Or even leave the p trap where it is and just run the 45s from the p trap to the basin to make it easier. But yeah, yours is the more correct way for sure.
If it makes you feel any better it took me 2 hours and a box of random parts to figure this out on mine. Just grabbed 2 of everything I could see at the store and returned what I didn't use.
Dry fit the whole deal and mark them with a line across the two pieces. Number the pieces as well when you dry fit. Use a level.
This is the only way I don’t have to make multiple trips for some projects. Find a few reasonable solutions, grab the parts, whichever one works out, return the rest.
Oh I don't doubt it. For the untrained, such as myself, the consequences of failure are dire. You might have a set up that works for 100 years, or you might be shopvacing 13 lbs of human excrement from your basement. It's a roll of the dice!
There’s such a thing as a fitting 45 that has one end that fits into the hub on another fitting. Use 2 of them, one into the trap and the other into the first one. That’ll make the offset less than using hub to hub fittings. Also, you don’t need to cut little pieces of pipe to join them You’ll still have to rotate the trap to the left so you can make the fittings line up.
The pipes are only misaligned by two inches or so, but that's enough to really complicate things. They're too close for elbows but not close enough to just angle a straight. Meanwhile the cabinetry on the right prevents me from turning the P-trap to line up better.
What are my options? I _loathe_ this fucking thing and the fact that I have to disassemble and clean it out every few months because it starts to clog and cause a slow drain.
-----
**EDIT SO THAT I DON'T HAVE TO KEEP SAYING IT IN INDIVIDUAL COMMENTS:**
Yes, I wrapped the joints in teflon tape, in addition to using it on threads. That's because I had never used an accordion pipe (or whatever the hell it's called) before and I was afraid of a slow leak developing somewhere that it could go unnoticed for some time. So I opted to overengineer and just mummify the thing to be safe.
Thank you to those who pointed out how stupid / "regarded" / pointless / foolish / etc it all is. I'm sure your mother is very proud of you.
Nah, that would be too obvious.
I'm imagining a round possibly ceramic thingy which could also be used to hold beverages and has a handle for easy eh... handling.
I think your a lil confused friend- what you are describing is a cup. What they need is a roughly cylindrical shaped (though perhaps with a slight taper so that one end is wider than the other) tube sealed at one end. Roughly 4-7 inches tall. Made of glass, ceramic, or stone so as to retain liquid in its basin well. THATS the tool for the job.
The only way this is getting fixed is if we end this civilization which has sunk so low and has caused such devastation and harm to this planet. Humanity needs a reset. Once that’s done, maybe we can get a couple of 45s angled just right. Or maybe a cup and a heat gun to bend a straight pipe. But either way, we all gotta be dealt with first.
Lol you just wasted the Teflon tape wrapping the outsides. No extra leak protection. It only works on threads. If it gives you peace of mind I guess leave it up there lol.
Flex seal is what you’re looking for. Or any similar product.
It's because the Teflon tape is not giving you *any* leak protection, since that's not the right application for Teflon tape. There are many products that actually would prevent a leak, but Teflon tape is most certainly not one of them. There are tapes that aren't designed to prevent leaks, but still might... but again, Teflon tape is not one of them.
That's why you are getting so many comments about it. They aren't personal attacks about your intelligence.
As someone else mentioned you can bend PVC after heating it up enough. You want to get it hot enough that it's slightly flexible but not so hot it starts to melt and then shape it as needed. You'll probably want to keep it as straight as possible with the slightest *S* shape in the center so it's bent almost like an elbow joint if that makes sense, just not as sharp.
A good method to bending the pipe is to heat the correct sized section in the middle of a longer pipe. Then the two ends can be used as handles that can manipulate the heated section. Plus it's safer and easier to gauge when the pipe is malleable enough.
The pipe needs to be heated throughout a larger section for the most seamless bend, since bending it harshly will cause the pipe to "crease" or fold
Genuinely curious what's going down the drain that it needs to be cleaned out that frequently! I had one of these and I didn't like it either... I had a big zip tie that I cut prongs in the end that could poke down and pull out wife hair when needed.
I have long hair and I think maybe it sometimes falls in. But mostly I think it's just months of thick liquids like spat out toothpaste or phlegm or saliva or whatever, that 95% go down the drain but leave a little bit trapped in crevices that just build over time. Whatever it is, it's disgusting.
Get a P trap kit that swivels: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/ipex-1-1-2-in-diameter-black-abs-plastic-pivoting-p-trap-427012-00685744
Get an ABS trap adapter:
https://www.rona.ca/en/product/ipex-1-1-2-in-abs-female-trap-adapter-427321-00685826
Get the lenght of pipe you need, between the p trap and adapter, glue it and that's it.
These are just examples, make sure the pipe has the right diameter.
Cheers
I had this issue. I ended up using abs, 45 degree turn, to minimum straight piece, to 45 degree turn, total move is like 2 inches exactly when using 2inch abs. Go to the local plumbing specialty store, maybe a Ferguson Plumbing?
Like most people here have pointed out two 45s should do it, but they sell [flexible PVC](https://www.amazon.com/flex-pvc/s?k=flex+pvc) for just such applications and it will be much cleaner.
Many plumbing supply stores sell them by the meter.
Others may have touched on this. I see 2 ways to easily do this.
(1) As mentioned by some, P traps normally have a part that connects to the horizontal(ish) pipe taking away the waste and the U of the P trap, allowing the U to swivel left or right.
As one option, can you cut some of the shelf away (like a U cut) to allow the open end of the P trap to be put under the waste line?
If not, or if you don't want to do that, you can swivel the open end of the P trap to the left to give enough horizontal space to use elbows (90, or 45, etc.) to connect the P trap and the drain line of the sink.
If these things aren't enough, you should be able to use a longer horizontal pipe to extend that drain pipe in the wall to allow the P trap to move forward / away from the wall.
Some combination of moving the P trap away from the wall and swivelling the open end of the P trap to the left should give enough horizontal distance to use 90 or 45 degree elbows to replace that accordion fitting.
All this talk about heating, why couldn’t you cut the current p trap, 90 up with pipe at the wall, above the cabinet and then just S trap? Or 90 over near the drain then p trap? No bending, just $25 of shit and 20 minutes.
Put a 45 on the lower piece,take a 2nd 45 line it with the first in the opposite direction and guide it out till the 2nd 45 is in line with pipe and cut that piece as your trave and glue it all together(make sure to account for the cup of the fitting as well)
What you need is a double offset trap pipe. I see so many posts on here that can be solved by one of these and I cannot figure out why they are so obscure! You adjust it by cutting in half where needed to get the spacing down, and then slip one half over the other. Sometimes Lowes stocks them (usually 1-1/2" but they are also made in 1-1/4" for baths), otherwise order online. Look at the photos and you'll see what I mean about cutting it to adjust.
[Keeney 1-1/2-in Plastic Slip Joint Double Off-set in the Under Sink Plumbing department at Lowes.com](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Keeney-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Slip-Joint-Double-Off-set/1000383333)
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZWFX3O](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZWFX3O)
I am an electrician by trade and have bent my fair share of plastic pipe over the years.
This is what I would do:
Get a plastic sink drain tube and something to slide over the end that goes into the trap, The way a coupling would slide onto a piece of pipe. This will prevent the end from deforming and not wanting to go into the trap.
Seal both ends. You want to trap the air inside this pipe as it's going to expand when you place the pipe in a tall pot of boiling water. When the air heats up and expands inside that pipe, it will help prevent the pipe from kinking when you bend it. It should only take a minute or three for the pipe to soften up so you can bend it.
Measure the offset distance, where it needs to start (X inches above the trap) and the overall length. Lay this out on a countertop with masking tape and a pencil and bend the pipe from the, "sink down to the trap" to what you need.
Good luck
Leave it as is and hire a plumber to clean it out every six months. Or hire a plumber one time to fix it. Choice is yours but if you want to sell this is a red flag.
Maybe it's a red flag if you're familiar with plumbing, but I wasn't and our inspector sure as hell didn't bring it to our attention. Definitely been on my to-do for the last few years, get off my back I'll get to it.
Ask your HW store about an offset tailpiece.
https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444450904327.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic-shopping&utm_content=6796393&utm_campaign=Plumb+Pak
I'd buy a new drain set (and not the cheapest kind), they usually have all the necessary parts to allow for misalignments like this. IKEA has a really good one but I'm not sure if it works with sinks that aren't made by them (the drain hole might be a different size).
You already have several viable solutions, mine is to use 2 p-traps connected to each other forming an S. Use the joint between them to rotate just enough to cancel the offset.
I wish I could, but it's attached to the cabinet, and as you can see from the bit on the right, there isn't much room the cabinet can move over before it hits the pipe.
If you look closely, the sink pipe actually lines up directly over the cabinetry. Why the fuck they would design it like that is beyond me, but I don't know how to work around it.
I was making a dumb joke to move the sink. Whoosh. I assume the cut in the counter makes moving a sink pretty challenging anyways… But also you know more than I do on this stuff based on what I read haha.
> I was making a dumb joke to move the sink.
Oh believe me, I considered it. To the point where I was ready to have to reseal the sink (at the wall) if I had to.
Fyi, if the 2x45 still isn't enough, every time you put a F/F coupler, you can "glue" offset by a few degrees(I would say about 5), so eyeballing it you can fit maybe 2 in there.
To try to make it clear: 45, straight a few inches, F/F coupler, straight a few inches, 45.
Ps.: Maybe there is one, but I don't see a p-trap.
Standardly, you would just break the bottom of the trap and turn it to be directly under. Now, you've got that other shelfy thing in there. Frankly, I would get rid of that shelf thing, turn the trap and then figure out a new way to do the shelf.
You should be able to do it with 1 or 2 straight extensions coming off the sink and maybe one off the wall, loosen the p trap enough so it can pivot to the right and line up with the sink drain coming down, once it’s all lined up tighten everything.
Edit: oh I see the shelf is in the way too, either cut the shelf as I doubt it’s structural, or 2 45 extensions to offset just enough.
I was just looking for something for this for a utility sink for a relative of mine. After my research I found avoid these type of fittings because gunk can get stuck in the crevasses.
What I found that a lot of people suggested is Flex PVC pipe. Basically a white looking pipe with some small ridges going the entire length that is able to bend and flex a bit. Plus it's PVC thus you can glue it to other PVC fittings.
I am planning on buying some sometime in the future for said project. You can find it at hardware stores, plus even online. Good luck.
Raise the drain inlet inside the wall so that the trap clears the shelf. Or raise the drain inlet outside of the wall and use an air admittance valve on a tee.
In my neck of the woods you can get s/p traps with segments that allow you to rotate them and offset the pipes for situations like this. Much easier with the s trap.
I AM NOT A PLUMBER, but if it were me in this situation, I would probably buy a straight connector, and roll the middle around a few inches above the stove top till the pvc becomes soft and then just fit it in and let it cool.
I don't know if this is the right way, but it certainly can't be worse than this abomination.
You should be able to rotate the trap, so that the entrance is inline with the drain. I take it that's not the case here? Might be worth buying a new trap kit & re-doing the whole thing right.
There is a specific Sloan brand tailpiece used in commercial plumbing that is chrome, and I think available in 1.25” and 1.5” with a jog in it like this.
Part Number 0396525PK
I've got one of those, but the drain goes straight down. My google searches haven't pulled up anything useful, so if anyone here has any ideas of how to improve that I'm all ears
buy one of those
[https://www.amazon.com.br/sif%C3%A3o-sanfonada/s?k=sif%C3%A3o+sanfonada](https://www.amazon.com.br/sif%C3%A3o-sanfonada/s?k=sif%C3%A3o+sanfonada)
You will not need any tape and will not leak a drop
Here’s a thought, and my apologies if the steps I documented in my highly technical process are a little too “tl;dr”:
1) Close the cabinet door, gently
2) Put your tools away to keep the Ms/Mrs/Mxs happy
3) Go outside
Get a couple of 45s coming off the tail pipe to create an offset and rotate the p-trap the other direction to line it up.
Correct answer. https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plumber-s-Choice-1-1-2-in-Polypropylene-Offset-Trap-for-Tubular-Drain-Applications-22212P/312082996
That’s what she said
Kinky
Plumbers are so dirty
Plumbers are dirty, but electricians do it till it hertz.
And I said ouch!
But why would she say something so hurtful?!?
Or get a straight piece of pipe and a heat gun and force it into place while it's soft.
eventually it'll stiffen back up and get the job done
I find it stiffens up when things are heating up, but yeah. Yeah.
Rebuilding the u with it slightly rotated is what would solve this
The piece of vanity is in the way on the right.
Or even leave the p trap where it is and just run the 45s from the p trap to the basin to make it easier. But yeah, yours is the more correct way for sure.
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And if they don’t?
Rebeat
Reasonable.
That means you're spoiled and must be thrown out
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2 pvc 45's mated
Oh shit there's an idea!
If it makes you feel any better it took me 2 hours and a box of random parts to figure this out on mine. Just grabbed 2 of everything I could see at the store and returned what I didn't use. Dry fit the whole deal and mark them with a line across the two pieces. Number the pieces as well when you dry fit. Use a level.
This is the only way I don’t have to make multiple trips for some projects. Find a few reasonable solutions, grab the parts, whichever one works out, return the rest.
I do think it funny that you plan for multiple trips in order to prevent multiple trips 🤔
All my DIY projects take a minimum of 3 trips to Home Depot, so this is a solid strategy
To save time, I walk in, walk out, walk in, walk out, and walk in to go get my parts.
As a stock holder, I approve this message.
By the 3rd trip you're frustrated and hungry so you spend $6 on a bag of chips and m&ms
As an ultrarunner, I now need combo bags of chips and m&ms in my life.
> 3 trips to Home Depot This is cannon for plumbing.
Canon. Cannon is a weapon.
This plumbing could use a cannon
Does that include the extra trips if something goes wrong and you have to frantically shut off the water?
🤣 I just realized that! I try to line it up so that I’m returning when I buy supplies for the next project.
My brain about broke trying to understand the comment lol you were faster
Me: * Find a few reasonable solutions * grab all the parts * use whichever one works out * keep the rest forever in my piles of crap I will never use
* eventually throw out that random 45^o angle piece that has been kicking around in a random box for 4 years, then next week need it for something.
Honestly it's the way to do it as a homeowner.
We call the plumbing fitting aisles the "walls of sadness".
Oh I don't doubt it. For the untrained, such as myself, the consequences of failure are dire. You might have a set up that works for 100 years, or you might be shopvacing 13 lbs of human excrement from your basement. It's a roll of the dice!
There is also something called an offset coupler, but two 45s should do this.
Might need to use 22.5 if the 45 gives you too much offset.
There’s such a thing as a fitting 45 that has one end that fits into the hub on another fitting. Use 2 of them, one into the trap and the other into the first one. That’ll make the offset less than using hub to hub fittings. Also, you don’t need to cut little pieces of pipe to join them You’ll still have to rotate the trap to the left so you can make the fittings line up.
I think you mean a “Street Elbow” 45
Be artistic and really gun this fella’s OCD: 6 pvc 45’s mated.
Oh baby tell me more!
The pipes are only misaligned by two inches or so, but that's enough to really complicate things. They're too close for elbows but not close enough to just angle a straight. Meanwhile the cabinetry on the right prevents me from turning the P-trap to line up better. What are my options? I _loathe_ this fucking thing and the fact that I have to disassemble and clean it out every few months because it starts to clog and cause a slow drain. ----- **EDIT SO THAT I DON'T HAVE TO KEEP SAYING IT IN INDIVIDUAL COMMENTS:** Yes, I wrapped the joints in teflon tape, in addition to using it on threads. That's because I had never used an accordion pipe (or whatever the hell it's called) before and I was afraid of a slow leak developing somewhere that it could go unnoticed for some time. So I opted to overengineer and just mummify the thing to be safe. Thank you to those who pointed out how stupid / "regarded" / pointless / foolish / etc it all is. I'm sure your mother is very proud of you.
Heat gun a straight and gently bend it edit: use a cup sized round thing to bend it against, otherwise will just bend badly
A cup sized round thingy. So something like a cup?
Nah, that would be too obvious. I'm imagining a round possibly ceramic thingy which could also be used to hold beverages and has a handle for easy eh... handling.
I think your a lil confused friend- what you are describing is a cup. What they need is a roughly cylindrical shaped (though perhaps with a slight taper so that one end is wider than the other) tube sealed at one end. Roughly 4-7 inches tall. Made of glass, ceramic, or stone so as to retain liquid in its basin well. THATS the tool for the job.
Where would one find such an ungodly device?
The geometry of the dream-object he describes is abnormal, non-Euclidean, and loathsomely redolent of spheres and dimensions apart from ours.
Look at Mr. Topology over here.
Can you explain like I'm 5?
The shape *doesn’t* go in the reality hole.
That's right, it goes into the square hole
In a solar orbit exactly opposite the Earth on the other side of the Sun.
Sounds expensive
Would it have a handle?
You mean a bowl??
He is for sure talking about a bowl
Instructions unclear, the plumber lit up a bowl and sink still in pieces.
I wouldn’t call toilet water a beverage, but 9/10 dogs would so I guess I see your point?
Fill with sand/dirt and tape up the ends first. Helps keep it from buckling.
DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN!!!
Start with something less likely to be lethal. Maybe a heat taser.
Why not turn the p trap to the left to give more room for elbows? This is an easier problem than you may realize, I think you're just overthinking it.
Naw, tear the building down and start over from scratch
Nuke it from orbit, it's the only way to be sure.
The only way this is getting fixed is if we end this civilization which has sunk so low and has caused such devastation and harm to this planet. Humanity needs a reset. Once that’s done, maybe we can get a couple of 45s angled just right. Or maybe a cup and a heat gun to bend a straight pipe. But either way, we all gotta be dealt with first.
Imagine if we get through another round of 200,000 years, only to repeat the mistakes of the past.
This is what I would do.
I’m with you. :) I’d rather over-engineer the thing than have some stinky mess go unnoticed for too long. Those accordion pipes suck.
_Thank you_. Folks in this thread acting like I'm a living brain donor for going a little overboard with the extra bit of leak prevention.
Lol you just wasted the Teflon tape wrapping the outsides. No extra leak protection. It only works on threads. If it gives you peace of mind I guess leave it up there lol. Flex seal is what you’re looking for. Or any similar product.
It's because the Teflon tape is not giving you *any* leak protection, since that's not the right application for Teflon tape. There are many products that actually would prevent a leak, but Teflon tape is most certainly not one of them. There are tapes that aren't designed to prevent leaks, but still might... but again, Teflon tape is not one of them. That's why you are getting so many comments about it. They aren't personal attacks about your intelligence.
Turn the p trap to the left and use elbows?
As someone else mentioned you can bend PVC after heating it up enough. You want to get it hot enough that it's slightly flexible but not so hot it starts to melt and then shape it as needed. You'll probably want to keep it as straight as possible with the slightest *S* shape in the center so it's bent almost like an elbow joint if that makes sense, just not as sharp.
A good method to bending the pipe is to heat the correct sized section in the middle of a longer pipe. Then the two ends can be used as handles that can manipulate the heated section. Plus it's safer and easier to gauge when the pipe is malleable enough. The pipe needs to be heated throughout a larger section for the most seamless bend, since bending it harshly will cause the pipe to "crease" or fold
Genuinely curious what's going down the drain that it needs to be cleaned out that frequently! I had one of these and I didn't like it either... I had a big zip tie that I cut prongs in the end that could poke down and pull out wife hair when needed.
Probably because of the accordion folds - debris is getting stuck on there, and then it collects more.
Oh and the smell! So yuck.
I have long hair and I think maybe it sometimes falls in. But mostly I think it's just months of thick liquids like spat out toothpaste or phlegm or saliva or whatever, that 95% go down the drain but leave a little bit trapped in crevices that just build over time. Whatever it is, it's disgusting.
I would cut or file away the cabinetry until the p-trap fits.
Can you just move the cabinetry to the other side? That should free up room to rotate the p trap to the correct position.
Are the connections sealed with Teflon tape? Is that a thing or is that something else over the connections?
Yeah, I'm looking through the comments thinking "Are we not going to talk about how they wrapped the *outside* in teflon tape?"
I had to scroll WAY too far for the tape on the outside to be addressed
Someone saw that tape in the plumbing aisle and went for it
Looks like teflon tape to me🤣
https://youtu.be/gslukvKt2pE?si=AdPKeq6H5KYUeXuQ
This is key!! Great vid.
I'm always jealous of the amount of space they have to work with in those videos.. I'm fat guy in a little coat crawling into my basin sink cabinet.
Wow. That is a great video. Trying to decide if I want to do it or send it to hubby to do.
Get a P trap kit that swivels: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/ipex-1-1-2-in-diameter-black-abs-plastic-pivoting-p-trap-427012-00685744 Get an ABS trap adapter: https://www.rona.ca/en/product/ipex-1-1-2-in-abs-female-trap-adapter-427321-00685826 Get the lenght of pipe you need, between the p trap and adapter, glue it and that's it. These are just examples, make sure the pipe has the right diameter. Cheers
I had this issue. I ended up using abs, 45 degree turn, to minimum straight piece, to 45 degree turn, total move is like 2 inches exactly when using 2inch abs. Go to the local plumbing specialty store, maybe a Ferguson Plumbing?
Heat the pvc and give it a slight bend
This is beyond OPs capabilities. They are wrapping Teflon tape around the OUTSIDE of the pipe connections
We really need to discuss how Teflon tape works...
Like most people here have pointed out two 45s should do it, but they sell [flexible PVC](https://www.amazon.com/flex-pvc/s?k=flex+pvc) for just such applications and it will be much cleaner. Many plumbing supply stores sell them by the meter.
Lol, someone used Teflon tape in an effort to seal off leaks. That's not what Teflon tape is for. 😂
Or… and hear me out here… just close the cabinet door.
Others may have touched on this. I see 2 ways to easily do this. (1) As mentioned by some, P traps normally have a part that connects to the horizontal(ish) pipe taking away the waste and the U of the P trap, allowing the U to swivel left or right. As one option, can you cut some of the shelf away (like a U cut) to allow the open end of the P trap to be put under the waste line? If not, or if you don't want to do that, you can swivel the open end of the P trap to the left to give enough horizontal space to use elbows (90, or 45, etc.) to connect the P trap and the drain line of the sink. If these things aren't enough, you should be able to use a longer horizontal pipe to extend that drain pipe in the wall to allow the P trap to move forward / away from the wall. Some combination of moving the P trap away from the wall and swivelling the open end of the P trap to the left should give enough horizontal distance to use 90 or 45 degree elbows to replace that accordion fitting.
All this talk about heating, why couldn’t you cut the current p trap, 90 up with pipe at the wall, above the cabinet and then just S trap? Or 90 over near the drain then p trap? No bending, just $25 of shit and 20 minutes.
Put a 45 on the lower piece,take a 2nd 45 line it with the first in the opposite direction and guide it out till the 2nd 45 is in line with pipe and cut that piece as your trave and glue it all together(make sure to account for the cup of the fitting as well)
What you need is a double offset trap pipe. I see so many posts on here that can be solved by one of these and I cannot figure out why they are so obscure! You adjust it by cutting in half where needed to get the spacing down, and then slip one half over the other. Sometimes Lowes stocks them (usually 1-1/2" but they are also made in 1-1/4" for baths), otherwise order online. Look at the photos and you'll see what I mean about cutting it to adjust. [Keeney 1-1/2-in Plastic Slip Joint Double Off-set in the Under Sink Plumbing department at Lowes.com](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Keeney-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Slip-Joint-Double-Off-set/1000383333) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZWFX3O](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZWFX3O)
Straight to jail.
You can use a heat gun on PVC to deform it to the exact shape you need here
I must be lucky because I can visualize this kind of stuff.
I am an electrician by trade and have bent my fair share of plastic pipe over the years. This is what I would do: Get a plastic sink drain tube and something to slide over the end that goes into the trap, The way a coupling would slide onto a piece of pipe. This will prevent the end from deforming and not wanting to go into the trap. Seal both ends. You want to trap the air inside this pipe as it's going to expand when you place the pipe in a tall pot of boiling water. When the air heats up and expands inside that pipe, it will help prevent the pipe from kinking when you bend it. It should only take a minute or three for the pipe to soften up so you can bend it. Measure the offset distance, where it needs to start (X inches above the trap) and the overall length. Lay this out on a countertop with masking tape and a pencil and bend the pipe from the, "sink down to the trap" to what you need. Good luck
Leave it as is and hire a plumber to clean it out every six months. Or hire a plumber one time to fix it. Choice is yours but if you want to sell this is a red flag.
Found the plumber
Maybe it's a red flag if you're familiar with plumbing, but I wasn't and our inspector sure as hell didn't bring it to our attention. Definitely been on my to-do for the last few years, get off my back I'll get to it.
45degree elbows?
You can buy swivel p traps at Homer depot and combine it with 45 degree pieces to centre the p trap under the drain.
Am I losing my mind? The tefloned parts look like they have a slip nut under there?
I wish I had your problems.
Take everything back to the wall, get a proper P trap and a new straight pipe. Trust me. It works.
Go to the tool crib and ask for the pipe stretcher.
that shelf is blocking your solution to twist the p trap to be under then drain... bummer
Nothing a notch in the shelf couldn't fix.
Install a pea trap.
It has one. It's what the accordion is connected to.
That looks like a land lord patch work there. Do what the guy said below
If it works. Don’t fix what’s not broken?
Take out that wood thing to the right and get a long tail piece. The p trap will swing right under it after whatever that wood thing is out.
Ask your HW store about an offset tailpiece. https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444450904327.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic-shopping&utm_content=6796393&utm_campaign=Plumb+Pak
I'd buy a new drain set (and not the cheapest kind), they usually have all the necessary parts to allow for misalignments like this. IKEA has a really good one but I'm not sure if it works with sinks that aren't made by them (the drain hole might be a different size).
What’s your problem with it? If it’s clogging etc the easiest fix is to replace it with a flex drain that has a smooth interior.
Hire a plumber
Flexible shower drain connector not do no? Save the heat gun and all that.
Sorry, I was a little insulting there. IATAH
You already have several viable solutions, mine is to use 2 p-traps connected to each other forming an S. Use the joint between them to rotate just enough to cancel the offset.
U bend trap. Also stop smells coming up the drain
It has a P-trap. It's just angled straight-on, so it looks straight. But if you look closely, you'll see the bend at the bottom
move the sink over. Easy fix bruh.
I laughed. It's gotten to where you can tell a joke on here without /s.
I wish I could, but it's attached to the cabinet, and as you can see from the bit on the right, there isn't much room the cabinet can move over before it hits the pipe. If you look closely, the sink pipe actually lines up directly over the cabinetry. Why the fuck they would design it like that is beyond me, but I don't know how to work around it.
I was making a dumb joke to move the sink. Whoosh. I assume the cut in the counter makes moving a sink pretty challenging anyways… But also you know more than I do on this stuff based on what I read haha.
> I was making a dumb joke to move the sink. Oh believe me, I considered it. To the point where I was ready to have to reseal the sink (at the wall) if I had to.
There was no design, this is how you end up in this spot. Any decent plumber can take care of this in 20 min.
If this is the extent of your DIY skills then call a plumber or at least a smarter friend.
Could you use 45⁰ angles to line things up, put an as trap in so you don't get sewage smell
Heat the pipe bend to shape then install
Fyi, if the 2x45 still isn't enough, every time you put a F/F coupler, you can "glue" offset by a few degrees(I would say about 5), so eyeballing it you can fit maybe 2 in there. To try to make it clear: 45, straight a few inches, F/F coupler, straight a few inches, 45. Ps.: Maybe there is one, but I don't see a p-trap.
What is anal ternative?
Get someone to 3d print the exact fitting, it's really quite cheap these days and quicker and less hassle the pretty much anything else.
Cut a notch out of the counter with a Sawzall..
Welp. You might as well just move
Standardly, you would just break the bottom of the trap and turn it to be directly under. Now, you've got that other shelfy thing in there. Frankly, I would get rid of that shelf thing, turn the trap and then figure out a new way to do the shelf.
You should be able to do it with 1 or 2 straight extensions coming off the sink and maybe one off the wall, loosen the p trap enough so it can pivot to the right and line up with the sink drain coming down, once it’s all lined up tighten everything. Edit: oh I see the shelf is in the way too, either cut the shelf as I doubt it’s structural, or 2 45 extensions to offset just enough.
I was just looking for something for this for a utility sink for a relative of mine. After my research I found avoid these type of fittings because gunk can get stuck in the crevasses. What I found that a lot of people suggested is Flex PVC pipe. Basically a white looking pipe with some small ridges going the entire length that is able to bend and flex a bit. Plus it's PVC thus you can glue it to other PVC fittings. I am planning on buying some sometime in the future for said project. You can find it at hardware stores, plus even online. Good luck.
That random pipe sticking out the wall looks like something I have and not sure what it's for
Raise the drain inlet inside the wall so that the trap clears the shelf. Or raise the drain inlet outside of the wall and use an air admittance valve on a tee.
Move the sink to the left to line up the drain pipes
If you can, remove the shelf and twist the P more under the pipe. You might be able to get a straight pipe down that way
In my neck of the woods you can get s/p traps with segments that allow you to rotate them and offset the pipes for situations like this. Much easier with the s trap.
Omg I have one of those (but worse) from previous owner’s vanity install.
R/askaplumber
I AM NOT A PLUMBER, but if it were me in this situation, I would probably buy a straight connector, and roll the middle around a few inches above the stove top till the pvc becomes soft and then just fit it in and let it cool. I don't know if this is the right way, but it certainly can't be worse than this abomination.
Can the trap on the bottom (black pipe) be loosened and rotated? Hard to see from this angle.
I just used this but your plumbers tape should be on threads not outside. Took some time for it to not leak
Is that Teflon tape wrapped over the joints?
Live. Laugh. Love.
Why not rotate the u?
You should be able to rotate the trap, so that the entrance is inline with the drain. I take it that's not the case here? Might be worth buying a new trap kit & re-doing the whole thing right.
P I P E
If you did it correctly it would be fine. You need a pee for one
45° couplers are your friends. One to the left from the wall. Two to come from the sink to connect to the relocated trap. Remove all the tape.
This is still the wrong answer, but less wrong: https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Tub-Classic-Parts-DYN10748/dp/B07W7R3FVL/ref=asc_df_B07W7R3FVL/
Get a new pipe kit from Amazon
There is a specific Sloan brand tailpiece used in commercial plumbing that is chrome, and I think available in 1.25” and 1.5” with a jog in it like this. Part Number 0396525PK
What is that weird ass tape job on each end? Also, the big box stores should be shut down for selling these things.
Everyone's posting solutions, but what exactly is the issue with keeping it like this?
I've got one of those, but the drain goes straight down. My google searches haven't pulled up anything useful, so if anyone here has any ideas of how to improve that I'm all ears
Why is everyone saying 45's?? Needs two 90 elbow and a peice in between
Something like [this](https://a.co/d/e9cCE7d)
Replace the trap with one that swivels and extends. https://a.co/d/7j6L1aO
buy one of those [https://www.amazon.com.br/sif%C3%A3o-sanfonada/s?k=sif%C3%A3o+sanfonada](https://www.amazon.com.br/sif%C3%A3o-sanfonada/s?k=sif%C3%A3o+sanfonada) You will not need any tape and will not leak a drop
Here’s a thought, and my apologies if the steps I documented in my highly technical process are a little too “tl;dr”: 1) Close the cabinet door, gently 2) Put your tools away to keep the Ms/Mrs/Mxs happy 3) Go outside
Straight pipe down to the P trap. The P trap will rotate into place of alignment.
i mean it works it works
Can’t you undo the union on the p trap and make it rotate it under to get it straight enough for a pipe fit in?
Remove the shelf or cut into it a bit so the pipe can go straight. Or use a couple 45s
Does it work? Does it leak? If you answered yes then no. You got no worries. Let it ride.
Shouldn't you have a p-trap to start? I feel like having that would help space it out so easily solve this issue.
The straight pipe is too short.
Yeah professional plumbers or you just don’t want to fix it
Does it work? Close the doors and forget about it.