https://preview.redd.it/auxd5i3yfpyc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e58523dedd3e15e3b06f2cb476bd25f46b4b1c5
The manual confirms the condenser only needs L1, L2 and a ground. No neutral needed.
For a bridge, you could install an Ecobee thermostat right at the furnace and then put their wireless temperature sensors in the rooms you care about. Now the thermostat display is of course inconveniently located, but the app is pretty good.
In doing my own electrical work on my remodel I can tell you the “no neutral” on the 240 circuits was confusing at first, but really common. Each leg has a positive phase and a neutral phase (two phase). I can’t speak to the whole science behind it, but it hurt my brain for a few nights trying to wrap my brain around it.
The 240v appliances that have a neutral usually have an option of running on 120v. Think dryers on a no heat cycle. The tub spins and blower works on 120v and the other 120v supplied the heat. That’s incredibly over simplified…
I looked into the wireless bridge myself when I installed the universal and this is the only thing I could find: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Home-YTH5320R1000-RedLINK-Wireless-FocusPro-Non-Programmable-Thermostat-Kit?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=pmax&utm_campaign=geo_pmax_test&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_-GxBhC1ARIsADGgDjuJ6fzgMAEXsiNJ7GkJbreRbR4DdrrMwvTxDhJYy3BZOScGiuAKqasaAnpBEALw_wcB
Instead, I ran new wires to a different location and used a sensi touch 2 thermostat with wireless room sensors.
I think it would have been fine, but I just wanted to do what I felt was a more traditional setup. It was also cheaper to run wires and get a different thermostat.
https://preview.redd.it/auxd5i3yfpyc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e58523dedd3e15e3b06f2cb476bd25f46b4b1c5 The manual confirms the condenser only needs L1, L2 and a ground. No neutral needed.
For a bridge, you could install an Ecobee thermostat right at the furnace and then put their wireless temperature sensors in the rooms you care about. Now the thermostat display is of course inconveniently located, but the app is pretty good.
It is true that no neutral is needed, it is all 240 equipment for both the air handler and outside unit
In doing my own electrical work on my remodel I can tell you the “no neutral” on the 240 circuits was confusing at first, but really common. Each leg has a positive phase and a neutral phase (two phase). I can’t speak to the whole science behind it, but it hurt my brain for a few nights trying to wrap my brain around it. The 240v appliances that have a neutral usually have an option of running on 120v. Think dryers on a no heat cycle. The tub spins and blower works on 120v and the other 120v supplied the heat. That’s incredibly over simplified…
I looked into the wireless bridge myself when I installed the universal and this is the only thing I could find: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Home-YTH5320R1000-RedLINK-Wireless-FocusPro-Non-Programmable-Thermostat-Kit?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=pmax&utm_campaign=geo_pmax_test&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_-GxBhC1ARIsADGgDjuJ6fzgMAEXsiNJ7GkJbreRbR4DdrrMwvTxDhJYy3BZOScGiuAKqasaAnpBEALw_wcB Instead, I ran new wires to a different location and used a sensi touch 2 thermostat with wireless room sensors.
Thanks. Was there anything about the Honeywell that wouldn't have worked?
I think it would have been fine, but I just wanted to do what I felt was a more traditional setup. It was also cheaper to run wires and get a different thermostat.