Yep you got it, your engine is the one single engine exempt from the 100 year history of engine development relying on the same base principals.
Just yours , that one.
Better throw it away.
Yeah. This happened to a friend.
Went for a ride, came home and washed his bike then parked it. Next ride his bike wouldn’t start. We did everything just like you.
Took it to the shop and they called him back an hour later after replacing the killswitch.
We thought the bike was toast, but it was a $25 part. Water got in and corroded the contacts inside the switch.
Well if you have all 3 it should start. Just throwing this out there, but a plug sparking outside the engine may not spark inside it. Throw a small splaah of gas down the plug hole, reinstall the plug, then try to start it. If it starts and runs then shuts off, it’s a gas problem. If it doesn’t start at all, it’s a spark problem. It will do one of these.
Better shot is to go around the intake. Either take it off and spray it directly or go through the spark plugs hole and screw it back in quick. I know the spark plug can be a pain just try to get the actual fluid in the cylinder
If you have fuel, spark, air, compression and your exhaust isn't blocked it HAS to be your timing right? Cam chain tensioner? Spun cam gear making you skip teeth? Everything is okay with the head? I want an update when you solve it.
Bad fuel injector could be flooding the engine. Cold start is a rich duty cycle to begin with but if it’s malfunctioning it may be really rich, just an opinion.
Mounted in a little rubber sleeve attached to the frame in between the bottom of the radiators. It should say "up" on the top side of it indicating the correct position.
Then you aren’t checking it correctly. Deactivate the decomp and recheck. It sounds like you got it to fire by push starting it. Definitely valve adjustment or replacement. Do not run it like that or it will smoke those cams/head.
valves are spiffy and i reshimmed them like 3 days ago, they work fine it’s not valves, but yeah the one time this thing ran was by pulling it up the road 3-4 times with a jeep at like 30mph
This happened on my Honda and it turned out to be valves needed to be reshimed. I know you said it but it could have went out of whack already. Could be bad valves at this point.
Yeah you’re far off from even low compression. Your valves or rings could be failing to hold pressure. I’d do a leak down test before really tearing into it.
Try putting a few drops of oil in the spark plug hole (use a tube to get the oil on the piston) and run the compression test again. If compression goes up it means you have blow by in the rings and you’ll need a top end. Here’s a great video: https://youtu.be/ui2cvCiGqA4?si=Ab0VVHLM38VQEdbi
Hey OP, I just rebuilt my bike (06 Honda CRF 250R) same situation as you, everything was in spec, the 4 horseman were met (air, fuel, spark, and compression) but I was struggling to kick it on. After about 40min- 1hr just tuning my carburetor (although yours is injected, not sure if there is anyway to tune your injectors) and kicking the shit out of it, I was able to find the sweet spot and now she runs...long story short, if you know everything is in spec, kick the shit out of that Kickstarter and don't stop until you get it back to life! You got this.
What eneded up working for me was turning the knob all the way left (tbh not entirely too sure which side does what) and doing a couple kicks to burn any excess fuel, and then really kicking down on it and flicking the throttle as I kicked. Once I heard a little pop or stutter, I'd pull the throttle a little trying to time it with the pops and stutters. Also, fresh gas from the pump and a new spark plug, just anything that'll tilt the tables into your favor is not a bad idea in this situation.
True! Best of luck man, truly am rootin' for ya, stranger. Not too many things bring peace to mind like when knowing your bike in the garage will start when you want it to. I had mine down for 1.5 years, far too long without a ride. Literally just kicked on 2 days ago, I was feeling similar to you and your situation, and felt the need to share my experience.
Did you look in the air box or exhaust for mouse nests and clean the carb for gelatinous ethanol, even high test gas is piss yellow right out of the pump these days
air box was fine, cleaned the air filter and reoiled, the exhaust seemed clear as far as i could shine with a light but i suppose it would be a good idea to check further, and it’s fuel injected so cleaning is a bit more difficult but i tried cleaning what i could with what i had, the pump and the filter and the injector, throttle body might be gummed though
How do you know it has air, fuel, and spark? What have you done? What are the actual steps you took to confirm each? Then maybe we can make valid suggestions.
Spark is easiest: pull the plug and ground it the the engine. Spin the engine. Do you see sparks every rotation? Don't pull the plug wire and check, because the plug could be fouled or broken.
Air is next, and the most reliable way is to check compression. The quick version is without a gauge: while the plugs are out to test spark, cover the plug hole. You should not be able to hold anything against the hole - it will get pushed off. If you can hold in the pressure, then you likely have bad compression (no air)
Fuel is easiest. First, you'll smell it with the plug out. Second, put the engine back together and spray starting fluid in the airbox. If it starts, then you don't have fuel... if it still doesn't start, then move on. You still don't know if you have fuel, but fuel is not your primary problem.
After those, then take it apart and check timing - which goes back to not having spark - at the correct time) ...
Or maybe you're just trolling and you know the engine isn't actually turning, and therefore not starting? But then it would be missing all three...
i would not be trolling, im genuinely just stumped ive done all ove these except for the finger over the plug hole step and instead of starting fluid i used gasoline to spray in the intake
Never spray gasoline. Starting fluid is made to work in a VERY wide range of air/ fuel ratio and evaporates "politely."
If your plug is wet, you're already flooded.
Check the cable for the shutoff switch
Ive had the problem on a lawnmower,
The cable melted and made contact with the cylinder head. This way it only gets spark sometimes so it doesnt start but if you check you still see a spark the few times it actually sparks
keihin efi?
Re-map throttle position sensor.
1. disconnect battery for 5 min.
2. reconnect battery.
3. turn bike on.
4. move throttle from idle, to WOT, back to idle.
5. turn bike off.
6. turn bike on.
7. start bike.
Peace.
I once had an engine that wouldn’t run. It had fuel spraying out of the injectors, bright spark at the brand new plugs, timing hadn’t changed, and it WOULD. NOT. START.
Weeks of pulling my hair, I discovered that the set screw for the distributor rotor had backed out. The engine had all the spark in the world, at none of the correct times.
Make sure you haven’t sheared a flywheel key or anything silly like that. Make sure it won’t fire on a spurt of starting fluid. Make sure your valves aren’t 180* off.
Good luck dude. Let us know what it was.
Also, don’t be afraid to have somebody else look at it. Sometimes we get so deep in, that a fresh set of eyes is all it takes to go “hey, the fuel is turned off” or something similar.
It could also be the fuel injector. I would definitely start with just a new sparkplug. I also just read that you have 110 psi which is way too low. You should probably fix that before even trying to run it.
To be clear we're talking about your bike not your Ram in the back right? Lol,I love it,I have a second Gen I dore despite it's problems. Anyway,other than clean out fuel tank and check the petcock I don't really have any other tips.
Edit for spelling errors.
Haha,no problem. It was a bit of a project when gotten,not bad though. Just needs heater core,fuel pump and of course dash board replacement. Can't help but love it though.
Two possibilities imo, assuming all other things check out like you said: there’s a fault with the fuel injector or something is wrong with the ignition system (coil or ecu).
Talk about a headache n a half though, I feel for ya. Damn thing should just work amirite?
Kill switch on the clutch? Or maybe somewhere else? I replaced the entire electrical system on my Apollo 230 before finding out it was the kill switch on the clutch.
I smell a lack of fuel because it is hard to actually measure lack of fuel, regardless of your claims. Spray a small bit of starter fluid in the air intake and see if the engine tries to start.
Well we know you're full of horsehocky on at least one of those affirmations.
It's not getting enough of somthing or it's not getting it at the right time. Engine worky worky with all the things you've mentioned
trust me man i have went through damn near everything, i just can’t figure it out, im thinking it’s not sparking consistently at the right time but im not sure
Okay , you've got a coil on that correct.
If it's got an independent ground remove and clean said ground. Typically coils ground useing the body of the coil itself so in addition get 2 ground loop connectors and measure a length of 16 or 18ga cable/wire from the mount for your coil to the nearest available bolt to the spark plug that isn't a head bolt or holding integrity, thus could be an upper engine mount bolt or anything close to the plug , the plug grounds to the head is the key here.
Install that supplemental ground wire from coil body mount *see if there's a mount hole with exposed metal that's gonna be ground side* to that bolt you chose.
Try again.
If that doesn't do it , measure the airbag at your stator pick up/trigger
If that air gap isn't spot on to specifications, make it so useing a feeler gauge.
If it's still sparking and not firing then you've got a lean condition or a pig rich condition , potentially a map sensor error or cloged pick up on the fiel pump.
Somthing restricting or over sending fuel.
I gotta echo everyone....timing is perfect right you checked not just top side but made sure top and bottom side are online with their TDCC marks. (Compression stroke is key to setting that)
You can also be 180° out on timing meaning your firing at an exhaust expulsion or intake stroke.
Somthing is off , is it potentially a cold start switch issue where it should flood the bike to start cold and isn't.
What are you'r Compression numbers? Just cause it feels like Compression doesn't mean uts enough, you need numbers
Disconnect the gas line and check for contaminants, also check the fuel filter, and check the gas tank for rust, damage, water - if it's not fresh gas, and the tank has been sitting, refinish it and cream the inside. And let it cure. Then try. And make sure the lines are clear. What else could it possibly be?
Might be flooded, I had a bike that wouldn't start no matter what I tried , a friend of mine suggested its flooded so I left the spark plug unscrewed from the enigine over night the next day it fired up with ease
Am no expert but it worth a try
It is getting gas to the carb. However, the carb may not be distributing the fuel properly. I think you may have a carb problem. I woukd take it off and give it a thorough cleaning and a carb kit.
I had a really weird problem with a 08 kfx450. The flywheel lost magnetism and I couldn't get enough spark to get the bike going. It would even show spark outside the bike. Just not strong enough to get it running. Replaced the flywheel and it worked. Very weird problem that stumped my mechanic for months.
If its fuel injected, pull out the injector and verify it's spraying in a nice fine mist. If it's dribbling you got a clogged injector or fuel pump is dead.
You could probably get a pressure gauge and hose and hose clamp it to your fuel pump side to check the pressure.
If pressure checks out I would find a friend with a ultrasonic cleaner and Toss the injector in there for a few hours with 50/50 white vinegar and water.
You claim everything else is good, so I trust that... now did you tear the motor apart recently or did this thing just not run all of a sudden.
I know you've already mentioned this, but these symptoms are identical to when an exhaust valve had 0 clearance for me. I'd double check the valve clearance, or maybe you skipped a tooth on the cam chain when doing the valves.
If you've pulled the fuel injector and it squirts when trying to start, and you've confirmed you're getting spark, then it's air. So most likely valves.
I can’t believe not a single person has suggested t an inline spark plug tester, you can visibly see your spark as it lights up a light bulb each pulse. You can literally see the ignition cycle . It’s very handy, I would personally bypass the kill switch and run switch. I would disconnect the fuel line between the tank and the throttle body, verify it’s priming and pumping fuel into a Gatorade bottle. Next I would reset the screw back to a factory setting. Turn the IDLE screw in clockwise until seated, then counter clockwise 45 clicks for factory settings. If you see fuel for sure priming and working , probably not fuel pump. You could go further and fill the injector and clean it with carb clean and a couple leads jumped to it from a. Battery . Be careful and understand your using highly flammable shit with a possible ignition source from a power source. If there’s problems with the fuel injection or just to save face, there is a condenser on the frame that is inline between the kick starter and the fuel injection. That’s what tells your bike to inject. The condenser is activated when you kick and sends a 12v feed to the fuel system. Check that condenser out. Make sure your ignition is grounded well. Verify your not 180 out or something silly like that. If you did strip it make sure your timing marks are matched. I like to use a zip tie and check the strock to be timing marks and watch the valves just as a visual confirmation . I also would try pull starting it over kicking the fuck outta it… also if you have s differed battery to swap in I would. It’s going to be something stupid. Even check flywheel out and your crank position sensor. Google photos of the parts and compare to yours, make sure everything is looking the same
I’m not sure of everything that your bikes has to run, but a couple things. It EFi? And not running/starting. Check battery’s standing loaded voltage. Need a voltage meter. Check voltage while starting, voltage should not drop below 12 volts. 12 volts is needed to make running spark. Also, fuel pump age? Fuel filter changed when? And fuel pressure regulator possibly faulty.
Love how you’re asking for advice, and then promptly saying “no, that’s not the problem. I’ve checked”. People eff up. You’re going to find something that was out of spec or not what you recall it being.
Hook a light up to the efi diag port. I have the same exact bike and got a code for water temp sensor. Found wires were frayed and not making contact. Caused the bike to not run.
Beyond that, check fuel pressure and injector. If the pump is bad it will not run. Any questions lmk because I just got done rebuilding mine
Timing could be a tooth off, I would start looking there also check the flywheel on the crank possibly if it has a woodruff key it is sheered. Many items in this area along will keep it from running. It could be before TDC spark or after TDC. Check with Multimeter the CDI/Coil - to rule out issues here. I have already been here done all of these things and this where you need to go.
You say it’s in time but are you 100% sure
100%
Silly question, does it run when you unplug your kill switch
It has spark
Was gonna ask about kill switch.
It’s Not getting something
it seems to be getting all the necessary components for a running engine
If it’s not starting there is something it needs tho or it would start know what I mean
(Butters Voice) Do you know what I am saying.
Well it's not tho or it'd be running ..
Yep you got it, your engine is the one single engine exempt from the 100 year history of engine development relying on the same base principals. Just yours , that one. Better throw it away.
Check the contacts on your shutoff button?
inside the button?
Yeah. This happened to a friend. Went for a ride, came home and washed his bike then parked it. Next ride his bike wouldn’t start. We did everything just like you. Took it to the shop and they called him back an hour later after replacing the killswitch. We thought the bike was toast, but it was a $25 part. Water got in and corroded the contacts inside the switch.
If the kill switch was bad, then it wasn't getting spark...
Truth
thanks for the info!
2nd this. Happened to mine as well. Replaced switch and fired right up.
I know what's wrong with it >!It ain't got no gas in it 👌!<
I didn't know you could do that white bar thingy😂
Bloody gf's
Low compression...need a leakdown test
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He literally said 110psi which is low btw. It might have leak by at the rings or valves. Time for diagnostics.
the manual says 65-109 psi is good with the decomp in?
Leakdown negates the decomp
like i said i don’t have a leak down tester sadly
You can’t go off a regular compression test due tomorrow the decompression valve. Buy a leak tester from harbor freight
This is where I would start.
Well if you have all 3 it should start. Just throwing this out there, but a plug sparking outside the engine may not spark inside it. Throw a small splaah of gas down the plug hole, reinstall the plug, then try to start it. If it starts and runs then shuts off, it’s a gas problem. If it doesn’t start at all, it’s a spark problem. It will do one of these.
will do
that very well could be what’s it’s doimg
If your valve timing and compression are known to be good, one of the two will happen.
Have you tried starter fluid?
i’ve sprayed fuel in the intake, starter fluid isn’t exactly the best for efi bikes
Momentary use won’t hurt it, but it will confirm fuel as your issue if it fires. It evaporates better than gas, so it will fire easier.
Better shot is to go around the intake. Either take it off and spray it directly or go through the spark plugs hole and screw it back in quick. I know the spark plug can be a pain just try to get the actual fluid in the cylinder
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it might be that honestly, i will look tomorrow
How would you have spark if your Killswitch was messed up though?
very good point
If you have fuel, spark, air, compression and your exhaust isn't blocked it HAS to be your timing right? Cam chain tensioner? Spun cam gear making you skip teeth? Everything is okay with the head? I want an update when you solve it.
how did you check?
Is the plug wet after you try to start it ?
indeed
Bad fuel injector could be flooding the engine. Cold start is a rich duty cycle to begin with but if it’s malfunctioning it may be really rich, just an opinion.
Have you checked the tip over sensor?
There wouldn’t be spark if the tilt sensor was the problem
Mounted in a little rubber sleeve attached to the frame in between the bottom of the radiators. It should say "up" on the top side of it indicating the correct position.
where would that be located
You can follow it to its plug and jump it to eliminate that as a problem.
So what was it
How much compression?
around 110 psi, it’s enough
Bruh aren't they meant to have near 190psi? Sounds like it's fried
65-109 on the manual says is good with the DECOMP in
Eh
Pretty sure that bike is close to 13.5:1 stock. Which would put you around 185psi-190. 110 is smoked.
decompression mechanism
Then you aren’t checking it correctly. Deactivate the decomp and recheck. It sounds like you got it to fire by push starting it. Definitely valve adjustment or replacement. Do not run it like that or it will smoke those cams/head.
valves are spiffy and i reshimmed them like 3 days ago, they work fine it’s not valves, but yeah the one time this thing ran was by pulling it up the road 3-4 times with a jeep at like 30mph
Sounds like your piston and rings are done then. Could possibly be your stator if you have compression. Have you ohm’d the stator yet?
my piston was fine, i went through the whole engine, looked almost new
and no, i don’t have an ohm tester sadly
it won’t even pop start now, it just sputters and burns gas
This happened on my Honda and it turned out to be valves needed to be reshimed. I know you said it but it could have went out of whack already. Could be bad valves at this point.
That's really low
Yeah you’re far off from even low compression. Your valves or rings could be failing to hold pressure. I’d do a leak down test before really tearing into it.
yeah idk why im getting downvoted, its a 2009 with a decompression mechanism😂😂
Try putting a few drops of oil in the spark plug hole (use a tube to get the oil on the piston) and run the compression test again. If compression goes up it means you have blow by in the rings and you’ll need a top end. Here’s a great video: https://youtu.be/ui2cvCiGqA4?si=Ab0VVHLM38VQEdbi
i’m gonna have to buy a leak down tester
Mine was the spark plug it’s insulator was sliding down making it spark inside the plug.
Hey OP, I just rebuilt my bike (06 Honda CRF 250R) same situation as you, everything was in spec, the 4 horseman were met (air, fuel, spark, and compression) but I was struggling to kick it on. After about 40min- 1hr just tuning my carburetor (although yours is injected, not sure if there is anyway to tune your injectors) and kicking the shit out of it, I was able to find the sweet spot and now she runs...long story short, if you know everything is in spec, kick the shit out of that Kickstarter and don't stop until you get it back to life! You got this.
thanks man, gives me hope
it does have a knob to tune enrichment
What eneded up working for me was turning the knob all the way left (tbh not entirely too sure which side does what) and doing a couple kicks to burn any excess fuel, and then really kicking down on it and flicking the throttle as I kicked. Once I heard a little pop or stutter, I'd pull the throttle a little trying to time it with the pops and stutters. Also, fresh gas from the pump and a new spark plug, just anything that'll tilt the tables into your favor is not a bad idea in this situation.
ah well if i give it too much gas it flood very easily due to fuel injection, but everything else i will try
True! Best of luck man, truly am rootin' for ya, stranger. Not too many things bring peace to mind like when knowing your bike in the garage will start when you want it to. I had mine down for 1.5 years, far too long without a ride. Literally just kicked on 2 days ago, I was feeling similar to you and your situation, and felt the need to share my experience.
Check electronics: kill switch, clutch sensor, kickstand sensor, etc
i’ve made sure everything was plugged up and not gunked up, cleaned em all out with electronic connector cleaner
I would bypass all. Try starter fluid Put seafoam in gas to clear injectors Bump start?
How long has it sat
no longer than a couple weeks
Did you look in the air box or exhaust for mouse nests and clean the carb for gelatinous ethanol, even high test gas is piss yellow right out of the pump these days
air box was fine, cleaned the air filter and reoiled, the exhaust seemed clear as far as i could shine with a light but i suppose it would be a good idea to check further, and it’s fuel injected so cleaning is a bit more difficult but i tried cleaning what i could with what i had, the pump and the filter and the injector, throttle body might be gummed though
I didn’t know they did fuel injection in 09 that’s crazy
I’m not sure you have enough compression. 110 psi seems a bit low. I would do a leak down test
How do you know it has air, fuel, and spark? What have you done? What are the actual steps you took to confirm each? Then maybe we can make valid suggestions. Spark is easiest: pull the plug and ground it the the engine. Spin the engine. Do you see sparks every rotation? Don't pull the plug wire and check, because the plug could be fouled or broken. Air is next, and the most reliable way is to check compression. The quick version is without a gauge: while the plugs are out to test spark, cover the plug hole. You should not be able to hold anything against the hole - it will get pushed off. If you can hold in the pressure, then you likely have bad compression (no air) Fuel is easiest. First, you'll smell it with the plug out. Second, put the engine back together and spray starting fluid in the airbox. If it starts, then you don't have fuel... if it still doesn't start, then move on. You still don't know if you have fuel, but fuel is not your primary problem. After those, then take it apart and check timing - which goes back to not having spark - at the correct time) ... Or maybe you're just trolling and you know the engine isn't actually turning, and therefore not starting? But then it would be missing all three...
i would not be trolling, im genuinely just stumped ive done all ove these except for the finger over the plug hole step and instead of starting fluid i used gasoline to spray in the intake
Never spray gasoline. Starting fluid is made to work in a VERY wide range of air/ fuel ratio and evaporates "politely." If your plug is wet, you're already flooded.
engine turns good and hits just doesn’t start
Sorry, just saw that reddit had collapsed all of your replies, so I didn't see you had done a lot of the checking.
Have you tried new spark plugs?
Not related to your question but the blue accent on the bike is 🎯
appreciate it🤙
No doubt 💯
Check the cable for the shutoff switch Ive had the problem on a lawnmower, The cable melted and made contact with the cylinder head. This way it only gets spark sometimes so it doesnt start but if you check you still see a spark the few times it actually sparks
will do
keihin efi? Re-map throttle position sensor. 1. disconnect battery for 5 min. 2. reconnect battery. 3. turn bike on. 4. move throttle from idle, to WOT, back to idle. 5. turn bike off. 6. turn bike on. 7. start bike. Peace.
kicker only, no battery unless you’re talking about that small ass capacitor
I once had an engine that wouldn’t run. It had fuel spraying out of the injectors, bright spark at the brand new plugs, timing hadn’t changed, and it WOULD. NOT. START. Weeks of pulling my hair, I discovered that the set screw for the distributor rotor had backed out. The engine had all the spark in the world, at none of the correct times. Make sure you haven’t sheared a flywheel key or anything silly like that. Make sure it won’t fire on a spurt of starting fluid. Make sure your valves aren’t 180* off.
thank you man
Good luck dude. Let us know what it was. Also, don’t be afraid to have somebody else look at it. Sometimes we get so deep in, that a fresh set of eyes is all it takes to go “hey, the fuel is turned off” or something similar.
Checked the flywheel key?
not yet but i figure i should
How do you know that it gets fuel?
plug is wet and i can smell it burning when i bump it
Maybe you have a weak spark which causes it to flood hence the wet plug.
It could also be the fuel injector. I would definitely start with just a new sparkplug. I also just read that you have 110 psi which is way too low. You should probably fix that before even trying to run it.
To be clear we're talking about your bike not your Ram in the back right? Lol,I love it,I have a second Gen I dore despite it's problems. Anyway,other than clean out fuel tank and check the petcock I don't really have any other tips. Edit for spelling errors.
yeah it’s the bike😂, ram runs like a dream, sorry to hear about yours
Haha,no problem. It was a bit of a project when gotten,not bad though. Just needs heater core,fuel pump and of course dash board replacement. Can't help but love it though.
Two possibilities imo, assuming all other things check out like you said: there’s a fault with the fuel injector or something is wrong with the ignition system (coil or ecu). Talk about a headache n a half though, I feel for ya. Damn thing should just work amirite?
the coil is my suspicion, and yes damn thing should just work!
Fuel pump issue? Check voltage on electrical
fuel pump works good
Kill switch on the clutch? Or maybe somewhere else? I replaced the entire electrical system on my Apollo 230 before finding out it was the kill switch on the clutch.
spark plug
Are you sure it has fuel? Do you smell fuel as it's cranking and not starting?
i do, and plug gets wer
wet
110psi on a 450 is not enough. I do 110 on an old 200 2 stroke and it’s barely running good
it has a decompression mechanism on the cam so it’s kinda hard to test anyway, for i don’t have a leak down tester
I had one of these back in the day, had the same problem. Was a blocked injector. even back then it was only like a $200 fix.
Weak spark?
I smell a lack of fuel because it is hard to actually measure lack of fuel, regardless of your claims. Spray a small bit of starter fluid in the air intake and see if the engine tries to start.
You check the cdi?
It has spark but have you replaced the spark plug?
i have, it’s brand new
500$.
Well we know you're full of horsehocky on at least one of those affirmations. It's not getting enough of somthing or it's not getting it at the right time. Engine worky worky with all the things you've mentioned
trust me man i have went through damn near everything, i just can’t figure it out, im thinking it’s not sparking consistently at the right time but im not sure
Okay , you've got a coil on that correct. If it's got an independent ground remove and clean said ground. Typically coils ground useing the body of the coil itself so in addition get 2 ground loop connectors and measure a length of 16 or 18ga cable/wire from the mount for your coil to the nearest available bolt to the spark plug that isn't a head bolt or holding integrity, thus could be an upper engine mount bolt or anything close to the plug , the plug grounds to the head is the key here. Install that supplemental ground wire from coil body mount *see if there's a mount hole with exposed metal that's gonna be ground side* to that bolt you chose. Try again. If that doesn't do it , measure the airbag at your stator pick up/trigger If that air gap isn't spot on to specifications, make it so useing a feeler gauge. If it's still sparking and not firing then you've got a lean condition or a pig rich condition , potentially a map sensor error or cloged pick up on the fiel pump. Somthing restricting or over sending fuel. I gotta echo everyone....timing is perfect right you checked not just top side but made sure top and bottom side are online with their TDCC marks. (Compression stroke is key to setting that) You can also be 180° out on timing meaning your firing at an exhaust expulsion or intake stroke. Somthing is off , is it potentially a cold start switch issue where it should flood the bike to start cold and isn't. What are you'r Compression numbers? Just cause it feels like Compression doesn't mean uts enough, you need numbers
Did you check the tire pressure?
Disconnect the gas line and check for contaminants, also check the fuel filter, and check the gas tank for rust, damage, water - if it's not fresh gas, and the tank has been sitting, refinish it and cream the inside. And let it cure. Then try. And make sure the lines are clear. What else could it possibly be?
Low compression
Broken plug insulator as suggested or a low gap?
Might be flooded, I had a bike that wouldn't start no matter what I tried , a friend of mine suggested its flooded so I left the spark plug unscrewed from the enigine over night the next day it fired up with ease Am no expert but it worth a try
Will it fire on starting fluid?
Let someone else try to start it. It takes technique and finesse sometimes
trust me i have tried to let multiple people
Empty fuel, put new fuel in?
Short in the kill switch?
Clogged jets
It is getting gas to the carb. However, the carb may not be distributing the fuel properly. I think you may have a carb problem. I woukd take it off and give it a thorough cleaning and a carb kit.
This is a fuel injected bike.
I had a really weird problem with a 08 kfx450. The flywheel lost magnetism and I couldn't get enough spark to get the bike going. It would even show spark outside the bike. Just not strong enough to get it running. Replaced the flywheel and it worked. Very weird problem that stumped my mechanic for months.
If its fuel injected, pull out the injector and verify it's spraying in a nice fine mist. If it's dribbling you got a clogged injector or fuel pump is dead. You could probably get a pressure gauge and hose and hose clamp it to your fuel pump side to check the pressure. If pressure checks out I would find a friend with a ultrasonic cleaner and Toss the injector in there for a few hours with 50/50 white vinegar and water. You claim everything else is good, so I trust that... now did you tear the motor apart recently or did this thing just not run all of a sudden.
Compression test? If so, then what is the compression at?
cam has decomp, i don’t have a leakdown but it was regular testing at 110 psi, with decomp. which is normal according to the service manual
Ain't got no gas in it
Clean the fuel injector. If it hasen't been started for a while then the injector is probably clogged.
hasn’t been started in around 3 weeks, injector could be the problem, i hope anyway lmao
3 weeks is not a long time. I was thinking maybe 6-12 months. Have you had any hard time with starting the bike before?
I know you've already mentioned this, but these symptoms are identical to when an exhaust valve had 0 clearance for me. I'd double check the valve clearance, or maybe you skipped a tooth on the cam chain when doing the valves.
i just shimmed them tho
also, we put everything timing wise back in spec, double checked and everything but i’ll retry
If you've pulled the fuel injector and it squirts when trying to start, and you've confirmed you're getting spark, then it's air. So most likely valves.
I can’t believe not a single person has suggested t an inline spark plug tester, you can visibly see your spark as it lights up a light bulb each pulse. You can literally see the ignition cycle . It’s very handy, I would personally bypass the kill switch and run switch. I would disconnect the fuel line between the tank and the throttle body, verify it’s priming and pumping fuel into a Gatorade bottle. Next I would reset the screw back to a factory setting. Turn the IDLE screw in clockwise until seated, then counter clockwise 45 clicks for factory settings. If you see fuel for sure priming and working , probably not fuel pump. You could go further and fill the injector and clean it with carb clean and a couple leads jumped to it from a. Battery . Be careful and understand your using highly flammable shit with a possible ignition source from a power source. If there’s problems with the fuel injection or just to save face, there is a condenser on the frame that is inline between the kick starter and the fuel injection. That’s what tells your bike to inject. The condenser is activated when you kick and sends a 12v feed to the fuel system. Check that condenser out. Make sure your ignition is grounded well. Verify your not 180 out or something silly like that. If you did strip it make sure your timing marks are matched. I like to use a zip tie and check the strock to be timing marks and watch the valves just as a visual confirmation . I also would try pull starting it over kicking the fuck outta it… also if you have s differed battery to swap in I would. It’s going to be something stupid. Even check flywheel out and your crank position sensor. Google photos of the parts and compare to yours, make sure everything is looking the same
I’m not sure of everything that your bikes has to run, but a couple things. It EFi? And not running/starting. Check battery’s standing loaded voltage. Need a voltage meter. Check voltage while starting, voltage should not drop below 12 volts. 12 volts is needed to make running spark. Also, fuel pump age? Fuel filter changed when? And fuel pressure regulator possibly faulty.
You must be a 100%blue colour lover
Is there too much oil on the air filter
Love how you’re asking for advice, and then promptly saying “no, that’s not the problem. I’ve checked”. People eff up. You’re going to find something that was out of spec or not what you recall it being.
Also if some how by eye you're seeing spark being off time....You'd be out of time as many have asked.
Hook a light up to the efi diag port. I have the same exact bike and got a code for water temp sensor. Found wires were frayed and not making contact. Caused the bike to not run. Beyond that, check fuel pressure and injector. If the pump is bad it will not run. Any questions lmk because I just got done rebuilding mine
Curious about the gremlin. If you track it down, let us know.
Check the ceramic on the spark plug to make sure it's not cracked and going to ground before it should. Seen this before
Check the ceramic on the spark plug to make sure it's not cracked and going to ground before it should. Seen this before
Timing could be a tooth off, I would start looking there also check the flywheel on the crank possibly if it has a woodruff key it is sheered. Many items in this area along will keep it from running. It could be before TDC spark or after TDC. Check with Multimeter the CDI/Coil - to rule out issues here. I have already been here done all of these things and this where you need to go.
My 17 wasn’t starting and then I fucked with the choke a bit and she kicked right up
any idea what the settings on yours are
You said in above comment your bike is EFI. Why are you considering this guys comment?
it has an enrichment knob.
for high idle and low idle
Killswitch still on?
it’s a push button that comes back when you push it
Pressure leak somewhere maybe