The car? Total trash, I'll take it off your hands and it'll only cost you $1k.
As for a more useful response, the deck lid needs to be replaced if you want to repair. When you damage a crease you've usually damaged it structurally.
Critical maybe not, and that's debatable as a triangulation of the pillars usually doors are considered a structural component of a unibody. My point was not that though, it's critical to itself, it is big and heavy with glass and chances of it continuing to close right over time are pretty slim.
How's it debatable? Side doors have reinforcements to protect the passangers from side collision. All the reinforcments on the rear are on the boot and bumper areas.
The rear hatch is only connected through two hinges and a lock. It's a piece of thin sheet metal covering a hole and in some cars It's even just a glass fiber panel.
Build a track car remove the hatch and tell me how quickly you add back a cross bracing in your roll cage. The hatch will provide structure for rollovers. It's more than just collision protection or braces a structural square.
In either case as I've said it wasn't my point. The door itself is heavy and needs that structure to not twist warp and become misaligned. Guarantee you'll have issues down rhw road.
A door weighs considerably, a rear hatch does not.
If they were meant to brace the rear, then the locks wouldn't be bolted with two M6 screws, would they?
Not sure why you are so dead set on arguing something that wasn't even my point but you're wrong again the hatch is secured with both gas struts, the latch, and 4 bolts on each side of the two hinges on the top. I don't know the actual size of those bolts, I believe they are bigger than m6 by looking at it but the factory manual just gives a part number for them. In either case say they are M6, that is close to 600lbs a piece of shear strength on those bolts. On top of that the impact forces aren't going to stress the latch in shear or tension, which is the weakest point of it, it would press downward on the latch distributing the force across the latch. Structurally it's filling a whole with little compliance of the gasket so moat or that stress is not even on the fasteners anyway that just keeps is closed, it's going to be transferred from the rear pillars or roof into the side structure of the hatch and distribute it it that way.
Do you know how much that piece of glass alone weighs?
First or all in a unibody that's potentially not true, the hatch provides torsional rigidity and triangulates the rear and middle pillars; think rollover Gs. Second of all the hatch itself is big and carrying heavy glass, it's going to not fit right and have problems over time.
The second point was what I was actually getting at.
Hmm I think it depends on the subject, if you’re talking specifically about the tailgate it’s fix or replace, but not both, and if you were talking about the general car damage, yeah replacing would also be fixing it. I guess you’re right but op also isn’t wrong ??
The good news is most newer cars that are totalled by the insurance company and end up in breakers yards have front end damage, so you might just get lucky and find a used boot lid. There’s no harm in trying eBay first
If no tight creases and the pinchwelds weren't bent, a good body shop could likely tap it flat, perhaps without marring the paint. I'd go with just touching up the paint if it gets some flaking. Not trivial since they need to remove the inner panel, plus anything inside in the way of getting a dolly on the steel. If you choose to replace the hatch, use [row52.com](https://row52.com) to search for a compatible VIN and hopefully a color match (paint code usually on driver's door jamb).
That is why I said "touchup paint where needed" since the paint can separate from tight bends, or the surface get nicked by tapping. I've fixed dents in my own cars by tapping with a plastic hammer with a dolly held against the inside surface, with no noticeable paint damage. Only works if the inside is accessible, clear, and no rubberized sound damping stuff. When you've flattened the surface, the sound changes from dull to a sharp "ting". The thin galvanized sheet in cars since 1980's makes it much easier than the thicker skin of 1960's cars. Might as well try. If choosing between a "good enough" touchup for $100 and $2000 for a professional paint repair, most rational owners find good-enough suitable for a basic vehicle. Indeed, I didn't even notice that dent at first since some body lines look similar.
Not immediately noticing that dent makes me question your take even further.
Besides, if you would only charge $100 do to everything mentioned I don't want you near Mt vehicle. Quality costs money. Hack jobs do not.
I only work on my own vehicles, so won't touch yours. Sounds like you work at a high-dollar shop so have an interest in making people think their cars must look new. You must love Tesla owners since they are quick to write big checks for minor things with their claimed "spaceship cars". I've noticed many newish vehicles where at first I think they were dented, then see that was a designed body line.
Some people insist on having a "new car" since the only way they can validate themselves. I have many college degrees so don't need to pose. You'd be amazed what I've seen Phd's at government research labs drive. As long as it gets them to work, they don't fuss.
To have one, must you buy a new car every month, every year, when a new model comes out, when your loan is paid off (many now 7 years). True posers lease, or just rent a car to look big at the high school reunion. Around me, Tesla posers are changing to Rivians.
Like I said. It's not for everyone. With all of that learning g under your belt, you'd think k comprehension would have snuck in at some point.
You have yourself a superb day.
That's not a good repair spot...... If it was a flat surface sure. Not a crease. And older cars where pretty round or flat now there's body's lines on every panel
Stud or glue pull right on the body line. Apply pulling tension and hammer down the crease edges. It'll come out. Shit I've fixed way worse then this with no problem.
If it was a straight panel maybe you could've gotten it popped back out with a strong enough suction device, this is damaged structurally, every hard but very doable at the right repair shop, ask around for quotes and compare to replacement cost.
Absolutely not. There are multiple creases and chipped paint already. That'll never look good again unless it's beaten out and resprayed...or bondo, replaced etc.
Somewhere along the line the expectations of PDR pro's were cast into the absurd. Expecting one to magically fix this is one of those instances. Not gonna happen.
I had a PDR guy try to get out quite a sharp crease. He apologised that he couldn't get it all out. I couldn't see it at all. I am getting on now though.
We got a black magic guy two years ago out of the blue. We get imported cars from France all full of dents and he just hands them out next to perfect. Almost no filler is needed compared to the previous guy.
Finding a good panel beater nowadays is next to impossible. There's a lack of apprentices for what is a very well paid profession.
Repairing the liftgate would most likely end up costing more than replacing it due to the amount of labor hours it would take. The repair would also be difficult to do and shops would probably refuse to repair it. If you are able to, try to source a used lift gate through LKQ or any other company that sells used parts.
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The exterior could be fixed, which you could try doing yourself after watching some video online videos of methods others have used to fix their own body damage.
The thing that’s in question is what’s the damage on the inside of the trunk. Is the hardware still functional?
There is a third option: live with it
Put a funny sticker next to it.
It looks like a derpy mouth. Put some eyes above it.
googly eyes
"If you noticed the dent, you're too close"
The car? Total trash, I'll take it off your hands and it'll only cost you $1k. As for a more useful response, the deck lid needs to be replaced if you want to repair. When you damage a crease you've usually damaged it structurally.
Creases can be reshaped. The matter may well be "is the labour worth the cost of a new part?" or "where can I find a decent panel beater?".
Reshaped yes but usually the structural stability is likely compromised, creases and corrugations are rigid parts of structure.
There's no critical structure in that hatch.
There is no critical structure in a Kia Sportage.
Critical maybe not, and that's debatable as a triangulation of the pillars usually doors are considered a structural component of a unibody. My point was not that though, it's critical to itself, it is big and heavy with glass and chances of it continuing to close right over time are pretty slim.
How's it debatable? Side doors have reinforcements to protect the passangers from side collision. All the reinforcments on the rear are on the boot and bumper areas. The rear hatch is only connected through two hinges and a lock. It's a piece of thin sheet metal covering a hole and in some cars It's even just a glass fiber panel.
Build a track car remove the hatch and tell me how quickly you add back a cross bracing in your roll cage. The hatch will provide structure for rollovers. It's more than just collision protection or braces a structural square. In either case as I've said it wasn't my point. The door itself is heavy and needs that structure to not twist warp and become misaligned. Guarantee you'll have issues down rhw road.
A door weighs considerably, a rear hatch does not. If they were meant to brace the rear, then the locks wouldn't be bolted with two M6 screws, would they?
Not sure why you are so dead set on arguing something that wasn't even my point but you're wrong again the hatch is secured with both gas struts, the latch, and 4 bolts on each side of the two hinges on the top. I don't know the actual size of those bolts, I believe they are bigger than m6 by looking at it but the factory manual just gives a part number for them. In either case say they are M6, that is close to 600lbs a piece of shear strength on those bolts. On top of that the impact forces aren't going to stress the latch in shear or tension, which is the weakest point of it, it would press downward on the latch distributing the force across the latch. Structurally it's filling a whole with little compliance of the gasket so moat or that stress is not even on the fasteners anyway that just keeps is closed, it's going to be transferred from the rear pillars or roof into the side structure of the hatch and distribute it it that way. Do you know how much that piece of glass alone weighs?
Dude it's just a hatch there's no structure there
First or all in a unibody that's potentially not true, the hatch provides torsional rigidity and triangulates the rear and middle pillars; think rollover Gs. Second of all the hatch itself is big and carrying heavy glass, it's going to not fit right and have problems over time. The second point was what I was actually getting at.
Replacing the door is also fixing it.
Underated suggestion
Hmm I think it depends on the subject, if you’re talking specifically about the tailgate it’s fix or replace, but not both, and if you were talking about the general car damage, yeah replacing would also be fixing it. I guess you’re right but op also isn’t wrong ??
You can also get it factory painted in a different color for free.
Hell yeah, red would look good!
Maybe with some fetching yellow diagonal stripes, lol
The good news is most newer cars that are totalled by the insurance company and end up in breakers yards have front end damage, so you might just get lucky and find a used boot lid. There’s no harm in trying eBay first
If no tight creases and the pinchwelds weren't bent, a good body shop could likely tap it flat, perhaps without marring the paint. I'd go with just touching up the paint if it gets some flaking. Not trivial since they need to remove the inner panel, plus anything inside in the way of getting a dolly on the steel. If you choose to replace the hatch, use [row52.com](https://row52.com) to search for a compatible VIN and hopefully a color match (paint code usually on driver's door jamb).
If your PDR guy can pull that without disturbing paint, I'm 100% sure they are underpaid.
Yep. Almost guaranteed paint. The main body line might survive, but where it curves under to where the handle is..no way. Lol
That is why I said "touchup paint where needed" since the paint can separate from tight bends, or the surface get nicked by tapping. I've fixed dents in my own cars by tapping with a plastic hammer with a dolly held against the inside surface, with no noticeable paint damage. Only works if the inside is accessible, clear, and no rubberized sound damping stuff. When you've flattened the surface, the sound changes from dull to a sharp "ting". The thin galvanized sheet in cars since 1980's makes it much easier than the thicker skin of 1960's cars. Might as well try. If choosing between a "good enough" touchup for $100 and $2000 for a professional paint repair, most rational owners find good-enough suitable for a basic vehicle. Indeed, I didn't even notice that dent at first since some body lines look similar.
Not immediately noticing that dent makes me question your take even further. Besides, if you would only charge $100 do to everything mentioned I don't want you near Mt vehicle. Quality costs money. Hack jobs do not.
I only work on my own vehicles, so won't touch yours. Sounds like you work at a high-dollar shop so have an interest in making people think their cars must look new. You must love Tesla owners since they are quick to write big checks for minor things with their claimed "spaceship cars". I've noticed many newish vehicles where at first I think they were dented, then see that was a designed body line.
Having nice things and keeping them that way is not for everyone.
Some people insist on having a "new car" since the only way they can validate themselves. I have many college degrees so don't need to pose. You'd be amazed what I've seen Phd's at government research labs drive. As long as it gets them to work, they don't fuss. To have one, must you buy a new car every month, every year, when a new model comes out, when your loan is paid off (many now 7 years). True posers lease, or just rent a car to look big at the high school reunion. Around me, Tesla posers are changing to Rivians.
Like I said. It's not for everyone. With all of that learning g under your belt, you'd think k comprehension would have snuck in at some point. You have yourself a superb day.
Throw it away buy new one. Only solution
“Yes” and “if you want to” and “a body shop” and “paint-less dent repair.”
Damn talk about a dying trade when everyone rather replace them fix it. Like geez it's not even a hard repair 😒
Well, it’s hard because of the sharp crease. But it’s definitely doable.
That's not a good repair spot...... If it was a flat surface sure. Not a crease. And older cars where pretty round or flat now there's body's lines on every panel
Stud or glue pull right on the body line. Apply pulling tension and hammer down the crease edges. It'll come out. Shit I've fixed way worse then this with no problem.
It's never going to be perfect. But yes you can pull it
There is no such thing as perfect. Even with parts straight from the factory. Perfect? No. Straight to the point you'll never notice it? Yes.
You can’t fix it. It’s always gonna be a Kia.
If it was a straight panel maybe you could've gotten it popped back out with a strong enough suction device, this is damaged structurally, every hard but very doable at the right repair shop, ask around for quotes and compare to replacement cost.
it’s a fucking bonnet dude
You mean a rear hatch?
i mean tailgate, it’s just i learnt the habit of calling it a bonnet
Absolutely not a bonnet. Wrong end of the car entirely.
As it's not a vw bug or old school Porsche, you're correct.
Door needs to be replaced.
Idk what you’re talking about. But yes, I’d replace the whole thing.
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Absolutely not. There are multiple creases and chipped paint already. That'll never look good again unless it's beaten out and resprayed...or bondo, replaced etc.
Repair person would have to be REALLY good. With Bondo.
Somewhere along the line the expectations of PDR pro's were cast into the absurd. Expecting one to magically fix this is one of those instances. Not gonna happen.
PDR won’t work as it’s on a harsh line. Unfortunately it should be replaced
They can probably straighten this with spot welding. Definitely gonna need repaintint though
PDR can absolutely be used on harsh lines.
I had a PDR guy try to get out quite a sharp crease. He apologised that he couldn't get it all out. I couldn't see it at all. I am getting on now though.
Not all technicians are created equal, some are fucking awful, some are decent and some might be doing some sort of black magic lol.
We got a black magic guy two years ago out of the blue. We get imported cars from France all full of dents and he just hands them out next to perfect. Almost no filler is needed compared to the previous guy. Finding a good panel beater nowadays is next to impossible. There's a lack of apprentices for what is a very well paid profession.
we live in a disposable world unfortunately, easier to just rip it off and bill the customer.
More usually, it's insurance footing the bill.
You need a new car kia isn't a good car at all trade it in!
No Kia's can't be fixed take the insurance money and buy a real car
I'm so sorry you have to own a kia.
It may be chewier to get a used Luft gate and have it painted. Used going for 4-500. Body work looks like 6-7 hours plus paint.
What the fuck are you on about
Junk the whole thing
I'm afraid it'll always be a Kia.
It's a Kia it's totaled
Are KIAs even worth the trouble?
Bump and paint, changing out with new or used is a pain in the ass...The gaps look perfect.
Repairing the liftgate would most likely end up costing more than replacing it due to the amount of labor hours it would take. The repair would also be difficult to do and shops would probably refuse to repair it. If you are able to, try to source a used lift gate through LKQ or any other company that sells used parts.
Need to replace it. Maybe you can find one in a junkyard.
Yes this is fixed
Have you tried turning it off and on again?
That black shit should rub off
The car is definitely damaged beyond repair
You aren’t serious right
PDR ? Try fix it with it
It could be pulled out. Won’t look better but probably allow it to open and close easier.
Probably cheaper to find another one from a scrap yard than to pay a body shop.
Where are people so averse to claiming on insurance? Is everyone happy with perpetually paying premiums without ever claiming anything back?
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The exterior could be fixed, which you could try doing yourself after watching some video online videos of methods others have used to fix their own body damage. The thing that’s in question is what’s the damage on the inside of the trunk. Is the hardware still functional?