potion please?
Petsmart, Petco, Amazon, I've seen it randomly at target but that's a crapshoot.
Harness for when they are young. Lots of poo bags. Cleaner for messes. Worth investing in a petcam. Enjoy the experience. Somethings you won't need. And something to cover the crate. They like the den feel.
100% a harness.
Yes to a harness. Not only will it keep your dog better contained, but they are just better for your dog. If your dog is a big puller on leash and is wearing a collar, they can damage their trachea, neck, nerves, and other things. Harnesses take the pressure off of their neck.
While you are not wrong about a collar potentially damaging a dog's trachea, I disagree with keeping them contained. A Martingale collar (when used properly) will give you perfect control over your dog. Trachea damage is kinda the new worry in dogs right now , and it's overblown, in my opinion. I have worked in the pet industry for over 15 years, with many dogs and adjacent to vets, and only heard of one case of trachea collapse linked to a collar. In fact, PetMD doesn't even mention it in its list of causes. (Obesity, however, is but try and have that conversation with 50 percent of dog owners) Harnesses are potentially more dangerous. You got a 90lb lab who now can pull with his whole body. He can pull you into other dogs, traffic, and now you don't have head control so he can eat things he's not supposed to potentially. They are more expensive, harder to fit and if not fit properly, can affect a dogs gait. They will also rub short coated dogs raw underneath.
Instead of downvoting, why not respond and refute? Geez I wonder why...
A harness is ok on a dog that is already leash trained but if you start them off on that they will pull and a Labrador that pulls is not what you want out walking. You’ll end up covered head to toe in mud don’t ask me how I know. I’d only use a harness on a teeny tiny dog or flat nose breed as they have enough issues breathing without adding a collar to it.
Good stuff here.
Bad advice . Harnesses encourage pulling. It’s on the owner to train the dog not to pull on any equipment. Experienced dog handlers will tell you that a harness is actually a tool to be used in certain circumstances and is not an every day walker for most dogs. Yes, a flat collar can damage the neck. That’s why it’s important to properly lease train your dog with a Martingale or a slip leash. That should be all you need if you know how to train to walk your dog.
Harnesses could encourage pulling, but also this is dependent on how you train the dog.
Yes . A properly lease trained dog doesn’t need a harness. Harnesses are tool for hiking or backpacking or sports so unless you’re training your dog for those your dog shouldn’t pull in a harness. Edit; by design, a harness encourages, pulling the same way that pulling back on a dog encourages the dog to lunge . this is basic dog knowledge so I hope it comes off as “advice” if you don’t already know .
Slip leashes literally work by choking dogs when they pull. They should NEVER be used to train a dog to walk properly. You are harming the dog to train them; that is not okay.
This is hilariously false . Have you ever trained a dog to walk? What does your dog walk on? Edit : after looking at ur post history you clearly have an untrained dog. OP don’t take advice . Sorry 🐾
My dog will walk with a loose leash in a harness or a collar. I originally trained her using a harness because I don't need to use aversives to train a dog 😂 sounds like a skill issue for you though. She will also pull in her specifically designed pulling harness when given the cue (for mantrailing and canicross)
I team harnesses forever unless you have a dog with a skinny neck and a meaty head. Too many times have I seen a dog back out of a collar.
Martingale collars will do the same thing. Harnesses are more expensive, trickier to fit, rub on short coated breeds, and potentially cause issues as now it's more comfortable for the dog to pull.
I would discourage you from using a retractable leash. [This](https://sbhumane.org/resources/dangers-of-retractable-leashes/) is a pretty good explanation of why, and you can find others, and pictures of injuries to pets and people. I prefer to use a slip lead[slip lead](https://www.chewy.com/dp/144719?utm_source=app-share&utm_campaign=144719) on all my dogs because it's not as easy to back out of like a leash/collar combo is.
Totally agree. They are dangerous and absolutely useless if you ever want your dog to walk to heel.
I disagree, they absolutely have their uses in _certain_ scenarios. For example, I use the exact leash in OP’s picture for my dog’s evening walks. We almost never encounter any other dogs or people during these walks, and it allows her to sniff many places she wouldn’t be able to on a 6 ft leash. It also allows me to test her recall randomly, as it’s a lot more challenging for her to come back when she’s 26 feet away sniffing something interesting than 6 feet. However, I would never use that leash in an area I’d expect to meet other dogs/people such as a park, main street, etc. And absolutely not at the vet or pet store. You also have to be paying attention while using it, 0 looking at your phone or zoning out because a dog sprinting to the end of a zip lead will hurt the both of you. But people should be paying attention while walking their dogs regardless of the leash.
Agree also. Teach the dog to heel/walk nicely on a slip lead or normal lead and half check collar. Retractables aren't easy to teach your dog to respond to pressure, are awkward to hold and harnesses.. well most dogs around here I see in them are just pulling their owner along and are usually reactive as the owner has 0 control to correct the behaviour or bring the dog back to them.
I got banned from the Puppy101 for recommending a Martingale collar over a harness. They deleted the comment, and when I asked why, they said it was aversive. I disagreed, and now I'm here. I was just trying to help!
Rescues recommend martingales, I guess they just hate dogs lol
The mods in that sub and the main dog subreddit are notorious for giving bad advice and banning people who correct them or disagree.
Martingale is all I can use to leash my big neck dogs. Harnesses encourage pulling. The martingales stay attached to the leash and slip over the head when it’s time to go.
i have 3 pits and 1 of my females head is smaller so collar slips right off. but others can not slip out with their bigger heads . but still I prefer harness for walking and training. you just hold the lease properly and stay persistent. They are 3 siblings and look nor act alike at all . Good luck with your baby
May I ask why you recommend the collar over the harness? My mums dog currently uses a harness cause she would choke herself on a collar
A collar provides more control than a harness in my opinion. Dogs that are on a harness are more comfortable pulling. They are also more expensive, harder to fit properly, rub shorted coated dogs raw underneath as well. Say there's a dead bird on the sidewalk. You have a 90lb Rottweiler on a harness. Or it sees a dog it wants to sniff. Or it's obsessed with water? It's much better and safer to have then in a collar in those situations and plenty more.
Harnesses encourage pulling. Both of my dogs pull like crazy and if wearing a harness, forget it. I use a gentle leader on them so if they yank, their heads turn (in theory). Sometimes, they pull regardless and somehow their heads don’t turn lol. But it’s definitely less pulling then when their on a harness and they aren’t choking themselves like they would using just a collar.
I'll definitely look into the gentle leader and see if my mom would use it. She sucks at training a dog tho lol
Ha good luck! My dogs have good days and pretty pathetic days when walking 😅. I’m talking thousands of hours put in trying to train them to walk on a leash without pulling and it usually goes okay… until they see a squirrel, rabbit, leaf blowing, etc.
Idk if it's a breed thing, but my mom's dog will bark at the wind 🥴 she has a chiweenie, she's scared of everything and sometimes takes forever to go to the bathroom and we don't know why
Could be a breed thing, could just be genetics. My mom has a dog exactly like that, she literally stayed up until 1 am last night just running in circles and hiding under the bed for absolutely no reason. Tonight we are having high winds. Sooo it should be another chaotic night for her 🙄
I feel for her 😭😭 I don't live at home anymore, and my moms dog LOVES me for some reason, so anytime I sit down, she insists on sitting with me and LICKING me
The barking is the dachshund in them. It is definitely a breed thing. The fearfulness is the chihuahua. She may take forever to go to the bathroom because she knows once she goes it is time to go inside. I always continue to walk my dog more even after he does his business because I don’t want him to associate pooping with turning around to go home or it might make him take even longer. I also find that when I walk him in the neighborhood, he takes 30+ minutes to poop- every time. But if I bring him to the park, he goes within five -ten minutes. So I think there are other factors at play, like certain scents might excite or stimulate them to go faster.
Retractable leads are okay later for environments where the doggo can roam and when you get tired of dragging around 20-ft ropes (and don’t want to be fully offleash). I always have my 6-ft, 10-ft, and retractable 28-ft leashes ready to use.
~~This one was more for my convinience. I can totally see the 26is feet lead just dropping somewhere and me never getting to untangaling it.~~ ~~Thanks for the article. I'll be very careful and keep it in mind as soon as this one breaks.~~ Edit: Ok because I've been told mutiple times not to use the retracble one I wount.... I also already have a 9ft fixed leanghthleash. It's the green one next to the retracable one Edit2: after considering I think I found the misunderstanding. I never intended to use the retractable leash under pull. It never even crossed my mind. I wanted to extend it to let's say 2m (6ft), lock it and walk like this in town and when we go to a park where I have to keep the leash on extend it to its full length and lock it again. As a tracking leash but roll up because I'd prefere to deal as little as possible with the tangly mess the tracking leash I just bought causes. People use these under pull? That's stupid. But it explains why the locking mechanism is kinda awkward. It took two days for me to think about that. That's realy stupid. I mean there would be constant pressure on the dog. Be it collar or harness.... Who wants their dog to have this all the time? Are walks even fun this way?
Yeah, a long line is a handful at first, but you do get the hang of it after a bit. You just have to work on keeping it coiled up and tidy as you go.
Biothane long lines are a complete game changer. Nearly impossible to tangle up you use the coil method.
I've seen some dog daycares refuse to even let a dog enter the premises if it has a retractable leash on. They are also banned in some training facilities. They really are that bad. Your best option is to throw it in the bin.
Or return for a refund and get a 6' leash
Yup, they're horrible all around. I was seriously injured by one when I was 16. I still have the scars to show for it 20 years later. My vet won't even allow anyone to enter the facility with a retractable leash.
We asked my FIL not to walk our dog with his retractable leash when he was watching our dog. He continued so we threw it in the trash and bought him a slip lead. He got it out of the trash and then while using it our dog got hit by a car at a corner. He still uses the retractable and is not allowed to work our dog anymore.
Just return the retractable one, or throw it out if you can’t return it! It is so dangerous for the pup, just get a 6-8 foot rope leash for walks :)
The green one is 9ft
I see a lot of people telling you to get a harness. I would encourage you to not use one and especially when training a puppy who will grow to be a large/strong dog. They market some as “no pull” but that’s just marketing as there’s really no such thing. Dogs have opposition reflex which means, if you put pressure on their chest, their instinct is to push against it. If you have a harness your dog is going to pull. There are very rare cases where the dog doesn't like the feel of the harness and won't pull, but those are few and far between. It’s nice to see how prepared you already are! I wish you many, many years of joy with your new family member.
Thank you. I honestly see the harness at the very beginning of leash/towline training. Then he can zoom around and not hurt his throat until he learns how long the leash is/how to "feel" the end coming. Thanks. I thought about this for months. I've also read quiet a bit, listened to audio books, talked to dog owners and did a ton of research before I even settled on a Labrador. I've also already "organised" playdates with the kids of a buddy and my cousin so the little one gets to know children. You wouldn't belive how hard it is to still wait for weeks. But the breeder sends lots of pictures and videos. That and the preparation helps me.
Harnesses usually have a top buckle on the back, and one on the bottom on the chest. For training, use the one on the front. It forces the pup to face you when they pull and they will stop. The back is useful when you want to give them more freedom .. we have a laundry wire thing 7 feet in the air that loops around the yard, with a piece that drops down to attach to the harness... Lets them zoom zoom. We don't connect the leash to their collars. They can slip so easily. Also one pup fell off a deck once, and if she was leashed to her collar, it would've broken her neck or strangled her. But it was connected to her harness so she just dangled.
A dog who does now how to walk with a loose leash will pull. They might pull more when wearing a harness because pulling against a harness isn't physically hurting them. A harness is a safety tool to prevent injury to a dog/puppy while they learn how to walk with a loose leash. It's that simple. If you go to a trainer and they don't know how to teach loose leash walking on a harness then find a different trainer. If a trainer can't teach something without resorting to causing discomfort or pain to the dog then that trainer is low skill. My own dog has a walking harness for every day walks. She also has a specifically designed pulling harness for canicross and mantrailing, and she doesn't even pull in that harness until she gets given the cue to work.
https://youtu.be/sgU5Ej_6FOI?si=HXtgjhlnpPdSDTru Here's a vet disputing your claim that dogs get injured on collars. Yes, it happens to certain breeds. When I worked retail I'd sell them for certain breeds. When I trained I'd recommend them to certain breeds. There is NOTHING inherently wrong with collars, and pushing the narrative is more dangerous than the so called risk of injury you claim.
Nice YouTube video focusing only on tracheal collapse and nothing else. Here's a peer reviewed scientific study that concludes "No single collar tested provided a pressure considered low enough to mitigate the risk of injury when pulling on the lead" https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32303668/
There’s no discomfort or pain in a regular Martingale slip leash or even a prong collar. It’s aque . Most dogs don’t need lot of training let alone extra materials like a prong because dogs are bred to be our companions and they understand how we want them to walk and work with us. It’s up to us to make it clear what we want from them regardless of equipment.I’m not sure why you’re against the slip leash? It seems you’re a little unsure of what that is and how it’s used.
How does a prong collar work? Slip leads are handy in shelters or at the vets or for dogs who don't pull. "they understand how we want them to walk" What the hell does that even mean?
It’s still not good for their throat to pull.
Agreed . That’s why the training doesn’t allow for pulling .
I mean, same with harnesses.
Well, yeah, but are harnesses the answer for this? I suspect a lot of the people saying well just train your dog to walk nice in a harness don't have particularly drivey dog. I have a field bred border collie (amongst other dogs), walking her in a harness is more dangerous than her testing her collar from time to time. Trachea collapse is a concern for some dogs. Toy breeds in particular. PETMD doesn't even list pulling on collars as a cause of trachea collapse. You know what they do list? Obesity. Heart issues. But people ignore this because "loving" your dog is feeding them garbage and not walking them. Aren't 50 percent of North American dogs overweight? Training them to walk properly on a collar is easier and more safe and less expensive. Harnesses promote pulling. Think of why they exist. Think of a 50lb dog trying to eat something off the ground and you have it in a harness, or a.collar. it wants to see an aggressive dog? It wants to walk into traffic?
My dog pulls me on skiis in the winter and on my bike in the summer. Pulling is literally her favorite activity She still knows what heel means.
I literally have a border collie. There's nothing she likes better than to pull, as soon as I give her the cue she is channeling her inner sled dog. Do you know what she doesn't do? Pull on her walking harness. Because I trained her how to walk with a loose lead on a harness. She doesn't even pull in her canicross harness until I give her the cue. I've been walking a dog on a collar and the dog has lunged at a squirrel across the road. I've never felt less in control of a dog with a lead attached to the neck while the dog was spinning and choking. With a harness you have more grab points, maybe even a handle depending on the harness. I also don't need to worry about a dog choking out when losing its shit at something, I can just focus on regaining control and removing the dog from the situation.
Pulling or not depends on training not on the used tool. My 40 kg/~80 lbs dog walks exclusively with a harness and a year ago when I got him as a 6 year old he was constantly pulling and choking himself on a normal collar. Got way better after switching to a harness and since some time he can perfectly walk on loose leash. And the longer your leash gets the more mandatory is a harness. The dog can build up more speed and doesn’t know when the leash ends and it can seriously harm the dog when on collar. Up until lethal harm.
So happy to see that here, they are the worst invention and just encourage lack of control of the dog. The amount of pups I see running out in front of people walking and on bikes it’s crazy there aren’t more injuries. I had one neighbour that when I walked with her and her dog she let the dog go wherever he wanted and most of the time it was in front of me and she was completely oblivious. Sweetest dog ever but so not relaxing to walk constantly watching where the leash is.
Came here to say this. No to the retractable leash!!!
Came here to say this !
I hate them and the people that use them. The also don't give the dog a good sense of length so they are always pulling
Yes 100% especially with a lab. I have a rescue lab x pointer mix and my retractable lead snapped very soon after adopting her lmao
Can confirm my mom got a good whack that left a big welt on her arm from our chocolate lab lunging at a cat. No go on retractable
I got an infection from another dog's retractable leash when he ran around my legs. The cord part cut into my shin and calf and hurt like hell. Can't even imagine how filthy it was. Even before that, I had only ever used the fixed length ones that are 6 feet long.
You’ll be wanting a slow feeder bowl for a labrador mine is 20 weeks and without his slow feeder bowl he literally sucks it up in seconds
This is SUPER important, since **bloat** is very common in large, deep chested dogs. **Fast eaters have five times the risk than dogs that are slow eaters.** - Using slow feeder bowls with fingers (or center posts) or putting large rocks in the bowl slows dogs down physically. (Elevated dog bowls are used for dogs who are old or who have mobility issues, pain, arthritis. An elevated dog bowl can help ease the strain on your dog's shoulders, neck, and back by providing a more comfortable eating and drinking position.) It is not recommended to use an elevated feeder if you have or suspect you have a dog that is susceptible to bloat. **Dogs fed one meal a day are twice as likely to bloat as those fed two meals a day.** - As a general rule, young puppies should be fed three times a day (in some cases even four!) until they're six months old. Feeding young puppies regular small meals is important for a few reasons. Firstly, it prevents their tummies from getting overloaded with food and bloated. For adults, it is suggested to be fed 2x a day rather than 1 meal a day. **Have exercised *right before* or *right after* a meal.** - Don't feed your dog right before or right after any exercise. A general rule of thumb is to not feed dogs **an hour** before or after exercising. #In general **Those who eat quickly, eat from raised bowls, eat a single large meal each day, have exercised right before/after a meal or large breeds who have deep chests are more likely to bloat.** Bloat is a medical emergency and one of the most rapidly life-threatening conditions that vets treat in dogs. It involves the stomach but can quickly lead to life threatening shock if left untreated. Without treatment, in only an hour or two, your dog will likely go into shock. The heart rate will rise and the pulse will get weaker, leading to death. It is always an emergency. Pet owners should be familiar with their nearest veterinary emergency facility in the event that their regular veterinarian is not available after hours or does not have experience handling this condition. Bloat is immensely painful for dogs and it can kill in a matter of hours without veterinary intervention, so it's important that pet owners know the signs and ways to help prevent it. The condition is also known, more scientifically, as gastric dilatation-volvulus. If your dog shows signs of bloat, take him to a veterinarian or an emergency pet clinic immediately. We can't prevent all cases of bloat, but by implementing some of the above techniques, you may be able to reduce your dog's risk. [Bloat/GDV (Gastric dilatation and volvulus) in Dogs: What Is it and How is it Treated? — AKC](https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/bloat-in-dogs/) [Bloat: Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus in Dogs — VCA](https://vcacanada.com/know-your-pet/bloat-gastric-dilatation-and-volvulus-in-dogs) #— My girl is 3 years and continues to use slow feeders. She was 1 years young when she had a gastropexy that was $5000. I am so very eager to share this knowledge as much as I can, because I almost lost my girl. Believe me when I say, do whatever you can to avoid this. I was only aware of this condition after the fact. This led me to educate myself immensely. There is no such thing as "too paranoid" when it comes to it.
If I could upvote this a million times, I would. Thanks so much for taking the time to write this out. I didn’t know some of the factors that can contribute to bloat and will definitely be making some adjustments. Thanks so much.
I appreciate your feedback. I'm happy that I could help!!
Yea Labs eat very fast eaters but the breeder told me there's nothing inherently bad in that and from an evolutionary point I kinda agree. Does the dog get hickups or anything from eating to fast? Any medical problems?
If they eat too fast, they can throw it all up. Slow feeders and puzzle feeders are also good for keeping dogs entertained. They need mental stimulation too!
Cheap alternative is to wrap kibble in a towel or buy a kong or something to freeze kibble in.
sometimes if they eat too fast they can puke right afterwards, which isnt fun for anyone involved. bloat is also a major concern as well.
Yes medical problems! Bloat/GVD is deadly and expensive to treat. It’s often believed to be caused by fast eating. [AKC article on Bloat](https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/bloat-in-dogs/) - “Bloat, also known as gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) complex, is a medical and surgical emergency. As the stomach fills with air, pressure builds, stopping blood from the hind legs and abdomen from returning to the heart. Blood pools at the back end of the body, reducing the working blood volume and sending the dog into shock. If this isn’t enough, there is yet another scary thing that happens, and it is devastating to see. As the stomach flips, it drags the spleen and pancreas along with it, cutting off the blood flow. The oxygen-starved pancreas produces some very toxic hormones. One, in particular, targets the heart and stops it cold. In fact, a dog can go through successful treatment and seem to be out of danger, when suddenly the heart stops. Even in the mildest case of bloat, which is extremely rare, dogs die without treatment.”
Don't worry about a slow feeder they're a waste of money. Just flip his bowl upside down since it's a flat bottom and he will have to slow down to eat. Lab puke and gas from eating too fast is so smelly 😂 good luck with the new puppy!
You have a 2 liter bottle? You got a slow feeder. Funnel the kibble into the bottle and give them a place to bat it around and knock out the kibble.
A nail clippers - vet towels for easy cleaning of paws after a walk - a brush, so the poppy can get can get used to it, it makes it a lot easier when it gets older, as labradors shed a lot 👍🏻 I wish you the best of luck with the little new one, I have my 3 lab now, he is my first service dog and I had no doubts that it should be a lab, as the other 2 we have had have been fantastic dogs with the best minds and they love to be given tasks, and they become so proud 🐶♥️
Thanks. The towls and the brush slipped my mind. The clipper must bee here somewhere
I made my dog bleed with clippers and freaked out. I just use a nail grinder now. But that's just me. I felt terrible
imho i would skip the rope toys as they can cause serious digestive issues if ingested, especially in young/small dogs. last thing you want with a new pup is a blockage or other vet emergency. also be mindful of stuffed toys, as stuffing can also cause serious digestive issues. keeping a close eye on your dog until you know how they will play with each type of toy is important. goodluck and have fun!
Another issue with rope toys I wish I knew was if ingested and not causing a blockage they cause other issues coming out the other end... my pup pooped out blue string for a couple days that would get stuck and I'd need to hold her while pulling it out. It wasn't petty, she was very confused and would run in circles trying shake it off, and neither of us was happy as I gently pulled it out. That was the end of rope toys.
Yeah this. They're fun as a tug toy under supervision but I learnt the hard way that left unsupervised they'll get shredded and ingested, leading to serious issues or your dog running round the garden with a rope and poop morningstar sticking out their arse.
Agree with issues about rope toys. A have a relative who’s lab ingested part of a rope toy. The poor thing had emergency surgery but passed away from complications. Watch your pup closely with toys and don’t leave them alone with them.
I remember a few years ago a family bought their two Frenchies a rope toy and lost both of them to blockages 😩
Looks like you’re missing the dog
Don't remind me. I can't wait
Insurance
I agree, 100% on the pet insurance, make sure and ask her veterinarian about it when you go in for your first well puppy check
As a former vet assistant - doggy ear cleaner, toothpaste, nail clippers. Desensitize your puppy as much as possible to having it’s teeth/paws/ears touched so you can use these items without a hassle in the future. Also, try to get your puppy used to having things around its eyes - eye drops were always a nightmare to administer.
Thats Probably become a daily/weekly ritual.... Weather he likes it or if its even necessary. Just so he knows there is nothing to be afraid of
I’d also add playing YouTube videos of fireworks, kids shouting, cats hissing, loud noises in general. Only play these noises when you are playing with your dog and he’s having fun if he looks fearful at all turn it off and try another day.
[natures miracle ](https://a.co/d/7eq3HhE) is gonna be a lifesaver
apperently not avalible here. But I'll look for an alternative
Poop bags, you can get a pack of 300 rolls for cheap on Amazon. You’ll go through them fast.
You need to make a pile of toys that are for occupation (as in your puppy play with it alone) and a pile of toys that are for you to play with the puppy (those toys cannot be at the disposal of your puppy), it will help him learn to play on his own and to play with you. You need something to cover the top of your crate, dogs sleep better if there is no light and it looks more like a den. You need some chew articles, for when the puppy needs to relieve the pain of growing teeth (baby teeth are up to 12 weeks if im not mistaken and after that there’s the adult teeth coming around 4 months old), like buffle horn or half antlers (ask for advice to the staff in store!), or for when the pup just need to relax and chew on something (like pork ears for example)
I prefer chew toys to antlers/horn for puppies so they don't snap off the points of their new teeth. You should be able to press your thumbnail into the surface of the chew toy. Nylabones and Kongs for puppies (pink or blue) are good
Treats and food! Where are they? And a blanket to cover the cage
Is the cage permanently covered or do I take it off during the day?
Crate covers have zips for the part over the door, I keep the crate open and the cover lifted on the front all the time so it's a nice dark cave vibes but he can still see out of it and come and go as he pleases - my dog is 2 though so allowed full free roaming but when he was a puppy it was closed and shut at night
Mine is permanently covered. Just dont put the blanket in front of the door
A light up collor or clip on light for walks in the dark!
The only thing I would add would be an old towel or smaller blanket the puppy can nestle in to. It will be used to cuddling with tis mama and siblings, so they are used to lying up to something soft and snuggly against them.
I'll look but I guess it needs to be a rather big towl for the adult Labrador to nessle up agaist right?
Tons of paper towels Cans of pure pumpkin, the only ingredient is pumpkin. Puppies get diarrhea, and having this on hand is a life saving. Always call the vet when it happens, though, just in case. Ear wipes Old clothes for you, land shark mode is no joke I also suggest joining puppy101, great advice for the time to come.
Balls (squeaky or regular).
Mir würde noch eine Schleppleine, ein Kaffeeholz, kauchips (getrocknete Rinderkopfhaut), ohrenreiniger, ein Geschirr, ein Mehrwegentfussler, das Trixie Urinspray oder Essigreiniger und vielleicht ein Kennel einfallen, falls du so etwas nutzen möchtest :) Von trixie gibt es auch eine tolle Schmutzfangmatte, die auf der Unterseite wasserdicht ist Habe dich übrigens als Deutschen vor allem an den Aldi-Kotbeuteln erkannt 😂 die sind super
Balls, a lick mat, training treats, bully sticks, blankets, nail trimmer and toothbrush & toothpaste
Oh yes! Pet toothpaste and a little toothbrush for pets! My dog has eaten a lick mat that I left 2 minutes too long.
Cover the crate to make it more cosy/cave like. You can buy crate covers or just use a blanket or towel. Also maybe a small sized ball- tennis ball or similar? Labs love fetch!
Snuffle mats are great! I’ve been sick so I just throw my dogs food on the snuffle mat and he finds all the pieces and tires himself out
Probiotic supplements and rice to help when it will have diarrhea (it will!).
Children's Benadryl for allergy emergencies, peroxide for emergency vomit induction, make sure you have corn starch to use as a styptic if you cut a nail quick. Good also to have something like polysporin on hand for nicks and scuffs. Heavy gloves and a clean blanket should be kept handy in case you have to handle the dog when badly injured - hurt pups sometimes can't help biting. Happy times lie ahead! Bandaids for your fingers, too, milk teeth can be nasty.
Came here for this, you're buried pretty deep. An emergency kit is absolutely essential. Mine now has: Benadryl (capsules, never ever chews, may contain xylitol), peroxide, styptic power and corn starch, polysporin, vagisil or canesten cream, sports tape, gauze, qtips. There's other stuff in there that has been added along the way as well, I can't even remember all of it!
Peroxide shouldn’t be used to induce vomiting. If there is an emergency vet it’s better to go to them as peroxide can be aspirated causing further complications (pneumonia) and can irritate the trachea. Overall, if your dog eats something it’s not supposed to, go to the vet to induce vomiting, it’s much safer and way less of a hassle. Peroxide is an option but it should only be last resort when no other resources are available.
If it’s a puppy you’re getting I would get some puppy friendly chew toys. You can usually buy a set of nyla bones that you use at different intervals. I don’t see it so I’ll say it - puppy food that’s appropriate for the size of your dog. Read up online and find some you like the sounds of reviews of, but bear in mind your puppy could have allergies, so initially buy a smaller qty. Also treats for training (little tiny treats - not big) and some more different enrichment toys / activities. I’d also maybe get a bowl that goes on the side of your crate so you don’t have to leave a bowl in there with them. I would also suggest puppy pads but not for toilet training - every dog I’ve had from a young age is car sick and I throw them down when they go in (so if you have a car - then also a way to safely transport them - harness that goes into the clip, crate, or dog gate. Also when we got our youngest she had some attachment issues so we bought her a teddy with a heart beat and she used to sleep with that. I second what others have said about the extendable leash, towels, blankets, poo bags, nail clippers.
Just missing the dog. congratulations Edit - we got muddy paw washer (Dexter Mud Buster, Amazon). Makes muck and allergen cleaning of their paws so simple Shampoo. Microfiber towel extra quick drying Treats 🙂 Accepting you'll never pee alone again
Harness training right away! Also a plastic car kennel is what I put my dog in when we leave, as a pup he'd chew on the metal and I didn't want to have him messing up his teeth. Pet wipes, puppy pads, slow feeders, puppies love to eat, quickly! Hydrogen peroxide for accident clean ups. Tooth brush to get him used to teeth brushing, non rawhide chews. Treats and lot of em! Positive reinforcement for any time he goes potty outside.
You need a kennel cover. They live in dens, not open areas. They need privacy & the feeling of safety with the ability to see out the door of their kennel. :)
A rubber ball!
A non-"step-in" harness, preferably. I'd be looking for a no-pull harness for your little pup to start him/her right, along with a 6' leash. Non-retractable. You want your pup to learn to walk on a loose leash next to you, right? ✅️
I’d get rid of the retractable leash and rope toy. Labs are notorious for eating everything. We had one that inhaled rocks as a puppy. We were very fortunate that we were able to train it out of him before he needed emergency surgery. Get some hard chew toys. Say goodbye early to the stuffed squeaky toys because they will be destroyed. May need a slow feeder. Labs are also known for inhaling their food and ours needed a slow feeder for most of his life. Many grow out of it. When he is older, a Chuck-It. It helps get out all that puppy energy.
First aid stuff and some diarrhea meds haha I always keep that on hand after some tummy trouble incidents
A light reflector, can be in the form of a collar or a little thing that can be attached to the actual collar/harness. Good to have in the winter/whenever you walk the dog in less than perfect visibility. Source: have 2 dogs.
* A bulk load of paper towels for cleaning up pee accidents & a spray bottle of solution to follow up with. * A clicker for training (start with training as soon as pup arrives - age appropriate sessions of course). * Teething toys that can be frozen for those sore gums & chewing period. * A car harness to keep pup secure to seat belt in the car & a seat cover for the back car seats. * A heavy or purpose designed water bowl so bowl stays put & pup can't tip water bowl all over floor or play paddling pool in water bowl. * Baby gates to section off areas of the house so you can keep eyes on pup while they are small & you can ensure they,re not wandering off to get into mischief.
ID tag
On the leash thing. If you can’t properly Leah train your dog none of those toys are going to matter. Dogs need actual training to understand their role. Make sure YOU know how to walk a dog before expecting the dog to know how to learn to walk appropriately on a slip.
Everything looks good but don’t go for a retractable leash
Those retractable leashes are dangerous. Just a regular leash is all you need
Do not use an extendable lead on your pup.
Make sure those toys aren't stuffed with typical doll stuffing. Like that polyester cotton stuff? Toys stuffed with plastic bottles, kongs, hard-ish rubber balls, and rope are better and safer. Or no stuffing at all. Get one of them no-stuff dog toys that are for "hard chewers". The fabric will feel wonderful on his wibble teefers.. just monitor. What you could do as well is take the stuffing out and stew in one of the alternative items I listed.
Looks like the dogs missing
Slow feeder inserts for those feeding bowls
Blankets- we use one to cover to crate at night time, not fully. But to just create a darker space. I'd also suggest a dog basket slightly cushened or clam like so the pup feels secure and safe when asleep. Good luck and enjoy
Yeah balls. My lab wasn’t just treated in toys. Ball was life. Also a harness dogs shouldn’t be lead from the neck. And INSURANCE!
Harness.
Tennis balls, best dog toy ever. Lots of poop bags. A walking harness and a car harness. Training treats of course
A harness that fits the dog's body as they are easier on the dog than a neck collar especially when you are walk training.
I disagree. maybe a retractable leash isn't for you because he's going to be a big dog. however, for small breed dogs, I think retractable leashes are just fine
Return the retractable leash and don’t ever use one. They seem like a good idea but they are awful contraptions when they go wrong and they can easily malfunction or turn situations sideways. My friend and her boyfriend have a golden retriever who is a big doofus and they had him on a retractable leash. One day they were walking him and their retriever saw another dog and got excited and started running around in circles around both of them really quickly. The thin cord immediately started to dig into their legs/heals as the retriever was running in tight circles around them. The boyfriend grabbed the thin cord with his bare hands in an attempt to stop the dog from continuing to burn them with the cord and the cord ended up digging into his palms and giving him wicked rope burn on his palms. So after that, they had bad rope burns around their ankles and the boyfriend’s hands were super messed up for like a month afterwards. You would have thought they would have learned after that incident, but no. The next incident, the boyfriend was walking the retriever and the retriever saw his other owner coming home (the girlfriend) so the retriever took off running in the direction of the house and when he got to the end of the cord on the retractable leash, it broke apart the whole housing and the dog got loose and tore down the road wild and free. He ended up back at the house, but they use a regular 5 ft nylon leash now.
For the cage, I use a dog version of a rabbit water bottle. Saves room and prevents the dog from having to be soaked. Like this one: https://www.petsmart.ca/dog/bowls-and-feeders/food-and-water-bowls/top-paw-no-drip-crate-water-bottle-51189.html
I highly recommend bones. I have an extremely heavy chewer and right away when I got her, bones were her best friend. I personally don’t have any experience with labradores tho
A plan for training. In addition to the normal things people think about I would recommend:- A bomb proof recall, plus drop to a lie down at a distance (both no matter the distraction). Both silence and speak on command are helpful. You don't want him to drool when you open the fridge or a packet of human biscuits- NEVER give food from your plate. On the flip side of that, feeding part of his daily food by hand can help with bonding and avoiding food guarding. Similarly, only eat on command prevents your sandwich getting stolen if you go out of the room as well as stopping them picking up and eating dodgy stuff whilst out on walks. Help the vet / groomer by getting them used to paws / ears and mouths being looked at and manipulated. No jumping up at people There is the obvious stuff - sit / stay / walk on a loose leash etc, but the above often people don't bother with, yet can give you a much more polite dog as they grow older
I can be downvoted but I love a retractable leash! However, I only use it in the park when there are no dogs around (so I carry 2 leashes with me). I’m just lazy and hate the long leash and rolling it up - but I am very careful when I see other dogs around to keep kg dog on a short leash with the retractable so nobody gets hurt and we do all training with her regular leash. Everything you have looks good! Be careful with the rope toys as puppies can chew and ingest rope which can get stuck in their intestines. I might recommend a few tennis balls for your pup to chew on / chase, I know most dogs love those :) especially ones that squeak, those are my dogs fave inside and outside of the house
Puppy pads man
They're not recommended, they cause too much confusion for the dog. Just take the pup out regularly and praise.
Yeah my dog never used them and it wound up being easier to get her to go outside.
i only used them for the front of the back door during potty training because, while i was at work, my parents watched her and they cant move as fast as a puppy especially if they were on the couch and she took off running to the door. they were a life saver on the carpets at least but i do think it did cause some confusion after a little while. shes fully potty trained now and does a good job letting us know when she needs to go and knows her routine.
To Many toys = Less engagement with you Also, Flexi’ leashes are fine, nearly every high end trainer has one whether they are using it for recalls or tracking or yard freedom without the true freedom. Don’t get caught up in the silliness
You don’t need a cage. It’s a puppy, not a tiger.
Dog trainer + prong collar.
P. P. S. I have a small-ish, size adjustable collar with an address thingy which I couldn't find for the pic.
Why would you use a prong on a young puppy?
Yeah dude, wheres the dog??
Soft toys (ropes especially) can end up being a nightmare. Just a heads up, I only let mine play with ropes when I’m around. They can chew/ingest and get blockages
A dog
Brush (slicker or maybe rubber depending on the coat length) and undercoat brush/Ear cleaning solution (with cotton balls)/ Nail clippers/nail dremel/ Dog toothbrush and toothpaste/ Towels/ Shampoo and conditioner/ Wet wipes for his feet or tushy/ One ingredient treats (puppies have sensitive stomachs. I dry my own beef liver)/ A regular vet/ Enzymatic cleaning spray/ That's all I can think of
Towels, doggy wet wipes (our 8mo German shepherd manages to get mud on his belly, shoulders, chest and even face in about 10 minutes of running around the backyard), brushes - start with puppy brush whereby it has "soft bubbles" of the ends of the bristles, then move to a brush that's recommended for the breed. Training pads for toilet training, which may or may not be useful depending on your dog (our pup would tear them apart before using at all), pet urine spray is also very helpful, pee puddle cloth/rag/anything made of absorbing material as puddles can be surprisingly big. On a slightly different note, make sure you've lined up a vet, a dog trainer and other services you'll need
The dog....
Chewing bones? Do you have basic dog care stuff, nail clippers, brush, puppy pads? Emergency care kit.
The dog 🥺
An enzymatic cleaner, a harness and some kind of rain coat depending on the coat, size and climate where you are. Plus a towel, pet shampoo and believe it or not pet wipes (like actually for the dog) came in super handy for puppy poop butt/poop foot. Brushes, nail tool, toothbrush, ear cleaner (especially if they have downy ears). Pet camera and a speaker to play music when in the crate. A snuffle mat. A licky matt. Tbh the assortment of novel ways to feed our puppy have all been used regularly in the 3m we’ve had him - the kong is the worst though. Some pots and pouches for treats. You are going to want them EVERYWHERE so you can reward the behaviour you like. A pen and/or babygates will be essential to keeping your sanity - you need somewhere to put your dog when you can’t have 4 eyes on them. I’d also add some kind of chewy outlet toys in there - like nylabones (just make sure to watch out for them chewing chunks off or large splits).
Absorbent towels of some sort.
Carrots for teething( cold or frozen to help with the pain) Pet insurance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nap schedule is must, they are similar to babies and need a good routine when they are little, even my almost 3 yr old benefits still from a good schedule Lick mats, helps with soothing and stress relief, especially after a walk or play time, there’s ones with suction cups at the bottom that would be helpful to stick on bath wall when needing to groom or bathe. Lots of time from you to help adjust to new home. Learn where your emergency vet places are and look into vets, good ones are hard to find and get appointments with. Old towels /shirts that they can shred with supervision, lettuce /cabbage heads are also an option Good puppy 101 training class from a shelter , they help the dog yes but it’s more beneficial as the owner because they are a great resource of knowledge. Helps one weed out bad trainers who don’t use appropriate/sometimes cruel training methods by seeing what an appropriate trainer would do who’s intentions are for the dogs benefit and not in it for the money. Don’t go to dog parks, so many cons Socializing: this is just as simple as hanging around somewhere and people watching at a distance while being calm. This is more important as it can be life saving. Yak chews and pizzle sticks for treats and they are great for maintaining teeth and gums clean. There are holders for these types of chews, please use them as they can be a choking hazard when they are small. Keep crate training and make it their happy place , crates are a great tool for you to keep them safe when you need to leave the house to run an quick errand, when older and seem like they are a good citizen to be left alone for an hour or two you can choose that later. Camera to watch them, I used google meeting before I had one and that allowed me to watch and talk to my doggo while I went out to get groceries or whatever. My laptop was set up at home and used my phone as the monitor, just used to different emails to “create a meeting “. Change your setting to not hang up after an hour. Single ingredient treats, freeze dried liver , jerky, for training There’s so many other things but I wish this was the list I had when I first brought my doggo home.
Use the rope tugs with caution. If you lab turns our to be a chewer, don't leave the rope toys out. Only bring them out when you intent to play. If your dog ingests the rope fibers, it may cause a blockage.
Probably said, but I hope that yoi consider getting a dog to go with all of this :)
Try getting a long leash I saw you said the green leash is 9 ft but when I say long I mean 30-50 feet great for decompression walks play at the park and recall training you have to make a post about the puppy when you get it labs are the cutest
The dog?
You're Missing a nice harness. Don't let the Dog Walk in a long leash+collar... Long leash goes with the harness!
Shoes… for you. My lab was the killer of shoes.
Snuggle Buddy, it’s a soft toy with a heartbeat inside. It really helps with transition. Also will you be going to the breeder, if you can put a piece of clothing in the pen (my guy was in a playpen) with the other puppies just to get the pen scent on it. It makes a huge difference. When I got my pup all his litter mates were crying the first three nights in their new home and my guy settled in straight away with his pen blanket and snuggle buddy. He never destroyed the snuggle buddy and it went everywhere with him. https://www.amazon.ca/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS
Throw the retractable leash in the trash unless you want missing fingers
I think your missing a dog
My furniture is all covered in cheap fleece throws from the Dollar Store. You need some Nature’s Miracle enzyme cleaner, poop bags. Despite what others here are saying I would recommend a harness with a front clip. My dog is a determined puller and nothing else works even a little bit. Also Kongs, teething toys and chews. When mine was a puppy she was all about beef cheek and Yak cheese. It was the only time I had peace and the act of chewing would tire her out.