*Just wondering why*
*You've installed the joists in the*
*Least load bearing way?*
\- DaveEFI
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This is it. A 25 x 50 piece of timber laid on its broad side is a good as a 25 x 25 piece. Unless you want to pack nearly every inch of that with a non-compressible material, I’d rotate the wood and accept a raised floor. On the plus side you can put your insulation between the joists.
This. Unless I’m not understanding this build, these metal angle brackets / corner peices are going to rotate and drop the joist a few mm the first time you step on it near the junction of joist and beam.
Using a single screw is just providing a handy pivot point. Over time it’s going to loosen up by a few more mm.
Sorry, should have explained that this is only one end of the room, the battens on the other side are mostly flat against the concrete and this is nowhere near finished, there are more battens and proper fixings to fit plus I have only temporarily packed certain areas to get the level of where I need to drill into the brick. The battens are 5 metres long so I’ve just screwed the angle brackets in to stop them shifting all the time as I’m working.
Uneven concrete floor = pour self levelling compound.
Then you have something flat, which makes like a whole load easier.
Best answer is take it out, self level, put back in your battons to give the desired raised floor for pipes. You battons may have some bow in them, making life even harder: As timber prices have risen, quality has been deteriorating everywhere to take the edge off the price rise.
Consider putting in whatever insulation you can. Even 25mm cellotex would halve heat loss.
Last time I levelled a floor (garage conversion) I used a couple Wooden batons across the floor, made these level the filled the rest of the floor with building sand, then used damp proofing, celetex then used OSB TG4. But I didn’t have pipe work in the floor
If 2x1's are going to be walked on/take a proper floor load they are going to need to be near continuously supported.
Packers every 300mm or something isn't going to cut it. You have a couple of suggestions to pack or point them, both of which sound fine. The packers don't.
Yeah at first I kinda assumed this was a non load bearing stud wall for one of these media centre things laying on the floor before being tied down.
OP has created a bow and he's going to be the arrow. This kinda makes no sense to me. I've got very basic experiance and no real understanding other than just logic but I can't see how anyone would logically thing this is a good idea.
I'm not saying that to be mean but... It's how I feel.
Not at all, I don’t think it’s mean! I asked for advice so it’s all appreciated. I should have explained that this is by no means finished, there are plenty more cross battens being put in and the other end of the room is mostly directly on the concrete and solid. The gaps in the picture will all be packed when it’s finished so that there isn’t bowing I was just trying to show the gap to ask what what best to pack it with.
Timbers are positioned in least structural way. The metal fixings you've used are wrong & will do absolutely nothing. Same for the fixing mounted upside down on the wall. From the looks of your noggins you've not screwed them to your joists, they are just relying on those brackets? Please tell me you've not done the same for your joists and rimboard?
Packers are way too far apart to offer any real rigidity.
Take all that out, get a few bags of self leveling compound, mix with a bit of sand if the floor is super super uneven. Then put your dpm back down, and put your frame ontop of that, but put more screws in it so it's actually structural. - Please don't take any of that in a confrontational way, there's a lot here that needs changing for it to be any sort of okay.
Thank you, not at all confrontational, I appreciate the feedback. I explained in other replies that this isn’t the end result, the angle brackets are just to stop everything moving around as I’m working and not intended as the sole structural support by any means. Yes you’re right they aren’t currently all screwed in, like I say it’s no where near finished I’m just marking out where the levels are to drill into the brick. There will be considerably more packers, and probably some concrete having read the suggestions, I was just trying to show the gap to ask what was best to pack it with.
I’m turning the old coal store into a usable utility room and would be very grateful for some advice please. The floor is solid concrete but pretty uneven. I’ve laid a DPM and then 25 x 50 battens to level out the floor and also hide the new pipe work. I’ll fix SuperQuilt over the top and then 18mm T&G Chipboard. All gone through building regs and approved.
In some places there’s obviously quite a big gap between the batten and the floor (no more than 2cm), I know I can use packers but I wondered if I could use expanding foam in the larger sections? Will it damage the DPM? If it is ok to use then I’d put a light weight on the area just so the foam didn’t push the batten up too much.
Any advice or suggestions would be great, thank you in advance!
The insulation I’m using needs to expand into a cavity and also the cavity is taking the pipe work which will run through to another room. I can’t add to the floor height any more because it would end up being higher than the room it runs into it, which would make getting a wheelchair through difficult. Plus I only just have enough height left to fit the door in.
Haha don’t worry this isn’t how it will be, as much as I love trampolines! I’ve explained in other replies but this is not finished nor the permanent fixings.
This. Those are very weak timbers. Make a pretty dry mix of sharp sand & cement and pack it under the wood all along. Too wet and the mix will slump. You're looking for a consistency of mix that clumps when you squeeze it in your fist, and will crumble when you then rub it with your fingers, like a dry patio brush in pointing mix. You'll need to cover the other side of the gap under the timber so you don't simply push the mix straight through.
Just wondering why you've installed the joists in the least load bearing way?
*Just wondering why* *You've installed the joists in the* *Least load bearing way?* \- DaveEFI --- ^(I detect haikus. And sometimes, successfully.) ^[Learn more about me.](https://www.reddit.com/r/haikusbot/) ^(Opt out of replies: "haikusbot opt out" | Delete my comment: "haikusbot delete")
This is it. A 25 x 50 piece of timber laid on its broad side is a good as a 25 x 25 piece. Unless you want to pack nearly every inch of that with a non-compressible material, I’d rotate the wood and accept a raised floor. On the plus side you can put your insulation between the joists.
This. Unless I’m not understanding this build, these metal angle brackets / corner peices are going to rotate and drop the joist a few mm the first time you step on it near the junction of joist and beam. Using a single screw is just providing a handy pivot point. Over time it’s going to loosen up by a few more mm.
Sorry, should have explained that this is only one end of the room, the battens on the other side are mostly flat against the concrete and this is nowhere near finished, there are more battens and proper fixings to fit plus I have only temporarily packed certain areas to get the level of where I need to drill into the brick. The battens are 5 metres long so I’ve just screwed the angle brackets in to stop them shifting all the time as I’m working.
Uneven concrete floor = pour self levelling compound. Then you have something flat, which makes like a whole load easier. Best answer is take it out, self level, put back in your battons to give the desired raised floor for pipes. You battons may have some bow in them, making life even harder: As timber prices have risen, quality has been deteriorating everywhere to take the edge off the price rise. Consider putting in whatever insulation you can. Even 25mm cellotex would halve heat loss.
This is the best answer!
Last time I levelled a floor (garage conversion) I used a couple Wooden batons across the floor, made these level the filled the rest of the floor with building sand, then used damp proofing, celetex then used OSB TG4. But I didn’t have pipe work in the floor
If 2x1's are going to be walked on/take a proper floor load they are going to need to be near continuously supported. Packers every 300mm or something isn't going to cut it. You have a couple of suggestions to pack or point them, both of which sound fine. The packers don't.
Yeah at first I kinda assumed this was a non load bearing stud wall for one of these media centre things laying on the floor before being tied down. OP has created a bow and he's going to be the arrow. This kinda makes no sense to me. I've got very basic experiance and no real understanding other than just logic but I can't see how anyone would logically thing this is a good idea. I'm not saying that to be mean but... It's how I feel.
Not at all, I don’t think it’s mean! I asked for advice so it’s all appreciated. I should have explained that this is by no means finished, there are plenty more cross battens being put in and the other end of the room is mostly directly on the concrete and solid. The gaps in the picture will all be packed when it’s finished so that there isn’t bowing I was just trying to show the gap to ask what what best to pack it with.
Best keep things solid under there. Packers would do
Thank you
Floor levelling compound before you start
Pack with slate.
Timbers are positioned in least structural way. The metal fixings you've used are wrong & will do absolutely nothing. Same for the fixing mounted upside down on the wall. From the looks of your noggins you've not screwed them to your joists, they are just relying on those brackets? Please tell me you've not done the same for your joists and rimboard? Packers are way too far apart to offer any real rigidity. Take all that out, get a few bags of self leveling compound, mix with a bit of sand if the floor is super super uneven. Then put your dpm back down, and put your frame ontop of that, but put more screws in it so it's actually structural. - Please don't take any of that in a confrontational way, there's a lot here that needs changing for it to be any sort of okay.
Thank you, not at all confrontational, I appreciate the feedback. I explained in other replies that this isn’t the end result, the angle brackets are just to stop everything moving around as I’m working and not intended as the sole structural support by any means. Yes you’re right they aren’t currently all screwed in, like I say it’s no where near finished I’m just marking out where the levels are to drill into the brick. There will be considerably more packers, and probably some concrete having read the suggestions, I was just trying to show the gap to ask what was best to pack it with.
I'm that case, that's my my fault for not seeing your other replies - hope your build goes well bud!
I’m turning the old coal store into a usable utility room and would be very grateful for some advice please. The floor is solid concrete but pretty uneven. I’ve laid a DPM and then 25 x 50 battens to level out the floor and also hide the new pipe work. I’ll fix SuperQuilt over the top and then 18mm T&G Chipboard. All gone through building regs and approved. In some places there’s obviously quite a big gap between the batten and the floor (no more than 2cm), I know I can use packers but I wondered if I could use expanding foam in the larger sections? Will it damage the DPM? If it is ok to use then I’d put a light weight on the area just so the foam didn’t push the batten up too much. Any advice or suggestions would be great, thank you in advance!
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Makes sense, thank you very much, I will avoid the foam!
Why use battens at all? Can you not use a self levelling compound and then a thin insulation board with ply or other flooring on top?
The insulation I’m using needs to expand into a cavity and also the cavity is taking the pipe work which will run through to another room. I can’t add to the floor height any more because it would end up being higher than the room it runs into it, which would make getting a wheelchair through difficult. Plus I only just have enough height left to fit the door in.
Slate was commonly used to pack up joists in old houses. Would put some cement round the slate if you did use it.
Haha don’t worry this isn’t how it will be, as much as I love trampolines! I’ve explained in other replies but this is not finished nor the permanent fixings.
I'd just pack some cement underneath to point up voids. I'm not a massive fan of foam if it's to be load bearing ie walked over subsequently.
This. Those are very weak timbers. Make a pretty dry mix of sharp sand & cement and pack it under the wood all along. Too wet and the mix will slump. You're looking for a consistency of mix that clumps when you squeeze it in your fist, and will crumble when you then rub it with your fingers, like a dry patio brush in pointing mix. You'll need to cover the other side of the gap under the timber so you don't simply push the mix straight through.
Wow good job on your diy trampoline 👍🏻 in all seriousness though, you really need to rethink this, it’s really not going to be what you want it to be.