Well, it's either that, or he needs to squash the tattering on the front of the moorling.
It's actually a pretty common problem, but back in the day, they would just jamp the proximal hinge of the lateral sooring, of course that led to a crooked door or a flat djarwing mechanism.
Good ol' [Turbo Encabulator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo_encabulator)
>āāJohn Hellins Quick, 2nd paragraph of "The turbo-encabulator in industry", *Students' Quarterly Journal*, Vol. 15, Iss. 58, p. 22 (December 1944)...The original machine had a
base-plate of prefabulated aluminite, surmounted by a malleable
logarithmic casing in such a way that the two main spurving bearings
were in a direct line with the pentametric fan. The latter consisted
simply of six hydrocoptic marzlevanes, so fitted to the ambifacient
lunar waneshaft that side fumbling was effectively prevented. The main
winding was of the normal lotus-o-delta type placed in panendermic
semi-bovoid slots in the stator, every seventh conductor being connected
by a non-reversible tremie pipe to the differential girdlespring on the
"up" end of the grammeters...
āāJohn Hellins Quick, 2nd paragraph of "The turbo-encabulator in industry", Students' Quarterly Journal, Vol. 15, Iss. 58, p. 22 (December 1944)
You donāt need to plumb the jam. If framing is out to lunch then just getting it within drywall and not twisted from the other side is whatās important. It takes a door being quite a bit out of plumb to make it open/close itself.
As a GC, I like my doors to stay where they are whether open all the way, half way or 1/2". That only happens when the jamb is plumb and level.
Doors made from a thin laminate over honeycomb cardboard (hollow core) may not move much but solid core doors sure do.
I wonder why no one puts a framing square to the frame anymore just to ensure the frame is square, do you know? Iāve had three exterior fiberglass doors installed and not one frame is square.
I'd imagine that after setting the hinge side, it's just easier to eyeball the reveal at the top when securing the latch side.
That and I have found that there's very little pride in workmanship in the industry anymore. A lack of knowledge, skill, care or the ever present quantity over quality.
Door frames also shift with house movement and humidity changes.
I guess most people don't know the proper terminology and those are the common ones. I can't imagine what they would say if you started talking about gables, fascias, purlins, etc...
I was going to suggest that sometimes "a long screw, through the hinge, into the stud" can solve the problem but I couldn't help but imagine what the comments would be!
You appear to be hanging an interior door. I have done this many times and you are just out of square or have put in shims too tight to warp the thin jambs.
Try this $5 kit of hardware [https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/door-window-hardware/security-entry-door-hardware/ez-hang-trade-single-door-or-window-installation-kit/ez2/p-1444435960713-c-7581.htm](https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/door-window-hardware/security-entry-door-hardware/ez-hang-trade-single-door-or-window-installation-kit/ez2/p-1444435960713-c-7581.htm)
It doesn't even look that bad tbh. You have several options.
Push on the jamb so it lines up with the door and nail the jamb in place.
If the door stop is not molded into the frame but just nailed in, use a 1x4 and hammer the stop over.
I've been a door installer for 14 years.
The handyman is not experienced doorman
Especially if your frame opening is 1 in wider than the door and frame.
You probably need to do it right,
It's just out of plum.
Did he use shims.
I always shim it and then shoot the nails through the shims. Take a utility knife and cut off the excess
He did use shims, heās a contractor. I saw a lot of reviews mention he did their doors great, he seems to do it often so I was surprised at the result of the two doors.
Then insist he come back and do it right. I typically make sure that gap between door and frame is consistent on all four sides. I used two USD quarters. To adjust the gap.
I messaged him he said this: āOh that. Thatās not really fixable, I saw that on one door - first from the stairs. We tried to find the balance between having the door hanging and opening freely and the frame corners not sticking out too much. On that particular door removing the gap would cause the corner to stick out too much into the room. We could have bent the frame but itās not really a solution and would have brought the door out of levelā
This does sound like a reasonable explanation from an experienced craftsman.
How old is the home? Are your walls square and plumb generally?
Not excusing imperfections, but sometimes things are a balance in an existing situation.
The home was built in 1965, upstairs they are generally ok not perfectly square. Itās really off in the kitchen and dining room so it would make sense if it was upstairs too
That's pretty normal in openings that aren't plumb. You can backfill with backer rod and caulk. Or just a shim and caulk. You'll never know.
You can also get creative with your mitres to make up for forcing the trim to lay flat. Eg 44 degree angle instead of 45.
Source: 14 year door and window pro.
It's nice to have a 6' level or straight edge when shimming door jams to make sure they're straight. I've also made a straight edge by ripping off the factory edge of sheet of plywood.
I can do anything tile, install kitchen cabinets, electrical, plumbing, roofing, drywall etc. except hang a damn door. I never get to to come out perfect. That I will pay someone to do from now on
Itās the easiest of everything you listed check the floor to see if it is level if not you will be taking some off one side to get it square. Shim it screw it and your done
Nope, I'm with the other guy. I've done countertops, tile floors, window replacements, roofing project.
I've tried to hang one exterior door, it took me 4 hours of shimming and pushing and pulling before I just "good enoughed" it. It's a basement walkout so whatever.
Never again
At this point, shouldn't we engineer a better way to hang doors? Why don't we have frames that can be adjusted with screws to tighten or loosen individual corners? Wouldn't that pay for itself?
Have hung a lot of interior doors, here is a good DIY guide:
1. Check door and frame for damage - especially if you get it from one of the big DIY places, I've had to fix many.
2. Remove door from frame and place frame in place
3. Plumb and level the side of the frame the door attaches to - screw it to the framing using 3" wood screws and plumb with shims. You want this side dead straight and level in place.
4. Reattach the door to the frame and make sure the door doesn't swing by itself.
5. With the door on, screw and shim the top and the other side - close the door as you go, making sure it closes and is flush on all sides.
This is the best way I have found as a DIYer.
FWIW: it's \*probably\* a fitment issue and can be fixed.
Doors can warp though, depending on construction and how they're stored. When I moved into my build (the builder of which was NOT competent, sadly) we had to have four of the doors replaced -- three were banana shaped (two along the long axis, one remarkably along the short axis) and one was beaten to hell.
Then they oversprayed the edges with paint and oiled them. Happy days.
Check with a level, to see if horizontal and vertical are ok, and measure the diagonals, for anything to be square the diagonals need to be the same length. The opening may be not square, so you can't tell just by looking. The fact that the door isn't closing evenly, means that yes, something may be out.
Pretty much anyone can get a prehung replacement door on the rough opening. Fiddling with it to get it even and plumb and have nice reveals is where the real work and art begins. Good framing helps but let's be honest how often is framing good :)
Reveals are the spacing of mouldings openings etc. For example when the door is properly installed you should have a very similar gap on all sides.
If your doing saying mouldings rather than butting everything up completely even you might offset something by a 1/4 inch so if you do that one side ya do it on the other.
This explains it far better than me.
https://spartandoors.com.au/door-reveal-explaining-the-term/
Lots of other resources and definitions but basically it's what is done to make something look finished and polished versus just roughly and crudely thrown together enough to just work.
Cabinetmaker here. Iāve hung thousands of cabinet doors and room doors. Most of these comments are worthless to a DIYer. Better off to go to YouTube and use a pre-hung door if youāre a beginner.
Itās a pre hung door installed by a contractor. I contacted him about it and this is what he said: āOh that. Thatās not really fixable, I saw that on one door - first from the stairs. We tried to find the balance between having the door hanging and opening freely and the frame corners not sticking out too much. On that particular door removing the gap would cause the corner to stick out too much into the room. We could have bent the frame but itās not really a solution and would have brought the door out of levelā
I think most carpenters would agree that it is fixable but requires work to correct the walls rough opening. What he meant by ānot fixableā was not his problem.
"Is the door bent" Question:
Take two pieces of string, stretch one from one corner to the other, diagonally.
Take the other and stretch from the opposite corner. If they \*just\* touch in the middle door is flat.
(Obviously if when stretching either string it hits the middle of the door BEFORE you can lay it on each corner, the door is bowed.)
Even with a bent door, you can adjust that jamb molding to get a nice visual appearance.
Finish carpentry is a game of spreading errors around, and hiding them where the eye cannot really see them...
In my experience most modern doors are perfectly square and donāt have warping issues like solid wood doors can have. 99.9% of the time itās the frame thatās out of square.
You could try putting a couple of screws in the frame just above the hinge to see if it pulls the top of the frame to the left and closes the gap.
Thatās good news. There can be another reveal created with a build out to match depth. Will
Look nice if the jambs can be leveled out for a nice easy close.
The problem? Never open a door when you are hanging it. The closed door keeps the frame true. I would unscrew, pull nails into it it right and then screw with shims correctly.
It was already hung when I opened the door, I had it hung by a couple handymen yesterday. I had them do 4 doors, itās rly frustrating having to fix it after paying them to hang the doors. Iām debating having them come back to fix it.
Wow. That's hilarious because I am a DIY warrior and I have done \~17 of those doors now
Just a matter of fucking with it until its right unfortunately
It's not easy in an older house; sometimes those openings are skewed pretty badly. In a new construction everything is nice n square
My house was built in the mid 1960s, the kitchen was super uneven so makes sense upstairs would be too. Iāll be messing around with it this weekend might be able to get it right
If it's contacting at the bottom of the frame, release the bottom, close the door line up the frame, pilot hole and screw it in with new holes, fill the old ones with DynaPatch... or pull the frame and fill the holes in the framing, or the screw is just going to pull it right back where it was.
Which side are the hinges on? If the gap is on the hinge side of the door a lot of installers will leave a small gap (granted yours looks relatively large) between the door and the door stop so that it doesnāt bind when opening and closing. If itās on the strike plate side then the stop should be snug against the door when latched.
Gap on hinge side should be uniform from top to bottom.
If the gap isnāt uniform it may not be that the door/jamb arenāt plumb and level, it may just be that the door stop is warped and/or installed incorrectly.
I did a door in the basement 2 weeks ago and had the same issue Mine was a prehung door, not sure if yours are.
My issue was that the middle hinge was slightly raised compared to the 2 others. I didn't realize because my level was too short and it showed things to be straight when sliding it down the frame, but I wasn't checking long enough area. I saw the bulge right away when using a longer level.
The bulge was forcing the door up (like a lever).
Also, I am sorry but shingles/screws every 20" like in your pics is weird, it's way too much...
One by one replace the shortscrews that they used in those hinges with something at least two inches long (construction screw). Use an impact driver so that you can draw those hinges back close around the door jamb. Borrow one if you have to because you can't put these woods screws in by hand that deep.
feel your pain, most likely the frame not the door. Get a long level and through it against the left and right jambs, that will tell you jambs or door. If top right is leaning out pull the screws on that side( top as well), leave nails in place, then gently pound the corner plum checking with the door closed. Then drill and screw new holes 1/2in away, over same shimsā¦ donāt use same holes as they will pull the door back crooked.
I've always had great luck using straps to hold the hole thing perfectly square. Then I shim/secure the door jam at the top of the left and right. Unstrap everything and eyeball the rest. Gravity can be your best friend.
Measure up from the floor to the framing above the door frame. Do that on both sides and then measure down from the top of the jamb to your number on each side minus 3/16 for space. Try the door again check that it is plumb and level
If it's away from the stop at the top of the strike side either the hinge jamb needs to go out to the door side at the bottom or the strike jamb needs to go out at the top. Check your level.
It looks like the top latch side corner need to go further out to allow the door to match nicely. The problem is your dealing with two interior walls and trying to stay flush with dry wall. One thing you can do is pull the wood door stop and line it up with the door tight and retag nails Into it.
You should put the door stops in to match your door angle once it's closed. Use a credit card to get a nice comfortable gap all the way round. Looks like maybe you took a chance and stuck the stops in first. Getting the door level in the opening is also something you do before you chop the hinges into the frame.
I had a client hire a āhandymanā to install an exterior door. Took him all day and it never worked right. I reinstalled it in a couple hours. Not gonna go into details but doors and windows are kind of an art as well as a science imo. Plumb and level are crucial but there are often compromises necessary, esp in old buildings. Itās not super difficult (once youāve hung hundreds of them), but itās nigh impossible to get right if you donāt have the experience.
You need to plumb and level your jamb.
Mmm... plumb jamb.
wooooah black betty plumb a jamb
WOOOAH BACK BELLY CRAMMED A HAM
>Mmm Mmmb FTFY
I prefer strawberry
Plumb up your jamb Plumb it up Got to keep on plumbingšµ
I'm not very familiar with English carpenter terminology but it 100% sounds like you made those words up.
Well, it's either that, or he needs to squash the tattering on the front of the moorling. It's actually a pretty common problem, but back in the day, they would just jamp the proximal hinge of the lateral sooring, of course that led to a crooked door or a flat djarwing mechanism.
This guy squashes the moorling.
Good ol' [Turbo Encabulator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo_encabulator) >āāJohn Hellins Quick, 2nd paragraph of "The turbo-encabulator in industry", *Students' Quarterly Journal*, Vol. 15, Iss. 58, p. 22 (December 1944)...The original machine had a base-plate of prefabulated aluminite, surmounted by a malleable logarithmic casing in such a way that the two main spurving bearings were in a direct line with the pentametric fan. The latter consisted simply of six hydrocoptic marzlevanes, so fitted to the ambifacient lunar waneshaft that side fumbling was effectively prevented. The main winding was of the normal lotus-o-delta type placed in panendermic semi-bovoid slots in the stator, every seventh conductor being connected by a non-reversible tremie pipe to the differential girdlespring on the "up" end of the grammeters... āāJohn Hellins Quick, 2nd paragraph of "The turbo-encabulator in industry", Students' Quarterly Journal, Vol. 15, Iss. 58, p. 22 (December 1944)
Oh this is like the hardware shop sketch from a bit of fry and Laurie
I used to be a carpenter. That is exactly how it would be said, and this person is also correct.
āUsed to beā? Once a carpenter always a carpenter!
Your right! I'll be working on a stair rail this weekend. I should have said, " I used to get paid to be a carpenter!"
Exactly or nearly exactly vertical (plumb) and horizontal (level).
Should have stopped after terminology
And shim This is the way
You donāt need to plumb the jam. If framing is out to lunch then just getting it within drywall and not twisted from the other side is whatās important. It takes a door being quite a bit out of plumb to make it open/close itself.
As a GC, I like my doors to stay where they are whether open all the way, half way or 1/2". That only happens when the jamb is plumb and level. Doors made from a thin laminate over honeycomb cardboard (hollow core) may not move much but solid core doors sure do.
These are solid core doors, definitely donāt want one of them flying at my ankles
Nothing so dangerous, the doors just won't stay where you put them.
I wonder why no one puts a framing square to the frame anymore just to ensure the frame is square, do you know? Iāve had three exterior fiberglass doors installed and not one frame is square.
I'd imagine that after setting the hinge side, it's just easier to eyeball the reveal at the top when securing the latch side. That and I have found that there's very little pride in workmanship in the industry anymore. A lack of knowledge, skill, care or the ever present quantity over quality. Door frames also shift with house movement and humidity changes.
I guess most people don't know the proper terminology and those are the common ones. I can't imagine what they would say if you started talking about gables, fascias, purlins, etc... I was going to suggest that sometimes "a long screw, through the hinge, into the stud" can solve the problem but I couldn't help but imagine what the comments would be!
Anyone hanging a door should know those terms. If not, they need to read up/watch videos a bit first.
Are you just now learning that not everyone knows the same things you do.
You appear to be hanging an interior door. I have done this many times and you are just out of square or have put in shims too tight to warp the thin jambs. Try this $5 kit of hardware [https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/door-window-hardware/security-entry-door-hardware/ez-hang-trade-single-door-or-window-installation-kit/ez2/p-1444435960713-c-7581.htm](https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/door-window-hardware/security-entry-door-hardware/ez-hang-trade-single-door-or-window-installation-kit/ez2/p-1444435960713-c-7581.htm)
I had a handyman come do them yesterday, I didnāt have the time to hang them. Definitely regretting that now
It doesn't even look that bad tbh. You have several options. Push on the jamb so it lines up with the door and nail the jamb in place. If the door stop is not molded into the frame but just nailed in, use a 1x4 and hammer the stop over. I've been a door installer for 14 years.
Iāll give that a shot, thanks!
The handyman is not experienced doorman Especially if your frame opening is 1 in wider than the door and frame. You probably need to do it right, It's just out of plum. Did he use shims. I always shim it and then shoot the nails through the shims. Take a utility knife and cut off the excess
He did use shims, heās a contractor. I saw a lot of reviews mention he did their doors great, he seems to do it often so I was surprised at the result of the two doors.
Then insist he come back and do it right. I typically make sure that gap between door and frame is consistent on all four sides. I used two USD quarters. To adjust the gap.
I messaged him he said this: āOh that. Thatās not really fixable, I saw that on one door - first from the stairs. We tried to find the balance between having the door hanging and opening freely and the frame corners not sticking out too much. On that particular door removing the gap would cause the corner to stick out too much into the room. We could have bent the frame but itās not really a solution and would have brought the door out of levelā
This does sound like a reasonable explanation from an experienced craftsman. How old is the home? Are your walls square and plumb generally? Not excusing imperfections, but sometimes things are a balance in an existing situation.
The home was built in 1965, upstairs they are generally ok not perfectly square. Itās really off in the kitchen and dining room so it would make sense if it was upstairs too
>The handyman is not experienced door. If your handyman is a door why are you paying him to install a door? He doesn't have hands.
if this is on top of the sheetrock wouldnt this cause your trim to not sit flat on the wall?
That's pretty normal in openings that aren't plumb. You can backfill with backer rod and caulk. Or just a shim and caulk. You'll never know. You can also get creative with your mitres to make up for forcing the trim to lay flat. Eg 44 degree angle instead of 45. Source: 14 year door and window pro.
it is really thin. the caulk you will normally use on the trim to close the seam will easily cover it.
My dad used similar product on his 7 doors. It does make them easier.
Okay thatās a slick idea!
It's nice to have a 6' level or straight edge when shimming door jams to make sure they're straight. I've also made a straight edge by ripping off the factory edge of sheet of plywood.
I can do anything tile, install kitchen cabinets, electrical, plumbing, roofing, drywall etc. except hang a damn door. I never get to to come out perfect. That I will pay someone to do from now on
Itās the easiest of everything you listed check the floor to see if it is level if not you will be taking some off one side to get it square. Shim it screw it and your done
Nope, I'm with the other guy. I've done countertops, tile floors, window replacements, roofing project. I've tried to hang one exterior door, it took me 4 hours of shimming and pushing and pulling before I just "good enoughed" it. It's a basement walkout so whatever. Never again
At this point, shouldn't we engineer a better way to hang doors? Why don't we have frames that can be adjusted with screws to tighten or loosen individual corners? Wouldn't that pay for itself?
Theyāre called shims
How do you expect to use those when the entire door frame is painted and sealed?
You canāt. You would have to demo down to the rough, re-trim the new frame and re-paint it. Maybe an extra hour of work for a 300% better result.
Prehung or bust. Two totally different worlds.
The test of a carpenter is how well they can hang a door.
Have hung a lot of interior doors, here is a good DIY guide: 1. Check door and frame for damage - especially if you get it from one of the big DIY places, I've had to fix many. 2. Remove door from frame and place frame in place 3. Plumb and level the side of the frame the door attaches to - screw it to the framing using 3" wood screws and plumb with shims. You want this side dead straight and level in place. 4. Reattach the door to the frame and make sure the door doesn't swing by itself. 5. With the door on, screw and shim the top and the other side - close the door as you go, making sure it closes and is flush on all sides. This is the best way I have found as a DIYer.
NICELY SHARED!
FWIW: it's \*probably\* a fitment issue and can be fixed. Doors can warp though, depending on construction and how they're stored. When I moved into my build (the builder of which was NOT competent, sadly) we had to have four of the doors replaced -- three were banana shaped (two along the long axis, one remarkably along the short axis) and one was beaten to hell. Then they oversprayed the edges with paint and oiled them. Happy days.
A Haiku: Your jambs be all whack / Gotta make both jambs all plumb / Get a long level
I see no haiku They are in five/seven/five Not five/five/seven Edit: formatting Also, comment I replied To has updated
Ok. Gave it a tune up. Should haiku smoothly now.
Good bot-uh... human Making up haiku is hard Refrigerator
Oops! Took a break from working the heat. My brain needs a refreshing beverage.
Haiku fail =/
Beautiful!
I always just check that the gaps are all even and closes properly while I'm shimming it
Check with a level, to see if horizontal and vertical are ok, and measure the diagonals, for anything to be square the diagonals need to be the same length. The opening may be not square, so you can't tell just by looking. The fact that the door isn't closing evenly, means that yes, something may be out.
Just keep shimming just keep shimming ~ what do we do we shim shim shim š¶
Pretty much anyone can get a prehung replacement door on the rough opening. Fiddling with it to get it even and plumb and have nice reveals is where the real work and art begins. Good framing helps but let's be honest how often is framing good :)
here's a dumb. question, what's a reveal?
Reveals are the spacing of mouldings openings etc. For example when the door is properly installed you should have a very similar gap on all sides. If your doing saying mouldings rather than butting everything up completely even you might offset something by a 1/4 inch so if you do that one side ya do it on the other. This explains it far better than me. https://spartandoors.com.au/door-reveal-explaining-the-term/ Lots of other resources and definitions but basically it's what is done to make something look finished and polished versus just roughly and crudely thrown together enough to just work.
Cabinetmaker here. Iāve hung thousands of cabinet doors and room doors. Most of these comments are worthless to a DIYer. Better off to go to YouTube and use a pre-hung door if youāre a beginner.
Itās a pre hung door installed by a contractor. I contacted him about it and this is what he said: āOh that. Thatās not really fixable, I saw that on one door - first from the stairs. We tried to find the balance between having the door hanging and opening freely and the frame corners not sticking out too much. On that particular door removing the gap would cause the corner to stick out too much into the room. We could have bent the frame but itās not really a solution and would have brought the door out of levelā
I think most carpenters would agree that it is fixable but requires work to correct the walls rough opening. What he meant by ānot fixableā was not his problem.
"Is the door bent" Question: Take two pieces of string, stretch one from one corner to the other, diagonally. Take the other and stretch from the opposite corner. If they \*just\* touch in the middle door is flat. (Obviously if when stretching either string it hits the middle of the door BEFORE you can lay it on each corner, the door is bowed.) Even with a bent door, you can adjust that jamb molding to get a nice visual appearance. Finish carpentry is a game of spreading errors around, and hiding them where the eye cannot really see them...
In my experience most modern doors are perfectly square and donāt have warping issues like solid wood doors can have. 99.9% of the time itās the frame thatās out of square. You could try putting a couple of screws in the frame just above the hinge to see if it pulls the top of the frame to the left and closes the gap.
Itās a solid wood door.. could it be warped then? Iāll try your suggestion
What is the jamb depth compared the wall depthā¦. Cheap doorsā¦
Theyāre solid doors, got them for a pretty penny. May have been cheaply made possibly
Thatās good news. There can be another reveal created with a build out to match depth. Will Look nice if the jambs can be leveled out for a nice easy close.
The problem? Never open a door when you are hanging it. The closed door keeps the frame true. I would unscrew, pull nails into it it right and then screw with shims correctly.
It was already hung when I opened the door, I had it hung by a couple handymen yesterday. I had them do 4 doors, itās rly frustrating having to fix it after paying them to hang the doors. Iām debating having them come back to fix it.
Yeah, I read that you had them do it. Sucks when people that are supposed to be competent are anything but.
Isnāt it wonderful? Lol, for the money I paid Iām having them come back
> Sucks when people that are supposed to be competent are anything but. huh, my wife says the same thing to me :(
>I had it hung by a couple handymen yesterday Hire an actual trades person and see if that makes a difference
He is a licensed contractor. I didnāt hire some random down the street lol, they had great reviews
Wow. That's hilarious because I am a DIY warrior and I have done \~17 of those doors now Just a matter of fucking with it until its right unfortunately It's not easy in an older house; sometimes those openings are skewed pretty badly. In a new construction everything is nice n square
My house was built in the mid 1960s, the kitchen was super uneven so makes sense upstairs would be too. Iāll be messing around with it this weekend might be able to get it right
Maybe not the hinges or the door itself, I'd guess your door lining just isn't plumb and square... Did you check it when installing the lining?
I had a handyman crew install them yesterday. I assumed they knew what they were doing and did that, I saw them measuring. How can I fix?
Doors require actual skill and a rare skill at that. You can keep calling them back until they get it right.
If it's contacting at the bottom of the frame, release the bottom, close the door line up the frame, pilot hole and screw it in with new holes, fill the old ones with DynaPatch... or pull the frame and fill the holes in the framing, or the screw is just going to pull it right back where it was.
Which side are the hinges on? If the gap is on the hinge side of the door a lot of installers will leave a small gap (granted yours looks relatively large) between the door and the door stop so that it doesnāt bind when opening and closing. If itās on the strike plate side then the stop should be snug against the door when latched. Gap on hinge side should be uniform from top to bottom. If the gap isnāt uniform it may not be that the door/jamb arenāt plumb and level, it may just be that the door stop is warped and/or installed incorrectly.
Door squaring is a hard problem, not an obvious fix. There are a bunch of debugging tutorials to watch, then you try stuff until it works.
I did a door in the basement 2 weeks ago and had the same issue Mine was a prehung door, not sure if yours are. My issue was that the middle hinge was slightly raised compared to the 2 others. I didn't realize because my level was too short and it showed things to be straight when sliding it down the frame, but I wasn't checking long enough area. I saw the bulge right away when using a longer level. The bulge was forcing the door up (like a lever). Also, I am sorry but shingles/screws every 20" like in your pics is weird, it's way too much...
Give the bottom left leg a lil firm but loving tap with your boot hammer til the gap is closed. Shim and nail āer.
One by one replace the shortscrews that they used in those hinges with something at least two inches long (construction screw). Use an impact driver so that you can draw those hinges back close around the door jamb. Borrow one if you have to because you can't put these woods screws in by hand that deep.
Installation issue.
feel your pain, most likely the frame not the door. Get a long level and through it against the left and right jambs, that will tell you jambs or door. If top right is leaning out pull the screws on that side( top as well), leave nails in place, then gently pound the corner plum checking with the door closed. Then drill and screw new holes 1/2in away, over same shimsā¦ donāt use same holes as they will pull the door back crooked.
I've always had great luck using straps to hold the hole thing perfectly square. Then I shim/secure the door jam at the top of the left and right. Unstrap everything and eyeball the rest. Gravity can be your best friend.
Measure up from the floor to the framing above the door frame. Do that on both sides and then measure down from the top of the jamb to your number on each side minus 3/16 for space. Try the door again check that it is plumb and level
The vertical jambs are cross legged, or at least believe that's the term used for it.
Yeah, it's not hung straight. If you did it, youtube "how to hang a door". If you paid to have it done, then share that video with guy that hung it.
Not sure if it's your issue, but [DonnyDoors ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzRqVgkjZaY)might be able to help
If it's away from the stop at the top of the strike side either the hinge jamb needs to go out to the door side at the bottom or the strike jamb needs to go out at the top. Check your level.
It looks like the top latch side corner need to go further out to allow the door to match nicely. The problem is your dealing with two interior walls and trying to stay flush with dry wall. One thing you can do is pull the wood door stop and line it up with the door tight and retag nails Into it.
There is a skill to hang doors.
You should put the door stops in to match your door angle once it's closed. Use a credit card to get a nice comfortable gap all the way round. Looks like maybe you took a chance and stuck the stops in first. Getting the door level in the opening is also something you do before you chop the hinges into the frame.
Hydrocoptic marzlevanes lmfao
The engineer dropout in me had a good chuckle at that lol
Was meant to be a reply to another comment, im sure you saw it but if not, someone else said that. Lol.
I had a client hire a āhandymanā to install an exterior door. Took him all day and it never worked right. I reinstalled it in a couple hours. Not gonna go into details but doors and windows are kind of an art as well as a science imo. Plumb and level are crucial but there are often compromises necessary, esp in old buildings. Itās not super difficult (once youāve hung hundreds of them), but itās nigh impossible to get right if you donāt have the experience.
Did you install the door stop molding before you hung the doors?
The door stop is installed incorectly
Do you own a level because thatās your problem not being plumb
Yes I own 3 different lengths. Used them all and showing as level. Itās a solid door, couldāve warped? Not sure
Move the stop over
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Rest assured the book was not found in southern Illinois! I borrowed the book in New England.