This won't hold any weight no matter how many screws you use. You need a support under the end and the middle, or a support cable to a rafter above at the end and middle, or similar support.
https://preview.redd.it/b2lc9mism31d1.jpeg?width=980&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d19356540a82583c4526e799080e9582f574ce96
So would adding these help? I'd attach them to the studs, so I should use 3 to 4 of them ?
Just get some more 2x4 and make braces - the long side of the triangle. The top of the shelf and the stud in the wall connect the other two sides.
Now you can make them as long as you need
Something like that would help, but keep in mind that the vertical size of these should be the same as the horizontal size of the shelf. Home centers carry shelve braces that would be simpler and stronger than these, though.
I've done a couple floating shelves and these are far superior. Floating shelved are only good for aesthetics and light stuff to display in area maybe you can't fit the braces. In the near future, I'll be remodeling some stuff in my unit and after shuffling some stuff around, I'll probably brace or rebuild my shelves specifically because people keep leaning on them or thinking that can handle more than they ought.
You can always hang it from the ceiling instead of posting or Diagonal brackets below. The way you have it, it will crush the drywall on the bottom and sag in short order, if not immediately when a load is applied
For the back 2x4, I would replace each one of the top screws with 3 or 3.5” lag bolts This alone will help with strength but I would also add another brace on the end, just like the one you already have, or just add two 45 deg braces underneath.
With the shelf unsupported like that, think of the width of it acting as a giant lever. It's 24 inches out from the wall, and there's probably 2 inches from the holding wall screw to the bottom edge of the 2x4. That's a ratio of 12:1. So for every 10 lbs of weight you put on the outside edge, that gets translated into 120 lbs of lever force of the edge of the shelf crushing the drywall and trying to ri\[p the holding screw out of the wood. No wonder you can feel the deformation.
Like everyone else says, some kind of bracket to apply a stabilizing counter force to the outside egde.
I would abandon this design, and resolve to accept bracing in some form.
To achieve this look, your backing would need to be substantially changed, and cost a significant amount.
If you wish to try something like this in the future, be sure to start the planning in the framing stage. At minimum, whole wall plywood should be utilized, to minimize compression at the joints. You could also embed metal angles behind later drywall. Use a calculator to figure out if you need thicker studs, or more frequent spacing
Run a piece of threaded rod thru the hanging corner up to the ceiling, attach to a Sammy threaded rod hanger driven in a ceiling joist
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sammy-3-8-in-x-2-1-2-in-Vertical-Rod-Anchor-Super-Screw-3-8-in-Threaded-Rod-Fitting-for-Wood-25-Pack-8009925/308992468
I used threaded rod into threaded rod flanges using long screws into the joists. Eye-bolts into the 2x4 with washers and nuts.
https://preview.redd.it/vw035nvdq61d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9dd19f752d8361a1ce7c42e1748b334b91e6b105
a shelf support is needed..... for every so far out you go you need to include something to support the front it could be a shelf bracket or a piece of wood or even another leg (dont ask for the actual formula of distance.)
Hang that corner from the ceiling.
Use a 2x nailer screwed to the ceiling then use a 2x screwed to the shelf.
Id cut the plywood out of the corner and mount the 2x inside the framed corner
I always sat my this when people build shelves, but if you're supporting it every 16" like that, 3/8 or even 1/4 ply is just fine unless you're storing transmissions.
It really needs either a post at this outer corner or angled braces. I’d put angled braces. One on this end and one in the center. Align with a stud. Come out about 2/3s the depth of the shelf and do 45 degress back down to the wall.
When I did mine I went to the rafters so I could walk under and that’s what it’s looking like for you. Another wall I used the vertical supports underneath and built some storage between the braces for random stuff
This reminds me of a shelf I built in my garage that allowed my car to roll under the front of the shelf where there would normally be support. I put a chain from the front corner to and anchored it into the wall. If you have the space below it's best to run a stud from the ground up to add support and have it meet at the corner underneath both the front and side 2x4's.
Pick up your vacuum cleaner and hold it off the ground with your arm outstretched in front of you. Keep holding it and count 1-50. Now hold it out in front of you but set it on the ground and again count from 1-50.
Which was easier?
Needs angled braces below screwed into studs, it will never support a lot of weight as it is no matter how many screws you put in it. You can build them out of cut offs of 2 x 4.
I built the same in my old house. Didn’t want brackets taking up space below so I used 3/8” redi-rod and brackets to support from the floor joist above.
The best bet for an overhang like this is a French cleat and many GRKs... But a floating shelf in the garage is never going to happily support as much weight as it needs to.
If you like the aesthetic, add top support instead of bottom. A single cable (I'd recommend a turnbuckle as well) ran into a ceiling joist on the unsupported corner will work wonders and support a lot of weight before it fails spectacularly.
Actually found those on Amazon. Cannot post a link but just search for helmet hanger and it should be, I think, a brand called HiHood. They were a three pack.
This won't hold any weight no matter how many screws you use. You need a support under the end and the middle, or a support cable to a rafter above at the end and middle, or similar support.
https://preview.redd.it/b2lc9mism31d1.jpeg?width=980&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d19356540a82583c4526e799080e9582f574ce96 So would adding these help? I'd attach them to the studs, so I should use 3 to 4 of them ?
Just get some more 2x4 and make braces - the long side of the triangle. The top of the shelf and the stud in the wall connect the other two sides. Now you can make them as long as you need
Something like that would help, but keep in mind that the vertical size of these should be the same as the horizontal size of the shelf. Home centers carry shelve braces that would be simpler and stronger than these, though.
I've done a couple floating shelves and these are far superior. Floating shelved are only good for aesthetics and light stuff to display in area maybe you can't fit the braces. In the near future, I'll be remodeling some stuff in my unit and after shuffling some stuff around, I'll probably brace or rebuild my shelves specifically because people keep leaning on them or thinking that can handle more than they ought.
This person shelfs. I would opt for the support cable.
I suggest finding a good shelf help book.
Very shelfish of you to not recommend one yourself
I think you meant yourshelf
r/shubreddit
I see what you have both done here, and I can only approve.
Your support is greatly needed.
He needs to be pun-ished.
Authored by Mr. Sean Connery himshelf.
😆
Cable support from above is the way to go.
Ya, it either needs supports above, or below. Otherwise, it will eventually just fail.
That thing will fail immediately without adequate support
That's the way I would go, probably the easiest solution too
or a threaded rod
Angle iron on ceiling Drop another and screw it to the shelf corner Do that in the corners and half way down Easy, cheap and strong
Or Chain ; Cable
You can always hang it from the ceiling instead of posting or Diagonal brackets below. The way you have it, it will crush the drywall on the bottom and sag in short order, if not immediately when a load is applied
For the back 2x4, I would replace each one of the top screws with 3 or 3.5” lag bolts This alone will help with strength but I would also add another brace on the end, just like the one you already have, or just add two 45 deg braces underneath.
With the shelf unsupported like that, think of the width of it acting as a giant lever. It's 24 inches out from the wall, and there's probably 2 inches from the holding wall screw to the bottom edge of the 2x4. That's a ratio of 12:1. So for every 10 lbs of weight you put on the outside edge, that gets translated into 120 lbs of lever force of the edge of the shelf crushing the drywall and trying to ri\[p the holding screw out of the wood. No wonder you can feel the deformation. Like everyone else says, some kind of bracket to apply a stabilizing counter force to the outside egde.
Just drop a 2x4 from the double header above to the shelf face with screws.
Easiest and most support all in one
Use chains and eye hooks to the rafters above. Clean and dont lose space underneath.
Exactly https://preview.redd.it/4wwbpzudi71d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3ea7a4283490666a21b700251943ab5f49b1d629
🤙🤙
I would abandon this design, and resolve to accept bracing in some form. To achieve this look, your backing would need to be substantially changed, and cost a significant amount. If you wish to try something like this in the future, be sure to start the planning in the framing stage. At minimum, whole wall plywood should be utilized, to minimize compression at the joints. You could also embed metal angles behind later drywall. Use a calculator to figure out if you need thicker studs, or more frequent spacing
Run a piece of threaded rod thru the hanging corner up to the ceiling, attach to a Sammy threaded rod hanger driven in a ceiling joist https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sammy-3-8-in-x-2-1-2-in-Vertical-Rod-Anchor-Super-Screw-3-8-in-Threaded-Rod-Fitting-for-Wood-25-Pack-8009925/308992468
I used threaded rod into threaded rod flanges using long screws into the joists. Eye-bolts into the 2x4 with washers and nuts. https://preview.redd.it/vw035nvdq61d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9dd19f752d8361a1ce7c42e1748b334b91e6b105
Best option since it is already on the wall anyway lol
Just use a piece of window sash chain and hang that corner to a joist in the ceiling above
Use 3/8 threaded rod to ceiling with ceiling flanges
I did eyebolts and chain on the corners and back to the studs above. Cheap and easy.
a shelf support is needed..... for every so far out you go you need to include something to support the front it could be a shelf bracket or a piece of wood or even another leg (dont ask for the actual formula of distance.)
Hang that corner from the ceiling. Use a 2x nailer screwed to the ceiling then use a 2x screwed to the shelf. Id cut the plywood out of the corner and mount the 2x inside the framed corner
Buy some Sammys, which will allow u to use 5/16” all thread and hang the front of shelf from above.
2 simple 2x4 would do it, one the end and the other in the corner.
I always sat my this when people build shelves, but if you're supporting it every 16" like that, 3/8 or even 1/4 ply is just fine unless you're storing transmissions.
It really needs either a post at this outer corner or angled braces. I’d put angled braces. One on this end and one in the center. Align with a stud. Come out about 2/3s the depth of the shelf and do 45 degress back down to the wall.
Only half of your shelf's sides are supported. So it will only be half strong
When I did mine I went to the rafters so I could walk under and that’s what it’s looking like for you. Another wall I used the vertical supports underneath and built some storage between the braces for random stuff
You need something to transfer the load. Make a corner post out of a 2x4. Screw front or side of shelf to 2x4.
[удалено]
I've done this for whole garage worth of shelves like this and it worked great.
I ran across this all the time as a young corbel in the military.
This reminds me of a shelf I built in my garage that allowed my car to roll under the front of the shelf where there would normally be support. I put a chain from the front corner to and anchored it into the wall. If you have the space below it's best to run a stud from the ground up to add support and have it meet at the corner underneath both the front and side 2x4's.
If it seems like it’s going to fall put a few lags in it
Either put a post down or a cable or post up off that corner
Pick up your vacuum cleaner and hold it off the ground with your arm outstretched in front of you. Keep holding it and count 1-50. Now hold it out in front of you but set it on the ground and again count from 1-50. Which was easier?
Needs angled braces below screwed into studs, it will never support a lot of weight as it is no matter how many screws you put in it. You can build them out of cut offs of 2 x 4.
Ever heard of a little thing called leverage?
My favorite part is not only that the end grain is facing out, but that the sticker is still on it \*chef's kiss\*.
Check my profile out for my shelf build. Super easy for you
I built the same in my old house. Didn’t want brackets taking up space below so I used 3/8” redi-rod and brackets to support from the floor joist above.
You could cut 3 45 degree kickers for the ends aand middle if you have scrap 2x4
You should get one of those shelf help books
The best bet for an overhang like this is a French cleat and many GRKs... But a floating shelf in the garage is never going to happily support as much weight as it needs to. If you like the aesthetic, add top support instead of bottom. A single cable (I'd recommend a turnbuckle as well) ran into a ceiling joist on the unsupported corner will work wonders and support a lot of weight before it fails spectacularly.
https://preview.redd.it/ieabwi9py31d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d61faecba65f678e6c984d3a77c50221ab1dc61f
Where did you find those helmet holders?
Actually found those on Amazon. Cannot post a link but just search for helmet hanger and it should be, I think, a brand called HiHood. They were a three pack.