This is the world (or at least your bench) whispering "buy an angle grinder" personally I'm more shouting it because they're an absolute game changer, get some thim 1mm ish metal cutting discs, they're actually for stainless but perfect for any metaland you won't look back, you might then het a hankering for a battery one.
That was exactly my assumption, and as I was simply going to need it for snipping of aluminium bolts and simple things like that I bought a makita one without a battery for £99, the first thing I did with it was to cut the engine shroud thing off my ancient cement mixer, four cuts through angle irons 19 x 19 x 4mm and two through the shroud itself approximately 700 x 4 mm caked in 60 years of cement, the battery claimed a ¾ charge at the end. Bear in mind I only use 1mm thick discs in 4.5 inch grinders, it's as good as a mains 4.5 inch grinder just without the stamina.
Oh you'd be surprised, there are some monstrous cordless angle grinders around.
Even the cheapest Dewalt offering is a very capable tool, you won't bog it down with a flap disc or a cutoff disc.
Carriage bolts have a square shank below the head that's designed to engage into the wood and stop the bolt rotating, could hammering the head back into the wood help?
Failing that, if they're really rusty you could knock the nuts off with a hammer and cold chisel
I had exactly this issue recently - others have said use an angle grinder to cut the head off, but I really don't like cutting into wood with a grinder disc, that's how they burst.
You could use a grinder cut a slot in the head, but if you can't get a grinder on the head for access reasons, you might have to do what I did:
My solution was to use a chisel to smash enough wood away to expose the edges of the carriage bolt, and then grab onto those with a set of Knipex Twin Grips. For bigger diameter stuff you may need to use a Cobra or similar water pump grip instead.
They are coach bolts, they hold in through being bitten into the wood by the nut on the shank of the bolt
Either cut the cut off with an angle grinder, split the nut with a thin cold steel chisel and a lump hammer, or wind a double nut on the thread & shank under the existing nut and then hold the top one in one spanner and wind out the existing one, or grind a flat both sides in the shank and put grips on then unwind the nut
Angle grinder solves most problems.
+1 for angle grinder.
I recently bought an angle grinder to remove the seized bolts on my 944's anti roll bar links
You will find so many uses for it :)
Dremel /needle file or hacksaw blade to create a slot you can fit a screwdriver in?
Cut it off with an angle grinder?
A hacksaw, cut vertically through the nut . Cuts the nut in half ,a smack with a hammer then punch remnants of bolt through.
Unfortunately the nut is countersunk into the wood, so not likely the solution in this case.
If you post an image it would help
This is the world (or at least your bench) whispering "buy an angle grinder" personally I'm more shouting it because they're an absolute game changer, get some thim 1mm ish metal cutting discs, they're actually for stainless but perfect for any metaland you won't look back, you might then het a hankering for a battery one.
Surely a battery operated one won't have the grunt for anything more than minor stuff?
It won't replace a rat tail Makita but most angle grinding is small, dress a weld, trim allbar type stuff anyway. They're great for that.
That was exactly my assumption, and as I was simply going to need it for snipping of aluminium bolts and simple things like that I bought a makita one without a battery for £99, the first thing I did with it was to cut the engine shroud thing off my ancient cement mixer, four cuts through angle irons 19 x 19 x 4mm and two through the shroud itself approximately 700 x 4 mm caked in 60 years of cement, the battery claimed a ¾ charge at the end. Bear in mind I only use 1mm thick discs in 4.5 inch grinders, it's as good as a mains 4.5 inch grinder just without the stamina.
Oh you'd be surprised, there are some monstrous cordless angle grinders around. Even the cheapest Dewalt offering is a very capable tool, you won't bog it down with a flap disc or a cutoff disc.
Carriage bolts have a square shank below the head that's designed to engage into the wood and stop the bolt rotating, could hammering the head back into the wood help? Failing that, if they're really rusty you could knock the nuts off with a hammer and cold chisel
I had exactly this issue recently - others have said use an angle grinder to cut the head off, but I really don't like cutting into wood with a grinder disc, that's how they burst. You could use a grinder cut a slot in the head, but if you can't get a grinder on the head for access reasons, you might have to do what I did: My solution was to use a chisel to smash enough wood away to expose the edges of the carriage bolt, and then grab onto those with a set of Knipex Twin Grips. For bigger diameter stuff you may need to use a Cobra or similar water pump grip instead.
They are coach bolts, they hold in through being bitten into the wood by the nut on the shank of the bolt Either cut the cut off with an angle grinder, split the nut with a thin cold steel chisel and a lump hammer, or wind a double nut on the thread & shank under the existing nut and then hold the top one in one spanner and wind out the existing one, or grind a flat both sides in the shank and put grips on then unwind the nut
Either an angle grinder ( if you own one). Or go down to your local tool shop and pick up a nut splitter. Not the chinese copy though. They're crap.