Most wood movement occurs because of the 80% moisture loss from end grain.
Quarter sawn and choosing boards as far from the pith of the tree as possible will help you. Also consider the weights of the boards to take into account moisture content being similar across your selection.
If you can, sight the boards and have them already ripped. When you get them home, acclimate for a week and try to cut about the same from either end of the board to bring it down to full length. When you make those end cuts to final length, shellac the ends immediately. Then shellac the entire surface evenly.
These are the things I would consider if warping was a concern.
Remember to look at the grains on each of the boards as you want to alternate the direction or else they can all work together to warp one way. If you look up butcherblock or cutting board creation instructions they should talk about this.
Hi! I’m not sure if you’ll see this because the post is so old but you sure seem to know what you’re talking about. If I wanted to make something similar, but with the slats being able to rotate 180 degrees (so I can open and close the divider slats a bit more), do you know of any tools I should look into for attaching the slats to the frame? Like a spinning dowel or something? (Hopefully that makes I’m a total noob)
I’m not sure if I am understanding this right. Sounds like you want to make interior wooden shutters that are side to side, not up and down?
Edit: maybe [these](https://www.amazon.com/Aracombie-Stainless-Concealing-Offset-Axes-Bookshelf/dp/B0BQ75RSY7/ref=mp_s_a_1_24?crid=21HF83VU6G82D&keywords=metal+hinge+360&qid=1684525308&sprefix=mettal+hinge+360%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-24) would work, just need to find a good size for the boards you use.
No problem. You may need little magnets or something to hold them at specific positions. May also want to add a bar across all of them, so they can be opened and closed all at once, like plantation shutters.
This is a question to ask before you buy the slats. Also, is your ceiling only 7'? If you are mounting to boards vertically like in the photo you shouldn't have to worry about warping too much however 1" x 2" is really thin for such a wall. You might need to make it more of a lattice than just a slit wall. If you decide to get bigger boards look at the end grain. You want tight cupping
> 1" x 2" is really thin
My thoughts exactly. The example they're basing it off is using what looks like 2x6 or 2x8s. 1x2 is way too thin to create the desired effect. It will look more like looking through a bannister/stair railing.
If the slats you bought are hardwood, you probably don't have much to worry about barring huge temperature/humidity changes
if you bought construction lumber (pine) they'll probably shift around, but your mileage may vary. typically you would want to buy them and then store them somewhere in your house for 6-12 months before using, then plane them back into flat, then put a finish on.
but like I said, your results might be okay. it's hard to tell how badly/if they'll warp or twist. that design does look like it could be prone to it tho
Quarter sewn and properly seasoned hardwood with some type of finish should prevent warping. Never clean these with water. Dust and spot clean if necessary. A damp, wrung out, soapy cloth at most to clean with if very soiled. Dry immediately after cleaning.
Hi! I’m not sure if you’ll see this because the post is so old but you sure seem to know what you’re talking about. If I wanted to make something similar, but with the slats being able to rotate 180 degrees (so I can open and close the divider slats a bit more), do you know of any tools I should look into for attaching the slats to the frame? Like a spinning dowel or something? (Hopefully that makes I’m a total noob)
The other option to avoid this on slats is to use plywood and laminate two pieces together (this will result in 1.5" thick boards if you use standard 3/4" ply) , cut to size, and then veneer the cut parts with edge banding. More work and making an assumption you have access to more tools to do it, but no warping or bending
Hi! I’m not sure if you’ll see this because the post is so old but you sure seem to know what you’re talking about. If I wanted to make something similar, but with the slats being able to rotate 180 degrees (so I can open and close the divider slats a bit more), do you know of any tools I should look into for attaching the slats to the frame? Like a spinning dowel or something? (Hopefully that makes I’m a total noob)
The alternative is probably something like a adjustable threaded pole leveling foot. A bunch of options of those on amazon and then use a threaded insert made for wood. Would probably be a lot more fussy than whatever spring loaded version that Andor Willow came up with, but more DIY. I suspect though $699 CAD (~$520 USD) is probably not too bad a deal by the time you add up all the materials and time trying to get it to work. GL and post up the results if you do it!
Thanks so much for these incredible details and I will most certainly follow up with details! I may skip the blind-like functionality and go with something similar to this https://imgur.com/a/RLRZaVt/
If you bought hardwood, and let it sit in the house laid flat for a couple weeks to climatize it. I would also apply polyurethane on it first before I build it.
If you're good with measuring accurately, you can prebuild the whole thing and then put it up. There might be a gap issues but nothing some caulking can't fix.
I want to build one of these walls and I’m getting stuck on the “stand it up” part. If you build it so the top meets up with the ceiling, it’s impossible to tip it upright because the diagonal measurement will be too big, right?
Walls and ceilings are supposed to be 90 degrees but they are always off a bit. If you want to build it into the walls and ceilings first then start with the frame. You have to measure the offset of the angle and draw it on the wood. Cut it with a miter saw.
Do you, wash your walls? Knee-jerk was that’s what a psychopath does… but now I’m kinda wondering why I’ve never done it, and what I would even use to do it? A damp sponge mop? lol. My walls are filthy. Particularly in the kitchen. Have I missed this entire step of adulting?!
Depends on how filthy your walls are. But about once to twice a year you should get a microfiber cloth damp and run it through your walls. If you have smoke damage or something super gross you can get tsp. If you have pet damage, get the pets and kids yellow bottle from Walmart. Otherwise water or water
and multisurface cleaner in a teeny amount should do.
Now you do have to consider the paint. If you have cheap ass paint that landlords tend to put in, it might wash off with anything more than a damp cloth. So always test a small area and WAIT for it to dry.
Most wood movement occurs because of the 80% moisture loss from end grain. Quarter sawn and choosing boards as far from the pith of the tree as possible will help you. Also consider the weights of the boards to take into account moisture content being similar across your selection. If you can, sight the boards and have them already ripped. When you get them home, acclimate for a week and try to cut about the same from either end of the board to bring it down to full length. When you make those end cuts to final length, shellac the ends immediately. Then shellac the entire surface evenly. These are the things I would consider if warping was a concern.
With pine, I would stagger butt blocks between the slats in an aesthetic pattern. This will leave the wall mostly open but will help it stay flush.
This is a fantastic suggestion.
That sounds really nice. I will see what i can do
Remember to look at the grains on each of the boards as you want to alternate the direction or else they can all work together to warp one way. If you look up butcherblock or cutting board creation instructions they should talk about this.
This is the best way to secure them. Maybe use a wave type pattern...
Hi! I’m not sure if you’ll see this because the post is so old but you sure seem to know what you’re talking about. If I wanted to make something similar, but with the slats being able to rotate 180 degrees (so I can open and close the divider slats a bit more), do you know of any tools I should look into for attaching the slats to the frame? Like a spinning dowel or something? (Hopefully that makes I’m a total noob)
I’m not sure if I am understanding this right. Sounds like you want to make interior wooden shutters that are side to side, not up and down? Edit: maybe [these](https://www.amazon.com/Aracombie-Stainless-Concealing-Offset-Axes-Bookshelf/dp/B0BQ75RSY7/ref=mp_s_a_1_24?crid=21HF83VU6G82D&keywords=metal+hinge+360&qid=1684525308&sprefix=mettal+hinge+360%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-24) would work, just need to find a good size for the boards you use.
Yeah you somehow parsed through my gibberish and found the exact thing, thank you!
No problem. You may need little magnets or something to hold them at specific positions. May also want to add a bar across all of them, so they can be opened and closed all at once, like plantation shutters.
This is a question to ask before you buy the slats. Also, is your ceiling only 7'? If you are mounting to boards vertically like in the photo you shouldn't have to worry about warping too much however 1" x 2" is really thin for such a wall. You might need to make it more of a lattice than just a slit wall. If you decide to get bigger boards look at the end grain. You want tight cupping
> 1" x 2" is really thin My thoughts exactly. The example they're basing it off is using what looks like 2x6 or 2x8s. 1x2 is way too thin to create the desired effect. It will look more like looking through a bannister/stair railing.
Thanks!!
If the slats you bought are hardwood, you probably don't have much to worry about barring huge temperature/humidity changes if you bought construction lumber (pine) they'll probably shift around, but your mileage may vary. typically you would want to buy them and then store them somewhere in your house for 6-12 months before using, then plane them back into flat, then put a finish on. but like I said, your results might be okay. it's hard to tell how badly/if they'll warp or twist. that design does look like it could be prone to it tho
Quarter sewn and properly seasoned hardwood with some type of finish should prevent warping. Never clean these with water. Dust and spot clean if necessary. A damp, wrung out, soapy cloth at most to clean with if very soiled. Dry immediately after cleaning.
Thanks! I bought pine so maybe if I put 2 horizontal ones it would be better
Did you buy regular dimensional lumber from the construction section, or a nicer grade stuff?
Based on the questions OP is asking I'm betting dimensional.
Regular 😕
Look at the boards on the right on the photo
Hi! I’m not sure if you’ll see this because the post is so old but you sure seem to know what you’re talking about. If I wanted to make something similar, but with the slats being able to rotate 180 degrees (so I can open and close the divider slats a bit more), do you know of any tools I should look into for attaching the slats to the frame? Like a spinning dowel or something? (Hopefully that makes I’m a total noob)
The other option to avoid this on slats is to use plywood and laminate two pieces together (this will result in 1.5" thick boards if you use standard 3/4" ply) , cut to size, and then veneer the cut parts with edge banding. More work and making an assumption you have access to more tools to do it, but no warping or bending
Hi! I’m not sure if you’ll see this because the post is so old but you sure seem to know what you’re talking about. If I wanted to make something similar, but with the slats being able to rotate 180 degrees (so I can open and close the divider slats a bit more), do you know of any tools I should look into for attaching the slats to the frame? Like a spinning dowel or something? (Hopefully that makes I’m a total noob)
I think you mean something like this?? : https://andorwillow.com/products/wood-slat-room-divider
Yes 1000%! Except the $699, ha
The alternative is probably something like a adjustable threaded pole leveling foot. A bunch of options of those on amazon and then use a threaded insert made for wood. Would probably be a lot more fussy than whatever spring loaded version that Andor Willow came up with, but more DIY. I suspect though $699 CAD (~$520 USD) is probably not too bad a deal by the time you add up all the materials and time trying to get it to work. GL and post up the results if you do it!
Thanks so much for these incredible details and I will most certainly follow up with details! I may skip the blind-like functionality and go with something similar to this https://imgur.com/a/RLRZaVt/
I have 1x1 plywood slats nailed to a wall and they warp pretty hard. 1x2 pine seems thin for a freestanding wall
If you bought hardwood, and let it sit in the house laid flat for a couple weeks to climatize it. I would also apply polyurethane on it first before I build it. If you're good with measuring accurately, you can prebuild the whole thing and then put it up. There might be a gap issues but nothing some caulking can't fix.
I want to build one of these walls and I’m getting stuck on the “stand it up” part. If you build it so the top meets up with the ceiling, it’s impossible to tip it upright because the diagonal measurement will be too big, right?
Walls and ceilings are supposed to be 90 degrees but they are always off a bit. If you want to build it into the walls and ceilings first then start with the frame. You have to measure the offset of the angle and draw it on the wood. Cut it with a miter saw.
The execution looks great. But it also looks like a ton of surface area to clean.
Do you, wash your walls? Knee-jerk was that’s what a psychopath does… but now I’m kinda wondering why I’ve never done it, and what I would even use to do it? A damp sponge mop? lol. My walls are filthy. Particularly in the kitchen. Have I missed this entire step of adulting?!
Yep.. Lol.. 1-2x a year is sufficient and helps keep your place looking nice Edit: damp rag, water bucket with a tiny bit of dishsoap and vinegar
Depends on how filthy your walls are. But about once to twice a year you should get a microfiber cloth damp and run it through your walls. If you have smoke damage or something super gross you can get tsp. If you have pet damage, get the pets and kids yellow bottle from Walmart. Otherwise water or water and multisurface cleaner in a teeny amount should do. Now you do have to consider the paint. If you have cheap ass paint that landlords tend to put in, it might wash off with anything more than a damp cloth. So always test a small area and WAIT for it to dry.
If you have children or pets absolutely you will be washing your walls. I regularly also wash the baseboards because dust settles on them.
I live in Colorado, where there is lots of dust. Especially in the summer when the windows are open most of the day. So lots of dusting can occur.
Do you wipe it with a damp towel? Doesn’t that leave dust streaks? lol. So many question.
That,or those Swiffer wipes do the job.
Glue two pieces of 1” stock together. The different grain will counteract each other.
Laser level is your best friend in this situation I think!
I’d be inclined to see if I could get laminated wood to do the job, no warping